View Full Version : WRX/Porsche Karmann cabrio 1303

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March 6th 2012, 00:29
had a quick question on your build. im using the same gauges in my 1303 build. do you happen to have/ or know where i can find the wiring diagram for the pigtail that comes off the gauge that has all the warning lights/ temp/ fuel level? awsome build btw! keep up the good work!

March 6th 2012, 12:49
Send me an email with yours and I'll send you the excel file...

March 6th 2012, 22:02
thanks man. ill PM you my email.

March 20th 2012, 10:14
Hei Ricola!

Beautiful car! I am building my 1303 with Porsche Boxster seats. Sad I haven't seen your way of mounting them before now... Your mounts looks really clean and easy to build while mine are bigger, heavier and takes more place.

Could you please give some more pics of how it was done with some "prescription"? How did you find the right positions for rear bolts and whats the hight of you sitting position.

Boxster seats are so low that I needed to build pretty high mounting bracket. But I also struggle with body on pan. Is it possible to make your type mounts with full body car?

Hope you can help with some experience :)

March 20th 2012, 14:41
I mocked up my seats so I could get the seat as far back as possible with full adjustment to the rear, there is plenty of fore/aft travel. Height is just a case of experimenting but you should see the relative heights to the tunnel on mine. The front mount isn't really high enough for support under the leg so I have also made spacers for the driver's seat to get the best position.

My chassis is so modified from stock and the front seat mount is structural so I don't think this is feasible in a stock bug as there would be a lot of extra weight with much less strength by the heater channel end. I think on a stock bug I'd be tempted to adapt the seat to the VW runners which would be neater and much narrower. The Porsche mechanism only just fits within the width of the heater channel so mounting from the floorpan is tricky. There are plenty of others running Porsche seats on here, see what they do?

News from me: all the interior is with a new trimmer and we have chosen materials, just hope I have better luck this time! Shooting for end of April..

April 6th 2012, 03:00
Hey Rich how ya gettin on,I cant wait to see this one on the road :cool:

April 6th 2012, 07:56
I'm on holiday at the moment. Will bring 930 size axles and cvs back with me. Hopefully the trimmer is making good progress on the interior right now as he has all the seats, dash, carpets etc for me to reassemble when I get back. Not long now!

April 28th 2012, 11:57
since im running the same gauges you are, i gotta ask another question, what temp sensor did you end up using for your temp gauge in your porsche gauges?

April 28th 2012, 13:09
I'm using the stock subaru sender. Thought I'd give it a try as it was already on the engine and it works perfectly!

Still waiting on the trimmer & design911 for the CVs..

May 7th 2012, 14:21
The old 944 CVs were clicking a bit and my plan was to upgrade to 930 CVs anyway. Here are the bits needed for conversion; new stub axles, I already had G50 trans drive-flanges, custom length axles (16 1/4") in 28 spline to match the CVs.

Here are the GKN CVs, I cleaned up the flanges that came with my gearbox but needed an extra pair. After getting up off the floor after being quoted Ģ120 each from Porsche I found some cheaper options from prolinx.

CVs are being 'clocked' as this gives them the best alignment relative to each other, just like you do with a UJ.

All ready to go on the car

And fitted!

Clearance is very tight to the coil-over but is pass-able (this is worst case compression clearance). I spent ages trying to get some smaller motorsport CV boots from GKN only to find that they had stopped making the size I needed!

I've been asked so many times about my cooling system I've finally modified a schematic to show how it is all plumbed up. This system works perfectly, gets up to temperature fast and stays at a constant temperature. The other bonus is that I don't even have to bleed the system from an empty fill as it is completely self bleeding!

May 7th 2012, 15:23
Very nice! Where did you get the new 108mm stub axles?
You run a steel trailing arm right?
I am contemplating this mod as well for two years already or longer, but since my old (surely partly or mostly worn) old T2 CV's still hold for some weird reason, I have posponed this conversion still...knock on wood though as Richie says around 500hp, the 100mm's will break...

Love the indexing of the CV's. Never even thought of that. You are a much better mechanic then I am, trust me ;-)

Whats a good source for quality CV's Rich?

May 7th 2012, 15:36
I got the stub axles from appletreeauto, they are empi and I think the only type out there, seem fine and were pretty cheap for what they are, about $70 each.

Yup, I'm running steel arms. I saw the indexing thing while researching the CVs, makes perfect sense and a definite issue with full on massive travel suspension buggies but it is surely a good idea whatever the angle! Not sure about the mechanic bit Wally, seems we are both trying out new things, just in a slightly different direction!

I believe the best CVs are GKN/Lobro, I avoided the empi ones which don't have the best reputation. For the ultimate they should be polished (you can get special polishing cylinders, videos on youtube) with chromoly cages but I think for road use I should be OK.

May 7th 2012, 16:12
Tnx mate!

May 30th 2012, 13:53

After 9 weeks of chasing, my second trimmer only managed to get the door panels and roof hinge covers done... I've now bitten the bullet and gone with a very good guy I've used before, just more expensive, but I know that he will do very good work and for my deadline which is the end of June.

I also had issues with the iphone dock, it seems the docks aren't straight through electrically and Alpine have a particular way of connecting together. I tried opening it up and making more connections but it still doesn't work... Any ideas?!?

May 30th 2012, 17:30
No clue on I-phones in general, but the door trim combined with the color of the trim and the paint looks ace!

May 31st 2012, 05:13
Does look good!

Depending on the age of the HU you might be able to grab the service manual with wiring diagram from the Alpine site. How does the cable from the HU mount into the dock - is it the Apple connector? Is it perhaps the dock that is causing the issue? Long route would be to fabricate your own "dock" hard mounting the Alpine cable.

Edit: Just found this - does it help


for this type of connector


May 31st 2012, 06:54
The head unit does have that sort of connector but the one I use is the USB to apple lead as this supports charging which the other doesn't. It works fine when the lead is plugged directly into the phone, I initially thought the dock was essentially just a right angle connector with some supports but it seems that it doesn't have full connectivity..

May 31st 2012, 07:11
Think you are in for another genuine apple lead (I say genuine because all others ae horse **** and die quickly - the girlfriend has an Iphone... Grrr) and some creativity ;) You mentioned having touched the connectors in the dock - presumably after finding the Ipod pinout but to no avail?

May 31st 2012, 07:50
Unfortunately the Alpine cable, although connectors are identical, is unique. The standard USB to apple connectors don't work.. I've read there is an internal resistor somewhere to tell the HU what device is connected.

