View Full Version : Bugged Build Thread

October 21st 2010, 22:03
Hello online Beetle community!!

My name is Zach, I live in Tempe, AZ and I purchased my 1974 Super Beetle in July of 2009. This is my first car project undertaking and I wanted something affordable and simple enough for me to learn on. I hear many novice car enthusiasts asking whether or not they can undertake this or that, and hopefully my build will show them the reality of building a beetle, affordable techniques, and the complications they will likely face. I had a lot of ideas in the beginning and it is funny how they have transformed from dream to reality. At first reading every page you can find on a given topic seems comprehensive, but you quickly learn there is more to do then a "how-to" usually suggests. A big part of starting a build is realizing the cost. It is hard to see sometimes where the money will go, and it is easy to think you can get by with a certain budget; be prepared to spend more than you originally expect; if you want to do it right. You think you just need to replace this or that, but in general everything usually costs more than you think and takes twice as long! :rolleyes:

Here is my 1303 when I first got her:

I knew I wanted to put a lot of power into this guy, so I started with building up a platform for it. If I can't turn and stop, then I probably shouldn't go really really really fast... really.:p Also, I figured starting with these components had a lower learning curve then engine building, so I started by replacing the suspension and steering components thanks to the help of topline parts. With intentions of taking it to autocross events and track days, I want it fun but elegant.

Replacing the suspension and steering was not too difficult, and a simple set of tools can get you far.
Here are the results of my work! I think it looks pretty sweet.

I have more pictures somewhere of the steering rack and other bushings and assorted steering stuff I replaced... I'll have to find them.

After all that was finished, the next step was to order the wheels. I was torn between Cal and Germanlook at the time, and I ordered a set of Centerline wheels in a Chevy bolt pattern and had my rotors accordingly drilled. Tracking down a machinist and many problems from Centerline caused 2-3 months to idle by with no wheels.
Here are my Centerline wheels:
15x8 in back and 15x7 up front, these guys have a nice stepped lip. They remind me a bit of phone dials, but are also very different. Anyway, with 225's in back, the meaty tire looks deliciously fast. Not to mention that the wheels weigh about 14lbs a piece, they should be pretty nice on the track.
Ok, well I'm much further ahead, but I will update soon... posting pictures is not as much fun as sawing out your floors!
I'll leave you with this though.

I hope you like what I've started, and am looking forward to the help you guys will give me. Can't wait to fit the 2366 and the 901!!!

October 21st 2010, 23:45
:oOh man... I put this in the wrong spot... can i get a moderator over here...:o

October 22nd 2010, 07:53
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1113/5103312855_87a84d9a50.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7770331@N07/5103312855/)

Hi, your project looks very nice. Will the 8 inch tires fit within the rear fenders? Creative Car Craft sell three inch fiber glass fenders, that would set your rear centerline off real nice

On my project, which I just can't seem to do anything with. I am using 10 cookies cutters with the three inch fiber glass fenders. It also give it a cool look. Those tires will throw debree on your fender and do damage to your paint job.

October 24th 2010, 00:16
Yeah, I will get wider fenders for the back... probably the creative car craft ones. In the front I may get some fender work done. Just to stretch em out a lil bit. I have some odd offsets going on the wheels, and have added considerable track in the rear and the front. I know there are adverse effects of doing this but no turning back now. It should be really stable accelerating. But I see plenty of bugs with a lot of track added, especially the ones sporting the flared kafer cup fenders.

October 27th 2010, 15:06
Ok! Time for a short procrastination break from my programming homework and a small update. I have both pans cut out of the car and the new right pan is ready to go in, and the left is not far behind. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up their $15 air hammer with assorted chisels, for the removal of the spot welds on the frame. It worked like a charm! I found it easiest to start mid way, like on the rear corner, get under the flap and hammer it upwards. This way, you have a clear shot at the spot welds, whereas sometimes if just trying to run along the lip, you end up shearing off the metal and have to grind it off. Sharpening the chisel also helps tremendously when slipping into those tight, tricky spots. Hopefully I can get these pans welded in this weekend. :D

Anyone have any cleaning suggestions? I spent some time cleaning off the torsion tubes/frame horn area with some concoction my roommate mixed up... I can't wheel the frame out to pressure wash it because my body is in the way and an engineless Camaro behind that.

Also, I need to take my transmission out soon so I can start fitting the 901. I'm a bit worried about getting this bad boy in, but I'll ask about that when I can get some reference pictures up. Where do you guys get your 12 point bits to remove the cv's?

October 27th 2010, 17:57
I've had good luck with Oil Eater from Costco, but it's not always available so call ahead if you want to get some. I spray, wait, spray, scrub, spray, scrub, then rinse and see what I have. Depends a lot weather the gunk is buildup of dirt/oil or you have a rusty surface.


October 30th 2010, 02:47
Drilled 1/4 inch holes spaced about every inch in the pans today. Didn't think I was going to start welding, but I got anxious. Everything started off pretty well, until I heard the welds popping off as they cooled... The frame ledge is twice as thick as the pan itself, so when I thought the pan was welding in, I was basically just filling in the holes and taking my chances with it making a deep weld. I ended up just putting a bunch of stitch welds also, which worked much more easily... I think on the left side of the pan, I'm going to skip the drilling and just stitch weld the thing in... Might just try to do the entire side.

October 30th 2010, 06:50
Nice looking project. You should be able to find the "triple square" bit to remove the CV bolts at any VW parts house or in a small set at an auto parts house. Lots of info on fitting the 901 can be found here if you do a search.

November 1st 2010, 15:32
Hey, another question here for the future. when mating the transmission mounts and the 911 trans, can I grind out a groove in the transmission mounts so the bolt bumps on the bell housing have clearance? Or do I have to grind down the bumps themselves... Sorry if the description is vague.

Basically can you grind on a transmission mount? How about a urethane one?

November 1st 2010, 22:07

Cheap plug, but here is one approach.. http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?p=76894#post76894

The thread does have some good info to help you plan your approach..

November 2nd 2010, 01:54

I have been through that thread several times now. I actually already have your rear mount, although according to that thread it appears I have the 914 style mount whilst I have a 71 901/911 transmission.

November 2nd 2010, 02:09
Slide 40 Bug@5-Speed Rear Gearbox Support (Cont)

The last order of business is to attach everything to the bell housing with the manufactured supplied bolts/nuts or grade-8 or better hardware[/QUOTE]

here it looks like you may have grinded down the trans mounts...?:confused:
Or is this before you grinded down the bellhousing?

November 2nd 2010, 17:48
You really need to move this to the build thread up top!


November 3rd 2010, 18:24
Go into the Project Builds section and start a new thread called Bugged Build and then cut and paste the pictures you've started here onto there. Unless somehow you are locked out?


November 4th 2010, 11:05
Awesome! Thanks Jason!

November 12th 2010, 00:03
I finally looked up the VIN to my 911 transmission... turns out i have a 1969-1970 911 transmission from a porsche 911E.

