View Full Version : Vw 1300 72'

May 5th 2011, 14:14
I'm going to introduce my project, which has been going on many years. Car is originally 72' 1300.

First it was just plain "hotrodded" latemodel beetle, then it got bigger and bigger engine (1835cc-2276cc), and few years ago rollgage for insane street and strip driving...:D

Now, total rebuild has been going on few years, repairing body (body off restoration), purchasing parts etc. New rollgage will be installed, IRS suspension with 944 alloy arms , 996/Boxster brembos etc, front rotors 330x28, rear rotors 299x24.

Engine will be 2600cc+ type 1 based 86 stroke 98+ bore engine with nickies, fi and so on.

T1 Transaxle sold, now porsche 915 in thoughts.

Few old pics here, also lots of pics will be coming:



May 5th 2011, 15:22
Body has been lifted off, and pan repairing has been just done. New floors and irs brackets have been installed. Also special seat frames for recaros have been made.





June 8th 2011, 14:15
330x28 wilwood gt series rotor and 996 caliper. Fits wery well inside to 996/997 17" spare



I have decided to abandon torsionbar front suspension with coilovers and r&p steering, and putting mendeola a-arm suspension. No turning back anymore, decision is final :)


Going to order some lasercut parts, including solid mounting tabs for rear swaybar:


June 10th 2011, 16:09
330x28 wilwood gt series rotor and 996 caliper. Fits wery well inside to 996/997 17" spare



I have decided to abandon torsionbar front suspension with coilovers and r&p steering, and putting mendeola a-arm suspension.

Going to order some lasercut parts, including solid mounting tabs for rear swaybar:



Kevin "Coolrydes" Zagar here from Mendeola. Just let me know when you order your front end kit, as we already have rear sway bar mounts for our rear end kit and I'll toss in a set with your kit......

June 13th 2011, 03:18
Thanks, but i have kerscher rear swaybar coming, so i have designed these brackets to fit with it.

August 16th 2011, 08:09
New plans, sold my T1 IRS box with quaife, now trying to get hands to early magcased 915 with 7:31=4,43 R & P. Almost got one, but it was sold away quickly.

Of course i will use Bug@5-speed conversion parts :)

Thinking to get rebuilt the 915 trans and adding LSD, maybe Wevo sidecover and bearing retainer plate.


Someday also will be mendeola a-arm kit coming, trying to arrange cheap overseas shipping, think i have found..

August 16th 2011, 12:04

that is one clean box..

August 16th 2011, 14:51
Sorry, haha, thats not my box :) I think magnesium version will look more "scruffy" than that aluminum version on the pic. I prefer mag cased 915 with shorter 7:31 R&P. Still trying to find one.

August 17th 2011, 10:26
Very nice build! thanks for sharing.
Interested in your 98+mm bore niksils, like wall thickness and head spigot bore. Very 'extreme'! so very cool to watch.

August 19th 2011, 03:33
I'v done cad modeling about the cylinders and heads. You can have JPM heads with wbx stud pattern and desired bore. STD opening on JPM wbx stud pattern heads is 111,1mm

This is cylinder has 98mm bore and 4mm thickness. Head does look quite thin when 111,1mm opening, but thinking if leaving it smaller and using max 100mm bore..




BTW, i found cheap shipping for mendeola a-arm kit, box is 122x96x60cm and weighs 71kg, only 120 euros at boat from LA to Finland :)

August 19th 2011, 05:00
Wow! Drawing looks absolutely stunning!
Now the hard part: putting it into reality. Any plans for how your going to do that?

August 19th 2011, 06:10
Wow is right! Fantastic project! I wish I could do CAD work like that also!

August 20th 2011, 04:29
JPM heads can be bought from stock like that, 4inch bore.

LN engineer nicasils can be custom made, extra cost is 250 dollars, but if dollar to euro rate stays as low as it's now, nickies wont be so expensive. Ok, still quite expensive :rolleyes: But possibly big improvement on a big bore engine.

At the moment mendeola suspension, bodywork and 915 transmission which is still on a shopping list, have made my wallet almost empty, so i have to wait until next year to buy these engine parts

September 4th 2011, 12:21
I must admit that I had though about a very similar set up on mine.
Those MS230 with Nickies are very temting!!!
Post pictures as you get the parts and do the build!:D

November 2nd 2011, 08:46
Teaser here :lol:


I might be lucky and get TF-1 case, LN cylinders, JE pistons and mendeola suspension before christmas :)

November 2nd 2011, 21:20

Yours is in this bunch getting ready to ship.... Keep us posted on the progress...


