915 clutch activation

[Hoghead]

I have read the archives and if anything am still confused on how to deal with the 915 clutch release problem.
I already have a Suby/915 KEP adapter and 911 clutch.

Hydraulic or mechanical?

Is there a shopping list of parts to do this, or better yet a kit?

[wrenchnride247]

If you have "push" type clutch fork you can use the cable on a rear engine set-up. If you have a late model "pull" type 915, you can't use the cable without major mods to exit location of tube out of tunnel, or longer cable. If this is a mid engine set-up you might be able to use the late model with stock cable.

I'm going the hydaulic route with a aircooled.net set-up that replaces the stock cable system. This will prove to be easier than cable for me.

[Hoghead]

I am leaning to hydraulic as it looks easier but I am still not clear on if this is a simple mod.

I read in the archives somewhere that lever arm ratio needs to be modified to get sufficent stroke, arms flipped, etc.

Is there a definitive method statement on how to hydraulic the 915 clutch?

[Wally]

Is there a shopping list of parts to do this, or better yet a kit?
Nope, and believe me I've looked everywhere. Not even bugat5speed got the conversion covered for a type 4 engine. If you have a suboeroe thingy engine beheind the 915, then yes I believe so as they have experience with that.

[Hoghead]

Martin Bott tells me that he can do the clutch activation but uses a host of different parts. I have however bought his 915 mounting kit.
As I already have the KEP kit and 911 clutch I would like to use what I have.

If no canned solution, is there a method statement on how to do it using the Saco/Aircooled.net hydraulic kit?

[wrenchnride247]

Martin Bott tells me that he can do the clutch activation but uses a host of different parts. I have however bought his 915 mounting kit.
As I already have the KEP kit and 911 clutch I would like to use what I have.

If no canned solution, is there a method statement on how to do it using the Saco/Aircooled.net hydraulic kit?How long before you need to do this? I'm using the aircooled.net set-up (as stated before). I will have pic's and parts needed to do this soon.

[Hoghead]

I am maybe 2 months away from doing this.

The current need is to buy the parts by the end of July while I am here in Canada and carry them back to Thailand.

[wrenchnride247]

I would go ahead and get the conversion kit from aircooled. That takes alot of guess work out of parts searching, and it bolts to stock pedal assy (with access hole cut on passenger side of tunnel). The hard part will be finding a good spot to mount slave cylinder (which is not that hard), and mounting brackets. In two months I better be working on mine...

[Wally]

Here's a pic of my Saco clutch slave side and 915:

http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/54864.jpg

http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/54865.jpg

It needs a heat shield (ask me how I know..) from the header, replacement of the remaining rubber oil hose and mounting brackets are not visible clearly, but you get the idea hopefully.

Walter

[Hoghead]

OK will buy the hydraulic kit now, and look forward to hearing how it goes for you.

Hope it fits my RHD pedal set?

[wrenchnride247]

You might want ask about the RHD set-up (didn't know you need RHD). The mounting plate for the master has nuts welded to it (on the wrong side for you) Also the inlet and outlet are on that same side on the master cylinder. If a new mounting plate is made for RHD the master should be able to be "flipped" to clear inside the tunnel since the conector rod needs to line-up with stock clutch arm. I would talk to Aircooled about it...

[tomac]

I'm using a 915/06 with a limited slip. Activation is done by cable pull style. Using a 228 Kennedy stage 1 pressure plate, Alfa Romeo 164 disc (yes they fit on 915 tranny and cost 30 €:angry: :cool: :eek: ). We reversed the 915 shift fork put a original bug throw out bearing on it and use a original bug gearbox lever. Flywheel is 228 bus with VW rabit II bearing. CV joints I'm using from a 911 SC fine spine since I use a 993 LSD. This will fit again to 944 axles. All is working nice even so I may go hydraulic like Walter over the winter.

[Steve C]

Hi tomac

That's looks interesting. Do you have any larger pictures?

Steve

[Sandeep]

Tomac,

Great information here. I have currently purchased a 915/62 and will be using my 228mm Bus FW/PP but will need a new clutch as the splines will not match. You mentioned 'Original bug gearbox lever' .. are you refering to the clutch activation arm on the T1 gearbox or the original bug shifter in the passenger compartment ?

Wally et al with hydraulic clutch,

How does the hydraulic clutch feel compared to a cable operated clutch ? What are the reasons to go hydraulic if a cable solution can be worked out ? I haven't received the gearbox yet but perhaps these answers will become aparent when I can physically see the box.

Thanks

Sandeep

[tomac]

Hi Steve C,
if you send me a pm with your emai I can provide you with better quality pictures of my setup.

Sandeep,
yes I refer to the cluch activaton arm of a T-1. I would like to go hydraulic because I expect a better feel of the activation and not that horrible squeeky sound my cable produces.

By the way I'm using a hi torque imi-101 starter. You just need to chop of 5mm of the base plate and it fits perfect.:angry: :D :eek:

Tomac

[Sandeep]

Thanks for the clarification Tomac.

I can download the thumbnails and zoom in with windows XP ... the detail level is fine for me.

Sandeep

[Wally]

Exellent info TomAirCooled ;-)
München right?

Sandeep: I didn't want the hoorible experience some had with trying to fit a cable clutch...
It just seemed an easier installation, thats it. It wasn't, but that s s/th else..
It works fine now tho. A cylinder trowout-hydraulic bearing (annular?) would be the ultimate and I am still tring to find a solution for that option.

[Steve C]

Hi tomac

I did what Sandeep said and blew them up.

I'm fitting a G50 and I already have a Saab hydraulic slave cylinder and throughout race, but I've been thinking about using the G50 lever and reversing it and using a Beetle through out bearing. I'm using a 200 mm Beetle clutch.

Steve

[Wally]

Hi Steve,

What did you blow up? the 915 ? :shocked:

[Steve C]

Hi

I blew it up alright, all over my computer screen, what a mess, but no cost to fix.:)

Steve

[Sandeep]

:lmao:

Especially the pic of the TOB .. it blowed up real good .... :D

Sandeep

[Wally]

Next time I 'll try say s/th nasty/funny about watercooling :p

[aircool]

Tomac, I wish I had known the Alfa clutch plate would fit the Porsche box! I would like to know a little more about the throw out bearing though.

I like you have flipped the arm (outside the gearbox) over but a beetle bearing will not fit over the bit casting around the input shaft of my gearbox. Articles I have read about fitting a 901 box suggest you can bolt the beetle part on but mine is part of the gearbox casting.

The only bearing I can make fit is the Porsche one and that doesn't work with the type 1 pressure plate. This is the last real headache I have regarding installation of my box, any help would be most appreciated.

[tomac]

Aircool,
you are using a 901 or a 915? If it is cast material you need a different solution. I have seen some early 915's that have the same problem and people tend to go with the original Porsche setup.

[aircool]

Tomac

Yeah I'm using a 915, it is part of the casting. When you say original Porsche setup do you mean friction plate, pressure plate and throw out bearing from a Porsche? If so do I need a special flywheel to get that lot to work?

[tomac]

Aircool,
I would try to sell this one you have since it is pretty rare. Believe it is a 915/02 out of 72/73 cars. I got a 915/06 where there is a part that is shrik fitted. The later ones use 2 screws. With the original setup I mean Porsche pull style clutch.:mad: