Down and out in 2008

[Sandeep]

Hi Guys,

Looks like I will not be able to make any 2008 dates for shows / meets with the beetle :bawling:

I've been meaning to replace the floor pans and heater channels as the rust has been getting worse every year. My motor build is behind schedule so I've made the decision to pull the insurance for a year and get this fixed properly.

I've got the tools and will be doing the work myself, I've ordered the Bug-Me DVD's to help so hopefully I can get it right the first time.

I'll try to make some shows with the Honda and show some support ... its looking like 2008 is THE YEAR to be rolling (Thanks to Lanner) as there are many VW related activities planned.

Maybe we can have a meet at my place ... a "raise the body off the pan" meet ... I've got a BBQ and a patio in the back .... :D Would be cool to have the front yard covered in VW's ...:lmao:

Later

Sandeep

[gonebuggy]

Sandeep,

Sounds like a plan! Floors and channels aren't too bad if you take your time. I've done em both! if you need a hand just holler! and if you need any tools just let me know, I got 'em all!

Let's get Sandeep rollin!

Alex

[chug_A_bug]

hey Sandeep that's To bad but like Alex Said it's that that hard of a Job to do the Floors and channels I have a 110 welder if ya Need and other Fab and Body Tools too. I'm Down for A BBQ and pullen a body off the pan lol

I know you Said you were Behide but have you gotten a Chance to take Some pics and Measurements for that 901 I'm ready to pull the motor and tran this Weekend coming,

Soo Common guys Lets help him out

Chris.

[flat]

Too bad bro, we'll miss the yellow monster.

Fire up the grill, burn some meat and I'm there. But that theory can turn on you.... I had a BBQ/pond digging party a few years back. I have nasty clay in the backyard, and digging is a killer. Well, all the boys and girls showed up, had a good meal, a few drinks...a good time all around. BUT, the festivities monopolized the schedule, and one (yes one) guy actually grabbed a shovel..... Still was fun though :)

BTW: Anyone need any pond goldfish? These guys are worst than bunnies...

Lanner

[petevw]

Booo that sucks, i'll miss it. Was watching the compilation clip on youtube yesterday.

I'll help pull the body.

My suggestion, keep the beers locked. I have a fridge in the garage. When people come by to help, they help themselves to the fridge, and we talk BS while nothing gets done. I will be installing a padlock on the fridge very soon. :lmao:

Lanner, I'll take some Goldfish. The pond isn't opened yet.

Pete

[gonebuggy]

Booo that sucks, i'll miss it. Was watching the compilation clip on youtube yesterday.

I'll help pull the body.

My suggestion, keep the beers locked. I have a fridge in the garage. When people come by to help, they help themselves to the fridge, and we talk BS while nothing gets done. I will be installing a padlock on the fridge very soon. :lmao:

Pete

Sounds like my garage!

Alex

P.S. was that the vid i tossed together?

[petevw]

I don't know, did you put it together for Sandeep? Here's the clip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_vJTRr6GT4

[gonebuggy]

I don't know, did you put it together for Sandeep? Here's the clip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_vJTRr6GT4

oh THAT compilation vid! No, as much as I'd like to take credit for it it's not mine. For some reason i thought you were talking about the dyno day vid that I did (which was also a compilation, but so was Disney's Fantasia...) MY BAD :D

Alex

[volkdent]

Sorry to hear you've got to deal with the Red Monster. I'll get that CD out to you ASAP, now I know why you are getting deeper!!!

Jason

[petevw]

Hold on a sec....

Since you'll be spending some serious $$$ doing this, ohhh boy do i have a deal for you! :D

I'll call you tomorrow, or ask Lanner/Greg. ;) They know all about it. Right here in Toronto, wicked driver/sweet deal for the summer. Can plate ASAP, so you can roll aircooled.

[Sandeep]

Thanks for the support and comments.

I'm guessing I can replace the pan halves with the body still on from what I have read on the internet ... that alone should save me quite a bit of time.

Perhaps I can replace the pans, drive it this summer, and then replace the channels in the fall after the season is over.

Chris,

I've taken the pictures and am now taking the measurements, hope to have this information to you this weekend.

Pete,

Give me a call if you can.

Thanks All,

Sandeep

[big daddy]

I'll help pull the body, just get the Jerk Chicken Rolling Biggg Yella.....
Just give me a weeks notice( Got Kids ) ......LOL

Cheers

[Rob]

Too bad you won't be out this year, but cool beans on the pan-fixin-body-pullin-beer-drinkin-bbq :D

Count me in..... I think at some point I'll be in the same spot :lmao:

Rob.

[Sandeep]

Pete,

I'll have to pass on the '65. My beetle has sentimental value and I've been wanting to tackle the rust issue for a couple of years now.

If I can find some pans at the "Wet and Chilly", I'll put some plans together for a "Raise the Body" BBQ :D

Sandeep

[gonebuggy]

John usually has pans in stock, the ones I got from him were real nice too.


Like I said earlier, I'll be there for the barn, errr body raising. But if you need a hand doing the actual work, want to pick my brain, or just borrow my tools! Let me know, I'd be more then happy to assist in anyway. It can seem daunting that first time.

Cheers bro,

Alex

[Sandeep]

Progress ...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2706.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2707.jpg~original


Old pan vs new

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2708.jpg~original

Sandeep

[volkdent]

Why did you end up going with A/W intercooler? I'm really in a toss up, I think the A/W might be better on the street, but the added complexity and weight I'm not sure makes the trade off worth while. What did you come up with on your search?

Jason

[petevw]

Sandeep, looking good.

At this rate, you'll be back ont he road before the snow falls.

[Sandeep]

Why did you end up going with A/W intercooler? I'm really in a toss up, I think the A/W might be better on the street, but the added complexity and weight I'm not sure makes the trade off worth while. What did you come up with on your search?

Jason

I used the A/W due to size restraints but that was to cool the original 2.0 and TD04-13T turbo.

The new 2.4 with GT3071R will overpower my current system (390cfm capacity) easily.

I wanted an A/A but could not figure out how to package it well, until Wally showed pics of his system. That is the way to go about but I will have to redesign my intake plumbing.

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

Sandeep, looking good.

At this rate, you'll be back ont he road before the snow falls.

That is the plan !

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

I've stripped the frame of everything that was rusted out and removed the front and rear suspension.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2710.jpg~original


I'm building a proper 915 front mount now ... something that looks factory and will confuse the techs if I ever have the car up on a lift.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2711.jpg~original


I plan to use the stock trailing arms (refurbished) with urethane bushings and dipped (zinc chromate) stock spring plates.

I think I have found a coilover (QA1) to use with relaxed trailing arms but will have to check if they fit.

I need to strip the rear arms and prepare the chassis for a coat of POR15 ... hope to do that this weekend.

Sandeep

[volkdent]

Keep up the good work!

Jason

[chug_A_bug]

NIce Job Sandeep
Keep the Pics coming :)

Chris.

