Oval GL coming together

[nbturbo]

Finally,after about 4 years it's starting to happen.I am running a 2.7lt Type 4 with 48mm Webers (but will be injected B4 it goes on the road) Made a stainless muffler similar to an original with 2x65mm tail pipes out of the original holes.Have IRS'd the pan and modified it to fit an auto trans from a Type 3. Running weld in adjusters up front and 4 wheel discs with 17X7 up front and 17X8 at the back.May be able to fit 18X9's on the back yet.Will see after the rear guards are on. I am using Aero Guards all round ( locally made using the original 6 volt headlights,but use the big tailights)I wanted to fit a Superbug engine cover with the 4 slots, so the engine could get all the air possible,and needed more room for the exhaust,so welded in a late fuel injected rear panel.I have had all new glass for it(except the Oval)with all the side glass made with the tint in the glass and a laminated/tinted front screen.The headlining has been done in an original looking fabric,but is grey in colour.The front buckets came from a Mitsubishi Starion and I am having them and the rear done in black leather.I am doing this one to be a sort of twin to my Turbo NB.Same colours used thru out with seats/trim etc.

[nbturbo]

That speedo is an original European KPH,which I have had modified with a MPH gear set and recalibrated and fitted the small MPH sticker.Wanted to keep the early look speedo,and also have a fuel guage.I cut the sunroof from a rusted out 66 and after 12 months,finally got a panel beater to help me graft it in.It works like a new one.With the pan,I had to shift the horns out 50mm each side to get the auto to fit and still be strong enough.I welded gussets inside the horns,but am making a Kafer type brace as well to tie in to the shock towers.

[Soul]

Nice work! I like the speedometer mod, I was going to do something like that with the speedo in my oval.

[Rob]

Wow, very nice.
I'm seriously impressed with all the fabrication you did, looks very nice.

If you don't mind me asking, why did you go with an automatic ?

Rob.

[Supa Ninja]

Thats looking good...what kind of exhaust is that?

[Massive Type IV]

Ask Zen about the time he tried to let "looks" cool his engine....... :p

[nbturbo]

As I said-wanted to make something similar to the NB-which is an 03 turbo with auto and sunroof and they are nearly 50 years apart.When I started this I had a list of must haves-big horsepower motor,auto trans and air conditioning.The air is not going to happen because of the fan set up,but I was determined to go auto.When I bought this engine,it had been raced hard in a single seat buggy with a FAT shroud and a big external cooler.(now running all Sharpbuilt stuff and machined the breather tower)I stripped the thing right down,and apart from some rough clearancing inside the case,it was in very good condition.The heads had 48 and 38 valves and only needed a freshen up-everything was like new.I got another case and clearanced it properly,had everything balanced and crack tested and changed the ****ty wild cam and put in new rings and bearings.Had to get a 210 flywheel because it had a 228 with a pressure plate that only Arnold could operate.I am using the original oil cooler as well as a sandwich plate to an extra fan assist cooler.I made all the exhaust using the stubs from the original FAT buggy pipes,and bought some bends and made the engine pipes.I had some flanges profile cut so I could use original Type4 gaskets.The muffler and pipes are from stainless.I had 2 half cicles rolled with 10mm lips to give me a 61/2 inch tube when welded together.Run 4 perforated pipes inside to ech opposite end and run the tailpipes out thru the original cutouts.It's still a little loud,so will make the tailpipes into mufflers like the originals.I had to do a cutout to clear the crank pulley and welded in the bung for the O2 sensor.The muffler hung a little low when finished and looked like a set of dog's nuts hanging out in shiny stainless-so had the whole lot ceramic coated in matt black-not so obvious now. It will only get an occasional Sunday run,so should be up for all I can throw at it.I had this 2700 badge laser cut in aluminium and the style is as close as they could do to copy the original VW 1300 script.I had to hand finish the edges,then had the 3 of them coated in 24ct gold for something a little different.

[Racelook]

Nice project!!!

When I'm honest the look of the fenders with the earlie bumpers is :( The same with the late rear-valance... but it's al done for the working of the motor/car and not only for the looks.. so that's why I can appreciate it.

Suc6

WIebrand

[nbturbo]

thanks for your comments.

[nbturbo]

Got my newly painted pan back,so started to assemble to do final fit up with some items B4 I pull the auto to get it rebuilt.Have to do the trans dipstick and making a brace from the horns to the shock towers.

