Kickbutt Street/Compeditive Track/Canyon Road Dream Car! [Archive]

LOAF

July 1st 2004, 14:09

I have had great experience with my WRX, with some mods.

Mods such as Tires,track pads, better strut and spring combo, and swaybars go far.. with a little less restrictive exhaust i.e. uppipe, downpipe and turbo back with some Engine Management it really wakes up the car..

Car is streetable, not to loud, and a whole lot of fun.. so much, my wife enjoys driving it :(

At the track it is quite good.. Can tackle and pass most cars.. your limiting factor will be the driver.. in good hands it plays well with most..

an 02-03 can be found for 16G's give or take.. about 3-5 grand for upgrades.. and your having fun.. again it all depends on what company and parts you pick..

if you have money and do not what to modify to much then the STI may be for you.. less streetable, but comes as a great package.. other in this price range also include the EVO :(

That would be my recommendation..

ALex

Plus it is a flat four.. can't go wrong with that..

vujade

July 1st 2004, 14:16

I started dreaming about My dream car even before I knew what a GL was.
This was about 12 years ago. The basis would be a 69 to 74 Karmann Ghia built around a race style chassis with Porsche suspension, wheels, brakes, 5 speed transmission and a bid T4 motor or possibly even a 6 cylinder engine.

Exteriorwise, it would have Porsche 911 headlights, shaved turn signals (mounted in bumper) body colored fresh air vents, shaved chrome molding, body color bumpers, tinted windows, and an electric rear wing from a Porsche 964 mounted in the deck lid.

Interiorwise, it would have a full leather recarro seats w/ matching rear seat, Porsche style carpeting, full set of Porsche guages, hidden 10 speaker sound system with cd, DVD, & a playstation too.

One of the reasons I sold my 71 Super was because I always wanted to do this to a Ghia. I may not go with the full race chassis, but I will eventually do a Ghia with everything else listed.

Here's a pic to get an idea

Mysticle31

July 1st 2004, 14:39

Excelent cars! I'm a fan of the EVO WRX. AWD!! my goodness. make them lighter and wooh!

I was refering more to the wonderful world of VW's old cars with good platforms..

Supa Ninja

July 1st 2004, 19:38

I've always like the 1302's, I never got used to the curved windsheids on the 03's, but I really like the McPherson struts. Basically what I'm doing to mine is my dream setup, beefed up front sus, 944 alloy full rear sus, 901 tranny w/914 gears, health Type IV maybe a turbo or FI down the road (since I got the sport bike I've really been enjoying have the ability to accelerate like a bullet), 944 brakes, gutted interior, sport seats, carbon dash, 944 guages, mono chromatic canary yellow paint, no stereo, 17's...what a GL is all about, a VW supercar.
I have some idea's for the 914 too; f/g trunks, f/g flared fenders, glass bumpers, and valances, 17's, bigger brakes, Porsche 3.6L, roll cage, mono chormatic white paint, carbon dash insert (thanks Carbon Joe)...914 GL.

boygenius

July 1st 2004, 22:20

My ultimate car is sitting in my garage right now. 944 brakes on all 4 corners. Late 944 trailinmg arms with complete 944 suspension. Built type 1 tranny. 18" turbo twists. Käfer cup brace. 914 gauges. The rest is still in the works so there is no telling what it will end up like. :laugh:

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 02:08

I've been wondering how you supercharge or turbocharge an aircooled. (I like the go like a bullet thing. Not only from a stop/drag but passing other cars up to say about 80MPH on the freeway.

How do you cool a boosted engine? That's more heat for the engine to take and cooling is a big issue with these aircooled engines it seems. How much boost can they take?

Another thing I'm interested in is cost to run, buy (initially) and make a reliable VW 1302 Superbeetle Supercar vs a watercooled supercar vs Honda vs toyota vs Mitsu vs...whatever vs 5.0 Mustang (do those handle :p )

NO_H2O

July 2nd 2004, 03:05

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 03:14

That's prety much my goal. Best bang for buck 140-200HP whichever gets me there reliably. Is there anything wrong with having a 4 speed? My MK2 VR6 on the track I've only gone 128MPH. Don't imagine I'd need any more, as long as I can cruse and get good gas milage say..60-80. Rarely do I go faster even in the 6 (although I got pulled over going 95 at 1AM, nobody on the road and my inst cluster didn't work. I knew I was going a lil fast but it was soo smooth..) That I don't do..well intentionally.