The dock didn't work before or after I messed with the internals. Originally the analogue audio out from the phone was diverted to a 3.5mm phono connector on the dock, what I tried was to reroute them the the other end of the dock but still no luck...

I think I might have to create my own dock which the Alpine lead & phone will fit snuggly into...

May 31st 2012, 10:38
I'm sure your are more than capable ;) spare 03 ash tray anyone?

May 31st 2012, 10:55
lol, guess what I picked up from the local VW breakers on my way home yesterday ;)

Bad news... My trimmer has had his Bentley contract double for the next month so he has had to cancel on me :( Looks like I have another option, yet more expense, with the UK Recaro dealer...

May 31st 2012, 11:32
If travemming/couriering wasn't an issue, how about Bernard Newbury or Rag Bag? Got to be someone about!

May 31st 2012, 12:22
They are actually quite reasonable, will have to give them a call tomorrow and book it in, they were saying they could do it within a few weeks too so will be even quicker!

June 4th 2012, 15:49
Don't forget Steve Hudson. He'd do a good job.

August 2nd 2012, 01:00
Hi Rich ,how you gettiong on with your trimmer ?

I am about to start some more work on my project,if you where to do your build again would you still go g50 or would you consider reverse cut subaru gears route.I know you have not driven yours yet but I would just like to hear your views so far.


August 3rd 2012, 13:17
Trimmer was delayed by lack of leather hides, will hopefully be picking it all up next week and it won't take more than a day to get it all back together...

I really do like the concept of using the subaru trans but here are my thoughts:

G50 is proven for big power, keeps it in the family, adapter kits available, I wanted to future proof for strength (500bhp)

Porsche clutches are bloody expensive!! G50s are very expensive! Adapter plate still so are relying on some bespoke parts

Subaru was designed for the front end of an AWD car, on hard use they unload the front and still get broken at about 350bhp in subarus. This make sme question them being used at the rear where the axle will get loaded up more on acceleration. I believe you still have to sort out custom axles?

I wouldn't hesitate using a subaru trans with an NA engine but remain to be convinced for turbo. It would be very nice to keep it all in the same family as far as OEM parts fitting together properly though.

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment... I do still think of a fibreglass 356 coupe with AWD scooby drivetrain though!

August 3rd 2012, 15:50
Good post Rich, nothing to add/comment.

August 5th 2012, 01:34
Thanks for that Rich/ Wally.I am going G50 without a doubt after comments from two of my most resopected builders on here.:notworthy:PM s sent

August 9th 2012, 16:34
I finally got the call to say the interior was ready late yesterday afternoon... I left work early to pick it up and now it's in!!


under artificial light

Natural light

August 9th 2012, 17:01
Gorgeous! That's got to feel good! Are those Boxster or 997 seats? Custom brackets? I'm wondering how my Boxster seats will fit in width wise.


August 9th 2012, 17:07
Yeah, still a few bits to sort out but not really cosmetic. The seats came out of a 996 turbo, they are the sports option ones. I just stripped and painted the hard backs..

August 10th 2012, 04:17
Gorgeous! That's got to feel good! Are those Boxster or 997 seats? Custom brackets? I'm wondering how my Boxster seats will fit in width wise.


No problem with Boxster seats in 1303. Here is mine:


Realy nice job ricola!!!

August 10th 2012, 22:44
Looks "the tits" mate!:D

August 11th 2012, 06:35
No problem with Boxster seats in 1303. Here is mine:


Realy nice job ricola!!!

I have a set of 8 way electric 993 seats for a 1302 cabrio and need to wire them in. Did you have a wiring diagram to help you with yours or how did you work out what wires went where?

Thanks for any help you can give me.


August 11th 2012, 14:18
That interior looks fantastic. Well worth the wait.

August 13th 2012, 11:50

August 15th 2012, 14:43
looks stunning rich! officially done and dusted then?

August 15th 2012, 15:33
I don't think these are ever really done! Last thing, before at least stage 1 is done, is to make up some new sunvisors. I'm going to make up some early style smoked black perspex ones..

August 20th 2012, 15:40
The pictures above drove me into coming up wiht a replacement set of sunvisors quickly! Although they matched the headlining I think they clashed badly with the roof down. I'd have the idea of making up some smoked plastic ones, in the style of early VWs, for a while so decided now was the time! Above is what a stripped sunvisor looks like, all this just to get the pivot.

I then made up a hinge assembly and cut some 5mm tinted perspex to shape and this is how they ended up, I'm very happy with this look.. At the same time I also painted the rear-view mirror base black to match.


September 9th 2012, 13:18
I got fed up with messing around trying to trick the stock ECU to make the correct boost with my much modified from stock (subaru) intake and exhaust so I have now fitted a Gizzmo MS-2 electronic boost controller. This has closed loop boost control as well as turbo timer and FCD (which I won't be using). It now finally makes 1.1 bar without overshooting and hitting the fuel cut but I will still be playing with the rate at which boost comes in. I had a second ashtray surround which I welded up and modified to fit the Gizzmo controller. It certainly feels a lot quicker now so my times will undoubtedly be better!

Cheers for the Gizzmo recommendation Wally ;)


September 9th 2012, 13:45
Good to hear it works as well for you as it did for me :)
You have it way neater installed too btw ;)

September 9th 2012, 13:55
There's still some fine tuning to be done, I was put off course by a leaking pipe so gains were way off to the point that I thought there was a problem with the solenoid! Proper clips on the solenoid pipes sorted that and I'm currenty using a duty of 66% and 5% gain. I did think about putting it under the dash with tie wraps but thought I may as well make it semi-permanent, lol. I may end up putting it in the glovebox to look a bit more subtle but for the moment it's good to have it monitoring things with it in view..

September 9th 2012, 14:17
Yeah, its nice that it operates as a boost gauge as well.
I now use 25% gain, which works well. At 30% it can overshoot the target boost a little I think, but I haven't played much with gain.
60% duty is a about 60% over wastegate boost with my set-up (Tial external 44mm gate). Just for your reference ;-)

September 9th 2012, 14:22
While playing earlier I got it to 1.09 bar during duty set-up in open loop mode and I've switched it to closed loop now, not driven it since but hopefully that should keep me safe. It's amazing how variable the duty levels are across different cars, I was initially working around 20% and thought it was changing but the leak and variability run to run fooled me. My VOS map is good for 18psi I believe so that's a fairly safe level, still managed to surprise an Aston Martin earlier near Gaydon :)

October 15th 2012, 17:43
Time for an update...


