Another beetle audio install - progress pics

[Dasdubber]

Inspired by Troy, thought I'd share some pics of my installation so as not to bombard his thread!!

Here are some early pics of the dash mod which was dropped down using a donor dash section.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album103/dash7_Jan3.sized.jpg

Here is the original Kenwood HU I was going to run before learning a bit more about car audio and making some better informed decisions.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album42/interior4_Oct19.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Sub enclosure mid way through construction - 6x9 holes will be glassed over (their initial inclusion was based on more ill-informed advice from car audio "salesman" who ended up wasting my money).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album151/sub_boxT_Nov28.sized.jpg

And here it is nestled in behind rear seat and rollcage.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album151/sub_boxU_Nov28.sized.jpg

Amp rack I welded up (looks weak but is actually very stable) - these are the only two components of the original system I have kept (Kenwood 150WRMS and 240WRMS amps).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album151/amprack3_Dec21.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Now for the new stuff....

Alpine CDA-9833 HU slotted in place.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/stereo3_Mar14.jpg

And amp rack temporarily bolted in place (so I can eventually make the fibreglass surround).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/stereo1_Mar14.sized.jpg

Dynaudio 240GTs waiting patiently to be installed into custom kicks (still to come). Eclipse sub will replace the original pioneer.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album151/dyn240GT_Mar3.sized.jpg

Thats it for now, I'll update as progress continues.

[zen]

nice work. :agree: i will get some pics of mine soon too. i have yet to install the speaker cab. the rest is mostly in.

[Troy_Audio]

Hey,
you can post om my thread any time..
Thats 1 of my faveret HU install in a bug so far..
If i had the welding skills I would give it a shot.. maybe another time..
Your bug is a 10+ just sick..
Love the dyn's
((Dont forget you can add any Dyn Driver to that set..8's in the doors :D ))

Peace man keep'em comin I still got 100's of spot on my screen saver

Troy

[hybrid_john]

Nice, once again Das! :agree:
Nice reciever upgrade as well...Alpine is one of the best out there.
Oh and what size of componant speakers were you able to fit into the kick panels? I might only be able to fit 5.25 if i install the tweeters into the kicks as well...other wise I might put them some where in the dash or something.

let us know how the sub sounds once everything is going...i still havent made my decision on that part :rolleyes:

[Dasdubber]

Started on the kick panels today - masked up the footwell area, then applied foil with spray adhesive to contain the resin and to enable me to remove it all!

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks3_Mar19.sized.jpg

Applied two layers of glass and resin to form a base for the kicks that will wrap around in front of the pedals to get a bit more volume for the dyns. Work will continue tomorrow.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks6_Mar19.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Awsome...
you did that with the windows up right..
I heard it makes them sound better :laugh:

Keep it up man
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

hehehe.. :D

Pulled out the fibreglass base today and trimmed to size...next week will hopefully see some additional layers to the base as well as mount the mdf rings for woofer and tweeter.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks10_Mar20.sized.jpg

[volkdent]

As usual, a bang up job. Glad to hear you finally got some good advice from someone re: components. I've landed on Alpine head units myself after years of being a slave to Sony.

Some words of advice. As you apply more layers of fiberglass, the two layers you currently have will start to fold in on themselves and distort. The way to keep this to a minimum is to roll out as much of the resin as you can so the resin/matt ratio is as low as possible.

You've probably figured out the fleece stretching idea if your looking at MDF rings for the speakers.

See what the air volume is for your mids. I used Quart Q's for mine, and the volume requirement is much more than a kick panel pod can fit. If you find the sound is small and restricted in the midbass area, an awesome way to fix it is to port the enclosure.

I had cut a hole in the metal near the bottom of the kick panel to access the heater tubing connection for the hose that heads up to the top dash vents, as I couldn't reach the area any other way. I was able to use hose clamps there to solidly mount the flex tubing.

The hole in the metal allowed an exit point for the vent in the back of the enclosure. I used some sticky sided weather proofing around the vent and sealed it to the hole in the metal, allowing the backpressure to vent to the luggage compartment and not into the interior. The sounds was instantly improved and the depth of the midbass much lower. :D

I also have my sub up front to keep the sound all coming from the front and to try to neutralize the rear weight bias of the car a bit. I really have liked the results.

http://www.geocities.com/volkdent/BugInterior.html

Jason

[Troy_Audio]

Nice Jason..
That SS 805 is a choice amp..
I just got rid of afew so my buddies could run some oldschool power..
Nice setup.. If you get sick of the JL try Image Dynamics. The subs are sick.. small air space/low power & they pound w/SQ
Peace out Nice work everyone..

[Dasdubber]

Thanks Jason, so when you say resin to matt ratio as low as possible, this means using as little resin as possible right?

Regarding your port, that is a neat idea to vent to luggage area...I'm a little reluctact to drill/cut into all my new paint (Even though it will be hidden anyway)....would it be detrimental if I have to port it into the interior?

I've tried to maximise volume by wrapping the pods around in front of the pedals etc - won't be anywhere near as large as door volume but was hoping that would help a little.

Cheers for the tips/advice - I am pretty new to all this audio stuff so any help is appreciated.

[Troy_Audio]

You could always leave the front(nearest to the front of car) open
add some acoustic foam to brake down the standing waves.. thats kinda what i did . my Alpine Type X need lots of air aswell..
They sound good for now my imaging is off a bit but I think a good tuning will help alot..
the 1 thing you want to avoid is air from behind the speaker getting to the front ..this will make cansolaion problems..
aslong as you have a serface to brake down the waves you should be ok..
((You can also get standing waves in the door so adding "Egg crate" to the back wall of you speaker pod if you have room can help .. or acoustic foam)

By the way you plan on paint of cloth on the kicks?
if your doing cloth you can form it across the front and exit that way so you dont cut the car..
Spoze you could do the same with paint but you would add a ton of prep work..

peace troy

[Dasdubber]

By the way you plan on paint of cloth on the kicks?
peace troy

Paint at the moment...depending on how I am going for time I may make a vinyl covered insert but that would mean a whole lot more fiddling around! We'll see what happens!

Cheers again for the advice.

[volkdent]

If you were to port to the interior, as Troy mentioned, you have to slow the waves coming off the back of the speaker. Really, you don't want ANY waves coming in from the back of the speaker, but sometimes you have to make sacrifices. You could also do all the calculations for volume and actually port the kpanel boxes correctly for the woofer. There are a bunch of specs on the instructions that come with the speakers. Some of them are Qas, Vas, and other such non-sense. Those numbers can be used to calculate the required box volumes and port lengths and styles. Ideally, get in touch with the manufacturer and explain the situation, that you have limited space. When you've completed the kpanel box, provided the MDF wood you've used is resin coated, you can just fill up the box with water and then measure the volume in a measuring cup, Tupperware type juice jugs are great as they usually have a graduated measurement on the side. If needed you can then add the ports, whether into the luggage area, or inside the car. These little things are all pretty variable, so let us know what you decide to do. I bet the speaker manufacturer can help you out a bunch. Also, if you can find a really good stereo shop who doesn't mind lending advice, they are a good source of info too.

