My other 1303 GL

[ricola]

That sucks Steve, are you sure the body isn't twisted?

[Wally]

Damn! That sucks! Good to hear repairs are already in the planning.

[Steve C]

Thanks guys, still pulling it apart but the body looks OK.

Rich is it OK if I send you an email with few questions about your chassis mods?

[graham]

Ah, dam Steve, sorry to here about that mate :( Good luck with the re build

[Steve C]

thanks Graham, I will make it better and hopefully lighter, so I will be adding some light weight for more power.

What I plan to change is a less complicated chassis mods like Ricola did, I had rear toe out issues which was caused when the chassis was cut and re welded, I also want to move my motor forward about another 20 mm and move my gearshifter forward as well, it ended up too far back.

[Steve C]

Hi

A few photos,

the impact moved the torsion bar housing back a bit
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/torsion%20housing_zpsmhese9fy.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/torsion%20housing_zpsmhese9fy.jpg.html)

broke a brand new Koni
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/strut_zpsabpt1bvk.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/strut_zpsabpt1bvk.jpg.html)

side view
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/side_zpsoj2epo6m.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/side_zpsoj2epo6m.jpg.html)

bent LCA
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/lca_zps4yh4oxrp.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/lca_zps4yh4oxrp.jpg.html)

damage to front 1/4
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/front%20quarter_zpskmfwhkz7.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/front%20quarter_zpskmfwhkz7.jpg.html)

[cookvw]

damn this really sucks to see. best of luck with the repairs

[H2OSB]

Wow, that LCA is really bent.

[ricola]

I'm sure you were starting to get bored (as I am!) when everything works... Good opportunity for some other mods like you say! Will you need to go through all your engineering inspections again?

[Steve C]

The new pan Im going to use is very rusty (wink wink) in a certain area is so I will need to repair that area with piece from the old pan.

I was really finally getting some things sorted so it will be good to take some weight out of the car. What did your car weigh in at again Ric? Mine was 1160 kgs

I was getting toe in when the car was jacked up and if I pushed the car up and down you could see the toe changing, so I refitted a tie rod re locater as seen in this picture and also unflipped my tie rod ends, it was perfect after I did this

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/new%201303%20pictures/Steves_13031.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/new%201303%20pictures/Steves_13031.jpg.html)

[Oval]

Bugger... :(

[Gerrelt]

Owh, that's bad news, it's horrible to see your beautiful car like that. :(
Good luck with the rebuild, make it better and stronger!

You were OK after the crash?

[ricola]

Mine was 1200kg wet with a full tank, not light but the power more than compensates! 60/40 weight distribution, that was on the MOT scales so possibly not very accurate. I did pick the heaviest bug ever produced by the factory to start with...

[H2OSB]

I'm sure you broke the G50 too...Dang it, I guess you're gonna need a reverse R&P Subi trans

[effvee]

:mad: wow, no matter how you feel you can handle it, that was your baby dude. Sorry for your loss man.

[owdlvr]

Weird, thought I replied days ago. Sorry to read about the hit, you obviously went in HARD!

May I suggest, in addition to the obvious pan/suspension repairs, that you seriously consider replacing both your harness belts and your seat. Harness belts at the very least, and I'd replace the seat to be 100% safe. Both items should be considered "one-use-only" in a crash. I'd also look heavily at your helmet, any scuff marks or signs of impact and you should consider retiring it as well.

-Dave

[Steve C]

Hi

No harness, jut a lap & sash inertia reel belt, I will replace it, it was very low speed crash, helmet didn't hit anything.

Powercruise was on this weekend in Sydney, I was going to take my Beetle to it but that wasn't going to happen, so my son found this little beauty for me, a Nissan 180 SX, came with a healthy SR20DET, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, two sets of wheels, new coil overs etc.

Fixed a few little issues, rego on Friday, did several cruise sessions and my son did about 3 hours of drifting with it and it didn't have any problems, its a bit gutless after my Beetle but its a really nice car to drive.

I plan to do a few speed events in it and my son is going to help me learn to drift

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/Steves%20180_zpszaksmtca.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/Steves%20180_zpszaksmtca.jpg.html)

[Steve C]

I forgot to mention this, I fitted some of Lanners heavy duty tie rods when I built the car, outer tie rod snapped inner one bent, Lanners tie rods looks like new

[Steve C]

Hi

Car is at the panel shop now, working on the new chassis but I found another problem, the G50 bell housing is cracked very badly, anybody know anybody that might have one?



http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/wr%20smash_zpsgojorruj.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/wr%20smash_zpsgojorruj.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/g50%20crack_zpsrcgogwdc.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/g50%20crack_zpsrcgogwdc.jpg.html)

sorry about the crappy phone pics

[Wally]

The G50 bellhousing is not a seperate part like it is on a T2 transmission, so you basically need the total gearstack housing casing.
I'd say thats usually another tranny as the new Porsche part for that will surely be expensive. Maybe search for a G50 with an internal problem?
Very sorry to see the damage is more then sheetmetal :-(

[effvee]

Can it be welded? Or did it damaged the gear stack supporting areas?

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

The damage is only to the bell housing area but the main shaft is offset slightly, I'm hoping that is in the bell housing distortion, the left hand axle hit the centre bolt in the drive flange. The Porsche specialist was telling me that he had a customer who needed one and he bought a re welded one from the US for $1700 US plus shipping.

Steve

[Clatter]

You are my hero!
Not only did you just build it and race it, you pushed it hard enough to wad it up!

Now you rebuild...

Major props.

I'm just a boy.

[effvee]

You are my hero!
Not only did you just build it and race it, you pushed it hard enough to wad it up!

Now you rebuild...

Major props.

I'm just a boy.
:eekno: you are kidding aren't you. G-50 in a bug, wonderful. That was not a smash up bang up ride. Somewhere in Steve's personal space that hurt. That whole rebuild is going to Cost$$$. Smash up bang up cars, were already banged up. Or, is this the phrase "break a leg", that actors use?

[Steve C]

Thanks guys, a lot people build tough cars but they are not always driven hard.

I think apart from too much boost in the wet is that I built so much grip into the car it felt invincible: in the dry and being a nice car I avoided driving in the rain.

I feel that I have only been pulling things apart on the car, so no actual progress, tomorrow I start on the pan, so a gradual putting it back together again.

I have some good ideas about how to tackle the G50 fitment and make it better than before, I will post photos etc as I go.

[spannermanager]

A sad and tough break that Steve, Have you looked at the Renault UN1 box? detachable bell housing and all, quite a versatile trans.

