944 Brakes @ All 4 Corners of a Standard Type 1

[AirCooledVW]

Hello GL,

I have been reading over this site for a few days now. I can find a lot of info for Super's (1302 & 1303) about the 944 Brake upgrade's, but none on the Standard Type 1's. I am mostly interested in the '69-'7x Standard's with IRS rear and ball joint front.

I am currently running stock drums and suspension at all 4 corners. I want to do the "all bolt-on" installation if at all possible.

With that said, the rear is going to be swapped with an 83-85 944NA Spring Plate, trailing arm, swaybar, and brake hubs and 1-pot calipers. Just bolt and go, is this correct?
Or to get the 4-pot calipers, use the '86-'91 (minus '87 for one off parts) 944T with the same year suspension? This would require machining to fit, no?

For the front suspension, I am thinking of going with the Red9Design EzRider.
So for brakes, will the '83-'85 944NA and '86-'91 944T just bolt on since this is not a super and doesn't require the bump-steer kit and 17mm ball joint?

And one more question. The stock master cylinder should suffice, no? Or would a Kerscher or 944 unit be a better choice?

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

[Alex]

Hi and welcome to the site.

You can check the tech articles on the main site for some help for Porsche 944 and 951 brakes and also try using the search on this forum on the same topic.
My tech article has drawings with measurements for machining the Porsche hub to use it with the standard beetle spindle.
The rear is a near bolt on. If you use the 944 trailing arms you need to take out the big bushing and replace it with a VW bushing. Some modifactions need to be done to the e-brake cable to make it work but that is it. All the info is already posted.

Alex

[zen]

hi ryan, welcome.

i have a '73 and will be doing the same conversion for the most part. still deciding myself on NA or T. i will be working with a new german look tuner in the SE, Blitzcraft, on the conversion. hopefully within the next month or two. i am waiting on my car to come back from paint. you can be sure i will be posting updates on gl.com.

[chigger]

The rear is pretty straight foward, the front is not and it would probably be cheaper to buy a kit as you know everything will work together and you can also get on the road faster. The price may seem pretty high, but you probably can't build it as cheap unless you have a pretty good machine shop. The early parts are big and heavy although they are quite a bit lighter than the later parts. The eary parts are also cheaper than the later parts. One new rotor for an early car is $50 for a later or turbo $200 to $250. To prevent problems with brake bias stay with the front and rear system from the same car. You could end up with a car with some really evil braking.
If you stay with the single pots go with the MC from the 944 as you will need more fluid to energize the pads.
On a different side, the brakes on a 70's McLaren CanAm car had 11.5 inch rotors with 4 pot calipers. With a 427 inch aluminum block engine running 600HP it would do 200 MPH. Automotive design has changed alot, but I think these brakes should be enough for underpowered 200 HP VW. Wink Wink
Hope some of this helps.