November 4th 2011, 19:01
Me like it very much!!!:D

April 5th 2012, 15:24
At last, i got mine:D



Hubs and hats are still on order, but now i have front and rear rotors and calipers. (rears will be painted with gloss black paint)



At rear also coilovers, but in finland uniball kit must be made by factory, so i chose remmele kit, up is my design made from 7075 aluminum to volksmeister.


April 13th 2012, 19:00
Custom 4" nickies and JE should be here really soon...Also Bugpack 88 flanged crank changed to a Scat 88 flanged (http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1383/9864098/23496461/391962746.jpg) crank, due to a availibility. Bugpack is forged 4340, Scat is forged 4340 to shape, then cnc machined.

There is now second head option for really big bore T1 head, instead of just JPM head, i think its german made head. Lots of cooling finns :)




April 13th 2012, 21:03
This is kinda blowing my mind, that's just beautiful:shocked:


May 5th 2012, 15:08
Mendeola kit has been now stripped from parts and ready get aligned to the chassis..any day soon:lmao:



Hub and hat design has been finalised now, they will be made in few weeks. 1000€ + vat includes TUV legal paper, so thats way they cost so much. But if i need spare hubs or hats, i'll have made them at half of the price at tommisbillet.com (http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11466) :)


Mendeola front suspension widens the front 8mm per side, and my hub design ads 12mm, so total is 20mm. I have 3cm wider kerscher fenders and kerscher say that with these fenders fit 7" et19 wheel + 205/50 tire combination with stock width axle.

I am planning to use 7,5x18 et50 wheels and 215/40R18 tires at front, should fit well according to offset calculator:


May 7th 2012, 16:12
Since i decided to use porsche fan from GWD, like my friend here, i need to use external oilcooler.


I was thinking to use porsche 911 mocal 50 row x 115 matrix oilcooler, outer dimensions are 2" x 6.5" x 13.5". Or smaller similar if it doesnt fit.

Here i made a quick sketch where its placed in front of mendeola a-arm suspensions, dont know yet if there is room enough.


May 7th 2012, 16:41
That 'RS head' is actually not made by RS Motor themselves, but by the same guy that makes the nice tool steel lifters and DS pumps ;-)
Keep the oil cooler small as you won't need a large one. If anything, the alu cylinders cool the oil extremely well.
Nice progress, will be a monster!

May 8th 2012, 01:33
Yeah, i know, isnt these heads made by Thorsten Pieper?

Progress since last summer has not been great, but finally cylinders+pistons and case are coming.

I would have had the case already, but Todd at precisionalloy found that recently made cases all had little too tight clearance between cam and crank bearing bore, boring fixture did have loose bushing.

So he offered me the tight case at half price (about $750), and with lapping the cam gear lash would been okay. But if the case would have not been good enough me, he would give me a free case from new batch. I chose to wait the better case from his new batch, he said that there was few improvements.

At my power levels, no turbo, so decide to choose best vw transmission, bus box with all weddle gears, using berg 5-kit. Should handle 300hp, maybe needs extra cooling if driven continously over 130mph :D Just the idea of slow shifting 915 doesnt interest so much..Early shortnose G50 with lower R&P would be fun, but the costs...

May 8th 2012, 04:20
Yeah, those are his indeed ;-)
Didn't see those pics on RSmotor website though? I have seen TP post those pics from himself though. Do you have a connection at RSmotor or something who offered them to you?

With all these elaborate measures and high end parts, I don;t understand why you don;t go the route Thorsten went himself too; WBX case converted to air. His heads were developed with that case in mind originally.
Likewise the gearbox: tbh, I chose my G50 because of the low total costs! Because its strong and shifts beautifully originally from the factory already! I haven't done anything to it, just making it fit, which costs only time mostly. Its only the initial cost of the G50 and thats it, no special weddle gears, intermediate thingy's, 5th gear conversions and the long wait and hoping they will deliver and someone will build it right for you the first time...
You just can;t beat a factory-strong 'right-in-the-first-place' transmission.
Just my .02 as they say ;-)

May 8th 2012, 05:56
First i wanted WBX case, but you can put longer stroke to TF-1 case, due to 0.100" dropped cam line. It has also trough bolts like T4 ;) But wbx case is very good.

G50 is definetly great, but i dont like long ratios, like 3.33 R&P and 3.5 or 3.15 first gear or similar. Too bad that lower R&P ratios cost so much for these transaxles, otherwise best porsche trans. But for turbo motor good choice :)


EDIT: I think i'll need to rethink these ratios, G50/00 , G50/01 and G50/03 sounds better than rest, these have 3.44 R&P and 3.5 first gear.