[gonebuggy]

You're committed now bro!:D

Looks good, and I like the plans you have in store for it! Keep up the good work.


Alex

[Rob]

Wow man, when you dive in, you DIVE in !
Good work!

Rob.

[DORIGTT]

How much 'massaging' did you have to do in the crotch area to fit the 915 in there?

Also Sandeep, do you have pics of your A/W setup?

[Sandeep]

I'll take some pics of the 'crotch area' :lmao: but I notched it enough not to harm the torsion bar area. The 915 bellhousing surface sits about 6mm further to the rear than the stock gearbox, no adapter parts for the 915 required as I built all the peices myself.

Sandeep

[Rob]

Sandeep, what kind of welder do you use ?

Rob.

[Sandeep]

Having 2 week off really helped :D

I welded up the pans and sandblasted them, and then acid etched with phosphoric acid.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5219.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5221.jpg~original


Some POR15 ..

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5227.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5231.jpg~original

And then some "tie coat" primer

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0332.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0334.jpg~original

And then two coats of Tremclad yellow to closely match the body :D

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5684.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5686.jpg~original

[Sandeep]

I'm almost done the top now, just waiting a few days for the POR15 to cure before adding the tie coat primer and tremclad yellow.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5695.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5697.jpg~original


Then I can start assembling the pan :D

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5698.jpg~original



Sandeep

[wrenchnride247]

Wow! You did get alot done! The POR-15 stuff is great! It's coming along really good. Keep it up! :D

[Rob]

Awesome work Sandeep.
So you need a special primer over the POR15 before you can cover it with the Tremclad ?

Do you have a heated garage or does the POR15 cure in low temps as well ?

Thanks,

Rob.

[big daddy]

Looks good Sandeep, your really commited you did all that work on your own? Will ET of finish, is by summer?

Good Job

[Sandeep]

You need a primer to bond to the POR 15 called Tie Coat primer made by POR 15. Other paints then bond to the tie coat primer.

I have a BBQ propane tank with a heater attachment, so the area around the pan stays at about 15C :D

All work has been done by myself. Now I just have to bolt the whole thing together :shocked:

Summer 2010 is the goal.

Sandeep

[fast Ed]

Nice work Sandeep, props on keeping the project going. My attention span is way too short for long-term ones like that, I need to be able to drive it!!

Remember I'm not far away from you, if you find yourself in a situation where you need an extra set of hands while working on it.

Looking forward to seeing the car and getting a ride in it this summer. ;)


cheers
Ed N.

[CLKWRK]

Looks really good Sandeep! Cant wait to see this monster back on the road.
I am stuck at the "wait for bodyshop" stage, my goal is also summer 2010

[NO_H2O]

Good stuff. You will love the Tilton pedals. I have installed a set in the Herbie X project. There are some problem ares you will have to work around but they will fit and work. I want to put a set in my car but have not had the time or funds to do it.

[Sandeep]

Another Saturday, some more progress :D

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5831.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5830.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5832.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5840.jpg~original


And a Christmas present from Santa ;)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_5843.jpg~original

Sandeep

[Xellex]

Sandeep, what brand are the throttle bodies? And how do the air filters get mounted on those?
Oh, and nice project going on there, I love everything about it :D

[Sandeep]

The TB's are tapered 50mm / 45mm extrudabody.com units that flow more than 48mm TWM's. All the information is on their website.

Sandeep

[gonebuggy]

Looking fabulous Sandeep! I have faith it will be done this summer!:)
That gearbox is HUGE!

Alex

[volkdent]

She's gunna be pretty!

Jason

[Sandeep]

Some more progress on another major project on the pan ... the tilton pedals :D

What a pain in the A$$ to get these to fit properly. I had to "massage" the drivers side heater channel and make a base plate to bolt the pedals do as the pan material is thin.

I like the fit, now just need to run the brake / clutch slave lines.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6434.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6435.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6436.jpg~original

I've got some proper couplers made up, don't mind the welded nuts ... :o

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

Another package arrived from the good folks at Aircooled Heaven.

Twin plug turbo heads, 10mm spark plugs top and bottom, 42 x 38 valves, machined for V2 98mm Nickes. The exhaust flows 150 cfm @ .500" with a full valve guide :eek: :D

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6430.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6431.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6433.jpg~original

Almost ready to start assembling the engine :cool:

Sandeep

[chug_A_bug]

very nice work Sandeep, LOVE the TB's
and the pedal set up and those HEADS WOW! :D
can't wait to See it out this summer ;)
Chris.

[petevw]

Very Nice!

Thanks for the update.....

[wrenchnride247]

Very cool updates! :D

[NO_H2O]

The Tiltons are a PITA to mount but they sure are nice when you are done. Lots of cool goodies going into your ride.

[Simon]

Hi Sandeep, looks great! Especially after a 2year hiatus ;)

Anyway, what exactly is "acid etched with phosphoric acid"?

Was the floor pan itself not sufficient to mount the pedalbox to?

[Humble]

I had tiltons before it was cool... just kidding, once you put your feet on a set you'll never want to go back, you'll love 'em :) Dave's right about the mounting though, total pain. Did you brace the floor at all under the pedal cluster?

How much was the twin plug conversion on the heads? I've been considering a twin plug setup for a while and it's more tempting now that there are better ignition solutions.

[Wally]

Beautifull work! especially since you did the pedals yourself :D
I think you did the only viable way to install these: with the cylinders on the other side. Very well/nicely done!! This will be my example for when I am done with the stock cluster...thanks!

How much further apart (distance sideways from clutch to brake pedal) are the Tilton's compared to the original pedals?

The heads/twin plugs are very thought-out as well. Total respect for Len's work here!

[effvee]

Twin plug turbo heads, 10mm spark plugs top and bottom, 42 x 38 valves, machined for V2 98mm Nickes. The exhaust flows 150 cfm @ .500" with a full valve guide :eek: :D


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6431.jpg~original


How can I contact Aircooled Heaven? I went to their site but did not see a contact link, just a webmaster contact. I have two sets of heads that I want daul spark plug added. How much did it cost?

[CLKWRK]

Sandeep, thats gonna be SICK!
I can't wait to see your car in person

Bry

[Sandeep]

Thanks for all of the comments.


Anyway, what exactly is "acid etched with phosphoric acid"?

Was the floor pan itself not sufficient to mount the pedalbox to?

Phosphoric acid roughens up the smooth metal and gives the por15 something to "bite" to. If I remember correctly, the pans I'm using are about 22 gauge thick, so not thick enough to support the loads of my foot pressing hard on the brake :eek:

They are supposed to be mounted on a structural part of the chassis according to the manual, so I sandwiched the floor pan between 2 sheets of 1/8" thich steel plate to spread the load.




How much was the twin plug conversion on the heads? I've been considering a twin plug setup for a while and it's more tempting now that there are better ignition solutions.