Regarding resin/matt ratio, you just want to use as little resin as you can to actually wet the matt, too much resin just makes it weaker and heavier. Put at least 6 layers of matt down, to make it at least 1/4" thick. I then like to spray the entire interior of the box with spray on sound deadening material, followed by polyester filler, the same stuff cheap pillows are stuffed with. You can find it at any craft store or fabric store. Try out the sound at every step, because sometimes it sounds better with less than more. Consider covering sound reflective surfaces with material as well, as the reflective waves play havoc especially in the 4K hertz frequency and higher.

Jason

[volkdent]

Oh, I almost forgot, be really carefull with how much space you give you feet around the pods, they need more room than you think.

Jason

[Dasdubber]

You could also do all the calculations for volume and actually port the kpanel boxes correctly for the woofer. Jason


Thanks again for you help Jason, according to the specs, recommended sealed box volume for the MW160 woofer I will be using is between 7.1 and 21.1L. Here is a link to the specs:

http://www.dynaudio.com/eng/mobile/pdf-mobile/DYN_MW160.pdf

I'll try and get in touch with manufacturer re. ports etc....7.1L may be achievable since I am using the space in front of the pedals etc, but 21.1L would be impossible! :confused:

[Dasdubber]

Retaped the interior this arvo and applied another two layers of fibreglass matt (trying to minimise resin use!).

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks10_Mar23.sized.jpg

[hybrid_john]

Nice...I like how your wrapping the panels around like that...it should give you move ooomfff, when it come to sound!

Good job man :agree:

[volkdent]

Think about 3.5 two litre bottles per panel. That's a LOT of volume. Your right, you can only get that if you wrap around. Again though, go through pedal travel with some big shoes on, make sure you have plenty of room.

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Picked up the new eclipse sub today - would have liked to mount it inverted but the rollcage gets in the way so it will sit like this. 6x9 holes will be glassed over soon.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox_Mar24.sized.jpg

Trimmed base for kicks (again) after second two layers was applied - nice and rigid now. Once I set the mdf rings in place I'll ensure I do lots of imaginary trial runs to make sure my feet clear - I'll even make some "broom broom" sounds for special effects :D

Not much work this weekend (going away), but will continue next week.
Cheers
Alan

[volkdent]

Have you measured that the volume is correct for the Eclipse sub in that enclosure? Contrary to popular mythology, Box A and Subwoofer B may not be compatable. The box volume must be correct for the sub or you may have much less than enjoyable results, from just poor sounding bass to woofer meltdown. You can use Kitty Litter or just plain water if everything is glassed to calculate volume. Don't forget, once the volume of the box is understood, the volume of the speaker assembly must be subtracted from that volume to equal the actual working air volume that the subwoofer sees. Usually the speaker assembly volume is somewhere in the list of sub properties.

[hybrid_john]

Thats some pretty technical stuff there man...good thing I have a freind who can help out in that area....hopefully :rolleyes:

Good Luck down under Das :agree:

[Troy_Audio]

here is a good link for box sizing..
12volt Link (http://www.the12volt.com)
peace Troy

[hybrid_john]

Nice link there Troy...lots of information! :agree:

Thanks man :D

[Dasdubber]

Cheers Troy, yep I had planned to determine correct box size for the new sub (which I know is extremely important) and adjust current box to suit. Will keep you all updated.

[Troy_Audio]

Yeah im kinda doing the same..
I have a 1.8^ sealed box right now..
Im waiting for a 2.3 Ported@28Hz
this will fit perfect between the wheel wells..slot port on each side of the sub..
My Audio is on holt till i can finish tuning my motor..
Peace Keep up the good work..

[Dasdubber]

Managed to find time after work today to position the woofer and tweeter rings via wooden dowel:
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks11_Mar29.sized.jpg

Trying to obtain best imaging is difficult without having seats in nor power to run the splits. I tried to position the tweeters to fire at opposite person's head using a long piece of dowel (didn't have a laser pointer). Its a little bit of a hope for the best situation - who knows, in the future may have to redo them once the car is up and running (we'll see)
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks13_Mar29.sized.jpg

I will be making an mdf skeleton to obtain the desired shape of the outer skin (and to make sure there is adequate clearance for feet etc). Although I am interested in obtaining best possible results with the audio installation, it is my first, and also have a number of constraints (like a half finished car!) so it will not be of audiophile quality....but I'll still be happy I am sure. :p

[Mudo]

AMAZING!!!!! , nice job. ..... Dasdubber for president!!.

[NO_H2O]

Nice work, and good advice given. I have worked with Pro audio for a while and do some mobil audio too. It does my heart good to hear someone put the focus of building a sub enclosure on matching the encloser volume to the driver being used. I have seen people go to an "Audio Shop" and get sold an enclosure that fits the space and then the shop will drop in just any driver without matching it to the box. They seem to be more focused brands and getting the most out of the customers wallet than they are getting the most out of the components being used.
Love that under dash console.

[Troy_Audio]

Dubber
I highly sugjest atleast dropping the seat in..
I did my staging w/out seats & its way low..
I do have an out but im still tuning my motor.. so i will wait a bit..
lay a blanket or somthing to set your seats on..
if your going to do it doit..
i knew i should have used my seats but i didnt .. now im pissed..

Afew tips that I use
#1- after setting mids/Tweet in place
measure from the center of the near side woofer/tweeter To the drivers Ear

#2- When you have the angle..
(Estimated listening angle to the near side woofer from the driver's seat)
((This is the angle from the center of the woofer out to the head position of the listener))

#3-Measure the Diffrence in distance between the near side woofer & tweeter to drivers head position in the drivers seat..
(Try to keep the off axis angle under 45degz)

Some Music with ladies singing & light faint sounds..
try to pickout the stage..(Im sure you knew that from it called staging)

Take your time take your time take your time

But lets see.. what you got..
You should use a Test CD.
Ultimate SQ Setup CD set (http://www.ofsoundmind.com/OSM2/frame.htm)

Elitecar audio.com has a OnLine install Clinic (http://www.elitecaraudio.com/home/html/search.php?query=&topic=1)


Keep up the good work
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Thanks again guys for the advice, it is much appreciated.

I tried to keep the woofers as far as possible from the driver's/passenger's ears in attempt to maintain as equal pathlengths as possible (within reason as space and pedal position restricts this to a degree). Hopefully this will keep the imaging tight, and eliminate frequency shift and separation.