NO_H2O

July 2nd 2004, 08:01

Nothing wrong with a 4 speed.

zen

July 2nd 2004, 09:11

power to weight is one of the key figures to keep in mind. the other is torque and where it comes on. some engines (rotary, T1) you won't see your power until 4.5k or higher. a TIV will come on about 2.5k. just depends what kind of driving you want to do. by the sounds of it, you lean towards the latter.

i have 176HP at the fly (will know wheels later this year) and expect weight to come in around 1800 give or take 50lbs. that puts me near 10:1. it is plenty.

since i have a standard, handling is sub-par compared to a 1302 or 1303. if i had to do over again, i would probably go 1303, but i like the uniqueness of mine (and benefit) that it is chopped and besides the weight loss i am forced to shift the center of gravity lower by moving the seats closer to the floor.

--low and wide-- :laugh:

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 14:26

I like that alot. What engine and tranny do you have in your car? I was looking at Massive Type 4 engines. Their nice, but it seems that 148HP is my limit with relibility. I'd love 10:1. What kind of tranny work do you have?

For the same price I can converat a CRX or boost a Miata.. but the superbeetle is all new parts

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 17:05

Oh I just saw you have a 2316. How much did it cost? Did you have a core to send? How long is it suposed to last? Why not the 2270 C? How do you like the engine? What's your tranny? Do any suspension work?

(one of the questions I have is how hard it is to turn the steering wheel with wide front tires, and how much pedal effort it takes to make the car stop. No power brakes or steering, but it donesn't need it..mabey)

NO_H2O

July 2nd 2004, 17:59

I built my Yard Sale Type 1 at the MassIVe shop(a great learning experience). I have seen lots of nice stuff come out of there. Jake strives to stay on the cutting edge of things. My last trip up, he was getting ready to test some DLC coatings for heat and ware protection, I saw Nickies for a VW for the first time at his shop, ceramic lifters for a VW I first saw at Jakes. There is a 3L Type 4 torque monster in the works up there called project X, I have seen it in different stages. He is working on some billet type 4 heads with Type 1 exhaust ports (just plain sick). He is very close to having a roller lifter/cam to market for the Type 4. Every time I go up there it is like a trip to Mad Scientist Lab.......well I guess it is. Just when you think you have seen it all,,,,,,the twisted Marine from Cleveland GA. will show you something new.

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 18:12

What's the differences in cost for type 1 vs type 4? Someone told me the prices are very similer for type 1 to type 4 all the way to a mild type 4 converion (vs miald type 1)?

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 18:15

dont forget about my 12th and 13th post in this thread :D

I'm almost done annoying the local community.. I like to think things though when I buy a project car I'm going to put money in and drive for 5, 6 years. Gotta know what your digging youself into.. (Wish I knew that with my Nissan)

NO_H2O

July 2nd 2004, 18:30

A performance type 4 exhaust is more costly than a type 1. And if you there are far fewer cheap knock off performance parts for a type 4. So if you look at top shelf parts only, it may be fairly close untill you get to the exhaust.

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 19:53

And where can I find some of these parts?

NO_H2O

July 2nd 2004, 20:15

There are links on Jakes site. If you want to build it yourself, think about one of Jakes Kit engines. All of the mock-up and machine work has been done and the combos are tested and proven. You just have to put it together.