I won't quote the amount of the conversion because of the special requirements I had, but you can contact Jake / Len for a ballpark figure.


I think you did the only viable way to install these: with the cylinders on the other side. Very well/nicely done!! This will be my example for when I am done with the stock cluster...thanks!

How much further apart (distance sideways from clutch to brake pedal) are the Tilton's compared to the original pedals?


You can thank Dave / Herbie53X for the excellent solution to mounting the Tiltons ... I can't take credit for that. I don't have the pedal measurements handy, but the installation manual with dimensions is on the Tilton website.

Effvee, contact Jake at www.aircooledtechnology.com for the twin plug heads.

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Wow Sandeep!! Man ,I thought you just wanted an engine upgrade! A total resto?! Well done,excellent work!! I´ve been looking at the Tilton pedals for a while.The pics you made answer a lot a lot questions - thanks! That is going to be a monster!! Did you order the oil pump also? If I can help you with that let me know.

[Sandeep]

Small update .... Installed the fuel system.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_6474.jpg~original

The swirl pot is a billet transmission overflow tank, with new holes drilled into it. 3/8" drain into 3/8" hose / tube to a cheap inline filter, and then into a MSD 500hp capable EFI pump. The pump then pushes fuel through 3/8" tube in the tunnel to the distribution buss.

From the regulator return, its 5/16" tube through the tunnel back to the swirl pot. There is a 1/4" feed from the fuel tank into the pot, and also a 1/4" overflow / breather from the pot up to the filler hose to the tank. I still need some 5/16" FI clamps for the 5/16" hose to finish this off.

This is basically the same setup I used with the 2.0T, just better looking :D

Difficult to find any more time to dedicate to the restoration right now ....

Sandeep

[petevw]

Cool looks good,

Replace those FI clamps with 2-ear clamps. I've had those FI clamps come loose on me and piss fuel everywhere with 5psi.

Pete

[Wally]

It does look good and I found out that I probably (no, surely) need some sort of swirl pot for fuel delivery as well.

I do hope your lines and pump are big enough for your needs.

[70Turbobug]

Looking good Sandeep! I agree with Wally on the fuel lines.They do look a bit small..

[Sandeep]

I checked the specs on the pump and it only flows 160 lph at 45 psi, and at 20 psi boost it would flow less. I am not sure why I chose this pump in the first place now.

The aluminum injector holders have a -6an fitting, so it looks like I'll be running new lines through the tunnel again. What size do you suggest, based on my system ? Looking to support 500hp.

Sandeep

[Wally]

Hey Sandeep,

I would (and have) just get a Bosch 044 pump and be done with it. Less noise too, just ask Humble as he runs one too. It supports more than 500 hp ;)
That pump also has a 12mm (1/2 inch) inlet size, so now you also know what the feed line internal diameter has to be.
High pressure line can be 8mm. What this means in AN size, I dunno, but you will probably figure it out :)
I would get a high pressure filter and mount it on the pressure side with 8mm fittings, like porsche does also.

Walter

[owdlvr]

Hey Sandeep,

I would (and have) just get a Bosch 044 pump and be done with it.

x2 on the Bosch 044.

That pump also has a 12mm (1/2 inch) inlet size, so now you also know what the feed line internal diameter has to be.
High pressure line can be 8mm. What this means in AN size, I dunno, but you will probably figure it out :)
I would get a high pressure filter and mount it on the pressure side with 8mm fittings, like porsche does also.

Walter

-6 is the closest AN size to 8mm (it's technically 3/8", which is roughly 9.5mm). I would run -6 line and not worry about it. Russell makes an aluminum fuel line that can be combined with their aluminum fuel line adapters for the easiest line-to-AN combo. No flaring tool is required. Part number 639480 for the natural finish line (also available in black, red and blue) and 639210 for an example of the fitting end (also available in swivel end as well as black/silver instead of red/blue).

034Motorsports has tested the 044 and found it does 265Lt/Hr @ 55lbs and 255Lt/Hr @ 75lbs.

Inlet is 18x1.5mm, outlet is M12.

-Dave

[Humble]

I've got the 044 bosch pump on the race car @ 50psi on 750cc injectors and it's both quiet and capable. I've got a -8 feed line from the tank to the pump, -6 high pressure out to a filter, then -6 to the motor. I'm also running a -6 return back to the tank to make things easy.

You could probably get away with using -8 from tank to swirl pot, -8 from swirl pot to pump, and then -6 for the rest of the system like I did with out issue. It's only when you get into truly ridiculous hp numbers and 1000cc injectors that you will need anything more than a -6 feed line.

[petevw]

I agree. Use the Bosch pump and plumb it -6AN. I believe the pump is also from a CIS MK1 VW Rabbit. I ran one with the EFI’D 2332. Maintained pressure well. I didn’t have a swirl tank, didn’t know any better back 10yrs ago. I ran my return line to a “tee” fitting just before the pump inlet. So it would cavitate once in a while. Mine was noisy because it was solid mounted to the pan. I think the CB EFI pump is that same Bosch unit as well, but they wrap it in a thick rubber sleeve.

Remember, get some 2ear clamps:
http://www.compressedaironline.co.uk/acatalog/OCLIPBIG.jpg

Or plumb it all with AN fittings. Performance Improvements has all the AN stuff on sale this week.

Pete

[Sandeep]

Thanks for all of the feedback. Looks like a 044 is in my plans now along with some AN hardware.

More pics when the fuel system has been completed.

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

What size do you suggest, based on my system ? Looking to support 500hp.

I would run an -6 AN fuel pressure line and -8AN from the tank to the swirlpot and to the pump,as mentioned above.You will need more pressure and volume than what you have now.If you run 3 bar of fuel pressure and 1.5bar of boost,you will need 4.5 bar minimum fuel pressure at the flow rate your injectors will be flowing. A good fuel pump that is also very reasonable is the walbro 392,and it is E85 compatitable. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-pumps/?itemid=12

[Wally]

A good fuel pump that is also very reasonable is the walbro 392,..

The disadvantage of Wallbro's is they seem to fail sometimes and are more noisy.
That was my reason to look for a 044 (which also seem to flow a tad bit more at higher pressure gradients).
But the Wallbro costs less... (and now you know why)

[70Turbobug]

Ok,that´s the first time I´ve heard anything negative about the walbro.;)

[Sandeep]

Some more updates while I am waiting for the new fuel pump / regulator / filter.

The rear end is complete and on the ground:rockon:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0032.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0037.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0040.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0045.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0046.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0048.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0050.jpg~original

Now to tackle the front beam and rebuild that. Hope to have it as a roller in less than a month :D

Sandeep

[effvee]

[QUOTE=Sandeep;75850]Some more updates while I am waiting for the new fuel pump / regulator / filter.

The rear end is complete and on the ground:rockon:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0040.jpg~original

Very nice work. Question, I see a tab attached to the chassis snubber mount, it has made some scratches on your otter CV, what is it for?

