Questions about Bill K.s ride

[Bill K.]

Click here (http://www.germanlook.com/Html/MembersRides/ViewVehicle.php?RideID=150) for more information on this ride.

[Bill K.]

Hey everybody,

I've been using this site for about a year now and have learned alot from you all. I've always wanted a Porsche. But building a GL inspired bug has proven to be more rewarding.

I'm restoring my first car, a 70 bug, that I've owned for 20 years and driven daily for 15 years. It's something I've always wanted to do. Over the years I just got by with fixing whatever was totally broken. I stopped driving it daily when my twins were born and opted for a safer highway capable rig. Now the bug will be a weekender and evening cruiser. No doubt I'll take the long way to work here and there too.

Currently, the chassis, suspension, brakes, drive train, and body are done. The body is at the paint shop now. My gauges are being restored and electrical systems are on order. In a month I should be into final assembly.

Thanks again for all the great ideas and information. Your questions and comments are welcome.

[boygenius]

Nice looking car... :agree:

How do you like your RLR bolt in cage...

[Bill K.]

The RLR roll bar (http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=DRC0003&cartid=0604200448705679) is really nice. I don't plan on racing much, it's for my kids (SUV protection).

I went full-on with the chomoly construction, dual door bars, and traction bar. It installed easily without seats in the car. The traction bar bolts onto the curved sides of the rear transmission bracket and to the bottom of the luggage compartment where the rear bars mount (sandwiching the skin). Once installed, the seats drop right in. With stock seat, there is about 1" clearance to the door bar and tilt is a little constricted due to the high sides of the 70 seats. Procar Rally seats have a little more side room, can move all the way back, and tilt further back before hitting the verticle part of the main bar. The door bar takes a little getting used to when getting in and out, but not a big deal. I'm having it powdercoated for a durable finish. I don't have a rear seat. If you did, be sure to warm up and stretch out good before attempting the vault and twister.

Thanks for the :agree:

[boygenius]

Cool thanks for the information... I too want a roll cage/bar more for protection against idiot drivers than for racing... For some reason people want to park their cars in my engine compartment... :rolleyes: :laugh:

[Bill K.]

Rear enders in pre72 bugs can rip the seat off the rails and send you head first into the rear window as the car gets shot forward. Procar seat rails bolt to the original pan rails and are way more robust than the original. The tilt mechanism is also beefier. Reinforcing the rails-to-pan welds is also a good idea.

Another rear end safety mod is a third tail light (http://www.thirdbrakelight.com/coupe.htm) and rapid flashing brake light module (http://www.webelectricproducts.com). The blink really caught my attention on a New Beetle I saw with this flasher module.

Nothing beats luck with good defensive driving.

[boygenius]

Well my car will be red so I can only hope that people will see me. I thought about the third brake light option. I was also thinking about some LED bulbs for my tailights. Only problem is I don't know if the late 73+ lights have the bulb facing backwards or down like my 69 tailights.

[Bill K.]

Good call on the LED brake lights. I'm considering Custom Dynamics (http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm) 1157 1.85" clusters for my smoked elephant feet (http://www.hoffmann-speedster.de/images/produkte/020/020_4496-X.jpg). Spendy though at $50 each. Intensity, wide angle viewing, and high intensity differential between tail and brake modes are the factors to check for when selecting a LED tail/brake light. Good motorcycle info here (http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/led/led.htm).

LED's would work in all bug rear light assemblies. They all (http://www.vwheritage.com/publicRouter.cfm/loadPage/122?cftoken=2965309&cfid=1083203) point straight back. It's the reverse light that points down in the 68-72's.

[Timmy_Barns]

Well my car will be red so I can only hope that people will see me. I thought about the third brake light option. I was also thinking about some LED bulbs for my tailights. Only problem is I don't know if the late 73+ lights have the bulb facing backwards or down like my 69 tailights.


Hey Boygenius, Right now my super is bright orange, and people still dont see it, I almsot had a new Dodge Ram ram me (Sorry for that pun) and he didnt even slow down, the jerk.... had that happen a couple of times.

[boygenius]

LED's would work in all bug rear light assemblies. They all (http://www.vwheritage.com/publicRouter.cfm/loadPage/122?cftoken=2965309&cfid=1083203) point straight back. It's the reverse light that points down in the 68-72's.


It has been too long since I last worked on my bug when it had wires in it. :( :rolleyes:

[Bill K.]

Today paint is done! Chassis is wired and sound deadened. Trany is hooked up. Engine can't wait to run. Windows are powdered and tinted. Steering wheel and gauges are in the mail. It's time to put it all together and go.

Enjoyin' the ride,
Bill

[zen]

man you work quick. wish my paint would have gone that quick. then again, very little went/is going right with timing on this car.

congrats! make sure we see some pics of the process.

[Bill K.]

Here's some of the paint:

Chassis ready for final assembly (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/Finished%20chassis.JPG)

Painted body off and in pieces (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/Deck%20painted.JPG)

Porsche Lapis Metallic Blue (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/Body%20mounted.JPG)

Smoothed deck lid and rear apron (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/Filled%20deck.JPG)

Filled hood grill (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/Filled%20grill.JPG)

Wiring next -- Watson Streetworks (http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/vw.html) wiring kit plus GM Weatherpack (http://www.quickcar.net/ign_sys/terminals.html) quick connects for engine and lights.

Zen. Ya it's been a fun year and a half. North Highlands Paint & Body (http://www.highlandspaint.qpg.com/) took about 7 weeks and I was out of town for about 3 weeks, so that worked out nice. I love making milestones happen. It's great to do things I've never done before and see it all work out. Having this car 20 years has taught me a lot. I've always wanted to do this and I'm thankful for the support from my family and financial resources that were needed to do it.

