My other 1303 GL [Archive] - GermanLook Forums

Steve C

January 12th 2011, 08:15

Hi

I've been putting in some late nights getting my bug finished.

I haven't taken any more progress shots but I will post some of the earlier information on the car.

I originally had a 1302, I bought it 2nd hand in 1973 when it was 6 months old. I evolved this car with a turbo 2.1 Wasserboxer, 944 rear end and with brakes I've now fitted to my new 1303.

John Polden the original owner of the my "new" 1303 and I worked together for some time at a Sydney performance VW shop called Powertune. We have remained friends over the last 30 odd years and when John decided to move to Queensland Gold Coast I was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time to obtain this car. The was sold to V Force and stripped of its goodies then Richard at V Force gave me the rolling shell.

I've kept a lot parts from my 1302, brakes, suspension, seats, cooling system parts etc. Rather than use the water-cooled Transporter engine again, I have purchased 2003 Subaru WRX STI engine which has only done 13,000 kilometres to fit to my new project. 195 kW+ from the factory should make for an interesting ride. In place of the modified Type 1 box I'm now using a G50.

John Polden the original owner of my 1303 competing at Amaroo and Silverdale Hillclimb in the early 1980s, it was a street car then, running a 2180 cc Type 1 motor with 48 IDAs, it gained many FTDs at various speed events and it used to do the 1/4 in mid 13s back in the early 1980s. John later fitted a Mazda 12a rotary motor that first saw duty in a Group C touring car, John then ran the car as a sports sedan. The Beetle was put in his shed in 1985, when John decided to move to Queensland he sold the car to V Force, then I acquired it from V Force.

Steve

Photos, yellow bug is my old 1302, blue bug is the one I'm rebuilding and is now orange

Steve C

January 12th 2011, 08:25

Hi

More history, sorry if I'm boring anybody.

This car had not been driven since 1983 and was virtually rust free, I acquired this car in 2002 and then brought it home in September 2004 after it had been sitting in a friends shed, I had sold my yellow 1302 earlier in 2004, I always wanted a 1303.

The previous owner had fitted rack & pinion from a 75 bug. and cutout the spare wheel area to house a radiator.

Steve

Steve C

January 12th 2011, 08:33

Hi

More old photos.

My STI motor had only travelled 13000 ks and my G50 came from a low mileage Jap import.

I moved the motor and transmission forward 100mm, had to cut the torsion housing and I ended up using 40 hp length 26 mm sway away torsion bars, I had a stroke of luck, the G50 shift rod turned out to be exactly the correct length.

Steve

Steve C

January 12th 2011, 08:44

Hi

The G50 is very hard to keep stable on a jack, so I made this bracket to hold it on my jack.

I've used the stock G50 alloy mount, I welded some tabs onto the chassis for it bolt onto and I had move the mounting slightly using some aluminium blocks.

I cut the centre spline from 2 chassis and had an outer sleeve made

I welded the splines in with "rose bud" welds so that 40HP / 1500 Beetle length 26 mm torsion bars poked out the correct amount to mate up with 944 spring plates.

Steve

Steve C

January 17th 2011, 08:42

Hi

I'm trying to keep this build thread chronologically correct.

I will get to the newer stuff soon.

This is how the reinforcing started off on the torsion bar housing.

Steve

Steve C

January 17th 2011, 08:52

I widened the engine bay area around the bumper bracket, my motor has variable valve timing there is a huge lump on the left rear cam cover that I had to be careful to make room for.

These motors are real tight fit and are also a pain as they want to fall off the jack all the time, that's why I made motor dolly with wheels, even when the motor is sitting on the floor it wants to fall over onto the flywheel. You will notice that I have jack stands under the engine dolly, this is to prevent the weight of the motor tipping the car over backward, might not happen, just being careful, it actually did happen to me while fitting a motor to Notchback that no front-end in it.

Steve C

February 11th 2011, 19:48

I used this Bay Window Kombi transmission frame that I bought at the Valla swap for $5.00 to give some extra support for the transmission, this will also be useful to keep the transmission steady when the motor is removed.

Here you can see how close the cam covers come to the rear apron, even with the motor 100 mm forward.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 02:30

Hi

A friend had a had a PWR air 2 water inter cooler that he wanted to sell, as it was too big for his project. Its a 6 inch by 10 inch unit which is rated to 650 hp. Needless to say, its ideal for my car. I have mapped out the charge air path with green arrows.

I finished the inter cooler pipe work today, Brad a Westside Mufflers in Padstow did a great job with aluminium welding, I will only need to plumb in a blow off valve now. Now I can concentrate on getting a firewall made up to cover all this stuff up. It made it much easier working with everything exposed this way. The back seat will need to have a bit of a hump in it. I will be using the Grocco water pump from my old yellow car and a Subaru RX intercooler radiator in the front of the car. As you can see the charge air will have a very short path.

This is the Grocco water pump from the yellow bug, which I will be reusing to circulate the water in the inter cooler system.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 02:33

Hi

1303 or L bugs as they are called in Australia, have a history of body damage being caused when the circlip that holds the bonnet/hood falls off. To overcome this problem I drilled out the original circlip stud and fitted a bolt instead. This is fairly easy on passenger side, but on the drivers side I needed to cut a larger hole with a hole saw.

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 06:52

As Im running a bit of angle on my CVs I had the 944 stubs altered to take 930 CVs.

I was going to use some replica Porsche 17x7.5 23ET wheels that I bought on Ebay. The 23 ET is an unusual offset, I believe that these were made to suit early 911s and 944s as a 7 inch Fuchs or Cookie cutter has the same ET. So these wheels being a 7.5 they protrude an extra 6 mm each side of a 7 inch Fuchs.

On my old 1302 I used to run 7x16 23ET inch Fuchs on the front and 8x16 10.6ET on the rear. I know the fronts will be OK, so after adding in the wider track that the rear alloy 944 arms give me and doing some calculations with an online wheel offset calculator, I worked out that these wheels should fit OK. I did a trial fit today with an Aero mudguard held in place and it all looks OK.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 06:59

I planned to put a Beesting radio aerial on the roof from a late model VW, but I was worried about future access to the aerial.

On the later VWs it's possible to pull the hood lining down to repair or service the aerial. That's not possible with an old bug, so I came up with the idea making a frame that will sit under the hood lining but will accept a standard Beetle interior light, so if I need to service or replace the aerial I will only need to remove to interior light to gain access to aerial securing nut.

I had a friend make these pieces up to weld into the A&B pillars to give the body some strength. I made a cross brace between the B pillars, a bit like factory cabrios use.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 07:05

As I'm getting old and soft, I'm fitting air conditioning.

The evaporator will sit in this box behind the dash, I will need to move the radio, maybe to the bottom of the dash.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 07:12

Measuring up for some custom axles, had these wooden ones made from 30mm dowel

Brad (Westy) at Westside modified my Subi sump for me.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 07:24

Gotta love Ebay, I bought some 18 inch OM (open mesh) Simmons 8 & 10 inch wide wheels, these wheels were my end game, the 17 inch Turbo Twists were a temporary solution.

I have friend who is the approved Simmons repairer, he's about 2 suburbs away from me, we've already worked out what rims I need.

I want to go 7.5s or 8s on the front, and 8 or 9s on the rear. I'm going to call my engineer soon to see if I can run 9s on the rear, I know 8s are legal, but I'm using a 1987 Porsche 944 rear end and this may allow me to go a larger wheel legally, its all about exploring RTA rules and using them to your advantage.

The other thing that I don't like is that the front Simmons wheels have the centre protruding on the edges, I will be fitting a wider outer rim on the front wheels so this will sit back in more, just like the rears do now.

So I will need to change the inner and outer on the front wheels and the inner on the rears and get the centres painted silver.

I also bought on Ebay a month or so ago a single 18x8 in the same style, so I have 5 wheels. I sold the Turbo twists on Ebay

Tyres all fitted to the refurbished wheels. Tyres are Federal 595RS-R, street legal track tyres in 225/40 ZR18s and 255/35zr18s. I had to stay with 8x40ET all round to get the car approved for road use, the rear tyres are having a muffin top moment, I might get the rear wheels taken out to 9s after its all registered and on the road

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 07:44

Hi

After seeing the success that everyone is having with smaller radiators I ditched the massive one that I used in my old 1302 in favour of one from an 1983 Audi 100/200, I also already had a fan and housing from an earlier Audi 100 5E. it bolts up to that later radiator OK.

I'm happy to be going back to this Audi fan, when I used it last on my old 1302 bug, when it came on it was like blowing compressed air on the ground, chip packets, dust and sticks would blow everywhere.

The great thing about the Audi fan housing is the "speed flaps", the rubber flaps blow out at high speeds allowing more air flow over the core, when the fan comes on the flaps sit flat on the fan housing making sure than fan can draw the maximum amount of of air through the core

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 07:50

Hi

I know whale tails are not considered cool, but they do have a benefit, larger engine bay and better cooling, not mention increased downforce at high speeds. This tail also has a pod to force air into the air cleaner.

I've got the old familiar fibreglass itch, I had to cut the gills in the top.

There is another section to go on the top as well, this will be adjustable.

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 07:57

Hi

I also fitted some Toyota Kluger side markers to the front 1/4.

One of the jobs I needed to do is fit the new "air con" front apron. As can be seen it comes with pre-installed rust, that's why I like idea of Mexican seals. Our cars nver came with air con so we never had the vented front apron used on US bugs

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:01

Hi

I had the body soda blasted to remove the paint, I was very happy with the outcome, no surprises.

Its a very gentle process it even left the factory seam sealer in the drip rails, it wont remove rust or thick nicky.

This body has not been driven since 1983, there was no rust at all in the rear window area.

The finished photos don't do it justice, the finish looks like you see in the factory assembly line photos.

Old repairs can be seen as a different shade to the rest of the body.

I've just been around at the panel beaters rust treating all the bits I welded in firewall area with some product from Wurth, now on with pan.

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:09

Hi

In a previous life this car was sports sedan running a 12a rotary motor

Ther pan took a lot of work, there was about 18 holes where various things were mounted to the floor pan, roll cage, the muffler and battery were mounted on the passengers side floor with big hole in the floor where the muffler exited, these have now all been fixed up.

I had to call on expert help from Brad a Westside mufflers to weld up my alloy mirrors after I cut the attaching legs off. The mirrors need to be painted with rest of the car so Brad kindly fitted this fiddly job into his busy schedule. It was made fiddly because these early Falcon GT replica mirrors appear to be die cast and were bitch to weld.

I'm using the stock mirror mount holes and using cutdown stock mirror stalks, this way I can change mirrors without having to drill new holes in the door, I ran the same mirror stalks on my old yellow bug but with XA falcon (Mel Gibsons Road Warrior car) mirrors.

I'm fitting air con to the car, so the inlet grilles were welded up as well as the LHD wiper holes. The extra holes in the bulkhead is where the stock dash fan will draw in air.

Hows this for a rust free air box? I'm going to use the stock air box drain tube on the evaporator housing and I've fitted a smaller OD drain hose in case any moisture gets into the air box.

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:13

Hi

I relocated the brake master cylinder 30 mm to the drivers (right) side, this gives me enough room to fit a clutch master in next to it.

I now have to move the lever on the brake pedal over 30 mm as well and fit rose joint attachment to the clutch pedal to operate the clutch master cylinder.

I had Brad (aka Westy) weld some fittings on the tank. 1/2 outlet and and 2 x 3/8 return lines into the tank, while he was at it I got him to fill in the LHD part of the tank for some increased capacity, I think maybe 2 - 4 litres gain.

I bought this tank from a wrecker in about 2002 for my old yellow 1302, it was a genuine VW German replacement tank that looked almost new.

Steve

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:26

1st bit of paint on the body, I'm not sure if I said earlier but I went with Porsche blood orange after many test batches of paint ranging from purple to yellow.