[bean_8044]

Your pedals are on the wrong side!! :eek:

Looks pretty good :agree:

[nbturbo]

If they were on the other side-my legs aren't long enough to reach them.Not much progress-still waiting on doors and guards.Found an old pic when I first put it all together to check fit of everything

[nbturbo]

Got both doors and both lids back-fitted the front and rear seals and fitted the lids and adjusted-all fit OK.Fitted some badges as well.Cut the hole in the parcel tray to make a removeable panel to clear the auto and to get at the front band adjuster.

[nbturbo]

Got some more bits back-so fitted up the rear guards and lights.

[oicdn]

God...that is sexy in so many ways.....

[zen]

looking really good. keep them coming.

[tommi_nylund]

Oval with elephant foot rear lights, latest rear apron and latest engine lid....... Oh god....

Even though your car is oval with 'different' style (and everything you can´t see outside is also made with extreme care) and no matter how much I´ve look those pictures I still can´t like it.

But I think here are people who love your car even I dont! :agree: :cool:

[oasis]

But I think here are people who love your car even I dont!
I like it. A lot. It pulls (or is it pools?) a lot of seemingly conflicting styles together very nicely.

[nbturbo]

Fitted the fronts as well-will wire everything up-then lift it onto the pan.

[nbturbo]

Put the body back on the pan yesterday.Got away with using a felt sling thru the door openings and and it balanced really good.With all the cutting and welding I did to fit the auto,and only using an old body section for a guide,I had the rear of the motor 15mm too low and 6mm offset to the right.Can easily modify the mounts I made that bolt up to bellhousing to correct this.I am really happy with how it all fits and looks.

[oasis]

Put the body back on the pan yesterday...I am really happy with how it all fits and looks.
Gee, I guess so! ;) Fantastic! :agree:

[Tony Z]

all I can say is "WOW"

[choconito]

Very Good Job

Please tell me what is the color code of the yellow,
I have a Bug 1600 F.I. (Fuel Injection) from México and your color bug is perfect for my project.

Thanks, and sorry for my english.

Viva México Ca.....balleros.

[brent]

Like ovals very nice sir! Brent.

[nbturbo]

the colour is Double Yellow-the same as my 02 NB Beetle in the Avatar.I am doing the Oval to have some features like the NB-same colour inside as well with the grey trims and black leather seats and have found 17inch wheels that look similar.

[nbturbo]

When I did the inside,I found a Velour fabric the same colour as the NB,but it looks very similar to the original Oval fabric.I have fitted 2 interior lights from an NB as well as the passenger grab handle and the sunglasses holder.When I fitted the sound system,the only place I could get the small speakers was up in the headlining-so I made some aluminium brackets that screwed to the sunroof brackets under the trim, and just have to push the speakers into the holes.

[nbturbo]

Got the handbrake finished-had to make some extension tubes to lengthen the original tubes in the pan-I had to reposition these when I modified the pan for the auto,and didn't know how long they would need to be-I was too short by 85mm-all works OK now.Finally finished the auto dip stick tube.I took ages to decide where to actually make it fit-decided to bring it into the engine bay.Had to make it 100mm longer to get it in and at the correct angle.Shortened a dipstick from an auto Kombi and scribed new level marks.Have made the dipstick an airtight fit in the tube to prevent any fluid being blown into the engine bay-will weld an 8mm tube high up on the outer tube and fit a filter and drain pipe to vent any fluid out behind the LH back wheel.Now it's back on the ground,I think I will lift the back one spline,then align the rear wheels.I have all the VW tools to line up the back wheels.

[LLVWGL]

the workmanship on that car is top notch!!!


It is a love it/hate it type of look, but i think you achieved your goal perfectly.

[oasis]

Thanks for the continuing updates. I find it really fascinating. It makes me ready for my next GL project (if I live long enough). :)

[nbturbo]

I entered 4 of my cars in a local 'Car Show' last weekend.Have been waiting to get my 2 yellow VW's together for a long time.Put my Ford ute in as well-they had a 'Family catagory'.

[Accordion]

Are those widened fiberglass fenders? If so, where did you get them?