Keep on keepin' on,
Bill

[Kafer_Mike]

Hey Bill, any pictures with the wide CCC fenders bolted up. I'm hoping to run the same tire/wheel combo on my '69 . Our front end set-ups are identical. I'm questioning whether I can go with stock front fenders (and a 2" narrow beam) up front and 1 1/2" wider in the rear.

[Bill K.]

No pictures yet. But I think I'm going to get a 1" spacer for the front. I'll decide after it's all together and settled. I decided to go with wider fenders so the track would be widened for better handling. Plus I like the wide look. I'll post pictures after I mount the fenders in a few weeks (no spacers yet).

[Bill K.]

Ready for installation of RAT 2270C. Here's picts of the engine compartment and external oil cooler.

Engine bay wired and plumbed (http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/engine_1_resize.JPG)

Wire harness with Weatherpack fittings and fuel line (http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/engine_6_resize.jpg)

Setrab fan pack cooler tucked next to RLR traction bar (http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/engine_9_resize.JPG)

Next up is engine install, BAS exhaust mounting, oil line assembly/priming, and finally ENGINE FIRE-UP.

I had a hell of a time with the steering column assembly. After figuring out how it went back together, I realized my steering bearing was shot. So I had to find a used one. Now the wheel is slop free.

Wiring has been a challenge. The Watsons kit gives a good foundation, but the diagrams that come with the kit don't account for VW specific switches and relay's, so merging the two has taken focus. Still quite a bit more to do, but ignition works.

I hope to have it road ready in a few weeks.

Fired up,
Bill

[zen]

Lookin good. I have been debating the last couple of days about the Setrab. There is just no room for this 96 plate since installing the cup brace. Jake has been telling me to go with the biggest I can though. Did you talk with him about the single pack Setrab? Did he feel it would be enough? Oh, and did it come with the fan switch already installed?

I mocked one up and there is just enough room behind the left heating tube and above the trailing arm. expensive little boogers though.

[Supa Ninja]

Hey Bill let me know if you need any help with the finally assembly.

Nick

[Bill K.]

Jake said that a 72 plate Mesa cooler without a fan would be enough for my application. I tried one, but was not happy with the mounting options. For the best air flow, it would have gone under the sway bar/torsion tube but that was too close to the ground for me. Tucking it above the trailing arm at an angle mounted off the sloped section of the package tray would have worked, but I wasn't sure there would be enough air flow.

Jake said the single Setrab is more than enough for my application. I decided to go for it since oil cooling is such a critical function. I like having the fan, so it'll cool when idling after running hard. It's very well made and really small. The fan cranks. I bought it, the switch (seperate), and the rubber mounts at aircooled.net. I mounted it skewed with the inlet at the lowest point and the outlet at the highest point to ensure complete priming. I used 2 sets of rubber mounts (2 on each corner) because with only 1 mount, it seemed a little wobbly. The brackets are a mild steel, so they flex too.

I don't think the dual fan pack would have fit for me with the RLR traction bar in there. Neither the single or dual would fit over the tranny.

Keep It Kool,
Bill

[Bill K.]

Nick, got the engine in last nite and could use some help horking the exhaust into place tonite. I PM'd you.

[zen]

sweet. thanks for the info. i confirmed with Jake just now. he said it should be fine. so i am ordering now with the switch.

keep us updated on your progress...lotsa pics...lotsa tech articles. :D

[Bill K.]

Cranked up my new RAT2270C today after weeks of full-on assembly after the paint got done. Very gratifying to rev it up, feel the heat, and breath the exhaust. Can't wait to feel the G's. Still have a bit more to do before I drive it.

http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/fire_up_1a.JPG

http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/fire_up_3a.JPG

http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/fire_up_4a.JPG

Huge thanks go out to Jake Raby and crew for an awesome powerplant. :bowdown:

[boygenius]

Your car looks better every time I see it. Great job Bill... :agree:

[zen]

you work a hell of a lot quicker than me. so did you follow instructions better than i did? i just discovered (now that the engine is already in) that i was supposed to do some fitting of the front tin BEFORE the engine went in. augh.

looks like i have to decide where i am going with the filter location as well also. i have to find a home for it somewhere for the same reason (BAS exhaust).

[Bill K.]

I'm really tired -- 8p to 1a every nite for weeks since the paint was done... Running on sisu (http://www.sisugrp.com/sisuis.htm). The launch down the street this morning helps a lot.

DTM tin -- tricky with or without instructions. I pre-fit before installing, then tweeked some more after installing. I did this after replacing my rear clip and before paint to make sure the engine would fit. I had to clearance/bend the lower lip of the apron for the header to clear. The car had been rear ended, so the body was tweeked in the left rear. The body shop pulled it back into alignment so the deck lid would close right. Now header clearance is great.

Anyway, there is a lot of work to do to the side tin to fit around the intake manifolds. I used a hole saw to rough cut then a grinder to finish fit. Mine ended up a lot narrower at the apex than the kit starts with. Jake says the kits that way for compatibility with other intakes. The engine seal gives a lot of room for slop and Jake said some gaps are fine. I measured my engine bay width, cut a cardboard template and used that to gauge how much to remove from the side tin. When I have the engine out next time, I'm definately going to open up a couple holes and use fender washers to cover up the misfits. The double over lap ones in the rear corners were the toughest for me. The shroud tabs also needed trimming to fit the breather hoses at the heads, so take that into account when installing the nut inserts. Then I had to clearance the corners of the intake manifold flange next to the breather hoses to install the carbs.