Lastly, please keep us updated as to your choice of coil overs and how well they respond.

[petevw]

Very nice work. Question, I see a tab attached to the chassis snubber mount, it has made some scratches on your otter CV, what is it for?


Saw that too. Figure it's a pickup/sensor for a speed input for the ECU. Sandeep, you have one on the other side too? Traction control? :eek:

Pete

[70Turbobug]

Saw that too. Figure it's a pickup/sensor for a speed input for the ECU. Sandeep, you have one on the other side too? Traction control? :eek:

Pete

That could be for the pick up sensor for ABS brakes I would guess,but ABS is also very hard to implement correctly i.e. mapping parameters in which it should operate.Much harder than motormanagement.Traction control would be very cool,but it is also hard to implement.

[Sandeep]

I have placed that tab on the other side too, and they are both for VR sensors.

The sensors pick up the heads of the cv bolts and pulse 6 times for every revolution of the wheel, so I know how fast the wheel is turning. I am programming an AVR microcontroller to interface to the S60Pro ECU and feed the data from the ECU, into innovate motorsports Logworks 3 data logging software. I have a bunch of other innovate stuff as well, so I am incorporating all of the data into a nice 7" TFT touch display on my dash :eekno:

I can then log both rear wheel speeds, and compare that to the front wheel speed to see how much wheel spin I have when driving.

This will tell me if I need an LSD or not :D

BTW, the S60Pro has a traction control setting that uses the undriven wheel speed, gear setting and engine RPM to determine wheel slip and retards the ignition to keep traction :D

Lanner is machining my front hubs to use the 944 antilock rings that come stock on the hubs so I can play around with this feature.

Sandeep

[Wally]

I have placed that tab on the other side too, and they are both for VR sensors.

The sensors pick up the heads of the cv bolts and pulse 6 times for every revolution of the wheel, so I know how fast the wheel is turning. I am programming an AVR microcontroller to interface to the S60Pro ECU and feed the data from the ECU, into innovate motorsports Logworks 3 data logging software.

Interested if you can make that work. Not sure what I am doing wrong, but still don't even see LUWS (left undriven wheel speed) and it's not the right hand wheel thats got the sensor :lmao:


BTW, the S60Pro has a traction control setting that uses the undriven wheel speed, gear setting and engine RPM to determine wheel slip and retards the ignition to keep traction :D


Yeah, it even lets you have a set max percentage wheel slip before it messes with timing.
Pretty cool all, but not sure if it works like that IRL if you have 400 RWHP on the dragstrip with street tires...
:rolleyes:

[Sandeep]

One more step closer to having a running engine this year :D

The 98mm JE's from LNE showed up along with the tool steel pins / rings and spiral locks :cool:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0141.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0142.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0143.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_0144.jpg~original

Sandeep

[NO_H2O]

Looks like you have your Tilton pedals in too. Moving along nicely.

[Sandeep]

Well, time for an update seeing as I have 2 weeks off for the Holidays and need to make a big push to have this bug on the road for spring 2011.

Dash before: (needed to install a kickin stereo in high school :shocked:)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/Picture_0172.jpg~original


Tried to cover it up and make it look acceptable

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_1912.jpg~original


2 days of cutting / fitting / welding ... thanks for the donor dash Pete !

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4623.jpg~original


Cleaning up the "interior oil cooler experiment" as I now have an RX7 oil cooler up front

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4625.jpg~original

[chug_A_bug]

looks great Sandeep... hope to See it on the road this Summer :)

Chris.

[Sandeep]

Re did the fuel system up front thanks to comments from the group ...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4627.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4630.jpg~original
-8 line from the fuel tank to Aeromotive canister filter (100 micron), and then -8 to the swirl tank, -8 feed to the Bosch 044 fuel pump. Still need to run a -6 line from pump to regulator in the back, and then a -6 return line to swirl pot.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4631.jpg~original
Front end complete except for plumbing up the brake / clutch hydraulics. The lines have been run, just need to terminate the fittings. Lanner is working on the new splindles, current ones are temporary so I can move the chassis around.

[Sandeep]

Need to spend a few days fixing the rust in the rear area before I can place the body on the pan, and work on the heater channels.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4632.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4633.jpg~original


Dash display coming along nicely.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4635.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/DSC_4638.jpg~original

I have all of the parts to put the long block together, then need to build a horizontal cooling system .... NEED TO GET THIS ON THE ROAD FOR SPRING 2011 !!! :D

Thats it for now, more progress as it happens.

Sandeep

[CLKWRK]

Looks great, I especially like the display.
Can't wait to see it (and maybe get a ride in it)
Bry

[Wally]

I like all the control boxes!

The screen now reads s/th like 'Read the f*cking manual'!! :lmao:

[70Turbobug]

Coming along nicely Sandeep!

I have all of the parts to put the long block together, then need to build a horizontal cooling system .

Riechert still sells the horizontal fan set up.If you want one or need help ordering let me know.

[dub_crazee]

nice work sandeep! looks very trick!

[V8SuperBeetle]

Nice work! I'm guessing you're going to repaint the whole car?

[Luismj]

Sandeep,

Nice job!

Only to show you an interesting solution that is being born in Brazil.
Full touch 4,3" realtime programmable or by computer. (This is not only one display is full programable injection)

http://www.fueltech.com.br/br/product/detail/198/ft400

The rest of the family is more simple and already a champion on the track.

[Luismj]

English.... :rolleyes:

http://fueltechusa.hydra.kinghost.net//br/product/detail/215/ft400

[NO_H2O]

Looking good.

[ferfre007]

incredible! spectacular
The Käfer

Congratulations!


pereira zito in USA ?????? floor and skirting boards are not made in USA?

[Luismj]

Looking good.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm3puqyHfI4&feature=player_embedded

FT400 I love it... :D im buy one!

[Sandeep]

Just secured a G50/01 gearbox and now need to swap out the 915. 2 steps forward, 1 step backward, but all for the better. The bellhousing will need to be shortened to avoid cutting the torsion tubes.

The 915 will be up for sale soon.

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

Some more progress....

G50/01 fitted in the chassis

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1725.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1726.jpg~original


Got it installed far enough forward to be the exact same distance as the old 915 bellhousing was, with only minor clearancing of the torsion tube. Had to cut a 1" dia hole in the torsion tube to accomodate a bump in the G50 nosecone. The G50 bellhousing still needs to be machined shorter.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1735.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1736.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1739.jpg~original


Had to cut a small notch out of the upper frame horn to fit the bump in the gearbox that houses the internal shifting gate. I'll weld in some metal to try and make this look like a factory "pocket" in the frame horn.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1734.jpg~original


Shifter and front mount installed, was able to use the old 915 front mount with very minor modifications.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1741.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1742.jpg~original


The annular TOB is a LUK unit from a 2006-2008 VW Passat with 2.0T engine. I'll need to cut off the feed tube, tap it for an AN fitting and plumb it.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/G50%20Gearbox/IMG_1743.jpg~original


More to come when the bellhousing gets machined down, and need to find some 964 front diff axle flanges that use 100mm CV's.