vwpride73

July 2nd 2004, 20:43

If you have never driven or taken a ride in an 1800 lb. bug with 150 hp stuffed up the back of it you might want to do that before you start planning on a 300 hp powerplant. A 150 hp bug is fairly quick, not alot of stuff on the street will run with it. Stuff 200 hp in one and it is crazy quick. Add the right 5 speed to that ant is is both crazy quick and fast. 150 hp should keep all the hot Honda's and 5.0 Mustangs at bay. 200 hp should keep all the rest in your rearview.
I might be a little late on this one but a small displacment 200hp turbo engine will definitely keep almost anything at bay. Remember hp is great but torque gets you moving. Turbo engines and type-4 engine are notorious for making tons o' torque. I'd say one of my dream cars would be the purplish bug with a 230 hp type-4. It was in VWtrends not too long ago ( someone has to remember it). Anyways It ran 12's at the track yet has been clocked on the autobahn at 150mph. Could you ask for more? I think the thing that hinders a VW from being able to accelerate like newer cars (modified WRX and GTI's) at higher speeds would be the gearbox. Blah Blah Blah... :sleep:

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 20:53

That's why I like the type 4's is the torque. Streetable power! just push the accelator and go, and if you really need to go downshift and push the acclerator!

Where can I find more info on turbo engines? Which is a better platform for them type 1 or type 4?

With Jakes kit I'd think that the kit would actually be more expensive then the built engine as the built engine has the induction and ignition. The kit is a longblock. From what I read the carbs are mucho money! What is the price drifference? I wonder if I could rig up a reliable turbo or eaton supercharger from a car to some 1776 type 1 or some type 4? Reliable?

vwpride73

July 2nd 2004, 21:04

I have only seen one turbo T-4 and no numbers where mentioned. You can make a 1776 make 150-160hp reliably or make a 2332 make 250-275hp reliably with a efficient turbo set-up (key word is efficient) . I imagin the torque numbers would be the same yet sooner in the RPM band. A T-4 with a turbo would probably be the ultimate street/strip/road course engine. Imagin it... smoke anything on the street(when traction permits), destroy cars on the strip and be able to beat most anything on the track(if the car can turn). In all reality its all about the combo and what you want/need.

Mysticle31

July 2nd 2004, 21:16

How do you cool such an big engine? Becouse they always say that boot is like having a larger engine. How do you cool it? IE the type 4's at say 150HP all have DTM cooling or Porsche cooling?

No computers, just fuel regulator set a few points ahead of the turbo! just a little tiny tiny turbo..

boygenius

July 2nd 2004, 21:21

vwpride73

July 2nd 2004, 22:45

DTM with nickies should be able to handle the heat.

Turbo EFI with stand alone engine manegment is the only way to go.
Yeah I mean it does say dream car! Get crazy. But really if I had money to burn I would opt for a split window bug, custom tubular frame, big turbo autocraft engine, mendeola five speed, totally custom suspension (set-up for road course), big 911 brakes all around, 17x7.5 front and 17x9 rear and interior stock except for a rollcage, buckets, couple gauges. pretty much the only thing thats original are interior items and the body. All of you elitest can kiss my arse. :laugh:

Mysticle31

July 3rd 2004, 02:40

my goodness.. how about a practical dreem car. No Lambos for me! Makes me wonder how much a stock cylinder engine can take?

zen

July 3rd 2004, 17:47

Mysticle, I can't stress enough that you want to figure the best you can what your use of the car is going to be. that will best dictate what you want to put in there. you can build a T1 cheaper than a TIV (HP for HP), but the quality of parts and longevity would be drastically different.

you could cut a lot of your research time and any potential waffleing (which i constantly did before going with the 2316) by just giving Jake a call and talking to him about what you are shooting for and see what kind of figure he can give you. i went with the 2316 because its powerband was a little better suited to what i wanted to do over the 2270. that is what comes with talking to Jake. keep in mind it is just his opinion and he leans to TIVs, but i think you will find him to be open and honest about what your desires are vs. what he can deliver...and then factor your budget in there too.

vwpride73

July 4th 2004, 00:33

my goodness.. how about a practical dreem car....Um I guess thats why they call it a dream car. :rolleyes:

Mysticle31

July 4th 2004, 14:10

I'm sure prises are different between the two. Thats why it put up a red flag for me.

Although if the Type 1 costs say.. 5 bucks and they type 4 costs 6 bucks and I have to rebuild the 1 2 times in the length of the 4 mabey the 1 is better?

