1952 GL update thread

[petevw]

Time for an update............

last update:
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8853

The '52 project is slowly coming together. Whatever should be a quick job turns into something way longer. I either make something different, modify a existing part, or wait for parts to arrive. The following pics are from my phone. Some are better than others. Most are taken in my garage in the middle of the night. It's not out of place for me to be wrenching at till 4am. Actually i prefer it, as the music on the radio(100.7fm) after midnight keeps me motivated.

Will post updates over the next few days.

Pete

[petevw]

Here we go:

Test fitted the 2332 EFI turbo longblock. Had issues with the ARPM case not mating up to the Autocraft trans. Thought it was the trans input shaft bottoming out on the flanged crank. Tossed on my empty case from the blown 2332, it fit with no issues. Tried another trans with the ARPM case, no problem. Seems like the ARPM case and Autocraft trans are of the same size. So need to chamfer both.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00772.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00776.jpg~original

Bolted up the turbo header and the #4 exhaust pipe was hitting the body. Header is custom. Stainless under the apron for a T04 turbo. When it arrived, it was missing the #3-Jpipe. So had to wait for it to show. Will need to cut the flanges off the pipe, cut down the header, and reweld. You can see how far off it is bottom left of the pic.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00774.jpg~original

To give you an idea on timeline. I sent my turbo, and wastegate to California on March 12 '08. Finally header got done and i was to pick it up when in Vegas for the Bugoramma(Oct '08). Header box, with turbo didn't fit in rental car. ;) Parcel sent to Buffalo. Picked up from Buffalo. Missing pipe finally made it to my house in Jan 23 '09. Now i need to modify it cause it doesn't fit. :mad:

So since the turbo motor was taking forever, concentrated on getting the 2275 together. The A1 sidewinder exhaust didn't fit well. The #1Jpipe was quite a bit off and had to muscle it on. It was missing #1pipe) from the original shipment, and was sent afterwards. The rest of the header isn't sitting properly and leaking when bolted up. So need to cut that #1 flange off, reweld in the proper position to relieve the pressure, and get it ceramic coated again. Dammit....

Smoked a Pertronix in the dizzy when trying to fire it up. Bad new coil. Borrowed a 009/coil from Greg(TunedPerfection). Looking at a Mallory dizzy now.

The engine fired up really nice in my driveway. Should have good power, as the ATV lift left some divets in my driveway. :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00977.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01003.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01000.jpg~original

Both headers interfere with the kafer brace drop bars to the frame horns. I had to remove them. They were setup for use with a Type4 motor. I will have to modify and reposition them later when the engine and driveshafts are in. Time to tear down the 2275, and install in the split. The DTM shroud will be cut above the valve covers. This will make them removable for the install in the narrow engine bay.

Here is the oil cooler mentioned in the other thread that has been flipped around to have the fittings face the front. When facing the rear, the fittings were too close to the beam and steering box. Aluminum angle was used to get it mounted to the beam/pan bolts.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01021.jpg~original

Trying to come to a decision if i should pull the hose out and do all the oil/gas plumbing in AN fittings and stainless braided hose. Need to decide this week.

Pete

[chug_A_bug]

Nice Work Buddy,
let me know about the AN fittings too and I Still get 10% off what I gave you...
can't wait to See more :D

Chris.

[Jim]

So long Pete...i'ts nice to see again this veeeery long and beautiful project back in to the seen!

Keep us updated and post more pics!

Jim

[Alex]

I would keep the hose Pete.
Stainless will rub and scratch the inner paint of the tunnel which was flooded with POR 15 btw.

You do not really see the hose either. If you must have stainless braided hoses do it in the engine compartment with AN connectors.

Just my opinion. In the NSU I will use stainless pipe thru the tunnel. The good thing about the NSU is that it has 3 access panels from the bottom of the tunnel so I can properly secure the pipes.

Alex

[NO_H2O]

As far as the oil plumbing goes. I would bend up a pair of 1/2" ridged stainless lines (heavy gauge) to run from front to rear and use shorter lengths of hose at either end. The pressure flux and cooling will be better with a ridged line
Here is a pic of 3/8 lines for fuel but it is the same idea.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb225/NO_H2O/Picture191.jpg~original
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb225/NO_H2O/Picture204.jpg~original

[petevw]

Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete

[yetibone]

Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete

I secured my oil lines with a rectangular shaped washer from one of the pan bolts. Drilled a hole thru the tunnel, and sent a bolt thru the washer to hold the lines up against the side of the tunnel.

I can't post a pic of it for some reason...:confused:

[Humble]

Man what is it with you and J-tubes? Sweet project though, got any updated shots of the rest of the car? I'm really diggin' the atv stand for the motor and tranny, have you tried using it to get the drive train in and out of the car? Stainless or aluminum hard line is the way to go for fuel and oil to the front of the car. The easiest way to secure it is to use adel rubber insulated clamps which can be found in hardware stores or aircraft supply shops.