I dug all the dreaded foam out of the shell, I've saturated the area with Lanolin and stuck wool offcuts in all the cavities.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:34

I had to chop the chassis up a bit to move the G50 forward 100 mm. I used 26 mm Sway away short torsion bars

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:40

A few more photos of the brake pedal setup.

I moved the brake master cylinder over to the right 30 mm so that I could fit the clutch master next to it.

Nothing was open over the new years break to buy anything decent to make the clutch m/c clevis with so I had make do with what I had.

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 08:51

Hi

Fitted some new rotors 930 turbo to my 996 rear brakes that I use on the front. I originally had extreme cross drilled rotors, I'm sure the engineer wouldn't have liked them, these rotors and hubs were originally on the Dak to the Future car.

I've also ran all new soft & hard brake lines. I'm thinking about moving my bake fluid reservoir down lower nearer to master cylinder along with the clutch master, I hate the tube arrangement that RHD bugs got.

Is this anal? I went and ran a torque wrench over all chassis bolts.

Steve

Photo explanation, all the brakes and some of the suspension were on my old yellow bug, the extreme cross drilled rotors when they were on my yellow 1302 bug

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 18:17

I lined the engine bay with some house type insulation and covered it with XR6 type insulation which I bought from Repco

Audi radiator fitted with the Subaru RS Liberty inter cooler radiator at the front

Steve C

February 12th 2011, 18:24

I cut the chassis fork away so much that I couldn't use the stock E brake cables, I used the 944 cable and hooked them up to a bug E brake lever, I made bracket that I welded to the chassis to secure the 944 cables

Craig S

February 12th 2011, 21:15

Good to see more of the history of this Beetle up now Steve, I look forward to seeing it in full flight shortly

wrenchnride247

February 13th 2011, 00:03

WOW! :shocked: Thats alot of updates all at once. Its looking very nice so far. Keep at it!

volkdent

February 13th 2011, 05:32

Looking really really nice! Keep us posted!

Jason

NO_H2O

February 13th 2011, 11:08

Lots of nice work. I still think you RHD guys have it made when it comes time to mount a clutch MC.

aircured

February 13th 2011, 11:53

Steve, looks awesome, keep the pictures coming. :eek:
Now if I could just get started, I'd be unstopable.... :lmao:

dub_crazee

February 13th 2011, 14:01

cracking car :D and love the colour choice lol

Steve C

February 15th 2011, 18:50

Hi Guys

Thanks for the kind words, still lots to do.

I decided at the beginning of this build to fit early Golf (later Mk1) switch gear and to mimic the wiring layout of the same model Golf with 16 fuses but the blade type.

The ignition switch / wiper & blinker switch housing fitted with a bit of fettling, the wipers feature electric pump activation and variable intermittent wiping and the blinker feature Euro parkers (side lights) i.e. when you leave the blinker on with the motor off the parkers come on, on that side of the car, not sure if this is a good idea or not.

The Golf switch gear feels much more modern as well. I also kept the old lock barrel and door handles from my old yellow bug when I sold the car as I had just fitted Audi lock mechanism to them, these feature reversible keys, as in you cant put the key in back to front, good when your getting old.

The mudguards I'm using are Aeros like I used on my old 1302, they take 911 headlights, I bought these headlights from Design 911 in the UK when the AU$ was OK against the pound.

Fuel system is a Carter lift pump with a Injection Perfection surge tank and a 044 main pump, the main pump is controlled by the factory Subaru boost sensitive pump speed controller, this area needs finishing off in the boot, I had to get the car running meet a local registration deadline.

Steve

Steve C

February 15th 2011, 18:57

Hi

I had my friend Westy make up a 3 inch exhaust for me. It has a high flow cat, 3 inch hot dog and dual pass muffler that has a 180 degree bend to turn the gases around again, its reasonably quiet.

Its a pretty trick bit of work and it only takes about 10 minutes to get off.

Steve

effvee

March 17th 2011, 21:29

I had to chop the chassis up a bit to move the G50 forward 100 mm. I used 26 mm Sway away short torsion bars

Ok then, now I know that I just should go for it. About a year ago I bought a rear axle housing I think the guy said it was from a station wagon. I won't need the axle tubes, but I still need the structure for safety reasons. The horns I won't need and I really won't a automatic. Man I am going to have my hands full. So longer axles and no more than 28 degrees on the CVs and I should be ok. Sand sport stated you could get 500 to 1000 turbo horses from a SVX wow. We just bought a house, now I can get started. So much money on the type IV engine. It's a good thing that I have three bugs:cool:

Steve C

March 18th 2011, 08:50

Hi

Ricola (user on here) did a similar thing to me, but much more well thought out than mine.

Steve

70Turbobug

March 19th 2011, 06:35

Nice project! Everything is well done,looks great!

Steve C

June 20th 2012, 07:38

Hi

I've been a bit slack with my bug, no excuses but frankly after the setbacks I had with our local registration people I lost interest.

I'm back into it now, I took the car out for an inspection by an accredited engineer. He only had verify that my brakes were OK.

Just a reminder of what I was using for brakes, I was using a stock 19mm master cylinder with, 996 rear callipers on the front with Porsche 930 rotors and 944 rotors on the rear with Boxster rear callipers.

I had used these very same brakes on my old 1302 and they worked fine. The accredited engineer found that my brake pedal was spongy when stopping from higher speeds, I've never driven the car faster than 80 kph, he was doing his tests from 100 kph.

There was two issues, he felt a bigger master cylinder was needed so I fitted a CSP 20.64, this improved the pedal dramatically, the other thing he pointed out was that at the spot where the brakes were meant to operate the pedal pivot point was going over centre.

This was caused by the master cylinder being slightly further away from pedal cluster owing to the thick plate I welded to chassis when I moved the master cylinder 25 mm away from the clutch pedal so that I could fit clutch master cylinder in next to the brake master cylinder.

I remade my brake pedal and pointed the pivot point a few degrees further back towards the driver.

So I took the bug out to have it rechecked, it passed with flying colours and using his very sophisticated testing equipment it recorded 1 G reading under brakes. The engineer will post me the report and then I can get this thing on the road.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/cspmc.jpg~original

I fitted much larger reservoirs

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/mcres.jpg~original

cookvw

June 20th 2012, 13:56

i just looked thru your build thread. awsome build. where can i get one of them rear spoiler/ whale tale wings? and how much?

Steve C

June 20th 2012, 17:13

Hi

Thanks coming from you that's a real compliment. I think I paid about $800 for the whale tail, you can get them hear http://www.beetleracing.com.au/home.html

Steve

A couple of camera phone pics

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/1303.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/13031.jpg~original

cookvw

June 21st 2012, 13:52

thanks, im no one special tho. just a young guy that loves tinkering with VW's. thats not a bad price for the wing. i just got done putting in a WBX 2.1 into my super. im soooo happy i did it too. now if i can just get the megasquirt issues i have figured out, id be really stoked!!! lol heres a pic of mine as it sits now. future plane are to put a suby wrx turbo on it, and intercooler, this winter will be body work and paint, then drive the hell outta it.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c153/cookvwgli/a1f8306a.jpg~original

ricola

June 22nd 2012, 10:20

Congratulations on getting through all the red tape Steve! Now get out there and scare yourself silly!

Rich

Joel

June 22nd 2012, 21:12

You would not believe the rings of fire they make us jump through to get modified cars here legalized but it does have it's good reasons.

Helps to ensure that the cars on the road have been modified in a safe manner.
It would be hard to feel safe out on the roads with some of the aborted backyard hacks I've seen people driving around overseas :shocked:

Steve C

October 10th 2012, 04:14

Hi

Well I finally have the green light from the powers that be.

The car is having blue slip inspection on Friday, this is a bit like an annual roadworthy inspection but a bit more detailed, then I pay about $1000 to the insurance company for 3rd party liability & the RMS (roads and maritime service) and then I can drive the car.

I have been trying to get the car passed since April this year, the car has undergone another two inspections by the RMS one to check that all defects have been cleared, over track, wheelbase too long, only one catalytic converter etc then an almost 2 hour inspection to make sure the body wasn't a Mexican one, they suspected this as I fitted new wind-up Mexican windows in the doors even after I pointed out to them that the other 6 windows contained Australian and German glass.

I cant wait to finish the car but I found a noise in G50 which will need to be attended to very soon before too much fun is had.

Steve

Dub_Life

October 10th 2012, 06:55

Hi Steve, man that sounds like a headache, and a lot more dollars, cant wait to do mine now. What did you change to overcome the wheelbase and track issues?

NO_H2O

October 10th 2012, 14:27

I am glad we do not have to not have to jump thru hoops like that here. Great to see it ready for the road.

Steve C

October 11th 2012, 01:00

Hi Steve, man that sounds like a headache, and a lot more dollars, cant wait to do mine now. What did you change to overcome the wheelbase and track issues?

Hi

I fitted caster bushes back to front and fitted K=Mac strut tops to fix the wheelbase issue, I was 30 mm over.

The rear track was the issue, it was only slightly over, I bought some $400 18x8 57 Et Porsche Cayenne alloys on eBay, these reduced the track by 34 mm.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/kmac3.jpg~original

Steve C

October 11th 2012, 03:27

Hi

I was going to leave my car overnight so it could be checked for the blueslip, the owner of the shop was worried about leaving the car overnight so he did the inspection on the spot.

Tomorrow I'm of to pay my money and then I can drive the car.

I've driven the car 50 or 60ks when I had to get it checked, never a problem, I was pulled up by the Highway Patrol on the way a home a few ks from my house.

I said to him I suppose you want to know why I have no number plates on the car, he said that and I wanted to have look at it.

I explained that I had just been for a blue slip, when he saw my name it turns out we knew each other 35 years ago and he was a VW head back then, small world but I live in the biggest city in Australia, not as big as other cities in the world but still freaky.

Part of the blue slip process was a brake test, the blue slip station is supposed to attach a special machine to car which measures speed, pedal pressure, deceleration etc.
Most guys can do this test sitting in their office chairs by swinging the machine a certain way. The place I took my car to has a floor mounted machine, you can see the plates in the photos.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/blueslip.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/blueslip1.jpg~original

al_kaholik

October 11th 2012, 10:01

Looking good, you must be very happy.

oasis

October 11th 2012, 13:46

... then an almost 2 hour inspection to make sure the body wasn't a Mexican one ...

I don't understand this. Mexico never manufactured or assembled a 1303 (or a 1302). :idunno:

Steve C

October 12th 2012, 23:28

Hi

oasis I know that VW Mexico never made 1302s or 1303s, I think most VW people do as well but the bureaucrats had to be satisfied, I had play their game. It all stemmed from me fitting 2 new wind up windows that were marked "made in Mexico"

The car is now legal to drive, so I'm tweaking a few suspension things at the moment.

Steve

oasis

October 29th 2012, 13:01

... but the bureaucrats had to be satisfied ...

I thought that was just something for us Yanks. ;)

I went through similar nonsense when registering my VW Pickup (Golf-based Caddy in other markets) several years back. The kicker was the stinking thing was actually built in Pennsylvania -- a neighboring state -- and they wanted to tag it as a special case working class truck as if it were some heavy duty 2-ton affair. After a crapload of documentation going back and forth, I finally got it registered as if it were a Ford F-150. Luckily, my insurance company still recognized it as basically being a Rabbit (Golf).

Steve C

October 29th 2012, 19:00

Hi

Oasis I think bureaucrats are world wide phenomenon.

One thing I forgot to mention, I've fitted inertia real seatbelts in the original VW location with reel axle running east west across the car, they sent me letter to say that my seatbelts were mounted incorrectly, thanks to the local VW community I was able to send them 10 photos of stock bugs with the seat belts mounted like I had done.

I'm using a Eboost 2 to control boost, what a great Aussie invention, I'm gradually turning the boost up and as Ricola suggested I'm scaring myself, what's amazing is I'm yet to get and wheel spin the tyres I'm using are street/race tyre and stick very well.