I found this new type of head from cal-look.no, i may have confused, these heads are only offered by T. Pieper



Again some gear ratio calculating with 63cm tire;

1. pic: G50/00


2. pic: VW T1 with custom ratios


3. pic: VW bus berg 5 custom ratios


May 24th 2012, 14:16
I got my LN engineering custom cylinders and JE pistons, holy ****! I have never had so light and shiny pistons and cylinders :)

Pistons are FSR type, even lighter and stronger than normal JE, they are with 27mm compression height.

Cylinders are with 94mm mahle outer dimensions and WBX stud spacing.

Ok, now waiting "the experts" from Cal-look come to say these are totally unnecessary :lmao::p



May 24th 2012, 14:43
Very nice! The FSR type is a recent piston type that JE now also sells for most all car makes as an aftermarket upgrade.
Good choice!

I see you looked into the G50 ratios also. I'am sure if you had a drive in my car, you'd agree that the ratios are ~perfect for a tuned engine in a bug with 17 or 18" rims.
Don;t get too hang-up on the stroke you can go on another case as longer strokes are not always helpfull to get more power. They always flex more then you'l realize. Better heads with more rpm is the way for a performance engine imo.

May 24th 2012, 14:55
Yeah, long strokes are more prone to flexing especially at high rpm use, maybe lighter pistons and rods help a bit. Thats way i decided to use all T4 mains scat billet crank. Probably limiting the rpm to 7000-7300.

May 24th 2012, 14:59
So what stroke are you considering that requires a .10" cam drop?

May 24th 2012, 15:29
Nah, 86 or 88 stroke doesnt require cam drop.

Got yesterday energysuspension sway bar bushings for weldable brackets to use with kerscher swaybar. A lot harder polyurethane than kerscher ones, and fits everyway better to my brackets than kerscher ones ( Obiwan is getting the same set also )

I also have now drill jig for safety wiring, easy to drill holes to bolts :D Recommended with wilwood rotors and hats with threads.


May 24th 2012, 15:58
nice project...

June 1st 2012, 14:55
Nice extreme project! :cool:

June 1st 2012, 14:57
I never heard about mendola front, otherwis i maybay didn't sold my black and white bug.. :confused:
Looks very nice!!!

June 4th 2012, 15:02
Keep going Alex, your project and the technical choices are definitively greats !

June 5th 2012, 03:17
Project goes on, sometimes little slow progress. But still progress.

I did over year ago crank+rod order from DRD, newer got the parts. Now he promised to return the money...well we see. Then gotta try different shop.

I was thinking to put Scat billet flanged crank, either 86 stroke or 88 stroke with all t4 mains. Wonder if there is any bad, like more rod angle or crank flex if choosing 88 stroke.

Case is sure the strongest what you can get. Scat billet cranks should be strong, well they are not exactly billet, forged to shape and then all surfaces machined smooth like big companies forged race cranks (Callies, Lunati etc)

July 3rd 2012, 09:45
Well, hubs and hats are ready, only need anodizing. Also got adjustable shocks from QA1 to front.



July 3rd 2012, 09:59

July 4th 2012, 10:03

July 29th 2012, 07:05
I got flanged crank with flywheel, Scat billet / forged 86 stroke, all t4 mains, chevy rod journals.


July 31st 2012, 12:23
I have chosen this setrab 490x136x40 oilcooler, it will be mounted to the mendeola bulkhead. It isnt straight at the airstream, so i may need to make ducting to the oilcooler, is there any front spoiler for that has hole or "mouth"r?


September 21st 2012, 16:04
I am thinking exact location and angle for oilcooler, hot air does need to be displace somehow. Maybe making few round holes to the mendeola front plate(!)

I might go also for custom made front spoiler that has hole and airchannel that directs air to the cooler.


This went to order, at the moment only 3 kits left :) So many ratios to choose between 2-5th gears..



With albins/weddle gears including mainshaft and strong transaxle case, trans should be quite strong.