I took the car on track and although it was struggling with the ignition side of things, at 1.2Bar boost, it was going OK. GPS'd it at 130mph with loads more to go but then I blew the intercooler pipe and sudden loss of power along with clouds of smoke out of the back end! You should be able to spot the hole in the turbo to chargecooler pipe in the pic above..

I was hoping for an easy fix (and excuse to upgrade to silicone pipe), worst case it may have been the turbo but I have a spare one of those. I've also got some newage coilpacks on the way to upgrade from the old ones which degrade quite badly with age.

The parts arrived so I got cracking...

New silicone pipe bought to replace the holed one, this should be good for much higher boost too.

Unfortunately after swapping the pipe and the turbo the oil filter seal blew dumping oil all over the garage floor. I tried another filter and the same thing happened. Googling pointed towards the relief valve on the oil pump being jammed shut.


After fitting another oil pump the engine seems to run ok with normal oil pressure, albeit chucking out a lot of smoke from the oil it has in the intake! The old oil pump relief valve was jammed solid almost closed, even with the pump off the car I can't move it!

Changing the pump meant stripping the rear panels off the car as well as cambelt etc etc so now I had to refit and seal things back up. I'm also using the opportunity of it being up in the air to convert to newage coilpacks which will also help it run better on boost. I made new looms for them tonight as a change and will bypass the old ignitor as the new coilpacks have built in igniters..

The early optimism ended in disappointment, I went for a drive and it was gutless and the oil screen didn't improve. I got a compression tester and one of the cylinders showed no compression at all. There was nothing to do but pull the engine and get the head off to assess...


You can just about make out some damage to the top of the cylinder wall


and if you look carefully you can see that the ring is distorted, I'm assuming that the piston ring land has failed underneath...


So, after contemplating my options and considering where I want to be realistically with this car I've decided to rebuild it with a 2.5 sti bottom end. It's a semi-closed deck block but they are good for about 450bhp, I think that should be enough in a bug!! I was also considering a forged 2 or 2.1 stroker but for drivability the torque of a 2.5 wins for me. I'll upgrade the externals to allow greater power at a later date.

October 16th 2012, 04:03
Man, thats some tough luck all together..:(

You have great perseverance though! :)

If at all possible, maybe upgrading rods and pistons on the 2.5 would be a good idea to prevent any ring or ring land problems in the future?

October 16th 2012, 05:37
I'm considering my options for pistons, if I stay at a relatively safe tune to 400bhp, stock should be fine. The drop in forged tend to have poor clearances. Hone to fit seem to be the best but that means splitting the block again, not necessarily a bad thing to do I suppose!

October 16th 2012, 07:14
I'm considering my options for pistons, if I stay at a relatively safe tune to 400bhp, stock should be fine.

'relatively safe tune' with stock parts is the key word here.
There are only a few that can give you that power under those bounderies...you know what I'am saying here I'am sure ;)

The drop in forged tend to have poor clearances.

Although very true (I would say drop-in & forged does not go in one and the same sentence) I was actually gonna say that for the stock block too: at double the power the stock rings may not have the correct clearence either for this.. maybe that is also the problem at hand with what your seeing now?

October 16th 2012, 14:59
Bad luck :(

These things are sent to test us - i found myself in a similar positon after a week of driving (but with my gearbox)

Atleast it gives you something to do over the winter months ;) cant wait to see the car on the show scene next year!!


October 16th 2012, 15:09
Argh how feckin annoying Rich :mad:, cars have a habit of driving ya crazy at times :mad:I am sure you'll get it sorted in no time though.

All the best Graham

October 16th 2012, 16:47
No rush to get it back together, I'm sure I'll think of a few other jobs to do at the same time! Bit of a shame as a photoshoot for Volksworld feature was planned for last week, won't be happening for a little while now. I now have the shortblock sat in the garage :)

October 17th 2012, 09:03
Sorry about the bad luck. Keep your head down and before you know it, you will be back stronger than before.

October 17th 2012, 11:45
Hard luck man :( Just keep thinking of those fun quick bursts of speed while you're rebuilding it to get you through. For my 2 cents, I recommend building it right, with forged rods/pistons now, even if it means waiting a little longer to get it back on the road. Do it once and be done with it, don't risk overboost, or bad gas or whatever blowing up the motor a 2nd time because it's on edge. You've got one of the sweetest projects on this site and I'd hate to see it undermined by another motor blow.

Also, now would be a good time to paint match some engine bits, not that I'm suggesting anything :D

October 17th 2012, 12:14
Paint match what? I think you can go too far with colour-coding, I prefer the OEM+ look to modifying. If it looks right then it normally is!

I just dropped by a local subaru specialist (API Impreza) and they are going to look over my parts and advise the best combination (3 engines to chose from!). I will more than likely go with forged pistons, the sti rods are already forged. They can also get early heads machined to the 2.5 volume and shape which would avoid detonation. I'll finish off with getting it mapped properly, not just a generic aftermarket one..

October 27th 2012, 15:34
With the old block unusable in its state I decided to bring the final plan forwards... So, with a bit of hunting I found a 'rebuilt' 2.5l STI shortblock on ebay.

Final build will consist of 2.5 sti upgraded with forged pistons, V3/V4 sti heads which I will rebuild, upgrade one of my turbos to td05-20g, new bigger injectors, new oil modine, sump baffle plate and probably some other supporting mods being topped off with a remap on an ESL daughterboard, probably by Bob Rawle when he visits API.


The shortblock as I received it. With some thought I decided that I will always feel uneasy about the stock pistons as they haven't got a very good reputation. After a chat with David at API (well respeced Impreza engine builders only 5 miles away from my house!) I decided to go with some forged pistons. Supertechs have a good reputation for not being rattly like most and API have experience of them so that's the way I have gone. The stock rods are good for 450bhp ish as they are the latest spec ones. My goal is a good 400bhp.


Time to split the block as the cylinders needed honing to fit the pistons. It would also give me a good opportunity to inspect the 'rebuild'.


The big end bearings were supposedly new! I've replaced them with ACL bearings



Main bearing clearances checked with plastigage, they are all good, as are the bearings. Luckily this is the better nitrided crank too..


Block halves back from API after being honed, they have been done to 3.8thou piston clearance.


Here's the first supertech piston, I've gapped the rings to specs..

I'm quite enjoying this engine building lark, this is my first attempt!!

