Mythbuster: continuing project thread of my 1303 '75 [Archive] - Page 2

owdlvr

December 29th 2009, 14:23

Regarding the 944 MC: I did a lot of hard thinking why the rears gave so little brake force, even with the 23/19 cups.
My conclusion at the moment is that maybe, just maybe, with the brembo alu calipers, the travel is less than on a floating-caliper with a 53mm cup as the older 944's had. That would mean that the fronts already have full contact while the rears have not fully engaged because the rear 19mm cup just isn't pushed any further in the MC...
Its also means that you just can't use the MC cup sizes to 'adjust' your bias! The MC cup sizes are there only to level out the travel of the cups in the MC, so its equels both front and rear to give the same travel/force.
Hope this explaining of mine makes any sense.

Wally,

Do you have a proportioning valve installed? I've got one on my rally car, for solving different issues, but it strikes me that it would be appropriate for solving your brake issues. Mind you, you're also at a stage where a full dual-master/balancing bar would be appropriate as well!

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1192/1450430585_626d89cd63_b.jpg

I put a lever-style prop-valve in the rally car, though you would probably find a rotating knob style (Wilwood) would suit you fine. I suspect you'll balance out the brakes the way you want them and then leave it, as opposed to the rally car which gets changed as the road conditions change. I've done the rotating knob style mounted outside of the passenger compartment in other vehicles, as they aren't adjusted 'once set'. In your case I would think you'd need to install it on your front lines, as opposed to the rear which is typically the case.

-Dave

Wally

December 29th 2009, 14:45

Hi Dave,

I have exactly that one in your pic ;)
But, its indeed connected to the rear and because the rear still doesn't brake enough, not much use of it. It just look slike it doesnt work in my car at the moment and I think I know wh now (see above).. I don't like installing these on the front as we already run without powerbrakes and it would just be a bandaid imo.

A dual master balancing bar would mean installing a complete pedal assembly and I have never seen one installed in a bug that I like.

It is sooo simple really: I just need to find a set-up that overbrakes the rear a little so I can adjust with the 7-step Tilton... How hard can it be right?...:o

Wally

January 2nd 2010, 13:06

So today I have engaged into removing some rubber from the rear banana-arms and spring plates so it can be replaced with monoballs, poly-bronze bushings and the occasional black graphite-urethane:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers014.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers012.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers025.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers016.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers019.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers021.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers023.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944draagarmrubbers026.jpg

Humble

January 2nd 2010, 15:15

ugh, I remember doing that job and it was no fun. I cut off as much rubber as I could from the spring plates then used a wire wheel for the rest. It took a whil but got the job done.

dub_crazee

January 2nd 2010, 15:34

thats absolutely hilarious - i did exactly the same today as im getting my stuff blasted and powder coated lol! new bearings and bushes throughout

ive been searching for the large 'doghnut' bushes for the spring plates but cant seem to find them - are the only replacements avaiable the poly bronze ones from the likes of elephant racing ?(

ricola

January 2nd 2010, 15:59

I got some from pelican parts for my speedster. I think Wally did it the right way for internal bushes, but like humble the wire wheel is MUCH faster for the outer ones...

dub_crazee

January 2nd 2010, 16:03

pelican parts was the first place i checked - maybe i was being blind! il check again.

i burnt the bushes off but i still need to get the remaining bits off - good idea with the wire wheel :)

Wally

January 2nd 2010, 16:32

ive been searching for the large 'doghnut' bushes for the spring plates but cant seem to find them - are the only replacements avaiable the poly bronze ones from the likes of elephant racing ?(

You can get pure urethane for most of it, but I read up on rubber, urethane, delrin, monoball and polybronze in the 944 world. Very interesting and hence my choices for replacements. Only inner busings from 944 don't fit the IRS beam, but other than that, most 944 stuff applies. Noise, quality, costs, pick your poison ;)

ricola

January 3rd 2010, 06:41

These ones?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-PP904834&catalog_description=Weltmeister%20Spring%20Plate%2 0Outer%20Bushing%20PB-017%20%282%20per%20car%2C%20sold%20individually%29 %2C%20924%2F944%2F968%20%28late%201978%20-%2095%29

dub_crazee

January 3rd 2010, 07:21

now i feel like a right fool haha i clicked on suspension bushings but not the next page - thanks mate

kuleinc

January 4th 2010, 15:43

I was looking forward to replacing all the rubber in the rear suspension, I take it the diagonal torsion bar thingy rubber replacement is a PITA then?

Wally

January 13th 2010, 14:57

In the meantime, the Heigo rollcage came in and I test fitted it today:
It really fits nice and is very close (good) to roof and the A- and B-pillars.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Heigokooi005.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Heigokooi009.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Heigokooi010.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Heigokooi011.jpg

volkdent

January 13th 2010, 15:47

OK, I REALLY like that fit, do a have a shot of the distance to the roof? Is there a US distributor for HEIGO?

Jason

Wally

January 13th 2010, 16:04

Yeah, here it is, but dificult to see because of the very contrasting white headliner and flash...In reality its snug against the headliner. I had to specify steel sunroof or not. Its that critical. Piece of german 'kwalität' ;)

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Heigokooi003.jpg~original

Sandeep

January 13th 2010, 16:50

That cage looks fantastic Walter, superb fit.

Is there a US distributor for HEIGO?

Check out http://www.fvd.us

I think I found a Canadian distrubutor as well :D

Sandeep

Wally

January 13th 2010, 17:19

The weight wasn't too bad either: the package was heavy as fock but the certificate showed it was 'just' 35kg's while I expected like 50 or 60 kg.

I think I'll just add one bar behind my head to mount the drivers side harness onto.

Jim

January 13th 2010, 18:26

This is very nice and safe addition in your car wally, it will be more stiffer now in the corners!

... and as i see from the photos it needs a little triming in the dash in order to fits nicely!

Rgrds,
Jim

wrenchnride247

January 13th 2010, 22:36

That is one sweet cage Wally. Very, Very nice!

Wally

January 14th 2010, 03:49

Tnx Jim.

... and as i see from the photos it needs a little triming in the dash in order to fits nicely!

Yeah, don't remind me... No gains without pains right? The fresh air supply will have to be rerouted some way as well...

Jim

January 14th 2010, 04:13

Indeed......without pain there is no gain!!

This is a picture of a friend of mine and his project and how it looks like after the surgery....it might helps you!

http://www.bugaru.gr/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/bugaru_63.jpg

Wally

January 14th 2010, 04:20

That is way too nice! :o

oasis

January 15th 2010, 03:38

As one who had asked about cages a while ago, this is great additional info for me. Very nice! Thanks.

Wally

January 15th 2010, 16:58

Received the uniball bushings and the polybronze ones today :D

They fit VERY nicely and precise!

I think I will try to fit the inside polybronze bushes as well as the inner circle of the 944 and bug torsion tube housing look to be the same.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944trailingarmupgrades003.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/944trailingarmupgrades005.jpg~original

ricola

January 15th 2010, 18:00

Nice, I'll be interested to hear how you get on with them!

wrenchnride247

January 15th 2010, 22:59

I'm officially jealous :rockon:

ricola

January 16th 2010, 07:13

Just a thought, will these inner uniballs work without mods on a bug chassis? I know the inner bushes are normally different but can't remember how exactly...

Also, what overall spring rate do you have at the back and how do you find it? I'm trying to work out roughly what springs to get for some coilovers in addition to the stock torsion bar...

Xellex

January 16th 2010, 10:30

also, it looks like the hole through the trailing arm bushes is too small. Are you using the stock beetle bolt, or the porsche (thinner) one?

Wally

January 16th 2010, 11:38

Just a thought, will these inner uniballs work without mods on a bug chassis? I know the inner bushes are normally different but can't remember how exactly...

Nobody tried that afaik...I noticed the outer diameter is (about?) the same. Difference is ONLY that the bug's torsion tube had 4 indentations (sp?), but I guesstimate that these urethane outer parts don't really need a 360 degree contact path to seat against... Only one way to try it right?
I had also ordered a set of bug IRS black urethane grommets, but Topline was out of stock at the moment and I want the arms back in... so I'll try the 944 parts first I think.

Also, what overall spring rate do you have at the back and how do you find it? I'm trying to work out roughly what springs to get for some coilovers in addition to the stock torsion bar...
Your quest/questions are the same as I have Richard...
All I know is the former 23.5mm bars were too soft for my heavy tranny/engine/intercooler/turbo and all that, so the logical next step was 25.5mm.
There is no more science to it than that ;)

Test and try, test and try.. Its a bitch, but someone has got to do it :lmao:

Wally

January 16th 2010, 11:40

also, it looks like the hole through the trailing arm bushes is too small. Are you using the stock beetle bolt, or the porsche (thinner) one?

I don't understand the q...

Xellex

January 16th 2010, 12:40

well, you know how the beetle trailing arm bolt has a bigger diameter than the porsche one, and that you need to pull out the porsche bushings and replace them with the beetle ones, to make that bolt fit through.
Now, from your pictures, that hole looks to be too small to use the beetle bolt. That's why I was wondering, if you made some modification to your chassis, to be able to use the porsche bolts :)

Wally

January 16th 2010, 13:17

That's why I was wondering, if you made some modification to your chassis, to be able to use the porsche bolts :)

Ah, yes, now I understand what your saying: yes, I did convert to the 12mm Porsche 944 bolt by welding in 12mm nut(s) deep within the forks ;)

Wally

February 7th 2010, 13:06

This weekend I have welded in the cage. Its not 'bolt-out' anymore, but the extra structural stuffness by welding the A- and B-pillars to the cage had my priority ;)
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Rolkooi002.jpg~original

Cage is really close to the A-pillars which I really like. It makes welding easy.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/kooilassen004.jpg~original

I made a bracket to bolt to the former seat belt mounting points so I can keep the head liner and inner trim intact:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/kooilassen002.jpg~original

Next making the dash fit...

dub_crazee

February 7th 2010, 13:45

looks like you;ve got your hands full there wally - the poly bronze bushes look interesting - im keen to know how theyl turn out for you this year :)

ive just fitted the weltmeister (sp?) ones to my spring plates - theyl do for now :)

out of interest have you considered uniball / coil over set ups.....i like the idea of the adjustability.

keep up the good work

deano

owdlvr

February 7th 2010, 14:18

Wally, regarding your A-Pillar mount you should consider re-doing this or removing it. You need a much larger bracket (on both the A-Pillar and Main Hoop side) to spread the loads. Small brackets break off the cage or a-pillar and become a significant safety issue.