That why I wanted to ask about Subie/Rotory swaps. I don't know much about their power curves and granded if I did the swap I won't have all new parts. But they would be stock with more tuning potenial and still go?

miller

July 4th 2004, 15:53

My street racer includes everything in my profile. It might be a bit more heavy then stock ghia but I plan to get crackin with the carbon fibre and upgrade to a aluminum inline 4 later on. Makin a tube chassis is fun. I only have a full scale wood model right now but I plan to make it out of steel once ive collected all the tool to make my creation.

Mysticle31

July 4th 2004, 16:09

that's alot of custom work there.. just in the double A arms..

Mysticle31

July 4th 2004, 23:06

What exactly does a custom tubular chassis mean?

What are the essencial mods for a VW Supercar?

Mikey 1972GL

July 4th 2004, 23:38

Miller, do you have any pictures of your progress so far?

Mike

vujade

July 5th 2004, 01:01

What exactly does a custom tubular chassis mean?

What are the essencial mods for a VW Supercar?

He's talking about replacing the pan with a custom built race chassis made out of tubular chromoly. Much stronger & lighter then a VW Pan. This is what most drag cars/race cars do.

Mysticle31

July 5th 2004, 03:28

That's gotta be expensive. I'm suprised no one make a build your own VW kit.. You can even build the chassis..wow..

vujade

July 5th 2004, 15:30

Here is an example of a tube chassis
http://www.ronlummusracing.com/rlr2/Photos/chassis.JPG

Mysticle31

July 5th 2004, 17:13

Gotcha. That is alot of custom work.

Do these cars (beeltes/superbeeltes) share any similarities with the Rear engined Porsches?

other cars I've been wonding about: BMW E30s (3 series 325, M3 etc) , 240SX, Porsche 944/924, Mitsubishi Eclipse or varient (Talon, Laser), Datson 510, BMW 2002, 5.0 Mustang (stright line anyway), Dodge Colt (Lanser), Miata, MR2, Old GMs with 350s (Monties, Comaros, Caprices, Cutlasses), New Comaro and Supras.

Those are the cars sugested to me when I went around asking what cheap go fast fun cars were. Why is there no Super Beetle here? Things seem cheep enough for it, large aftermarket parts. Granted the engines are more expenive to get HP as you have to do it all new, no real just bolt ons (IE ECU) but the cars themselves are cheaper? You can put 944 brakes on it (already people say those 944 cars stop well imagine them on a beetle) You can put WIDE tires on the beetle. I don't know about the suspension and handling but porsche uses a varient of it?

Someone also sugested E28 5 series, and Dodge Neons, and a Peugeot 505

CRX's were also sugested; If I was going to stay FWD I'd just keep the MK2 Jetta VR6.

NO_H2O

July 5th 2004, 17:42

I didn't build my car because it was cheap. I built my car because I love Aircooled VW's. I could have bought a nice 911 for what I have in mine. But my car is nice from one end to the other. and there is no schock value in being spanked by a 911. But if you are not in the know, and are spanked by a Bug you are more than likely shocked all to hell.

Mysticle31

July 5th 2004, 20:32

What all did you do to your bug? would you say you keep up with the 911s?

NO_H2O

July 5th 2004, 22:36

Once I get the 901 gearbox in it, I should have some fun with the 911's should stay with them on the short haul now, but I havn't tried one. So far I have 11 inch Brembo solid rotors and Ghia/914 callipers. MaxxStruts, saw bars, 16X6 C2 wheels/some nice tires and the 2275. This winter I should do the 901 install, strut brace and cup brace.

Mysticle31

July 5th 2004, 22:46

And you could have bought a 911 with all that?

Mysticle31

July 5th 2004, 22:46

and if you could define short haul? Is your engine type 1 or 4?

NO_H2O

July 5th 2004, 23:05

Mine is a type 1 engine, I have a good bit of money in the paint/body, I do show the car. I didn't list some of the stuff that that I have done. Paint like mine would run $5k+, an engine like mine would run you $5k, Then figure the car itself as a platform, Porsche C2 wheels aint cheap, All new interior/rubber, C/F running boards, Seats from a 2003 Celica GTS, audio system, mine was a ground-up restoration some everthing has be done.
Yep,I figure 15K would buy a nice 911. A friend of mine bought a sweet unmolested 76 911S for less than 8K shipped from Cali. to GA.