You can probably trim the side tin with the engine in. Hopefully you have the rear tin attached to the engine... pull the engine if you don't :bawling:. For me, getting the engine in/out was easy compared to fitting the tin.

Filter adapter -- mounting to the wheel well was simple enough. I had brake line clearance issues to the left muffler when I lowered the car to the ground, but I re-routed the line. I have stock trailing arms with CB disks, so the Porsche setup probably won't have a problem. Just be aware of wheel travel when mounting the filter adapter, etc. I'm going to add 2 +/- inch spacers to fill the +3 fenders, so I'll have more muffler clearance but it's fine as is. On STF, I'm getting suggestions to add a filter rock shield. I'm thinking about a "fender inside the fender" to guard the filter bottom and side while still giving access to change the filter without removing the shield.

BAS -- Mounting the trany brackets is just as much fun as the engine tin. Starter bracket took bending to clear the traction bar and eyes on your fingers to fit the link fastener. Left side bracket involved shortening the mounting stud, dimpling the frame horn, backing the trany side plate studs out, washer shims, clamp welding. At this point I was in another world, so I just took it one challenge at a time always with the "do it right" montra keeping me from flipping out. I used exhaust clamps to hold the three lateral seams together and will monitor for backfires before I commit to welding.

Take it one step at a time, there are no short cuts... The racing starts when the car is done AND your happy with it.
Bill

[zen]

augh. :bawling: sure you don't want to come over and take care of that for me? ;) i am just so ready to drive this thing. nothing new, but time is running short on me making a show with the car. would rather get it right though and refuse to take too much quality time away from the kids over it. looks like i am a bachelor all weekend so maybe i can make up some ground.

your car is really looking good and coming along nicely. you really belong in the VKG. :D

[davygrvy]

BAS -- Mounting the trany brackets is just as much fun as the engine tin. Starter bracket took bending to clear the traction bar and eyes on your fingers to fit the link fastener. Left side bracket involved shortening the mounting stud, dimpling the frame horn, backing the trany side plate studs out, washer shims, clamp welding. At this point I was in another world, so I just took it one challenge at a time always with the "do it right" montra keeping me from flipping out. I used exhaust clamps to hold the three lateral seams together and will monitor for backfires before I commit to welding.


I so understand.. I ploughed through my BAS (http://www.pobox.com/~davygrvy/vw/73SB/newmotor2.tml) install in a day, for which I should have slowed down, but was pressured by a deadline.

Deadlines suck. Keep that montra going! :agree:

[Bill K.]

Mounted fenders, doors, and bumpers. Fenders and bumpers are rough mounted for now since I'm sending it back for paint touch-up next week. Rear stance is a little off after switching to 944 torsion bars, but not bad for first try. I'll dial-in the spacers I need this weekend after ripping it around a bit to settle the suspension.

http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/wings_1_resize.jpg

More pictures:
Rear end (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/wings_2_resize.jpg)
Front side (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/wings_3_resize.jpg)
Front end (http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/wings_4.JPG)

[zen]

glad you went monotone. looking really good. got my setrab today. so i will be fitting tomorrow. and pulling my engine again. did i say...augh. :bawling: :laugh:

[Bill K.]

It took me a few trips to get the fittings right for the Setrab install. Here's what finally worked for me:

Oil pump outlet -- changed from Jakes 90 to a 3/8 NPT street 45 with a straight (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-800108&N=120 302456) -8 Swivel Seal Earls AN hose end fitting. The 45 helps clear the return line so you can tighten the pump outlet line. Used Permatex 80631 "thread sealant w/ teflon" on all NPT thread per Jakes recommendation -- good seal, but not permanent like loctite 418.

Oil filter adapter -- the "left/left" adapter, fly cut seal surface to get a flat/square seal surface (see AC.net). Mounted in fender well at same height or higher than cooler for good drainage during oil change.

Oil filter inlet -- 90 3/8 NPT (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-982208&N=120 300499) to straight (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-800108&N=120 302456) hose end fitting. Spin the 90 onto the filter adapter first then do the filter outlet port.

Oil filter outlet -- straight (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-981608&N=120 300499) 3/8 NPT to male AN with a 90 hose end (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-809108&N=120 302456)

Oil cooler inlet/outlet -- straight (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-981608&N=120 300499) 3/8 NPT to male AN with a 45 hose end (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-804608&N=120 302456). Originally, I went with straight hose ends to/from the cooler but did not like the strain that bending the tube put on the fittings, so I went with the 45's.

Case return -- straight (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-981608&N=120 300499) 3/8 NPT to male AN with a straight (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR-800108&N=120 302456) hose end fitting.

Hose -- Auto-Flex (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=EAR-310008), 10' -- had about 30" extra. Protected the hose with 7/8 ID fire braid over the header.

Hope it goes well for you Zen. It'll be ALOT easier with the engine out. Easy access results in better quality.

[Racelook]

VERRY VERRY nice!!!!

WHat a great car :D

[randyj]

Do you have some pictures of your roll bar set up?

Randy

[Bill K.]

No roll bar pictures yet. See aircooled.net for pictures (http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=DRC0003&cartid=). Just have the rear bars installed because they are mounted to the traction bar. Car is back at the paint shop for touch up today, then I'll install the headliner/windows before installing the roll bar. I'll post some shots then.

The drive to the paint shop was a blast. I love the power and handling. Looking forward to doing some mountain roads.