[petevw]

Hey Humble, i haven't used the stand for an install. My friend did a couple weeks ago for his '61. He said it was a real pain, and won't do it again. The motor was to secure. He couldn't move it around easily to get it lined up with the trans. I find with a regular pump jack, you can manhandle the longblock wherever you want.

Took a look inside the tunnel. 2 fuel, and 2 oil lines will be very tight around the nosecone of the 5spd. I'll grab a few small pipes tommorrow and see how/where they can fit in there.

Pete

[petevw]

Main wiring harness is now installed. There is only 1 guy that makes these pre-52 harnesses in his garage. He starts making them only when he gets a few orders. Harness is PVC wire, soldered, and cloth braided. Same as OEM. About 2yrs in the making, that was installed in January '09.

Pulled nylon twine throughout body to use as pullcords.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00752.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/52split/DSC00769.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00801.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00805.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00807.jpg~original

I included some tricks of my own. Ceramic resistors to drop to 6V for the semaphores, that were found after looking in a few electronic junkyards around town. Rear tailights are dual circuit for running and brake lights. Need to terminate the rear lights, and headlights when installed.

Pete

[NO_H2O]

Took a look inside the tunnel. 2 fuel, and 2 oil lines will be very tight around the nosecone of the 5spd. I'll grab a few small pipes tommorrow and see how/where they can fit in there.

Pete

If you have some line bending skills, you can bend the lines to tuck up in the body mounting bolt channel to run from front to rear and clamp them securly using some tabs at each body mount bolts. The pic I posted above was of a 912 that does not have the channel. I ran mine (fuel line) in the right channel so it would be protected. I will have to do 2 oil lines (1/2 inch) on the left side of mine when the oil cooler goes in the front bumper/spoiler. The heavy stainless is hell to flare for AN fittings. I bent everything then took it to a hydraulic shop to have them flared.

[Humble]

Pete, I was thinking of using the atv stand to remove the engine and tranny as an assembly rather than one at a time. It could make life simpler when I need to pull them out of the race car for re-work.

[petevw]

I'm sure you could.

You've made the rear apron removable, so it should slide right out as one assembly.

[petevw]

Didn't want to modify the dash for gauges. Bought a multifunction gauge to mount at the steering column with a Motometer holder. The gauge holder broke when i put the gauge in. :mad: So made a aluminum ring and bolted it to the Motometer center section. Need to polish it up now.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01025.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01038.jpg~original

gauge:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/11-06442.jpg~original

"The E-3 can measure up to 4 EGT/CHT channels, a RPM input, a universal temperature sender input and a universal pressure sender input with a user programmable low/high alarm limits."

Need to wire up the motor and run a multiconductor cable to the steering column.

Pete

[petevw]

Got a set of BBS LM's out of Miami, last year. Found out they wouldn't fit without some thinking. The Remmelle hardware was hitting the inside of the wheel, so the wheel couldn't be bolted up. I was determined to make it work. Decided to try and make my own setup to allow clearance for the deep(ET65) rim/tire. I'm just finishing them up now, almost a year after starting them.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01064.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01067.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01068.jpg~original

Should i narrow up that springplate some more?
Need to do get them welded and coated. Thinking silver anodize/powdercoat. Local shops?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01081.jpg~original

Sooooo the 18x10 LM's will now fit. It's a very tight squeeze that will need some grinding of that 1 bolt.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01076.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00275.jpg~original

Will the sidewinder exhaust fit on the inside of that tire? Who knows...... We'll see.........

I can't get the front wheels on. The LM's have a slightly smaller lug hole than the Dyno's. The Dyno's have always been a bitch to pull on/off. The studs look a little off. Could be bent? or not seated properly. Guess i will have to pull off the front brakes, AGAIN, and get new studs. Or drill the LM holes the same size as the Dyno's. Pic below has the wheel just barely on the studs. Couldn't push it on.:(

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00133.jpg~original

Lanner from Vdub Engineering fixed the front hubs to get the spindle nut sitting flush. This is how they were. Didn't like that at all.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00325.jpg~original

Pete

[Wally]

I can't get the front wheels on. .... or not seated properly.

Pete

I think the latter one: if its only a tiny bit out of perpendicular (sp?), it will not fit. If the machined faces of the studs are flat and perpendicular to the mounting surface of the center of the wheel mating area, you have this same problem.
The 'whacking' to drive the studs all the way to properly seat and be perfectly perpendicular is is scaringly great (ask me how I know...), so I can imagine this could be the (simple) cause.

[evilC]

..................
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00275.jpg~original............

Pete

Pete,

That bottom coilover bolt looks a tad long. There will be a substantial bending moment on the end of it particularly as you are exclusively using the coilover rather than torsion bars. Is there a clearance problem with the damper body on the alloy arm?