This is partially why I ended up going with the Alpine 9833 HU as it has time alignment facility - not something that I would want to mess about with too much to adversely affect the SQ for passenger/s...but may be a handy feature to correct for the differences in pathlengths.

The tweeters down low may result in a slightly lower stage height, hence why I've tried to keep them as high as possible (within reason again). Hopefully it won't be too noticable, and without installing some abient tweeters to raise the stage height, its something that I probably won't be able to overcome all together. I wouldn't want to move the current tweeter further up though as it creates other problems (freq separation and bigger differences in pathlengths).

Once I get the preliminary placement issues sorted out and the actual hardware installed (still have to rewire the whole car remember! - will be using optima yellow top batt by the way)...I will be taking it to a reputable (lots of feedback and input on car audio forums and in person) installer (shop) to have it all tuned so that should help.

I am an Audiologist (fit hearing aids, perform hearing assessments etc) and some of the similarities with car audio are quite cool, some of the things I've learned through reading about car audio has helped me in my job, and vice versa!

This arvo I will put the seats back in temporarily (may even pick up a cheap laser pointer) and have a closer look at woofer/tweeter placement before I glass the outer skin!

Cheers again
Alan :agree:

[volkdent]

I know you're still mocking things up, but you may want to remember to keep the axis' of the speakers parallel. If you look at home audio, you'll find a divergent mid/tweeter combo to be very rare. You want the axis' of each speaker to be on parallel axis' to each other, especially with separates as you are using, as the frequencies of each are designed to work as a system. It looks from the pics as the tweeters are angled up, and the mids kind of accross.

Your right about the level of the stage, it will be lower, but that is the nature of the beast in a bug unfortunately. Adding some reflective surfaces in just the right spots might help, I never spent the extra time. But the stage is not as low as you might think, about as high as the dash. In a perfect world it would be over the hood somewhere, but I think you'd have to move the tweeters up much higher, and you'd also have to run each channel separately to be able to delay the tweeters with your headunit to get them back to the same delay as the mids. Might work out well though, I've only played with my Alpines delays a bit, side to side, as the separates work together through the passive xovers supplied with them.

I look forward to your initial responses to the sound.

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Thanks for the tip Jason...I am a little blind during this installation because I am yet to rewire the car (will be using watsons street works kit)....so it makes it 'ken hard to trial different positions for the components. I could probably adjust the mid angle up a bit to better parallel the tweeter (which I adjusted to aim just in front of the face of opposite person - put seats back in temporarily this arvo). I am hoping there will not be a significant frequency separation.

I had a fellow plot the specs of the mid driver into WinISD (box design software)...

t/s small specs include:
*Fs 60Hz
*Qts 0.62
*Vas 10.1L

His advice was that "it IS possible to port it, but 10L is still a very small enclosure. and you'll want either a very steep xover filter (eg: 24dB/oct) or set it a bit higher (eg: 90~100Hz) to avoid the cone unloading (ie: overexcurting due to loss of enclosure cushioning effect below the tuning frequency).

something like 10L tuned to 60Hz using a 2x5" port could be ok. i've never contemplated porting a midwoofer to know if what i see on the frequency-response graph will equate to good incar performance."

Thoughts of porting into the cabin if I do end up porting? (I'd port in the centre [under the centre of the dash])

[craigt-from-atl]

I'm actually just finishing up my audio install in my GTI, but this thread has pushed me into doing a fiberglass install. I installed a 'false floor' for my subs, amp, and crossover. Ended up taking up a bit more room than I anticipated. Fiberglass would help recoup every nook and cranny.

Excellent, excellent work!! :agree:

[Dasdubber]

Cheers Craig, hope the revamp of the GTI will turn out well!

I attempted to squeeze in a port (the round shape on the inner end [which will be cut out once f/g is done]) as close to 2x5in based on some calculations/estimations in a "box design" software.

I also attempted to reposition the woofer angle to better parallel the tweeter but unfortunately the limited room did not allow a better angle. Either the woofer hit the base, or when the bottom edge was brought out, my feet would hit whilst trying to get to the pedals. So this is a compromise I'll have to live with.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks17_Apr3.sized.jpg

After checking fit (for the 50th time) resin was generously applied. And that was it for the weekend - more pics to come.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks18_Apr3.sized.jpg

Once last pic just because I thought it looked cool :)
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album95/kicks19_Apr3.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Yeah Baby..
That looks sick.. :clap:
Nice job man.. Keep it up...
Oh you dont need to stop workin on the car cuz the weekend is over..lol
Peace Troy

[volkdent]

Looks great! Sorry I've not been on as much, I'm cruising from island to island in Thailand right now, and the beach has been more appealing than the computer!

Regarding the install, try the port and see, then you can always close it off. One of the keys will just making sure the actual inclosure doesn't color the sound to much, then work on the tuning. I'm really impressed with how it looks so far.

I had the same problem with the angulation and foot space, so I cut the outside flange of the speaker down, so just the needed material was left, and that decrease the diamter significantly. I'll look forward to your next post with much anticipation.

It takes alot of time, doesn't it!!!

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Thanks guys! Yep it sure does take a lot of time :bawling:
You are right about the port too, I figured I'd put it in, and then experiment once done to see if it sounds better with it open or blocked.

Nonetheless, first few layers of matt and resin went down this arvo...
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks21_Apr4.sized.jpg

The circled area is where I had to adjust the inner skeleton to ensure my foot had adequate clearance when the clutch pedal is depressed - gotta think of these things sooner rather than later!
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks22_Apr4.sized.jpg

A couple more layers to go down in the next few days then prep for paint.

[Mudo]

:eek: :eek: Ooooh!! Babyyy!!! :agree: :agree:

Simply: amazing!!

I can't wait for the next post.

[hybrid_john]

I will deffinately say that your project is amazing as well. Keep up the good work there Das... everything is looking great man!

[coxy-ben]

nice job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

[Dasdubber]

Managed to sand down and cut off the edges and trial fit the kicks again....a little more trimming/sanding is required to get them to slot in all the way (didn't want to force them in for now and risk getting them stuck!).

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks23_Apr6.sized.jpg

There are a few gaps....as I said, this kick was not in place properly for the pic

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks24_Apr6.sized.jpg

[Mudo]

:bowdown: :bowdown: C'MON :clap: :clap:

[Troy_Audio]

dude lookin sick..:raiseroof
so is it paint or cloth?
ither way it's looking sweet..:clap:
I got my new garage so i may turn out some new stuff..
Sneek Peek (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/531918/11)

Hope you dont mine your pictures scrolling on my screen saver.. :D
Peace Troy

[zen]

looking great. should look super sweet when completed.