[Steve C]

Hi

I looked at Reno boxes years ago, pretty rare down here. If the G50 proves to be not an option I might go to one of these http://www.subarugears.com/ not as heavy duty as a G50 but with a weight saving on the chassis and transmission one might survive.

I like doing this sort of thing https://youtu.be/spgKInSH1D0 and this https://youtu.be/uhgVgzf5oD0 not sure how a Subaru box will handle it.

Steve

[spannermanager]

One thing I don't like is the Subaru hypoid r&p for correct drive shaft alignment tho, I looked at them when I built my 4x4 Rallycross '03 and had an option with used prodrive development 'boxes, at cost obviously�� but the positioning was all wrong for my requirements, it forced the trans/motor install up too high for me, hope you get it sorted whatever option you go. ��

[graham]

Not been on here for ages due to moving abroad . Sorry to see so much damage to your car Steve good luck with the re build dude.

[Steve C]

Thanks Graham, I'm still waiting to see how welding goes on the housing, I've been talking to Todd at Subaru gears. If the welding of the bellhousing is unsuccessful I might go 6 speed Suabru with one of the new forged R&P

[Steve C]

Hi

the welding on the bell housing appears to be successful, new chassis is under way and looking good, I've already moved my shifter forward 100 mm and moved my brake MC over 30 mm and fitted the clutch slave next to it like I did with my old pan.

I have some really good ideas on the G50 pan clearancing, I'm making new forks etc from 1 3/4 roll cage tubing, it should cut weight down a lot.

I've fitted new CNC cut pans supplied my friend Glenn whos on here but I cant remember his user name, taking the chassis to the panel beater today to make sure it fits together OK.

Steve

[effvee]

Hi, some clarity please. 100mm forward, from your picture, you look over 6ft tall. My bug, I moved my shifter about four inches rearward. I"m 6"2, I drove my blue bug with the seat almost contacting the back seat. 100 equates to 4".

[Steve C]

Hi

The G50 shifter bends back towards the driver, so in 2nd & 4th my elbow was next to my body. I am about 6.1 and a bit, but I'm old so I'm shrinking.

Body is now temporarily on the pan so the panel beater can give it a tug to line the front 1/4 back up again, once he's finished with it I will get the pan finished off and painted.

On Wednesday I'm driving to Birdsville in outback Queensland for music concert http://www.bigredbash.com.au/bigredbash/index , after I get back from Birdsville I have 2 weeks of work then a week long VW show http://volkswagenspectacular.com/, then after that I'm back into getting my bug back on the road.

Entries are open Wednesday for the Snowy Mountains 1000 in November, if I cant get my bug ready in time I will take my rice rocket daily a 180SX Nissan.

Steve

[effvee]

Your shifter rod, effect on shifter sweep/pattern, is this because of you using the Porsche rod itself?

The reason for the questions are, at some point I will be headed in that direction. My co-worker that sold me the G-50 also has the shifter and rod to sell. I have been thinking on a more straight line shift rod install. At present I have two u-joints for the same purpose. I may even sink the thifter lower into the tunnel, in order to attain a better straightness; but this is all in my head.

Thank you for putting up with me.

[Wally]

Hi

The G50 shifter bends back towards the driver, ...

Indeed. I straigthened the shifter for that reason (and used a 30% shift throw reduction kit). Problem solved ;)

[CraigRobbo]

Out of interest is the colour p018 bluetorange?

[Steve C]

I was reluctant to straighten the shifter in case it was hardened and it broke, I didn't need to alter the shift rod length at all with my old chassis, I will need to extend it for this chassis, I was thinking of making an extension on the rear coupling.

where did you get the shift reduction kit from Wally?

the colour is Porsche 911 blood orange, not sure of the code

[Wally]

I was reluctant to straighten the shifter in case it was
hardened and it broke, ...
where did you get the shift reduction kit from Wally?


No, its just made of regular piss-steel :D

I'll look that up again, forgot, but somewhere in my old topic here...

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, I saw them on the Wevo sight but they are bit expensive at $595 US but no doubt well made

[Wally]

No, I haven't got a Wevo one. At Pelican parts they also have less expensive ones, just take a look there ;-)

[Steve C]

Hi

Panel work is finished, it will be painted next week, then I can get started on the chassis.

I'm going to fit an air intake in the right rear mudguard like Jak and Ricola have done, I will pass air through a BMC air filter box http://www.bmcairfilters.com/eng/ota-oval-trumpet-airbox/acota70-85l230-b/812... Im going to lift and turn my turbo so I dont have to run air under the inlet manifold and fit a V band housing to it

I've fitted a E85 Walbro fuel pump in place of the Bosch 044.

Steve

[ricola]

Are you tempted to switch to a regular (non Subaru housing) turbo Steve seeing as you are re-making the pipework, I believe they are more efficient?

[Steve C]

Hi Rich

This is the rear housing I'm looking at, V band in and out http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/390050

Started work on the chassis, I'm going to use 1 3/4 .95 roll cage tube for chassis forks etc. I'm buying a bender and notcher from these people http://www.affordablebender.com/collections/affordable-benders-tube-notchers

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi Rich

I was reading your website today, how are you finding your frozen boost intercooler?

Steve

[ricola]

Seems OK and was cold to the touch when originally mapped, I have now fitted an IAT and also a wideband lambda and plan on doing some map fettling soon so will see from the logs...

New turbo housing looks good, I take it the new framehorns will have plenty of triangulation if only that size then?

[Steve C]

Hi Rich

Lots of bracing and I can double up on the tubes if needed.

been getting a bit done on the chassis. I'm going to lay my shocks a little further forwards to give more axle clearance.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/top%20shock%20.1_zpswr1quevf.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/top%20shock%20.1_zpswr1quevf.jpg.html)

I'm really happy with the tube bender and notcher that I bought from Affordable benders, really nice bend with no kinks. I made the first bit to go over the transmission and allow the torsion bar inner spline area to be removed.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/top%20reo_zpsqalf01dh.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/top%20reo_zpsqalf01dh.jpg.html)

I made an extra base for the hoop using 50x50 tube, I made it into a U channel and I was having difficulty cutting a hole with the notcher until I welded a length of angle to it

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/hole%20saw_zpsxtmae4pe.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/hole%20saw_zpsxtmae4pe.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/top%20reo%20weld_zpshqy3ekvd.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/top%20reo%20weld_zpshqy3ekvd.jpg.html)


welded the hoop to torsion bar housing and added an extra bit at the base

[Steve C]

did the big cut today, no going back now

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/torsion%20housing_zpsye6ccrwz.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/torsion%20housing_zpsye6ccrwz.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/torsion%20housing.1_zpsbrc3x5k7.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/torsion%20housing.1_zpsbrc3x5k7.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/torsion%20housing.2_zpsdw7yarkw.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/torsion%20housing.2_zpsdw7yarkw.jpg.html)


also did the cut out for the 944 spring plates

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/944%20spring%20plate%20mod_zpsg7qtlj1p.jpg~origina l (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/944%20spring%20plate%20mod_zpsg7qtlj1p.jpg.html)

[Wally]

Are you putting torsion bars in again? (not sure what else you are welding back in?)