I'll use my old 915 rear mount with some minor mods. Thanks to Wally for leading the way with his install.

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Looking good Sandeep nice work!!

[Wally]

The way you do it now seems almost easy and straightforward ;)
Looks very familiar and without the body it is indeed even more easy to do.

Be carefull how much you shave off the bell housing though. I did leave a few mm before the second rib on the bell housing and you will need that with the height of the TO bearing being what it is. Leaving one or two mm more then I machined off might be even better still. So, instead of the appr. 1 inch, make it 20mm or so?
Also check the splined pinion shaft: with a type 4 crank being hollow the first part, you may not need to have the shaft shortenend at all. The length of the splines could be a little too much/long, but that depends heavily on the clutch set-up you will use.

Greets,
Walter

[Xellex]

Great stuff! I love how a good, already installed and much sought after Porsche gearbox becomes "old" and makes room for the G50. That has to be dedication to the project!
Keep the pics coming! :D

[Sandeep]

Thanks guys.

Its always easy to do something when its been so well documented before you make the attempt ;)

I'll be using a my WBX 228mm flywheel with 6 puc solid disk and kennedy stage 2 PP that are a carry over from the 2.0T motor (should hold 340 ft/lbs torque). I'll need to measure their combined installed depth and get an idea of how much the PP fingers must compress to release the clutch before determining how much to machine off the bellhousing.

I can't recall the exact TOB measurements but believe its ~ 40mm compressed height and ~ 60mm extended length, will need to look at my notes.

I woukld like to upgrade the power in the future :eek: but am not sure if the Kennedy twin clutch set up is any difference (installed depth wise) from the setup that I will currently run ? That would be the next logical step, but if it is too different, I could go to a stage 3 PP (378 ft/lbs on stock disk, 450ish ft/lbs with the 6 puc). The annular TOB should not increase the pedal pressure by much, just based on the design.

I'll keep Wally's recommendations in mind as he is the pioneer :D

The 'old' 915 shifting mechanism seems 'lost' when I try to shift gears with the shaft only, the G50 just clicks from gear to gear :D , must be the internal shift gate. The shift rod installation will be quite easy I think, may have to shorten the rod, but that is trivial.

More to come !

[Wally]

I can't recall the exact TOB measurements but believe its ~ 40mm compressed height and ~ 60mm extended length, will need to look at my notes.

I woukld like to upgrade the power in the future :eek: but am not sure if the Kennedy twin clutch set up is any difference (installed depth wise) from the setup that I will currently run ?

Yes, mine was ~40-41mm fully compressed as well iirc, so that must be right.

Kennedy twin clutch IS the same thickness overall, BUT.... (large but) only if you use twin thin black magic disks... There, you found the reason I went BM...;)
If you want twin organic, leave ~6mm (5mm MB vs 8mm organic times two)more meat on the bell housing ;)

[petevw]

That trans is a monster!

Looking good Sandeep.

Later,
Pete

[Sandeep]

Too hot to work in the garage lately ... +35c with humidity so thought I'd spend some time in the cool basement with some electronics for the car.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/2011-08-19022004.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/2011-08-19021927.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/2011-08-19021747.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/2011-08-19022316.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/2011-08-19022302.jpg~original

Now just need to clean things up, paint some parts and put the headlights back together for good.

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Oooooooooohhhh I like that a lot! I know exactly where you can install them!! :D Would you share some details? Please!?

[NO_H2O]

Sweet.

[Sandeep]

Oooooooooohhhh I like that a lot! I know exactly where you can install them!! :D Would you share some details? Please!?

The base headlight is a Porsche 911 Bosch H4 unit that I changed out the 911 chrome trim ring for a '66 vw beetle ring. I had to remove the H4 metal cap from the chrome bowl, just 2 tabs and it pops out. The bucket / bowl is still 911 Bosch H4 and I still have horizontal / vertical alignment adjustments :D

The glass was changed from the H4 fluted lens to a '66 beetle clear lens. The lenses are the cheap aftermarket ones and I'll be replacing these with some OEM lenses (if I can find them) but they'll work for now. You can tell how crappy the lenses are by the distortion present in the first pic :o

The projectors are bixenon Morimoto Mini D2S's with D2S 5000K bulbs, 35 watt ballasts and a custom harness. The shrouds are called Gatling Guns and include the 100mm dia CCFL tubes / inverters, all was purchased from http://www.theretrofitsource.com

I chose these projectors because the kit is a direct replacement for Halogen H4 bulbs ... total retrofit took about 2 hrs and I am impressed with the results, both asthetically and financially. I really wanted to fill in that 7" chrome bowl so the projector (2.5" dia) doesn't look lost.

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

I agree the results are fantastic! Thanks for sharing! I have been thinking of how to convert my lenses to HID and bring it through the tüv - with those components it just might work..thanks!

[70Turbobug]

Some more questions: the 7" bowl is still the original headlight bowl/backplate? Or is that the "Gattling Gun" plastic insert? The reason I ask is on the website the gattling gun shroud is the piece around the bulb? Or is there another piece to it that isn´t pictured on the website? The LEDs are also included?

[Sandeep]

Yes, the 7" bowl is the original Bosch H4 bowl.

This particular D2S projector has a threaded end on it so it fits into the original hole for the H4 bulb. Once installed, the projector sticks out towards the glass lens on the front of the bowl. You still install the D2S bulbs from the rear of the bowl, just like the stock H4 setup.

The shroud is then placed over the projector to cover up its guts ... a nice side effect of this is the cool pattern that is reflected on to the chrome bowl :D

Of course you can get different shrouds, which will project a different pattern on to the bowl. Different shrouds also have provisions for different diameter CCFL / LED rings, I chose this particular model to fill out the bowl, the CCFL / LED rings are an option that comes with the kit.

The great thing about this kit is it is fully 100% reversible if you needed to convert back :confused:

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Great info Thanks a lot Sandeep! I will definetly order me a set.

[ricola]

Hi Sandeep,
Any chance of some pics without the shrouds on? I'm trying to work out if they are short enough to do the same swap in some late 7" housings for my '03. Do they stick out of the back a long way? Finally, the site lists the gatling shrouds as only 120mm diameter but it looks like yours are bigger?
Cheers,
Rich

[70Turbobug]

That's basically what I asked what you see is the reflection of the shroud on the bucket ;) You can't see that in the pic

[ricola]

Ah, that makes sense now! I take it you have to remove the lense from the sealed beam and throw it away as the projector wouldn't fit underneath it?

[Bruce.]

Nice..... However for UK owners, I think the new MOT rules that start in jan 2012 will now include HID so it must be up to spec.

Which may include headlight washers and auto levelling system.

[al_kaholik]

Bruce that is what concerns me. Rich what is your stance? Torn between some good quality H4s with (+x% bulbs) and driving lights or a projector conversion.