Jim

February 8th 2010, 05:38

Wally, very nice job indeed ,but i agree with owdlvr for re considering the A-Pillar mounts and if the welding will be kept massive especially when the weight distribution changes drammatically in a race track.

Wally

February 8th 2010, 07:28

The A-pillar got two places now where it is attached to the body: one midway (top door hinge) and up top, just before the head liner begins (the one in the picture). The B-pillar is connected as pictured.
I really fail to see how and why this would tear off other than in an accident...:confused:
Could one of you two explain how a force great enough, even in 'extreme driving' could/would cause this?

I would really need to see that happen to believe it myself, so I am NOT going to weld in any bigger supports, but do thank you guys for the concern. It would help though if I could picture it why/how your scenario could arise.

Not to mention I have seen this near exact way of connection in some welded 911 cages/cars, at least the A-pillar points and welds..:confused:

MX67

February 8th 2010, 07:41

Wally, You will not use slicks, I assume (at least for now), so I can't see why would this welds break. They will be OK.

But, using slicks with alot of grip and applying too much force can tear those tiny connections off.

It ususally breaks when breaking hard. I was driving many race cars and those cages have more welded connections.

owdlvr

February 8th 2010, 13:09

I really fail to see how and why this would tear off other than in an accident...

I can't speak for the others, but _my_ comments were in reference to the tab on your b-pillar breaking off in an accident. They have the potential to kill you if they do break, as it leaves an exposed cut piece of metal. I doubt you would find a racing body that would log book a cage with those tabs, as they aren't safe. Considering a cage is for safety, those small tabs are going backwards.

Your A-Pillar welds don't pose a safety concern, so there is no problem there.

You are correct that plenty of cages tie the main hoop into the b-pillars, but the surface area for attachments should be much larger. Here's an EVO6 cage (sorry for the small photo) that should give you some idea of the surface area used at the contact points:

http://www.fourstarmotorsports.com/Portals/0/Images/Core/FSM_RollCage_4_290x218.jpg

-Dave

Wally

February 8th 2010, 13:47

I can't speak for the others, but _my_ comments were in reference to the tab on your b-pillar breaking off in an accident. They have the potential to kill you if they do break, as it leaves an exposed cut piece of metal. I doubt you would find a racing body that would log book a cage with those tabs, as they aren't safe. Considering a cage is for safety, those small tabs are going backwards.

Ah, see what you mean now Dave. I'll look into it.

Tnx,
Walter

Wally

February 10th 2010, 14:14

Getting the dash adjusted for the cage bars:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Dashopkooiaangepast010.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Dashopkooiaangepast011.jpg

Trial fit of the dash:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Dashopkooiaangepast015.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Dashopkooiaangepast016.jpg

Humble

February 10th 2010, 17:06

This is the kind of cage I had in mind! Awesome craftsmanship! I really want one of these cages now.

I can't tell from the pictures but how long are the welds on the A-pillar? I like the bolt in nature of the B-pillar additions and I don't think they will break free, but they will probably bend and deflect.

Wally

February 10th 2010, 18:50

This is the kind of cage I had in mind! Awesome craftsmanship! I really want one of these cages now.

I can't tell from the pictures but how long are the welds on the A-pillar?

Thanks man! welds are not long enough probably, but I stopped at about 2 to 3 inches. That was also the length of which they were really close to the body, so that coincided ;)

verbeekb

February 10th 2010, 18:51

Jim

February 11th 2010, 04:54

Well done Wally!!!

TSAF

February 11th 2010, 07:57

Nicely done Wally

typ4boy

February 11th 2010, 09:00

Hey man;) here is your front top mounts, just waiting for the bottom struts to come back from the platers and the hole lot can be shipped mate :D
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/lard_1968/P1000066.jpg~original
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/lard_1968/P1000065.jpg~original

Wally

February 11th 2010, 10:24

Awesome Lee!

I have a track day on the 5th of March, so with any luck, I could try them out on the track after welding and aligning.

Looking forward to using those ;)

TIA,
Walter

evilC

February 11th 2010, 13:18

Wally

February 11th 2010, 14:54

Wally, the fit of the cage is awesome! As good as any I have seen anywhere including the factory race cars. I assume that the cage legs sit on reinforcing plates as it isn't quite clear in the photos. Also is there a cross brace at bottom dash level and if so is that point braced back to the A pillar?

Tnx, yeah, the front pillars sit on reinforced boxes. Those boxes are welded to the channels and the pillar is bolted to the boxes.
No, there isn't a brace under the dash with these bolt-in version. If you order the weld-in cage, there is is iirc and also braces to the top strut mounts. The weld-in involves leaving your car at Heigo, so that may be a little problamatic for most here ;)
I did consider making the under dash bar myself, but that would involve some redirecting of certain drains to make that possible in a nice way. The harness bar I will weld in afterwards however.

I still can't get over how tight your front cage is to the A pillar - it's brilliant. Just don't break a windscreen!

Ah, yes, the windscreen was really my concern when welding the A-pillars up top there...fortunately, the laminated and green tinted windscreen survived :)

Tnx,
Wally

Wally

February 11th 2010, 15:29

Hey Walter,

Somewhere I saw you mounted polybronze bushing on your spring plates. Someone mentioned the lack of the knobs that are on the VW bushings, you replied that you were going to give it a try. I feel the same way, yet, I have new Porsche springplates with the stock vulcanized-on rubber bushings, everyone replaces them with the VW parts, but since mine are new I'd just like to use them the way they are and not bother with them.. have you had problems without the knobs?

Hi Brian,

I haven't driven the car yet, but there is a significant difference with what your asking/suggesting and what I am/will be running:

The original bugs inner torsion housing has not only the holes for the knobs of the bushings, but the whole outer diameter of this torsion housing where the bushing resides, is concave in shape!
The 944 inner torsion housing is plain, so a circular bushing fits perfectly.
Now, we want a plain, straight (rubber) bushing to fit the concave housing... Thats the reason it doesn't exactly fit. The knobs are just 4 parts where the bushing doesn't mate flush, but thats minor imo.

However, the 944 bushing does mate the VW torsing housing at one point exactly and thats the most inner part of the concave part of the housing.
So, the bushing sits at just half a cm snug and not the full 5 cm or about 2 inches (width of bushing approx.).
Now, with the hard poly-urethane outer rim of the poly-bronze bushing I use, this may just work (or not). I also filled up the rest of the space with a sort of hardening glue. With an already soft original rubber bushing, this is much more of a concern I would think.
The whole idea that you are using porsche parts for suspension upgrades, but are keeping the rubber bushings and now let one of the bushings carry on only its outer rim in the housing, is counterproductive regarding thinking about suspension upgrades imho.

So, in conclusion, I think a black urethane VW IRS inner bushing would be a good upgrade from the stock rubber. The red urethane usually squeecks too much for my taste and the black may not squeeck or less. I have bought (very cheap, Topline) a set already if the inner polybronze doesn't work, but the set is too nice not to try it out at least ;)

Hope it made sense; difficult to describe from here...

michael86

February 11th 2010, 16:00

Your car is definitly ready for elevens this year.:-)

Tiki

Wally

February 11th 2010, 17:46

Your car is definitly ready for elevens this year.:-)

Tiki

Thanks Michael!

Now the question is: Is yours??

evilC

February 12th 2010, 08:52

Hi Brian,

.............. I think a black urethane VW IRS inner bushing would be a good upgrade from the stock rubber. The red urethane usually squeecks too much for my taste and the black may not squeeck or less. ..............

The squeaking of the urethane bushes is down to the formulation. The common bushes from Bugpack etc are formulated for hot Californian use in that the amount of the self lubricating silicone fluid that leeches from the urethane is noticeably less in cold climates. If the squeak is a problem then the use of 'local' urethane bush suppliers ought to solve the problem.

Clive

michael86

February 12th 2010, 15:49

Thanks Michael!

Now the question is: Is yours??

I have good hopes

Michael

Wally

February 14th 2010, 11:44

As some of you mentioned, there isn't a 'harness bar' with this set-up, nor can it be ordered, so made my own. Also adapted some of the interior parts and placed them back:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Kooiklaar001.jpg~original

Wally

February 14th 2010, 13:17

And to show what the extra bars are for:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Gordelbevestiging001.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Gordelbevestiging002.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Gordelbevestiging004.jpg

owdlvr

February 14th 2010, 14:46

Nice! That's the ticket.

I assume you haven't installed that harness 100% yet, just for photos?

-Dave

Wally

February 14th 2010, 15:15

Nice! That's the ticket.

I assume you haven't installed that harness 100% yet, just for photos?

-Dave
I know this is a trick question right? :lmao:

What can be done better?, pls spill it out already ;)

owdlvr

February 14th 2010, 15:42

Your harnesses aren't "finished up" around the harness bar. The end of the harness strap needs to wrap back over and into the clip. This "locks" the strap and ensures they cannot come loose.

From my rally car:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/53/134621261_7689e4f7fa_b.jpg

If you were to leave your harnesses as you currently have them, in an accident the strap can slide out of the clip and you'll lose the shoulder belts (not good!). You need to follow the instructions on page 24 and 25: http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf I wouldn't worry about the wrap instruction on page 27, it's difficult to do and the style on pg 25/25 is perfectly fine if you have the clips close to the bar like you do.