[Dasdubber]

so is it paint or cloth?

I got my new garage so i may turn out some new stuff..
Sneek Peek (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/531918/11)

Hope you dont mine your pictures scrolling on my screen saver.. :D
Peace Troy

Paint for these babies....will take longer but hopefully will look good once done - should blend in nicely with the rest of the paint work.

New garage looks cool - lots of space!!

no probs re. screen saver :)

[Troy_Audio]

Awsome..
I cant wait..
Im sure you are die'n to go crouze in your new ride too..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

First couple of coats of filler went down onto kicks today (sanding between obviously). Have more sanding, glaze filling, high build priming etc before paint is ready to go on though!

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks25_Apr10.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Lookin Sooo Goood
SO you going to hit up a comp or 2?
Keep it up..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Cheers Troy. I might go along to a show or two and see how the car goes. I would not be expecting to do too well compared to some of the systems out there! Hopefully I can get some points on presentation as I have a lot of hours in custom fibreglass work - and more to come! :bawling:

Received the Watsons Streetworks wiring kit last week, so I can finally start sorting out the electrical system, so I can then finally try out the audio....not to mention start the engine that has been patiently waiting for a long time!

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/wiring_Apr10.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Thats the same kit i got..
Where you plan on mounting it..
((Custom FG Fusebox Panel))

Peace Troy
:D I love giving more idea's

[Dasdubber]

Did you have any troubles with installing the kit? Looked to be pretty well organised.

I am running through a few ideas at the moment with the fuse panel mounting but I would say there will be fibreglass involved :D

I am just trying to mockup how I will fit the crossovers, distribution block and fuse panel next to the amps under the bonnet and still make it look balanced/symmetrical. Got to finish the kicks first, then move under the bonnet....then finish the sub enclosure....then paint it all!

No wonder this project is taking so long, I keep getting sidetracked with new ideas all the time! :laugh:

[Troy_Audio]

I hear that..
I was going to install a rear seat in my bug but when i was making my templets i layed the amps down & liked the way it looked & scraped my idea for what i got now..
Plus i saved the $200 on the rear seat..lol
Say when did you start you project..
the whole resto..?
I got my bug Feb/03 didnt realy start on it till Jan this year..
Rested wrist & shoulder to you..
I know that sanding feeling..lol
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Say when did you start you project..
the whole resto..?
Peace Troy

I think I started around May 2003 so just coming up to 2 years. That hasn't been all systems go the whole time though - during which I got married, had honeymoon, been busy with house renovations etc.

Well, a couple more layers of filler (with sanding in between) went down after work today - they're starting to look more respectable. Once primer goes on there will be a bit more fine filler to apply - we'll see how it goes.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks26_Apr11.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Nice..looks good..
Congratz on the wedding..

say you do all the painting right?
What kinda Tank/booth do you have?
Troy

[Dasdubber]

Cheers.

Yep I do all the painting - I use a 15cfm compressor (not sure of tank size - seems pretty standard for a 15cfm unit). Single cylinder but next time I'd like a dual cylinder as they recharge lost air faster (important when using airtools for grinding/sanding etc). I used a mid range (AU$280 approx) gravity feed gun - sorry, can't remember brand (maybe ATE but not sure if thats even a brand!). It wasn't a HVLP unit, but it was "high efficiency" which uses a similar principle to minimise overspray and lost paint. Works pretty well:

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album217/progress3_Mar6.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Hey is that a New CBR 900rr in the back ground?
I dont see a exhuast on the side.. must be under the seat..
Thanks For the info on the Painting..
I think im going to do Sound system work to pay a painter for the work..
Lookin @ BMW Phoeix Yellow
Peace Troy..

[Dasdubber]

Hey is that a New CBR 900rr in the back ground?
I dont see a exhuast on the side.. must be under the seat..
Peace Troy..

Nah, its my new Yamaha FZ6 - I ride it to work each day (and give my wife a lift to work as well) so had to get as sensible commuter with comfy riding position etc....still lots of fun though :D

It has a single muffler up under the seat with dual outlets below tail light - when I finish the bug and save some $ I'll get some decent pipes made up for it!

[Troy_Audio]

Hey man
Now that my car is running & i have drivin it a few miles..
How loud is your motor?
I think im going to install my system in my 97 Ram 1500
My Motor is SO Freekin LOUD!
my CD Player gose upto 80 vol..
I got to start @ 70 just to hear it..lol oh well makin it a racecar..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Haven't had mine running yet but would say it will be pretty noisy! I'll have to enjoy the audio system when either idling or stationary only :p

Anyway, a few coats of high build primer went onto the kicks today as well - looking pretty tidy!
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks27_Apr16.sized.jpg

Few little pinholes to fix up but otherwise will be ready for paint soon:
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks28_Apr16.sized.jpg

[volkdent]

Looking great! How many layers of fiberglass did you end up getting on those bad boys?

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Ended up putting on 6 layers on them - nice and solid.

[Troy_Audio]

Yeah.. I heard you on that.. mine sounds good with the motor off..lol
Keep it up looks like the project is comming to a close?
Whats next in line?
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Today I was engrossed in sub box modification - had to figure out how to cover the 6x9 holes and still make it look part of the original design. Covered entire surface of sub box with masking tape to protect the primed surface.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox2_Apr17.jpg

After tape, alfoil was glued in place with spray adhesive to form a barrier to avoid resin getting through to the primed sub box.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox3_Apr17.sized.jpg

Then a few layers of matt applied before allowing a couple of hours to cure before laying down a another couple of layers. More work to continue on these mods during the week - will update then.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox4_Apr17.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Filled the pinholes in the kickpanels and re-primed with two more coats of high build primer which will be lightly sanded with 400 to obtain a smooth base for the colour coat.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks29_Apr17.sized.jpg

Kicks looking nice and smooth - hopefully ready for colour next weekend.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks30_Apr17.sized.jpg

Temporarily bolted up my mate's Fuchs whilst my Cup3 replicas get a little custom treatment (this is my mate's Karmann Ghia which is very nice indeed - temporarily borrowing my BRMs!):
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album95/kg2_Apr17.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Yeah.. I heard you on that.. mine sounds good with the motor off..lol
Keep it up looks like the project is comming to a close?
Whats next in line?
Peace Troy

Still a fair way to go on this project despite looking like its almost done! Another few months at least.

After this is a 68 beetle which is already painted....just a quick resto (1916, but stock mechanicals otherwise) to try and recoup some $$ as the budget on this one blew out :bawling:

Ah well....then there is the 64 splitty panel van....but that will have to wait a while!

[Scotts73SB]

Great stuff there... your a pro!
Thats a lotta masking tape tho! Good patience! :agree:

[volkdent]

Those 6x9 holes should be perfect for a set of 6" separates, mount the 6" with the curve of the 6x9 then the tweeter in the center of the remaining moon shaped area.