R&P ---- 7:31 (4.429)
1st ----- 11:34 (3.091)
2nd----- 18:32 (1.778)
3rd ----- 23:28 (1.217)
4rd ----- 27:25 (0.9259)
5th ----- 29:22 (0.7586)

What do I have going here? I don't really know what to make of these gear ratios. Could someone help me out?

Also, I drained the gear oil from it a few days ago and checked out the magnetic drain plug, it had a good amount of gunky black oil stuff, but only one or two little metal flakes. The transmission had been stored for probably 20 years in a garage. Can anyone give me an estimate of what condition you think it may be in?

Also, the transmission has the eyelet for the clutch cable, and Alex from Bug@5speed says that I need to cut the eyelet off and then plug it with an automotive plug. Is this what everyone is doing? Man, I really don't want to cut a hole in the side of this transmission.:(

November 12th 2010, 00:21
The back half from intermediate plate to bell housing are the same for 914 family and the late 901 box,
Except for material mag bs alu. Depending on Year

The bellhousing has two flat spot where the trans mount gets bolted on.

No need to grind flat just drill four holes for your mounts and attach this to the metal traverse

If I don't make sense email me and we can set up phone con


November 21st 2010, 01:12
Speedo gear is out, reverse shaft transferred, andshort nose cone is basically on... set the tranny on the frame horns... Am I going to have to take a contoured cut out of the frame horns for the cv flanges to fit? I see some people just trimming the horns and others making considerable modification to the horns. Also, the bowden cable eyelet is definately interfering with the frame horns as well. this will need to be cut off... It needs to be plugged afterwards or can I just trim it off?

December 12th 2010, 01:48
What is the best way to remove the factory tar board?


Got some work done on the pan... I originally wasn't going to POR15 the panhead and center tunnel, but some stripper found its way over there anyway.
I used the POR15 products, marine clean and metal ready.
Metal ready is supposed to neutralize the rust and I can just POR15 over it.

Would it be better to grind the rust off?

December 12th 2010, 06:03
With POR, the coarser the surface the better, too smooth and it peels off. As long as the rust is not flaking and is just surface then I'd leave it as that gives the best key.

December 12th 2010, 23:56
The tar board material comes off easy with a heat gun and scraper. ;)

December 15th 2010, 20:11
Thanks... Tar board is now removed.

I'm starting prepping the trans for install and have a few questions.

1) How are you dealing with the bowden tube eyelet on the differential side plate? I have the bug@5speed adapter plate, but it requires cutting the eyelet off and plugging the resulting hole off. Any ways around cutting the eyelet off?
2) I don't see why cutting the eyelet off will result in a hole? Isn't it solid metal beneath the eyelet?

December 15th 2010, 20:23
I'm going to start getting the trans ready for installation now, but I have some concerns:

1) Side plate bowden eyelet
-I have the bug@5speed adapter plate, but it apparently requires removal of the eyelet which results in a hole in your side plate. I don't see why cutting the eyelet off yields a hole through the plate, is the eyelet not solid aluminum? Any other good bowden cable/bracket routing methods out there?

December 16th 2010, 11:10

Drop me a line to my email, seems we have some confusion..

Also email me some pics so I know exactly what we will be discussing

Missed this tread, during my wife's hospitol visit..


December 25th 2010, 20:08
I'm thinking about buying these, but want to make sure they are the right size.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-944-Turbo-S-S2-Half-Shafts-Rear-Axles-CV-Joints-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem230878c36fQQitemZ15046 5987439QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

I have the bug@5speed flanges and will locate some 944 stub axles. Anything wrong with this set up? any suggestions? Do these look like they are in good condition? I was also going to go check out this big recyclery to find my 944 parts.

January 4th 2011, 14:32
I'm trying to find that page that describes all the differences between cv's, stub axles, and flanges again. I seemingly lost it, can someone help me?

January 4th 2011, 22:50

on the left side of screen has CV joints, axles, ans stub axles. Click on the one you want to view. ;)

January 5th 2011, 03:00
merci beaucoup! I bought my axles from a local porsche recyclery. Got both stub axles, inner and outer cv's, and half shafts today, in great condition for $200. I thought it was a pretty decent deal, and they come with a 4 month warranty. Yay progress!! Now to finish that damn pan!

February 5th 2011, 18:28
Any suggestions on which trans mounts to use? I have heard the OEM are stronger, but the urethane ones have the cutout which would require much less grinding. I feel a bit uncomfortable grinding off the extra material around the engine bolt holes.

Also, has anyone dealt with a trans with this tab on it? What was it originally used for? Suggestions on removal?



January 21st 2012, 23:18
Ok... wow it has been almost a year since the last time i posted on here... crap. I think I'd rather post pics, and you can just ask me about them if you want to.

I am getting ready to disassemble all everything in order to have the chassis blasted and powdercoated. I imagine I need to get some cork plugs to plug all the holes I don't want filled with powdercoat. I am going to remove the torsion bars and the torsion beam face plate. How should I go about sealing the inside of the torsion beam? Any tips would be awesome.






My Daily :cool:


My Doggy :p


Hopefully once the chassis is powder coated, I will begin assembling the car. I am moving in 4 months and I need to at least have the vast majority of the car bolted together so I can move it onto a tow truck. Let me know what you think.

January 21st 2012, 23:53
The company doing the blasting doing the coating too?

January 22nd 2012, 13:30
Yes, I was quoted about 350 bucks to blast and powder coat it. Why?

January 23rd 2012, 22:13
They should have the propper masking materials to protect what you do not want filled with blast media or powder coating material. Mark the areas to be protected. The best way is to be there when they get ready to blast and coat to show them what you want. Main area is the torsion housing of course.

January 26th 2012, 14:07
So I am hopefully going to drop off the chassis, trailing arms, outer torsion plate, and some random bits at the powdercoaters tomorrow or Saturday. What color should I go with?!! Silver? Black? Something dope?? GOLD?!

After that I'm going to get ready to put the body back on. Any things I should remember to do before I put the body on? The body to pan seal obviously. Run the brake lines in the rear? I shouldn't have any clearance problems with the transmission.

I want to put on a Kafer cup brace. Where should I source this in America? Should I install before the body is on?


January 26th 2012, 14:30
Lanner at vdubengineering has the best Kafer cup brace kit I have used. It is a pain but I lie to put them in after the body, engine/trans are installed so you can work around ant clearance issues.

January 26th 2012, 16:49
Interesting, I don't see it on the website.

January 26th 2012, 16:54
what color is the body going to be any akcents ?

Ya Call Lanner his Kafer Bars ROCK..


January 26th 2012, 17:41
I think the body is going to be red for a while at least. Maybe going to paint it one day to a silver, gunmetal, or black color.

January 27th 2012, 01:51
it would Look Good in Gunmetal even with the red on top... and then when you do paint it it will Still match.

here's his # it's best


February 19th 2012, 00:46
The chassis is at the powdercoaters, and I should get it back late this week. In the meantime I have been taking apart the body even more. I stripped out the wiring harness as I'm going to be replacing it anyway. Too many random wires going who knows where.

Still contemplating how I am going to seal this off. May grind a bit off and weld/JBweld a circular ring to fit a boot of some sort.