Looking at your harness I think you may need to go back to Schroth and/or the shop you bought them to get harnesses that have longer shoulder straps. It's a pretty common request, so I don't think you'll find them difficult to get.

Can you take some photos of your lapbelt mounting? Might as well tell you if they're safe at the same time ;)

-Dave

Wally

February 14th 2010, 16:25

Good points! Yeah, they are actually a little too short for my liking as well.
The red ones are bought second hand on ebay, but look like new. I may probably better install the black 3" ones as they are long enough (a little too long actually).
The red ones are 6-point ones also. I have the bottom part as well, but no point installing that one as the seat hasn't got a hole for it..
Tnx!

Humble

February 14th 2010, 19:11

Dave nailed it before I could but yeah you should re-do the shoulder straps if you can. Also, I prefer a submarine strap (5 or 6 point harness) mainly because they help keep the waist belt from riding up. If you switch to a 3" belt you may want to get belt pads if you have wide shoulders. I'm 24" across at the shoulders and my 3" belts really wear on my traps.

TSAF

February 16th 2010, 04:36

Wally are those Recaros SR?

Wally

February 16th 2010, 13:55

Yes, I believe so, but its only one, it was cheap back then and it will be replaced sometime in the future by a lighter bucket seat.

TSAF

February 17th 2010, 04:40

These are the same seats that were used for the E30 M3 Evo III.

Wally

February 19th 2010, 08:28

TSAF

February 19th 2010, 09:25

Very good and very light as well.

evilC

February 19th 2010, 09:38

This will replace it. Luckily, the alu seat brackets I had for years, also fit the Sparco's :D:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Overig/DKR-Sparco005.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Overig/DKR-Sparco006.jpg~original

The Evo2 Plus was the only Sparco that I could get my bum in also! ;) The English (Corbeau) and German (Recaro) seats also cater for the broader beam as I can testify.:D

Wally

February 19th 2010, 14:14

The Evo2 Plus was the only Sparco that I could get my bum in also! ;) The English (Corbeau) and German (Recaro) seats also cater for the broader beam as I can testify.:D

I hear you bro :D I just couldn't afford the Recaro...

Bug@5speed(US)

February 19th 2010, 14:28

Corbeau club sports, I have used with success on the track, with a 6pt..

Also like them since I am a "large" figure type of guy..

Not fancy but fit the bill and were effective for some club/track event type events.

I really want to save up for the FX or FX Pro, which is a fiberglass shell, and come in wide. They are nice but not sure if FIA cert if that is an issue.

Incidently, I was reading that shortly they were changing the FIA specs for seats.. just something to consider if your doing club racing or similiar where it may be imporant.
VR
Alex

typ4boy

February 19th 2010, 15:39

Custom L.A.P struts for 18"rims all done sir, will mail you for shipping details mate will be going out tuesday of next week.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/lard_1968/P1000075.jpg~original

Wally

February 21st 2010, 13:38

Testdrive today with self-made camera mount and the new seat: Wheelspin in 2nd and because of that I shifted in 5th...:o
Car is very itchy without an alignment and without Lee's new struts ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjWGEO925S8

I also need to zoom-in next time, so the lighting will be adjusted better and you see the road better (I hope). Still, it worked better than I thought :)

owdlvr

February 21st 2010, 16:12

That video makes me want a more powerful engine ;)

-Dave

NO_H2O

February 22nd 2010, 00:20

Looking good Wally. Love the Vids.

Wally

February 22nd 2010, 02:39

Looking good Wally. Love the Vids.

Thanks! I hope to be able to shoot some more now this works so well during the upcoming events (track-day 5th march and drag race 14th march)

Forgot to explain: gauge low row, utmost left is boost, the blue light coming on during boost is the activation of the water/meth injection and the flashing orange light means my waterinjection mixture is low. The warning signal is however way above sucktion level, so not too much worries there ;-)
Center top is oil temp and that was very low (60 Celcius) and didn't come higher during longer driving. Outside temp was around freezing point (0 Celcius).
Its probably wise to get the oil thermostat back in line one of these days...

alindeman1989

February 23rd 2010, 22:31

can you show me pics of how you are mounthing the seats in the car. like pics with the seats all bolted up and what not

petevw

February 24th 2010, 00:13

Nice upgrades Wally!

70Turbobug

February 28th 2010, 12:31

I just can´t say it enough...I love that car!! For me at this point the absolut bench mark in the vw scene.A powerful,driveable and reliable car and looks great,too. One could think,350HP made easy.. well done Wally ;)

Sandeep

March 4th 2010, 10:22

Looking fine Wally !

Question for you ... can you switch between boost setting maps with the DTA, while you are driving ? Perhaps by a switch or button ? One setting for , say 10 psi (stun) and one setting for 20 psi (kill) ?

Thanks

Sandeep

Wally

March 4th 2010, 12:57

Question for you ... can you switch between boost setting maps with the DTA, while you are driving ? Perhaps by a switch or button ? One setting for , say 10 psi (stun) and one setting for 20 psi (kill) ?

Thanks

Sandeep
Hi,
Yes, with the S60 model it works like you described.
I haven't gotton to that myself though.
The boost control map can almost do the same, but then rpm and trottle position dependent. So, half throttle you develop 10 psi and full throttle can gradually 'drive' through the map towards your setting of 20 psi or whatever. This is basically what a electronic boost control does is my understanding.
Again, an however...: the idea of the PWM boost % map is brilliant, but to get the right psi at a certain % is a lot of tuning. Without a dyno this is a PITA and bringing in different temperatures/tunes into the game, it becomes even more difficult to get a steady boost pressure.

There is a very tricked out PID control boost regulation in the ecu as an alternative to the PWM map method though, but no-one a spoke to seems to have it working...

Sooo, I probably still 'have' to invest in an aftermarket ebc...when does it ever stop...?

70Turbobug

March 4th 2010, 13:47

I can imagine that tuning by that method is tedious,it might be easier to use a stand alone EBC even if you do decide to go with the PWM map method.The ECU I will be using also has an integrated boost controller that can be adjusted by the touchscreen pad display in the dash.These are all problems I still have to encounter,though.But i am looking forward to it! :D

Sandeep

March 4th 2010, 14:19

Thanks for the information Wally. I have an AEM Tru-boost currently, but was trying to decide to sell it or not. I will keep it and see how the S60 tuning goes.

Once the new heads and cam arrive, I can start building the motor ... still need to decide on a straight cut cam gear though.

Unfortunately, it never ends ... :eek:

Sandeep

paul_f

March 4th 2010, 14:53

I have a theory about how to setup these boost maps on the DTA that we are going to try on my friends beetle when he has it running again.

You really need a dyno to set it up, and a ignition cut set on the ECU at the highest boost you will ever want to run.

The tuning of the PID will only work if the target map is set to a real value that can actually be reached.

So the target map needs to be defined well. The way to do this is to disconnect completely the wastegate (which is why you need the boost ignition cut) and do a full load run logging the boost pressure against engine speed until you get to the max boost level.

From this log, you can then work out the actual maximum boost that the system can attain and this curve (or perhaps a little lower boost per engine speed) must be used on the DTA.

By doing this the actual PID will be able to work correctly as it is trying to control to a boost level that is actually attainable.

If you request a boost level that is not able to be obtained, the I term will wind up, causing massive instabilities in boost pressure when the engine speed reaches a level where the engine can meet the required boost.

Wally

March 4th 2010, 17:21

I have a theory about how to setup these boost maps on the DTA that we are going to try on my friends beetle when he has it running again.

You really need a dyno to set it up, and a ignition cut set on the ECU at the highest boost you will ever want to run.

Paul,

Trust me, its no fun when you have set the overboost (your 'highest boost you will ever want to run') on 1,6 bar/24 psi and repeatingly the ecu cuts out your ignition violently at 1,6 bar (24 psi) whilst trying to run 18/20 psi.
Its either wastegate boost or overboost cut-out. The window is simply too small.

This turbo EASY goes to 2 bar/30 psi on my motor in just a few hundred rpm. It already overshoot to 1,8 bar/26 psi. Áll this is NOT funny I can assure you. How the engine has survived all the violent cut-outs still surprises me.
So, you see, getting an 'attainable boost' really is not my problem ;).

The tuning of the PID will only work if the target map is set to a real value that can actually be reached.

I advice you keep the tru-boost for now Sandeep ;)
I really like DTA and it has one of the most advanced PID control algoritms on the market or so I understood, but personally I haven't seen anyone get i working properly, not even the professionals on the DTA-forum...

So, good luck Paul and let me know when you have succeeded, then I would really bow my head to you :rolleyes:

paul_f

March 5th 2010, 08:57

HI Wally,

I think you misunderstand me a little.

You only run this test once, and this is only to tell you how the boost rises against RPM.

At 4000rpm you can easily attain 1.6 bar, but at 1500rpm you will struggle to make 0.5bar, 2000 maybe 1 bar.

If you set the DTA demand curve at a higher boost pressure (ie 1,6 bar at 2000rpm) than the engine can attain then the controller will wind up, so then it is to slow to open the valve which causes the overboost.

With its single calibration for P I and D I doubt the DTA can be made to work to do everything. I personally would only initially use it to try to eliminate wastegate creep.

I don't know what makes it particularly advanced, but from the available calibrations it looks extremely simple to me.

For the PIDs I work with, we tend to have 10x10 maps with additional multiplication maps to make them work correctly.

If you have the means then a standalone boost controller would definately be an easier route with more likelyhood of success.