These ratios were recommended by Rancho, speeds are at 3000rpm

Choice 1:

R&P 4.13

1. 3.11= 28.28 km/h

2. 1.93 = 45.57 km/h

3. 1.3 = 67.66 km/h

4. 0.93 = 94.58 km/h

5. 0.77 = 114.23 km/h

RPM drop when shifting to bigger gear

1-2 1240rpm

2-3 980rpm

3-4 850 rpm

4-5 520rpm

Choice 2:

R&P 4.13

1. 3.11 = 28.28 km/h

2. 1.93 = 45.57 km/h

3. 1.35 = 65.15 km/h

4. 1.04 = 84.57 km/h

5. 0.77 = 114.23 km/h

RPM drop when shifting to bigger gear

1-2 1240rpm

2-3 900rpm

3-4 690 rpm

4-5 780rpm

Choice 3:

R&P 4.13

1. 2.90 = 30.33 km/h

2. 1.86 = 47.29 km/

3. 1.26 = 69.81 km/

4. 0.93 = 94.58 km/h

5. 0.77 = 114.23 km/h

RPM drop when shifting to bigger gear

1-2 1080rpm

2-3 970rpm

3-4 790 rpm

4-5 520rpm

January 31st 2013, 12:16
Okay, i went with these ratios ( 3000rpm ), theoritically 250km/h is achieved at 6570rpm.

1. 3.44= 25.5 km/h

2. 1.93 = 45.5 km/h

3. 1.3 = 67.7 km/h

4. 1.00 = 88 km/h

5. 0.77 = 114.2 km/h

Also been talkin to Thorsten Pieper, i am going to buy his bare heads and stuff them with type 4 48x38 valves and JPM springs and retainers. And little porting :)



One finnish guy said by looking the pictures that JPM heads are a lot of better and theirs intake ports are better flowing and more straight than Thorstens heads. Yeah right:lmao:

I cannot see the difference..


January 31st 2013, 16:07
I agree the ports and heads look very similar, just more fins with Thorsten's heads :-)
Thorsten doesn't have a flow bench himself, so i think with some porting done with a flow bench at hand, the head flow will be easily matched by a good head porter.

January 31st 2013, 16:47
I asked more about the heads, valves etc and how they flow etc. :) If i am correct at calculations, he has over 245 engine hp :D


Hello Alex,

if it´s possible to get 240cfm / 25", I don´t know (but I think so).....all I can say is, that my current motor have 215HP at 6300rpm and 271Nm at the Wheels!!!!!!

It´s an 2,7l WBX with my heads (46x39), an 328° german cam, twin spark, 50mm throttle bodys, and 45mm CSP Python.

In this time I´m build an 2,8l (86x101,6) and my heads (48x39).
I think into 4 weeks the head comes on the flow bench and than we see how good it´s flow with the 48mm intake......

If you want, I can produce your heads without the O-ring seals!! So you can port much as you want....


May 18th 2013, 07:45
In a few weeks i am getting my heads, this is new improved version of the billet head, intakeports are much better on this than on older version.

Also the case is almost ready from Todd at Precisionalloy, case is now at Roger Crawford for installation of bronze trhust bearing setup and porsche oilsquirters. Todd says that these newest batch of cases has some improvements over older ones.

Case will have different type of bronze thrust bearin setup, first bearing on 1st main web and second on 2nd main web, there is more metal left to the case then.










August 15th 2013, 14:51
Got some valvetrain parts, JPM Ti retainers, Manley 48x38 117mm valves, Berg locks, 13/12mm guides.

Later JPM dual springs and seats, and then to the headporter.


September 8th 2013, 15:56
TF-1 case arrived with hoses, it looks so nice compared to autolinea cases. I checked the hoselenght to car and it seems there is enough for front oilcooler mount and drysump installation. BMW main bearings and bronze thrustbearing came with case. I did trial assembly with crank, cylinders and heads.

The camshaft, connecting rods and oil pump are still missing. I did order from demontweeks a 360x190 (5.7 liters) drysump tank with Mocal thermostat.

End play is pretty tight, about 0.05mm, i will have to sand a bit bronze bearings on the glass. Due to a TF-1 case through bolts and 4 "bore cylinders i had to take a little bit material from cylinders, and possibly to get smaller diameter washers under througbolts.

There was also problem with TF-1 and LN engineering / ARP headstuds, because TF-1 case has no provision for 3rd cylinder deepstud, and ARP kit has one deep stud like stock or normal performance studs.

I am also thinkin to make cad designed rear mount, because case has bus style rear mount.

Also ARP studs for type 1 nickies arent available any more. Todd Francis does not recommend the make the thread deeper - but no problem, fortunately Raceware has suitable equal lenght headstud set that is approved by LN Engineering and they also use them now.








September 8th 2013, 15:58
:lmao::lmao: First i was lazy after posting this to finnish VW forum, so i translated this text with google translator:

Lohkokin already arrived with hoses, hienohan it is. Hoses seems perfectly adequate to get away and are really flexible teräspunosteflonletkuiksi. BMW main bearings and bronze päittäisvälyslaakerit block. I heaped a trial basis in the crankshaft, cylinders and lids with.