I'm loving the ratios of the G50, 1st gear is amazing, it just leaves all the traffic behind before a gear change is needed.

Steve

Steve C

October 29th 2012, 23:28

Steve C

November 18th 2012, 06:09

Hi

A I few goodies arrived last week.

A Griimspeed cross pipe, good for 5 HP and a AVO solid boost control solenoid.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/GScrosspipe.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/avo.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/avo1.jpg~original

Wally

November 20th 2012, 03:32

That ^^ doesn't seem like a solonoid but more like a original-style wastegate actuator with a more rigid bracket?
Neat thingy nevertheless ;-)

Steve C

November 20th 2012, 04:37

Hi Wally

Sorry I meant actuator

http://www.avoturbo.com/avoshop/solid-boost-actuatorbrvf-series-p-56.html

I read about using this actuator here http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1824/printArticle.html

Steve C

December 26th 2012, 06:13

Hi

I just went and had the car wheel aligned, I've been going to same wheel alignment shop for the last 40 years, same equipment is still in use.

The G50 transmission is out of a low kilometre Japanese import, it has a noise in it, so the gearbox will be removed soon to repair it, not happy as its so much fun to drive. I bought the transmission so long ago that there's not any hope of warranty.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/alignment_zpsd59d703b.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/alignment1_zps36d38858.jpg~original

Steve C

December 26th 2012, 06:28

Hi

Well gearbox is out and I took to Michael Newton Automotive at Mulgrave to get him to strip it down.

His shop is small but impressive, he had a few million dollars worth of Porsche track & and street cars sitting around.

He warned me that G50s are a noisy box anyway and as I've made it well mounted in the chassis that could be the cause of the noise.

So when he stripped down couldn't cant find anything wrong with it, he said that its in very good condition with none of the usual wear areas. So it appears that my noises are caused by my mounting method.

I have a stock G50 mount at the front of the transmission, two Kombi bellhousing mounts like a top mounted Berg style mount and stock WRX/STI mounts under the motor.

So I ordered a Quaife diff for it and he will replace a few bearings just to be sure and its better to setup a new diff with new side carrier bearings.

A used ZF diff was about $3500 the Quaife was about $1700 au

Its in good company at the shop as its full of Porsche Cup cars.

To get the gearbox out again, I had to remove the rear bumper, rear apron and partially remove the rear mudguards, not something I want to be doing too often

Although this will be an expensive exercise Im will feel more comfoatable now driving the car, I felt every noise coming from my G50 was it grinding itself to pieces

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/underbum_zps63c3b5f0.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/g50strip_zpsf6947429.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/quaifeg50_zpsf48b0cc1.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/mnshop_zps9751d0d6.jpg~original

Steve C

December 26th 2012, 06:34

Hi

My AVO solid boost control actuator had a manufacturing defect, when I pointed it out to them, they sent me an upgraded billet unit, great customer relations.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/avobillet_zps8d5a622d.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/avobillet1_zps365e6471.jpg~original

Steve C

December 26th 2012, 06:38

Hi

I installed some extra gauges and this left no room for switch gear, I moved the switches down to where the fan switch and vent control normally sit, I'm making billet panel to replace the hacked up plastic one shown here.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/warninglights_zps4f0875f0.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/dash_zps5c0ac115.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/dash2_zps36813ded.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/dash3_zps6369287e.jpg~original

Steve C

December 26th 2012, 06:41

Hi

I fitted some NOS CV boots, I think that the rubber may have perished.

I'm running a lot of angle so that wouldn't have helped so I bought some better boots from eBay, the have many more ribs in them which will help I think.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/930bootrip_zps2bc35a8b.jpg~original

ricola

December 26th 2012, 07:35

Why have you got two fan switches Steve?

My CV boots (genuine GKN) only lasted a few days! Right now I've ended up with the race type boots on the outer and big off-road silicone ones at the inners when I have space..

Wally

December 26th 2012, 08:44

Good job fitting a diff while your in there! I can here my G50 pretty good too, but only always on deceleration. I knew the G50 is a bot noisy from itself as porsche did go pretty far on the insulation on the shifter opening and even the shift rod itself is packed in foam-like material. That was a good clue for me, LOL!

Steve C

December 26th 2012, 17:49

Hi

I use one fan switch for the dash fan and the other one is for the heater, its under the back seat.

The heater under the back seat is from the rear of a Toyota Troop carrier and blows up the factory heater channels.

When I got the news that the transmission was in good shape I decided that I had some spare cash to buy the Quaife.

I had a Quaife in my 1302 and it worked fine, I know that they are not the ultimate but they don't have any handling vices.

The Porsche gearbox guy was saying that they used a lot of things keep them quiet, dual mass flywheel and blankets over things, apparently the blanket over the transmission used to soak up oil and catch fire

Steve

these are the CV boots I bought from eBay

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/930bootebay_zps89528180.jpg~original

dub_crazee

December 29th 2012, 13:50

It's looking really sharp - shame about the gearbox - i feel your pain as i had my 915 rebuilt after doing about 100 miles!

How did you find the wheel alignment? I notice you are running ally arms - and there was a thread not too long ago with a few people having excessive toe out (including me). My spring plates were filed out in the end.

owdlvr

December 29th 2012, 18:04

Steve, the car and upgrades look great!

Something to consider with the Porsche transmissions is the switch from 6cyl to 4cyl motors. Here in Vancouver we have a Porsche 356 replica manufacturer Intermeccanica. Henry, who owns the business, is a friend and walked up to my car at the first event. "Porsche 5spd?", yep. "Noisy as all hell isn't it." They used to offer a Porsche 901 or G50 option with the VW motors, but now reserve them only for 6cylinder cars. Even with rebuilds and all new parts they were noisy, swap the exact same box into a 6cyl equipped car and they'd be silent. Gotta be something with the harmonics.

Hmmm, this makes me think I should update my thread!

-Dave

Steve C

December 29th 2012, 19:08

Hi

Interesting comment about the harmonics.

When I worked in a performance VW shop, when we fitted a higher comp, higher performance motor to a customers car its transmission would develop an overrun noise which wasn't there before.

We put this down more savage pulsing on overrun, fitting a sprung centre clutch plate helped.

A 6 cylinder motor would have more even pulsing than a 4 cylinder.

Anyway now I have the peace of mind knowing I'm not grinding my transmission pieces.

I only had my front end aligned, I still have a bit to do to correct the toe out on the rear.

I fitted some offset pivot bolts made by a local drag racer which helped a lot, just need a whisker more.

Steve

The pivot bolts

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF0538.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF0537.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF0539.jpg~original

dub_crazee

January 6th 2013, 17:25

Ah yes - i remember seeing that - sorry, i had bit of a blonde moment there!

Steve C

February 25th 2013, 05:38

Hi

Bit of an update, I replaced my cracked 930 CV boots with some eBay ones, great quality.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/930bootebay_zps89528180.jpg~original

Some time ago I read post on this forum by Ricola about clocking CVs. After a bit of search I found the information on doing this. You can read more about it here http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

I used a plastic windscreen washer bottle as my water to air intercooler reservoir.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/intercoolertank1_zps9457fc1e.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/intercoolertank_zpsa6f42e5f.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/intercoolertank2_zps22a38262.jpg~original

It always looked a bit cheap so I bought a aluminium one from eBay and had my friend Westi fit two 3/4 bungs and a two bosses so I could fit a level indicator.

Transmission still has noises but nowhere near as bad as before and it seems to be just one noise now, not a variety of noises. I've decided to keep the extra mountings that I've fitted even if they do transmit noise. At least I know that I’m not slowly grinding the transmission to pieces.

I fitted an extra brake light bulb in tail light housing, just in case and also I've made a move to a more permanent coolant overflow reservoir. I'm using US style tail light lenses.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/taillight_zps0132c32f.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/taillight1_zps1b9e2942.jpg~original

I was booked in for a dyno on the 18th and to also have a knock module fitted to the Autronic SM4 at the same time.

It was a pretty disappointing day at the dyno, with all the heat build up around radiator because of the lack of airflow, the fuel pump started to make funny noises and cavitate and was making the motor run hairy over 5,000.

So no power figures as such but I did see 169kw on the screen once, the dyno is a very old but a good one but is not hooked up to printers etc like later dynos. I also will need to rethink my fuel pump layout.

I thought that I would post some photos of my 044 pump and surge tank.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/044pump_zps82b13aaf.jpg~original

Next week I'm going to move the 044 and surge tank to the rear of the car.
For the time being I've changed the surge tank layout a little, I originally had it setup so that fuel returning from the rail would go into the tank and cool a little, I think only relying on the lift pump to fill the surge tank would maybe make the surge tank run out of fuel during in high demand.

I also made some fill panels for my whale tail out of black Perspex and secured them with M5 nutserts and stainless M5 Allen screws.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tail9_zpsb0a1468d.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tail10_zpsa067221d.jpg~original

I'm sorting out ride heights now and just having fun driving it. I'm also setting up the waste gate actuator.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/vintage_zps7c0f4e60.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/davespic1_zps3847fdfb.jpg~original

So after I get my fuel issues sorted I will go a for another dyno session.

Steve

70Turbobug

February 25th 2013, 08:15

Making a lot progress! Looks great! Hope you get the fuel issues sorted out soon!

NO_H2O

February 25th 2013, 09:10

Looking good.

chug_A_bug

February 25th 2013, 21:40

Wow just read this from the Start... SWEET build :)

Hope you get some Video over it when it's all Said an done ;)
I know I'm not only one what would like to See it.

Chris.

graham

March 5th 2013, 01:43

Hi Steve,been looking through your thread again.How you getting on with the fuel pump set up ? I am doing some research at the moment on best set ups for STI powered bugs with external fuel pumps.Any info advice is appreciated.

Regards Graham

Steve C

March 5th 2013, 02:12

Hi Graham

I'm going to go in tank 044 now. I'm just collecting parts now.

My friend who gives me some advice in this area and does any tricky welding (he builds fuel, inlet & exhaust system for some of the fastest cars down under) suggested going for an in tank fuel pump.

My reason for moving to a in tank setup is that I have fuel system parts strewn around the front area of the car, I feel if I have everything in one spot I can concentrate on keeping that one spot cool.

I currently have a Carter lift pump on passenger side of the car about where the master cylinder would be on a LHD car, its in the path of the exit air flow from the radiator.

My surge tank and main fuel pump are in boot floor close to the radiator.

Steve

graham

March 7th 2013, 02:27

Hi Steve.

Thanks for the that I would go in tank as well but I dont want to chop the tank now as its painted and I've bought my external fuel pump and filter.

Thats good thinking on the cooling side of things.I will now concentrate on keeping the heat from my rads away from my fuel system :goodjob:

Steve C

March 8th 2013, 00:51

Hi Graham

I'm not sure if your motor has it, but my motor ECU controls a variable speed fuel pump controller, I control the 044 with this and lift pump runs at full speed.

Steve

graham

March 8th 2013, 01:54

Nice one Steve I will look into that.

Steve C

April 20th 2013, 03:56

Hi

in-tank 044 fuel pump is finished now, I'm booked in next month for a tune at a Central Coast Subaru guru.

Not really GL stuff but I like a few comforts in my bug. I've been driving around without any sound system since I got the car on the road, so I now have blue tooth for my phone, Ipod and radio to find out why I'm held up in traffic.

I fitted a JVC unit I've had for about 6 years waiting to be fitted, I also fitted a cup holder on the bottom of the radio bracket.