Wally

March 5th 2010, 12:31

Wally

March 5th 2010, 15:15

So, in absense of an ebc, I just deleted all settings and ran on wastegate today at our first trackday of the year. Its was COLD!
Track was partly covered in ice we we arrived early in the morning...
First session was a wet track, the 2 session afterwards were dry. Yesss!
Had great fun doing easy laps driving/learning the lines. New rear brakes bedded in nicely, but fronts still block first. Maybe also semi's up front as a next tire choice.
Still with the old struts, and the thicker rear torsion bars get my thumbs up! All in all a good test day :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tq_m04LZreM

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Gerlachfront.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Gerlachuit.jpg~original

fahrvergnugen

March 5th 2010, 17:16

You've bin very busy Wally, well done:goodjob:

Wish my car was ready for track day's. Hope to drink some Hertog jan with ONN again this year.;)

Paul.

Wally

March 5th 2010, 17:24

Cheers Paul, me too!

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Braking.jpg~original
Big tnx to Franc fo taking the pics in that cold winter day :)

volkdent

March 5th 2010, 18:22

Wally

March 6th 2010, 05:31

You've made me jealous! I've got to wait till the end of this month to attack Laguna Seca. The bug won't be ready by then, but at least I can get on the track!

Looks like you had a lot of fun, are you thinking about adding dual master cylinders and a balance adjust feature?

Jason

Driving on Leguna Seca would make me jealous Jason! ;)

Yeah, your right: dual masters and balance bar would be the best solution for me at this point. The installation however would involve things I rather don't like to do, so I'll try to postpone this decision...

Wally

March 6th 2010, 12:12

Hey Sandeep, Paul,

You guys won't believe this: I have the PID control working! :D:D:D

I do use a Volkswagen N75 boost control relais, so my settings will not automatically transport to other boost control relais, but if you also use the N75, lemme know, I'll mail you my settings in the S60 ;)

paul_f

March 6th 2010, 12:40

Excellent news!

The settings would be very useful.

Humble

March 6th 2010, 14:23

I'm an hour away from Laguna Seca, Jason you should stop by on your way down. It'll give you a chance to drive on my favorite roads :)

70Turbobug

March 8th 2010, 04:41

Hi Wally! Great video! You said you were running on the wastegate only? Still very fast..

Wally

March 8th 2010, 04:52

Thanks, well, yes on wastegate, but mind you, this is already 14.5 psi wastegate :D
Acceleration was very fast, but cornering speed was just so-so as I didn't want to take any chances ;)

Sandeep

March 8th 2010, 12:03

Great news about the PID and great video Wally !

My brother just bought a 2007 Audi RS4, so I have to keep up with that now, track day is scheduled for June 26th ! :eekno:

Looking forward to more incar video from you :D

Sandeep

effvee

March 10th 2010, 22:49

Walter, what head work have you done or had done? Very good results, congrats.

effvee

March 10th 2010, 22:50

Walter, what head work have you done or had done? Very good results, congrats.

Wally

March 11th 2010, 04:22

Walter, what head work have you done or had done? Very good results, congrats.

These are the 'old' heads from my former 2,7 and have 46x40 valves and some smart porting done to them, mostly based on airspeed, so not very large ports.
They are a 35 year old 914 2.0 casting and no welding was done.
In N/A form they flowed 220 hp...

Wally

March 14th 2010, 11:15

Today I have broken two (!) original type 4 8mm rockers during a dragrace meet...
Can't figure out how this could have happened, but no further damage was done to the engine: no bend pushrods, no bend valves. The latter really surprised me, as how the heck can these rockers break otherwise??

Whats wrong with this picture?:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Fiets003.jpg~original

The weirdest thing: I exchanged the broken rockers for two 'new' ones and the engine started on 4 cylinders and has the same compression as before...
I am totally puzzeled how this could have happend, but count my blessings as the engine runs fine now again...pffft.

dub_crazee

March 14th 2010, 12:33

Bizarre!!! Glad there was no damage! Put any decent runs in before the damage?

Wally

March 14th 2010, 13:49

Bizarre!!! Glad there was no damage! Put any decent runs in before the damage?

Not really, it happened on the 2nd run. First run was a track-sensing 12.8/181km/h, but I had hoped for an 11-run this day...:(

michael86

March 14th 2010, 14:51

Could it be a age related that the rockers broke.
The material getting brittle over the years.
I've never seen this before.

Glad it was only two rockers and no more damage.;)

Tiki

Humble

March 14th 2010, 15:27

That's really strange that it snapped off 2 rockers in the same fashion on the same cylinder. It's amazing there's nothing else wrong, you really lucked out :)

Wally

March 14th 2010, 16:25

That's really strange that it snapped off 2 rockers in the same fashion on the same cylinder. It's amazing there's nothing else wrong, you really lucked out :)
Yeah, I did huh?

Might indeed be something like metal fatique Michael, but you would have thought this would have happened to others then too? Never seen it before and especially not at two on the same cylinder...
I am still very much puzzeled by the whole thing.

effvee

March 14th 2010, 21:42

Better go back to basics. Seems like a lot of pressure on the nose of the rockers. What kind of spring pressure are you running? No spring coil binding? I would have thought your push rods would have bent before the rocker did that? Maybe have a very close look at the other springs for spring binding. This is pure luck that you did not damage this engine, very good luck:eek:

NO_H2O

March 14th 2010, 22:10

Scatching my head too. Glad you didn't hurt anything but the rockers.

owdlvr

March 14th 2010, 23:45

I guess the rest of your rockers are suspect now?

I wonder if a dye kit would help confirm the rest are good to use. http://www.indanc.com/flawfinder_layout_ink.php

-Dave

wrenchnride247

March 14th 2010, 23:52

You are very lucky Wally! Glad that's the only damage done.

Sandeep

March 15th 2010, 08:17

Wow ! I'm glad there was no other significant damage to your engine ! That is a very puzzling break for sure.

Sandeep

Jim

March 15th 2010, 08:45

I'm glad you have past this with the less cost effectiveness.

70Turbobug

March 15th 2010, 14:28

It is odd that 2 broke on the same cylinder.I´ve seen that happen on V8 cars that ran into the rev limiter on their burnout,it happened to my Mustang back in 1992.I broke 3 rocker arms due to valve float when I ran into the limiter (set it lower after that;) ),but they were all on different cylinders.Other than that,I would say that they just wore out and broke,stress cracking and fatigue. But very lucky indeed that it didn´t take a bunch of other parts with it!

Clatter

March 17th 2010, 03:49

It's just too coincidental that they are both on the same hole side by side...

Detonation?

Evil Detonation, specifically?:)

Wally

March 17th 2010, 05:56

It's just too coincidental that they are both on the same hole side by side...

Detonation?

Evil Detonation, specifically?:)
No, its not from detonation, that I know for sure as I had the vid running showing the knock sensor not sensing knock when it happend.

Mark, its not from 'worn out' reasons either as no wear is visible. Wear by definition should always be measurable/visible. Not likely either as they run on DLC treated rocker shafts...
But I do also think pure metal fatique could be the most likely cause, probably combined or caused by a does of bad luck from coinciding ignition and/or fuel cut-outs all at once and overboost cut-outs during the tuning I did the days before. These are/can be rather violent.
I have no other explanation as these original rockers are really considered as 'unbreakable' otherwise.

Steve C

March 19th 2010, 00:18

Hi

I'm no metallurgist, could you take them to maybe a local aeronautical engineer and ask their opinion.

Steve

owdlvr

March 19th 2010, 01:42

I've done a bit of failure analysis in the past, doubtful I could tell from photos but if you post closeups of both sides (broken side) I can at least take a look.

-Dave

vwdreaming

March 19th 2010, 14:38

something 4 the trophy shelf

Wally

March 19th 2010, 16:15

I've done a bit of failure analysis in the past, doubtful I could tell from photos but if you post closeups of both sides (broken side) I can at least take a look.

-Dave

Difficult to photograph so up close. This is the best I could do:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Tuimelaarskaputt001.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Tuimelaarskaputtski.jpg~original

Yeah, the trophy shelf has another exibit for sure..

Wally

April 17th 2010, 16:15

After replacing the two rockers by another set of used rockers :D , the engine ran flawless again yesterday on the Ring.

http://www.pistonspy.com/gallery2new/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=292863&g2_serialNumber=3

http://www.deinerunde.de/Nordschleife%2016.%20April%202010/album/slides/IMG_4298.JPG

http://www.uedn.de/nos/T16042010/Images/DSC_0081.jpg

http://www.uedn.de/nos/T16042010/Images/DSC_0134.jpg

Also put some video up of the day on a vimeo account:
http://www.vimeo.com/user3613136/videos

chug_A_bug

April 17th 2010, 17:48

what a GREAT video and some nice driving too ;)
keep it up man
Chris

Wally

April 17th 2010, 17:56

Well, not so sure about the driving, but you can really check out the place this way and it shows what a great wheather we had!
Vimeo has an upload limit....so I'll try to upload some other footage onto my y-tube account:
www.youtube.com/user/fusca03

Oldskool1303

April 18th 2010, 23:10

I just read through your whole build and your car is just AWESOME.. :goodjob:

dub_crazee

April 19th 2010, 07:48

amazing pictures again wally :) looks like you;re havin great fun with the car!

Luismj

April 19th 2010, 11:15

Wally, In this picture where is the spy cam?

http://www.uedn.de/nos/T16042010/Images/DSC_0134.jpg

(You have fun too!) :cool:

Thanks

Wally

April 19th 2010, 12:10

Wally, In this picture where is the spy cam?

Well, the idea of a spy cam is, that you cannot see it :lmao:

But its just on top of the inside rear view mirror in that picture ;)
On the vimeo vid its on the right side running board (so then it was outside the car), but removed of course in the above picture.

NO_H2O

April 19th 2010, 22:55

Very nice tour of The Ring. Thanks from all of us who can't tour it for ourselves.

Wally

April 20th 2010, 03:08

Very nice tour of The Ring. Thanks from all of us who can't tour it for ourselves.

Well, I did have Cam(bell) from Australia and his girl-friend as a passenger, who were on vacation in germany and this date was set purposely so he (and his GF) could drive a lap with me.
You just have to plan it well (and a bit (actually a lot) of luck with no failures and the weather) :)
But your very welcome of course.
Just a pity that i couldn't make it last year when Pete was over.