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Thanks Scott - the sub box was my first ever attempt at f/glassing so I am getting better with more practice!

Jason, I did think about that for rear fill and may do so down the track....but the dynaudio front stage blew the budget so they will have to wait! I am making this new f/glass panel removable so I can potentially add some rear fill down the track.

:D

[Dasdubber]

Managed to leave work early today to lay down four coats of base coat and three of clear...turned out pretty sweet

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks31_Apr18.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Your work is like gold man..
Nice.
Peace Troy

[fred100]

that's GREAT job !!!!! :eek: :eek:

[samcat]

VERY good work, give yourself a pat on the back! Cant wait for pictures of them installed :D


Wouldnt be much harder to lay the first layer/visible bits in carbon fibre.... ;)

Sam C

[tom'72]

one word..... awsome :)

[NO_H2O]

This audio project is over the top. Very nice work. I hope it sounds as good as it looks. :agree:

[zen]

all i can say is "Wow, great job!!!!" Wish we could hear them as well. :agree: Mind if we all come over to sit in your car and take a listen? :D

[Dasdubber]

Cheers guys, I am very happy with how it is looking as well - just hope that the sound quality reflects the effort and time outlayed already!! Time will tell.

You are all welcome for a demo listen - might be an expensive trip all the way to Australia though!

Sam I did think about the carbon fibre - would look sweet indeed, I've never worked with it though....so maybe next project!

Now to tackle the sub box and get it sorted!

[volkdent]

If only everyone could learn as well and do as well with what he's learned! Very nice. Next is tuning. Let us know how it sounds.

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Slipped in the Dyns for a trial fit tonight just to tease myself....
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks32_Apr21.sized.jpg

...can't wait to hear these running! I intentionally set them in quite far so they aren't damaged as feet will be brushing past them often!
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks33_Apr21.sized.jpg

[Scotts73SB]

Wow thats some beautifull stuff... awesome color!! :agree: :agree:

[Racelook]

Just as the rest!

Verry verry verry nice!!

Good job mate.

Wiebrand

[ricola]

Awesome job, but I wouldn't have expected anything else considering your work so far! :D

How are you going to fix them to the car, are them some hidden fittings bonded in?

Rich

[hybrid_john]

Great looking set of kick panels you've got there Das... :agree: :D

[fred100]

just a question: how do you fix it in the car..???

[Dasdubber]

Three M6 stainless bolts with nylock nuts hold them in place (two to a-pillar area, and one through firewall). Also they are an "interference fit" which means I have made them very snug (hard to get them in!) so they'll be nice and secure.

Marked out filler panel for the sub box....
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox5_Apr24.sized.jpg

...so I knew how far to apply the filler to provide further strength and to smooth out the bumps.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox6_Apr24.sized.jpg

Bolted in the drivers side kick panel this evening - certainly isn't going to rattle as it is tight to get in and the three bolts with nylock nuts make them very secure.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks34_Apr24.sized.jpg

Fortunately managed to run the speaker wiring fairly discretely. Tomorrow the passenger side will go in.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks35_Apr24.sized.jpg

[ECBug]

Looks like VW made it that way, Very nice work!

[samcat]

Fortunately managed to run the speaker wiring fairly discretely. Tomorrow the passenger side will go in.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks35_Apr24.sized.jpg


There isnt a jaw drop smiley where the jaw drops far enough!

Thats simply awesome! Certanly gives us mere mortals something to aspire too.

Sam C

[Mudo]

Again....... A-M-A-Z-I-N-G !! :eek: :eek:

Only one doubt : How to fit it? :cool:

Thanks everyone

[NO_H2O]

Very, Very clean install. Lots of work, but it is paying off now. :agree:

[Dasdubber]

Okay, time for more pics....

After a bit more fine filler, I cut the filler panel to shape which will cover the 6x9 holes.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox7_Apr25.sized.jpg

This is the filler panel if you didn't guess already :)
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox8_Apr25.sized.jpg

If I had my time over I would have recessed the sub or made the box so it could be inverted (but rollcage gets in the way)....but still looks good I think.....will look better after paint.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox9_Apr25.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

After a bit of clearancing the passenger kick panel went in.... a little pursuasion was required due to the tight fit, but they got there eventually!
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks36_Apr25.sized.jpg

Two bolts accessed through tweeter/woofer holes and one through the port hold them in place - all of which are a pain in the ar$e to access but to have them hidden from view it had to be done.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/kicks37_Apr25.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

SICK!:clap: :trophy: :clap:
Thats it..
Awsome job mang..
looks waybetter than factory
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Just a little work on the wiring system - I threaded some plastic tube through both heater channels for the wiring - here is the stinger 1/0 gauge cable that will power the amps...more progress to come.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring4_May1.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Took a couple of hours to lay out all The cables to figure out what had to go where (wanted to avoid pulling the wrong cables through the wrong spot!).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring5_May2.sized.jpg

After a bit of lube (silicon spray) assisted slipping the cables through both tubes - especially the 1/0 power cable.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring8_May2.sized.jpg

Knocked up an MDF mounting box for the fuse panel - wires everywhere at the moment but it should be pretty sano once done. Painted it in body colour so it looked the goods (sorta).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring9_May2.sized.jpg

As you can see, I still have a bit of work ahead of me!
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring10_May2.sized.jpg

[NO_H2O]

He just keeps going and going. :agree:
The sicker you think, the player you get :laugh:
Once again,,,,, very nice work. :cool:

[Troy_Audio]

Dont you just love that fusebox..
Looks good man..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Over the weekend, managed to solder wire ends and insert them into fuse panel. Bit more tidying still to come....and haven't started under the bonnet yet!
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring11_May8.sized.jpg

I had the sub box insert panel covered in vinyl (same as seats etc) by the upholsterer....then filled around the edges to make it a flush fit.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox10_May8.sized.jpg

After some more fine filler and high build primer, not to mention more sanding....base and clear coat will go on. Should be a nice contrast with the vinyl.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox11_May8.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Nice
That was a very good idea
Looks Classy
How do you like the Watson kit so far?¿
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Thanks Troy.

Watsons kit so far is really good. The instructions are very comprehensive and for someone like me with very little experience in auto electrics, it makes the process a lot easier. The marked wires are also very useful. I haven't found anything wrong with it yet actually!

[volkdent]

Your going the most amazing job with all of this. I'm really impressed with your attention to detail in every arena!