I also fitted a resistor in my LED high beam warning light circuit, it was way too bright and while I had the dash apart and I also installed an air intake temperature gauge. As you can see it was 30 C in my garage that night.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF1006_zps894aa56d.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/DSCF1006_zps894aa56d.jpg.html)

I made up some front speaker mounts, I bolted these into the front footwell area. When I was drilling holes for the nutserts I used a bit of conduit to prevent my drill from going in too far and damaging the inside of the front 1/4 panel, its also handy if drilling near wires etc. BTW these speaker mounts will carpeted in the future.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/speakermount_zps834b2ddc.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/speakermount_zps834b2ddc.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/drillsaftey_zpsc6705e36.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/drillsaftey_zpsc6705e36.jpg.html)

Steve

Steve C

April 20th 2013, 04:03

Hi

I've been collecting bits for my in tank 044 pump set up.

A friend has a Mazda Famlia that he tracks and he had a spare fuel pump housing that I could use for my set up. I had a weld in base for the fuel pump profile cut.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/mazdapumphousing_zps9b07a895.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/mazdapumphousing_zps9b07a895.jpg.html)

I went to my local EFI place http://www.afiaustralia.com.au and scored pump inlet filter, then I had my neighbour turn the 044 inlet fitting down to fit into the filter.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/intank1_zpsf9ae4023.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/intank1_zpsf9ae4023.jpg.html)

Steve

Steve C

April 20th 2013, 04:08

Hi

I'm also upgrading my intercooler radiator to a proper PWR unit.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pwrrad_zps065ed064.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pwrrad_zps065ed064.jpg.html)

I had Brad at Westside modify my fuel tank to fit my 044 pump internally.

I washed the tank out 4 times with hot soapy water, no surprises.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/westi9_zpsf03619c9.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/westi9_zpsf03619c9.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tank2_zpsfd125b14.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tank2_zpsfd125b14.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tank4_zps92bf0e35.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tank4_zps92bf0e35.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tank5_zps648ab5e2.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tank5_zps648ab5e2.jpg.html)

Pictures tell the story.

Steve

Steve C

April 20th 2013, 04:11

Hi

I also had Brad fit a Kombi tank sender, it was the only one Vintage VeeDub had in stock with the same ohm reading as my VDO fuel gauge. works great, I put 10 litres in and it read 1/4, filled it up and it read full, my tank holds about 46 litres. The stock 1302/1303 send would have been in the way.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/tanktop_zps872725d9.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/tanktop_zps872725d9.jpg.html)

A friend has Mazda Familia track and he gave me one of his spare pump housings, Brad gave a me useful tip, buy the special in tank hose for the fuel pump connection, normal fuel hose will disintegrate over time.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/044intank_zps37583689.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/044intank_zps37583689.jpg.html)

So I went to http://www.afiaustralia.com.au/ and picked up the special hose.

Steve C

April 20th 2013, 04:15

Hi

The reason I went in tank pump was to reduce the heat build-up in the pump, I covered the fuel hoses with some 1303 dash vent hose covered in an insulating tape.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/hosecover_zpsa3ddec51.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/hosecover_zpsa3ddec51.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/hosecover1_zps08d731bc.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/hosecover1_zps08d731bc.jpg.html)

I drove the car last night and the new PWR intercooler radiator seems to be doing better than the old RS liberty one I had before.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pwrrad2_zps33194b4e.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pwrrad2_zps33194b4e.jpg.html)

Steve C

April 20th 2013, 04:18

Hi

The 1303 fresh fan housing cover is held in place by self tappers and speed nuts, I've never liked that so I used some M6 J nuts.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/Jclip_zpscfa5b3b6.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/Jclip_zpscfa5b3b6.jpg.html)

The one complaint I have of the K Mac strut tops is that if I ever need to remove my strut brace I would loose the camber & caster settings, so I drilled out one of the strut brace holes and used a M8 rod joiner in place of the normal nut, now if I need to remove my strut brace to remove my fuel tank I can use the one nut to hold it all in place.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/struttop_zps6f7d0fe2.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/struttop_zps6f7d0fe2.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/struttop1_zpsded12601.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/struttop1_zpsded12601.jpg.html)

and a random phone photo I took a few weeks ago

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scatcreek_zpsf80b40fc.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scatcreek_zpsf80b40fc.jpg.html)

Steve

Steve C

April 26th 2013, 03:48

Hi

Went for a dyno today on the NSW Central Coast, caught up with Jak for a coffee while I was there.

Didn't make as much as I was expecting, with a few teaks he said it should make another 30-40 kWs

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/MSEdyno_zps8b456fea.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/MSEdyno_zps8b456fea.jpg.html)

Steve C

May 27th 2013, 18:29

Hi

I was thinking that the wire on my Mazda in tank fuel pump may have been a bit puny to run the Bosch 044 pump.

I trawled the Internet to find a place that sold bulkhead fittings for in tank pump wiring.

Normal car electrical wiring is not fuel proof, I found these units on the HOERR site, not cheap but good insurance, there made by Fuel Safe.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pumpwire1_zps18ee2fa7.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pumpwire1_zps18ee2fa7.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/pumpwire_zps3e0af456.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/pumpwire_zps3e0af456.jpg.html)

Steve C

May 27th 2013, 18:30

Hi

I still have a heat issues in the fuel system, I had to use the car in peak hour traffic last week and the pump started to make some funny noises after about an hour of it, then when I had some clear road I booted it and it appeared to run rough.

After my meeting when everything was cool again it was back to normal.

I'm pulling the pump tomorrow to check on the pre filter as it may collected some crap from the recent tank up grades and to fit my heavy wiring.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/044newwire1_zps7104b02b.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/044newwire1_zps7104b02b.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/044newwire_zps556fec46.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/044newwire_zps556fec46.jpg.html)

Steve C

May 27th 2013, 18:35

Hi

I just ran my first track event at Wakefield Park about, its about 2 hours drive from my house.

At Wakefield I found the coolant temps got up a bit after 4 laps, around 105 c so I will do a bit more shrouding around the radiator air intake, air intakes after the intercooler were 40 c. The coolant temp has never gone over 95 before

Other than that the car ran well on low boost all day, the driver needs some work. My best time was 1:15.0680, the Quaife worked well, I think it helped having no sway bars on the car, it had great traction out of corners, the front felt a bit slippery but after my friends Rudi and Paul told me to harden up, I got a bit more heat into the front tyres and it was much better.

I only did 4 heats, filled up at Marulan about 50-80 ks away on the way down and on the way home and I used 18 litres, very economical.

Steve

video
http://youtu.be/vj3uVjIjrG0

70Turbobug

May 28th 2013, 05:33

Nice video! Very quick!

NO_H2O

May 28th 2013, 08:33

Great video. Thanks for sharing. Good to see your car make its first track event.

Steve C

May 28th 2013, 09:13

Thanks guys, after I sort out a few things I will do some more track days

volkdent

May 28th 2013, 14:16

I worry about cooling all the time too, shrouding in is a big deal, but so is the exit so keep that in mind too!

Fun to see the track runs!

Jason

Steve C

May 28th 2013, 19:02

Hi

I've run this car on 40 degree days in bumper to bumper traffic and at our freeway speeds of 110 kph without any overheating issues. I was shocked to see that the coolant temps got up so high.

So as they say racing improve the breed.

I just had a scoop folded up to fit in area where the chassis deformation element normally sits, I will post photos soon.

Steve

Steve C

May 30th 2013, 08:25

Hi

A couple of photos from the weekend Supersprint

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scwf1_zps36c1c1a7.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scwf1_zps36c1c1a7.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scwf2_zpsdfb94baa.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scwf2_zpsdfb94baa.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scwf3_zpse04b4fde.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scwf3_zpse04b4fde.jpg.html)

spannermanager

May 30th 2013, 12:09

Yes, too hot that Steve, some rake angle on the rad makes it far more efficient and possible to use a smaller rad for less drag, the manufacturers stand them upright only for 'packaging and space reasons' but i dont think thats whats going on with yours as you have good rad area, a 'bottom breather' system in a Beetle can be difficult to extract the hot air, i use gills in the lower front wings to extract the rad air into the low pressure area behind them, upward venting is the way, but not easy on a street Bug without surgery, mine splits the venting air over and under, but its easy with a track car, i use additional upper vents in the front 1/4 panel fuel filler neck area, both sides are in a low pressure area to pull the hot air out, but its not descreet, i run at 80c during events, after, it heat soaks to 90c in the paddock where the fan cuts in, so you need to pull the air out more from the under tank and lower wing areas i would guess. nearly there:)

Steve C

May 30th 2013, 22:35

Hi

I made up this scoop to fill in the open part of my chassis and to direct air up to the radiator. I also filled gaps between the radiator and the shroud so that any air coming through the grille has to go through the radiator.

My friend Neil at Rust Right did all the folding and guillotining for me, he made my A & B stiffeners for me.

I assumed that all was working well as I had no issues driving on the street, driving at sustained higher speeds showed up the weakness in my design.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scoop1_zpsdae56726.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scoop1_zpsdae56726.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scoop_zps044748e8.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scoop_zps044748e8.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scoop2_zpsbd046f0d.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scoop2_zpsbd046f0d.jpg.html)

volkdent

May 31st 2013, 13:31

For a temporary measure I made one just like that from ABS, it worked great and I havn't yet been able to duplicate the success of the simple design.

Jason

Steve C

May 31st 2013, 23:56

Hi

I agree, simple things often work the best.

I've been driving the car around today, the weather was not all that hot today but I've noticed a difference, coolant temp always sat about 90 degrees, now its sitting around 82 which is just after the thermostat opens.

The thermo fan usually comes on if I've been sitting in traffic for a while, it didn't come on today at all.

Non 1302 or 1303 owners may not get what I'm saying about removing the deformation element from the front of the chassis.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/radiatorgap_zps12ded15f.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/radiatorgap_zps12ded15f.jpg.html)

The shaded are is where the deformation element usually sits, I had this section open so air would come into the grille and go back out bottom, not actually doing any work.

Steve

Steve C

June 26th 2013, 21:56

Hi

Some kilowatts were found. My car was just below the legal DB limit on a friends DB meter, to be on safe side I stuffed some chicken wire up the exhaust before going for rego inspection, I thought it had been removed, it was found to be still in place, I think some of my missing kilowatts are here.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/kilowattsfound_zps869b16c5.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/kilowattsfound_zps869b16c5.jpg.html)

Steve C

June 26th 2013, 21:59

Hi

Just got back from the dyno shop, good news is that kilowatts were found as well lots of torque.

Shame its raining, I had to behave myself.

MSEdyno 2 is high and low boost settings on the e Boost 2, blue is low, red is high. MSEDyno 1 is just two different runs.

The E boost 2 defaults to lower setting which is about 16 psi on start up, I need to select the higher setting if I want it.

Its a heavy car so I will see how it goes on the weekend at the VWMA drags in Sydney.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/MSEdyno2_zpsc2eea11c.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/MSEdyno2_zpsc2eea11c.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/MSEdyno1_zpsc9f96108.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/MSEdyno1_zpsc9f96108.jpg.html)

Steve C

June 27th 2013, 02:23

Hi

Its been wet lately, so now its a little drier I went out a local free way to run up to the speed limit, well sort of.

Steve

http://youtu.be/qDnLsxNzkvI

volkdent

June 27th 2013, 14:16

For the HP people that's about 273hp and 368ft/lbs! That'll get you going pretty well!

Jason

graham

June 27th 2013, 14:36

Hi

Its been wet lately, so now its a little drier I went out a local free way to run up to the speed limit, well sort of.

Steve

http://youtu.be/qDnLsxNzkvI

Ha Ha,superb video..... I get the feeling when you were not laughing you where grinning from cheek to cheek.:D:D:D

Well done Steve C :D:D:D

Steve C

June 27th 2013, 20:01

Hi

Thanks guys, its a ball to drive, its raining here again, there is VW only drag event tomorrow that I want to run, I hope the weather gets better.

The tuner said that I must be crazy having this sort of power with only 2wd.

The tuner also said that's all I will get out of it without changing things like cams, turbo or even stroking it out to 2.2.

I cant wait to get on a circuit again but I'm pulling the car of the road after the drag event to fix some paint defects so I will have to wait for a while.