Made this nice little bracket to seal up the holes I cut to move the bowden tube and accelerator tube.

I noticed this crack under the gas tank, I am pretty sure it is just the old sealant that is cracked... I don't think it is structurally compromised. What do you think?


Making car noises.

I made a cart to roll the body around on while im getting it ready to put back on the chassis. I can adjust the height with pins.


February 19th 2012, 01:53
I used a balljoint boot for mine.



March 16th 2012, 01:33
Got the chassis back from strippers/powdercoaters and it looks really nice. They plugged up all the threaded holes and the torsion housing so I don't need to tap anything or grind any powdercoat away. Getting ready to get the seals glued on and the holes punched in em.


So I wanted to see how bad that bubbling paint really was... I kind of wish I hadn't. Stuck an exacto knife into the rust. I've decided I'm going to have the entire body media blasted. There is a local company that specializes in blasting bodies using a copper shot medium. I'm dreading finding out the magnitude of decay on this body. Heater channels and lower half seems solid, but who knows. Any tips or links to rust repair that anyone can recommend would be great. There aren't panels for the section right below the rear window, so I'm leaning towards neutralizing the rust with a chemical, grinding the majority of it away and then repairing it with the correct type of filler... not just bondo everything. Large rust spots will be cut out and replaced with sheet metal. I'm hoping it is only small holes that need patching.


So, this motor was originally set up with the FAT shroud. The breather tower was machined down accordingly. I am planning on running DTM V2 cooling system. I am wondering if I am going to run into problems because the tower was machined? Since I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a cooling system, I wanna ask. Should I go with the DTM? I know the numbers say so, but a lot of people on here still run the 911 shroud. Being in the states, I don't really have access to the Rolf shroud. Seemingly the only good aspect of a 911 shroud (Sharpbuilt, FAT, Bergmann, etc) is that they look cool. This just doesn't justify it to me... but maybe someone else can shed some other perspective.


Just a pic of the inside, fairly clean and rust free.

thinking about all this body work, I have found some inspiration and settled upon a paint color. This car is gorgeous.

Steve C
March 16th 2012, 03:10

Not sure about where you are, but down here most earlier 12 volt style bugs don't rust in the lower window area, you might be able to find a clean piece of body metal from a damaged body.

The window size changed in 72 but it got bigger on the top.


March 16th 2012, 08:07
Your breather tower on the engine looks ok for a DTM. You will have to drill holes for the alternator stand mount and cut off the lug that that bolt is sticking thru so it will clear the apron of the car when you install the engine.

March 16th 2012, 14:35
NO_H20, I got off the phone with RAT enterprises and told them about my breather tower situation. They told me that in order to make the DTM work, I would have to machine a block to regain the height that was machined off. He said that Jake did this once, and vowed to never do it again. Dean, the guy I spoke with did not see the picture of the breather tower so perhaps he envisioned a more severe machining of the tower? I do have access to a machine shop and a 5 axis cnc if needed, but at this point I am a bit fed up with the minuscule details that I need to accomplish to get this damn thing working.

Locally, a shop who does a lot of type 4 conversions has told me they have had success with the bergmann unit. One mechanic in particular told me that he has seen consistent and close CHT between 1&3 and 2&4 with 4 temperature transducers. I'm so torn because I read on here that the bergmann unit is crap and I'll freeze 1&3 and roast 2&4. Then locally they tell me it will work fine, and under full load he never saw the heads rise above 320. Is this really hot, I know Jake considered 300 to be roasting, but I am in the desert, Arizona.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

March 17th 2012, 15:07
NO_H20, can you give me a definitive yes or no on the DTM working with my breather tower? Sorry I'm obsessive compulsive and start twitching when answers are left open ended!:confused:

March 17th 2012, 18:07
Your tower looks fine. A FAT shroud does lot require the machining that other 911 shrouds do. Zen went from a Fat 911 shroud to a DTM with no issues. Hell Jake's guys did it. No shims or machining required.
You will have to cut the lug off that the long bolt is sticking thru in you picture. It will hang on the apron when you try to install the engine. You will also have to drill the dimples that the stock breather bail went in. They will then take the bolts (horizontal) that secure and adjust the mounting block inside the breather tower for the DTM alternator stand blots (vertical under alternator).

March 17th 2012, 21:11
You revived my dreams! thanks! Is that a carbon fiber shroud? Looks really clean with that DTM breather box.

My breather tower already has horizontal bolts drilled into it... Hard to see, but there is a hole where the red crap is and another on the other side.


March 18th 2012, 09:59
No that is a fiberglass V2 DTM. It has a paint treatment that that floats on water, then the shroud was dipped in it.

July 3rd 2012, 21:19
Alright, I've been making some big moves in the past couple months. Graduated from engineering school, got a sweet job as a process engineer at a medical device company, moved up north into a new house, and...

I worked on my bug.

Took the body to get media blasted, came out nice. I put a cap on how much I wanted to spend, so certain areas weren't stripped. In hindsight it would have saved me a lot of time from cleaning had I just blasted the whole damn thing. I think when you begin a project, you are more cost focused and as you get tired of scraping, brushing, scrubbing, and cleaning you begin to spend more to spend less time.

I'll cut to the chase.












As I mentioned before, I moved up to Northern Arizona and the body shop that I did all my work in is in Phoenix so the body shop owner sent me pictures from his phone so the quality isn't that great. I'll post better pictures when I go down to get it. Essentially, I sprayed all the primer, did all the blocking, hammering, welding, and body work. I ended up letting the owner of the shop spray base and clear for me. I spent so much time blocking that I didn't want to mess it up in the last step.






Wanting to transport this about 150 miles north. Contemplating Uhaul or paying someone to freight it or throw it on a trailer. Any ideas?

July 5th 2012, 12:21
Nice color, that's going to be a great GL!

July 5th 2012, 13:55
I agree with Gerrelt! That is some awesome work you have done!

July 5th 2012, 14:39
Looks very nice. I would drop it onto a pan secure all the parts with every other bolt so it does not get racked, use towels so the doors, hood, etc. don't rub, push it up on a trailer and drag it home.

July 6th 2012, 14:26
+1 on the color, that will look great in the sun. I'm with Dave, if you can get it on a pan to secure it and make it a roller, transport might be easier. You also wont have to worry about the body springing and putting cracks in the paint.

July 6th 2012, 22:36
Thanks for the thumbs up guys!

As far as assembling the car into a rolling state, it won't be possible. When I moved, I had the movers pack all my parts and bring them up to my new house to simplify the move. I get what you mean by bolting the body parts on, but hopefully I can secure them well enough. I'll need a lot of blankets and foam wrap.

The pan is still at my old place and I am planning on putting the body on the pan inside the Uhaul, maybe put a few of the pan bolts in. I think I'm going to play it by ear and bring a few friends along to make the lifting easy. Wish me luck, I am doing it tomorrow. Taking a shuttle south to PHX, renting a Uhaul, then driving back up.