Jason

[Troy_Audio]

I do love the marked wires..
the fuse box it trick looks great on that base you made..
Keep us posted on the Project of the year..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Wiper and headlight switches are back in place (but not yet wired up) and the little alloy retaining nuts were polished up. New ignition switch also in place (which has an accessory position).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring14_May12.sized.jpg

Monster tach back into position as well and wired up - expanable nylon cable conduit was used to keep the wires tidy, and rubber grommet for wires through the body of course.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring12_May12.sized.jpg

All those connections took bloody ages to solder, join, clamp into connectors, heatshrink and bolt in place. It will all be tidied up a little more once I get the ignition switch, wiper and headlight switches and wiper motor sorted.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiring13_May12.sized.jpg

[Mudo]

..... any more!! ...... any more!!! ....... jejejejejeje


:)

[Dasdubber]

I made a switch panel out of aluminium and gave it a brief polish (a hazard switch off late model beetle, then three switches (one for fuel pump, one for windscreen washer, and one spare).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/switchpanel1_May17.sized.jpg

Pic is a bit blurry but you get the idea - because the original fuse box is no longer used, I thought it was a perfect spot for the switches.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/switchpanel2_May17.sized.jpg

Two stainless button head bolts with nylock nuts secure the panel in place.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/switchpanel3_May17.sized.jpg

I layed down another coat of high build primer on the sub box today...bit more filler required to smooth out some imperfections before the base coat colour goes on. You can see the recessed section for the vinyl insert.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox12_May17.sized.jpg

[tom'72]

Absolutely fantastic work, I do fiberglass work myself and can imaging making those kicks would be one heck of a job :agree:

[Troy_Audio]

Ahh Man..
Its tonice..
I think i need a new bug Mines not as kool..lol
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Thanks guys :agree:

Laid down three coats of base coat on the sub box....
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox12_May21.sized.jpg

After base coat came a few coats of clear...
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox13_May21.sized.jpg

One final shot for today - hopefully tomorrow I'll get the vinyl insert and sub in place, and the box into the car (although carpets are still a little way off).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox14_May21.sized.jpg

[Racelook]

Stays damn nice mate!!

Wiebrand

[Dasdubber]

Vinyl sub box insert was popped in place and sub positioned just for the pic (still have to fix it in place).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox15_May22.sized.jpg

Hopefully will get it bolted in place soon.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/subbox16_May22.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Lookin Great ..
hey Sent You a PM..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

No great advances - wiring pics will be up soon once I tidy it all up.

The optima yellow top D34 battery has been purchased - now I can sort out the power junction point and power/ground wires.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optima_May31.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Comming to geather nice..
I put my Bug Sound system in >>Dodge Ram 1500<< (http://www.cardomain.com/id/ramthis1500)
Get some Good pix of the power junction..
I was not real sure how to do them would like to see the way a pro dose it..
Peace Troy

[NO_H2O]

Dasdubber,,, Your system turned out very nice. Lots of hard work, but it sure did come together nice. :agree:

[Dasdubber]

Hey Troy - dodge ram looks pretty tough!!

Thanks NO_H2O - its coming together pretty well - just can't wait to hear it!

Okay, a new update...
Started playing with the battery clamp (aluminium) and mdf surround....
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optima2_Jun7.sized.jpg

The two long bolts will go through the floor up through the mdf and aluminium (through those two holes). The mdf will be fixed to the battery clamp and supported underneath the fuse block which can be seen here.

Of course the mdf will be tidied up, edge routed (roundover) and painted in body colour to match fuse panel box...and aluminium will be milled and polished.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optima3_Jun7.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Oh Maan Thats Pretty Far Out!!

:-)
Nice Peace..
Troy

[Dasdubber]

No major progress - just prepped and painted the battery surround in two pack base/clear - will look pretty nice for something that no-one else will see! I'll have to lift the backseat up at shows ;)

Hopefully more progres pics next weekend if the car is back from the trimmer by then.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optima5_Jun19.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Bit more progress today, cleaned up the earth point and used a Stinger fitting for the battery ground (1/0 cable).
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/ground_point_Jun26.sized.jpg

The painted battery surround platform which houses the fuse holder was bolted into position along with the battery and ignition junction blocks (hidden under the surround)
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optim6_Jun26.sized.jpg

Decklid spring is back on so it stays open without the old screwdriver in hinge trick - hopefully more work on the audio in the next week or so. Sub box went in this arvo (will get some pics soon) - just have to bolt it down.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album230/engine_bay2_Jun26.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

Oh Boy..
Getting So Close Now..
What is left on the list
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Oh Boy..
Getting So Close Now..
What is left on the list
Peace Troy

Still a few things - the most major of which is to remove and paint the front beam and trailing arms - once these go back on the brake lines can be connected and bled. There is still a bit of wiring to sort out before final checks....then the engine can finally be fired up and run in!!

[Dasdubber]

Finally a little more progress was made (have been too busy renovating the house again)....

1/0 stinger hpm gauge cable was connected to the +ve terminal and inline fuse holder.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optima7_Jul4.sized.jpg

Negative and ground is all ready to go.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/optima8_Jul4.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Sub enclosure is finally bolted into position and sub connected.
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/sub1_Jul4.sized.jpg

The vinyl/paint combo turned out pretty nicely (in my opinion)
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/sub2_Jul4.sized.jpg

Hopefully some more progress soon...
http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album221/sub3_Jul4.sized.jpg

[Troy_Audio]

eh..just what I expected..
a FINE *** JOB!..
Peace Looks great
Troy
(Thanks For The Carb Info)

[alt+f4]

WOW!!! uh....WOW!!! You are Awsome man!! Ive never seen somebody take so much care when laying things out. Your Craftsmanship is Top notch!!



This car is going to be driven regularly? yes?

[Dasdubber]

WOW!!! uh....WOW!!! You are Awsome man!! Ive never seen somebody take so much care when laying things out. Your Craftsmanship is Top notch!!



This car is going to be driven regularly? yes?

Indeed it will be - not a daily driver but it will get a good flogging every weekend!

[alt+f4]

Great to hear man!!! Cars are made to be Driven!!

Too Beautifull of a car to just let sit on a trailer all its life anyways!

[Dasdubber]

I have finally finished the fuse panel wiring along with the battery - the last two wires (one to oil pressure sender and other to alternator) were also ran. Just a few to tidy up under the bonnet before the amps go in and wiring starts for them.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiringB_Jul20.sized.jpg

Also the 8.5mm silicon spark leads were connected (getting the lead from coil to firewall shortened currently). Now the carbs can go back on.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album228/wiringDJul20.sized.jpg

[volkdent]

Not that you don't already have your hands full, but have you considered the serpentine belt system for the alternator? I'm just not a fan (no pun) of the stock pulley system as you can get a lot of odd vibation from the belt and with a big fan they can slip.

Jason

[alt+f4]

The Serp system would also look really nice with how fit, trim, and clean everything else is!