I had an oil leak at the pipe threads of the filter adapter (made in Taiwan). I had tightened them down like normal pipe threads, but still had a leak. Finally, I torqued the sphit out of them and used Loctite 518. Now it's dry.

Mirrors turned out well. More pictures here. (http://www.vwbughead.com/Mirrors/)

http://www.vwbughead.com/Mirrors/mirror_7.JPG

[zen]

nice headlight choice. :agree: :D ;)

[Bill K.]

Thanks Zen. Your work inspired me in many ways.

Have you been able to fit lenses under the grills. I saw it done in a recent VWTrends, but haven't figured out the lens to get.

[zen]

yea. i am running some H4 cheapies that i got off ebay. work nice...in my garage at least. here's a pic. not the greatest detail, but you will get the idea. they fit right in to the standard headlight bucket.

http://www.volksport.net/images/projpics/zen30.jpg

[Bill K.]

Nice.

Got the H4's and standard buckets. What I'm looking for is the glass lens that goes where the grill goes. I've seen both lens and grills installed. The lens would have to be almost flat for the grill to fit over. If you have it, see VWTrends Aug, 2004 pg 33. It's a fluted lens. I know there are different styles, but what's it called?

[zen]

i haven't ever seen these grilles with glass behind them. i will ask my dad. he is a speedster guy. i actually would have preferred the chicken wire lens covers, but i like these almost as well. that actually may be what you are thinking of. i think one of the major parts houses used to have a close up of one on the cover of their catalog. maybe Tweeks??

[Bill K.]

I like the wire type too, but that's not what was in Trends. It's the same Mid Amer. Motorworks (http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=2.4577) grill with a fluted glass lens behind it.

[zen]

bill,

a couple of questions for you:


what of the tin did you have installed while putting the engine in? just the front tins?
did your nut tabs have #30 holes already in them? the instructions lead me to believe that they should already be there and mine do not have any. seems like that could be pretty tough to drill through while clamped to the shroud tab. jake's on vacation or i would ask him. :D
what the heck is a #30 anyway?
what are you using for the throttle cable going through the shroud?
how low does your left muffler hang down? looks to be below the sump, but is it lower than the pan? i'm debating about just bypassing the left muffler and inserting a straight pipe there. not sure though. main reason being to leave more room for the filter, t-stat and lines.

[boygenius]

Yours didn't come with a guide tube???

I have a stage 3 and mine is already in the shroud.

[Bill K.]

1. front tins only
2. my nutserts had holes drilled. i'd drill em before installing. #30 = .1285". mark where the nutsert nut should go and drill it for a slip fit with the nut. then put the nutsert in the hole upside down to mark the rivet hole locations as pre-drilled.
4. Used a "universal" cable. Cut to length. Cut accel. tube about 1.5".
5. both mufflers are below the sump -- about 1". the cross tubes are at about the same level. the header is tucked up flush to the sump. my left might droop a little without the left muffler bracket to the tailpipe. theres plenty of room for filter adapter and lines with the left muffler on.
http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/setrab_3s.jpg
http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/setrab_6s.jpg
http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/exhaust_26_resize.JPG

[Supa Ninja]

I need to get out there and give you a hand, expect a call Wed. Lookin tough Bill.

Nick

[zen]

thanks for the extra info. i may just JB weld the netserts in place. no real pressure on them. i didn't get a guide tube, but it just dawned on me that i have any extra T1 one so i will use it. i put in a stock acc cable, so hopefully that is the right length.

on the filter, are you saying there is room to mount it on the bumper bracket? i thought you said you had to relocate it because of that??? pics make it look like a tight fit. my fittings come out of the top too.

[Bill K.]

Well I'm back online after morning the loss of my motor. It seized about a month ago while doing a full throttle, clutch drop burnout. I tore down the engine and sent the short block to Jake for failure analysis and repair. Jake found that the T4 flywheel snout broke and welded to the crank. This caused the front main bearing to seize on the crank. So, a new crank, bearings and flywheel and it's all good. Jake is going to set me up with one of his new lightened billet aluminum flywheels. I'm going to get a rev. limiter to protect the engine from my foot.

On the bright side, I got the experience of tearing down a RAT T4 motor. Ceramic lifters were perfect.

I've made some progress on the car -- wheel spacers, gauge wiring, bumper turn signals, sound dampening, and wing window assy. After getting the engine back together the plan is to get the headliner installed by a shop and finish up final assembly.

Keepin' on,
Bill

[NO_H2O]

Good to hear you are back up and going on the car. When you get the engine back from Jake go for the complete installation and get some break-in miles on her for a while before you throw down on it. Then go out and find one of the Civic's,,,,,,, that looks like the guy drove thru Pep Boys with a big magnet,,,,,,,, and pummel his @$$. That should be great therapy. :agree:

[Supa Ninja]

Bill,
With my move to SoCal, new job and good facilities at my disposal, I will hopefully have my Supa parked beside your Bug at the next BOR. I can email you directions to the most savage road out here, twisties for 30+ miles, almost no traffic and no cops. I'm sorry to hear about your engine, but it sounds like everything is going to be alright. Don't waste you're time on civic's, hunt down Z06's, 996's or Camaro SS's. Don't be a stranger brother.

Nick

[zen]

glad it wasn't any worse. did you have a stock flywheel in it? i am running a lightened FAT, so just wanted to be sure. i'll be out there in a couple of weeks if you have the time to hook up. i may rent a car while out there so i may have wheels to come to you if needed.

[Bill K.]

Thanks for the support. Looking forward to enjoying the car on Supa's favorite routes in the foothills. I won't street race -- too risky for an accident or ticket. I'm into this for recreation not competition.