Mysticle31

July 5th 2004, 23:26

5K engine.. that's a pricy sucker. What have you done suspension wise?

NO_H2O

July 6th 2004, 00:54

I don't have 5K in the engine, but if I had to have someone build it again it would be 5K+.
I have TopLine MaxxStruts, urethane bushings, Sway-A-Way bar in the rear, A machinest friend is building my strut brace and cup brace, and I still need to do a 7/8" sway bar in front.
I would like to do one without high end paint/restoration and use fiberglass fenders 944 arms/brakes, 2L type 4 for a daily driver/track car. Stip everything. That would be much cheaper. Maybe one day.

Mysticle31

July 6th 2004, 01:28

less the high end paint and frame off doesn't seem that expensive is it?

As I read in "The Perfect suspension" Is it true that the early 911 Had the same handling characteristics and weight dist. as the super beetle? How do I go about extracting the most handling potential out of this car? (less tubular frame) Nice extra Firm ride prefered!

Without lowering the front of the car. Lowering a macpherson strut suspension is bad for handling becouse it thows off the roll center (the roll center drops faster then the cg) Or if theres away to maintain that geomitry that I am not fimilier with. (Idealy the control arms should be.. say .5 inch higer on the inside then the outside depending on spring rate)

Supa Ninja

July 6th 2004, 01:31

I've had my 1302 for 14 years now, and from day one i've been trying to get to go fast. Growing/living in the hills I've really learned to appreciate the twisties. Who in their right mind would dump, lets say $10,000-$30,000+ on a Volkswagen Bug. Now since the German Look is starting to take off and the obvious potential of these cars is finally becoming known by the VW community and not by the rest of the automotive industry that will make for a lot of fun times for us when we finally get our machines on the street.
What I'm tring to say is that we are all very sick in the head but we all have same sickness. A vision of a Volkswagen tearing some of the best cars in road race like conditions. Back in the late sixties vw's were smashing GTO's and other 8's in the quarters but that was then, and now its the corners. And we got to be on the cutting edge to keep up with these new cars that are coming out, they keep on getting faster and faster, so we gotta do the same. It's just evolution of a old design.

NO_H2O

July 6th 2004, 08:13

If you skip the 5K paint, the new rubber everywere, Powdercoating stuff, wet-sanding and buffing, new interior, etc. You will drop the price of you car alot. Just find a good car, a donor 944 T or S in a junk yard to get your goodies from, a 2L 914 engine, trow a nice cam/lifters, exhaust, upright shroud, etc. at it, some fiberglass fenders(used would be better) and a cheap paint job. strip everything off it less a good drivers seat, guages, pedels. You would have a good street/track/driver car.

Mysticle31

July 6th 2004, 14:16

I'm looking at a car right now that has a full mullholland kit (the rear wing has been made very tastful, not just a like..dinner table slab)

It's porsche red, with all one piece tinted glass front windows, 3 inch wider fenders on all 4 corners (massive massive tires I can shove inder there!)

It doesn't run drove into the gerage 5 or 6 years ago (new tank and lines should make it run)
Needs paint (cracking laquer)
I would have to buy new seats for it becouse the onese that are in there are on custom brackes for REALLY tall people (not me, really short person)
It's got new welt on the fenders but needs (and needs new rear window rubber. And while I'm at it if it's cheap enough I should buy new rear window rubber, door rubber..etc. I don't know where all the rubber places are.)
It'd also need..sometime. New tint on the other 3 windows
It's got stock 1600
Adjust-a-struts for a 1302 (have to be changed for the 944 stuff)
Got 14" wheels on it with 195s and 245s (also need to be changed for the 944 suff and to put way bigger tires under there..I wonder how far I can go?)

Comes with a few pref things. Some shifters, 914 gauges, a WHOLE BUNCH of mic oil temp/pressure/amp/tacs... gauges, new stering wheel, Some metal rod that I'm suposed to put hooks on and mount underneeth the engine?

What do you think? What's a good offer on this car?