October 28th 2012, 05:05
Your being thorough with measuring bearing clearences and all, well done!
Pistons look nice indeed.
Liner thickness seems plenty for 400-500 hp too :-)

October 28th 2012, 05:16
The stock 2.5 blocks are at about their limit at 500bhp so I'm well within that. Any more and you have to either peg the block around the cylinders or press in an insert around the top of the liners which emulates the closed deck block design.. I had to draw the line somewhere!

October 30th 2012, 01:52
Glad to see your back on it Rich,I have heard good reports about API on scooby forums so I would say your in good hands there :).

Sorry for the hi jack, but do you use a porsche starter or other high torque
unit ?

Regards Graham

October 30th 2012, 05:46
Hi Graham,
Just the standard fitment Porsche starter for the G50, I think they have different depth engagement for the pinion gear through the years (trans) so you need the right one for your flywheel..

November 2nd 2012, 02:11
Hi Graham,
Just the standard fitment Porsche starter for the G50, I think they have different depth engagement for the pinion gear through the years (trans) so you need the right one for your flywheel..
Thanks for that Rich.
I just spotted a small pic of your car at the Pod, in the December issue of the Volksworld Mag, got to say it looks the dogs.

November 2nd 2012, 03:07
Thanks for that Rich.
I just spotted a small pic of your car at the Pod, in the December issue of the Volksworld Mag, got to say it looks the dogs.

I saw the car IRL there at VW-Action. Its even more impressive standing next to it, believe me ;)

November 13th 2012, 18:44
Block ready to go back together with new seals, note tape on rod little ends to avoid the risk of scratching the bores on assembly.

All torqued and sealed up..

first piston going in...

all pistons in, you have to make sure they are all orientated correctly as well as positioning the piston ring gaps too

V4 STI cylinder heads stripped for refresh. All valves cleaned up, re-lapped in to the heads and then ready for first lash measurement. These heads use under-bucket solid shims which come in various different thicknesses and you change shims to get the correct clearances.

I knocked off any sharp edges in the combustion chamber to help avoid detonation, this can sometimes be an issue when fitting 2l heads on a 2.5 block due to the slight cylinder diameter mismatch

You can see one of the shims sitting on top of a valve.

Lots of measuring!

and measuring, then swapping shims

Ready to go on the engine!

ARP head studs fitted to give better head gasket clamping under boost

Back to a longblock! I had to fit the cambelt and re-check the valve clearances as the cam loading can change things. Luckily only one shim needed swapping after assembly.

V3/4 cam covers were cleaned up and treated to some VHT wrinkle paint, note one on left hadn't had any heat applied ot get the wrinkle effect started yet.

Coolant manifold needs modifying to clear the central 2.5l breather pipe.

Now I just have to decide what turbo and injectors to go with!

November 14th 2012, 03:25
Turbo and injectors choosing is the fun part!
I noticed these heads seem to have more fillings between valves, suggesting a higher stock CR then others I have seen pics of?

Nice job on the assembly and tnx for the pics!
Out of interest: what are the intake and exhaust valve sizes on these 2,5ltr engines?

November 14th 2012, 05:41
Looking good so far.

November 14th 2012, 13:47
Wally, they are the early so-called cloverleaf style heads, I don't think the compression was originally any different. Combined with the 2.5 block and 1.6mm head gasket these should give about 8.2:1.. The heads are 2l, sorry, didn't measure the valve sizes but they are standard subaru, just being sti the exhausts are sodium filled.

December 18th 2012, 12:08
As it was apart, I've gone with an RCM oil baffle plate to help avoid surge.


Coolant manifold TIG'd back together, I deleted the normal heater pipe as I found as it's new role as a manual bleed I never actually got any air out of it and this way I have more space if I decide to go with a direct turbo intake under the intake manifold


Parts to make up a large bore exhaust crosspipe. I had already ported the stock item but it was still very restrictive. Grimmspeed sell one but I thought I may as well make one myself


tacked together and now ready for finish welding


Bought a set of 740cc/min Nismo phase 2 injectors, the phase 2 fuel rail can apparently be fettled to fit the phase 1 so I prefer this to using adapter rings. Note mounting tabs are on the wrong side of the rail, I might make an adapter out of a piece of 5mm plate like this...


Shiney go-faster bits have arrived! Scooby Clinic SC46 billet turbo based on a Garrett ball bearing core, good for 460bhp on V-power and an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator to go with an uprated fuel pump and parallel fuel rail conversion.


I've had to make a new intake to suit the front entry turbo, I could have gone under the inlet manifold but it would have lengthened the intake by a fair bit.


Engine back in the car and fired up for the first time, it sounds good! This is on the old map & injectors, mainly to get the oil system primed and make sure everything on the engine is good.


More bits arriving soon are:
oil breather catch tank
inlet manifold thermal insulating spacers
HRC 310 lpm fuel pump

Then I'll be ready for the re-map!

January 20th 2013, 14:46
Oil breather tank hanging off the back, there wasn't much space anywhere else! I also made up a new bracket which supports both the oil pressure senders and the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator


I was advised by my mapper that the old Legacy chargecooler would be limiting my performance so it was time to upgrade. I considered an air/air using enlarged ducts built into the rear wings but I don't really think I've got space for it. I eventually found a very good thread on using a frozenboost type 14 chargecooler. It is apparently good for 700 CFM / 600 BHP and one person reported that when running 22psi he sees a maximum of 10 degrees above ambiant but normally only about 5 degrees which is pretty efficient in my book!

2 weeks later and this arrived in the post:

I wasn't satisfied that the system would be working well without trapping air so I decided to drill and tap a bleed point. I drilled on a tilted table on my pillar drill very cautiously as I didn't want to wreck the core! Turns out the end tank isn't completely solid as it looks but cast and it hollowed out a bit with extra clearance to the air core so wasn't too bad to do. A small M6 bolt with O-ring will serve as a manual bleed.


The turbo pipe I made up to join to the chargecooler inlet. 2" going up to 2 1/2" with a fitting for the reciculating dump valve. I had off-cuts of stainless lying around from old exhaust system build so I'm sure it will do the job fine. The 2 1/2" end joins to the chargecooler with a 3" to 2 1/2" silicone reducer elbow.

You can see a strap supporting the weight of the chargecooler off the frame above via some rubber washers to isolate it. Just in sight is a filler cap from a Suzuki motorbike which has the correct size fittings for the water pipes.

Finally I had to some some re-shaping of the bulkead panel to clear the end tank.