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

m going to use the short 30 mm bars that I had in my old chassis again.

[Wally]

Hi Wally

m going to use the short 30 mm bars that I had in my old chassis again.

Ok, but why not going coil-over right away when you're doing that much work already? They say coil-over is a big upgrade over torsion bars :)

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

With my transmission so far forward the shocks were almost touching the driveshafts, coil overs would be worse.

[Wally]

Ah, I hadn't taken that into consideration... space can indeed be a restriction sometimes. GL with the build!

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, just about to fit G50 in this chassis for the first time

[Steve C]

test fit, pretty happy much more clearance now

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/big%20G50.1_zpswa0gjqre.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/big%20G50.1_zpswa0gjqre.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/big%20G50_zpsv6wvxmqb.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/big%20G50_zpsv6wvxmqb.jpg.html)

[Steve C]

Hi

Still working on the chassis, looking good for a bit of weight reduction. The motor was just sitting in the stand doing nothing, so I put in some ARP 625+ headstuds, new head gaskets and Tomei valve springs, shooting for early 300 kW @ the wheels. One of the head gaskets was close to blowing so another few dyno pulls or hard events and it would have let go.

Been doing lots of driving with my 180SX so lots of tail out driving, more of which I will have with more power in my bug.

Body work is finished now, the body is in storage as my garage is too small to have both parts of the car there.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

I've been very busy getting my bug back together, its at the tuners now for a tickle.

I bought a .63 Tial V Band rear housing for my turbo to replace the .82, it was very laggy and wasnt coming until 5000 rpm, I lifted and rotate the turbo. I was lucky a good friend happened to be near ATP in north Cali and picked it up for me.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tial%20housing_zps8aehrxjd.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tial%20housing_zps8aehrxjd.jpg.html)

I acquired a Subaru Gears engine cradle from Todd, very nicely made

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/Suba%20mount_zpsj6dmotgi.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/Suba%20mount_zpsj6dmotgi.jpg.html)

I welded in some tie down points to my torsion bar housing

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tiedown_zps1zvibfwf.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tiedown_zps1zvibfwf.jpg.html)

I used 1 3/4 roll cage tube to make new chassis forks and bracing

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pan.7_zpsjwaz1r0i.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pan.7_zpsjwaz1r0i.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pan.6_zps9qwmfgse.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pan.6_zps9qwmfgse.jpg.html)

A forum member VWCool supplied me with some laser cut flat floors

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pan.8_zpskmlcwjkw.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pan.8_zpskmlcwjkw.jpg.html)

bought some heavy duty tie rods from Lanner at Veedub engineering, they are much stronger than the tie rod ends

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tie%20rods_zpsg1nvp390.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tie%20rods_zpsg1nvp390.jpg.html)

I had a new exhaust made and used a 3 inch Varex muffler http://www.xforce.com.au/products/varex-mufflers

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/new%20rear%20view_zpsnymsa83y.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/new%20rear%20view_zpsnymsa83y.jpg.html)

I've done a mudguard air intake like Jak and Ricola I think it turned out quiet good, the mudguard is painted now but I don't have a picture of it.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/mudguard%20intake_zpsg7llfzam.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/mudguard%20intake_zpsg7llfzam.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/air%20intake_zpshxckpcdk.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/air%20intake_zpshxckpcdk.jpg.html)

Top view of the motor, the air intake feeds into a BMC Oval Trumpet air filter

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/top%20view_zpspdzijvhb.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/top%20view_zpspdzijvhb.jpg.html)

My weight saving in the chassis must have worked as the car sits a 25 mm higher on the same spring plate angle

Steve

[Jadewombat]

Great stuff. Not meant as a criticism, but the flat floor pans, won't those be noisy without the factory-like bends? I've always been interested in smoothing out the underside of a bug like you've done though.

The tailpipe out of the stock rear apron looks great!

[Wally]

The new chassis forks and bracing is a work of art!
Very impressive!

[Steve C]

Hi

Thanks guys, dont mind my crappy welding.

The car has just had another 98 and E85 flex tune at DVS, it previously made 277 kW on 22 psi, the Garret GTX 30 76 turbo was a bit laggy and didn’t come on until 5,000 rpm so I had to rev it to 8,000 to avoid dropping off boost between gears.

The turbo originally came with.82 Subaru specific rear housing, I’ve now gone to a Tial .63 V band rear housing.

The car now makes 282 kW on 27 psi but it has picked up 60 kW in the midrange so it will be much more drivable, I haven’t weighed the car yet but its sitting about 25 mm higher than before so it has lost some weight with the chassis mods, now I need to do the same thing. The Tomei PON cams are still not making any difference in the tune, the motor actually lost power when they were first fitted.

I’ve heat wrapped the exhaust up pipe and dump and fitted a turbo beanie, I’ve heat wrapped the coolant out pipe it now passes under the intake manifold where turbo intake was previously located, I used to run my intercooler water lines to the front of the car down the middle of the chassis, I’ve now located them under the right running board and the straight section is now made from 19mm aluminium tubing the flexible part is 19 mm fire hose.

I haven't driven it yet as I had a bit of heart issue, no heart attack but after an angiogram I had 3 stents put in.

Steve

my mate Brad did one of his signature screamer pipes off the 45mm Turbosmart Hypergate

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/screamer_zpsdblgxqal.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/screamer_zpsdblgxqal.jpg.html)

I used an existing larger size up pipe with an extra pipe to lift the and twist the turbo

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/up%20pipe_zps33rdikph.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/up%20pipe_zps33rdikph.jpg.html)

V band 3 inch dump

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/3%20inch%20dump_zpsaawmoi3c.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/3%20inch%20dump_zpsaawmoi3c.jpg.html)

[Steve C]

I was hoping for more but I took it up with engine covers so the tuner was worried about getting hit in the head with a car part if he pushed it any further, still more left in the turbo if I need any more but with improved midrange and the weight reduction its should keep me happy for a while.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DVS%20Feb17_zpsdsrpam1k.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/DVS%20Feb17_zpsdsrpam1k.jpg.html)

[Wally]

Interesting!