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v299/Mysticle31/Superbeetle2.jpg~original

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v299/Mysticle31/Superbeetle8.jpg~original

Mysticle31

July 10th 2004, 03:52

No opinions? I'm also looking for a good offer to make on the car.

zen

July 10th 2004, 11:43

depending on rust conditions, $300-$500 tops. depending on what you are going to do (and may response is based on what i have seen you talking about in posts), plan on another $5-$10k. always take your budget and double it. that is always the minimum of what you will end up spending. well proven formula.

TitoRay

July 10th 2004, 14:56

Mullholland style bugs are probably the most undesirable of all beetles so I agree with that price.
At the same time, a few minor adjustments(paint!!!!!!!!!) on that ride and it would be a definite candidate for a killer German Looker.
Put 7-12k in engine, trans, brakes, and suspension and ur gonna have an extremely capable ride no matter what bug u choose. Just depends on what you want to start with.

Oh, and ditch the whale tail!! ;)

vujade

July 10th 2004, 20:17

it looks like its in good shape... I would give up to a $1000 for that car. But I would definitely get rid of the whale tail and the square lights.

boygenius

July 10th 2004, 20:20

always take your budget and double it. that is always the minimum of what you will end up spending. well proven formula.

And take the amount of time you think you will need to finish the car and quadruple it. ;)

Mysticle31

July 10th 2004, 21:49

I'm looking for somethig obsure that will turn heads. If this car is all fixed up will it do that? :laugh:

The deal is sweetned, as he also has a 2 liter type 4 ED (from a late bus, like 1975) is the first two letters of the code. It needs to be rebuilt (I'd imagine) and he has some webber carbs. I'd rebuild those too. It doesn't have a tin or anything just a compete engine and carbs with manifolds.

I think there are other carbs for it too.

What's a good package deal amount for this (on my side) Is that a good engine the ED? What's consitered the *best* type 4?

NO_H2O

July 11th 2004, 03:25

I"m not sure what a bus core engine is worth ($100-$300 depending no condition) the used webbers should be about the same, again it dedends on the condition. The bus heads will need extensive rework to use on the street/track engine you are looking for. You might be better off finding some 1.8L or 2L 914 heads. You should call Head Flow Masters and get their advice on the heads and send the heads(either the bus or 914) to them for the work. If you are looking to build a street/track turbo engine, don't look to use alot of stuff other than the case from the core engine. The pistons/cylinders will have to be top self (JE/L&N) head work from Head Flow Masters or Ham Inc. a good turbo grind cam from Web Cam and I would go with L&N ceramic lifters after some of the stories I have heard and seen with type 4 lifters in the past year. As for the turbo set-up I don't have any real info on that. Don't sink alot of money in the core engine if you aren't going to use much of the stuff from it. And when you are done the webbers might be too small, If you are going to turbo it you will need 1 big carb or an FI set-up.
As far as the car,,,I agree with the "Loose the square lights and whale tail" comments. Or get the Yahn Hammer cd with the Miami Vice theme song to bast as you drive down the strip. :laugh:

Mysticle31

July 11th 2004, 05:07

The stock cylinders arn't any good even for low boost? (only lookin at 150-200HP here. I actually don't want to exceed 200HP. Not looking for a Super Tranny for the Super Beetle, although to recognise a perf. tranny is good and more then likely needed. I know where to find some stock (or close to it) parts (pelicanparts) but no idea where to find other parts.

I'm interested in Turbo as I can assemble it myself (also I've found no kit) and potentually save some beans as your just makeing the engine more efficent (100% + VE is possible with turbo, although it does generate more heat)

Can I overbore the cylinders? or do I have to buy new ones?

NO_H2O

July 11th 2004, 18:19

You can bore the 94's to 96's but that still leaves you with buying pistons. Then you will want to turn up the boost and the iron jugs won't shed the heat like Nickies will (Nickies were the standard on Porsche 6 cyl engines from the 70's on and all turbo cars). I think that if I were planning a turbo engine, I would plan on useing Nickies. I spent a year with a bad combo(wrong cam) that ran hot on the hwy(non turbo). It is a bad feeling, always watching the guages and wondering if this will be it's last trip out.