Nick, sounds like a good opportunity. Good luck in SoCal. Pleases email your list of "top 5 radical NoCal drives". Two GL's at the next BOR? Right on!

Ya Zen, the flywheel was stock T4 lightened by Jake. Is your "FAT" flywheel the same thing as Jake's new "billet flywheel"? This seems to be a freak failure caused by a freak driver... I'll be Mr Mom that weekend. I'll PM you my number so we can meet up. Who knows, Jake may come through quickly and you can help assemble and install.

Sisu (http://www.sisugrp.com/sisuis.htm),
Bill

[zen]

don't know if the flywheels are one in the same or not.

[vujade]

very nice car Bill :D

Keep up the good work :agree:

[Supa Ninja]

Hey Bill here is a link to a thread about Mosquito Ridge Rd. There is a map of it, a 3D visual, and satilite pic. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38371&page=1&pp=15

Nick

Directions are simple
80E to Auburn
Foresthill Exit-Rt
Straight to Foresthill
Rt onto Mosquito Ridge Rd

Nick

[Bill K.]

Awesome!! 600 turns in 36 miles with views the whole way... I've heard the Icehouse road is good too. Mountain biking off Foresthill is sweet too. Back to the garage, so I can get to it ASAP. Thanks Nick.

[Supa Ninja]

Ya, Mosquito Ridge is more low speed(below 100mph)lots of corners, I haven't ridin on Icehouse, but I have heard lots of good things about it as well, its more high speed(100+).
For some extra twisties when going to MRR take 80E, then get off in Auburn at Elm Ave, make a LT onto Elm, Lt at next light onto 49, follow that down to the river, at the bridge go straight, thats Old Foresthill Rd, at stop sign make a RT onto Foresthill RD. Thats a lot of twisties, and the view is awesome too. Oh by the way, the Foresthill Bridge aside from being the third highest bridge in the US is also where Vin Diesel jump the Corvette off in XXX.

Nick

[Bill K.]

Here's my web site (http://www.vwbughead.com) on the project. I'll post here when I make updates.

[Bill K.]

Jake got me the short block back this week and it's running again. I assembled the top end, shroud, etc. This time I have a forged flywheel with Kennedy stage 1 pressure plate and gold disk. It's lightened to 12 lbs.

Before I had a lightened stock cast bus flywheel. That's the puppy that broke doing a high rev launch. The rear of the flywheel o-ring groove welded to the crank, the crank was bent, and the case main bore was toasted. Jake did me right with the repair and did it quickly. He even dialed in the timing to get the engine to fireup over the phone at 3 am on the top of a 20 ft ladder. :eek:

The reinstall went well as I was able to fix a few things that weren't quite right the first time. Also, I added a hyfire VI-AL and set the rev limit to 6250 as the engine stops putting out power at about 6300 rpm. I got a little toasty adjusting the timing as the rubber boot on the coil wire slipped down and exposed the terminal a bit. When I grabbed the distributor - ZAP. It's all fun and games replacing your engine until you get hy-fired.

The gauges are installed and looking sweet. There is a problem with the LED used for the alternator idiot light. When wired throught the LED, the alternator doesn't turn on. I'm using a stock incandescent bulb for now and will try wiring them in parrallel today. Maybe the LED needs an extra resistor in line for the regulator to fire up the field. Any insight on what the the internally regulated Bosch 75 amp alternator needs to excite the field?

My SPA dual gauge for CHT is not working right either. When the ignition is on it reads right. When the engine runs, it reads erratic or nothing. I've done some preliminary trouble shooting and it seems to be related to the probes I got for KS Avionics. Bill Simpkinson at KS Avionics is a great guy and knows thermocouples very well. We'll get it figured out.

It's rolling on a set of space savers I got from eldavid while the Fuchs get restored at Weidmans Wheels in Oravile, Ca. Harvey and Sue are really nice people too. He's been doing Fuchs forever and is one of the best. His wife, Sue, paints the center caps. I drove up there with my three kids to drop off the wheels and tires thinking I would open the door to the van, roll the wheels to the front door and bolt with the kids screaming, etc. But instead, Sue invited the screaming kids inside to color, play with toys, etc until her grandkids showed up. I was free to take the shop tour with Harvey and learn about Fuchs. He's into 356's and wants to put a T4 in one. I sent him Jake Raby's way. The new wheels are going to be awesome.

The car looks crazy with the space savers and low pro tires. I'm not sure I can get it out of the driveway without scraping the header. I had to shim the front wheels as a pair of the wheels from eldavid don't bolt up tight. WTF? The bosses around the holes aren't as tall as the other pair so the lug nuts bottom out before the rim is seated on the hub.

I've got the carbon fiber bug. Looking forward to an air dam, running boards, gravel guards, roof spoiler, and headlight rings from CarbonJoe. I'm going with the dark blue kevlar/carbon fiber weave. Joe's another person who makes this hobby a lot of fun.

Anyway, that's my blog of the month. Back on full throttle,
Bill

[eldavid]

Ah, now I see the wheel issue more clearly. I have a set of these bottomless lugs: http://geocities.com/ex1zee28/PorscheLugs.htm This way you won't have to shim the front wheels. Come by and pick them up at your earliest convenience.
-emerson

[zen]

glad the morning period is over and you are back at it. i still need to get back on mine as well. started driving it and it is hard to get back to the rest that needs to be done.

keep taking those pics.

[Bill K.]