282 kW is at the wheels I presume? Thats 383 hp at the wheels, which is about 430 crank hp (+12% average for that gearbox i think) at 27 psi. Seems low for that turbo, engine and boost setting..(?)

It also still seems laggy, even without RPM at the x-axis. Do you also have the RPM dynosheet?

Seems another issue causing the laggy-ness I think? Wastegate control? Pre-turbo leak? The latter may also effect the total hp.. and could be detected with a speed sensor, but not many people use those ;-)

[graham]

Nice Progress Steve..

Good to see you have those stents fitted :goodjob:

[Steve C]

Hi

282 kW pretty good for a 2 litre motor. I hurt a piston at an event on the weekend, Im going 2.1 fully forged motor now.

Steve

[Wally]

Hi

282 kW pretty good for a 2 litre motor. I hurt a piston at an event on the weekend, Im going 2.1 fully forged motor now.

Steve

Ah, 2 litre, that explains a lot. I agree, then the torque plots looks much more logical. Sorry, I had forgotten that.
Sorry to hear about the piston hurt. Fully forged definately seems like the way to go with these hp levels ;)

[Steve C]

Hi

OK motor is stripped, burnt piston and a twisted conrod, so stroker crank forged rods and pistons and doweled water jackets. The stroker should be good to bring on the turbo sooner and it will be able to revved higher so I will have a broader powerband, same motor combo is good for 400 kW at the wheels in AWD drive cars.

Steve

[petevw]

Whoa, nice build!

[Wally]

Nice updates! Still on the GRX3076R ?

[Steve C]

Thanks Petevw

Still the same GTX3076R turbo but with the .63 rear housing, not long now

[Wally]

Thanks Petevw

Still the same GTX3076R turbo but with the .63 rear housing, not long now

There's your limit I think.

[rioprelude]

Hey Steve, how is your build going?

[Steve C]

Hi

Its good to be back, thanks to everyone that worked to get the site going again. I will need to fix my photos up that are hosted on Photobucket

A lots been happening with my bug. I had the car back on the road for a few days and bent a rod, my fault, I got a bit carried away and drove it through a missfire.

So its a fully forged strocker motor, 2.5 crank, Argo rods, Manley pistons etc 2142cc it made 305 kW on 29 psi, Tomei cams are now responding to tuning thanks to a new ECU, it also made 200kW at just 4,500 rpm, the torque is amazing.

I also fitted an Accusump and Radium fuel rails and dampener.

Ive loaded a dyno photo, not sire if it will work, Red blue green 3 boost settings. Pink is old setup

Steve

[Steve C]

PS, photo loaded OK so I will load some more and update old posts

[Steve C]

A few extra photos, Accusump

[Steve C]

Radium fuel rails and fuel dampener

[Steve C]

Hi

After my Beetle crashed into my sons Beetle we did an update on it, Aero kit the same as mine, he borrowed my wheels for a while. Were building Oxy boxer for it, 82x94, Street elims, 48 IDFs dry sump etc

[Wally]

Nice car for sure!
Steve, what is the benefit of a fuel damper?

[H2OSB]

Two amazing looking cars! Love the idea of the oxyboxer. Unfortunately for me, I can't install an oxy for the same reason I can't do a Suby mill...don't have the guts to cut up my car. Maybe if I could just find the right radiator set up.....

[Steve C]

Hi

I needed a fuel pulse dampener because Im running ID 2000 injectors and when they open & shut they cause a chatter in fuel line which causes a rough idle.

http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-In-line-Kits-P751.aspx

John, the idea of going Oxyboxer is that will be essentially an air cooled motor, a WBX with no water jackets.

When I sold my 1302 and fitted an air cooled motor in place of the WBX all I had to do was fit a new spare wheel well to get it back to standard.

Steve

[H2OSB]

John, the idea of going Oxyboxer is that will be essentially an air cooled motor, a WBX with no water jackets.

Steve

I knew that. I guess I gapped out a bit. I was looking into an Oxyboxer crank into a T1 for a while, but I've gone pretty far down the T4 road, so I decided to stick with that. The jacketless WBX makes a nice motor, I just don't have any of whats needed to build one and don't feel like cutting my losses with the T4 parts.

Anyway, both you and CaveDarter have nice rides!

H2OSB

[Wally]

tnx! learned somethink again :-)
You run E85 now (because of the 2000cc injectors)?

[Steve C]

Hi

I do run E85 but I have a flex fuel sensor so I can run 98 RON if I have to but I have two E85 servos about 5 ks from my house and a few up and down the highways.

My son Dave AKA Cave loves his bug, have you seen this video of him? https://www.facebook.com/NittoTyres/videos/1762012700536507/ He works in marketing with Toyo and Nitto tyres, he convinced me to fit Toyo R888Rs to my bug, hes running Nitto Invos on his bug and Im also running them on my 180SX.

I also fitted an eBay intake temp sensor, seems to be accurate.

Steve

[graham]

Great to see your back at it Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

I had a little mishap with the motor but it was fixed under warranty, it picked up a big end bearing.

I'm going to do a 1/2 mile run in September at Gunnedah in rural NSW Australia on the 1st of September, I cant wait.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

Just got back from running the 1/2 mile at Gunnedah, I won my class and finished 37 out of 80 cars, ran at 231 kph

the runway at Gunnedah is very bumpy near the end, I think Im going to look at some front aero, it was getting a bit hairy at about the 700 metre mark and the car squatted the rear the whole length of the track

not sure if this video will play https://www.facebook.com/davejcarter/videos/10157671811864908/?t=0 I ran over some cement dust in this run and I thought it was clutch smoke so lifted off

I put a new radiator in the week before the event, it worked perfectly, I used one from a 944 Porsche, really nice fit, thanks to boys at Westside for helping out again with fan mounts.

with my intercooler temp gauge I was able to keep an eye intake temps, we used the Frozen Boost ice box and I again short circuited it to cut out the front mounted radiator, at the finish line intake temps were 90c after the turbo and 22c after the inter cooler, I was leaving the line with after cooler temps of around 18c

We setup the launch control and on the first run I fried the clutch, I nearly put it on the trailer but I let cool down and then I granny shifted it from then on.