Steve

bushoarder

July 3rd 2013, 17:54

Hi,

What clutch cylinders are you using? I'm impressed with your setup and am keen to see what sizes work. I'm currently thinking t25 parts..

My bug has a 901 tranny and a t4 motor.

Fab car as always! Love reading your threads.

Cheers.

Steve C

July 3rd 2013, 18:49

Hi

I'm using the stock G50 slave and a 19mm master, I have a Kennedy clutch that's fairly heavy to operate.

Thanks for looking

BTW, drags were called of due to rain, car is now stripped and is back in for paint fix up, don't get your car soda blasted, I have rust in an area that I've never seen a bug rust before. PPG paints wont warrant a car that's been soda blasted.

Steve

volkdent

July 3rd 2013, 21:46

PPG paints wont warrant a car that's been soda blasted.

Steve

Whaaaaaaa? Why not, that seems really odd? They must have some sort of reason?

Jason

Steve C

July 4th 2013, 05:52

Hi

PPG are sending out a rep tomorrow, he will take a sample of the rust to analyse it to find out the cause. There is few mentions on other websites about this issue.

Steve

Birdman69

July 4th 2013, 05:59

That's steve jnr giggling.
But I do the same when im in the passanger seat!!!
When I drive the beast it's all 100% concentration.:):):)

70Turbobug

July 4th 2013, 10:49

Is it a water based paint? Most modern paints are now water based,which means the proper primer etc. must be used.I´m not a painter,but I´ve heard of issues like that and others with water based paint.The painters where I work (Airbus Germany) had told me with such a paint the top coat is only part of a "system",using the wrong primer,hardener,etc. will affect the results of the finish.

Steve C

July 4th 2013, 19:31

Hi

This is good old fashioned two pac, I had my old yellow 1302 painted in acrylic, it still looks good, I regret not going acrylic again, its much easier to do a spot repair.

Birdman, you need to drive it again, it has much more punch now.

Steve

Steve C

September 9th 2013, 05:39

Hi

Car is all back together after a respray. I took the opportunity to get a stock engine lid painted at the same time, I think I will only use the tail for speed events.

All I had to do to fit the air cleaner in under the stock engine lid was to turn it around 180°

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/stocklid2_zps4686eeb8.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/stocklid2_zps4686eeb8.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/stocklid1_zps6d1486cb.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/stocklid1_zps6d1486cb.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/stocklid_zps39c54e2a.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/stocklid_zps39c54e2a.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/aircleaner1_zps0ab38c3b.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/aircleaner1_zps0ab38c3b.jpg.html)

effvee

September 9th 2013, 06:55

Yeah buddy, nice. Your ride did not sound Suraru,what type of exhaust are you using.

effvee

September 9th 2013, 06:59

Yeah buddy, nice. Your ride did not sound Suraru,what type of exhaust are you using. Those rear fenders I tried to have the company that make them, make me a pair in 3 inches wider,but they declined. They give your ride coolness:)

ricola

September 9th 2013, 11:49

Looks good with the stock decklid Steve, bet you're glad to have it back together again! Did you take the opportunity to do any other changes?

Steve C

September 9th 2013, 17:21

Hi

I can now start on the interior, just going to make a twin bucket seat up for the rear and some carpet.

I bought some heavier rear torsion bars but I haven't fitted them yet

effvee Those fenders are pretty wide already, I'm running early 944 aluminium rear arms and 18x9 with about a 53ET.

The exhaust is stock ported STI headers and 3 inch all the way through, I've changed the dump pipe a bit since this photo was taken.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/new%201303%20pictures/exhaust3.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/new%201303%20pictures/exhaust3.jpg.html)

Steve C

October 7th 2013, 20:10

Hi

I just got back from running my car at a VW only 1/8 mile drag event, I had great weekend at the drags and a good trip up & back, it was about 1800 k journey.

I won my bracket, it was VW body other engine bracket, I completely fluked my bracket win, some of my runs I broke out but my competitors red lighted. My car was running .2 of second quicker during racing than it was in qualifying, not so much the car but me getting the hang of it.

In the final I missed 3rd gear but my friend Lou red lighted which gave me the win.

I will put up a video soon.

I would much rather go around corners than drag race.

Steve

this time slip was my best run

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/sctimeslip_zps25e2a574.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/sctimeslip_zps25e2a574.jpg.html)

H2OSB

October 8th 2013, 10:27

Pretty damn good reaction time on that run Steve.

Steve C

October 8th 2013, 18:08

Thanks, it was as they say down here, more arse than class

Steve C

October 8th 2013, 23:43

Hi

Just uploaded a video of my last run with terrible gear change.

Steve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBBJCeoy6CU&feature=share&list=UUhtqg6BbfhUEF5dYCB6ibEA

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/warwicktrophy_zpsfd74846e.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/warwicktrophy_zpsfd74846e.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/warwicktrophy1_zps85e21c20.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/warwicktrophy1_zps85e21c20.jpg.html)

Steve C

November 16th 2013, 09:29

Hi

I've been having some issues with heat soak into the fuel system. I just fitted some aluminium fuel lines and a cooler on the return line, seems to be working.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/fuelcooler_zps0d0063c5.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/fuelcooler_zps0d0063c5.jpg.html)

Steve C

November 16th 2013, 09:33

Hi

I scored some cheap new wheels on eBay a few weeks ago, I had them painted in a gunmetal grey colour.

My other wheels have sticky tyres on them so I will use these for every day driving and keep the other wheels for track days.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/newwheels1_zpsba2b69b4.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/newwheels1_zpsba2b69b4.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/newwheels_zps6c9bd14b.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/newwheels_zps6c9bd14b.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/newwheels2_zps9a284968.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/newwheels2_zps9a284968.jpg.html)

Wally

November 16th 2013, 13:25

Those wheels look absolutely stunning Steve. Good score!

volkdent

November 20th 2013, 14:30

17 or 18 and OEM or repro?

Looking smashing!!!

Jason

Steve C

November 20th 2013, 18:31

Hi

Thanks, I cant believe how much nicer it rides without the Yokohama Neveos, I fitted some Kumho KU31. Rears are real, fronts are repo, They are 18x10 et65 &18x8 et50

Steve

Steve C

February 22nd 2014, 20:38

Hi

I just ran the car at VW only drag event. I was runner up in my bracket. My first run was my best, it just went downhill from there.

Car weighs 1160 kgs add me and its another 115 kgs

Looking at changing turbos now to a GTX style and going flex fuel with E85 down the track.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/wsidslip_zpsf5a8ab34.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/wsidslip_zpsf5a8ab34.jpg.html)

and a random photo

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/Steves996Wheels_zps98003ba5.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/Steves996Wheels_zps98003ba5.jpg.html)

Wally

February 23rd 2014, 05:08

With that weight and those tires (not drag tires), not bad at all!

Steve C

February 23rd 2014, 07:31

Thanks Wally, maybe I should get Ron to drive it, nah or maybe if I lost 20 kilos or so.

I will try another run soon but I will try to borrow some higher profile tyres, 35 series tyres are not ideal for drag starts

Wally

February 23rd 2014, 12:04

Yeah, Ron is a skinny dude!
The street tires will continue to suck for dragracing. You won't get much if at all under 2.0 seconds for 60ft with them. Ask me how I know...

Steve C

February 26th 2014, 19:10

Hi

Cool photo of my bug, so close to a wheel stand, you can see why I need heavier rear torsion bars.

Steve

http://www.cacklingpipesphotography.com/140222_sd_vw/sdvw220214_1686.JPG

volkdent

February 26th 2014, 21:43

Steve C

February 26th 2014, 23:19

Hi Jason

I have 944 alloy arms with universal bump stops that I picked up on eBay, they are about as high as a VW one but maybe a little softer.

Drag racing is not really my thing but I do want my car to perform to the best of its ability. I'm running 26 mm short bars but the car weighs 1160 kgs so they are bit too soft, I'm going go 28 mm shorts soon and if I still get too much squat I will try to fit a coil overs as a helpers, but I'm limited there as my axle nearly touches my shock so anything I use will have to have the coil mounted high for axle clearance.

I had lots of tyre spin but I can deal with in other ways.

Steve

Steve C

April 1st 2014, 21:53

Hi

I just went to a local car event called Powercruise https://www.powercruise.com/

You get to cruise around a race track with tough street cars and race cars, 80 kph around the corners and just about anything goes on the straights.

A short video http://youtu.be/04T5KkxCwec

spannermanager

April 2nd 2014, 12:44

Do you hit the bump stops pretty hard launching? Maybe a GoPro to see what happens? I wonder if you are looking for good starts a softer spring might get a better launch, would a stiffer spring give you tire spin instead? As I recall though, don't you prefer a better handling car than a off-the-line fast car?

Jason

This^^^^^^. traction goes way down on stiff bars, so does rear lateral grip and genaral handling, it's all to easy to over spring, think why Porsche used only long 24mm bars for the 911 with that heavy old 6 pot in the rear, I tested 26 mm short bars and they were too stiff for the above reasons, the 24mm long bars were the best I've found for handling and traction off the lights, I use a 20mm rear ARB with them.

Steve C

April 2nd 2014, 15:54

Hi

I agree you can over spring a car, but at the moment my car acts like a speed boat when it comes on boost so it does need more rear spring. I think my motor & trans combo would add up to more than a Porsche. You can see in these photos that I'm getting lots of body roll and the rear end is dropping down under power.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scwf8_zpseef16891.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scwf8_zpseef16891.jpg.html)~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/scwf6_zps832bd97f.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/scwf6_zps832bd97f.jpg.html)

Steve

Wally

April 3rd 2014, 01:49

I like your pics a lot Steve! That colour suits the car well too.

On topic: I use 25,5mm 944 Cup (030 option) torsion bars in the rear atm and that works very well for me both drag and track.

Nonetheless I ordered a coil-over set anyways if its only to save some weight ;)

H2OSB

April 3rd 2014, 02:04

Steve, I have a pair of 25.5s I'm not going to use from an '86 944S. I plan to try to trade them with a Porsche breaker for 23.5s, but if I still have them when you come in June, you can pack them in your suitcase and take them home with you.

Steve C

April 3rd 2014, 21:27

Hi

Thanks guys, I'm using short bars because I cut the centre section away to fit the G50, hopefully 28 shorts will solve my issues. Thanks for the offer John.

Steve

Bogara_ZO

April 4th 2014, 13:00

Steve, Wally do you know exactly how much does your bug weigh?

Steve C

April 6th 2014, 05:30

Hi

Mine is 1160 kg, full tank of fuel and no spare wheel etc

Steve

Bogara_ZO

April 12th 2014, 16:06

Hi

Mine is 1160 kg, full tank of fuel and no spare wheel etc

Steve

Thanks!

SuperRSi

April 13th 2014, 00:14

Are those rear wing deck lids available for sale?

Steve C

April 13th 2014, 17:29

Hi

These people make and sell them, freight would be a killer http://www.beetleracing.com.au

Steve C

May 27th 2014, 22:41

Hi

Just fitted some 30mm short sway away rear bars and some Bilstein rear shocks to my bug, they ride quiet well and seem to have taken the squat out of my rear end

Took my bug to the VW Nationals Supersprint, I need some work with my driving http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it97icdL2Rc...fhUEF5dYCB6ibEA

I gave the car a wash and changed wheels and won second place in the VW Nationals show n shine for modified Beetles 1968-1976, race on Saturday, show on Sunday

Steve

graham

May 29th 2014, 18:42

Steve C

May 29th 2014, 19:54

Hi

It handles pretty well, I was chucking it around at first trying to get heat into the tyres, people watching said its not squatting like it used to, the spin was from trying to get more speed onto the straight.

I don't have the ability to say what the suspension needs next, so next track day I would like to get someone else to have a drive and get some advice.