Ah, now I see the wheel issue more clearly. I have a set of these bottomless lugs: http://geocities.com/ex1zee28/PorscheLugs.htm This way you won't have to shim the front wheels. Come by and pick them up at your earliest convenience.
-emerson
No, it doesn't work with those either. Had to use 5/8" washers with the bottomless lugs. I think it will be fine for now. Thanks for agreeing to take them back when I get my Fuchs back.

[Bill K.]

Washed the car for a christening drive (again). Love the feel of the new Kennedy Stage 1 pressure plate. Softer than the T4. Below is a shot of the 15" space savers. The header is about 5" off the ground. I can't even get the low profile jack under it without rolling up on 2x6's. Good enough for now until the Fuchs come back in a month or so. I made brackets for the license plate and have the LED bolt lights installed.
http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/space_saver1.jpg

I'm liking how the front bumper is working out. The impact strip came from Kaeferland in Frankfurt. I'll hang the license plate below the strip like the rear. I'll detail what I did with the front turn signals in the future (Tech Article in progress).
http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/space_saver2.jpg

I took it for a freeway ride and this thing make me tremble with adrenaline. Looking forward to getting my wide grippy tires back so I can get it aligned and hit the hills. :D

[zen]

very cool. you think you have issues with ride height? my exhaust is 1.75" off the ground at the moment. can't get it out of the neighborhood until i get off my butt and tear it all down again and gain some height.

i'm diggin the bumper too. nice choice.

[Bill K.]

The gauges are installed and looking sweet. There is a problem with the LED used for the alternator idiot light. When wired throught the LED, the alternator doesn't turn on. I'm using a stock incandescent bulb for now and will try wiring them in parrallel today. Maybe the LED needs an extra resistor in line for the regulator to fire up the field. Any insight on what the the internally regulated Bosch 75 amp alternator needs to excite the field?
The problem was that when the D+ terminal of the alternator is wired in series with the LED to +12V ignition, not enough current was supplied to the alternator to initiate the field (LED limited current). Wiring the LED in parallel with the alternator D+ wire fixed the problem.

Now if I can only get the SPA digital CHT gauge to read stable with the engine running, I'd be wired. I've narrowed it down to the thermocouple extension wire. I'll try rerouting the extension wire down the other side of the car and shortening it as much as possible. I'm also going to use capacitors to knock down some of the noise on the line.

Sandeep has got me intrigued about data aquisition. I've done some at work using National Instruments LabView and would like to try it in the car. The combo I'm thinking about is: laptop, Pico ADC-16 (http://www.picotech.com/high-resolution.html), thermistors, hall effect speedo adapter, and some frequency to voltage converters for rpm/tach. The R&D on this car is almost done, so I'm looking for more brain candy...:idea:

[Bill K.]

I spoke too soon about the alternator idiot light LED. I had the LED wired in parallell with the alternator wire through the relay I was using to troubleshoot. The relay coil provided enough resistance for the LED to light. No biggy, I'll just try adding a 100 ohm resistor in place of the relay. So it'll be wired: +12V ignition to resistor and LED +, resistor to alternator D+ and LED-.

Moving the thermocouple extensions from the left side of the car where all the other wires are to the right side and tucking the CHT probe under the shroud as far away from the spark plug wires fixed the noise problem. :D

So, now I only a few loose wires. Nothing I haven't lived with for years. ;)

[Supa Ninja]

Nice GL Bill, I want a ride in it. Anyways, I was just on a couple of rides with biker boys while i was in town this weekend (packing), and it would appear there is snow already on the sides of the road to Icehouse, which = wet and slippery. :( Salmon Falls Road has a lot of nice tight turns and a few good straightaway's and it's a lower elevation too. I'm going to assume Mosquito Ridge Rd is as bad as Icehouse.
I got a link to very well layed out website that describes all of the good roads in NoCal and some in SoCal. www.pashnit.com it's a motorcycle website but from my experience, if it's good for bikes it's good for cars too.
Some of my favorites are 1.Mosquito Ridge, 2. Icehouse, 3 Salmon Falls, 4 Dogbar rd, 5 only if there are no cops and light traffic-Foresthill Rd, and finally 6 is Hwy 49 from Auburn to Placerville if there is no traffic on it.
There are a lot of the twisty stuff that I have never been on so have fun searching the pashnit site. I am still searching for some good twisties near where i'm moving too in SoCal, so far it looks like a hour drive to the nearest ones :mad: .

Nick

[Supa Ninja]

I know I'm double posting but I was thinking of some of the roads I learned how too drive on when I was a young ninja. If you go to Auburn and take HWY 49 to Grass Valley you'll run into a traffic light in the middle of nowhere. Right turn will take you straight to Dog Bar Rd (very fun road in either direction, just watch out for deer), left turn will take you to Wolf RD. If you stay on Wolf, it will eventually take you to McCourtney Rd which is the scenic route to Grass Valley. A side trip is too make a right onto Lilm Kiln Rd, nice tight sweepers and whoops too. That will pop you out onto Hwy 49. Then there is Hwy 49 past Neveda City towards Downeyville?, thats a fun road too. There is just a lot of good twisties this part of the neighborhood. Maybe that's why the straightline stuff doesn't appeal to me like the twisties do.

Nick

[Bill K.]

Nick, thanks for the details. That list will keep me busy next spring when it thaws. I'm getting closer to hitting the road fully equipped. Just got insurance today, so it's off to get the headliner in then roll bar, etc. If I don't see you at Bugorama next time, I'm considering a trip to the Classic so you can get your ride then.

[Supa Ninja]

:D can't wait, Bill.

[Bill K.]