So Im going to get hold of a front air dam, put a larger ear housing on my GTX3076 turbo as I went from a .82 to .63 trying get some better response when it was a 2 litre motor so I will go back to a .82 rear and go for some more kWs and of course I will see what I can do about a clutch, the Aussie dollar has gone south against the greenback so I will try something local if not I will see what Kennedy can do

[Wally]

Great result Steve! The bigger motor should be able to use the bigger turbine A/R without too much - if at all- added lag, me thinks.
GL with the clutch.

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, going to give the 1/4 mile a go tomorrow night if the weather holds. I still have the 15 inch cookies on with the ET streets

[Steve C]

Hi

The 1/4 mile go trained out, I will try again to have run in few weeks.

I wrote an article for club magazine about the event

½ Mile racing at Gunnedah Airport
On the 1st of September I ran my Beetle at the Race Revolution ½ mile at Gunnedah Airport , I had previously run a similar event at Cooma Airport over 1000 metres in 2014 and 2015. Cooma Airport didn’t want to have the event held there anymore so the organisers had to find a new venue. The new ½ mile distance was chosen as it’s an international distance used by other land speed racing bodies and Gunnedah Airport didn’t have the required slow down area at the end of the racing surface for 1000 metre racing.

I’ve had a few issues with my Beetle like running into walls and breaking motors but I managed to get it running in time to run at Gunnedah. While it was off the road the Subaru WRX STI (EJ207) motor was bored and stroked to 2165cc and made 305 kW at the wheels when tuned by DVS on the Central Coast at Somersby. Because the motor is turbo charged it had to run in the classic class 2D for vehicles between 3000cc and 5000cc.

Gunnedah like the rest of NSW is in severe drought so it was good to travel there and spend some money in local businesses; some businesses that sell alcohol received a fair bit of my money. The event organisers nominated a local charity “drought relief for kid’s fundraiser”, many racers including myself donated to this cause.

So after spending lots of time putting my Beetle back together I also had to finish putting my car trailer back together which I had taken off the road to refurbish. We left Friday morning for the drive up to Gunnedah towing an untested car trailer, good planning and workmanship prevailed and we arrived to a very wet Gunnedah airport, a friend of mine Andrew who is also a heretic and drives a Subaru powered 71 Fastback travelled up with us, we met up with another VW racer Glenn Torrens in his salt racing L bug (1303S). After having the car scrutineered we went and checked into our accommodation and then went into town for some refreshments.

Saturday, race day was fine and was ideal for racing with light winds all day. I have an Adaptronic Modular ECU in my car which not only controls fuel, reads and adjusts tune according to E85 concentration and ignition but can be used to operate launch control. On my first run with launch control activated I rolled up to the start line, put my foot down flat and the car went to 5,000 rpm and made 2 psi boost, as the car moved forward the launch control disengages via signal from a speed sensor in the transmission and full RPM can be achieved which on this day was set at 7,300 RPM. I got a bit exited and fried my clutch, I came back into the pits and was going to put the car on the trailer but my son convinced me to let it cool off and give it another run without launch control.

After everything cooled off I was able to do 4 more runs taking it easy and win my class and finished 37 out of 80 cars, best run was at 231 kph and 19.5407 seconds.

The runway at Gunnedah is very bumpy near the end, I think I’m going to look at some front aero, it was getting a bit hairy at about the 700 metre mark and the car squatted the rear the whole length of the track even with short 30 mm torsion bars. I ran the car on 15 inch Porsche Cookie cutter wheels with street tyres on the front but Mickey Thompson ET Street drag tyres on the rear, I normally run on 18 inch Porsche wheels so the car sat a lot lower than normal, I also fitted a V Force whale tail to the car for the event.

I put a new radiator in the week before the event after it got a little warm driving back from the VW Spectacular, it worked perfectly, I used one from a 944 Porsche, really nice fit, thanks to the boys at Westside Mufflers, a VW Nationals sponsor for helping out again with welding fan mounts to the radiator and turning my stupid ideas into metal once again.

I have an intercooler temp gauge in the car which shows in and out temperatures, I was able to keep an eye on intake temps, I use a Frozen Boost ice box which I fill with ice and I short circuited it to cut out the front mounted radiator which I run on the street to cool the PWR water to air intercooler, at the finish line my intake temps were 90c after the turbo and 22c after the inter cooler, I was leaving the line with after inter cooler temps of around 18c and there was still ice in the system after the run.

So I’m going to get hold of a front air dam, put a larger rear housing on my GTX3076 turbo as I went from a .82 to .63 rear housing trying get some better response when it was a 2 litre motor so I will go back to a .82 rear housing and go for some more killer wasps and of course I will see what I can do about a clutch, the Aussie dollar has gone south against the greenback so I will try something local if not I will see what Kennedy Engineering who supplied my current clutch can do.

So as far as I’m aware I hold the ½ mile land speed record for an under 5000cc Beetle in Australia

Steve

[Steve C]

I just uploaded a video of my best run on the 1/2 mile, you can see Im granny shifting and without launch control it didnt make any boost off the line, its making full boost when you hear the screamer https://youtu.be/ZM1qHUNbBw4

[Wally]

I just uploaded a video of my best run on the 1/2 mile, you can see Im granny shifting and without launch control it didnt make any boost off the line, its making full boost when you hear the screamer https://youtu.be/ZM1qHUNbBw4
Nice! So, an even better speed would be very possible? :cool:
You are indeed granny shifting! Short shifter kit would help also I think?

BTW, what RPM are you at the timed 231 km/h?

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally

I was taking it easy I didnt want to harm the clutch by getting into too early after shifting.

Do you know anywhere I can buy a short shifter at reasonable price

According to a gear ratio calculator I would have been doing 6187 rpm, I was shifting at around 7,000. The gearing was short because of the 15 inch wheels I was running

The rev limiter was turned down to 7300 rpm because of the small turbo

[Wally]

I can't remember the exact name of the short shift kit I got for it many years ago, but it sounded like J-West or s/th. At Pelican parts in the US you can find it in their webshop. Its the only one at reasonable price afaik.

6100 over the line and 7300 limit seems like there is room for a much, much higher speed :D

[Steve C]

Hi

I had my car corner weighted and 4 wheel aligned few months ago, it was all over the place, it took them a few hours to do it, they asked me when adjusting height if I wanted to higher or lower, I said lower. I think it looks better.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

I've been having fun driving the Beetle around, I'm going to do Powercruise at Sydney Motorsport Park next month, after that I will pull the motor out and get a new clutch made.