Clive

[CLKWRK]

Pete your car is looking nice!
I like what you did with the oil cooler, are you going to go dry sump?

[Sandeep]

The project looks awesome Pete ! I can't wait to see you driving that beast.

Sandeep

[chug_A_bug]

Nice Work Buddy...
can't wait to See it out THIS summer ;)

Chris.

[petevw]

I think the latter one: if its only a tiny bit out of perpendicular (sp?), it will not fit. If the machined faces of the studs are flat and perpendicular to the mounting surface of the center of the wheel mating area, you have this same problem.
The 'whacking' to drive the studs all the way to properly seat and be perfectly perpendicular is is scaringly great (ask me how I know...), so I can imagine this could be the (simple) cause.

We'll see how she looks when i pull it apart this weekend. Put a steel nut on the stud, tapped it with a hammer, and it didn't move. Hopefully they are aren't bent. I'll get it in a arbor press next week, to make sure they are bottomed out *fingerscrossed*.

Pete,

That bottom coilover bolt looks a tad long. There will be a substantial bending moment on the end of it particularly as you are exclusively using the coilover rather than torsion bars. Is there a clearance problem with the damper body on the alloy arm?

Clive

The coilover spring was binding on the AL arm, and the bolt without spacers was pinching the bottom spherical bearing not allowing it to move. So i spaced it out. Probably too much. :o When i get some weight in it, the uniball mounted and aligned, i'll have a better idea where the damper will sit. I'll then machine the spacers to get that bolt in further.

I like what you did with the oil cooler, are you going to go dry sump?

Not yet. The carb'd 2275 going in will be full flowed. The 2332T will be drysumped.

Nice Work Buddy...
can't wait to See it out THIS summer ;)

Chris.

That's the plan. Friday's have become "work on the split day". I'm down to a 4-day work week.


Thanks for the comments guys! Appreciate it.


Pete

[petevw]

Looking at this pic, what are the 4 holes all about on the springplate?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01067.jpg~original

The 2 round ones on the left have regular bolts to bolt to the arm. The far right hole has what looks to be a camber bolt with a huge hex head on the inside. Does the middle hole stay empty? Does it need another bolt? I can't recall if i have this "camber bolt" on the drivers side. I'll have to look again. Is the Camber bolt used for setup, and them removed after cranking down the other 3.

Am i way off here?

Pete

[Humble]

I love seeing fat steamroller tires on a bug, it's just awesome. I don't know why but one of my favorite parts on your car is the CF crotch cooler doors. How much wider are the rear fenders? Keep up the good work and keep the progress pics coming :D

[petevw]

If i remember correctly, the fenders are 1.5inch wider.

The crotch coolers are just a carbon plate at the moment. I plan to make them functional flaps in the future. I have the grills and springs for them, just need to make the hinges and grill support. I like them too......

[volkdent]

Looking REALLY nice, love the wheels.

Jason

[petevw]

The MSS carbon door panels didn't fit well, as they are a little undersized. Bought a set from CarbonJoe and they were worse for the ribbed doors. The CarbonJoe set fit the later doors well, so sold them to Chris(Chug-a-bug). So had to figure how to make these MSS's work. Mounting: The velcro kept on peeling off when it is hot, so figured stick it on with some silicone. Silicone would be a bitch to pull off if needed. Since the panels are undersized and show the original mounting holes on the door, i had to do something different.

Talked to Lanner at our local meeting. He said, make up some hardware to retain them. So this is what i came up with. Prototype below was made from a piece of Mycarta. Looked like it would work, so made them out of aluminum. Will have to trim the carbon down to fit properly within the hardware.

Went to Brafasco, Fabory, Metrican, and Fastenal trying to find something i could use to bolt up the door's blind holes. The couldn't think of anything. Grabbed a huge catalogue from Fastenal and found Rivet nuts. Tried them in one hole last week, didn't like them. Ordered Jam Nuts on Monday, and got them today. The outer diameter(wasn't specified) and ended up too big for the holes in the door. I'm not going to drill them bigger. Screwed around with a J-Clip and i think this will work. Need to grab some liquid rubber to cover them so they don't damage the door/paint on the inside.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01053.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01085.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01087.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01089.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01140.jpg~original

Mocked up:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01142.jpg~original

You can see above, if the mounting hardware wasn't there, the door's holes would be left exposed. The panels now need to be trimmed to fit the corner radius's and edges.

What do you guys think i should do with the plates? Wouldn't leaving them silver/polished be too much around the door?

I was thinking of anodizing them black with a polished or chromed fastner. Any ideas?