July 10th 2012, 01:04
https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/v/t1.0-9/487254_3644964555595_1706519831_n.jpg?oh=500a953d9 b579744f928645ff736fc23&oe=5545B8C2

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/v/t1.0-9/555791_3644964195586_1347730512_n.jpg?oh=785954d1d 974aa43ccaedc034ec6ebd1&oe=55437A2C

https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/v/t1.0-9/599496_3644964915604_1143329158_n.jpg?oh=125ce955c 5c2f11244d0786af0b54934&oe=5501B5DD

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/v/t1.0-9/8083_3644968355690_1467868940_n.jpg?oh=22b8cfdd3a8 75924ccbd19749faae694&oe=54FBD2E7&__gda__=1429478857_81b0d57e67dff19850654ef379cd511 5

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/376233_3644968555695_1498016510_n.jpg?oh=9efe003b5 918639acb4ed17719def3df&oe=5533698C&__gda__=1425806149_8e45e5e4cf475b025298bef0c7fe9a2 8

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/603449_3644969075708_2010287778_n.jpg?oh=226ec58ed 00cc5bed76787f88f9015fa&oe=5504A41B&__gda__=1429709180_b8b4ef7884f30f1fbc396e6df946eb9 d

Still need to wetsand at 1500-2000 grit, then polish. I'm really happy with how it came out. Spent about $2k all said and done for all materials, renting the booth, and some labor. Much better than the 4-6K quotes I received from quality paint shops. Hell, Maaco wanted to charge me 2K.

I learned a lot, and feel pretty confident in my body work skills. That being said, I hope I never have to do extensive body work ever again.:shake:

July 10th 2012, 02:00
I moved mine in a box trailer. I had a similar stand under mine to the one in your photo. I slid the legs of the stand in to some channel that was welded in to the corners of the box trailer so it didn't need to be tied off. I then inserted some thread through the top of the stand and in to the pan bolt holes so the bofy didn't need to be tied to the stand.

No marks left on any paint anywhere and it arrived with no problems. I also had removable wheels on the legs of my stand so I could roll it around the garage as well.


July 10th 2012, 10:50
Good to see it made the trip without any troubles.

July 11th 2012, 20:24
Beautiful, great job!


July 15th 2012, 00:41
Here's a question. Is there anything I should do before I mate the body to the chassis? Like run the brake lines?

July 15th 2012, 01:23
Many like to do as much as possible before mounting the body.
Dash, headliner, doors, windows, wiring can all be easier with the body up on the stand.
The whole chassis can be much easier when it's not hidden under the body.
Takes a few more people to lift the body into place, but a good excuse for a party, no?

July 15th 2012, 15:28
On the chassis side, brake lines, pedal cluster, clutch and accel cable, transmission, rear suspension and brake master are all easier with the body off the pan. Save the shifter for after the body is on the pan.

Don't forget the Bakelite heater outlets on the body!


July 15th 2012, 17:08
Hey Dave,

I'm not going to be running heater channels in the car, but I know you can't put them in after the body is mounted. Should I just put them in so down the road if someone wants heat they can? Or just block them off?

November 14th 2012, 01:44
Quick update. Body is mounted! Two of the "pan to body" bolt holes that go along the back seat are misaligned. I can get all the other bolts lined up except those two rear passenger side bolts. I will just have to dremel the body hole a bit larger. Other than that I am freaking excited!!! Hopefully quick progress the next months.

November 14th 2012, 02:08
Also, show of hands. Flared fenders or regular? I was thinking maybe flared rear and regular front.

Shipping to the US is going to kill me.

November 14th 2012, 05:38
It is always nice when it starts looking like a car again.

December 2nd 2012, 18:59



January 4th 2013, 08:47
Fenders arrived!!! Fitment is pretty sweet! Will post soon, need to get ready for work.

Actually... One teaser.


Ok maybe 2.


I was worried the tires wouldn't tuck nicely, but seems like the fitment couldn't be any more perfect!

January 4th 2013, 10:48
Nice! Kerscher ones I see ;-)

January 4th 2013, 14:33
Yup Kerscher all the way! CSP don't have bumper bracket holes and I want to run bumpers.

March 17th 2013, 21:47
I'm rebuilding my 944 cv joints. Is the orientation of the inner race to the outer race directional? I the inner race has some wear on one side so I flipped it around so the balls will rest on the other side as some have claimed. There is pitting on one side of the inner race. Once assembled, the whole cv assembly telescopes inward and outward, but it seems to telescope more on one side (worn side?). Also, if the cv gets turned too far, the whole thing ceases up, but I think this is beyond the operation of the cv once installed.

Should I just replace my CV's completely?

March 18th 2013, 21:44
Replace them. They are a wear item.

March 18th 2013, 22:37
how much where the fenders shipped to your house? id love a set, but they seem quite pricey. and how long did they take to arrive?

March 20th 2013, 13:40
All 4 fenders with shipping was about 1100 US dollars. Then they get you at customs again. Unless you have a import broker who will do it for free. Tack on about another 300-400 dollars to get them through customs. I ordered over Christmas so they kept getting bumped from the ship date. Took maybe a month. Yeah they are expensive, but in my mind stance is one of the most important parts in a car looking just right. I am
Proud to say that I am one of very few in The states with these fenders. My bug is unique and I love it! That's part of the awesomeness of the germanlook, it's not just another empi dragster!

March 20th 2013, 23:22

Are the 944 CV's directional? I've noticed taking them apart that the inner race has an F stamped onto the outer face. Does this face have to point outward always?

March 20th 2013, 23:28
well i must say that after my fenders i bought about a month ago from markVfiberglass, i WISH i would have just went with the Kerscher fenders. i just posted pics of my fenders i got in my build thread on here. i got them cause their the closest thing i could find state side that looked like the kerscher fenders i paid $740 shipped to my work. i have about 80hrs into them just to get them to work/look right. ill never again buy a product from markvfiberglass.

i must agree, stance is everything, thats also why i love the german look style. ive been inlove with the style ever since i saw it in a old vw performance book i had when i was 16yrs old. ever since then its been my dream to build and own a proper awesome german look. cal look is sooooooooooooooooooooo over done. one thing i dont like about hot vw's mag... all they seem to cover is cal look. IMO. well congrats on the awesome fenders. keep up the progress.

March 21st 2013, 01:28
Thanks Cook, I'm really trying to make some moves on the car after being a bit stagnant for a while. Going to pull the trigger on a DTM cooling system soon if I hear back from Raby on the forums that my engine in fact can run the system.

Another note, I have a very slow leak from the drain plug of my 911 transmission. A drop develops on the bottom of the transmission over a period of a couple days. Any suggestions as to remedy this? Let it sit? Supposedly they don't usually leak since trans fluid is so dense.

March 21st 2013, 18:01
I'd try Teflon tape to see if that helps.

March 22nd 2013, 07:34
Drain, clean/degrease both surfaces, locktite 518 to the treads and fill-er-up.

March 22nd 2013, 20:39
Teflon tape is best used on household plumbing ;) Liquid thread sealers are the way to go in automotive apps.

March 27th 2013, 01:17
Just ordered a V2 DTM kit from Jake Raby! Now I just have to wait... That's ok because I have a ton to get down before then anyway.