I also just bought a Tial .82 rear housing, I'm getting GCG a local turbo place to do some magic on the cool side of the turbo and then I will go looking for some more kWs.

The Aussie dollar has really dropped so I bought the housing for a pretty good price from a local seller for $585 Aud

The smaller .63 rear housing was restricting it a bit.

Steve

[volkdent]

Looks awesome!

Jason

[Steve C]

Hi

I took my bug out to do a Supersprint at Eastern Creek before I removed the motor to do the clutch, I took it easy first run out only to find that my tyre gobbled up my mudguard air intake and that the motor started leaking oil from the right cam cover, I stopped running then and took it home as I didn't want drop oil on the track. I had a good look at the track to find the leak with no luck, I've since found that it was a leaky inlet cam actuator.

So I pulled the motor and found a rather scorched clutch plate. I sent the whole clutch and flywheel assembly to a very good place in Queensland about 1000 ks away. My son is into drifting and NPC do a lot of the drift car clutches. They found that the Kenndy pressure plate and flywheel just needed a grind but I have gone to one of their cushion button clutch plates.

So the motor is out now, I'm going to send the car away to have a 1/2 cage fitted that will tie into rear part of the chassis.

I asked for advice from a water cooled VW tuner when I made my air intake in the right mudguard about what sort of enclosed air filter to use. So I bought an Italian made BMC Oval Trumpet air filter, the VW tuner told me he was using these on 400 hp water cooled VWs.

You can see the BMC air filter in the top view of my engine

I sent an email to BMC asking what would be the upper limit of this air filter.

Their reply,
"It is difficult to answer. 307 kW is about 415 hp.

In the past we tested the OTAs on engines having the above power, but due to the huge quantity of air they needed, they were insufficient to power any engine.

The best result we achieved is around 300 hp = 180 rwKw.

Please take note that also other factors must be considered, such as for instance the load loss consequent to the installation.

Just to sum up, it is not only a matter of empirical power.

We eventually recommend the filer with PN ACCDA100-220-01."

My tuner was worried that he couldn't account for the air flow into the inlet at high speed so I'm pretty sure I'm going to use a Blitz Carbon Core but this time I will only have the air from my mudguard intake blowing on the filter inlet not physically connected as I did with the BMC unit .

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

As anybody knows who has added more contemporary parts to an old VW you know that you soon run out of places to fit things.

I'm running an in tank Walbro 460, I did suffer some fuel surge at the VW Nationals Supersprint so I'm now fitting a Taarks surge tank with another Walbro 460 inside, the Walbro pump in the fuel tank will now feed the Taarks surge tank.

One Walbro 460 is good for about 560 kW, if I need more fuel supply I can simply fit another pump inside the surge tank. Im aiming for 400 rwkW at the wheels so one 460 should be enough.

Steve

[Wally]

Nice surge tank!
I forgot: do you run E85 or gas?
400rwkW is something else!

Are you not worried with the current draw both these high power pumps consume? Any special measures for that neccesary

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

I'm on E85. My motor was built by Deschele Performance in Western Sydney to make 400 awdkW (ie Subaru awd). I made 305 rwkW on 29 PSI. I'm hoping that going from a .63 to a .82 and a better air intake will allow me make close to 400 rwkW, if not time for a new turbo.

The front pump will have little load and the pump in the surge tank has a 0 gauge battery cable going past it so I will run high power consumption relays on both pumps, I've moved my battery into the trunk/boot area. The surge tank is now in the stock battery location.

The motor is still out of the car, some of my sons drift friends build high end roll cage for all forms of motor sport and we are designing a cage for my car to comply with IHRA rules. Even though 1/4 mile racing is not my main focus they are the strictest rules of any motor sport that I wish to compete in.

I will be allowed to run down to 10.5 with a 1/2 cage with side intrusion bars, any quicker and I will need to go 6 point cage. The main issue is that the main hoop has to give me 6 inches of helmet clearance while still being perpendicular to the chassis, the base for the hoop leg is going to have to be a long way back in the car. I'e run a 12.1 with 220 rwkW. We are also tying the cage into the rear chassis area.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

Long time no post. Been playing with my new Jap car, a JZX110 while waiting get my bug back on the road.

My bug has been off the road for a while, first for a new clutch and then I decided to have a roll cage fitted.

Some of my sons friends have started a fabrication shop called Ministry of Fabrication, I had to wait a while for them to fit me into their schedule. Its a full cage, removable taxi bar, removable front legs and intrusion bars and being tied into the rear chassis forks. Its being done IHRA regulations, it will allow me to do down to a 8 second pass, I will be happy to get into the 10s but I thought I should all out just in case

[Flintstones]

It's getting busy in there!

[Steve C]

sure is, I can hang the washing out in the car

[Steve C]

Hi

Getting the car back this weekend, then I have to put it back together. Really happy with the cage, getting it signed off by the IHRA tech guy soon. It will be certified to do a 8.00 pass, I will be happy to get into the tens.

Steve

[Wally]

Looks strong indeed, good call to have this done!
Does it feel stiffer as well?

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

I haven't driven it yet, getting inspected tomorrow night by the IHRA tech guy then I can put it back together, motor is out of the car so that they could work around tying the chassis to rear of the car

[Steve C]

Hi

Just had the car inspected by the IHRA guy, passed with flying colours, he was very impressed with how it was done, needs another inspection with the car ready to race with all safety gear etc then it is able to go down to a 8.00. pass. I will be happy to get into the 10s.

When I first thought about having a cage fitted I wanted to stiffen up the chassis. When built the car I had to make new top shock mounts so that I could lay the shocks over to clear the axles as the motor and trans are 100 mm forward. Ministry of Fabrication tied the cage into the extended shock mounts.

[Steve C]

I was running some Toyo R888R on the street, 225 40 x 18 & 245 40 x 18, great tyre but a little stiff. Iv'e now fitted these tyres to some hollow spoke twist wheels for track days.

So now I'm going to run some Nitto Invos in 225 40 x 18 and 265 35 x 18.

I also had the wheels repainted while they were off the car, same colour

[DORIGTT]

Steve,

What width wheels are you using for street, and track use?

Also, are you using this car as a track vehicle only? I ask because of the potential 'soft' skull - DOM steel tubing interactions may leave one...brain dead from what I'm told.