The camshaft, connecting rods and oil pump are still missing. 360x190 (5.7 liters) in size kuivasumppusäiliö ordered Mocalin with the thermostat.

End play pretty tight, about 0.05mm, will have to grind a bit päätymmäisiä bronze glass. TF-1 block through bolts and 4 "bore cylinders because had to take a dremel stuff and possibly lower sweepings through bolts.

LN Engineering kansipulttien with became a problem, because in three bowl long tiller bolt, Todd Francis does not recommend the thread to do deeper - no emergency, fortunately Racewarelta can be found in ST Engineering's recommended preferably suitable cover bolt kit and that the LN engineering using T1 and T4 engines, I understand that the ARP brought kansipulttien price time briskly.

September 8th 2013, 16:16
That looks as awesome as promising! Tnx for the update.

September 8th 2013, 16:26
Yeah, its a big leap compared year ago - more parts at the garage :lmao:

Also, tinman/painter :lmao: promised to get working again with beetle, after all normal collision repair etc. Now its time to concentrate with beetle, then A-group Volvo 240, then Ex-Biela Audi 80 supertouring...talk about work :lmao:

September 27th 2013, 18:03
Last week i got from demontweeks a new moonshine tank :D and a Mocal thermostat. Also got one missing ARP stud from LN engineering :)


September 28th 2013, 03:28
Nice! What volume does it have?

September 28th 2013, 17:19
It is 1,5 gallon, total volume is around 9 liters.


November 3rd 2013, 10:30
Soon i get my transaxle, berg 5-speed 091, it should be finished at week 45. I'll get berg custom mounts, since i will center the transaxle, otherwise it would sit 10mm off the center.






I might be in trouble with Mendeola A-arm suspension here in Finland, because it has welded spindles and i might need a document that tells its meant for beetle and most important, its factory made. Billet or Forged spindles would be nice.

No help from Kevin unfortunately anytime soon, but i might have source for special one piece spindles, or just use stock spindles and have made my own upper arms to correct caster and camber..

Allthough i do have also a sketch about the document..it is pretty simple and i could try it first.

Ok, these are things that i should worry when the car is running :)

Soon will have new Megasquirt MS3 based ECU, it has splash proof automotive aluminum box and 56pin automotive connector, unlike typical megasquirt MS3.

Also the relays are built in to the box and it has most if not all the MS3X features.



Also getting two wasted spark VAG coils for twin plug heads





November 3rd 2013, 11:14
Gearbox looks to have pretty stout gears!

December 23rd 2013, 18:37
We got some work done finally, installed Mendeola bulkhead, little rust repair work done and after all rustrepair work is done, rollcage will be tied from mendeola a-arm bulkhead to rear.

I did also recently sell my wilwood front 330x28 rotors, as their manufacturing was discontinued, i got 0,65kg lighter AP racing rotors with larger pcd with DS2500 pads all around.

I heard that mendeola is building over 500hp car with 6 inch wider mendeola suspension, sounds scary fast, and illegal here in finland :D Well at least mine has the best brakes for us small hp guys, only power only half of that.. :)

Not exactly a rust free california car :lmao:








December 30th 2013, 16:25
Done some more bodywork - all should be done in two - three weeks including gage, then after a month or so, paint will laid - two colors i am thinking:

Porsche wimbledon green (darker)

https://www.google.fi/search?q=porsche+wimbledon+green&client=firefox-a&hs=IQ5&rls=org.mozilla:fi:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=udLBUpK5JoPi4QSBrIGIBQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1575&bih=750#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=oI5KaB88eMyMFM%3A%3BP19UVm28RrdBAM%3Bhttp%25 3A%252F%252Fforums.rennlist.com%252Frennforums%252 Fattachments%252Fboxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum%252F464512d1280976617-wimbledon-green-boxster-s-finally-got-it-friday-jacks-boxsters.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.rennlist. com%252Frennforums%252Fboxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum%252F581941-wimbledon-green-boxster-s-finally-got-it-friday.html%3B808%3B606

Porsche ocean jade metallic (lighter)





Also rethinking to support torsionbar tubes by rollgage. I do have also coming a 5-bar käfer cup shock tower support like in a picture, built from kerscher3-bar system.



March 1st 2014, 14:44
Bodywork continues....not exactly a MAT (http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery&gallery=13) standard, but good enough for me.

Will be smoothed and finished before paint.

Got a really bad rap about the work on Finnish VW forum from "Pro's" :rolleyes:



May 18th 2014, 07:40
Sheetmetal work done more, just now left some small welding and rollgage. I got those inner panels from Avery's Aircooled, now the inside looks so clean.