Pete

[NO_H2O]

Sux that the panels don't fit the early car doors. I like the idea of the clips. Black anodizing would be a good finish for the aluminum clips with the stainless botton head fastener would be my pick. What if black rubber "U" trim was used around the edge? http://http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-u-channels/=1sq1hs

[Xellex]

everything on your bug looks amazing! I could stare at your pics for hours...
Maybe you could anodise the clips a dark grey colour, to go with both the carbon fiber and the paint :)

[Humble]

Pete, I just saw your spring plate question and since I'm working on mine I'll fill you in. The 2 left holes are for bolts to tie the spring place and trailing arm together. The center hole is for the factory porsche camber/toe adjustment tool and stays open. The right hole is for a third securing bolt or the eccentric adjuster and drop link mount for the rear sway bar.

As for the trim and panel mounts, brilliant idea. For the finish though it depends on the rest of the interior. If there are going to be polished bits here and there, polish the retainers and like wise if there's brushed aluminum. But you don't want them to be polished if there's only one or two trim pieces in the interior that are polished. I'd say go with the black anodizing but keep the hardware in silver stainless.

[chug_A_bug]

nice job...
I'd say go with the black anodizing but keep the hardware in silver stainless.

[Bug@5speed(US)]

Pete,

Wow, very nice ride.... I especially like the LM's beautiful.

Any thoughts on making a run of our style uniball setup? Food for thought.

Can't wait to see the finished product.
VR
Alex

[petevw]

By unanimous decision i'll be anodizing the plates black. :lmao:

I have stainless button heads, and have ordered some polished/chromed button head fastners too. The stainless button heads i have look dull. Should have it all together by the end of the week. We'll see how she looks.

Dave, i like the rubber u-channel idea for around the panel. I'll see if i can find some locally.

Post pics of your uniball setup Alex. Don't think we've seen them.

Pete

[Bug@5speed(US)]

Pete,

I was typing too fast, OUR should have been YOUR..

I only have the GWD, spring plates, on 944 alum arms.

My mistake.. truely sorry for confusion
Alex

[petevw]

Headlights: Made some adapter plates to get the FX45 projectors in the H4 hole. Tons of trial and error, that lead to this:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/HID_template016.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/HID_template011.jpg~original

The Carbon backing plates, bezels, and adapter rings are done for the projectors. Adapter rings for the bezel to projector i made out of UHMW. The Bezels were ground down to sit flush with the backing plate. I need to fit/trim the thin carbon sheet i have for the inner headlight housing(where the turn signal light goes).

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC00861.jpg~original

Have the Slim ballasts and modified D2S bulbs so everything can fit in the bucket. When mocking it up, found the fender buckets have been smoothed out. Went over to my friends house to check out his '61 rag headlights. Ahh......the fenders need mounting tabs! Bent up some thick shim stock and was starting to get it radius'd and figured it would be too much time/work. So do we cut them out a set of other fenders? Couldn't find a decent early pair as donors, so ordered a pair of replacement buckets. Should be here in a couple weeks.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/52split/98e5.jpg~original

I had bought speedster headlight grills, figuring it would fit over the glass as i've seen pics of this done before. It doesn't. I may grind the flange down to try and make it work, doubt it will. Went to a stained glass workshop to enquire about grinding down the lens to fit inside the grill. The glass shop foreman gave me the "go-away" price of $250 a lens.
Got in touch with a guy in Norway that has done this. He spaced out the lens into the fender from the headlight ring, using a fan belt as a spacer. I don't have room to do that. The projector is so close to the rear of the fender bucket, that i had to get custom ended D2S HID bulbs from a Taiwanese manufacturer to get it all to fit.

What should i use for a lens? Early VW fluted, VW clear, 911 glass?
I've also seen yellow 911 lenses from France. Pretty cool.....

Pete

[Wally]

Pete,

Don't forget that you (big) wheels need room inside the fender as well. They may touch anything that protrudes too much out of the headlight bucket..?

Personally I like 911 lights/glass in an early style fender ;)

Walter

[chug_A_bug]

nice work with the CF...
I love the way the yellow looks on the 911's go that way it's something really
Different :)

Chris.

[Xellex]

I guess those projectors are going to be used with xenon (HID) bulbs, so as far as I know the only recommended lens is the "clearglass" one.

[NO_H2O]

911 glass.

[petevw]

I guess those projectors are going to be used with xenon (HID) bulbs, so as far as I know the only recommended lens is the "clearglass" one.

The projector will be very close to the lens. So the fluted lens should not affect the light beam.

Using the fluted, will make my details hard to see.

911 headlight glass looks like this:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/309536.jpg

OEM yellow French lenses:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/2644668.jpg

[petevw]

The trans issues with the super, took me away from the split for a couple weeks. That's all sorted, so back to the '52. :D

Got the "clips" back from the anodize shop. Did them satin black with chrome fastners. Picked them up before work on Thursday, and assembled them afterwards getting both doors done. Here's the 4am, sleepy, blurry phone pic:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01306.jpg~original

Pete

[NO_H2O]

That came out looking very nice.
Is that 5 bar treadplate you have on the floor? I have been looking for a sorce for some 5 bar. Need to make some interior door panels and other stuff for my wifes Pinzgauer.