[Steve C]

Hi

The wheels I used to run on both track and street are in my post with Invos fitted. They are 18x8 and 18x10 from a Boxster. I've fitted my front 225x18 R888R to genuine 18x7.5 hollow spoke twists and I went down to a 235x18 Toyo R888R fitted to genuine 18x8 hollow spoke twists for track work.

I've fitted the 245x18 R888R that I used to run on the rear to some crappy Porsche wheels that I have , the plan is to use these at roll racing or the drags. I also have a pair of 18x245 ET streets that are also on some crappy wheels that I can use for roll racing or drags.

I'm a bit of a wheel collector, I also have a set of Simmons OM in 18x8 and 18x9.

And if I feel I need more acceleration I also have a set of 15x6 Cookie cutters with front street tyres and 205 ET streets.

The cage with be padded with FIA approved padding soon

[Wally]

Cool pics Steve, thanks!
I still like your mod to move the whole engine & trans combo 100mm forward. Huge undertaking, but it all makes a difference I'am sure.

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, lots of welding and cutting.

Looks like I have to use a 1/4 inch steel flywheel scatter shield. I tried searching and of course your build thread came up. I started looking through the 104 pages on your build and gave up.

Do you have any information and photos about your flywheel scatter shield?

[Wally]

Looks like I have to use a 1/4 inch steel flywheel scatter shield. I tried searching and of course your build thread came up. I started looking through the 104 pages on your build and gave up.


:lmao:

These I still had on my phone:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49668817262_00f82ae1f4_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49668817287_c97c5618b8_k.jpg

Basically my buddy bend some 6mm thick and 10cm wide plate round the G50, which I welded to my old tranny cradle. Its heavy, but as you said, mandatory to run at most drag race tracks under 11.9 sec iirc.
For circuit use I can unbold the top section, which then saves some weight.

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, really useful photos and information.

I'm using a Subarugears mount and factory Subaru engine mounts. I could weld the lower part to to the Subargears mount

[H2OSB]

Steve--

Bit off topic, but what block is that? Any issues with the open deck and being boosted?

JohnL

[Steve C]

Its a spare block that I borrowed from a local Subaru shop to mock up my chassis, not sure what type. My my EJ207 block is semi closed now

[H2OSB]

That's what I suspected(mock up only). Though I believe the WRXs here in the states originally came with boosted, open deck EJ22s, like your mock up block. My LegacyGT had an EJ255 which, like the EJ257s in the U.S. spec STIs are semi-closed deck. I don't know much about the JDM spec engines you guys get in Oz. I was only asking because I ASSumed with the power you make in your 1303 you would start with a semi-closed deck, though I don't even know if it's necessary.

Have you ever seen one of the closed deck blocks from the original 2.0L(or was it 2.2L) Subaru turbo engines? Supposedly They can take some serious boost.

[Steve C]

Hi

Started on the scatter shield today, rain and lack of welding gas stopped progress. Thanks to Wally for sending me some photos of his shield, it really helped. I had a local engineering shop roll me up a circle.

My motor is a EJ207, the very reputable engine builder was worried about cooling in my setup so he made the closed deck with dowels not a fully closed deck. His instruction were with tuning to limit boost to 30 psi and AWD rwkW to 400.00, I made 305 rwkW but I've gone to a bigger rear housing on my GTX3076 and I've altered my air cleaner which was choking the motor. If I'm not happy with the results of the next tune I will change turbo.

I have a Toyota JZX110 as my daily and the GTX would work well on that. Its a cool daily, photo added. Factory manual 2.5 litre 1J and I've added 3 inch turbo back exhaust and Greddy front mount

[Steve C]

Hi

Been doing some test drives, wrapped in the new clutch, so progressive unlike the organic Kennedy that I was running, off to the tuner soon for more kWs

[Wally]

Hate to admit, but that Toyota IS a cool car indeed. Dont think we had those over here.

As for clutches, both pressure plate (#lbs) and disk material and construction add to the harshness in my experience. Then again, I’am probably used to “race” clutches by now as my very experienced inspector stalled my car 5 times parking it on the lift 😆

[Steve C]

Thanks Wally, I love my Jap car, great cruiser and very comfortable. We never had them in Australia either, they are whats called a grey import from Japan, nice to have air conditioning in summer

My motor was so easy to stall with the old clutch, and it stunk with the slightest slip when parking etc

My scatter shield

[Steve C]

Hi

Just got the car back from the tuner, I was hoping for more but it looks like I may have reached the limit of the current setup. Its still scary fast.

Now I waiting for the drag strip to open so that I can have the approval on my cage ticked off.

Steve

[Wally]

Hi Steve,
Nice runs!
This is 319 KW at 30psi boost at the rear wheels, right?
That would be 480-ish crank hp then?
Not bad, but I agree, but I would have expected a little more as well at that boost level.
What limit do you or dyno guy think is holding it back?

[Steve C]

Hi Wally

I've only driven it low boost so far, I've now gone back to street tyres, Nitto Invos 225/40 x 18 and 265/35 x 18 and its rolling on in 1st and 2nd, it didn't do this on the Toyo R888rs.

The tuner was non committal on what was robbing power, I will talk to the engine builder soon to see what he suggests. I'm going to see if there is pressure drop across the intercooler.

I think I have enough power for the time being.

Steve

[DORIGTT]

Steve,

I've got a few questions for you...

Would you run the same sized Toyos?

How are your tire temps / optimal grip with the 225 / 265 combination?

Those sizes strictly for looks/fit the wheels you picked or traction for that power?

Thanks my friend.

[Steve C]

I went that size in Toyos to get heat into them, my son with a 1904cc Type 1 motor had trouble getting them up to temp on his car and he is a much better driver than me, all the drifting practice I guess.

I've now fitted the 225 Toyos and some new 235 Toyos to some Hollow Spoke wheels, I haven't driven on the rears yet.

I would suggest for track going to as small a tyre as you can to get heat into them, if you find them wearing too quickly you could go up a size, my son works for Toyo / Nitto so I get family prices

I've run 215/40s on the front and 255/35 on the rear that looked right, Toyo ? Nitto only make a 225/40 but I found that the front tyre always looked taller that the rear which to me looks wrong, that's why I went 265/35 this time, so I suppose it is looks

I went back to street tyres as I found the R888rs a little bumpy on the street, BTW all sizes are 18s

[Steve C]

With all the Covid closures the local drag strip has decided to resurface the strip so I still haven't had the final tech inspection on my cage

I've entered a roll racing event at the Sydney Motorsport Park this coming Friday but the weather predictions aren't too good for that night.