Harvey Weidman is to wheels as Jake Raby is to engines or CarbonJoe is to fiber -- AWESOME.
http://www.vwbughead.com/web/wheels/wheel00.JPG
More pictures at www.vwbughead.com/web/wheels/

Weidman Wheels -- 530-534-7903 -- restored my Fuchs and mounted my tires. They turned out A+. The attention to detail is outstanding. The wheel weights are split behind the spokes when weight was called for between the spokes. He balances inside and outside weights. They are painted inside and on the backs. The anodization is even and smooth. They were mounted without a single mark. He went out of his way to get and fit the Ferrari aluminum stems.

The wheels are stripped, checked for trueness/roundness and tweeked as needed, polished, anodized, painted and baked. Center cap crests are hand painted.

Here's the specs:
* Front: 16X6 Fuchs; 205/55; +2" CCC fender; 1.5" spacer; Ghia disks
* Rear: 16X7 Fuchs; 225/50; +3" CCC fenders; 2.5" spacer; CB Performance Race disks
* Yokohama ES100
* Porsche Lapis Blue Metallic color matched to car
* Ferrari aluminum valve stems with Porsche caps

Fuch'n'Groovin,
Bill

[zen]

:eek: wow!!! :eek:

those look fantastic. really sets off the car. nice choice and nice work.

[NO_H2O]

SWEET
HE does nice work.

[Racelook]

HOLY MAMA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

Awsome!!

[Bill K.]

Wow the H4 modification turned out bright and the daylight running lights work well. I drove it at night for the first time and I'm paranoid the lights are too bright... No complaints from on coming traffic, but this is another amazing transformation for my old car. Looking forward to the carbon fiber trim rings. I've got a Tech Article about 80% complete.
http://www.vwbughead.com/electrical/911_drl.jpg
More at http://www.vwbughead.com -- see Electrical/Lights update

Also had to reinstall the Whiteline front adjustable sway bar. I had the shock mounts upside down and the beam bracket slipped causing fender lip rubbing. Here (http://www.vwbughead.com/suspension/whiteline_front.html) are instructions on how I installed the sway bar. I added caster shims also. It handles much better. I'm getting more confident with the handling and continue to push it harder. I love the direct connection this car has to the road. Stiff suspension, smooth steering, tons of power, roaring exhaust, and decent tires = G buzz.

[zen]

I love the direct connection this car has to the road. Stiff suspension, smooth steering, tons of power, roaring exhaust, and decent tires = G buzz.

ain't life grand? that is just the best feeling! looking real good!!!!

[Bill K.]

Interior Additions
- chromoly RLR bolt-in roll bar with door bars and traction bar, powdercoated black
- Scat Rally seats
- New panels with RSA handles
http://www.vwbughead.com/interior/kulhdub15.jpg

- stereo, amp, kick panels/speakers
- datalogger
http://www.vwbughead.com/interior/kulhdub19.JPG

More at www.vwbughead.com

[libila]

The car looks great Bill!

I was wondering as to where you got your tack and speedo, how you hooked them up, how you did the faces and LED backlighting. Also, did you make the mounting plate for the gauges or did you purchase it?

[Bill K.]

All about guages here http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=4657&page=1&pp=15&

I have a couple extra cnc dash plates for those interested.

[golde60]

damn, thats one awesome looking bug.

i'll bet it rips. did you plan on racing it or is it gonna be street driven?

[Bill K.]

Thanks. Do both -- race (limited for now) and street driven -- that's the beauty of GL.

[Blue Thunder]

Hi Bill, back in the US?

Just wanted to say your car is a real beauty (wish my car looked half as good), and just love those Fuchs alloy's :bowdown:
Also the tech-aspect of your car is very interesting: CHT and EGT sensors on all cilinders and the ability to log all the data is amazing!

Unfortunately I'm out of the running at the moment: one of my scat aluminum pushrods just snapped at 6000 rpm (due to a material flaw), and destroyed a lightweight lifter and the pushrodtube :mad:

Anyway, have fun with that car and send over some video-clips if you make some :D

Grtz. Robin

[Racelook]

Anyway, have fun with that car and send over some video-clips if you make some :D

Grtz. Robin
Hell yeah...

Give us some vids :D

See ya next time ;)

Wiebrand

[Bill K.]

Robin - sorry to hear that, but I like your make it and break it approach. You just needed a real reason to pull it and fix the leaks... It was a blast ripping around in your Blue Thunder and hanging out.

Adding video to the datalogger playback with gps track map would be very cool. The software plays back the graphs (temps, speed, revs, g's, etc), track map position, and video simultaneously. see http://www.race-technology.com/WebPage2/Products/Software/NewInV5.html

I'm going to get back on the car after vacation. I'll be adding extra eccentric adjusters for more camber, installing adjustable spring plates, and getting it aligned finally. Then I look forward to carving some turns (with video).

Wiebrand - see you next time -- maybe this winter :cool:

[Bill K.]

Well the adjustable spring plates are in and modified for decamber. The ride height is re-set and cross-weight adjusted (50.8% LR-RF). The car weights 1950 lb with a full tank.

The front end still has a couple issues. First, the right front tire rubs the fender lip with the 1.5" spacer on. Appearantly, Porsche are known to have a similar chassis offset where the body seems to be shifted to the left. When I fit the spacers I only measured the left side :mad:. Next time, measure both sides and spit the difference... The offset seems to be a little here and a little there when I measure fenders, beam, arms, etc. I've removed the front spacers for now.

Second, the left front cannot be adjusted into negative camber (RF is at -1.2 deg max with extra eccentric adjuster). It is maxed at 0 camber now. Next up is to check the left control arms for bends. It figures that a brand new Brazilian beam with control arms would be bent... I'll be swapping in new left control arms to see if bending is the issue.