Now it's ready for the running in map on an ESL daughterboard, just hope the recent snow doesn't delay things...

January 20th 2013, 14:59
It's looking really good Rich, just in time for spring too! looks like nyou;l have a full summer of enjoyment out of it! EBI??

January 20th 2013, 15:43
Cheers. I think Spa is probably a better bet for a German (ish) Looker :)

January 20th 2013, 15:55
*unfortunately* im on holiday in france when spa is on so im off to EBI. Sure il see you at some UK shows though (are you displaying at Vworld?) definately want to go to Apex this year!

January 20th 2013, 15:57
Shame.. I'm not planning on displaying at Volksworld, I'm getting a bit sick of spending half a day in traffic so not even sure I'll go this year.. Not sure which shows I'll end up at tbh!

January 21st 2013, 04:48
Same as always Rich - Looks like a top quality product. I'm awaiting seeing some figures one the map is on.

January 24th 2013, 15:48
Update from the mapping session..

The engine runs really well, nice and smooth with very good early turbo spool. By the end of the run the new chargecooler was still stone cold so all in fairly happy! The downside is that the clutch can't take the torque, we were limited to just under 1 bar boost pressure which is fine for running in but I'll have to sort out an uprated one before getting the final map up to full boost done.

January 24th 2013, 16:26
Clutches and injectors always seem to be too lowly rated somehow..
Glad to hear your engine now runs so nice! :-)

January 24th 2013, 16:29
Wally, did you find any other clutch options? KEP seems the obvious option but I imagine I would get seriously stung by customs. Patrick motorsports lists the pressure plate and disc at $1200...

January 24th 2013, 17:23
You run the original 240mm flywheel size and clutch now?
Your stuck with Kennedy parts as the least expensive then I think, all other clutch makers are located in usa as well afaik. Every other solution requires custum flywheel and machining work.

January 24th 2013, 17:24
Yes, running the stock clutch, KEP seems about the same price as a stock replacement. Did you come across any European stockists for Porsche KEP stuff?

January 24th 2013, 17:27
Nope, but even if there was, it turned out always cheaper to import the parts yourself, even at 1 piece. I think we pay similar taxes and inport duties. Dollar is still weak, pound is strong, get over it LOL!

January 25th 2013, 16:56
Hi Rich great to see it progressing and that chargecooler is a great mod :cool:.

I will be ordering an adapter plate soon form KEP and was wondering about clutch options.You have just answered something I've been wondering about.I think now I will get KEP to supply me a clutch.If you like we could order a pair of clutches with my adapter plate and possibly save some dosh on shipping ;) ( just a thought )


Steve C
January 26th 2013, 02:09

Good to hear the motor is running good

Used the KEP clutch with my installation, very happy with it but is little on or off but I think I can cure that with changing the pivot on my clutch pedal.

When I bought my stuff in I had it shipped to a friend in the US he then sent me the parts one part at a time.

We pay duty on anything over $1000 including freight.


January 26th 2013, 05:52
Was yours a stage 1 or 2 Steve?

We get screwed in the UK, anything over about $25. Import duty and local taxes, they are compounded and it also applies to the shipping charges..

Steve C
January 26th 2013, 19:08
Hi Rich

I'm using a stage 1.

What happens if you bring stuff in as baggage? I'm thinking you could buy the parts yourself in California and bring them back.


January 27th 2013, 05:52
You still technically have to pay, but I doubt the tax savings would pay for a flight!

January 30th 2013, 14:02
I ordered my adaptor plate and clutch from KEP, without even asking they valued the package at $100 so the duty was nothing compared to what it could have been.

However as mentioned the previously, my clutch is on or off and heavy inbetween. Fortunatly for me ive got legs like Chris Hoy so I can manage it most of my mates alwasy mention it when test the clutch.

March 8th 2013, 17:11
Bit of an update:
I made up a new bulkhead panel to properly clear the new chargecooler

New stage 1 KEP clutch, this is rated to 550ft lbs torque so fine for my target level of about 450..


The release bearings changed to include a plastic liner, this meant that I needed to buy a new bearing guide tube from Porsche..

While the chargecooler was off again I thought I would take the opportunity to improve the mounting and filling system. Here is a new support bracket using a locost type suspension rubber bushing I had lying around

New filler neck welded to the chargecooler makes the pipework much neater and is obviously much easier to bleed and keep full. The filler neck was decent and came from Mishimoto, most others were pretty flimsy pressed items.

All fitted again, the chargecooler is much better mounted and easier to fill now.

March 8th 2013, 21:54
We need a road test report and video to boot!


March 9th 2013, 07:21
^^^ x2

March 9th 2013, 09:27
Well, I've just been out for a drive, not long as it's pretty wet out. First thing is this clutch is a LOT heavier and shorter, maybe my old one had got weak with age? I can pretty much spin the wheels at most speeds now and it will go to wategate pressure (about 1 bar) no problem so I think I can safely say the clutch is sorted. I stalled it quite a few times to begin with but have got the hang of it now, I may look in to using a smaller bore master cylinder to lighten & lengthen the travels. I've done about 500 miles of running in now so I'll arrange the remap to full boost shortly.. This is going to be an animal when it is fully mapped!!!

March 10th 2013, 03:28
Good on ya Rich,as allway's some great mods and keeping us all informed and inspired. I cant wait to see some vids of this car.:cool::cool::cool:


March 10th 2013, 18:27
Every time I come back and look at your project I am amazed. So very nice! You have inspired me for years. Now if I could only get one of my projects back on the road. Thanks again.

April 24th 2013, 16:28
The mapper was booked up solid for a while but I'm booked in for May 14th, I've done about 1200 miles now and given it an oil change and it's all going very well. As I do I got bored with nothing to do so thought I'd work on the heating system.

A problem I had on a previous kit car was that the heating system was ducted so efficiently with the intake in a high pressure zone that I would always get warm air coming through the system into the car. I couldn't have the fans on with ambiant temperature air as the heater matrix was part of the thermostat bypass flow. This was a particular problem during some heavy summer rain where I needed a good amount of air flow to keep the screens de-misted and my only option was hot heated air which turned the interior into a steam room! The solution is to fit a valve which can bypass the matrix but still enable constant flow, handily Ford fit one to many of their small cars so I bought one.

The valve could be connected up to an on/off switch but a better solution (as well as how it is used in Fords) is to use a low frequency PWM controller, this gives proper temperature control by cycling the valve on and off depending on demand of a rotary switch which I have fitted in the glovebox. Mine came from ebay as a generic part but was modified by the seller to reduce the frequency to something more suitable. The valve connector was a generic mini timer type that was also from ebay.