70Turbobug

April 20th 2010, 05:19

Great videos Wally!! Thanks for the much needed motivation! ;) Haven´t had much luck lately..

Steve C

April 22nd 2010, 07:52

Hi Wally

I'm very interested in trying one of these spy cameras, is the running board footage the only one taken using this camera? Can you post6 a link to other footage?

Steve

Wally

April 22nd 2010, 08:21

Hey Steve,

Yeah, on the former page is a link to my youtube account; the vid before the last uploaded vid is the best wrt aiming the key chain holder onto the road haha!

NO_H2O

April 22nd 2010, 12:57

Well, I did have Cam(bell) from Australia and his girl-friend as a passenger, who were on vacation in germany and this date was set purposely so he (and his GF) could drive a lap with me.
You just have to plan it well (and a bit (actually a lot) of luck with no failures and the weather) :)
But your very welcome of course.
Just a pity that i couldn't make it last year when Pete was over.
I will keep that in mind. I might show up over there one day.

Wally

April 22nd 2010, 14:49

I will keep that in mind. I might show up over there one day.

Pls do. Its always a pleasure to have like minded people over and the passenger seat/space has been upgraded lately ;)

Steve C

April 23rd 2010, 17:42

Hi Wally

Thanks for that I will get one now, I think a fixed mount so that the correct aiming can be setup would make for repeatable results.

Steve

Sandeep

April 25th 2010, 08:44

Nice tour of the 'ring' Walter !

What size of injectors are you now using ? How is the duty cycle ?
I have 600cc/ min injectors currently but am looking to upgrade to 850cc units. Are you using low or high impedence injectors with the s60 pro. ?

Thanks

Sandeep

Wally

April 25th 2010, 08:55

What size of injectors are you now using ? How is the duty cycle ?
I have 600cc/ min injectors currently but am looking to upgrade to 850cc units. Are you using low or high impedence injectors with the s60 pro. ?

Thanks
Sandeep

I was using 660cc Siemens, but was seeing 96% IDC when experimenting with a little over 16 psi and 6,5K rpm... and I already bumped the fuel press to 4 bar before that..
So I got myself a set of ID1000's. They are Bosch but made for Injector Dynamics. VERY good injector. Highly recommendable if you get past 660cc as they made the car start even sooner and have great idle also.

Just get these, trust me, you won't be diappointed and they don't cost more than lesser injectors (=pretty much everything else's injector, but thats just my limited experienced take on it).

Always high impedance of course ;)

Xellex

April 29th 2010, 13:12

Wally

April 29th 2010, 13:41

Wally, I was wondering, what car is your tacho from? Now that I have a 911 tach in front of me, I realised yours looks more like a 911 unit than 914. I also found this website about the 914 tachometers, and yours doesnt seem to fit in that description:
http://www.p914.com/p914_gauges_tachs.htm
I'm curious if I could fit the 6cylinder tach on the 4cylinder engine (and make it show the real RPM).

Good eye mate!
Its indeed a 911 6-cyl tach that has been converted to 4-cyl. The car doesn't get its name from nowhere you know ;) "You cannot use a 6-cyl. tach" Hehe, yes you can ;)

Xellex

April 30th 2010, 04:47

http://www.marijnbosch.com/mitropafiles/MythBusted.gif

So, how did you do it? :D I'd like to be able to use the 911 tachometer also.

Wally

May 5th 2010, 10:47

http://www.marijnbosch.com/mitropafiles/MythBusted.gif~original

Excellent! Like it a LOT :D

So, how did you do it? :D I'd like to be able to use the 911 tachometer also.
It was handles by a specialised shop locally. I am not that handy with electronics :rolleyes:
There is a gauge specialist in germany also (Peter Fett, Fett-electroniks.de or s/th) that surely can do it.

Last week I started something I am thinking about for a long time. So, just did it and went to fabricate a rough shape out of cardboard and when it was somewhat ok-ish, made a better one out of 5.5mm plywood.

Its a 'splitter' and turned out like this (in primer now, will be painted black):

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Splitter001.jpg~original

I have no idea if it will work as I think it could be, but only one way to find out huh?

volkdent

May 5th 2010, 14:00

Great minds!!! I did mine out of ABS plastic, heavy but durable, that I would make a mold of and make from CF/Kevlar if I like it. I'm worried that in normal daily driving it is going to be too beat up.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/531922.jpg

The front leading lip is an extra I purchased years ago for my E36 M3. I think its funny that my bug is as wide as the almighty M3 now!

Jason

chug_A_bug

May 5th 2010, 15:54

very nice wally ;)
I have been thinking the same and even doing a whole underbody just to try to smooth out the air flow under the car..
just need the time and $$ to do something that big tho... lol
can't wait to see it done and on the car :)
Chris

judgie

May 6th 2010, 08:34

when i put the splitter under the front of the race, same as you used 10mm ply board for mine and about the same shape.it made huge differance in high speed turn in. did have raise my static ride hight abit to allow for reduction in high speed ride hieght. with that and the f3 lola rear wing i run i was getting about 25mm lower ride hight above 75mph so it was doing somthing.

Wally

May 6th 2010, 15:23

Thanks for the encouragements guys!
when i put the splitter under the front of the race, same as you used 10mm ply board for mine and about the same shape.it made huge differance in high speed turn in. did have raise my static ride hight abit to allow for reduction in high speed ride hieght. with that and the f3 lola rear wing i run i was getting about 25mm lower ride hight above 75mph so it was doing somthing.

Thanks for sharing your experience Rob!
So, I guess it will probably do 'something' huh? 25mm lower ride height at 75mph :eekno:
Lets see, I run around 130 mph at some parts of the track, so I better make some extra reinforcements... especially since its only 5,5mm thick, not 10mm :rolleyes:
I just painted it black, now drying out :)

Oh, the carbon front disks finally seem to work ok, so I hope they stay like this.
Hopefully coming weekend I can make a pic of the tray under the car. I may you guys help on how the ends should look like as the ends are much wider than the Kamai.

judgie

May 7th 2010, 04:27

the first mounts i made for it out of 5mm alloy broke after about 10 miles of use i had to seruiosly beef them up. in the end i ran 8mm alloy mounts from the front bumper mount down and then a 25x25x5 alloy angle running the full width at the front. I could stand on it in with the new mounts :D
first pic is what i had and the second is what i run now. I'm going to put a splitter on the new one as it worked so well on the old one.

evilC

May 7th 2010, 05:01

Rob, if you're getting a 25mm compression @ 75mph that equates to 260lb of downforce at your spring rates! That's very impressive for a bug.

One suggestion though - put a couple of castors under the splitter to stop it bottoming out. lol.

Clive

judgie

May 7th 2010, 13:03

it really suprised me how much it was going down. when i ran with no areo stuff on it to when i ran with the big rear wing and the front splitter, i didn't change anything on the suspension and i was getting rubbing on the front splitter and exhaust at speed. had to raise it up approx 25mm all round to stop it. the early pic's of the car at speed show the front lifting a lot, like 30/40mm which ment it wouldn't turn in at speed lol. with the big rear wing and splitter it made 6 seconds differance up prescott!
want to try a proper rear defuser as well for next year to try and clean up the rear air flow from around the engine gearbox. shoiuld be ok with this as i dont do any runs that are longer than 1.5 mile so the heat build up is not to bad. when i ran a rear defuser before on the road i noticed a marked increase in oil temps.

Wally

May 9th 2010, 15:55

I got the plate painted black and made all the brackets for support, so trial-fit time. You can also see the alu profiles I used for added stifness of the plate.
Just need to think of something for the end pieces. Was thinking of an sloping upward piece for added downforce. Any ideas?
The ends will be connected to the bumper ends with a bar afterwards.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Splitter1sttry006.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Splitter1sttry001.jpg~original

petevw

May 9th 2010, 16:59

Pretty cool Wally. :thumbup:

Wally

May 11th 2010, 13:25

Just fixated the ends with some bars I welded quickly so they won't flutter at speed (hopefully) and I can drive/test this contraption.
Just fixed two boost leaks from my central (self made...) boost line box...(oeps) Maybe that will fix the 1 bar boost limit I seem to keep experiencing, but I doubt it.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Endplatesupport005.jpg~original

70Turbobug

May 13th 2010, 09:00

Looks great Wally! I think it will work well also.I´m not sure if the cable attached to the bumper will hold up.The cable isn´t the problem,but I fear the bumper may bend at high speed,you might need a more stable mounting point,like the mounting bracket for the bumper inside the wheel well.

Wally

May 13th 2010, 11:29

chug_A_bug

May 13th 2010, 14:06

nice work Wally.. so lets see the video :D

Chris.

zen

May 13th 2010, 14:30

I've debated internally about a splitter for a long time and just never did anything with it. Good to see you guys moving forward and providing some insight. I don't need more to do, but you are tempting me.

Sandeep

May 13th 2010, 15:09

Thanks! Yeah, your probably right as it all hangs now on the front bumper brackets. It would be better to support it a to the inner fenders as well probably.
Anyways, I did a test run today with the splitter for the first time and ... it stays put very well already :-))
Even above 200 km/h it doesn't bend too much at all. Very happy with that.
I got a youtube vid uploading now that should show how stable the splitter is.

Furthermore and MOST importantly I finally got the EBC working! It turned out I had a wire not connected at all.. (oeps)
I now can run a stable 1.3 bar (19-20 psi) boost.
I was so happy that I scheduled a new dyno run for coming saturday. Really, really curieus is or what extra hp this will give.

Fantastic developments Wally ! I always wondered what / how a splitter is / works ... looks pretty cool, and looking forward to see the video.

Are you talking about a seperate EBC other than the DTA ecu, or are you using the PID algorithm ? I thought you were using PID .... Hoping you hit 400 FWHP on the dyno :notworthy:

Best of luck.