[AusSuper]

guards are an aussie thing called "aero look" from vintage vw in sydney, they have a website but i cant remember it, checkout www.aussieveedubbers.com there should be a link for their site on there somewhere full set is something around $1000AUD last time i checked tho hope this helps

[nbturbo]

Just an update-when I fitted the 2 doors,I couldn't get them to sit or close properly-tried everything except bringing in the hydraulic gear.Had to be careful not to damage the paint.Any how I gave up on them,and found another 2 from an Oval,but they had been modified for 1 piece windows(which I didn't want).I have pulled the hinges apart and bent them so the doors fit and close properly.Something must have moved during the sunroof fitting,because the originals fitted perfectly B4 it went to the body shop.I have sent the new doors away to be paint stripped and they are now ready to be picked up.Have also had the Auto away getting reconditioned and had the front clutch hub machined to take an extra disc,the convertor has been tweeked and the prssures have been raised.The trans is also finished,so I have to make a trip to pick it all up( 1,000kms round trip)While I have been waiting for it all,I have started my next car-a drag Beetle which I will make into a Ute style body.Have bought an Autocraft 2.6lt motor with Methanol injection and the Auto craft dry sump system.Have just finished making the exhaust for it-made it all sit on top of the motor because it won't need any cooling system and it won't get in the way of the 3 stage oil pump,ends up with a 3inch outlet.Just changing the throttle arms to something more simple than the originals-useing a Type3 pivot and made new rods like a Type3.Have started on the pan-will use a link pin pan and have cut the torsion tubes and centre spine from another just in front of the gear change,and will weld that on top of my pan- so will make the wheel base 4inches longer and raise the torsion bar tubes and trans up 2inches.Will post some pics when I start welding it all together.http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/8605/drag3sm8hw.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drag3sm8hw.jpg) http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/3928/drag12sm1zo.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drag12sm1zo.jpg) http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/8038/drag1sm1jl.th.jpg (http://img133.imageshack.us/my.php?image=drag1sm1jl.jpg)

[nbturbo]

Finally got the motor and trans back in and have driven it in the yard-feels very responsive.All the extra wiring needed for the auto is done-fitted a kickdown switch on the centre throttle pivot,wired the neutral start and reverse lights with a loom I run along side the interior brake pipe(looks neat and will be hidden under the carpet) I made an aluminium panel and fitted a starter button just behind the gear shifter.I modified a later short handbrake lever so I had some more room here.Pulled the shifter out again and took it apart-needed to bend the lever-when it was in Park,the lever was too far forward and hard to reach.Made it sit vertical in Park and it's good now.Drilled and tapped the 4 manifolds for small vacuun lines for the auto's modulator valve and run them into a common line.At this stage I am still using the Type1 CV's,will have to see how they handle the job.Still running with the Webers at the moment-just want to get it going and drive it B4 fitting the fuel injection.Have just bought myself a TIG welder,so may make everything again out of Aluminium.Have reset the rear suspension and lifted the front a little as well-I'm happy with it now.http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/2014/auto482hw.th.jpg (http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=auto482hw.jpg) http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/1624/auto471as.th.jpg (http://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=auto471as.jpg) http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2093/auto464fb.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=auto464fb.jpg) http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2883/auto459bs.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=auto459bs.jpg)

[vwdmc16]

Man this is truely a top 3 modfied VW i've seen. I love it, mixing all the modern with classic style.
keep it up

[56oval]

the aero,s look great ,I noticed how you moved the pivot point in on the rear trailing arms what size wheels & tyres are you running it would also help with track.I,m looking at making a new trans mount for the 915 ,what rubber mount did you use the whole thing looks rock solid.
cheers malcolm

[ricola]

the aero,s look great ,I noticed how you moved the pivot point in on the rear trailing arms what size wheels & tyres are you running it would also help with track.I,m looking at making a new trans mount for the 915 ,what rubber mount did you use the whole thing looks rock solid.
cheers malcolm

I think you'll find he has moved the framehorns out to make space for the auto trans, not moved the IRS mounts in..
Rich

[nbturbo]

Yes-I moved the horns out 50mm(2 inches) each side to allow the auto to fit between them.I also cut the sides out of the horns and welded extra stiffeners inside each one.Also made a Kafer type brace to stiffen the whole back end up.I used front engine mounts from a V8 Chrysler for bellhousing mounts and Toyota 4 wheel drive spring shackle rubbers for the front mount.There are plenty of different rubber mounts to choose from.I have driven it down a dirt side lane here( about 500 metres) and the thing is just awesome.The only fault with the mounts I used is that they are too solid and I feel a lot of the harshness from the engine being transferred into the car.When the car is idling and I give the throttle a good boot-the whole body rocks sideways with the torque from motor.I have also used the Bus rear bar mounted solid to the body with the original rubber insulators between the motor and the bar.In hindsight,I should have used mounts from some 4 cylinder car.I have got the seats away at the moment getting done in black leather in the same style as my New Beetle.I have been far too busy with work to spend enough time to finally get it finished.Have got pissed off with the Webers trying to get a decent mixture reading at idle-so have pretty much decided to fuel inject it now.Have found some new locally made throttle bodies for a reasonable price.I have purchased a new 2 post car hoist for my shed-really clever-wait until the car is almost finished,then buy a hoist.I got sick off sliding around on my back under the car trying to refit everything.Will be useful for my next projects though.Also bought a new lathe to replace the one I had that came off Noah's Ark.[img=http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/487/lathe19pk.th.jpg] (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lathe19pk.jpg)Will post up some more pics soon when I have some more progress.