[Dasdubber]

I did think about it but I wasn't aware there was a type IV crank pulley available in the serpentine system. Also the upright conversion I bought already came with this crank pulley, and with funds drying up fast I couldn't justify changing yet another change (have had too many changes already!!). :bawling:

[Troy_Audio]

Yeah man
on Shoptalk forums BMD has a sale post.. save some cash maybe you can get a 1off pully too to make your motor just a lil difrent like to whole car is..lol

I like mine.. lost 1 belt turns out It was not alined right but its all fine now..
Looks sick as hell man
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

I think I'll leave it for now (cash is required elsewhere!)...brakes are now hooked up and bled, doors readjusted and a few more wiring bits tidied up.

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album244/avw1_Jul24.sized.jpg

[barls]

hey das have you had the stereo running yet

[Dasdubber]

No haven't had the stereo running just yet (Can't wait to do so soon though!). I have to figure out how I am going to mount the distribution block and crossovers before I start cutting the wires (don't want to do a temporary install then have to rewire everything because I've changed location of the bits). I will hopefully get started on this side of things shortly.

[Troy_Audio]

Hey Alan,
Where you thinkin of mounting the Xover's & Distro block?
I was lookin at the pix seen you used the 10awg to the starter..
If you get any dimming in the lights you may try running 4awg to the Alt,Starter..
Just a thought
Looks great hope to see a pik of some rosted rear tires soon..

[Dasdubber]

Yeah I may very well upgrade the power to starter soon - just want to get it running first then sort out a few of the 'new car blues' as I go.

I am planning to install the distro block and crossovers on the left side of the amps. I haven't decided yet whether I will make them a feature in the fibreglass amp surround piece, or hide them under the surround. Becaue on the right side of the amps I want to have room for a fan (for screen demister) and/or tool box as I will undoubtably need it at some stage.

I may start working on that later this week or maybe next week.

[Dasdubber]

Time to start thinking of the amp surround - just brainstorming at the moment.

Tank went back in along with -4 breather line from filler neck. Wiring will be tidied up before being hidden behind amp surround (fibreglass).

http://www.netspot4u.com/~manxclub/albums/album244/amps_Jul25.sized.jpg

[Dasdubber]

The underbonnet area will be redesigned shortly as I have obtained a new amp - an Audio Service F4-600:

http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysite/easysite_images/twister_F4_600.jpg
http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysite/scheda3.asp?livello=3&Marchio=Audiosystem&Gamma=Twister&Modello=F4>600&pg=1


The two kenwood amps have been sold and rack will be reconfigured to house the distro block and crossovers. Work has been slow lately as we've moved house (to a different city)...so hopefully in a couple weeks work will resume and the f/g cover for the amp etc will be started.

[Kafer_Mike]

Dasdub, how difficult was it to remote mount the WSW fuse box under the rear seat? Did you have enough wire in the WSW kit or did you have to purchase extra? I was planning to do something similar with my car and would appreciate any tips you can provide.

[Dasdubber]

Very easy to mount it under the seat - I just made a MDF support box that was sikaflexed to the floor to mount it on. I only had to extend a couple of wires which wasn't hard. They give heaps of wire to allow for either an under bonnet or under seat mounting position. Makes it all pretty clean in my opinion.

[Dasdubber]

Anyway, now a few of the shows are over for a little while (picked up a number of awards which was great), got to get back to installing the Audio System F4-500 amp. The amp rack had to be redesigned for the new amp - mdf platforms will be used as a base for cover pieces to hide wiring etc.

Steel frame will be used to mount mdf skeleton over which fibreglass will be laid for some nice curves. Power distribution block and crossovers will also be integrated (still to finalise that part of the design!).

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack1Sep18.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack2Sep18.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack3Sep18.jpg

More pics to come once I get a bit more done!

[volkdent]

Looking good! I was wondering when you were going to get back on your system?!

Jason

[Dasdubber]

A little more progress on the amp rack - steel frame is tacked together (welds will be finished later) which will provide the base for mdf skeleton (over which f/g will be laid).

The piano hinge will allow access to amp controls and wiring (additional mdf will be used along with more f/g to tidy up the hinged cover piece).

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack4Sep22.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack5Sep22.jpg~original

[lazylongboarder]

What kind of sound are you looking for with this install?

I worked in car installation for a while at ultimate electronics.

I have a single Pioneer SPL2000 12'' competition sub that I had in my bug at the time hooked up to a BD1000 running it at 1 ohm gave it close to 1400 watts RMS and we hit 151.8 db's with the single sub in a slot ported box.

The only single sub that I know of that'll play that loud. It made me cry with feeling no emotion...only pain.

If anyone has heard 115 db's of bass, its too much.

When we played it in the install bay, it would shake my coffee mug in the office 300 feet away.

We also had an infinity Kappa perfect 12.1 in my bug with Infinity's 600 watt mono sub amp, Plenty of power with a nice clean hit.

The Pioneer sub was pretty much only when you want to listen to loud noises, not music aka little jon.

Everything looks great so far. Keep up the good lookin' work. Keep us posted.

[Dasdubber]

WOW - 151dB - that is f'ken huge!! I am more interested in SQ rather than pure SPL. This is my first real audio system so I have tried to keep it fairly simple whilst using as good quality components as possible (Within budget).

As is usually the case, plans have changed as I have progressed with the construction. Originally the little rounded skeleton pieces were going to be used as the frame over which fibreglass would be laid - however as I trial fitted them up I kinda liked the exposed look.

So I decided to use them as a highlight and add thin mdf to the inside to cover the amp controls and power/ground wires etc. The piano hinge allows easy access to the controls/fuses. The MDF will be painted in body colour with some carpet underneath.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack7Sep24.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack8Sep24.jpg~original

[volkdent]

That's going to look VERY nice. I'm really impressed with how artistic you've been with the whole thing, I tend to thing the same way. It will be a work of art when it's done, and I'm sure it will sound as good as it looks!

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Cheers Jason

Nothing too exciting today (I know you'll probably be getting sick of reading about this resto) :P

Started sorting out the carpet surrounding the amp rack etc - photo is pretty blurry but you get the idea. It will be all tidied up once the rack goes back in place (which will cover the dynaudio crossovers as well).


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack9Sep27.jpg~original

[Dasdubber]

Managed to finish up the carpet around the amp rack - not perfect but tidies it up quite nicely. Windscreen washer is finally hooked up and working.