Opinions on external oil coolers with electric fan? Placement?

March 27th 2013, 01:58
Also, my motor was built, bench dyno'd and initial break in, and then it sat in an airconditioned garage for 15 years. It was turned over a couple times a year. It was recommended to me that I replace the valve springs in case they have "dead spots" in them from sitting in one position for so long.

Is this recommended? Necessary?

What other things should I be thinking about before I start this engine? Before I install the cooling shroud?

March 27th 2013, 04:17
I would not replace the valve springs. You did turn it a couple times a year. I would turn it over with the spark plugs out until you indicate oil pressure. Maybe repeat that a coupe times. Then start it and run it up to 2500 rpm for 10-15 minutes. Make sure you use an oil with the proper ZZDP levels.

March 27th 2013, 10:39
How do I know what the right zddp levels are? I was reading that zddp over 1200ppm can be damaging to the cam, causing spalling. I also read that higher performance motors who change the oil regularly after each event often use higher zddp level due to the increased pressures of higher spring rates.

Any suggestion on a good oil to do an initial re-break in? Should I break it in, drain the oil, and change oils? What do people commonly use, for break in and for normal use?

Also, would it not be a good safety measure to just replace the valve springs? Wouldn't the potential consequences of having a bad valve be valve float which could cause catastrophic damage? How difficult is it to replace the springs? Are there other things to adjust once the valve springs are replaced?

This car has been a learning experience for me the entire time, and these forums have provided invaluable help. The engine is the final frontier for me and I know I have a LOT to learn. I appreciate all the help everyone has given me this far!


March 27th 2013, 18:11
I'm also interested in this zddp thing. Is it necessary just for the brake-in period or always onwards?

March 27th 2013, 19:42
Good reading on oil. http://http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
1200 ppm is a good guideline for the minimum ZDDP level to use in a flat tappet engine.

March 29th 2013, 02:47
I rebuilt my Super Beetle steering box today.


Ordered new seals online. If anyone is wondering, the super beetle steering box oil seals are made by Federal Mogul, National Oil Seals. The sizes are listed below both in metric and american. You can search for them using the metric sizing. You can also get them from SKF at NAPA but you will need the part number.

28x40x7 (1.102"x1.575"x.276")

18x30x7 (.709"x1.181"x.276")


I filled the box up with transmission oil, Swepco 201, and so far no leaks.

I still can't remove all the play from the box. The tolerances seem to get tighter when the steering is dead center. So when the pitman arm is all the way left or right, there is play, but as you approach center, the play disappears. I inspected the worm gear and roller and they seemed in pretty good condition. There is no axial play in either of the shafts. I was wondering if this was a design in the gear box so that there is no play in the steering wheel when driving straight. Per the Bentley manual you are supposed to adjust the "worm to roller" lash when the wheels are turned at a 45 degree angle. If I adjust the lash so there is no play in the pitman arm at 45 degrees, the gear box locks up as it approaches center and I can't turn it. It is apparently supposed to be smooth throughout the rotation with no play in the pitman arm. :rolleyes:

March 31st 2013, 01:05
Hey Guys,

I'm looking at gauges right now... I really like these, what do you think? I am still looking around but I will likely have a similar set up as I do not have a dash.


Should I go all mechanical gages? What is the benefit of electric? Will the electric sending units even work with our cars? I was thinking of wiring a microprocessor (Arduino) into one of the terminal blocks of the Watson Wiring kit i was going to use. This way I could use one terminal to power an assortment of switches, power electric gauges, LED lighting, and any other cool project I can think of.

Any input? The VDO gauges aren't doing it for me... Except for those damn North Hollywood Gauges! Hot damn those Red GT3 RS gauges are the sexiest thing I have ever seen.

March 31st 2013, 08:43
Autometer makes nice stuff. They have a good selection of senders except for CHT (the last time I looked). You can use a Westach CHT gauge and sender and paint the rim with aluminum paint and it will blend in.
Be sure to look at Westach gauges. I love their dual and quad gauges for saving space.

March 31st 2013, 14:14
Do I need to run a CHT on each cylinder? If I just wanted to run a dual CHT gauge, which cylinders would I put the sensors on? Was it Cylinder #3 that runs the hottest? Should I put the sensors on #3 and #4 so I can see the delta between those two? This concerns me because then I have no information about the right side of the engine... Those quad CHT sensors are expensivo!

March 31st 2013, 16:57
I rebuilt my Super Beetle steering box today.
I still can't remove all the play from the box. The tolerances seem to get tighter when the steering is dead center. So when the pitman arm is all the way left or right, there is play, but as you approach center, the play disappears. I inspected the worm gear and roller and they seemed in pretty good condition. . :rolleyes:

The 356 experts say to set up the steering box and steering arms so that the box is precisely centred at straight ahead as there is minimal play at that point. As you move away from dead ahead the play is more but less important.

April 1st 2013, 22:12
Important note on gauges: if you are going fuel injected and have an ecu with a serial or can output, you might want to consider a digital dash instead. I spent ove $1200 in autometer electric gauges and senders, as well as a dual cyl. head temp gauge. I could have saved $350 or so and gone with a programable dash from racetechnologies, or racepak.

I'll be ditching my autometer gauges in the race bug and going with a programmable dash for the new motor.

fwiw, here's the gauges I run
5" tach, 5" speedo, 2 5/8" fuel, ego (wideband), boost 30 psi, oil temp, oil pressure, and dual cht on #2 and #3

April 1st 2013, 22:22
So I am currently not going Fuel injected, but it is a long term goal. (Turbo FI) I'm assuming that the programmable dashes are not compatible without an ECU.

April 1st 2013, 22:49
It depends on the dash, some can use external sensors, and some only poll the ecu over serial/can bus. Typically, logging capable dashes will take external sensors, or have an additional box that does. Either way, a logger is nice to have regardless of setup, but usually adds 50% to the cost.

April 2nd 2013, 04:13
I am running a DTM shroud and have a CHT gauge for #1 and #3.

April 2nd 2013, 13:30
I'll be ditching my autometer gauges in the race bug and going with a programmable dash for the new motor.
Sense will out, but i see the weight saving advantage, high weight too, so a handling plus.

April 2nd 2013, 16:53
sense will out, but i see the weight saving advantage, high weight too, so a handling plus.


April 2nd 2013, 16:55
I am pretty sure I will get these seats, Sparco Sprint 5. They are narrow enough to fit in the bug without looking awkward in my opinion. FIA approved and have the submarine hole for the 5th belt.


What is your opinion. 4 or 5 point seat belts? Any sanctioned race will require 5 point, but is it overkill for me? I will be doing track days, but doubt I will be doing full fledged races. That being said, the safer the better. My worry is if they will be a pain to put on and off, but I have heard 4 point are more of a PITA than 5.

April 2nd 2013, 23:53
For any track event 5 or 6 point best. Antisubmarine very important feature that 4 point can't provide.

Not that inconvenient to take on and off with practice.