I have pretty old Konis in the front. I'm thinking of going for some coil overs with an adjustable base for height, at present the only way I can set ride height is by putting more tension on the coil spring which is not ideal

Steve

NO_H2O

June 6th 2014, 08:11

Looks like it was a great day. Awesome vid. Thanks for sharing.

Oval

June 11th 2014, 18:45

Yep that corner onto the straight has claimed a few before...! Good stuff Steve

Steve C

September 4th 2014, 01:22

Hi

Went to WSID (local Sydney 1/4 mile) last night to get in some practice before the VW drags at Warwick and before I fit a bigger turbo, GTX3076.

I won best reaction time .001 as well and $300.

Best time was 12.432 @110.90 mph

Steve

Wally

September 4th 2014, 02:01

Well done! That turbo is a good one, 400hp should just be a little over 1 bar boost then ;-)

Steve C

September 4th 2014, 05:18

Thanks Wally, I'm looking forward to more power, I've heard of great results on other Japanese motors with the GTX, I'm also going 1000cc injectors so I can have some head room for E85 down the track

Steve C

September 16th 2014, 19:31

Hi

Some parts arrived to help with my quest for more kilowatts, thanks to AFI South, some 1000cc injectors with plenty of head room for E85, they also supplied some adaptors for Denso to GM plugs so I don't have to cut any wires.

And some more parts turned up today from Frozen Boost.

Ice water reservoir and water to air intercooler pump, this pump is designed by Bosch and Ford specifically for water/air APPLICATIONS and is used in supercharged Mustang Cobras and supercharged Mercedes.

Turbo arrives today.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/ICpump_zps51382a53.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/ICpump_zps51382a53.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/ictank_zps759f01f2.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/ictank_zps759f01f2.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF1393_zps5dc58bd7.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/DSCF1393_zps5dc58bd7.jpg.html)

effvee

September 16th 2014, 20:28

Steve C

September 17th 2014, 00:44

Hi

It's a HUD, I really like it. I bought from these people http://mypolaris.com.au/hud/ but might be able to source one locally

Steve

Steve C

September 17th 2014, 21:00

Hi

Turbo is on, just need to fit the injectors and some phenolic spacers to the inlet manifold and fit the ice box.

There is a massive size difference between the turbos.

I thought my motor used a VF30, its actually a VF35

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/IHIGTX_zpsebb1e091.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/IHIGTX_zpsebb1e091.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/IHIGTX1_zpse037fa81.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/IHIGTX1_zpse037fa81.jpg.html)

Wally

September 18th 2014, 02:03

Familiar pictures... I had a VF34 and the difference with a Blouch DOM3 (= Garrett GT3076R with a small-ish hotside) looked like that too.

Steve C

September 22nd 2014, 07:27

Hi

Its nearly back on the road, check of the tune next week.

I think I had a boost leak, I wonder how it would have gone at the 1/4 mile without a split in the hose just after the turbo.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/split_zpsde8cd467.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/split_zpsde8cd467.jpg.html)

It was a bit of challenge to fit a 3 inch inlet under the Subaru inlet manifold. Needed a bit of hammer work.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/turbointake_zpsd734a9d3.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/turbointake_zpsd734a9d3.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/turbointake1_zps3dfcccb1.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/turbointake1_zps3dfcccb1.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/turbointake2_zps6e16a58e.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/turbointake2_zps6e16a58e.jpg.html)

Steve

graham

September 22nd 2014, 13:26

Hi Steve can you let me know how you get on with that intercooler pump,particularly how noisy/quiet it is thanks Graham.

Birdman69

September 24th 2014, 09:23

Hi Steve can you let me know how you get on with that intercooler pump,particularly how noisy/quiet it is thanks Graham.

It's an OEM W/A intercooler pump graham so it would have to be the best bet available. Other options I see people using are things like irrigation pumps.

It would have had to pass all their NVH testing before the implemented it.

Just ask Ricola about all the testing manufacturers do.

Steve C

September 24th 2014, 09:59

Hi

I only bought it as a spare, I'm going to use my existing Davies Craig one that's also made by Bosch its very quiet, no worse than a EFI fuel pump http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-ELECTRIC_BOOSTER_PUMP_12V_SHORT___PART_No__9002-details.aspx

Steve

ricola

September 24th 2014, 13:46

Somebody did some testing for a chargecooler project and the bosch one was the quietest by far with one of the best flows..

graham

September 28th 2014, 12:00

Thanks for the replays fellas

Steve C

October 6th 2014, 23:24

Hi

I ran in a VW only 1/8 mile drag event on the weekend, no prizes this time as I kept breaking out as the car kept getting quicker all the time http://youtu.be/uhgVgzf5oD0

Steve

Wally

October 7th 2014, 00:35

Its crazy: the only sport I know where you loose when you get faster/better...
Well done!

Steve C

October 7th 2014, 03:26

Thanks Wally, and as it looked like rain I asked if we could still race or should we get out our tutus

Steve C

October 14th 2014, 18:59

Hi

I forgot to mention that with the ice box from Frozen Boost I was able to get intake temps below ambient temps, so fill it with ice in the staging lanes and run the pump to cool it down. I also fitted 3/4 inch home irrigation valve to act as a restriction to keep the cooled water in the inter cooler longer. Driving around on the street the ice box acts as normal reservoir.

I've always struggled at drag events to do consistent times as my intake temps world rise as the meet went on as my ECU pulls timing out as the intake temps rise. I'm running my fuel return through it as well so I'm cooling fuel which is another issue that the ice box has cured, my fuel pump would start to cavitate during the meet so I could've risked a lean out.

I gave a lift to a Facebook friend, Steve Pafitt, we have never met before, he used to drag race a bug in the UK, he did this video of the weekend http://youtu.be/wGutcgKEfQw lucky he wasn't an axe murderer.

Steve

Steve C

November 17th 2014, 06:45

Hi

Went to see my friend Westy and he made new less restrictive exhaust for my Beetle.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/westynewex2_zpsf24e1131.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/westynewex2_zpsf24e1131.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/westynewex3_zps969338e0.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/westynewex3_zps969338e0.jpg.html)

I'm using a Mondeo (3/95 - 04) air box with the lid removed, it sits near the engine lid vents and suck air through there, its 397 x 150.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/newairfilter_zps26c5d104.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/newairfilter_zps26c5d104.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/newairfilter1_zps7b28eb98.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/newairfilter1_zps7b28eb98.jpg.html)

Just got back from a 7 hour each way road trip to Shepperton, Victoria in the bug. I'm really happy with how the car performs now with the new turbo. It comes on at 4200 like you just got hit up the bum by a train.

So cruising at 120kph its off boost at about 3,000 rpm so its very quiet, it picks very nicely in 5th at that speed with a few psi of boost, if I stick it back to 3rd at that speed its nuts.

After stops for fuel etc you could really see how the new intake setup dropped temps back down again after some heat soak from the stop and something that I haven't seen before is the intake temps varying depending on load, so if I boot it intake temps would rise slightly and fall back down again when cruising.

I had another tune to compensate for the new exhaust and air cleaner, it was another **** day for a tune, very hot.

I've reached the limit of the current set-up now which is what I wanted to do, next cams & E85.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/dvs_zps15a5f0e3.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/dvs_zps15a5f0e3.jpg.html)

Im running this event this weekend, just hope I have the balls to keep my foot down http://snowymountains1000.com.au/

Steve

Steve C

November 22nd 2014, 23:26

Hi

Just got back from running the snowy mountains 1000, had a ball, beat some much more expensive machinery and managed to win my class.

video http://youtu.be/spgKInSH1D0

results http://racing.natsoft.com.au/635971630/object_295035.82z/Result?8

Steve

Wally

November 23rd 2014, 06:33

Hey Steve,
You actually did a Land Speed run there! Verry cool!
There is a fairly large group of us that like the long sprint distance and the history VW has with landspeed racing and there is a group on facebook for it. Bonneville being the ultimate place for that of course, but Australia has its own saltbed lake as well (Lake Gardner iirc) and VW's run there too.
The 1000 meter is now also a recognised distance, as are alternate powered VW's ;-)
Please contact Burly Burlile if you like to be in the registered group of those that have run actual measured times on these distances.
--> burlybug@comcast.net

Well done on the run(s) and great footage!

Steve C

November 24th 2014, 09:48

Thanks Wally, I sent an email of to Burly, no reply as yet.

Car felt good, I want more power now, Im of to the 1/4 mile Wednesday as I still have the Mickey Thompsons on the car

Wally

November 24th 2014, 13:04

Thanks Wally, I sent an email of to Burly, no reply as yet.

Oh yeah, there is. Check the FB group, you're on the front page right now :D

https://www.facebook.com/groups/36hpvw.challenge/

Steve C

November 24th 2014, 18:22

thanks Wally

Steve C

December 22nd 2014, 04:00

Hi

a few photos turned up from he Snowy 1000.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowytail_zps5d4a8100.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowytail_zps5d4a8100.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowy1_zpsfd569c5e.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowy1_zpsfd569c5e.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowy2_zpse8721a38.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowy2_zpse8721a38.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowy1000_zpsf1023097.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowy1000_zpsf1023097.jpg.html)

Wally

December 22nd 2014, 05:56

Very nice! Did you experiment with and without rear wing (pics show both, hence)?

Steve C

December 22nd 2014, 07:43

Hi Wally

I tried it with and without, couldn't feel any difference, I think the wing would help when corners are involved.

Steve

Steve C

December 23rd 2014, 18:54

Hi

A more professional video of the Snowy 1000 http://youtu.be/m7TLBbAH-Pg?list=UUYZ11-hqT0MUhzgstStiyVQ

Steve

Steve C

December 31st 2014, 19:55

Hi

Another piece of my quest for more power arrived today, its a sensor to tell my ECU the percentage of ethanol in my fuel, I can then run my car on the street on regular 98 RON fuel and then when I'm competing in an event I can fill the car with E85.

When my new cams arrive next year I will be getting the motor retuned a bit more aggressively on E85 fuel

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/flexfuelsensor_zps37025c52.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/flexfuelsensor_zps37025c52.jpg.html)

volkdent

January 3rd 2015, 13:40

Great pics and I love the E85 sensor plans!

Steve C

January 3rd 2015, 18:42

Thanks, E85 = more timing & boost = more power

70Turbobug

January 4th 2015, 10:35

Steve C

January 4th 2015, 18:30

Hi

Thanks, I like the work your doing on your car

I'm going to put it in the return line as close as I can to the motor, low pressure less dangerous. I think all the sensors are GM just re stickered.

When I get it tuned it will be on 98 RON and then blends from straight 98 to straight E85 and then mixtures of both. Its an expensive tune but the results should prove worthwhile, just waiting on the Tomei pon cams now.

Steve

70Turbobug

January 6th 2015, 06:21

Thanks! I was thinking the same about the pressure, but figured it would be more logical knowing what the ratio is before it enters the engine? However,come to think about it I guess that would only be an issue during cranking for start up. Expensive is right, I checked the price on the Zeitronix stuff. I bought a Siemens/Continental Flex Fuel sensor new for $70 US dollars,which is what GM uses also.I have an MS3 ECU from Autotune.fi. All I had to do is add a jumper wire. It was this simple mod that convinced me to go flex fuel. I am eager to see how well it works.

Steve C

January 6th 2015, 23:35

Hi

I'm running a Autronic SM4, it needs the Zeitronix gauge to send the correct signal to the ECU.

My sons building a new drift car, a Nissan Ceffiro with an RB30 turbo motor, hes going flex fuel as well but using a locally made ECU by Adaptronic, the sensor just plugs right in like your setup.

Steve

cookvw

January 8th 2015, 22:43

i just googled the Autronic SM4...wow amazing ecu you got. how do you like it so far?

Steve C

January 9th 2015, 00:03

Hi

I'm pretty happy with the SM4 so far but as its an older ECU so it doesn't have plugin flex fuel even though I will be fitting the latest chip and software to it. It is a plug n play ECU so it uses all the stock harness and sensors

My son is using this ECU http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/e1280s/ in his new drift car, its pretty amazing what it can do for the price.

