Brake question, is it that easy?

[1303Si]

Am i right that these should be pretty much bolt on?
944 brake conversion

Car:
1303s -73

Rear:
Early (85.5 and earlier) removable backing plate, hub, e-brake parts.
85 & 86 Turbo rotor or Boxster S rotor or 993 rotor (299x24). 993 and turbo rotors need 3mm shim to center caliper.
4 piston brembo calipers from turbos or S2's?

Front:
Early 944 NA spindles, may need some machining for speedo cable
The stock 1303 strut
Special lower ball joints (17mm), biggest work there?
Reversing tie rod mountings
Hubs from Late NA (87-89) or Middle T (87-88) or Late T (89-91) AND 88 Turbo S
4 piston calipers from Early 944T (85?-86) or Middle T (87-88) and 89-91 S2 or Late T (89-91) AND 88 Turbo S
Rotors from Middle T (87-88) and 89-91 S2 (299x28)
what's the best way to get camber change near normal

does caliper brackets match to 4 piston calipers? or anything be as bolt on as i have imagined on my little mind?

Thank you already for answers

[evilC]

"Pretty much bolt on" is a fair description but it will need some adjustments:

Rear

Use the 944 trailing arm and brake components as everything then fits without having to create brackets for mounting the caliper. The 944 spring plate also has a useful camber adjustment.
The handbrake cables (e-brake) will require the ends modifying by buying the matching swan necks or brazing the 944 connectors onto the VW cable. Using the 944T calipers and discs will mean using 16"+ wheel rims as the 15" won't clear without big spacers. I used 928S4 calipers on ours. Also, use '97 BMW 525 brake shoes with minor mods as they are 1/2 the price of the Porsche ones.

Front
Easiest way is to purchase 944 complete front struts as they are bolt on without any mods to the spindles/bearings/hubs. Use early 944 spindles as the LH one is drilled of the speedo cable. The steering arms will then require standard bump steer bushes (from a ball joint bug but check the taper) so the trackrod end enters from the top, lengthen the track rods. Use the special Kersher lower ball joints or do as I did - fabricate a new track control arm with the standard 944 ball joint at the end as it makes replacement a simple bolt on operation. With a fabricated TCA it will be useful to lengthen it as the adjustment on the 944 strut and the 1303 TCA gives a maximum of 1 1/2deg of neg camber. Check the piston sizes of the front and rear calipers to maintain a 50/50 brake bias. You may need the 944 stepped master cylinder to help in this respect. The 944 struts will lower the front end by a small amount but don't use the 944 springs or dampers as they will be too stiff. The 1303 ones will fit the 944 legs, besides the 944 legs are thicker.

Clive

[1303Si]

Ok.

Could someone also tell me what spindles and trailing arm/backing plates have right mounting for 4 pot calipers

[evilC]

The mounting holes are the same for the four pot/single pot 944 calipers and the rear mounting holes on a 944 trailing arm are the same for single pot/944T/928S4 calipers

[1303Si]

OK
So 4 pot will bolt on to early spindles with speedo hole.?

When i have the money i guess i will buy following 944 parts:

Front:
Early NA spindles with struts.
Hubs and rotors from middle turbo (because rotor attaches on the outer surface on hub).

Rear:
Just early NA backing plate/caliper bracket (i have understand that doesn't wider that much), e-brake (shoes from bmw), hubs.
86T/993/Boxster S rotor.

Calipers from Turbo.
i guess what year those from doesn't matter?

May fabricate a new tca(perhaps adjustable).
Bump steer bushes.

[evilC]

You might find it convenient and cheap to purchase the whole suspension and brakes from an early 944 en bloc (or indeed a 924S/944 whole car and sell the rest on) rather than individual parts. Even a 944T could be a reasonable purchase. If early parts then upgrade to Turbo bits. You will probably be purchasing new discs and pads shoes but the turbo stuff fits the N/A supension. I went for the 928S4 rear calipers because the market for them is less than for 944/911 et sec parts (I did mate them to 944 N/A discs but that is another story)
At the worst you could purchase late model 944/968 suspension and then drill the spindles to suit or even rely on abs signals off the front wheels for a speedo connection. The options are many and varied and very much depend on what you can get on the second hand market and at what price. My spec was:

924S full suspension and brakes - £65
928S4 rear calipers - £110
944 15mm rear anti-roll bar - £25
Brand new discs/pads/suspension bushes/dampers/springs - all consumable items that ought not to be transferred. The rear 23.5mm torsion bar and alloy trailing arm and adjustable spring plate was used off the 924S

(I have front single pots but also 944T calipers awaiting rebuild - £135)

Clive

[1303Si]

After little web surfing i have understood that i should rather buy Turbo spindle and drill a hole for speedo cable, because caliper mounting in front is 94mm for 4 pot (turbo/S2) and 76mm for NA.

[Blizzard]

Hello I am new here on GL.net and I just opened a topic myself in Projectbuilds that shows my personal solution to the problem how to fit late S2 or Turbo disks, hubs and callipers to a 944 NA Spindle.

http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10549

You can not use the late spindle in combination with the standard 74> super strut. The 2 mounting hole's do not line up with the hole's in the strut and the part of the spindle that goes between the 2 brackets of the strut is to thin.

So save youre money on drilling the late spindle for a speedo cable, buy a set of 944 NA spindles and let someone machine the 2 bearing bushes needed to use the late turbo hub, the bushing to mount the steeringrod on top of the spindle and the bracket to mount the caliper to the spindle.