[beetlebum2]

WOW all i can say really,

y an automatic tranny?

[nbturbo]

YNOT? Dare to try something different.

[beetlebum2]

good point im guessin its not a stock auto. how hard its it to prep a 30yr old auto for that much brake horse power?

[nbturbo]

Sent the trans to a Bloke who does a lot for drag cars.I know he machined the front clutch hub to take more discs and the convertor has been tricked up.He also played with the pressure system.The weak links at this stage are the Beetle CV joints-will see how they stand up to the tourque and the trans has no take off ports to add an external oil cooler.

[nbturbo]

Still in progress-seats are finally done-took over 6 months to get done.The rest of the car is finished-carpets/door trims/stereo system etc.Have started to fit the fuel injection.Using 2 x 48mm throttle bodies locally made and all the controls are Delco from a locally made 4 cyl car.Making new throttle rods and fuel rails.Done a fair bit to my drag car as well-finished welding the pan-ended up making it 100mm longer and 100mm lower.Cut out the rear floor pans and made a flat floor right thru.The roll cage is in and finished and I have cut the body ready to remove the rust and make the whole rear panel so it screws on.Will make the back ute panels out of thin aluminium and it will also just clip on.I have cut 70mm from the front beam and fitted 1 adjuster,but will probably weld in another to try and get it lower.Have got dropped spindles on it but can't get it down level with the back.

[nbturbo]

some of my Drag Car

[nbturbo]

A couple more

[oasis]

The Oval looks outstanding; the dragster is coming along nicely. Beautiful work. :agree: :agree:

[elroocky]

Kool stuff, I like you're rear lid enblem, where did you get that..?

[nbturbo]

The VWautomatic came from a Kombi and the 2700 I had laser cut from aluminium.I took in a 1300 badge from a 66 Beetle and that was the nearest font they could find.I hand finished it to resemble the 1300 badge,then had them all coated in 24c gold.

[nbturbo]

Done some more on the Oval-progressing with the injection.Made new throttle rods and doing the fuel rails.Using some extruded aluminium with small hats to go over the O rings on the injector ends.Couldn't find any fittings to screw into the rail,so machined up some Ally plugs and welded them into the rail.Can now thread them 1/4 gas.Drilled and threaded one T/B below the butterfly for the air temp sensor.Have to find a place for the one that will be in the oil.Have machined a Volvo 244 distributor and fitted a VW drive tang.It looks like a 009 and takes the same cap.Will T into the vacuum line going to the Auto for the MAP sensor and will make an adaptor the fit the TPS switch-a job for tomorrow.

[nbturbo]

Have got it running but having issues getting the idle fuel map correct.We have manage good readings thru the rest of the rev range,but can't get the idle A/F ratio low enough.Ended up buying a TPS switch that fits the T/Body and is adjustable-just needed to redrill the holes in the T/Body to get the idle voltage correct.Mounted the temp sensor in the blanking plate that goes over the original Type4 fuel pump mount-not in the oil but getting plenty splashed onto it.The ECU I am using is Delco which needs a good idle vacuum reading-which I don't have because of a mild cam and dual 48mm throttle bodies.Initially we thought we could get around this,but not so because the vacuum is too low and fluctuates badly.I have now made a small vacuum canister and put one way check valves in the 4 lines and it now idles at 12'' HG and is very stable.The poor vacuum was also no good for the fuel pressure reg or the modulator on the Auto Trans.I was running 20.5 Lbs/hour injectors and have changed them to 18.25 Lbs/hour and it's running real sweet with just the normal 4 cylinder chip.Waiting for the bloke to come to do a new chip for it which should be an easy one for him now.If it is still slightly out,can do a fine tune by using the TPS switch for an idle signal as well.I had to make some new airfilter bases because they had to be offset to clear the fuel rails.Milled them out of some 6mm ally and used my original Weber filters and tops.The first fuel rails didn't work(my first effort with the TIG)because I didn't put enough weld on each end and they leaked.I had the fuel pressur reg in the end of one rail,but it was a pain to fit and not leak,so I machined an alloy block and fitted under the car directly into the return line.I have the MAP sensor under the car as well,so all the vacuum lines are out of sight. I will put the small alloy vacuum canister under there as well if it all works OK.When I made the next fuel rails,they got plenty of weld and I pressure tested each one with 110PSI in a bucket of water-all good now.http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/6291/inj22wk9.th.jpg (http://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=inj22wk9.jpg)http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/347/inj24gs4.th.jpg (http://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=inj24gs4.jpg)http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/5382/inj23tt8.th.jpg (http://img478.imageshack.us/my.php?image=inj23tt8.jpg)

