View Full Version : Kerscher 944 brake conversion parts
Superman
April 8th 2003, 08:45
Kerscher parts needed for the 944 brake conversion.
BZ 52015 [47EURO = US$51] 17mm balljoint for 1302/1303 Superbug
BZ 52050 [15EURO = US$16] 944 cable ends with connectors
BZ 52051 [18EURO = US$19] Aluminum spacer for cables
Send an email to info@kerscher-tuning.de with the part number of the items you want and your location asking for shipping costs; be prepared, see notes below.
NOTES:
You can send your request in English and there will be a reply in English.
When ordering remember that the part numbers above are each so order two.
You must have a credit card and available fax for this order.
The exchange rate can vary so the price may slightly change.
LOAF
April 8th 2003, 12:05
Superman,
I understand that I need to purschase to ball joints.. Do I need to do the same for the other items or when I buy those part numbers I am getting everything I need.
Alex
Just got some design 90's to restart the project.. Except now it has snowed 6 inches around my way.. :mad: Thanks for the heads up on the part numbers, you just saved me some work..
:)
Superman
April 8th 2003, 12:31
What's listed above is the ball joints for Supers and the other parts are what's needed to adapt the Beetle cables to the 944 rear emergency brakes. Look at the attached picture, what you see is what you get.
Alex
April 8th 2003, 13:52
You can see pics as well in the brake gallery on the main page.
I have a set of the aluminum spacers for sale....I can not use them for the al trailing arm.
Please note that the prices James posted are per part and NOT for the pair.
Alex
Superman
April 9th 2003, 01:44
Yes all part numbers and prices are each so when ordering get 2 of each for both sides.
LOAF
April 9th 2003, 18:20
did I read correct that the above E brake kits will not work with Alum. Trailing arms.. Anyone know about the MBT kit?.. Will start new thread if this violates policy..
Alex
Superman
April 9th 2003, 20:43
Humm, I kept the steel arms so I can offer no advice for the aluminum fitment. Perhpas Alex can help there. Feel free to include MBT parts in this post, I could always just change the subject.
Superman
April 9th 2003, 20:50
Originally posted by Superman
BZ 82051 [18EURO = US$19] Aluminum spacer for cables
Please note my typographical error, the "8" should actually be a "5" in this part number. I have edited the original post above but wanted to bring this to the attention of those that may have recorded these numbers previously.
Alex
April 9th 2003, 21:05
The al spacers will not work with the al trailing arms. How do I know.....well I got them and they do not fit. You have to get the steel spacer that Kerscher sells with their rear disk brake to shorten the cable. They are placed on top of the tube for the e-brake cable that sticks out the frame horn.
You can use the cable ends.....the are the same for all 924/944 and 951 conversion I believe. The is a pic in the gallery that show a modified plate that replaces the Porsche plate to adapt original beetle e-brake cables. I got them from Kummetat thru Oliver Knuf.
To make a long story short.......after trying to put my e-brake together I recommend to use the original Porsche plate and to get the Kerscher cable ends since they actually attach to the plate with a pin and will not come loose when trying to put the cable in the tube to the e-brake handle. You can then shorten the original Beetle cable to the length you need and crimp on the Porsche cable ends. You will not need the spacer then. I think that it is 40$ well spent. Ask Shad from LN Engineering about this....I gave him my cable ends I got from Kerscher because I have the MBT or Kummetat kit. There is no guess work with the Kerscher cable ends. You just need to measure how much you need to cut off the original beetle cable and crimp the cable end on to it and you are done.
Sandeep and I wasted about 2 hours taking the e-brake apart to put the original cable end back onto the plate when we tried to feed the cable thru the tube to the handle. It is a bigger pain in the *** with the al trailing arms.
Alex
LOAF
April 9th 2003, 22:51
From one Alex to another.. Thanks for the heads up..
r/s
Alex:)
eldavid
March 10th 2004, 15:21
Kerscher parts needed for the 944 brake conversion.
BZ 52015 [47EURO = US$51] 17mm balljoint for 1302/1303 Superbug
BZ 52050 [15EURO = US$16] 944 cable ends with connectors
BZ 52051 [18EURO = US$19] Aluminum spacer for cables
Two questions:
1) Do you just twist the cable ends onto the Beetle cable?
2) What are the aluminum spacers for, and where do you install them?
-emerson
Superman
March 11th 2004, 00:41
The cable ends are crimp-on and are actual Porsche parts for a 944 that could be had from the dealer. The aluminum spacers are an adapter to fit the Beetle's cable sleeve to the 944's backing plate, they also take up the slack in the cable.
eldavid
May 6th 2004, 22:58
The aluminum spacers are an adapter to fit the Beetle's cable sleeve to the 944's backing plate, they also take up the slack in the cable.
I don't quite understand how the Kerscher spacers are to be installed. Are they supposed to replace the stock 944 "spacers" or attach to them somehow? It seems to me that I have to remove the 944 "spacer" and pop in the Kerscher spacer. If I have to pop in the Kerscher spacer, how do I ensure that it stays on? See pics for reference.
-emerson
Superman
May 7th 2004, 19:44
That's right, you pry out the 944 spacer and press in the Kerscher spacer. It's a close tolerance fit, it'll stay in there.
super vw
May 8th 2004, 15:25
Hmm. yes this is right. i did things a little differently, and didnt cost me anything really.
I used some scrap 1/8 flat stock and cut out a new accuating arm (the thing the cable attaches) that accepts the beetles cable, and for the spacer/cable housing holder i just modifiyed my original steel 944 unit. i shortened the spacer about 17mm (but i should have only took 10-12mm as now cable adjusters maxed out almost... old cable BTW) and then took a ballpeen hammer and make a "cup" so the beetle cable housing would go in, then pounded the cup to tightly fit around the cable (to take slack out and to seal it). All in all i only spent money on the 1/8 stock that i had from another project and my time. I like to do as much as i can by myself and not spend money on stuff i dont need to. the system works fine it seams (cars not running so i have no road tests, but the wheels dont turn when i take a cheater bar to the brakes)
If i had the tools i would have made the spacer myself on a lathe, but i didnt and dont need to now, the aluminum Kerscher spacer is nicer for sure. and for many its easier.
Just thought i would share.
Later,
Jonathan
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