May 18th 2014, 07:54
Might try to fit different drysump tank, which i'd like to fit near the transaxle outside of cabin. Only problem is that there will be a 5 bar shock tower support, so i designed a slim one..


Also found nice steering wheel, not too much tuning style, or too retro ;)


July 21st 2014, 14:18
Hi Alex, did you get the 091 5-speed mounted? I'm looking at a G50 or 091 5-speed, and was curious how your install turned out.


July 23rd 2014, 08:16
excellent work!

July 28th 2014, 18:13
I sold the steeringwheel, it was not the OMP wheel what i wanted (it was made in china), not as nice as black OMP wheels are usually. I just recently ordered JPM Wasp stage 2 exhaust (220-290hp) and Raptor 282@0.050" cam with changed LC, both recommended by Johannes :)

I will change JPM lifters to Udo Becker lightweight tool steel lifters what i have already, also a nice gesture from Udo, that he wants to change this older set of lifters to a newer batch of lifters, eliminating all worries about heattreating etc :) :)

But we havent yet installed the transaxle, car is not in my garage, only 40% of parts are at the moment. I have all the berg mounts for 091, but it pan and body might need modifications. At same time we check the fit of 5-bar shock tower support.



August 7th 2014, 17:44

September 14th 2014, 16:34
Probably forgotten to show transaxle, here it is:



September 14th 2014, 16:40
Sheetmetalworks almost done, we are now fitting the rollcage. Door, seatbelt and baars to the mendeola and rear will be added. Doorbaar will be littlebit lower than before (http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/uB0zfi.jpg), because car will be streetcar and trackdaycar.





September 14th 2014, 16:47
Also ordered today Racers Edge adapter bolts for 944 aluarms to get QA1 coilovers to fit.


September 14th 2014, 21:52
Nice work Alex! I'm building an 002 transmission for my car, but missed the last 5-speed kit from Berg. Interested to see how you mount yours, as i have the the two rubber mounts (641E/643E) that center the cv joints, instead of the engine.

September 15th 2014, 01:44
I dont know what driveshafts will fit, but thinking to use 944 turbo ones.
Yeah, i wanted the engine to be at center, and at some point i am also going to get fabricated a new 911 style front mount, one that doesnt need front rubbers like berg one. Demontweeks sells machianable hard black urethane washers at size 75x25x32, sounds big enough for custom made mount.


September 16th 2014, 15:59
Very cool. I should have time over the next month or so, to start working on my install/mounts. I'm not very happy with the Berg front mount, so keep me posted on yours.


October 3rd 2014, 14:21
Sheetmetal work has been a little slow at start, but now were are doing fine, but as usual, i suspect that getting it painted may take 3-5 weeks.

I sanded half of the roof and sides, a lot less now old paint left, ugh :lmao:

Few days ago we test fitted the seat, fits well and good position with prototype seat frame, i might get eventually a shorter one. Otherwise Recaro seat is tight fit at beetle, sidebars need one bend at least. I insisted to put sidebar front end to low enough, because i am not building a full racecar.

We did put some support from main hoop to rear torsionbar tubes, straight trough hot air vent holes :D

Probably at tomorrow we fit the transaxle and 5 bar käfer cup brace.

Would anybody recommend tube / brace from rollgage to mendeola suspension frame to get extra protection at side / front collision?






October 5th 2014, 09:03
Now fits the seat with doorbars, and doors can be actually closed. Seats are quite wide, so doorbars had to be bent from two locations. Testfitting rear coilovers..






October 5th 2014, 17:58
Nice, keep up the good work!
Those 3piece gold rims look sweet on the last pics ;)

October 14th 2014, 01:59
So far here we are, 99% of sheetmetal work done, and yes, we did put plastic body filler, but only a thin layer, because lines were so straight at repaired places. Unfortunately, i have to postpone painting to next year when budget allows.





October 14th 2014, 11:25
Very nice!!

October 24th 2014, 02:55
Nice progress,I like the brace on the cage from the bottom of the main loop to the torsion tube,I have not seen that done before,clever…:D

Sheetmetal work has been a little slow at start, but now were are doing fine, but as usual, i suspect that getting it painted may take 3-5 weeks.

I sanded half of the roof and sides, a lot less now old paint left, ugh :lmao:

Few days ago we test fitted the seat, fits well and good position with prototype seat frame, i might get eventually a shorter one. Otherwise Recaro seat is tight fit at beetle, sidebars need one bend at least. I insisted to put sidebar front end to low enough, because i am not building a full racecar.