[Humble]

Wow, those came out beautifully, a very nice touch

[volkdent]

How did you end up choosing FX45 projectors? Are they Bi-Xenon? I'm asking as I will soon have one of the Bi-Xenons of my recently damaged 335 and I'm wondering if there is a size difference that makes the FX45 projector a better choice.

Jason

[Steve C]

Hi

Pelican parts sell clear Porsche headlight cover. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-PP901187&catalog_description=H%34%2FH%31%20Airplex%20Headli ght%20Covers%2C%20pair

I'm not sure how optically clean they would be.

Steve

[petevw]

That came out looking very nice.
Is that 5 bar treadplate you have on the floor? I have been looking for a sorce for some 5 bar. Need to make some interior door panels and other stuff for my wifes Pinzgauer.

I don't know if its 5bar. I'll have to look again. Alex had got it.


How did you end up choosing FX45 projectors? Are they Bi-Xenon? I'm asking as I will soon have one of the Bi-Xenons of my recently damaged 335 and I'm wondering if there is a size difference that makes the FX45 projector a better choice.

Jason

These FX's have been in the mix since 2002ish. At that time they were the only small bi-xenon out there. Not many to chose from back then.

Matt at: http://store.theretrofitsource.com/index.php has helped me out with some items.

Hi

Pelican parts sell clear Porsche headlight cover. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-PP901187&catalog_description=H%34%2FH%31%20Airplex%20Headli ght%20Covers%2C%20pair

I'm not sure how optically clean they would be.

Steve

Pretty cool. Thanks for the link.



What are your opinions of the yellow 911 lenses above?

Pete

[petevw]

When mocking it up, found the fender buckets have been smoothed out. Ahh......the fenders need mounting tabs! Bent up some thick shim stock and was starting to get it radius'd and figured it would be too much time/work. So do we cut them out a set of other fenders? Couldn't find a decent early pair as donors, so ordered a pair of replacement buckets. Should be here in a couple weeks.


Got the replacement headlight buckets. I hacked out the top mounting tabs. Used some more of the other bucket to make plates that will be used to sandwich the carbon fender with the mounting tabs. Tab and inside support plate are in the middle of the pic.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01365.jpg~original

Did the carbon treatment to the inside headlight bucket:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01139.jpg~original

Need to install the headlight wire conduit, drains, wire the ballasts/high beam solenoid, and trim up the tabs/plates above for final install.

Here it is mocked up, ignore the reflections:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01357.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01359.jpg~original

Pete

[Steve C]

Hi

Looking very high tech.

I have a set Hella Xenon & halogen modules that I was going to fit into my 1303, but I think that they are going to be too deep and I would have to cut into the headlight buckets.

On my old bug with 17 inch wheels the tyres used to kiss headlight bucket at times.

How much did you need to cut into the back of the headlight bucket?

So now I'm thinking just using stock 911 H4 headlights with a Xenon conversion.

Steve

My Hella modules, they even have self leveling
http://www.clubvw.org.au/images/xenon.jpg

http://www.clubvw.org.au/images/A3_LIGHTS1.jpg

http://www.clubvw.org.au/images/A3_LIGHTS2.jpg

[petevw]

Hey Steve,

I didn't cut the headlight bucket. It still looks like this:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/52split/98e5.jpg~original

Those self leveling lights would be pretty cool.

[wrenchnride247]

Those look killer... you are a sick man Pete! (mad fab skilz)

[chug_A_bug]

Nice Work Buddy...
looks GREAT :D

Chris.

[Steve C]

Those self leveling lights would be pretty cool.

Hi

I hope they do the Xenon dance on startup, like the late BMs, Porsches etc.

I have been measuring and double checking and I think I can fit them in, I will have a better look when I get to that part of the project.

Steve

[petevw]

Didn't do much with the split for the month of July. Too many other things going on. Plan to hit it again in the next couple weeks. I'll update.

Pete

[Sandeep]

That '52 is looking awesome Pete ... looking forward to seeing the progress pics.

Sandeep

[petevw]

Did alot of modding to my daily driver TDI this summer. Took time away from the split. That's why i haven't updated in awhile.

It's getting cold out, so back into the garage. :D

The uniball plates got powdercoated, haven't installed them yet, but they finished up like this:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC01370.jpg~original

[petevw]

Next up, the crotch coolers. Toying with different ideas for quite a while.

In this pic, the crotch cooler hole was filled with a piece of carbon that was glued to a fiber plate of some sort. Not functional. The flaps were not available when the car was painted, but i've always wanted to have functional flaps with the carbon.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/split100.jpg~original

Tried to source the cooler flaps to gut/grind the hardware apart and try to fix them to a piece of carbon. Not available. Even the guys repoping the parts in South America didn't have those parts. So a OEM set were sandblasted clean and the thinking continued........