I've fitted up my Mickey Thompson ET Streets for the event on some 18x9 Simmons OM wheels, they a 2454/40x18. Took it it for a kebab run the other night, they are hooking up nicely even though they have been sitting next to my garage unused for about 5 years

[Bogara_ZO]

With all the Covid closures the local drag strip has decided to resurface the strip so I still haven't had the final tech inspection on my cage

I've entered a roll racing event at the Sydney Motorsport Park this coming Friday but the weather predictions aren't too good for that night.

I've fitted up my Mickey Thompson ET Streets for the event on some 18x9 Simmons OM wheels, they a 2454/40x18. Took it it for a kebab run the other night, they are hooking up nicely even though they have been sitting next to my garage unused for about 5 years

Looks good, Steve 👍

[Steve C]

Thanks. Roll racing was postponed due to wet weather until 21st August

[Steve C]

finally got to go Roll Racing

https://youtu.be/oGQKTZghi0E

[Steve C]

Hi

I've been talking to my local Subaru tuner and AWD Subarus with similar specification motors to mine are making 360 - 380 kW at all four wheels.

I've been thinking that there must be a restriction somewhere in my setup, I'm running a Varex muffler and a water to air intercooler.

My ECU has an exhaust pressure map sensor so the other night my son and I did some extensiveness testing.

So 290kpa inlet, 350kpa exhaust On 25psi (eboost), so 1:1.2 which is quite acceptable.

We also checked pressure drop across the intercooler which was about 3 psi.

So now that I'm confident that my setup is not causing issues I'm going back for a touchup tune with some more timing and boost as suggested by the Subaru tuner.

Steve

[Wally]

🤞🤞

[Steve C]

Fitted up my track wheels with Toyo R888R on them to see how they would look. They are genuine hollow spoke 7.5x18 50 ET and 18x8 52ET

[H2OSB]

Gorgeous Steve. What side mirrors are those?

[Steve C]

Thanks.

They are local XY Ford Falcon mirrors that I modified to fit, they look cool but are a bit small. A link to a local website that sells them https://www.fordmuscleparts.com.au/search?keyword=mirror

I cut the bolt on base off and and had it welded up and I used the the stubs from VW mirrors so that I didn't need to drill any extra holes.

The people standing with my car, are me and Dinos son Valentino, then Dino who is a member on here and another friend of mine Barry.

I organise a VW cruise on the 1st Friday of the month (Der Erste Freitag) at Harry's Cafe De Wheels

[Steve C]

Weighed my wheel collection the other day
6 inch Cookie cutters with 205/50 x 15 Mickey Thompson ET street et = 15.7 kg.
6 inch Cookie cutters with 185/55 x 15 street radials 13.8 kg
Hollow spoke twist 8 inch with 235 40 x 18 Toyo R8888R = 20.5 kg
Hollow spoke twist 7.5 inch with 225 40 x18 Toyo R8888R = 19.7 kg
Boxster 5 spoke 8 inch with 225 40 x 18 Nitto Invos = 21.2 kg
Boxster5 spoke 10 inch with and 265 35x18 Nitto Invos = 22.4 kg
3 piece Simons OM 18x9 with 245 40x18 Mickey Thompson ET Streets 22.8 kg

[Steve C]

Hi

Another day another dyno run

This was on a hub dyno, same tune that made 319 rwkWon rollers made 350 rwkW on the hub, difference being no wheelspin. The dyno operator confirmed cars that don't wheelspin make just about identical power on both his Mainline dynos

The dyno guy didn't have 5x130 hub flanges so I bought these 130 to 114.3 adaptors from eBay

[Wally]

Nice results again!
At what boost pressures are those lines? Green line is 14,7psi or so?

He's missing out a lot of work not being able to dyno 5x130 haha!

[Steve C]

Low boost was about 22psi.

interesting point, same tune that was on rollers made 319 and on the hub 350, so just 1 psi of boost and more timing it made 32 rwkW more.

The waste gate is fully closed now at 31 psi so out of turbo which is what I wanted to achieve

[Steve C]

I've been running 245/40 x 18 Mickey Thompson ET streets, these were 2nd hand and pretty old and the side walls don't have a lot of give.

A local speed shop had a special on some M&H 245/55 x 15 drag radials.

There was no 15 inch Porsche factory wheel that would work because my wheel bolt face is pushed out a long way by my 944 trailing arms so I had a pair of 15x6 Cookie cutters widened on the inside to 8.25 inch to take these tyres. They worked out at ET 65.

My local tyre guy did a finger balance rather than a cone balance for me

[Wally]

Nice! I had the same done to a set of 5,5Jx 15 spare wheels towards 7,5J. Was meant for 24x8 drag tires full slick.
Let us know how you like those pls!

[Steve C]

Nice! I had the same done to a set of 5,5Jx 15 spare wheels towards 7,5J. Was meant for 24x8 drag tires full slick.
Let us know how you like those pls!

they would have looked really cool.

[wouter1303]

Nice meaty tyres! And i like the solution you did on the rims of the cookies.

[Steve C]

Thanks, it wasn't cheap but neither was buying 3 piece rims so that I could get the correct offset.

I did feel a little guilty having genuine Porsche wheels modified, I'm over it now

[wouter1303]

Here in the Netherlands a lot of genuine Porsche rims are massacred for the auto cross (widened and narrowed). And after some beating they will end up in the trashcan.....
So don't feel guilty ;)

[Steve C]

I took my Beetle out to Powerplay on the weekend, fitted up the new M&H for a few heat cycles (skids)

[Steve C]

Hi

Finally got a dry Wednesday night so I took my bug out to the drags.

Getting used to launching and shifting gears again, I need some improvement.

I was getting some wheel hop which I'm sure caused me to break a drive shaft. I need to tie the motor and trans down a bit better

Its a custom drive shaft, modified 944 with a 930 CV flange welded on. The guy who made them cant do anything for 5 weeks so I'm trying to organise getting one done so that I can run at the VW Nationals Supersprint.

If anybody knows of someone that could help with welding and machining let me know.

Best ET was 11.803 and best MPH 124.29

[volkdent]

Ouch! Sorry you ran into issues!

Jason

[petevw]

oofffff, done that before on a trans output shaft.

[Steve C]

Hi

I had some new billet 944 stub axles made in in EN26.

Im fitting some Subaru Group N engine mounts when they turn up from Japan and Ive fitted Superpro urethane bushes to the front engine mount cross member. Hopefully this might help my wheel hop issue

[wouter1303]

That are some nice pieces sir!