Sandeep

Wally

May 13th 2010, 16:06

Fantastic developments Wally ! I always wondered what / how a splitter is / works ... looks pretty cool, and looking forward to see the video.

Are you talking about a seperate EBC other than the DTA ecu, or are you using the PID algorithm ? I thought you were using PID .... Hoping you hit 400 FWHP on the dyno :notworthy:

Best of luck.

Sandeep
Yes, I am pretty stoked its working properly. Its a stand-alone EBC (Gizzmo) after all, as I got tired playing with the settings in the DTA. The problem may have been the original volkswagen 1.8T N75-boost relais, not the DTA...
The boost relais supplied with the Gizzmo is very different and they claim its for better control. They might just be right. The original VW N75 relais may just be an on/off relais, while these are more easy to (PID) control.
I noticed the boost relais on DIYauto.com (?) looks a lot like it and I would advice to get that relais and try the DTA ecu-control again with that one.
There are so many variables which influence proper boost control, its not even funny... Other example: I changed out the original boost line from the relais to the compressor housing (very small inner diameter) to a bigger boost line and connected it to the boost box where all other lines come together: less boost at waste-gate setting!! The smaller line already caused a 0.25 bar boost drop, so inversely made boost better controllable (bigger line) by the EBC when it was working finally.

Still, the possibilties with the ecu are cool too. Especially the duty map (open loop) dependant on TPS and RPM is nice if you want half boost at half throttle for instance. No stand-alone EBC has that possibility afaik.

The vid had to be reloaded...just stoppd loading for some odd reason. I have had the spy camera mounted to the underside of the bumper aimed at the splitter and part of the Kamai...

Wally

May 13th 2010, 17:13

Its processing now, but this is the link for later:
Very boring vid, but it was just for myself testing the splitter movement relative to the bumper. Speed was just about 135 mph at some point so I know now that it will stay together for most applications ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rg4sjWuuY6Y

Wally

May 15th 2010, 11:16

Had another run on the rollers today after I finally got a stable boost regulation working.

She made ....381 Hp at 6650 rpm and 20 psi (1.35bar) :D
Torque was 456 Nm or about 337 lbs.ft (at 5300 rpm)
No engine problems at all, cool running and drove home again :D:D

I wanted to see if the CB hats were lifting at this boost, so I made a small vid of the engine bay during this 20 psi run. Don't see anything moving at all, so thats probably a good thing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hf9GfPYoW0

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/381horsepowerrr003.jpg~original

volkdent

May 15th 2010, 13:59

ricola

May 15th 2010, 14:05

Congratulations, those are some good numbers!

Rich

vdubzack

May 15th 2010, 14:53

Daaamn It man, I'll never catch up now!

Sandeep

May 15th 2010, 20:35

:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

Sandeep

NO_H2O

May 15th 2010, 21:49

Sweet numbers Wally. I have thought about a splitter like that myself too.

Wally

May 16th 2010, 05:07

That is just awesome!!! I love your torque/power curve, looks like a lot of fun. Congrats on all your hard work over the years, I'll always give you a hard time when things let go, but in the end you've worked diligently to prove the relative reliability with big air-cooled power on a controlled budget. Hats off here!

Jason

Thanks Jason!
But I must comment on the "relative reliability" part :rolleyes:
If you referring to the broken rockers, they were just a tuning fault of mine running the engine into overboost and getting hard fuel cut-outs and associated backfires.. The funny part is just that a lot of ancillaries have gotten damage (bend throttle plates, burst boost lines, two broken rockers) due to the boost-cut-outs but the long block is still solid as a rock.
The basic concept of this type of engine has proven itself beyond doubt.
Furthermore, I ran the 350 hp tune over half an hour mostly WOT, full-on at a race track (Zandvoort). I did the same doing 8 laps of 10 minutes per lap (21 km's each lap) on the Nurbürgring last month and your calling this 'relative reliability'? Come on man, just admit I totally detroyed your reason for running a watercooled engine alltogether :lmao:

But I love you too and truely appreciate your craftsmanship on your car ;)

Its totally amazing that the 103 cast-alu bored Mahle-Oettinger cylinders held up as much as they did, while we all know that a smaller bore would have been much better.
Stock case, stock heads, stock crank and stock rods. "relative reliability'...pfft please! Aircooled FTW! :lmao:

70Turbobug

May 16th 2010, 11:36

Very impressive Wally!! As said many times before,the evolution of your car is phenomenal! :notworthy:
I don´t think it will be long before we see 400HP!! Were the bent throttleplates in the Jenvey TB?

Wally

May 16th 2010, 11:52

Thanks; I think I could have gotten the 400 with a little more agressive tuning, but the current map is very safe and good enough then ;)

Yep, they were from the Jenvey TB's. Not the Jenveys fault I must add ;)

I also bleeded some air from the Hurst line lock which made a pleasent difference on the drive to the dyno especially since I am trying out the ceramic front disks again:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Chassis/Dyno22T4THRengineering011.jpg~original

volkdent

May 16th 2010, 16:09

Thanks Jason!
But I must comment on the "relative reliability" part :rolleyes:
If you referring to the broken rockers, they were just a tuning fault of mine running the engine into overboost and getting hard fuel cut-outs and associated backfires.. The funny part is just that a lot of ancillaries have gotten damage (bend throttle plates, burst boost lines, two broken rockers) due to the boost-cut-outs but the long block is still solid as a rock.
The basic concept of this type of engine has proven itself beyond doubt.
Furthermore, I ran the 350 hp tune over half an hour mostly WOT, full-on at a race track (Zandvoort). I did the same doing 8 laps of 10 minutes per lap (21 km's each lap) on the Nurbürgring last month and your calling this 'relative reliability'? Come on man, just admit I totally detroyed your reason for running a watercooled engine alltogether :lmao:

But I love you too and truely appreciate your craftsmanship on your car ;)

Its totally amazing that the 103 cast-alu bored Mahle-Oettinger cylinders held up as much as they did, while we all know that a smaller bore would have been much better.
Stock case, stock heads, stock crank and stock rods. "relative reliability'...pfft please! Aircooled FTW! :lmao:

By "relative" I only mean that 100k Km from now if you've continued to have no major issues I'll be flying over to have a pint with you! It's super reliable, just not sure it's super reliable compared to modern engines. I'm not worried at all about running 350hp for 60k miles on a modern h20 cooled car, it's reliability over time that garnishes the "relative" comment. When that myth is busted (notice I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt!) I really think you need to write down all the things you've don, settings you use, and parts you've used because to me it seems like the perfect combination. Wish I had the skill and knowledge to be able to pull off what you did. Especially when it ends up sounding so awesome on the track!:D

Jason

Wally

May 16th 2010, 16:56

Hehe :cool:
60K miles or km's driving on the road using the car as a daily is totally meaningless for the engine with regard to stress and load imho. Its the track driving at mostly WOT and/or full boost what counts.
I think I put more stress on my bug's engine during the 5K or so I drive it per year then I do on my Passat that I drive 30K per year...

But I am also sure, I don't ever convince you right? :)
Which is just as well probably, as I don't have anything to sell ;)

petevw

May 17th 2010, 01:43

Congrats Wally, that's a badass bug you have on your hands.

Just watched your splitter, engine, and ring1/3 clips, AGAIN! :lmao:

Pete

70Turbobug

May 17th 2010, 04:14

I agree with Wally on that one.1000km of racing is like 10,000+km of daily driving.The wear on the bearings,rings,etc. at high rpm and high loads for long periods of time has an effect on every engine,no matter if it´s water cooled or not.Another thing to consider is modern engines are primarily made to keep emissions,fuel economy and production costs at a minimum.In the 70´s german manufacturers used casting and forging processes that are unaffordable by todays standards,that´s one reason why the type 4 case and bottom end is so strong.As long as the temps stay "in the green",there´s no reason why Wally´s type 4 shouldn´t go the same distance as a Subaru with the same horsepower.The materials are not as different as you think,actually most modern engines use inferior metals and/or metalurgical processes to keep production costs down.

volkdent

May 17th 2010, 21:15

But I am also sure, I don't ever convince you right? :)
Which is just as well probably, as I don't have anything to sell ;)

I love it!!! Well let me tell you, after all the good things that have come out of your engine storys, you are making a very good sale, so maybe you should sell something. I wouldn't have thought about doing an aircooled again until you've shared your experiences with us. Even spending more on some more sturdy parts would still net a lot of power for the money. If I ever got another car I didn't want to cut up I would seriously consider copying your setup.

Thanks again.

Jason

Wally

May 26th 2010, 12:28

Thanks for the props Jason! really!

Some vids of the last (Nurburg)Ring outing (16th april), tnx to John, the 'CNCwizzard' and Robin aka 'Blue thunder':

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF2gL_LlP7Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hc7ezxzMDs4

Lots of pics from then too from the Adenauer Forst turn:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1070.jpg~original
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1069.jpg~original

Cam from Aussie-land contemplating if he should...:-)
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1059.jpg~original
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1481.jpg~original
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1499.jpg~original
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1594.jpg~original
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1601.jpg~original

johnnyvee

May 27th 2010, 10:47

sic

NO_H2O

May 27th 2010, 13:25

Very nice. What a place to take a spirited drive.