We did put some support from main hoop to rear torsionbar tubes, straight trough hot air vent holes :D

Probably at tomorrow we fit the transaxle and 5 bar käfer cup brace.

Would anybody recommend tube / brace from rollgage to mendeola suspension frame to get extra protection at side / front collision?






October 24th 2014, 13:40
Nice progress,I like the brace on the cage from the bottom of the main loop to the torsion tube,I have not seen that done before,clever…:D

I fully agree! Wondering if there is really movement at the outer torsion tube on heavy acceleration or s/th..?

Steve C
October 24th 2014, 23:37

There is already an unused factory mounting on the outer end of torsion bar tube.


October 26th 2014, 11:56

There is already an unused factory mounting on the outer end of torsion bar tube.


There is indeed, VW deleted the fixing hole and bolt with the 1303, but the torsion tube still has the threaded mounting pad, early 1302's did have the fixings, probably why the 03's handle worse than a shopping trolly;)
And yes, the end of the torsion tube can move, but I use a very simple way to stop it because some more complex methods are not allowed in many race series regulations, first thing is drill the hole and fit the bolt in the stock location, a suitable spacer needs fitting between the body and the torsion tube to snug the bolt down solid, both sides obviously, next, remove all the rubber and the bolt ferrule from the inner wheel arch bracket and make it a solid fixing with suitable square steel plate spacers, in the cup cars, I made a 3mm bracket to support the top shock bolt, this in turn bolted through the inner wheel arch with fixings inside the car, simple and effective, but above all, weighs nothing.

October 26th 2014, 14:03
There is indeed, VW deleted the fixing hole and bolt with the 1303, but the torsion tube still has the threaded mounting pad, early 1302's did have the fixings, probably why the 03's handle worse than a shopping trolly;)

You b*tch! haha! :lmao:

But seriously, any pics of that threaded mounting pad? I am at a loss wrt picturing it...:o

October 26th 2014, 15:43
Gotcha Walter lol.. Hope your well. If you look under the back seat on any B/J Beetle pre '72 , you will see the bolt heads concerned, or should do anyway, some times they rusted out and got broken of and or welded over,,, about in the area where Alex has his brace tube connecting to the Torsion tube. It seems to be deleted on any model after '72, ball joint models included, but the fixing on the torsion tube is still there as Steve correctly said.

October 26th 2014, 16:55
Cheers for that!
I'll have a look next time. As mine is a late model and a super, it sure won't be there in the body, but I should see s/th on the tube housing. Check!

October 26th 2014, 18:06

You can see the hole in the new crossmember on top. I've used them on my cabrio..

October 27th 2014, 03:55
Thanks for the pic! I think I found a new point for an additional brace point to my cage :-)

October 27th 2014, 04:26
Ok, this is new to me also :) Havent really noticed before..or looked :)

October 27th 2014, 12:56
Now fits the seat with doorbars, and doors can be actually closed. Seats are quite wide, so doorbars had to be bent from two locations. Testfitting rear coilovers..



Alex, Wally, Here you can see the mounting pad concerned, just above were the torsion bar end plate fits, also from the mists of time, I seem to remember four bolts used on very early models, ie, two per side. The way I was planning to use it was to make a blind vertical tube about 150mm long and bolted down through the tube to the mounting, then triangulate that between the main roll hoop and and the back stay, I finally slapped myself after asking " do I need he extra weight, and will it make me faster? The answer to both questions was no, but not never.

May 12th 2015, 03:39
Car has been few months at my garage, doing some little fixings. I just might change the painter when its time to paint.



Also bought few german parts for german car at spring :)


July 24th 2015, 14:12
Done some paint removing etc small jobs :) Roof is bald now :D



August 5th 2015, 08:12
Hoses to front oilcooler goes trough pan, one hole is needed to mendeola bulkhead (plate behind front plate).




I'v decided to put the drysump tank to inside cabin, like most of germanlookers what i have seen:


November 10th 2015, 05:00
It looks like that few things at body must be redone again or re-repaired

Nosepiece doesnt fit at right side wery well, tried csp front fender there is about 10-15mm gap between it and fender.

Rear sides needs also redoing, too bumpy and distorted repairs now.

Small things needs fixing, inner fender at right side has few small holes.


February 18th 2016, 09:49
I did assemble at weekend these steel prototype brake parts, hats for AP rotors and bracket for Porsche 996 calipers.