Finally getting around to fitting the valve in the car after cutting off superfluous brackets, a quick test of the electrics to make sure it was fitted the correct way around and it's in!
A test in the car and I'm extremely happy with how it works, the temperature is easily adjusted and changes surprisingly quickly.

April 25th 2013, 13:23
Very nice mod!!

April 25th 2013, 14:43
Ohhhhh, I like this. Care to share the details of the items used?

I've made a heater bypass and valve using plumbing stuff and a mk1 golf coolant valve. I also used one of my dashboard vent knobs to adjust the coolant valve position but I'm not really happy with things as I don't get full movement out of the valve. This is a much better solution.

April 25th 2013, 17:47
Nothing special Kai, just a Ka/fiesta valve, search for PWM controller on ebay, there are plenty of them (looks similar to this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-3-2A-PWM-Motor-Speed-Control-Controller-Regulator-12V-24V-DC-One-way-/271193787640?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Contr ol_ET&hash=item3f2468ccf8). Ideally I would have fitted the knob on the dash but it would have looked out of place..

April 25th 2013, 21:32
So funny, I bought the same valve a couple of years ago, havn't installed it yet, but I'm glad, as usual, that you did it first because I wouldn't have known about the PWM controller! I was just going to do an on/off thing! Glad to see so much more progress and smooth miles getting on her.


April 27th 2013, 03:03
Thank you very much for that.

I thought that you ment the seller of the ford valve had modified the valve not the pwm controller. My mistake, all purchased now.

July 10th 2013, 15:08
Not a huge update, but I did get a chance to run the bug on the test track at work this week. Only a couple of laps so didn't get up to full speed/acceleration as it's a whole new set of noises to get paranoid about at high speed and with memories of blowing the last engine up doing the same thing last year I was taking it easy and limiting boost with my right foot! Still, I did get a GPS'd 150mph before traffic got in my way. How does that compare to speeds others have run? I'm really intrigued what my top speed would be now, although I would prefer to have some more engine info to make sure it's running right under the conditions, maybe IAT and AFR..

July 10th 2013, 19:29
That's a good clip Rich!!! Was that top up or top down?;) It's time you got a little video action on here. Any tire rub issues ever?


July 10th 2013, 19:59
150 mph! That is crazy, I thought our cars had a huge problem with the front lifting above 100mph

July 11th 2013, 00:02
It looks like the problem was his right foot not lifting... Never thought of that as a problem.

July 11th 2013, 13:15
Top was up as I was a bit nervous how the roof would be at that sort of speed, probably more like a parachute! It actually felt fine, I'm sure my cut down Kamei has a lot to do with it. No tyre rubbing at all.. Like I said, my foot wasn't to the floor to keep boost down a bit, the last thing I wanted was to cause any problems that might risk my trip over to Le Bug Show at Spa-Francorchamps in a few weeks.

I do really want to get some video footage, hopefully the Spa roadtrip will be a good opportunity!

July 12th 2013, 03:56
Good speed Rich! I'm sure the aero mods at the front have a significant effect on lift

July 12th 2013, 04:24
Very beautiful performance with a cabriolet!!
I would not at Spa this year
I hope that we can ride together a next time on German autobahn ;)

July 12th 2013, 16:48
Well done Rich 150 mph is more than impressive and a testament to your build :notworthy:

July 27th 2013, 15:17
As the car is more or less done now I thought I'd post a bit of a summary of the final spec and some finished pictures (still waiting to get a proper photoshoot sorted!). Just need to give it a clean ready for a trip over to Spa next weekend..

oMain body restored with new heater channels, strengtheners, bulkhead, etc etc
oSpare wheel well modified to take main radiator and charge-cooler radiator
oFuel tank extended, baffled and fitted with internal up-rated fuel pump (HRC 310lpm)
oRear end removable on frame, VW bus inspection hatch above engine
oFront wings: 2” wider in fibreglass
oRear wings: 40mm wider in steel with forced cold air intake incorporated into left hand wing
oK&N panel air filter built in to inner wing, with water drain
oLengthened bumper irons with stock bumpers
oRepaint in original colour (Schwartz Metallic)
oGerman Sonnenland roof

oCustom framehorns, torsion housing central section removed
oCustom perimeter frame rails with one-off bead-rolled floors, finished in epoxy mastic 121.
oOBP reverse mounted pedal box with twin brake master cylinders for adjustable bias and hydraulic clutch under false floor
oFront: Kerscher coil-over struts, heavy duty anti-roll bar
oRear: IRS with Protech coil-over dampers and swing axle length torsion bars, 944 anti-roll bar
o19” Porsche Carrera Sport wheels, 10j rear, 8,5j front
oVredestein Ultrac Sessenta tyres, 265/30R19 & 235/35R19
oPorsche 911 (996) brembo brakes front & rear
oBraided hoses, 911 fluid reservoir.
oSpacesaver 996 spare wheel
oRebuilt subaru EJ257 shortblock (2.5l STI), forged supertech pistons, rebuilt V4 sti heads, ARP 11mm head studs, external oil breather catch tank, shortened/extended sump with RCM baffle plate, Garrett SC46 turbo, ported headers with custom 2” crosspipe, 3” bellmouth from turbo back, magnaflow 3" muffler, Nismo 740cc injectors, ESL daughterboard mapped by Bob Rawle, Aeromotive FPR on reversed parallel fuel rails, new-age subaru coilpack conversion. Estimated 400-450bhp, 450ftlbs.
oCustom charge-cooler system with bosch water pump and Pace pre-rad, inlet manifold spacers/insulaters
oCooling system modified to external thermostat with Pace sierra cosworth radiator, fans controlled by ECU
o1989 Porsche 911 ‘G50 shortnose’ transaxle fitted with rebuilt 964 RS LSD (80/20). 930 CVs, aftermarket axles and drive flanges, KEP uprated Porsche stage 1 clutch (550ftlbs)
•Square weave carpets
•Heated Porsche 996 sports seats and seatbelts
•Rear seat modified to clear transmission tunnel
•Dashboard widened to fit early Porsche 924 gauges with additional Stack Oil pressure and turbo pressure gauges. Mini switches.
•Seats and dash re-trimmed in saddle tan leather by Auto-trim, Leicester
•Alpine CDA-X001 head unit, Rainbow component speakers up front in one-off fibreglass foot well enclosures, pioneer rear speakers in kick panels
•One-off heater system built into stock duct system, stock dash controls with t25 fan switch & electronic Ford heater valve









July 27th 2013, 17:25
Beautiful Rich! Incredible build.