70Turbobug

May 28th 2010, 07:32

It is a beautiful track,but those looks can easily kill.It´s quite a challenge to drive at high speed and is very tricky,bumpy and slippery in places.But it is also the ultimate thrill imho,21km of pure adrenalin :D

Wally

May 28th 2010, 07:37

I totally agree Mark. Did you ever drive there?
You should really ride shot-gun with me there sometime this year if/when we go again ;-)

Wally

May 28th 2010, 08:49

Flowing shot of 1/8 take off on street tires:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6801.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6802.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6803.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6804.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6805.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6806.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6807.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6808.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_6809.jpg

On video (onboard) the run looked liked this:
1e run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVrA77tr66c

2e run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSVtLXheaRA

Scotts73SB

May 28th 2010, 18:02

Awesome the way that car sits.. those tires and rims look beautiful too!
Great pics too!

vdubzack

May 28th 2010, 18:10

Wheeeeee!!!

chug_A_bug

May 28th 2010, 20:50

very nice as always wally ;)
but I see you weren't running your "NEW" splitter?? on the ring...
BTW it's Sounds Soo MEAN in boost :D

Chris

Wally

May 29th 2010, 04:29

but I see you weren't running your "NEW" splitter?? on the ring...
Chris
Hey Chris,
The splitter is just a (very) recent development and the Ring pics were from april 16th. The 1/8 mile drag on the Assen track were from last monday ('bank holiday' over here) ;)
I _think_ it does really help. Car feels indeed more 'planted' at high speeds. The Kamai is better held in place (rock solid) by the splitter as well. Since the Kamai was probably not designed for speeds over 130 mph, if for nothing else, just the rock solid mounting of the underside of the Kamai, was worth the fitment of the splitter imo.

Last vid (promise :lmao:) from the 1/8 mile at Assen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVx6rfWGVOg&playnext_from=TL&videos=AFhEFEjSe6U

70Turbobug

June 4th 2010, 11:03

I totally agree Mark. Did you ever drive there?
You should really ride shot-gun with me there sometime this year if/when we go again ;-)

Yes,I´ve been on the Ring twice riding shotgun in a 911SC and drove once with a suped up Golf 1 GTI.Nothing in comparison to your ride though.So,if time permits I would be more than happy to take a ride with you on the ring!! Thanks for the offer!!:D

Wally

June 6th 2010, 08:09

Well, I take it rather easy on the Ring, but driving there in a bug is much more fun :)

Yesterday I drove 325 km (200 miles) to Bitburg, ran 8 low 12-second runs and drove the 200 miles back home.
Best pass was a 12.04 at 114.8 mph, but it turned out that my clutch was slipping everytime boost came in hard...so no 11's still :(
I was very amazed the clutch holded it as long as it did, but obviously the dynorun in one single gear is a lot different then running slicks and letting the torque loose. My 60 ft times were therfore rather poor (1.9-2.0). First tun was a 1.77 but that was at a lower boost.

One of the runs (more on my y-tube account):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clsjH8uGd4s

On the way home on an unlimited part of the german Autobahn I let the car run, trying out if the front splitter helped at all. Last high speed run was a little scary, but this time it still felt rather stable. Unfortunately a bend in the road (which was taken well over 200 km/h) and traffic made me not prolong the run. Boost was about 17 psi. Towards 5800 rpm in 5th gear the digital speedo read a max of 220 km/h (137 mph):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jTdDENIXwY

dub_crazee

June 6th 2010, 16:37

awesome wally - shame you didnt make the 11s though! i bet the guy in the merc was a bit suprised to see a bug fly past at nearly 140 mph :D

judgie

June 7th 2010, 04:08

i was amazed at the differance the front splitter made to high speed stabilty on my race car. it will be having a new one for next year when it comes back out.
shame you missed out the 11's but you know there in the car.

NO_H2O

June 7th 2010, 07:31

Looks to be smooth at 137. I might just have to cut one out for my car.

70Turbobug

June 12th 2010, 07:28

Wally

June 27th 2010, 13:21

Clutch is clearly at its power limit... :

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/6-puckmetallic9inch002.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/6-puckmetallic9inch004.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/6-puckmetallic9inch006.jpg

Wally

June 27th 2010, 13:28

Great vids Wally!

The car looks very stable at speed,nice set up! With that gear/tire/HP combo you can crack the 250Km/h.Armin ran 257 Km/h (digital speedo aswell) with my 90kg ass sitting along side.Rpm was approx. 6200 with a 225/50/15 tire 3.44 r+p and 0.82 4th.
boost was about 1.2 bar.Wastegate was set at 1.3 bar.

Mark,

257 km/h is sort of crazy in a beetle on the highway/autobahn. I recalculated and that is 251 km/h, which is close enough. Crazy...how does his stay stable for that? He runs less aero then I do, but his car is also less wide, so maybe that helps some to gain the speed. Still, over 250 km/h is wow!

Sandeep

June 27th 2010, 21:12

Wow !

Is that a 6 puc Kennedy unit ? Have you looked at a dual disc setup ? I believe there is an advantage to 4 friction surfaces vs two for your power level. I'm looking in to it as well.

Sandeep

Clutch is clearly at its power limit... :

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/6-puckmetallic9inch002.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/6-puckmetallic9inch004.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/6-puckmetallic9inch006.jpg

Wally

June 28th 2010, 14:44

Yep, that is, or better - was- a Kennedy 6-puck semi-metallic unit and a Sachs Race-engineering HD 228mm clutch (probably stage 2-ish).

They couldn't make me a organic twin-disk set-up (too thick), but instead I had to get the semi-metallic twin disk set-up with a G50 center. Hope it will still be driveble. Short of a stage 3, there are no options, so I went for that one.
I ordered it with a stage 1 pp. We'll see if we can get it round my shortenend G50 spline...

Luismj

June 29th 2010, 21:12

wally,
One friend use this clutch (made usa) in one drag beetle with 900+ HP.
He said it was very good. What do you think about this?

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/luismjr/Disco.jpg~original

Not found exactly the same on the internet. But the link below have one sample.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/SPEC/Clutch/Clutch_Kits/Euro_Stage_5/7263

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLKqW74agE

JK Fab

June 29th 2010, 22:26

That is a black magic clutch disc. A lot of higher HP vw guys use that disc with a stage 1 plate.

vdubzack

June 29th 2010, 23:29

That is a black magic clutch disc. A lot of higher HP vw guys use that disc with a stage 1 plate.
I love this disc!!! Used to drag with, and can be freshened up by media blasting after a few runs. Almost like new. A little harsh on take off, but locks right up. Less harsh I found if hydralic clutch is used. also check out the Gene Berg dual friction disc.

Wally

July 1st 2010, 05:16

What is better than one black magic disk?

Two of them...:rolleyes:
Apperently kennedy use these to make their double disk set-up.
This is what came in yesterday:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/kennedytwindisk003.jpg

70Turbobug

July 1st 2010, 06:17

That should work;) Looking at your pics makes me realize once again what drag racing does to components...

Mark,
257 km/h is sort of crazy in a beetle on the highway/autobahn. I recalculated and that is 251 km/h, which is close enough. Crazy...how does his stay stable for that? He runs less aero then I do, but his car is also less wide, so maybe that helps some to gain the speed. Still, over 250 km/h is wow!

Actually,he has no aerodynamic "helper" whatsoever. A fairly standard suspension up front with Bilstein(?) gas shocks,beam supports and Rememle´s uniball rear suspension with stock steel trailing arms.Maybe he sits a little lower to the ground than you due to the 15" wheels? The car was very stable,felt like we were doing 130-150Km/h.

Wally

July 1st 2010, 16:01

FPR and -6 AN upgrade:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/SARDRJ002.jpg~original

and of the fuel rails (drilled and tapped for 3/8 NPT):
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/-6ANfuelrail001.jpg~original

Supa Ninja

July 2nd 2010, 00:43

Wally, I'm loving the progress your build has made, sweet!

paul_f

July 2nd 2010, 07:25

Where do you take your MAP from Wally, have you drilled and tapped the manifolds?

Cheers
Paul

Wally

July 2nd 2010, 08:29

Tnx Ninja,
Where do you take your MAP from Wally, have you drilled and tapped the manifolds?

Cheers
Paul
Yes, tapped all 4 ports and have them come together in one box with some more fittings for MAP sensor, waste-gate, EBC, BOV and fpr. 9 connections in all therefore...:shocked: ;)

70Turbobug

July 3rd 2010, 06:36

Now I know what I wanted to ask you Wally..where did get those thick gaskets for your manifolds and throttlebodies?

Wally

July 3rd 2010, 07:36

Now I know what I wanted to ask you Wally..where did get those thick gaskets for your manifolds and throttlebodies?

Those were made (machined) from hard plastic 18mm kitchen top material by a friend of mine.
Mc Gyver style ;)

70Turbobug

July 3rd 2010, 09:00

Really?! That´s pretty cool! I would have never thought of that! I hope your wife wasn´t too hard on you for cutting a chunk out her kitchen top :D

Sandeep

July 3rd 2010, 09:10

Great upgrades Wally. All appropriate for a 400 hp " 20 min Ring " beetle :D

Sandeep

Wally

July 10th 2010, 05:01

Finally I got all parts to install the Sard FPR:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Sardfpr001.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/SARDconnected003.jpg

Tnx Sandeep; spring 2010 is already behind us, how is your engine comming along?

70Turbobug

July 10th 2010, 12:45

Cool! What did set your fuel pressure at? Will you have change your maps or can the DTA adapt and still use the current maps?

paul_f

July 10th 2010, 12:53

Wally will you leave you fuel pressure gauge in place or will you remove it?

I have the same one, but it says to only use it for setup only and to not drive with it fitted on the box

Wally

July 10th 2010, 14:33

Mark: it was about 3,5 bar, but the closed loop fuel control of the DTA ecu can easily make little fuel changes if fuel presure will be different ;)
Wally will you leave you fuel pressure gauge in place or will you remove it?

I have the same one, but it says to only use it for setup only and to not drive with it fitted on the box

Yep, the same text was on this one. The gauge was very cheap, that FPR wasn't :lmao:
Not sure yet if I will try it out on longer runs, but I might just remove it and plug the hole after the fuel pressure is original again.
Good eye!

Machined flywheel for the twin disk set-up just before it went in:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Flywheelmachinedfortwindisk001.jpg~original

Wally

July 14th 2010, 13:40

Reinstalling engine pics:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Zomer2010024.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Zomer2010025.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Zomer2010010.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Zomer2010027.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Zomer2010029.jpg

I wanted to connect a port from the header to measure turbo beack pressure. From am idea of a good friend of mine, I used an old brake hose to saw off the coupling and just used a regular copper-alloy brake line to connect it to:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Motoren/Zomer2010017.jpg

chug_A_bug

July 14th 2010, 16:29

looks great as always man... btw your dog is Sweet looking :)

Chris.