Does look smart though

[70Turbobug]

Nice..... However for UK owners, I think the new MOT rules that start in jan 2012 will now include HID so it must be up to spec.

Which may include headlight washers and auto levelling system.

We have the same problem here in Germany also.A washing system is no problem.I haven't figured out how an auto leveling would work.Electronically isn't much of a problem, you could use an oem unit.However mechanically it gets more complicated.I'm hoping I won't need it.

[al_kaholik]

I've been doing a little reading - seems a lot of OEM installations don't have wash systems - EVO 9 is an example that came up.

Are the laws still outdated on this. I would think that TUV will probably need levelling?

You can get through an MOT by having correct beam pattern but if pulled by the police its a different matter if they wish it to be. Requirement under law states it MUST have wash AND levelling

[Bruce.]

link to UK MOT changes regarding lighting (from next year)

http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/repository/technicalpenpicture3-lighting.pdf

washer & aiming system is required. The only exception (to the leveling system) is a few high performance cars with limited luggage space and very stiff suspension (ie no chance of the lights pointing too high).

[ricola]

I'll have to read up on levelling but I've already got the (very rare!) VW headlight washer system.. I wonder if the fact that I don't have any rear luggage space (only front) might be a safe argument? I d tend t pint them lw if in doubt.

Having said that, it is a long way dwn my priority list and I have already beefed up my wiring with additional relays for higher power standard bulbs.

Let's not take up all of Sandeep's thread for this though!

[al_kaholik]

Don't get me wrong it looks awesome - just a concern for UK is all :)

[70Turbobug]

washer & aiming system is required. The only exception (to the leveling system) is a few high performance cars with limited luggage space and very stiff suspension (ie no chance of the lights pointing too high).
Reply With Quote

That´s interesting.I wonder if that is the reason why an autoleveling system is required here also.I just checked and there are autoleveling systems available on Ebay that include sensors,wire harnes ecu etc. It would be wise to get one with an "E" certification or "ABE"

[al_kaholik]

Or pull one off a car with it on. If you can get a brain and sensors, the late old Minis had adjustable lights (1997>) which has a 7" light bowl with a motor attached.

Would be interesting to know what the definition of very stiff is! To be honest on the roads around where my parents live the self levelling would be working over time. I wonder what failure rates are on the motors and cost.

Back to you Sandeep!

[Sandeep]

:lmao:

I'll get some pics / measurements up tonight ... been out of town.

Sandeep

[spannermanager]

"Very stiff" in itself can cause problems, its a fail in the u.k if its solid, i had/have endless problems with road registered race saloons that require an mot certificate.

[Sandeep]

As requested.

Projector in bowl without shroud

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/DSC_7979.jpg~original


Back of projector / bowl

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/DSC_7981.jpg~original


Comparison to stock H4 bulb

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/DSC_7982.jpg~original


~ 40mm to back of bulb from mounting tab where stock H4 sits. The connector is not much thicker ... so 45mm should have you covered.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/DSC_7984.jpg~original


Projector / Bosch bowl / shroud

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Bixenon/DSC_7985.jpg~original

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Very simple indeed! Thanks for the pics! However, I think an auto leveling system won´t be easy to adapt.Maybe retrofit themselves have a solution.i have found all the components needed for it as a kit from Hella,but adapting the stepper motor won´t be easy since there aren´t any fix points or much room for the bulb to move.That´s what I miss about the states.It´s just so easy - install something and be done with it,no need to have mods go through a tech inspection..

[evilC]

I'll have to read up on levelling but I've already got the (very rare!) VW headlight washer system.. I wonder if the fact that I don't have any rear luggage space (only front) might be a safe argument? I d tend t pint them lw if in doubt.

Having said that, it is a long way dwn my priority list and I have already beefed up my wiring with additional relays for higher power standard bulbs.

Let's not take up all of Sandeep's thread for this though!

It seems that the bulb manufacturers recognise the need for powerful lighting as Philips are marketting a +100% H4 bulb as a simple direct replacement that would give an equivalent 120/110W headlight. The nearest to that would be the 130/90W (not for road use) competition bulb. Wire the lamps for mains and dip to come on when mains is selected and you can retain your original wire sizes and you could have an equivalent 460W halogen light whilst keeping everything stock and legal - cost about £25. Besides the extra lumens the beam pattern is the most important factor that can utilise all of the light output and good quality lenses/relectors are vital.

Most of the HID projector lights I have driven with give too sharp a cut off so that on dip beam it is either night or day and the visual focus suddenly changes between mains and dip so that IMO it affects proper car control (try riding a bike with your eyes focused on the road about 5 yards ahead to see what I mean). What is needed is a little bleed at the edges so that the focus remains further up the road and the old fashioned external lens lamps create that.

Clive

[Wally]

Quit fooling with lighting or other ancillaries and get the car together! ;-)
Engine assembled yet?

[Steve C]

Hi

Phillips have many better bulbs that can be used and still keep the standard wiring etc. http://www.lighting.philips.com.au/v2/automotive/product.jsp?menu=2_1&id=1053472

Steve

[evilC]

Steve,

Using your link, these are the ones I was thinking of: http://www.lighting.philips.com.au/v2/automotive/productrange.jsp?id=1088066&app=car_&vp=more light&va=more light

Clive

[Steve C]

Hi Clive

I have something similar in my daily 1303, they are very good and white, and only need standard wiring.

I might also look into getting my low beams to stay on when on high beam, doing this manually with the dipper switch gives a very good light pattern.

Steve

[Sandeep]

Quit fooling with lighting or other ancillaries and get the car together! ;-)
Engine assembled yet?

Getting there ! :lmao: A little bit more welding to do and I can start on assembling the engine.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2199.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2200.jpg~original

Drivers side heater channel fitted, just need to weld it in now. the passengers side should go faster, drivers side came out in 3 rusty peices.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2201.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2202.jpg~original

G50 and shifter fitted, 100mm drive flanges fitted, shifts amazingly smooth.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/Resto/IMG_2203.jpg~original

7" Touch screen fitted.

The body hasn't been on the pan in 4 years so my motivation is back after seeing these two together again :D

Sandeep

[Wally]

G50 and shifter fitted, .., shifts amazingly smooth.


Sandeep

Don't sound so amazed! :lmao: (told you so ;))

Nice work on the sills!; it looks to have been necessary and also looks like you have the same rust problems over there as we have..

The touch screen is freaking amazing! I am not much into gimmicks, but that is VERY cool!
What do you plan on displaying all?

[Sandeep]

Unfortunately, we have lots of salt on our roads in the winter as well. This car was my first car so I cant get rid of it that easily.

The touch screen can read 30 parameters from the DTA S60 / Innovate instruments that I have and programming the details is straight forward (for me) ;D I've just got to group the similar data together in virtual gauges with each gauge blinking red when a threshhold value has been reached.