I've gone over the suspension and brakes re-torquing and tweaking, so I'm confident it is solid now (aside from the LF camber).

It continues to be a blast to drive. I love the torquey motor, firm suspension, and tight steering/shifting. I just got a video camera mount that I'm looking forward to trying out this weekend.

Before Memorial Day, I'll be road-trippin' with Jake from Atlanta to Sac in the Plague. Memorial Day will be Bug-O-Rama Sac with the T4 conversion crew gathering. And in June, Zen and I will be road-tripping from Sac to Anaheim and back for The Classic This will be the first big trip in the car since restoration :D

http://www.vwbughead.com/body/kulhdub02.JPG

The Carbon Joe front spoiler turned out great and noticably holds the front end down at high speed. I'm thankful I got one. :agree:

[Supa Ninja]

Bill all I got to say is this :agree: !!!!

[super vw]

for sure..... Bills car looks sharp in person! i was totaly confuzed when i had seen bills car at BOR for the first time in person as the color was off from what i thought it should look like... as i had only seen in picture form. i had this weird feeling like i knew the car, but just couldent put a finger on whos it was. i finally figured it out once Bill and i started talking.... i almost forgot what bill looked like, only meeting him once before at a BOR 2 years ago.

I wish i could have seen your pass on the drag strip! i missed out on that :(
I was to busy roaming around, gather parts (mostly for our Thing).

Anyways, hope your trip goes well with Zen... should be a blast!
Are you guys going to have both cars (zens and yours?)

BTW bill, do you have any leads on where i can find a front bumper impact strip for the europa bumpers? i cant find them anywhere!!

[volkdent]

Hey Bill,

It was nice to see your car on Sunday! It didn't click till later, I was like, 'hey, I know that car' and then I went back and checked it out some more. Looked great. I thought the juxtaposition of your car next to the rat rods was funny!

How was your run anyway?

Jason

[Bill K.]

My first drag-race was like many first-time things I do -- jump in and make all the mistakes. It started by not having the borrowed helmet buckled as I approached the lane, so I fumbled with that. Then I had no clue about staging, so I got schooled while delaying the show. Then I "deep staged" without knowing that it's okay. The starter guy had to wave me down the track with a loud "GO". :sleep: After missing 2nd, I started to have fun. :D

So, yes, you did miss a good laugh...

Zen is flying out for business, so we're making the all-nighter trek in my car.

I'm cleaning the pollen out of my carbs that I picked up doing Misquito Ridge Rd and oiling the filters. The entire engine bay was coated yellow/green! EGT sensor shows #4 running rich on idle and lean on decel at cruise -- idle circuit... I shot some video, but the CruiseCam mount I have picks up all the car vibration and the video makes you car sick. Awesome road though!

Euro front bumper rubber was taken off a euro parts car in Germany. More here (http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=4588)

[zen]

Zen is flying out for business, so we're making the all-nighter trek in my car.


and REALLY looking forward to it. cleaning off the 1GB SD card this week. time for 1000+ pics and vids from the classic.

[bow]

so how does the car do in the 1/4 mile? also how do you miss 2nd? hope you had fun make me want to race 1/4 mile alls we have here is an 1/8 mile :(

[Supa Ninja]

I heart Mosquito Ridge Rd too. :D

[Phat73VW]

hey bill so your bug will be at the VW classic this coming sunday? i really want to check out those front rub strips on your front bumper. where did you get those? i been looking all over.

[Bill K.]

Ya Brian, let's meet. PM me your number and I'll call you. We'd like to meet other SCal forum members as well! Zen and I are leaving Sac around 9pm Sat nite:eek:

Euro front bumper rubber was taken off a euro parts car in Germany. More here (http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=4588) -- Good luck

[Bill K.]

Zen and i had a great roadtrip. We left my house in Sacramento Sat nite about 10:30pm. I-5 was clear the entire way down, so we made good time going 75-85 mph under full moon light. Typical gauge readings were 4000rpm, 320F CHT, 1350F EGT, 210F O/T, 50psi O/P. After driving all night and a great breakfast in Long Beach, we went to the beach for sunrise. It was cloudy so we pushed on for the show arriving early enough to wipe the bugs off while they were still soft. Air for water:D

The show was great. Cars of all kinds and level of build made it interesting. i liked all the Things with the trick suspensions.

After the show we drove to Ventura beach counting 40 hours without sleep. The dive we stayed in was Classic roadtrip quality. Zen has stories... Great beach though.

Monday was awesome driving up the Pacific Coast Hwy. The section between San Luis Obisbo and Carmel was the best. Ocean view with lots of curves the whole way. Traffic was light, so we got a few open stretches to test the handling. Even loaded, it handles great. Uphill, 3rd gear, 5000rpm, through S-curves cut into the Pacific Coast -- priceless. I'll be back!

[Bill K.]

VW + Mountains + Ocean = :D
http://www.small.images.californiacoastline.org/images/2005/small/200509131.JPG

Cool Pacific Coast photo's here:
http://www.californiacoastline.org/cgi-bin/image.cgi?image=200509131&mode=sequential&flags=0&year=2005
Click the center image for zoom

[zen]

a great trip indeed. i thoroughly enjoyed the weekend. i was reviewing the videos and pics. the videos make it appear that we are going much slower than we were and felt like. i have posted one in the multimedia gallery just to demonstrate the sound of a TIV through a BAS. i will post more soon. i need to reduce the size of them first.

thanks for the hospitality Bill. you have one kicka$$ bug. i want to see more GLs like it.