My son is also using this dash as well http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/rt-dash-2-display/

Steve

Steve C

January 31st 2015, 08:30

Hi

1st part of the quest for more kiloWatts was fitted today, but not without dramas. I've mounted the Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyser (ECA) gauge to blind spot in the dash, right behind the steering wheel, I made a bracket to bolt it to the fascia that the tacho/speedo sits in, only problem was that when I connected the tacho back up again ECA wouldn't work, after much head scratching I finally worked out that the tacho earth was feeding into the ECA housing, some ECAs I've seen are just mounted in the glove box, but I had a spare space so I thought I would use it.

Interesting the BP 98 I normally use has 2% ethanol content. I can also see fuel temperature by pushing a moment switch on the ECA mounting bracket, but what you can use this reading for is a mystery. The ECA has two outputs that are sent in a 0-5 volt signal to my ECU so that it can alter fuel and ignition maps to suit the ethanol content of my fuel.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/zeit_zpse92dddc6.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/zeit_zpse92dddc6.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/zeit1_zps6faa38f5.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/zeit1_zps6faa38f5.jpg.html)

SuperRSi

February 1st 2015, 16:02

I really need that rear wing decklid to hide my STi intercooler build. The link for them is dead. Anyone over there still building them?

Thanks
Randy

70Turbobug

February 3rd 2015, 08:09

I can also see fuel temperature by pushing a moment switch on the ECA mounting bracket, but what you can use this reading for is a mystery.

The temperature greatly affects the density of the fuel and therefore actual performance. That´s good info,especially in hot countries..

Steve C

February 10th 2015, 06:09

Hi

Tomei pon cams arrived today, thanks to jessestreeter.com

So now that I have everything I started looking deeper into hooking up the ECU to see the flex fuel sensor.

The plug n play Autronic SM4 is showing its age and its not easily configurable to run a flex fuel sensor, I need to fit missing pins into the stock ECU plugs.

So Haltech do a plug n play but it needs an upgrades MAP sensor as the one fitted only goes to 22 psi, its $1975 + $129 for a 30 psi MAP sensor.

Adaptronic do a e1280s stand alone unit for $1990 that has some better features than both the Haltech and Autronic but it needs to be wired in.

My tuner prefers Adaptronic http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/e1280s/

So I will need to do some thinking

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/cams_zps592b8037.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/cams_zps592b8037.jpg.html)

Steve C

February 14th 2015, 20:51

Hi

I've been rethinking the water line layout for my ice box & intercooler. I only use the ice box for drag racing and tuning on the dyno. I was sending the ice water to the intercooler radiator at the front of the car after it had been through the intercooler which was was picking up more heat. With this new arrangement I can recirculate the chilled water in a closed loop which I think should make it last longer

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/intercoolerwaterlines_zps15406c28.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/intercoolerwaterlines_zps15406c28.jpg.html)

Steve C

February 18th 2015, 05:29

Hi

At the suggestion of Ricola I fitted another tap in the intercooler plumbing to close of the H, so when not in ice cooling mode all of the water goes to the front cooler.

All this go faster stuff is making me think about a brake upgrade.

I have 996 rears on the front with 930 rotors which work really well.

I saw some Boxster fronts on eBay and got them at really good price, just sourcing some rotors now.

Bought some more parts for my brake upgrade, some 944 hubs, thanks to Wayne Penrose for these and I bought some DBA Boxster front rotors from Tyler at 999 Automotive.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/porschebrakes_zpsc4b1f409.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/porschebrakes_zpsc4b1f409.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/boxsterrotor944hubs_zps84c283c6.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/boxsterrotor944hubs_zps84c283c6.jpg.html)

Wally

February 18th 2015, 13:12

Nice rotors! What size are they and with what weight?

Steve C

February 18th 2015, 18:24

Hi Wally

Thanks, they are 298 x 24, not sure about the weight, I will get back to you, they are just better premium replacement ones for a 986 with slots from DBA http://www.dba.com.au/catalogue/online-catalogue/

Steve

Steve C

April 25th 2015, 05:07

Hi

I had a bit of a mishap.

I parked my bug in our driveway, just up the hill from my house, I was on my way out, I musnt have pulled the handbrake on hard enough, it rolled down the driveway and hit my sons car and ran into a huge rock at our front door.

Damage was two rear aero fender, one tailight, one wheel, rear apron, bumper bar, exhaust cross pipe, couple of cam gears and their covers, water pump and thermostat housing,

My sons car needs front and rear bumpers, 1 bumper bracket and a drivers side fender, were going to fit Aero fenders to it now and give it a bit of a freshen up.

Feel like an idiot but at least no one was hurt.

Car is fixed now just waiting on getting the motor back with the damage fixed and the new cams installed.

While waiting for the motor Ive fitted the Boxster front brakes.

I'm also going stand alone ECU, an Adaptronic 1280

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF1439.1_zps5ztf4tev.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/DSCF1439.1_zps5ztf4tev.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF1442.1_zpsxeyozpqa.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/DSCF1442.1_zpsxeyozpqa.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/DSCF1437.1_zpstlikbmzz.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/DSCF1437.1_zpstlikbmzz.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/boxster%20front%202_zpsponizl8l.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/boxster%20front%202_zpsponizl8l.jpg.html)

70Turbobug

April 27th 2015, 08:46

That really sucks! That must have been a steep hill!

H2OSB

April 27th 2015, 15:58

Steve, the damage to your car almost makes me weep.

Steve C

April 27th 2015, 17:22

Thanks guys, the motor took a lot of the impact, when it was stripped down the drivers side exhaust cam pulley was stripped out in the centre, lucky the motor was switched off. Insurance covered all the costs luckily.

NO_H2O

April 28th 2015, 09:49

That sucked. Glad the insurance covered you.

graham

May 3rd 2015, 10:13

Thats a real shame:(,glad the insurance has covered it and no one was hurt.

Steve C

July 21st 2015, 18:32

Hi

Car is back on the road, it lost power when the Tomei Pon cams were fitted, its a complete mystery, triple checked everything.

So I had the new Adaptronic ECU tuned on 98 RON and E85, its using a GM sensor so the ECU will adjust mixture and timing depending on the mix, boost is either low for 98 or higher for E85 using a Turbosmart eBoost.

The motor wouldn't take any more than 21 psi on E85 and would have an ignition breakdown, its running stock coil on plugs so I might be going to to LS2 truck coils soon.

It making 245 kW on E85 and has picked up a bucket load of torque, it hits very hard.

I setup a launch control through the ECU using the speed sensor in the G50 so at 0KPH its limited to 5000 rpm where it makes about 2 psi boost, as soon as the car moves 1 of the 8 segments in the G50 speed sensor tells the ECU to switch of launch control. It will be hard on the motor but Im only going to use it sparingly.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/jez.1_zpsxz73h5zs.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/jez.1_zpsxz73h5zs.jpg.html)

Steve C

July 21st 2015, 18:35

Hi

When I was checking my cam timing etc I needed to remove the timing belt, I made a tool to lock the crank pulley and another I bought to lock cam gears on one side as they tend to spin violently when the belt is released which could bend valves.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/EJ%20crank%20pulley%20tool_zpsx3df5hum.jpg~origina l (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/EJ%20crank%20pulley%20tool_zpsx3df5hum.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/EJ%20cam%20gear%20lock_zpswymkjcro.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/EJ%20cam%20gear%20lock_zpswymkjcro.jpg.html)

Steve C

July 21st 2015, 18:37

Hi

I had to fit new tailights to my car after the crash, I fitted and extra stop light bulb using a section off an old bulb holder.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/extra%20stop%20light_zps5feqrby2.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/extra%20stop%20light_zps5feqrby2.jpg.html)

Steve C

July 21st 2015, 18:39

Hi

I went a car show a few hours down the coast, I found my old 1302 which I sold in 2004 so I parked next to it to get a few photos.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/old%20and%20new%20bug.2_zpsyxlb2yck.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/old%20and%20new%20bug.2_zpsyxlb2yck.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/old%20and%20new%20bug.1_zpsh0svr4rp.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/old%20and%20new%20bug.1_zpsh0svr4rp.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/old%20and%20new%20bug_zpstaoceo9s.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/old%20and%20new%20bug_zpstaoceo9s.jpg.html)

Fiatdude

July 22nd 2015, 01:44

Pictures are dead to me LOL

Steve C

July 22nd 2015, 05:36

There in photobucket, so are they not showing up?

Fiatdude

July 22nd 2015, 09:19

nope

H2OSB

July 22nd 2015, 10:31

I see them fine

Steve C

July 22nd 2015, 19:18

Funny that, I tried to load them into the message through the forum and as usual they wouldn't load

Flintstones

July 23rd 2015, 07:16

Pics work for me

Steve C

July 30th 2015, 00:43

Hi

My coil on plugs ignition system was letting me down. Thanks to AFI in Peakhurst I bought some LS2 truck coils along with connectors for a good price, when I get these hooked up I will go back to the dyno for some more boost.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/LS2%20truck%20coils_zpsjbrbeekl.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/LS2%20truck%20coils_zpsjbrbeekl.jpg.html)

Steve C

September 14th 2015, 08:12

Hi

I bought some 6x15 Cookie cutter and had new tyres fitted, 205/50x15 Mickey Thompsons and 195/55x15 Goodyears.

Running at VW only drag meet in a few weeks time, I have been running 245/40x18 Mickeys at the drags and the Snowy Moutains 1000.

The 18s had a diameter of 651mm, the 15s have a diameter of 588mm so these should help with acceleration.

1st gear @ 8000rpm will now do 73 instead of 82 kph
2nd gear @ 8000rpm will now do 125 instead of 139 kph
3rd gear @ 8000rpm will now do 182 instead of 197 kph
4th gear @ 8000rpm will now do 239 instead of 258 kph
5th gear @ 8000rpm will now do 299 instead of 323 kph, all theoretical of course

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/15%20inch%20Mikeys_zpseozfdscv.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/15%20inch%20Mikeys_zpseozfdscv.jpg.html)

Steve

Steve C

September 14th 2015, 08:16

Hi

Just had my exhaust coated at Hi Octane coatings in Rydalmere, they did a great job. So hopefully more power for the Snowy Mountains 1000.

I also found that my infernal, sorry internal wastegate was open which now explains the funny noise the motor was making, not to mention that power had dropped off, sounded like squeaking cam belt bearing, I've been pulling parts off the car for weeks trying to track down the noise.

Also took the opportunity to fit a better up pipe. I also put an extra spring in my wastegate, its now running 19 psi gate pressure.

Another tune next week with LS2 truck coils, should make more power

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/dump_zpsk4wu6xjw.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/dump_zpsk4wu6xjw.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/up%20pipe_zps5g3dkcpi.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/up%20pipe_zps5g3dkcpi.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/exhaust%20stubs_zpsy2vop7f4.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/exhaust%20stubs_zpsy2vop7f4.jpg.html)

Steve

Wally

September 14th 2015, 09:23

The 15" tire combo is certainly a good idea with dragracing. You only mention ratio's, but the weight advantage might help even more ;-)

Didn;t know that the suby had log-style exhaust manifolds!? Even more power, especially up top, can be had with a decent 4 into 1 exhaust header.

Best of luck at the races!

H2OSB

September 14th 2015, 15:59

The wheels look gorgeous!

Hi

I bought some 6x15 Cookie cutter and had new tyres fitted, 205/50x15 Mickey Thompsons and 195/55x15 Goodyears.

Running at VW only drag meet in a few weeks time, I have been running 245/40x18 Mickeys at the drags and the Snowy Moutains 1000.

The 18s had a diameter of 651mm, the 15s have a diameter of 588mm so these should help with acceleration.