Cut apart a Carbon Joe panel for material. It was too thick so shaved/sanded down the 2 layers of fiberglass behind the carbon fiber. Was left with the one layer of carbon fiber, that was to my surprise, pretty flexible.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02144.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02252.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02253.jpg~original

Now i needed to find an adhesive to get it to stick to metal really hard so i can sand it. Tried different quickset epoxies, instant adhesives, and some Loctite gel stuff. None worked well. Some had a weird reaction with the resin in the carbon, and others dried all rubbery. Gave JB Weld a try, and it was perfect.

A little oversize, and some extra gunk, to allow shaping:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02147.jpg~original

Sanded:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02155.jpg~original

Time to try it out for real.

It's now drying under the weight of some A2 steel, nice and heavy :lmao:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02255.jpg~original

I'll give it a couple days to get hard, before touching it. We'll see how this turns out. :shocked:

Pete

[gonebuggy]

Looking awesome Pete!

The carbon fiber covers on the cooler flaps is, well, too cool!:lmao:
JB weld is the king of adhesives.

Your uniball suspension parts look marvelous;)

Keep up the great work!

Alex

[NO_H2O]

Keep at it Pete. I want to see it on the street.

[Wally]

Oh! Sweet! I really like the work so far.
Git 'er done ;)

[chug_A_bug]

nice WORK buddy...keep it Up :)
they are going to look SWEET MAN

Chris.

[Luismj]

Beautiful work Pete!

Below other beautiful eyes... Interestingly, the lens is transparent and has the same format as the original 911.

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/luismjr/3-1.jpg~original

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/luismjr/2010_singer_911_prototype_6-568-426.jpg~original

more here:
http://www.singervehicledesign.com/

[Humble]

Glad to see the CF crotch cooler doors are staying :) can't wait to see them finished.

I was joking around with someone the other day about led lights and turn signals and the thought of led semaphores came to mind. The mix of new tech and old tech seemed like it would really fit your build. Got any plans for leds?

[kuleinc]

Sweet door flaps! I used H4 conversion HIDs in my bug for a while until the voltage drop during low idle warmup blew a ballast... Still trying to find something better, with a decent projector that goes in the buckets easy...

[effvee]

Beautiful work Pete!

Below other beautiful eyes... Interestingly, the lens is transparent and has the same format as the original 911.

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/luismjr/3-1.jpg~original

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/luismjr/2010_singer_911_prototype_6-568-426.jpg~original

more here:
http://www.singervehicledesign.com/

:cool: Ah man, this is not a car, this is pure car porn, wow:D

[petevw]

update:

The carbon crotchcooler flaps have been worked over, test fitted, and are ready for inner paint. Hmmm......black or try and match the body paint?

Headlights are FINALLY ready for install. I've nicknamed them....The Million Dollar Headlights. :lmao: I've spend an unbelievable amount of hours to build/fab them.
-OEM FX45 projectors are now modded with clear lenses. Really nice cutoff and colour!
-Ditched the generic clear Oval lenses, and sourced early Split clear Hella glass. Had a local Crystal grinding shop grind a pair of notches in each lens. Notches are to clear the trim's adjusting screws like the later glass, so it can all be assembled.
-Wiring for ballast/highbeam solenoid/grounds done.
*needs to be installed in the fender.

Plastic fender beading will be replaced with repopped Split fender cloth welting. Then the headlights get mounted.

Hopefully tommorrow or Friday, i can get my hands on a completed part i've been thinking of for awhile. I won't spill the beans just yet........I'll get pics up.......

later,
Pete

[petevw]

I was joking around with someone the other day about led lights and turn signals and the thought of led semaphores came to mind. The mix of new tech and old tech seemed like it would really fit your build. Got any plans for leds?

I may do a LED panel for the small round tailights. Don't want to get rear-ended.
As for the semaphores's lights and solenoids, they are 6V. Is there a 6V LED equivalent of this bulb? hmmm..........

Pete

[Humble]

I think you could find an led bulb that would work just fine as long as you know the bulb size. It might be a little dim if you start with a 12v bulb, but the other option is to build your own with 1.5w or 3w leds.

[ricola]

Not sure the exact voltage but most LEDs operate at only 5V from memory so they would work fine, you couldn't use the off the shelf conversion ones tho as they normally have a built in resistor to drop the voltage down to the correct level and this would be too low with a 6V supply.

[petevw]

These are the specs on the 6V semaphore bulb. Part# N177261 :

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/img/wwpn/N177261.jpg

Do you guys know of an LED equivalent?