They fit great, spindle seems to turn enough until it hits to lower A-arm. Now very close to the correct design, which for i will be using aluminum. Now at all steel these are heavy as hell :D

In a month or so i start bodywork again, too cold now and not enough sun :)

Also bought my first own Mig welder about two months ago :)


April 20th 2016, 09:42
In a past week i have been fitting berg bus 5-speed.. let the pictures tell most of the story.

Because of the big engine, Rancho etc recommended aluminum bushes instead of rubber bushes with berg mounts.

I did cut the torsionbar tube area at right, but thin sheetmetal above needed just little hammer only.

First i thought of putting hard urethane bushes, and then bigger rubbers 75x50 with threaded M12 ends. Problem with midmount rubber brackets that they may hit to 944 alu IRS arms, so i designed lasercut highstrengt steel 15mm/10mm flat offset steel midmount, instead of rectangular tube.

Any comments? To each end it can handle 350kg loads where 75x50 rubbers are.







April 20th 2016, 13:16
Yeah, with the cross bar you really don't need solid mounting.
I say this because I use original (OEM!) type 1 black rubber bushings at the bell-housing of my G50 and WEVO (upgraded porsche aftermarket) bushes at the (wide) 'nose' mounting point.
The wider the nose mount, the softer the bushing you can use imho ;-)
Never broke any mount, not even after soo many drag race launches, wheels up and all...


December 14th 2016, 05:23
Recently i did order around 20 goodridge teflon hose fittings (AN6-AN8-AN10-AN12) and hardline for fuel. Just to make sure, i did sketch about the fittings.



Probably i will take all valvetrain components too before spring (Oteva 90 springs, Manley 38x117 exhaust valves and JPM pushrods). JPM has replaced the old Oteva 75 springs with newer Oteva 90 springs.

Ï'v been also thinking about the rear brakes. I think i will skip the desing where i have parking brake calipers with existing 986 front calipers.

Choice number 1: Stock 944 turbo 298x24 rotor with 944 parkingbrake shoes - it is the cheapest option, rotors 200€ / pair, brakeshoes 60€

Choice number 2: AP racing 315x25.4 rotors with steelhats and 944 parkingbrake shoes - second cheapest option, rotors 500€ / pair, steelhats 150€ / pair, brakeshoes 60€

Choice number 3: AP racing 300x24 rotors with aluminumhats and with parkingbrake caliper - most expensive choice,o rotors 500€ / pair, aluminumhats 220€ / pair, parkingbrakecalipers 250€ / pair



December 14th 2016, 07:46
Very cool that you make such nice pictures of the different set/ups!
The alu hat version is of course the way to go if you can spring for it.

December 14th 2016, 13:30
Aluversion would be my first choice if it not would need separate parking brake caliper :)

December 14th 2016, 14:52
I was looking this parking brake caliper:


December 14th 2016, 16:55
Just 540 gramm! Awesome. It uses cable operation though.
But a separate hydaulic system would not bother me. Think I even prefer it as would not weigh more.

December 14th 2016, 17:23
Unfortunately hydraulic parking brake is not legal in Finland

June 6th 2017, 03:33
At winter / spring i got fitted the twopiece rollcage properly, now it is more symmetrical and coworker visited at garage for welding.






Also bought nice drysump tank, which holds about 6-7 litres of oil and at the bottom 2 litres below scawenge line.



June 6th 2017, 03:48
Just recently i got my Wasp stage 2 muffler, and it fits really well with 944 turbo rear arms and 4-piston calipers. Looks like i have a lot of room.

Wasp header also did fit with ease :)







Transaxle needed more room, so cutting was needed to body and patch was made.. Still, far away from paint.



June 6th 2017, 07:20
it's coming together, and that motor (drooling) :)

December 17th 2017, 01:04
Hey Alex, any updates to your build?

March 8th 2018, 06:10
While designing Type 1 and Type 4(!) Billet heads among my project, i am having hard time to decide what rear rotors i should buy.

Fronts are heavy 330x28 48 vane AP rotors, I am looking lighter 315x25,4 24 vane AP rotors to rear, would these be enough?



Rears perhaps?


March 8th 2018, 06:37
After closer examining and measuring, noticed that mendeola bulkhead frontplate was welded about 3mm further than at other end by former painter. Also some rought patches at original bulkhead..


http://www.volkkaripalsta.com/keskustelu/uploads/monthly_2018_03/20180225_210554.thumb.jpg.db559c548d51ab5dbb31c48b 3dbd5ad3.jpg

http://www.volkkaripalsta.com/keskustelu/uploads/monthly_2018_03/20180225_210527.thumb.jpg.334c3338889f7e085c1d6e90 e75c514f.jpg