Mysticle31

July 11th 2004, 20:37

Well I could always just hone (can I do that with these?) and clean up the stock cylinders, get some hypernumatic or forged pistons, mich the crank (can you do that with these too?) and slap a turbo on it. If it'd be better. (I can compensate for the smaller pistons with alittle more boost :p

Does anyone know anything about these cylinder heads?

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=EHD0015&cartid=0709200457907416

I'd prob want the level 3's..
$699.95
45 X 38mm Valves. These have more extensive porting and larger valves compared to the Level 2 heads, and shows that you are more serious about your motor and performance! Street engines with 94 bore size around 2.0L displacement will have around 165 Hp with these heads, when you have 44 or 48mm carbs.

I wonder how much low torque there is with this setup?

Supa Ninja

July 11th 2004, 20:50

That $699.99 price tag is per head. I'd go stage 2 on a turbo engine, and spend more on a nice set of connecting rods.

NO_H2O

July 11th 2004, 21:41

At this point all I can offer you is a couple links for you to get information.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=47&sid=7a99e345d8ff38593b0f575bf83b257c

http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=7a99e345d8ff38593b0f575bf83b257c

I guess you could hone the 94 jugs if they are srait to start with. If you "Make up for it" and add boost you will add heat that the iron jugs may not be able to get rid of, but I already said that (said lots of other stuff too). With out a proven combo you could spend lots of money only to find out that it will not cool or run right at all. Do your home work and get the right combo. I have never built a turbo air-cooled but I have seen a couple of small type 1 combo's that ended up scrapped because the "turbo kit" was not supported after the sale and the suggested combo was all wrong. First you need to know the little tricks of an air cooled engine and a type 4 inparticular. If you have never built an air-cooled engine, I don't think a performance type 4 turbo engine is one you need to start with. You have asked for advice in many areas of engine work, that leads me to believe that you don't have alot of experience or knowledge when it comes to these engines. They are not like the radiator laden engines you have tinkered with in the past. That is why I directed you to Jake. You may end up throwing good money after bad trying to make a bad combo work or you can let a leader in the feild give you a turn-key combo that will work and give you years of service. That is what a resposible moderator should do. There are 1 mabey 2 other reputable type 4 builders that I could recomend and a few that I would not recomend to anyone. One thing that I would not do is start on an engine like this with little to no experience or with out the guidance of someone that I know has the experience.
Thats all I can do is try to give you the best guidance I can. And I have. My work here is done.

Mysticle31

July 11th 2004, 23:58

Price is per head?? Where does it say that? Is that how it works with aircooleds? :eek: :D

Thank you for you assistance. I've added up several times the costs of doing this. And one of Jakes kits just might be in order. Unless I can find a "proven" cheaper moter that does what I want. That is difficult..

Mysticle31

July 11th 2004, 23:59

Are there any good Type 4 tuners here on the west cost? (What about Type 1 tuners?)

Supa Ninja

July 12th 2004, 03:15

The only Type IV specialty builder I can think of off the top of my head is Fat Performance, they have been building off road racing engines for many years now. I haven't heard anything about their street engines, good or bad.
Oh ya that is some very sound advice by NOH2O, I second that. Everytime I do trial and error building a VW engine it usually costs me a lot of cheddar.

Nick

miller

July 12th 2004, 16:49

I have a cardomain site that is pretty dated but has some pics of a spare block in the car and whatnot. Im still pretty much in the research and development stages of my a-arm suspension. It takes alot of reading to get a grasp on what need to be done to make a good handling car. im the only 67 ghia on cardomain. Ive chosen to redo the vw suspension due to the faults in the vw trailing arm setup and double a-arm is just cool.

vwdevotee

April 18th 2007, 01:46

My dream car is along the lines of the Bader Ghia. I'm thinking of a '55 Ghia, with a 9ff tuned 996 twin turbo engine, and the requisite 6-speed. Add a set of Brembo Gran Turismo brakes, 380mm front x 355mm rear, clamped by 8 piston front caliper and 6 piston rear. Mix in most of the suspension parts from a late model 911, and top it off with a set of custom 19 inch wheels, rolling Continental Vmax tires. I would probably have to drop close to 100 000 USD to pull it off, but as long as I am dreaming, I might as well dream big.