April 3rd 2013, 02:42
I feel like I'm turning this build into a random questionaire... haha. Anyway, I am looking to install a push start ignition in the car. I think I understand how to wire one up with a relay, but I found this diagram.


Doesn't the Engine Start button side of the relay need a low current power supply in order to actuate the relay when the momentary switch (start button) is closed? Once the relay closes, then the circuit to the "starter wire" (which would be to the + side of the coil), would close and actuate the starter?

April 4th 2013, 11:29
An array of analogue gauges and old type wiring is heavy and high as in C/G?
Digi dashes way naff all and can be low mounted if required, and thin wall wiring is very lightweight.;)

April 4th 2013, 11:37
For any track event 5 or 6 point best. Antisubmarine very important feature that 4 point can't provide.

Not that inconvenient to take on and off with practice.

This ^^^^^ and another weight saving opportunity here also with an ultralight pro harness, these and the digi dash and thin wall wiring can save well over 3 kg. the budget steel harness fittings start to nag on you if your in the car for an hour or more, i seem to remember posting one that weighed in at 3.5 kg:eek:

April 4th 2013, 13:38
Actually, one of the biggest arguments for a digital dash is not weight but information. You layout different "pages" on the dash and each one can report different info. It also saves time looking around at a dozen gauges for 15 seconds while you're on a straight.

As for belts, Alex is right, you want at least a 5-point, and preferably a cam lock. If you've ever put on a 4-point belt and cinched it up wrong, it'll creep up your stomach. Submarining under the belt is the same thing but happens much faster during an accident and the 5th point prevents that. I've also had to spend, probably hours now, explaining to passengers how a latch link belt works and how to put one on. It's worth the extra money for a cam lock to never go through that, coincidentally, I'm also switching to cam locks :)

As a rule of thumb, you can never be too safe. Consider this, a $600 seat, $300 belt, $900 fire suppression system, $800 fuel cell, $1200 roll cage, $1500 fire suit, $400 helmet, etc., seem like big purchases up front, but they can prevent tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars in hospital bills after an accident. So when you look at safety items, your foremost question should be, "How much am I worth?"

For the relay, most automotive relays will take 12v for the coil circuit. so the starter relay would look like this

T85: ground
T86: +12v from start button
T87: to starter
T30: +12v in

This is for 4 terminal relays, if there is a fifth one (87a), don't use it. Terminal 87a is a passthrough power until relay is activated then 87a goes to 0v and 87 goes to 12v.

April 5th 2013, 01:22
So here's my thoughts on your questions...

Sparco Sprint - Sparco Sprint seats are a made with a steel tube-frame construction. While FIA certified, and safer then a non-certified seat, you should consider the use of the vehicle before buying them. If there is a significant chance of serious accident in the car (track racing, stage rally, etc.) then I would pass on the Sprints and find a composite construction seat. You want to avoid a situation where the seat frame could distort or break and injure it's occupant. In the case of rally-cross or autocross (where accidents which damage the passenger compartment are far less likely) a Sprint would be a fine choice.

4pt belts - Avoid these like plague. As already stated, it's pretty challenging to do these up properly without the buckle rising up into your abdomen. An accident (even minor) could cause you great internal damage. Go with 5pts or 6pts, and always run the submarine belt...even to the corner store.

Push Button Start - I would encourage you to consider why you want a push button start with the ignition key still in use. Keeping the stock ignition cylinder intact simplifies the wiring, and keeps the theft protection functional. Adding a push-button in addition to the key adds three additional points of failure (button, relay and wiring) any of which could disable your car mid-competition. I would suggest you either a) ditch the ignition switch entirely (I can give you wiring diagram) or b) forget the push button.

Digital Dash - Not really a question, but I figured I should jump in on the conversation. The biggest advantage to a programmable dash is that you program the display to only show information if there is a problem. It could show oil temp until it reaches operating temperature (for instance) and then never show oil temperature again unless it gets too high...then it should flash or otherwise attract the driver's attention. If someone is using traditional gauges, simply twist each gauge so "normal" operating condition is with the needle straight up and down. Your brain no longer needs to "read" gauges. You simply glance over for a millisecond and look back forward. Your brain processes whether or not all needles were "straight up", and only if they weren't do you need to take the time/brain power to look and read the problem gauge.


April 6th 2013, 12:30
Sorry for hijacking, but can you tell me please where the submarine belt should be attached (what is the best angle?)? Slots in the seat are required in this case?

April 6th 2013, 13:24
Harness mounting is fairly specific, best to read the instructions that are for the actual belt you're installing. But for general information, the Schroth book is pretty good. Regardless, seats require a proper anti-submarine slot. It's very dangerous to use a seat that doesn't have a slot. https://www.tillett.co.uk/shop/documents/downloads/seat-belt-fitting-information-2012.pdf

5pt belts are typically done with the anti-submarine strap following the chest-torso line and then mounted between that line dropped down to the floor, or 20deg forward.

6pt belts are either run through anti-submarine straps, through the side slots and you sit on the anti-submarine belts, or under a thin panel in the seat. The mounting point is quite specific to the belt you're using.


April 6th 2013, 13:35
Thanks for the info Dave!
One more, if there is no cage in the bug where would you mount the shoulder belts? The original fixing point behind the rear seat is too low?

April 6th 2013, 21:41
If there is no cage in the bug, you shouldn't _ever_ run shoulder belts in a harness. Should the vehicle roll, a 4-5-6pt harness (done up properly), does not allow you to move the upper body and you are risking permanent spinal damage or death should the roof collapse. If you're not running a roll bar, I would suggest using just the lap and anti-submarine belts.

FWIW, a four point roll bar (like I have in my beetle), may not be enough for full harnesses either. I was denied entry into a particular event due to the risk of front portion of the roof crushing in an killing me in a roll-over. Technically my car met the rules, but the organizer reserves the right to exclude any vehicles they think are unfit, and mine was selected. Definitely made me think about putting in the front half of a cage as well...may still do so.


April 7th 2013, 02:16
A bit of excitement! Now I am ready for the soap box derby!! Just shove me down a hill!

Although no cooling vanes in the rotors, I will switch the left and right rotors so the slotting is going the other way in order to be consistent with the back.
Front clip isn't perfect but the front bumper and Kamei should hide it. The front was clearly in an accident at some point, and the fender bolt holes may need to be drilled out and welded back in. Maybe in the future I will replace the whole front clip.

Watson StreetWorks wiring harness should arrive at the end of the week. My 944 CV's and axles are off for a little R&R, DTM cooling shroud will be coming sometime.

Anyone have an idea what these sensors are?

Oil Pressure????

Oil Temp????

April 7th 2013, 20:47
You are correct with the sensors. ;)

April 9th 2013, 21:54

Am I doing something wrong? I got these struts to replace the springs on my hood from CIP1. They do not move a bit! I can't extend or compress them at all. Do they just take really high force to move them? Problem is, they are compressed too much so that I won't be able to attach them unless the hood is closed and how am I supposed to do that??

The other piece is already E-clipped into the car.

April 9th 2013, 22:46
usually thoes gas struts are fully extended and they take quite the force to compress. so i dont know why they are compressed. maybe call them and see what might be the matter or maybe something your missing on how to install them.