July 28th 2013, 04:07
Top to tail still the best one out there Rich!


July 28th 2013, 07:35
Stunning car. Very nice work.

July 28th 2013, 17:27
Flawless mate - what a great build - i've really enjoyed this build thread. You must be chuffed

July 28th 2013, 21:22
:cheers: Very nice!!!!

dave forder
July 30th 2013, 15:29
Now this is a serious car. Well done pal. Now go and have some fun at Spa. :cheers:

September 5th 2013, 17:11
Road trip to Spa was awesome, loads of cars I've never seen before and after seeing other pictures plenty I missed so I'll definitely be back! Was great to get a chance to drive around the track and got a top 20 award which finished off a top weekend :)


I also finally got the photoshoot for Volksworld done with some strange attachments, should be some good action shots and I can't wait to see them (http://www.stevehallphotography.net).

After the trip to Spa, the race style compact boots finally gave up with dealing with the CV angle. They are mainly designed for race cars and are basically an inverted cone with little give so not surprising really. They were necessary to clear the coil-over springs. This picture is from underneath with the car on a 2 post lift and the suspension at full rebound so definitely not the worst position, the damper swings closer to the axle at ride height.


The long term fix was always to relocate the coil-over. I had a spare pair of trailing arms from a 944, these are identical to the beetle ones with the exception of some internal strengthening.


I made up new curved section to take a scallop out of the arm and also reweld the lower damper mount about 15mm further forwards.


All back together ready for clean up and paint.


Better view showing the additional clearance made.


As before this is with the suspension in full droop but now with a nice big silicone off road style CV boot that is designed for much more angularity than I will subject it to. At ride height I can get a finger between the spring and boot so clearance is no longer an issue. While I was at it I also fitted the 944 spring plates with the built in capability of a camber bolt anti-roll bar fitting to set the camber, it is also designed to take a toe adjustment tool. I had to lose the ride height adjustment due to clearance problems with the wheel but with the adjustable coil-overs this really isn't an issue for me...


September 6th 2013, 15:06
Great fix! I'm not looking forward to all the after built fixes coming my way either...


September 6th 2013, 16:05
lol, let's face it, we'd get bored it if all went perfectly!

September 7th 2013, 11:40
Hey Ricola! I didnīt know that was your car! I would have stopped and had a chat! Really nicely done! The interior is really top notch!! Great fix on the trailing arm too!

September 7th 2013, 12:44
Hay, are you using torsion bars and coil over springs. I see many are using the 944 trailing arms, with coil over springs. Is there a reason why you choose not to remove the torsion bars, if you are using both. I know many are of the opinion that since the 911 use the torsion bars that's the hot ticket. However the sway bars, coil over springs application should work equally well if not better.

September 7th 2013, 14:08
The shock towers weren't designed to take the whole loading of the rear end and I have heard of them braking before so I use both. Using torsion bars as well helps share the spring loading in the chassis and means you can use smaller diameter springs.

September 7th 2013, 15:40
The shock towers weren't designed to take the whole loading of the rear end and I have heard of them braking before so I use both. Using torsion bars as well helps share the spring loading in the chassis and means you can use smaller diameter springs.


September 8th 2013, 10:21
You chose to use the irs trailing arm, is there an advantage using the aluminum 944 trailing arms. The 944 brakes fit the normal irs's with ease. Also the 944 aluminum trailing seems to not be able to take the load by themselves either. Yes I do recall that the 944 are 25mm wider.

September 8th 2013, 12:02
The shock mount on the steel arm is definitely better for higher loads being double shear. No real weight difference. I wanted the narrowest track possible. IIRC there are 2 or 3 different aluminium arm types/widths, the only reason I'd go Al is if I wanted a wider track which avoids use of spacers and gives less axle angles as they are longer.

September 9th 2013, 02:39
lol, let's face it, we'd get bored it if all went perfectly!

You are not wrong, but I could use a break with 2 big projects!!!


December 17th 2013, 02:47
The Volksworld Magazine dropped through the door yesterday and it's great to see this car featured,a well deserved entry into the mag.This is great exposure for the GL scene and it make's people to look at these later bugs rather than the same old copy cat cal lookers.Congratulations Ricola,on a brilliant and massively inspirational build.:cool::cool::cool::cool:

December 17th 2013, 03:15
Cheers Graham!

December 17th 2013, 07:27
Good work, I will go looking for that VolksWorld... it might take a month or three to arrive Down Under

December 17th 2013, 07:31
You can do a digital version download if that's your kind of thing. I prefer to have the paper copy though...

December 17th 2013, 12:13
Its also a good idea to re route the rear caliper brake pipes to under the a arm, or at least to the rear of the a arm upper seam, its a perfect scissor crush job in the stock position, i see them crushed on a regular basis, heavy engines cycle through the suspension travel range more and its more of a problem on really low cars, but they can be crushed on not so low cars with just cut down bump stops, i replace many in the 'shop and re route them as required.

July 7th 2014, 17:54
Nothing new on the bug, it just gets driven with no issues! All I've done is to wire up the brake warning light in the multigauge to come on with the radiator fan as I can't hear it with the engine running!

My main news is that I sold my 996 Carrera 2 and bought this as my new daily:



The bug is still quicker in a straight line until aero effects come in but this thing certainly shifts around the twisty bits!

July 8th 2014, 02:31
Must be fun/interesting the first time you compared the turbo bug to the porsche turbo after more then just one test drive :-)

Nice car, though the color of the P is a bit boring though...

July 8th 2014, 12:04
I know what you mean Wally, but the last thing you want is to stand out in traffic in something this fast!

August 4th 2014, 07:20
I finally got to meet Richard at bugshow, his Convertible is just awesome :eek::eek:



August 4th 2014, 12:28
Yes,the convertible is awesome! That Karmann is fantastic also!

August 6th 2014, 21:30
That one picture shows 2 of the 4 most amazing Vdubs I know of! Nice work on the Turbo P car!