Pete

[CLKWRK]

http://www.ledtronics.com/products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=C296K234
http://www.ledshoponline.com/automotive_leds_festoon.htm#31smt
they do make them, i saw them in the showroom at automotive warehouse in Niagara on the lake.

[kuleinc]

any pic sof the headlights installed? I have som eprojectors around at work from Bimers but they all look too deep...

[petevw]

any pic sof the headlights installed? I have som eprojectors around at work from Bimers but they all look too deep...

I'll get a couple pics up tommorrow.

Pete

[petevw]

Got my gloveboxes done. Really happy with how they turned out. No more cardboard.....they are carbon. :eek:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/parts/DSC02400.jpg~original

I went to pick them up, and he showed me a Kawasaki gas tank he was overlaying in carbon tucked away in the corner of his garage:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/parts/DSC02398.jpg~original

So stupid thoughts started racing in my head.........Do the same to the split gas tank? What do you guys think?

Got the headlights together. Opted for the early Hella glass, and had the 2 notched ground into them to fit my housings. Grinding was done by a local Crystal grinding shop.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02386.jpg~original

The slim ballast\igniter\terminal block stuffed in the back of it.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02397.jpg~original

Fired up:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02388.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02392.jpg~original

[chug_A_bug]

LOOKS great pete... :D
anyword on the running boards??
keep the pics coming
Chris.

[NO_H2O]

Love those headlights

[Wally]

Love those headlights

+1 !! VERY beautifull.

[Sandeep]

Fantastic Pete. That split is going to be a show stopper. Well done !

Sandeep

[Humble]

ooooh, CF tank is very tempting, can't say i've ever seen that done before. Headlights look fantastic and the beam pattern looks pretty good.

[petevw]

Thanks for the comments.

Installed the gloveboxes. Really happy with how they turned out. I'll post a pic later.

LOOKS great pete... :D
anyword on the running boards??
keep the pics coming
Chris.

Running boards are in process. I'll get back to you with a number hopefully tommorrow. We spoke about molds, and the durabilty needed as it will need to pop out a few sets while being repeatable. So the mold is coming along, and he's crunching the numbers for the actual CF parts. Going by there tomorrow with my CF crotch cooler flaps to finish(spray and blend black). Will try to get him to nail down a number for cost on the boards so we can get this rolling.

Any other parts needed in CF?

ooooh, CF tank is very tempting, can't say i've ever seen that done before. Headlights look fantastic and the beam pattern looks pretty good.

Yup , the CF tank is tempting........ But it might be to much CF going on up front(can't believe i said too much CF :eek:). The issue i have with it, is that all the CF on this car is pure CF. No "ricer" overlays. This tank would be an overlay. But on the other hand, it would look awesome! :D

I'm lacking CF out back. Nothing in the engine bay. Will need to figure out what to do back there.

The headlights have a real nice cutoff line. Swapped the OEM FX45 lenses with clear glass from www.theretrofitsource.com. Sharp cutoff.

Pete

[Sandeep]

How about a type 4 horizontal cooling shroud in carbon :D

I'll even make the mold ! Let's talk Pete as I really need one to finish of my engine. Can't have the bug on the road with out one :(

Can he do door panels / rear quarter panels ?

Sandeep

[petevw]

How about a type 4 horizontal cooling shroud in carbon :D

I'll even make the mold ! Let's talk Pete as I really need one to finish of my engine. Can't have the bug on the road with out one :(

Can he do door panels / rear quarter panels ?

Sandeep

He can do whatever i tell him to! :lmao:

I'm sure it won't be a problem if you have a mold.

I talked to him last month about door panels, and he said no problem. He was making flat sheets for the DSM crowd to use as splitters. He lays the carbon on a piece of glass, and then puts the vaccum to it.

Give me some demensions(or your old panels-i tossed the '71 super's in the trash), and you can sand it to the final size. I had ordered panels from Carbon Joe for my split, and gave them up to Chris casue they were a different size. I took my original Remmelle panels down in size to fit the rib door properly.

[CLKWRK]

can he make me a new body (sans ricey bumper)
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=carbon+fiber+ghia&FORM=BIFD#focal=9c05d41aca438bedbb5c3c488d7c0526&furl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.prefix.com%2FRace%2FGhia.png
kidding, I bet it would cost a fortune for a carbon ghia body, however a carbon flat fan would be sweet for sandeeps ride

[petevw]

^^^^^ Pretty cool!

http://www.prefix.com/Images/Projects/Ghia/Ghia.jpg

[evilC]

]^^^^^ Pretty cool![/B]
http://www.prefix.com/Images/Projects/Ghia/Ghia.jpg

As you would expect without any 'screen or glass!;):lmao:

[petevw]

Here are the carbon gloveboxes installed:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02521.jpg~original

What do you guys think if using a standard wheel? Refinished black with body colour spokes?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/split/DSC02422.jpg~original

Pete

[owdlvr]

Hi Pete,

What are you using for pedal covers?