April 9th 2013, 22:55
I put all my weight on them to compress em, and no luck... They also seem too short to be extended.

April 9th 2013, 23:20
I've had those that needed to unseat once to let them move, they don't look compressed to me, I think they just need to move once. Otherwise, that is just way too stiff, your hood will start to fall apart. Put the threaded end on some wood then get on top of that thing!


April 9th 2013, 23:32
Just tried again... Maybe I'm not fat enough?

April 10th 2013, 03:40
I've got gas struts on my hood, picked them up from a local supplier, not CIP
I can move them in and out my hand.
Sounds liked they are stuffed. Usual CIP quality?
Don't put them on mate or you will bend or crack your hood for sure.

April 10th 2013, 11:44
I've recently replace the gas struts on my mum's polo boot (trunk) They were completely uncompressible by hand, however once fitted they worked perfectly.

As mentioned, sume have a 1/4 turn lock, I've seen that before too

April 12th 2013, 01:21



I've come quite a way in the past few months!



Seems like the money is just pouring out of my wallet on this thing recently...

April 12th 2013, 15:01
haha, yes the reassembly stage tends to do that!

Just wait until the finishing stages...the suction from your wallet becomes black-hole intensity :-)

Great progress though!


April 13th 2013, 01:48
Watson Wiring Harness has arrived... Installation pics coming soon. I may need to step away from the car this weekend, feeling a bit stressed out over it.

Gone Fishing, be back soon! ;) But seriously I'm going fishing.

April 14th 2013, 21:17
You will love the watsons streetworks harness. The wiring layout for the lights is nothing like VW's, but it works. Make sure and have the bentley manual handy when you do the steering column and wipers. ;)

April 14th 2013, 23:17
I got the hood struts installed with the hinges and they do indeed function fine. Hard to believe that much force is required but I guess the good old T=F*r holds true.

I am really tempted to get the hood mounted, but the logical side tells me not to until the wiring is done and the gas tank is in. BUT I WANT TO SEE THE HOOD MOUNTED!!!!!!!!!

April 19th 2013, 04:31
I got the hood struts installed with the hinges and they do indeed function fine. Hard to believe that much force is required but I guess the good old T=F*r holds true.

Can you give me the compressed and normal lenght of the strut please?

April 22nd 2013, 22:22
Not sure where you want me to measure from. do you want the hinge bolt to the body pin measurement, shaft length, or full strut length?

April 23rd 2013, 19:14
I talked to FAT performance and they also recommended replacing the valve springs considering they are almost 20 years old now. They may not be broken but could be fatigued by remaining compressed, which I guess is debatable but I'd rather just replace them than drop a valve and blow my engine up. So now I'm looking into valve spring compressors for the 914 2.0 heads with the 3 studs. I found this one on CB performance which claims to work with T4 heads, but does that mean it will work with 914 2.0 heads?


Anyone else have a tool they use?

Also, my DTM shipped today! :cool:

April 26th 2013, 01:05
Anyone? How do you get your valve springs out? If you have a good argument for why I shouldn't replace them, I'm all ears.

Steve C
April 26th 2013, 03:41

When I worked in VW shop we had valve spring tool that bolted to the head using the rocker studs and compressed all the valves at once. I've half made one I will post a photo soon


Steve C
April 26th 2013, 04:02

I just did a rough drawing of the tool I was talking about. It had a hole for the rocker stud to poke through. To take strees away from the rocker stud I used 5/8th bolt with a M8 thread tapped into the head of the bolt, the bolt was fitted hex end against the rocker post and 5/8th nut was then used draw the tool down.

It worked in car as well if you put some compressed air into the cylinder.


http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/valvetool_zpsb8e38d9d.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/valvetool_zpsb8e38d9d.jpg.html)

Steve C
April 26th 2013, 04:05
Actually looking at my drawing I see errors in my post.

The tool needs to fit inside the rocker box on the top edge and the sides so that it can wind down far enough to colapse the springs.

April 26th 2013, 15:46
Hey Steve,

I know I could make one, but I was wondering if there was already one being made. Those heads you've shown are vw heads, correct? They make tools for t1 heads and apparently for T4, but I'm concerned my heads are different than T4 heads since they are in fact 914 2.0L heads. The cb performance tool posted above claims to fit t4 but I don't think they will work with Porsche heads.

Steve C
April 26th 2013, 16:35

As far as I know the 914 head use the same rocker gear as any Type 4 would and as the tool locates on the rocker shaft posts I cant see why the CB unit wouldn't work, plug location is different and there is maybe differences in chamber shape.

The thing I like about the tool I tried to describe is that its very controlled as everything is bolted down securely.


April 27th 2013, 07:43
I made one out of an old rocker shaft, an old jack handle and some scrap 3/16 flat steel cut and ground to a radius. Bolt it to the heads and it works well.

April 28th 2013, 19:22
NO_H20, do you think you could post up a picture if you get the chance?

April 29th 2013, 16:37
Here you go.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb225/NO_H2O/DSCF0861.jpg~original (http://s209.photobucket.com/user/NO_H2O/media/DSCF0861.jpg.html)

April 29th 2013, 23:54
Awesome, thanks! What did you use as the cylinder to go around the rocker shaft? Old rocker arm? I will be headed down to the porsche yard this weekend to get some shafts and rocker arms.

I started thinking though... Should I not just take my heads off and use an easily available spring compressor? Will a spring compressor that I can rent from (autozone, oreilly, checker, etc) work with the heads off? What are the downsides of completely removing the heads? other than needed new gaskets.

Other notes, my V2 DTM stage IV kit showed up at my door today. Very happy with the fiberglass quality.

Gotta get started on the wiring.

April 30th 2013, 04:41
I used a section of pipe for the rocker shaft pivot. If you don't have any head leaks, no need to remove them. Use the tool to compress the springs. You can rotate the engine to almost TDC. Then stuff parachute cord down the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine a bit more to snug the cord against the valves (don't force it too much). The cord will keep the valves seated while you remove the springs. Remove the keepers, retainers and springs and replace what is needed. Double check the keepers. Rotate the engine back to remove the pressure on the cord and pull the cord back out the spark plug hole and move on to the next cylinder.

April 30th 2013, 16:13
Just did this on my engine, for all eight sets. If you have an air-compressor, I highly recommend trying to find a spark plug hole adapter that allows you to put 120psi of air into the cylinder to hold the valve up vs. the parachute (nylon) cord. It's a pain trying to get enough cord into the cylinder. I managed, and did all 8 in about two hours...but it would have been easier/faster without that cord.


April 30th 2013, 19:08
I will try and find one of the spark plug adapters when I do it. I'm still torn as to whether I even need to replace the springs, but just to be sure I think I will replace them. The consequences of not replacing them if they are bad outweighs the cost of replacing them.

(1) Suggestions on which and who to buy dual valve springs from?

(2) I need a fuel pump soon. Any recommendations or good reads on fueling for weber 40IDFs?

(3) With the Watson Streetworks wiring harness, how are people mounting the relays now that the stock relay location is gone?