[nbturbo]

Oh-got the seats back as well from the trimmer-didn't turn out too bad I suppose.Ended up using all the original seats and I sent him pics of my NB's seats for him to copy the trimming pattern using the perforated leather on all the facings.He has padded them up a bit too much because when I sit in the back seat my head touches the roof because the whole rear headlining is much lower with the sunroof cavity( from memory about 40mm lower) I still haven't finished putting the fronts back together.Have stripped and polished the alloy back rest adjuster knobs and made some small blank panels that clip to the lower frames so you can't see in under the seats.The white dots in the leather are just how the light catches the holes in the pic.The original plastic knobs on the seat slide adjusters are a bit RS-so i will machine some Ally ones with a grub screw to hold them on.--------- http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/5149/seat2ij1.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=seat2ij1.jpg)http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6454/seat3zy5.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=seat3zy5.jpg)

[zeroaxe]

Geesh, first tile I see this thread and I must say that I am gobsmacked at all the work that has gone into this car! Nice work and glad to see progress :agree:

[Wally]

.I was running 20.5 Lbs/hour injectors and have changed them to 18.25 Lbs/hour and it's running real sweet with just the normal 4 cylinder chip.

18/20 lbs-h seems really too little low, unless you use twin injectors of these...
A good 2,7 needs about 40 lbs injectors or 400 to 450 cc per min. I run 500cc´s and they could be smaller, tho it works well at the moment.

[vwrx]

Sensational car dude!

Seeing stuff like this gives me even more ideas for my 56 oval...hmm

[nbturbo]

Thanks-have got another Bloke coming this weekend to have a go at setting the ECU.If still no good,will buy a Haltec ECU and a laptop and do it myself.

[nbturbo]

Finally driving it.Bought a Haltec ECU and spent about 8 hours trying to get it running-had no success-only managed to burn out a couple of the Auto starter motors, winding it over to try and get it to fire up.Gave up and took the car to a bloke in Adelaide,a Haltec agent.I left it there for a week and he got it running like a dream.The 20lb injectors are right on the limit and he has set the rev limit at 6200 because it doesn't make any more power after that.It's limited by the crappy muffler I made and the very mild camshaft I fitted.I am trying to run the motor in a bit,but it has unbelievable pulling power from the lights and the auto is unreal how it snaps into each gear when I push it a bit hard.The auto starters are a bit crappy in the design area-the front bush behind the pinion is only 9mm wide and very thin and I was flogging out the bushes fairly quickly by winding it over a lot.I ordered a High Torque starter from CIP1 in the US and it was here in less than a week-unreal service.I have since changed the exhaust to a set of extractors I made some years back and managed to squeeze a muffler behind the drivers side rear wheel-a little on the loud side at idle but OK while driving.Seems to go a fair bit better,but will get it back on the dyno next time I take the car to Adelaide.Couldn't be more pleased with the power and how it drives.Need to run the motor in a bit,then will try it on the 1/8th mile track here.

[nbturbo]

Heres a pic of how the auto fits in between the modified frame horns.

[nbturbo]

I have finally finished my car.I was having a lot of trouble starting the thing and with some confusion between myself and the ECU tuner,he finally understood what was happening.As I was cranking it over,the motor was locking up while the starter was engaged and was wrecking the starters.I knew it was going into some kind full spark advance and trying to backfire.Any way he has it sorted now by fitting an ignition module and coil from a V8 Holden and timing it differently so it stays at 0 advance until it is running.I had some whitewalls grooved into the tyres and have been to 3 car shows with it and have done really well.

[effvee]

Hi, I need a set of those rear fenders. Are they two inch extra wide? Where did you buy them? Do you have a web site for the fenders. Also concerning your trans, in third gear at approx 80 mph, what rpm are you at?

[nbturbo]

The rear guards are only about 20mm wider than stock.They are the Aero Guards from Vintage VeeDub in Sydney in Aus.I have only just had the Tacho properly calibrated to suit the output from the ECU and have only driven it around town here(the speed limit is only 50KPH)but will get it out soon to test it for you.