If none of the gauges are red, nothing to worry about, but if something turns red, it will catch my eye while driving.

The only other real gauges I will have are a tach and my AEM Tru boost boost controller.

Even the fuel gauge is displayed through the touch screen in %age of fuel remaining :cool:

Sandeep

[Wally]

Awesome! Can't wait to see the final product of your efforts!

[NO_H2O]

Very cool stuff. Touch screen display will be sweet.

[ricola]

Do you have a plan on how you are going to do that left brake master cylinder pushrod? Looks like it will get sandwiched in with the body gasket...

[al_kaholik]

I looked at this years ago and everyone told me I was mad it was not necessary and it was completely OTT...

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/a_t_b321/computer016.jpg~original

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/a_t_b321/main_bg_dark.gif~original

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/a_t_b321/Picture012.jpg~original

Its still on the back burner - my dad had it in his Passat GL5 for a bit

[70Turbobug]

NICE Sandeep!! I love Gadgets like that! I had basically the same idea but I gave it up.The reasons for me were: during the day when the sun hits the display,you can hardly read anything.In that regard I am a bit spoiled because the screens that aircraft use (at least Airbus) illuminate automatically brighter when the sun hits it, so you can see all the data on the screen.At night a normal screen is quite distracting (to me) because it´s usally a little too bright and if there is movement on the screen away from your immediate view of sight, I tend to always look over to it.Still,I love to see stuff like that and all the tech involved! Looking better everyday Sandeep!

[al_kaholik]

Modern screens are daylight visible and self adjusting to ambient lighting or you can use time of day to change the gamma settings. Things have come a long way since I was looking at this even a few years back. With solid state drives also now becoming affordable and screen technology having advanced its much easier. You could even slap a small tablet PC into the dash and take it away with you. That would run all the tuning software and anythign else you wanted it to do

[70Turbobug]

You could even slap a small tablet PC into the dash and take it away with you.

Yeah that would be cool,although space is pretty limited on a bug dash.There is a lot of really cool stuff nowadays,though.I really like to see what these freaks are doing.

[al_kaholik]

These freaks are dragging you lot kicking and screaming into the 21st century! :p

[Sandeep]

Thanks Guys.

Do you have a plan on how you are going to do that left brake master cylinder pushrod? Looks like it will get sandwiched in with the body gasket...

2 heads are better than one :o Thanks for that, didn't even see the issue. I will fab something up to take care of it.


These freaks are dragging you lot kicking and screaming into the 21st century! :p

Right On !! :lmao:

Al ... that is a nicely done installation. I'll be using a pico ITX box with an AVR microcontroller intercepting the data feed from the DTA S60 Pro, and then passing on to the ITX box that runs the software to make my touchscreen look pretty. I want to incorporate a GPS feed because of all of the driving I will (eventually) be doing.

The smaller the interface box the better, because the car does not really have an interior (2 seats, steering wheel and shifter :eek:)

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

NICE Sandeep!! ... At night a normal screen is quite distracting (to me) because it´s usally a little too bright and if there is movement on the screen away from your immediate view of sight, I tend to always look over to it ...

Good point Mark. Perhaps I'll write some code to flash a small LED in the tach or somewhere on the dash to indicate if any of the gauge data is reading high. That way, I can have a quick look at the screen and see what the #$%% is causing the issue :cool:

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

If you can program that, you could also program a light sensitive sensor that dims when it's dark or when sun light hits it, it brightens.It makes life much easier if you have a "glass ****pit" i.e. a display unit for all your engine data etc.

[Sandeep]

The touchscreen does that automatically, light sensitive screen that reacts to the ambient light around it.

Working towards having this pig on the road for 2012 :yes:

Sandeep

[Wally]

Wrong animal Sandeep, but I won't mind this time ;-)

[al_kaholik]

Sandeep - happy to have a chat off this board on any ideas/help or just to chew the fat....

You can PM me and we'll exchange emails. Pico is the way to go - I'll be updating my board at some point in the future I think SSDs are the way forward.

[Sandeep]

Time to update this thread after about 15 months away from the project :(

I've started building up the 2413cc T4 Turbo (80mm x 98mm) and have it completed to the shortblock.

80mm Raby / DPR ion nitrated crank
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2885.jpg~original


Crank assembly completed with Magnum straight cut gear and Scat 5.325" H beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2890.jpg~original


Crank assembly installed in case, along with cam assembly clearanced for TP DS billet pump. Green lube is Joe Gibbs Driven assembly grease
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2895.jpg~original


Case halves prepped with Curil K2 and ready to close up
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2896.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2897.jpg~original


Shortblock together with ARP throughbolts and starting to add some external bits. Curil T under all case washers and through bolts to prevent oil leakage :D
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2900.jpg~original


10mmx1.0 to -3AN adapter for turbo feed line in place of oil pressure sender. I will add a new oil pressure sender somewhere else in the system, possibly in the oil cooler block off plate somewhere, to clean up the exposed wiring around the engine. The oil cooler block off has had a new oil path drilled in to it to permit passage of oil.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2902.jpg~original


Block as it sits right now
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2898.jpg~original

[Wally]

Great to see progress here!
Tnx for the pics.

[Sandeep]

Clutch solution based on pinched ideas from other members on this board (Wally) and the internet :o

VW type 4 automatic flex plate with original flex plate rivets drilled out to reveal this finely machined factory peice (right). Pre-86 Chevy V8 button flywheel made by Tilton (left)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/20121126_213136.jpg~original


Some fine machining / TIG welding by Robert Gross to mate these two peices. They were pressed together with 10 tons of force with an interference fit before welding. Lets hope this assembly holds together :shocked:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2903.jpg~original


Rebuilt Tilton 7.25" dual disc clutch with 620 ft/lbs of clamping pressure (Ebay Nascar find) along with Porsche G50 ring gear
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/IMG_2904.jpg~original


Now need to machine this peice out of aluminim to connect the ring gear to the flywheel assembly
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/ringgearadapter.jpg~original


Final unit should look like this once completed
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/2413cc%20T4%20Turbo/Goal.jpg~original


More updates as they happen ... need to keep the momentumn as the goal is to be ready for the Berlin Klassik (http://www.berlinklassik.ca/) in September :D

[70Turbobug]

Looking great Sandeep! I really like your idea on the flywheel and clutch set up!

[Sandeep]

Great to see progress here!
Tnx for the pics.

Thanks Wally ... hope you don't mind the pinched clutch idea .. or the pinched G50 installation :p

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

Looking great Sandeep! I really like your idea on the flywheel and clutch set up!

Thanks Mark ... but I can't take credit for this one as the information was already out there on the 'net. The cool thing about this flywheel setup is that it cost me ~ 100$ not including the welding.

The issue right now will be the final weight once completed as the whole assembly including clutch and discs should come in at about 8.5 lbs. It may be a biotch to drive in traffic, but that is not the goal of the project :D

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Definetly can't beat that price! Good score!

