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CompuDJ
February 23rd 2005, 13:47
well im planning to shave the handles so wat would i need exactly ?
i never saw a shaved bug here in egypt before :)
so i guess ill be the first one to do it here so wat would i need exactly :confused: ??

Racelook
February 24th 2005, 09:25
An metal plate from 0,8mm or 1mm thick..
And an welder

Just remove your handles. Weld the holes close. Cut out the fingerhole at the back of your handles (don't know the english word for it).

Then make an plate on the good measurements and bend them on the exact same form as the door. Than weld that plates in.

P.s. you need also door- or trunkreleasers.. to open your doors after that.

P.s. Here in Holland it's legal.. but I don't know for egypt.

p.s. I also have shaved my handles on my door, but because I'm at an full resto i don't have maked the door working yet

p.s. And get info by an tuningshop or audioshop that does this stuff.. they can help you with information

Lot's of suc6

Wiebrand

CompuDJ
February 24th 2005, 14:18
ok but how can i open the doors again from outside ??? theres this device with remote i think where can i find it ??

Doogie S
February 24th 2005, 15:37
CompuDJ,

What you need a remote operator that will unlock your doors and pop open the door once it is unlocked.

A number of street rod shops have the parts. Autoloc makes a good one and so does Street works.

The operation is such that once you remove the handles and locks and fill in the holes as Racelook described, you mount a small solenoid inside the door which does the work of the handle you just removed. You also need "Door Poppers" to pop the door open so you can grab it and get in. These are basically spring loaded pins that push against the door when closed.

Do a search for street rod parts on the internet, you'll find all the answers you need.

Cheers,


Doug

BWE
February 25th 2005, 09:43
CompuDJ:
I shaved the handles on my '70 standard, easy enough to do just take your time!
You will need the solenoids as Doug described, but you won't need the door poppers. The weather stripping is enough to "pop" open the door after the latch is released. What you will need is a remote system similar to what most late model vehicles have on them. The system consists of a key fob, a "brain" for the car, and a series of relays. I have installed several. Watson's streetworks in the US makes a good one (though the transmitters are kinda ugly), SPAL makes an excellent system (which you can get with the solenoids included). Then you'll need to decide how many channels you want to have (1: driver's door, 2: passenger's door, 3: battery disconnect, 4: hood release, etc.....).
Something else to consider is that you should have a manual backup to open the door in case of a dead battery or a problem with the remote system. A pedal bike derailuer (sp?) cable run from the latch inside the door forward through the door jam and out into the trunk is a good idea (as long as you can get into the trunk!)
Good Luck!
Cheers,
Dave

coffinator
February 25th 2005, 15:43
If I were you I would NOT run a cable to the front of my bug. I would hook the power wire directly from the computer (brain) directly to the battery. The solenoid doesn'y need very much power at all to trip it. All my friends have shaved door handles on their show trucks and cars. It is extremely easy to do but it takes time. DON'T rush the process is the best thing I can tell you. It is best not to use body filler. Depending on how hot it gets there it might crack and fall off. If you have a local guy there that does leading thats the way I would go. If you are running a stereo system that requires another battery, I would run the solenoids to that.

Hope that helps,

mike

BWE
February 26th 2005, 20:45
Well I've need to use the cable release at least twice (once due to a dead battery, once due to an assistant shutting the door seconds after I removed the battery to replace it!) It is cheaper than having to replace a quarter window seal, and I don't see why you wouldn't do it?
Cheers,
Dave

zen
February 27th 2005, 11:02
a manual release makes me feel much better. you can use remote battery terminals placed somewhere accessible from the outside, but i preferred the manual release.

Doogie S
February 27th 2005, 13:30
I was thinking that a hidden set of terminals, like they use on race cars, tucked under a fender or something like that would replace a manual release in the event of a dead battery.

They would have to be wired into the main battery harness, but if the battery died, you could use a second battery to "jumper" the electrical system and open the doors, thus removing the requirement for the manual release.

I know Summit Racing and Jegs both sell these items. They are listed as "Remote Battery Jumper Terminals" and cost less than $20 bucks.

Just one of the ideas running around my head, as I am planning to get rid of the cables for the trunk and deck lid on my Ghia and use the system I just described.

Cheers,


Doug