October 27th 2014, 05:28
Time for a mini project! A while back during the MOT test I was slightly concerned with how much the wheels moved about when the tester spread the front axle on the pads. Having seen a few designs of A arms at Spa and online on the boxergasse forum I've decided to give it a go myself! I wanted to do it as a completely bolt on swap. Part of this change is to de-couple the stock anti-roll bar from the geometry so this will be spaced down underneath the A arm. I've seen people put it above but my radiator is in the way and I have plenty of ground clearance.
The inner spherical joint will be M10 and the forward tension link section will be M14, I will also be using sealed boots to keep them weather tight. At the spindle I'm using the original design ball joint. Some people re-position the lower axis as they run very low.

Before I took the stock suspension off, I put the car on stands and with the steering dead ahead and a vertical level marked up the position to the floor. This is obviously just to get the geometry about right, I can fine tune it afterwards.

The key part to the swap is creating a forward bracket, this aluminium block spaces the anti-roll bar downwards with the stock saddle clamp and gives plenty of meat to mount the forward joint.

The block fitted, not how it is fitted to the chassis form. My mate, Seb, machined up some tube end fittings for it.

The first lateral link tacked together

and fitted to the car, now to align the hub and measure up for the tension link. The last bit will be to work out how to connect the anti-roll bar.

Steve C
October 27th 2014, 07:47
Inspiring thoughts & work as usual

October 27th 2014, 12:53
It's gunna be cool!

November 1st 2014, 13:25
Tension link tacked in at nominal geometry position. Some people will fit a clevis type joint to the lateral part but I only wanted minimal adjustment. Welded will give better stiffness.

I trawled ebay for a nice short anti-roll bar that I thought I could adapt and ended up with this from a Mk2 Ford Mondeo, less than Ģ5 delivered for the pair! It was a case of making up some fairly simple adapters to bolt on to the standard 1303 anti-roll bar ends.

Brackets to weld on to the new A arms

Finished A arm ready for paint

Finished 'kit' ready to be fitted! Note I did machine down the blocks some more compared to earlier pictures to maintain the stock pick up position heights and maximise ground clearance.

Ball joint pressed in and rod ends adjusted with their rubber boots to give them a bit more life

All done!

Closer view of one side..

So, the verdict: in summary well worth it! The front end feels so much more alive and communicative but NVH is hardly affected at all. The tyres seem to work a lot better as they are not moving around so much and the steering is even a bit lighter too. Even on motorways you can feel what's going on with the most subtle of movements. Overall it just gives so much more confidence in what the car i doing and that means a lot!

For anybody else that wants to try something similar this is what I used:

Inner joints: M10 male rod ends with high misalignment spacers

Forward joints: M14 rod ends with standard misalignment spacer, additional 18mm spacer inboard

Stock lower strut ball joints

1 1/2" diameter 0.1" wall thickness CDS tubing

Mk 2 Ford Mondeo/Cougar rear anti-roll bar links

If you can't work out the rest then frankly you probably shouldn't be trying to copy it!!

November 1st 2014, 15:02
Impressive work, as always! Very nice.

November 1st 2014, 16:34
impressive work, as always! Very nice.


November 1st 2014, 17:03
Very nice as always. Thanks for sharing, I may just have to do it!

November 2nd 2014, 02:03
This may sound a little anticlimactic, but I wanted to throw a bit of caution towards an awesome design. Where the 2 major control arm tubes meet and are welded I'd like to see some sort of gusset. These old super bodies move more than we think, so I can imagine a weld fatigue occurring at that point. Years ago while doing a track event at Laguna Seca I witnessed a prototype lower control arm fail on a S4 and it wasn't pretty. Just imagine sudden failure of that weld joint. Some sort of gusset would either prevent that or at least provide a preview. I love the concept, especially the sway bar!


November 2nd 2014, 04:41
Hi Jason,
Why would movement of the body put any stress on that joint? These are pretty big diameter tubes and aren't in any stress in the nominal position, I actually want a 'bit' of give to allow the adjustment at the rod ends but that is only minor. I was initially thinking of adding some extra bars but they are really strong as they are, I will monitor their condition though. In fact in my head I was thinking some sort of gusset would double up as the drop link bracket. The only bit that I'm not 100% happy with is the single shear of the front rod end and that's why I went up to M14, ideally that would be double shear and now I have the geometry and a better idea of the package that might be something I re-visit.


November 2nd 2014, 14:34
On a hard lateral load with braking the 'Y' would want to spread, do that a few times and a crack starts on the inside? I am not an engineer, but I think like one, and I tend to err on the overkill side. On a rear wheel I wouldn't be as concerned, but on a front you are along for the ride if something failed. I think if you check it often it will give you plenty of warning before it let go, unlike aluminum.


August 19th 2015, 08:06
Richard convertible is enjoyable
Thanks for the ride



December 17th 2017, 01:31
Any updates to your build? Just checking, as the site was offline, etc!

December 17th 2017, 10:16
The bug is being boringly reliable! I've fitted a better header and modified the downpipe with a splitter to separate out the wastegate, also an extra muffler to make it a bit quieter. I also fitted a wide band lambda and went on mapping course so may have a bit of a play in the future.

For now I've updated my daily driver to a Tesla P100D which is ridiculously fast!!!

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21430219_10155340203696141_8836268056473241981_n.j pg?oh=b447c183ed58860e52a7ea2453774d95&oe=5ABA73F3

Thinking of a new project with Tesla powertrain now...

December 27th 2017, 01:59
Cut the body off the P100D and stick a splitscreen barn door on top, you know it makes sense

December 27th 2017, 02:00
P100D Are you sure Rich.... want face here, 0-60 in 2.4 seconds

December 27th 2017, 08:57
Some people have got down to 2.28s...

Best of both worlds, stupid performance and piddly running costs (not counting depreciation!!)

P100D Are you sure Rich.... want face here, 0-60 in 2.4 seconds

December 28th 2017, 06:03
Bonkers quick :D:D

August 21st 2018, 21:13
Hey Rich hope all is well with yourself.

Just spotted this and thought of you.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLPoEcxBaJo


August 22nd 2018, 02:57
Hi Graham,
Yes, I’ve been following their build closely!

Recently got back from Spa with a boringly reliable drive ���� Now on a Tesla road trip down to Sicily!

How’s progress with your bug?

August 23rd 2018, 15:53
Hey Rich
I really wanted to get to Spa this year with my car but it wasn't going to happen. The car was progressing but its stalled again, mainly due to us moving abroad, hoping to get back at it Sept/Oct, its not far off now I HOPE.

I am just waiting for your next build thread with your T25 Syncro on the drive and the Tesla up on axle stands :D

September 2nd 2018, 13:07
T25s really aren't my thing but never say never..