[Wally]

No worries there at all Sandeep: I used your turbo location idea in return ;)

[petevw]

Oh la la!

What pistons cylinders are you using?

Looking for a large set of plugs/jugs. Suggestions for 102/103's?

[Sandeep]

Oh la la!

What pistons cylinders are you using?

Looking for a large set of plugs/jugs. Suggestions for 102/103's?

Using LN Engineering V2 Nickies (98mm) with JE pistons. Hoping to put some serious boost in to them (> 20 psi)

Depends on what the goal is for the motor ... you can go LN Engineering or common 103mm jugs.

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

Some minor updates .....

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/20130530_212759.jpg~original (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/turbopics/media/20130530_212759.jpg.html)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/20130530_214113.jpg~original (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/turbopics/media/20130530_214113.jpg.html)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/20130530_215928.jpg~original (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/turbopics/media/20130530_215928.jpg.html)

Stainless steel hidden crank trigger using Hall sensor from http://thedubshop.net/. This setup is really clean, thanks to Mario for working with me to produce an awesome product ..... just waiting for a dry sump pulley and the long block can be considered together. Next have to work on the valve train geometry and then figure out the spark plug wire routing for the twin plug set up.

Getting there ..... but its 35c where I live so that means BBQ's and beer will be taking up most of my time :D

Sandeep

[petevw]

Nice.

I'll have to check their website.

[volkdent]

Nice kit, keep the momentum rolling!!!

Jason

[NO_H2O]

Very nice trigger setup.

[Humble]

Top notch parts guys, that is awesome work!

[Sandeep]

Well, things took another turn on the weekend and it looks like my beetle project is officially dead (again) and the final nail has been put in the coffin.

Its been a long time coming and I just don't have the time. I gave it a good shot but the enthusiasm is not there to put this car back together fully. I'll be putting it up for sale, mostly as a project that needs to be put together.

Sad to come to this realization, but relief that a final decision has actually been made.

Sandeep

[Sandeep]

I guess I should post a few pics of the sledge hammer that did the beetle in.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/66%20912/DSCF0053.jpg~original (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/turbopics/media/66%20912/DSCF0053.jpg.html)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/66%20912/SP_A0083.jpg~original (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/turbopics/media/66%20912/SP_A0083.jpg.html)


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/turbopics/66%20912/SP_A0042.jpg~original (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/turbopics/media/66%20912/SP_A0042.jpg.html)


1966 912, fresh 3.2L Motronic with short geared 915, 2250lbs with fluids - no driver, 250 hp NA. Should be here in a week :D

Sandeep

[70Turbobug]

Sad to see you give up the beetle project,performance wise I think you´ll miss it ;) But I do understand and not beeing able to finish it in a timely manner is demotivating.Congrats on the 912! Seems to be a good base with a ton of potential! Keep us posted - I love Porsches!

[petevw]

You bought Adrian's car? Wow.

Hope you got it for a killer deal. He was shopping it hard and I was tempted a few times.

[Wally]

Pity to see and read this. The bug has loads more understatement and appeal to it.
Sorry to say, but that 911 is just one of many and also a project...

Still, I hope you'll finally get to enjoy a driving car mate ;)

[petevw]

Keep the bug.

Your children will grown up and in a few yrs you'll have time to wrench again.

Don't sell. Just hoard. :)

[Humble]

Trading one beetle for another ;) Honestly, I'd jump at the chance for a well built 60's 911 too, so congrats! One of the guys I race with has a dialed in 911 rs/turbo replica with a 3.6 and it's a monster.

[flat]

Awesome, congrats Sandeep. I love earlies...Makes me regret getting out of my 68 project, lol

Can't wait for my thrill ride

Lanner

[Sandeep]

Thanks guys !

Sad to see you give up the beetle project,performance wise I think you´ll miss it ;) But I do understand and not beeing able to finish it in a timely manner is demotivating.Congrats on the 912! Seems to be a good base with a ton of potential! Keep us posted - I love Porsches!

I've wanted a 911 / 912 for a long time now, just never had the opportunity to pursue it. I need a car I can drive and enjoy and this one fits the bill, classic looks with power to match.

The beetle was fun to drive (when it was together) but I've always wanted a f911 / 912, and now I have one.


Pity to see and read this. The bug has loads more understatement and appeal to it.
Sorry to say, but that 911 is just one of many and also a project...

Still, I hope you'll finally get to enjoy a driving car mate ;)

This 912 has been restored from the ground up. It has sat outside during the winter months because the owner did not have covered storage, but the foundation is solid based on the pictured of the restoration work. There are some minor paint bubbles and a few cracks in the fibreglass spoiler but all can be fixed without having to dis-assemble the car.

I'm really looking forward to driving it instead of re assembling my beetle. Maybe I'm getting too old, but only time will tell.

The only upgrades I am considering are Boxster brakes (for the circuit) but thats it. It has ventilated disks on all 4 corners, but I believe has 911 T calipers. Must keep the 15" wheels ! (did I actually say that ?? :D)


You bought Adrian's car? Wow.

Hope you got it for a killer deal. He was shopping it hard and I was tempted a few times.

Yes, Adrian's car. I love the look and actually test drove a '78 SC last weekend before going to see Adrian. I thought the SC was fantastic during the test drive, but a drive in Adrian's car blew me away.

I believe I paid a fair price for what it is, only needing some restorative paint attention. The car was up on a lift when I got to his shop so I could see underneith and I was happy with what I saw.


Trading one beetle for another ;) Honestly, I'd jump at the chance for a well built 60's 911 too, so congrats! One of the guys I race with has a dialed in 911 rs/turbo replica with a 3.6 and it's a monster.

Looking forward to running this car in an autocross and on the track. I've been waiting far to long to enjoy this.


Awesome, congrats Sandeep. I love earlies...Makes me regret getting out of my 68 project, lol

Can't wait for my thrill ride

Lanner

I love the look as well, will talk to you about the Boxster brake upgrade offline.

Sandeep

[petevw]

Nice!

Congrats, and have fun.

[owdlvr]

Nice! I know the car, considered it myself at one point.

-Dave

[Sandeep]

Engine now up for sale, more to follow,


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1508319

[Sandeep]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1508808

[volkdent]

Hate to start the parting out questions, but you know I've always loved those wheels....

Jason

[70Turbobug]

I would be up for those lifters ;)

[vw1303]

This is why us poor people put in subaru motors.....:eek:

It is an awesome setup though.

[70Turbobug]

This is why us poor people put in subaru motors.....:eek:

It is an awesome setup though.

Making the same power with a subaru may be cheaper for the engine alone,but most of the cost for such a project is setting the car up properly for such power.SubaruGears trans or all the adapters etc. with everything you you need will run you 5K also.I would rather stick with a G50 or mendeola for that price.Don´t get me wrong,I really like suby conversions and they make more sense in the long run,but it´s not really a whole lot cheaper anymore.Unfortunately the suby prices are rising rapidly also.