1st gear @ 8000rpm will now do 73 instead of 82 kph
2nd gear @ 8000rpm will now do 125 instead of 139 kph
3rd gear @ 8000rpm will now do 182 instead of 197 kph
4th gear @ 8000rpm will now do 239 instead of 258 kph
5th gear @ 8000rpm will now do 299 instead of 323 kph, all theoretical of course

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/15%20inch%20Mikeys_zpseozfdscv.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/15%20inch%20Mikeys_zpseozfdscv.jpg.html)

Steve

Steve C

September 14th 2015, 17:03

Hi

Thanks guys. The 15 inch wheels are very light compared to 18x8 Cayenne wheels and 245/40 Mickey Thompsons I was using.

These tyres really hook up well and I think they will still work good even though they are smaller width.

I'm not that much into drag racing, I mainly bought these for when but when I do the Snowy 1000 its on an airport runway so no burnouts or slicks are allowed.

I've match ported the exhaust headers to the heads, there are Subarus running 9s with stock headers. None of the off the shelf 4 into 1 headers work very well on a Beetle, they are way too low.

Steve

ricola

September 15th 2015, 15:03

Any pics with the new wheels on Steve? I do quite fancy a smaller set with some semi-slicks but would have to get the fitment right... The Vredesteins I've got stuck really well at Spa though so not sure how much I'd gain.

Steve C

September 15th 2015, 17:14

Hi Rich

I will put them on in 2 weeks, I'm going to a VW drag event then, road trip this weekend to Canberra and the tune next week. I'm really interested to see the improvement in acceleration with smaller wheels.

With my 944 rear arms the 6 inch wheels fill the rear quiet nicely, not sure how the front will look.

Steve

Steve C

September 25th 2015, 01:14

Hi

Just got back from the tuner.

Gone from 229 kW to 277 kW.

I've fitted Tomei Pon cams, Adaptronic 1280 ecu with E85 flex tune (it can run normal 98 RON unleaded), LS2 truck coils, larger up pipe, so its now making 277 kW, cant wait to drive it in anger, VW only 1/8 drag meet coming up in October.

The MAP sensor died on the dyno last night, so a 2 hour train trip home, borrowed a MAP sensor from my sons drift car, drove the tow Prado up with a trailer on and the tune was finished this morning.

I've done three road trips on E85 so far no worries getting it.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/dvs%20e85%20tune_zpstrwq5hpv.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/dvs%20e85%20tune_zpstrwq5hpv.jpg.html)

Fiatdude

September 25th 2015, 10:09

377HP is very nice -- Well done -- My Ghia goes in for it's E85 tune at Westech in Mira Loma Oct 5th -- I don't believe I'll be able to match your number though LOL

The magic air pressure number for those Drag Radial is 10 to 10.5 psi -- That is where they really started working on my old Fiat (and other people's cars)

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/Fiatdude/ScannedPicture2.jpg~original (http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Fiatdude/media/ScannedPicture2.jpg.html)

Steve C

September 25th 2015, 17:33

Thanks for the tip, do they feel OK at high speeds with that little pressure?

Loving E85, motor runs 10-15 C cooler, thermo fan have hardly come on

Fiatdude

September 25th 2015, 18:02

Yep no issues -- -- I would drive them on the freeways here at 70-75 mph with them down that low just because I was too lazy to fill them back up after racing LOL -- -- Don't know how they would work on a twisty course that low...... but there was defiantly a line there at that pressure where above it they would just spin and below they would hook, and everybody I know that has ran them has said the same thing

Steve C

September 25th 2015, 18:43

Thanks Im only using them on straight line stuff, the Snowy Moutains 1000 is one car per run 1000 metre drag race, last year with only 229 kW I got up to 226 kph, this year I should go a bit quicker.

Wally

September 27th 2015, 03:39

Nice progress Steve!
Do you have a RPM calibrated dyno sheet as well? I am always interested at what hp combo's have at 4000 rpm ;-)

(what turbo did you use again?)

Steve C

September 27th 2015, 06:16

Hi Wally

Its a GTX30/76R, I will see if I can get an RPM dyno sheet, these runs were done in 4th gear.

I think this is about as far as I can take this combo now, its a unopened low klm motor, we probably could have pushed it more but I really think I have enough power for a while, I want to do a few track days now and get used to the power.

If I wanted to go further I could stoke it, do some headwork and fit stronger valve springs.

Steve

Wally

September 27th 2015, 07:05

GTX3076R! Thats the new billet ball bearing from Garret, nice!
Its interesting as I use an equally size turbo from Borg Warner, but the cheaper plain bearing cast version ;-)
Power is at the rear wheels or converted to flyweel hp?

Tnx!

Steve C

September 27th 2015, 07:30

Thats at the wheels, the turbo is one made to bolt onto a stock Subaru manifold

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/IHIGTX1_zpse037fa81.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/IHIGTX1_zpse037fa81.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/IHIGTX_zpsebb1e091.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/IHIGTX_zpsebb1e091.jpg.html)

Wally

September 27th 2015, 12:32

Thats at the wheels, the turbo is one made to bolt onto a stock Subaru manifold

Ah, is it a 'DOM3' (Blouch) turbo then maybe?
I had the old one of those.

277 kW ATW = about 433 hp flywheel (15%) at 1,65 bar boost.
Sounds much better haha!

Steve C

September 27th 2015, 16:34

Hi Wally

This is the kit I bought http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/att-atp-sub-021-atp-turbo-gtx3076r-turbo

Steve C

October 11th 2015, 02:03

Hi

Photo with the Cookies, I prefer the look of my 18s.

I was down 3 psi at the 1/8 meeting, I didnt do very well, still getting used to the car, the Mickeys being so skinny needed a good burnout, lots of redlights. The launch control worked great, just fitted a B&M line lock so I will go and run the 1/4 soon at my local track.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/cookies_zpsqfxfsbtf.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/cookies_zpsqfxfsbtf.jpg.html)

Steve C

December 4th 2015, 20:52

Hi

I went down to Cooma again and ran my Beetle at the Snowy Mountains 1000, it’s a bit like a drag race but only a single car at a time and at over 1000 metres on Cooma airport runway, it’s much longer than a traditional ¼ mile which is only 402.336 metres.

There was an amazing variety of cars running, even an electric Radical race car and a strong contingent of VWs.

This year I had a bit of completion in my class, I guy I work with ran his immaculate Datsun 1600 powered by a 350 kW SR20 engine, he was about 1.5 seconds quicker than me and took the class win, I came second. I finished at about 50th out of 135 cars.

This year I did few things to my car to make it run faster and I managed to go a bit quicker, last year my best time was 22.513 seconds @ 226 km/h, this year I did 22.3247 @ 236.7 km/h, I had 4 runs, two where I went from 2nd gear to fifth gear one were my coolant overflow sprayed onto my ignition coils and the one where I got my best time which wasn’t a very good run as it was late in the day and I had a lot of wheel spin off the line, so car is going great, driver needs more time doing angry gear changes. Can’t wait till next year.

A video of my least crappy run https://youtu.be/wQS_nG_2E_k

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowy%202015.1_zpsxxoojjzg.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowy%202015.1_zpsxxoojjzg.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowy%202015.2_zpsqfcuvjwr.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowy%202015.2_zpsqfcuvjwr.jpg.html)

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z328/1303Steve/snowy%202015_zps05xledha.jpg~original (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/1303Steve/media/snowy%202015_zps05xledha.jpg.html)

The VW/Audi times

SALLY-ANNE HAINS AUDI RS6 0:20.5470

SEBASTIAN NAJDER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:21.7327

STEPHEN MULLER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:22.1637

STEVE CARTER VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 0:22.3247

GRANT HAYES AUDI S4 0:23.1235

MARCO MAK AUDI S3 0:24.0880

KEVIN ATKINSON VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:24.4159

KRISTOPHER MULLER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF PIR 0:25.3367

TOBY FINDLAY AUDI S5 0:25.9065

MATHEW CAMERON SKODA FABIA RS 0:26.1783

WAYNE PENROSE VOLKSWAGEN KARMANN G 0:26.3953

MADELINE MOLNAR VOLKSWAGEN POLO GTI 0:27.3311

GLENN TORRENS VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 0:27.9867

DARREN RANSON VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1.4 0:28.2414

MICHAEL MOLNAR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R32 0:28.3278

Wally

December 5th 2015, 04:29

Very cool event and great pics Steve! Congrats! 236 km/h is moving!

The 1000 meter distance is interesting as this puts it in the 'Landspeed racing' category.

If you also have the speeds with that last summery of all VW's that ran, my friend the vw landspeed historian Burly Burlile would be extremely happy ;)

Walter

Steve C

December 14th 2015, 08:31

Hi

The car feels very stable at these speeds, hopefully more speed next year.

a video of my best run which was still up the **** https://youtu.be/wQS_nG_2E_k

I just sent a list of results to Burly.

kph and times of above VAG cars

SALLY-ANNE HAINS AUDI RS6 0:20.5470 254.1 kph

SEBASTIAN NAJDER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:21.7327 232.8 kph

STEPHEN MULLER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:22.1637 238.3 kph

STEVE CARTER VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 0:22.3247 236.7 kph

GRANT HAYES AUDI S4 0:23.1235 226.3 kph

MARCO MAK AUDI S3 0:24.0880 212.8 kph

KEVIN ATKINSON VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R 0:24.4159 218 kph

KRISTOPHER MULLER VOLKSWAGEN GOLF PIR 0:25.3367 209.1 kph

TOBY FINDLAY AUDI S5 0:25.9065 201.5 kph

MATHEW CAMERON SKODA FABIA RS 0:26.1783 196.5 kph

WAYNE PENROSE VOLKSWAGEN KARMANN G 0:26.3953 191.7 kph

MADELINE MOLNAR VOLKSWAGEN POLO GTI 0:27.3311 189.3 kph

GLENN TORRENS VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 0:27.9867 178 kph

DARREN RANSON VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1.4 0:28.2414 184 kph

MICHAEL MOLNAR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF R32 0:28.3278 181.2 kph

Steve C

December 26th 2015, 01:02

Hi

This is a professional video of the Snowy Mountains 1000, I'm interviewed. https://youtu.be/vw-HameNCl0

Steve

Wally

December 26th 2015, 05:33

Very cool report and great they interviewed you!
Good speed!

Steve C

December 26th 2015, 08:51

thanks, the guy who interviewed me is a friend of my son, he works at Turbosmart and they have been really helpful

graham

December 28th 2015, 15:29

Hi

This is a professional video of the Snowy Mountains 1000, I'm interviewed. https://youtu.be/vw-HameNCl0

Steve

Great stuff Steve :D

H2OSB

January 1st 2016, 13:15

Holy crap Steve!! You went 148mph! I bet you were getting close to a dimensional shift at that speed!

Nice!

Steve C

January 1st 2016, 17:25

Thanks, lots more in it I cant wait till next time in November, 148 mph sounds faster that 236 kph somehow

cookvw

January 2nd 2016, 00:36

thats awesome! was cool to put a face to your amazing car after watching the video.

Steve C

January 2nd 2016, 03:41

Thanks, as you can see Im an old bloke, but love my cars

Steve C

February 20th 2016, 09:39

Hi

I went to Sydney Motorsport Park soon for a twilight supersprint on the Gardener circuit.

I've recently done some suspension improvements and I have about 70 more kilowatts so I was expecting to have some fun.

Well lots more kilowatts and a wet track dont go well together, I was running on low boost for two laps in the rain got overconfident and put the boost up to the next level lost traction and hit the wall coming onto the main straight.

I bent a lower control arm, broke the bottom off a strut, creased the front 1/4 panel, broke two mudguards and a headlight but worst of all is I bent the chassis at the torsion bar housing and the front part of chassis where the sway bar bolts on.

I always regretted putting so much weight in steel into my chassis, so I have a spare chassis that I was saving for a rainy day at the side of my garage, it will get modified with less steel this time, I will be doing much the same as Ricola did with his chassis.

Steve