-Dave

[CLKWRK]

Looks slick, me likey

[chug_A_bug]

looks great Pete.. I would put a Sparco wheel on it ;)

Chris.

[petevw]

Hi Pete,

What are you using for pedal covers?

-Dave

I'm trying to figure that out now. In that pic, it has Jamex pedals.

[NO_H2O]

Looks good Pete.

[petevw]

Hey guys, it's been awhile.

Got sidetracked from this '52 project with my bus. Now that it's 95% done, time to get back on the splitty!

http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5426

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff54/b_purkiss/SpringFling2012/SpringFling2012-77.jpg~original

Engine look familiar Dave(NO_H2O)?

Out of the smack black bug and into this.

http://i.imgur.com/9Nuvth.jpg~original

[NO_H2O]

Good to see the old 2275 is serving you well. It had a good torque cure that should do well in the bus. We missed you here but I knew you would be into the bus for a while as soon as I saw pix of it. Nice find and nice build to bring it back and update it. Love that bus.

[petevw]

Looky here: 2332T for this '52.

Next up, tear it down, plumb car and wire all for EFI. :D

Will she all fit? Thats the million dollar question i should know the answer to this spring! :lmao:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1343344783.jpg~original

[Sandeep]

Fantastic find Pete! Hoping to join you this spring. ;)

Sandeep

[petevw]

Hey Sandeep! Heard a rumor you are back in the scene.

[NO_H2O]

Will it fit? I still have the big 6 foot "Shoe-horn" it used for the Herbie-X. LOL.

[Wally]

Nice! (pls try to fit an intercooler of some sort)
;)

[DORIGTT]

What pump are you using to scavenge the oil from the turbocharger?

[petevw]

What pump are you using to scavenge the oil from the turbocharger?

Turbowerx:

http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html

[Bug@5speed(US)]

So please school me on these scavenger pumps.

Assuming since turbo is below th pan, there is no way for gravity to help with allowing turbo oil to drain properly?

Is it common to have the out let drain to where the oil dipstick or vent would go? Need some clarification on why, the outlet does not feed into oil pan area? Can this be used this way with a dry sump setup?
Pondering this approach for a type 4 in my bug down the road.
Thanks in advance,
Alex

Ps last question before Xmas �� with regard to the hours discusses on the pumps website, are these rebuildable or does one need to send out for 10k hr intervals?

[petevw]

Good to see the old 2275 is serving you well. It had a good torque cure that should do well in the bus. We missed you here but I knew you would be into the bus for a while as soon as I saw pix of it. Nice find and nice build to bring it back and update it. Love that bus.

Hi Dave,

Had the trans out of the bus for a 2nd gear down shift grind issue. So since the engine was out, and we had a local dyno day, I brought along the 2276 to play. The engine made 140hp and 130tq. Not too far off the numbers you ran on Jake Raby's dyno many years ago.

Pete

[petevw]

So please school me on these scavenger pumps.

Assuming since turbo is below th pan, there is no way for gravity to help with allowing turbo oil to drain properly?

Is it common to have the out let drain to where the oil dipstick or vent would go? Need some clarification on why, the outlet does not feed into oil pan area? Can this be used this way with a dry sump setup?
Pondering this approach for a type 4 in my bug down the road.
Thanks in advance,
Alex

Ps last question before Xmas �� with regard to the hours discusses on the pumps website, are these rebuildable or does one need to send out for 10k hr intervals?

Hi Alex,

I wouldn't know if this pump can be used as a dry sump pump. Decided to drop the oil back into the engine fr the filler spout because it was convenient. There is way to much going on around the sump with this type of header. As for the pump being rebuildable? Don't know. This pump was suggested to be used be a engine builder friend. He has had good experience with them, with no failures.

Pete

[petevw]

Work will start again on the '52. Need to get the trans and motor back into the bus in the next couple of weeks.

Can't wait.

[petevw]

Back to working on this.

Never liked the plastic fender to body gasket. Ordered up the cloth fender welting many years ago and finally got to swapping it in. I didn't like the pre-cutouts of the plastic for the bolt locations. So I punched holes instead and installed. With the holes, it bunches up around the radius which I don't mind as the cloth is in contact all around.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1371315494_zps6d388164.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1371315499_zps70770913.jpg~original

Last night installed the Uniball plates I made. Took pic as I was installing so as you can see bolt missing and loose. It is completely bolted up now.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1371315504_zps44edf2a9.jpg~original

Have been looking for this MB SLK 55/65 spare wheel for awhile. Have an idea that I want to try. We'll see how it plays out.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1371315503_zps9410d184.jpg~original

[petevw]

Carbon crotch coolers installed:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1371557122_zps9f68ca35.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/petevw/1371557127_zps030d1199.jpg~original