Wiring from crossovers to splits is done (just have to wire amp to crossovers) - 1/0 gauge power cable will be routed to stinger distro block (to be mounted at top tier of rack in centre). 4 gauge will be routed to amp, and second run to small unfused distro block to provide power for the HU, and neon/s.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack10Sep28.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack11Sep28.jpg~original

[Troy_Audio]

Sup Dub
long time no post from me..
Your Bug is lookin as sick as ever..
You know the SPL cap for an SQ system is 135dB I think you can hit that no prob.. and with the Dyns in front you'll have no truble hearing anything..

Say what amp is that you had a Kenwood before..
& your router work ( or jig) is great..
hope your enjoying your New car..
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

Hey Troy - cheers mate. The amp is an Audio System F4-600 Twister series. It can supply 2 x 460W RMS @ 4ohm - here is a link to some details:
http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysite/scheda3.asp?livello=3&Marchio=Audiosystem&Gamma=Twister&Modello=F4>600&pg=1


Well, as if you hadn't figured already, this sort of thing takes a lot of time!

First the base for the top tier was cut from mdf and edges routed. The hole up the top is just to provide some back lit illumination through the plastic Stinger distribution block (from underneath the base).

Second pic shows the amp and its ridged cover plate (hinged for access to amp controls), along with distro block in place.

Last pic shows the 'bones' which will form the shape of the upper tier - these will be secured in place via hot glue then fabric stretched over them to which the fibreglass can be applied. Hopefully more to come soon.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack12Oct3.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack13Oct3.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack14Oct3.jpg~original

[Troy_Audio]

Madness..
Should look Way Killer when your finished..
I like the Idea of lighting the distro block.. that should look sick..
Take'n your time is what gets you a car like yours..
Very nice man
cant wait to see it on the cover of
Volksworld,Hot VW,ext ext...
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

today the f/g work started finally on the upper tier. The skeleton pieces were hot glued in place and then fabric stretched over...couple coats of resin were applied to stiffed it all up to get ready for the f/g matt (this week some time).


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack15Oct9.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/Dasdubber/amprack16Oct9.jpg~original

[Dasdubber]

All the images I had attached were down for quite some time, but finally the gallery is back up and running again (although because the links have changed the images still won't be visible in this thread) - but here is the new link to see all the pics from start to finish (well almost finished):

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album95?page=1

[Dasdubber]

Slowly but surely the amp rack progress continues. When painting fibreglass (rather than carpeting or vinyling it), a lot more time has to be spent to get it spot on.

There have been about 8 layers (most of which gets sanded off) of filler applied to get the desired shape. Lots of sanding thats for sure! Hopefully will have it high build primer then colour soon.

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack17_Oct16.jpg

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack18_Oct16.jpg

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack19_Oct16.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Well I pulled my finger out and shot a couple coats of high build primer this arvo. Overall pretty happy with the prep - only a couple of areas that will need a bit of glaze putty. Took ages to sand between the ribs on the hinged cover piece - pain in the ar$e but should be worth it once it is finally finished!

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack20_Oct16.jpg

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack21_Oct16.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Well, finally got a few more coats of high build primer with lots of sanding and more glaze filler (to fill sanding scratches) in between. Then came the base coat (three coats - first light, second medium and final dust coat to lay the metallic down evenly):

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack22_Oct25.jpg

Then two coats of clear (both medium - wet on wet) - wanted to try and obtain some decent flow to avoid having to colour sand it all. Turned out pretty well although pics don't do it real justice.

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack23_Oct25.jpg

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack24_Oct25.jpg

[samcat]

Shaking my head in disbelief!

As always, SUPERB craftsmanship!


Keep up the good work.

Sam C

[Dasdubber]

Cheers Sam - I'm lovin the progress on your car too!

Well finally the painted amp rack/cover tier is bolted in place - four M8 S/S button head bolts holds the upper tier frame in place....and the lower rack is screwed onto the MDF support blocks. The rack was designed so that I could access the fuses easily and amp controls...also with four screws the lower amp rack comes out easily to access wiring underneath.

I would have liked to incorporate some vinyl into the upper tier but didn't have any to match the interior, nor the time to modify it further. Ran out of time tonight to get the system running (just have to crimp the last 4 gauge power/ground connections....then hopefully it will fire to life to blow off the cobwebs!

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack25_Nov1.jpg

Depending on the light/flash, the colour takes quite a different appearance.
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack26_Nov1.jpg

[Dasdubber]

Like any install there are some things I would have done differently, but hey, thats learning....hindsight is a wonderful thing....still turned out pretty well (in my opinion)
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack27_Nov1.jpg

The neons backlight the upper tier (all are fused of course and switched).
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack29_Nov1.jpg

The cutout in the upper tier allows backlighting of the distro block as well - and just in case anyone asks, the middle fuse is just there because it looked funny with just two...also its there handy in case either of the other two blow.
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/albums/album17/amprack30_Nov1.jpg

[volkdent]

Have you heard it yet? Does the interior need some sound deadening?
Absolutely awesome mate!

Jason

[NO_H2O]

Looks great :agree:

[Dasdubber]

Yeah it has finally been fired up! The dyns certainly have lived up to expectations - they go damn loud and still maintain their sound quality very well. I put heaps of sound deadening in during the install (dynamat and stinger roadkill) so that has worked quite effectively - still have to fine tune the amp and HU settings though.

Pity when the type IV roars to life, the exhaust note along with the noisy holley blue pump overshadow the sweet sounds....but I guess the exhaust is kinda a sweet sound anyway!

[zen]

you have way more patients than myself. the big reason i could never be a body and paint guy. top notch work as usual. you have one unique car. i would love to see a feature article on the site about it. if interested, start pulling together the info and pics and get with me to get it posted. i can assist with editing.

[Dasdubber]

Cheers thanks Zen, sorry for the late reply - haven't been online as much lately. I have all the info in a word document (had to do a big spec write up for an upcoming magazine feature) - also I have a link to the website where all my pics are loaded. I'd love to see it up on here as a feature article! If you'd like the tech info, let me know your email address.

http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album95

Thanks
Alan

[volkdent]

Hey Alan,

Are we done yet? How many little details are left?

It's so awesome to go through the process on the Manx page from start to finish. I can't imagine how many thousands of hours went into it.

Where did you get your windshield washer container from? Does it have a built in pump, or is that separate? I have one from an old Subaru right now, but that looks pretty trick.

Jason

[Dasdubber]

Hey Jason, cheers for the compliments - yep many many hours as I am sure you can appreciate with the build of your awesome Beetle (looking great!).

Windshield washer has integral pump - easy to install and wire up. From CB Performance:

http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1280

The only thing left to do on the Beetle is sort out free play in steering box (have tried adjusting but no success - may need a rebuild/replacement)....and continue tuning the engine. The more I drive it though, the sooner I want to pull it down and add a decent cam....and maybe bigger p&c's....and maybe some head work......and maybe.....you get the idea!

Alan