April 30th 2013, 19:55
Check my thread for possible consequences of not replacing the springs. It's in my latest post. The ones that weren't broken were 1/4" shorter then the new springs I put in. Noticeable difference in pressure required to remove/install as well.

3) Check VW / Audi wrecking yards. Cars from the 90's-2000's have a relay panel under the dash that unbolts. Usually 5 or 6 relay slots. You can get new terminal ends from the dealership (if you like spending money) or they use a simple 'keyed' female connector. Alternatively:

Bosch part number - 3 334 485 008 You'll need the terminals as well, but the people you buy the Bosch part from will have the terminals.
Painless Wiring - P/N 30108 is a 6-relay bank with wires.


May 2nd 2013, 02:28
Anyone have fuel system suggestions? If I want to go turbo eventually should I just pony up for a better fuel pump? Also, is it mandatory to have a fuel pressure regulator for carburated cars?

May 2nd 2013, 07:38
Carter GP60504. You can get one from Summit.
Whatever spring you choose. Be sure to check for coil-bind when the valves are fully open. If the spring does not have some more room to compress when the valve is fully open, bad things happen in a short amount of time (broken springs and dropped valves).

November 18th 2014, 00:45
So it's been a long time, I got distracted doing track days on this thing...


but I have a couple questions right off the bat.

I got the DTM shroud on and mocked up, but it seems like the alternator is sticking out too far. Potential reasons why? Shouldn't the DTM fit in the late model beetles/supers with ease? I haven't installed the decklid, but initial mock up suggests it won't close but just barely. I may be able to get away with getting rid of the billet pulley bolt+spacer from Raby, but it's a shiny little piece I'd like to use. Maybe I'm just being paranoid and it will fit fine when I mount the decklid.


I'd be really disappointed if I mounted the transmission too far back in the car, but don't know how I could have mounted it any differently. I'll try to get some more pictures under the car tomorrow. I have the shortened nose cone on the trans, and the bellhousing actually sits slightly towards the front of the car in the cradle.

Any help would be appreciated...


The kafer brace adds maybe 1/4" between the frame horns and the bellhousing cradle. That's the only thing I can think that is adding spacing.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/v/t1.0-9/602933_4809774595118_38467980_n.jpg?oh=6028a086d9f 027d276a3bfad3d078bf3&oe=551DA71C&__gda__=1424514435_61e1af08b24254968a255eff7d1937f 4


The right side carb is really quite close to the body, but it won't interfere with the decklid.


Finally a photo from the side to show the clearance issues. The crank pulley should clear the apron but I can't tell until I buy a new one, mucked up the first.


Last thing, I'm trying to put my new A1 headers on, but I can't seem to get the old headers off. Suggestions how to get at this nut?

It's good to be back and I'm hoping to get the motor running before the end of the year. I got some gauges from SpeedHut that look pretty nice. I'll post some pictures soon. I'M GOING TO FINISH THIS DAMN THING!

November 18th 2014, 17:02
I initially had some clearance issues with my 901/DTM setup, but had the transmission positioned in the middle of the slots, on the rear Bug@5speed transmission mount (frame horn side). I loosened the nuts on the rubber pads, between the mount and transmission, and pushed the transmission back as far as I could, so that the rubber mounts pushed into the area where the engine meets the bell housing. I had to trim the rubber pads slightly, but it gave me just enough clearance between the decklid and alternator pulley. Couldn't see the position of your mount in the pic. Can you mockup the decklid to confirm the issue?

Edit -- Just saw your brace spacing issue. I have had that cause issues in the past (due to the extra space). You could also unbolt the front bars, and confirm fitment. If that fixes it, you could look at another mounting point on the other side of the transmission bracket, or weld to the bracket, if the geometry allows it. I had a similar brace, and it was somewhat difficult to install.

February 11th 2016, 22:24
I finally got the motor started and I'm in the process of tuning up the carbs. I started having this squeaking noise coming from the flywheel/clutch. When I depress the clutch pedal, the noise disappears. THoughts?


Just want to drive it already :driving:

February 12th 2016, 03:23
Release bearing sounds like the culprit

February 12th 2016, 15:24
You mean the throw out bearing?

February 12th 2016, 17:59
Does anyone have a diagram of what components should be installed between the throwout bearing and the clutch assembly? I have a 901 transmission mated to a type 4 motor. I'd have to check on the flywheel size.

I'm wondering if I was supposed to have some sort of centering collar or sleeve.

February 13th 2016, 04:47
I do yes. I'm not too familiar with the 901, it may need one, else if they are constant contact they can sometimes go dry and make a noise.

February 14th 2016, 00:10

901 Transmission definitely has a clutch guide tube as part of the assembly (#1). Early 901 has the clutch guide tube held on with two studs/nuts at 12 and 6 o'clock. Later 901 has the two studs at 2 and 8 o'clock. The guide tubes, I believe are the same, but to be sure I'd need a photo of your transmission without the clutch fork/bearing installed.


February 14th 2016, 22:51
Thanks! I definitely have the clutch guide tube installed, I checked and you can see it installed on page 2 of this thread! Phew! So it seems like everything is installed correctly. I thought maybe there needed to be a bushing that installed into the clutch fingers that the throwout bearing rode on.

I'm going to try and adjust the clutch cable and then the shift rod connection if clutch adjustment doesn't fix it. The problem is that the clutch pedal doesn't have any play so it seems I need to loosen the tension. However, I tried getting it into gear while idling and the gears ground with the clutch all the way to the floor. I managed to get it into gear with a quick and firm shift, although it made a smallish grinding noise.

February 15th 2016, 00:20
Saving me the trouble of reading back through your thread, are you able to answer any of the following:

1) Year of 901 transmission.
2) Model of Porsche the transmission came out of? (911, 912, etc)
3) Serial numbers and stampings on your transmission.
4) Photos of the following:
- Bellhousing, clutch fork and bearing installed.
- Bellhousing, clutch fork and bearing not installed.
- Clutch fork end, and your cable setup.
5) Part number on your clutch fork.

For now, before you pull the engine, reply with everything you're able to answer. Scour your photographs, and crawl under your trans for all the numbers and stampings. Basically, there are a number of different types of "901 transmission". There is the early aluminum case 901, there is the later magnesium cased 901 and then there is the 70-71 911 transmission which was based on the 901 but uses a pull-type clutch assembly. Basically, first step is sorting out which transmission you have. Then, the next is sorting out if that may have to do with your clutch issue.

HTH, or at least...hope it will!


February 15th 2016, 04:21
There is a given with grinding gear selection, the driven plate is exactly that, it's being driven, it's rotating with the fly when it should be ' released' and not free, so you can't get gears, two common reasons are the input shaft ' gland nut' or equivalent bearing are missing or failed leaving the shaft waggling in the breeze, or the driven plate is to thick, measure thickness against a known working plate, this one is very common.
Also Sometimes the input shaft is too long causing the same effect, it produces noise as described and grinding gears, it may be bottoming on the crank when the motor bolts are synched down, easy fix with a grinder.