Pablo

July 14th 2010, 16:34

I see a new addition. Have you had trouble with the fan belt jumping off Walter?

Paul

Wally

July 14th 2010, 17:54

I see a new addition. Have you had trouble with the fan belt jumping off Walter?

Paul

Good eye Paul. Yeah, it ran fine for two years beating the sh*t out of the engine revving to over 7K, but at the last drag days this year, the belt suddenly came off, mainly in the burn-out box when the rear suspension bogged/squatted.
Hopefully this will keep it on, even in 'abnormal' conditions.

Yep, love my english springer spaniel. We have always had those for as long as I can remember ;-)

Engine runs again and the twin disk seems to engage pretty easy and gentle. Much to my surprise I must admit. It only rattles from the center plate like an old Ducati when the clutch is depressed. Oh, well :)
Tomorrow test drive to work I was thinking :D

Wally

July 18th 2010, 06:41

Test drive went fine: clutch engages really not different than the former one, which is great!
Backpressure is about 50% over boost pressure, which gives great spool but seems a little too restrictive for this 2.2 liter engine.

I need a bigger turbo! :D (again..:o)

Next weekend is Spa Francorchamp 'Le Bug show'! Can't wait to finally be allowed to drive the whole track.

NO_H2O

July 18th 2010, 08:14

Good to see you have overcome the clutch issue. That set up should get the power down. Have a good trip to Spa. I hope to see an in-car video of a lap of Spa.

fahrvergnugen

July 18th 2010, 08:14

Next weekend is Spa Francorchamp 'Le Bug show'! Can't wait to finally be allowed to drive the whole track.

Hey Wally, good to hear that the clutch works.
We'll be camping on the Spa grounds, maybe you can come over and share some thougts (and beer):cool:

Cheers Paul.

Wally

July 18th 2010, 12:52

Definately Paul! I'll be getting there sateurday morning early and camping wit Franc(o).
CU there!

Wally

July 18th 2010, 16:23

Good to see you have overcome the clutch issue. That set up should get the power down. Have a good trip to Spa. I hope to see an in-car video of a lap of Spa.

Good idea, I'll bring the camera down and put it on its pedastal on the cage.
Will be the first time I an allowed to drive on the Spa track since I know have (Clarcson speak:) scaffolding in the back :lmao:

Sandeep

July 20th 2010, 21:30

Tnx Sandeep; spring 2010 is already behind us, how is your engine comming along?

I have all of the parts to put the long block together, and all of the induction system, and electronics but still have to build a horizontal fan set up.

My biggest issue right now is finding a twin spark knock control system, and until I find something that exists / works like a J&S, I am not in a rush to build :(

PLEASE post some video of your runs at SPA.

Sandeep

Wally

July 21st 2010, 14:17

My biggest issue right now is finding a twin spark knock control system, and until I find something that exists / works like a J&S, I am not in a rush to build :(

Good thinking. By now I know its almost only one thing that breaks a turbo engine and that is knock, so I hear you loud and clear. Wish I could help you with an idea, but I haven't got one yet..

No worries about the vid of the track driving. I hope somebody also films from the stands so you can see more bugs driving by on the track :)
I have the Water/meth tank filled up, brought some spare 98/93 with me and am packing my camping gear.

And I hope it will stay dry weather...

Wally

July 25th 2010, 16:37

It just doesn't get any better then this...

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMGP3704.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/LO7P1750.jpg~original

Saturday was a 'mildly moist' condition and I did 1,5 hours of non-stop track driving.
Sunday was a beautifull day at Spa and track driving in the dry was so much more spectaculair. We drove one hour full on and the engine held in at only half an hour as it was already then short of fuel (25 ltrs gone)
I only filmed saturday as I left the camera running till the disk was full (26 minutes). Unfortunately, that also doesn't work with youtube (max 10), so I'll have to cut it somehow. Will take a bit ;)
But its just great to see the Race Taxi coming in your mirror and overtake you at Spa :D

The track is 7 km long and soooo beautifull. Its like a small version in length of the Nurburgring, but a bigger version as far as the track width and corners are concerned.

skywalker

July 26th 2010, 04:55

It just doesn't get any better then this...

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMGP3704.jpg

That's a great picture Walter! :goodjob:

Finally we shook hands. It was nice to meet you, although the circumstances were not as good as above picture. I'm glad we together could fix the clutch problem and you could drive home!

When you drove next to Erik near Arnhem and you lift the gas pedal a huge flam left the exhaust. :eek: Awesome view tho.

Erik promised not to make any pictures, so I did. :D

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r170/V0lksr0d/Forum/spa2010.jpg~original

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r170/V0lksr0d/Forum/spa2010-2.jpg~original

Wally

July 26th 2010, 05:20

Haha! Yeah, I was very lucky you guys 'Mc guyvered' me out there. Muchos gracias again!
Was indeed cool meeting you guys, alyhough circumstances could have been better. I actually made it just till home as on the driveway, the clutch pedal was too far gone again and had to push the car into the garage the last 5 meters :lmao:
Well, I have 2 weeks to find the hydraulic leak ;)
The driving back with 3 fat chicks in a row on the highway was great fun. I must say Erik kept a pretty decent average speed :D
Great pics too! Funny thing is: 2 days of full-on track driving and all goes well. I cruise home and all stupid small ancilleries crap out on me...

One more, cause it was such a thrill to be there:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMGP3706.jpg~original

Steve C

July 26th 2010, 07:25

Hi

Great photos, Eve saved them for my screen saver, cant wait to see the video.

Did you talk to Race taxi? I met him in Sydney when he was down here doing a course in English, he was also taught to swear by some friends of mine, great guy.

Steve

NO_H2O

July 26th 2010, 07:29

Great to hear you made it there, drove the track 2 days and drove home. Very nice pix. I bet it was nice to be on track with the Race Taxi. Spa is one of my favorite track to watch a race.
The question must be asked. Did you lift thru Eau Rouge?
Thanks for the pix. Can't wait for the video.

Wally

July 26th 2010, 07:42

No, I didn't really talk with him Steve, he was very busy with others and so was I with strapping down my passenger and all.

No, I didn't just lift for eau rouge, I braked there on sunday when the track was dry! Your comming down from a hill full-on power with quite high speed. I usually brake before corners..., especially if you have no downforce. In the wet we even felt the car having 'a moment' in the right hander just after the dip upwards, so I knew then I found the limit already.
As I was running behind the Race Taxi for a moment, I saw his brake light come on there too, so I didn't feel too bad about it haha!

This was the Holzapfel Overfly engine that was in the Cup car of Thomas Wöhr. Nice guy, showed me around on this car ;-)

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Events/IMGP3434.jpg~original

Wally

July 26th 2010, 11:40

From saturday (wet) shot from some-one else's car (great footage):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz9OAKwjVq0

Sunday (dry) line-up before the start:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/Events/Spa.jpg~original

Wally

July 26th 2010, 12:10

Is it a plane? Is it a bird?
No, its the mythbuster :lmao:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=179GA97x778

Wally

July 26th 2010, 15:06

Finally got the last part of the saturday (moist) onboard lap uploaded:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84WNyusrIxc

And this is how it looks from inside the race taxi on the dry sunday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfbsM56H9tk

Here's a view of a group of fast track Bugs driving on sunday. Now, where do you see that?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jvhwl_tpVBE

Spa was absolutely great this year!

SilverBullet

July 27th 2010, 10:08

WoW!! Love the sound of your car flying by Wally!.
Like a fly pass! Solid!!

Wally

July 27th 2010, 12:24

And thanks to Blizzard for shooting from the top of the building onto Eau Rouge:

Walter

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p207/blizzard1974/Spa%202010/?action=view&current=IMAG0047.mp4

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p207/blizzard1974/Spa%202010/?action=view&current=IMAG0051.mp4

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p207/blizzard1974/Spa%202010/?action=view&current=IMAG0060.mp4

All drivers (behind the pace car for the first two laps) on saterday (wet):
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p207/blizzard1974/Spa%202010/?action=view&current=IMAG0044.mp4

NO_H2O

July 27th 2010, 14:21

NICE Videos as always Wally. Your car looks, sounds and runs great. That lap in the Race Taxi looks like a blast too.

70Turbobug

July 28th 2010, 04:49

Man Wally - you are having entirely too much fun! :D But you deserve it;) I love the onboard video - it sounds so awesome when you really get into it.Thanks for the motivation again - gives me some more hope for getting mine finished..

Wally

July 28th 2010, 05:34

Man Wally - you are having entirely too much fun! :D But you deserve it;) I love the onboard video - it sounds so awesome when you really get into it.

I hear you and your totally right of course, but it did take me 25 years as a privateer to be able to do this. Sometimes people see only this and don't know or tend to forget (not you of course) what was all needed to get there ;)

Humble

July 28th 2010, 11:45

Great videos dude! Love to see the car getting flogged on the track. Getting some hot laps around SPA is on my list of to-do's wherever I get over there. That ride in the "taxi" looks pretty fun, did it have much body roll to speak of? That thing looks pretty planted in the corners.

Wally

July 28th 2010, 12:17

That ride in the "taxi" looks pretty fun, did it have much body roll to speak of? That thing looks pretty planted in the corners.

None, not at all. That must also be the reason the box goes round corners so well. Acceleration wise, that could be had with just more power I reckon :rolleyes:

Wally

August 9th 2010, 13:52

Finished the fuel upgrades by adding a catch tank. Sounds easy, but involves a lot more than you'd think. Adding an extra fuel pump (blue one my former pump) to fill the catch tank, making space for the tank itself, which meant rotating the water tank in my case and adding another return to the original fuel tank, which meant taking out the tank and welding the return onto it (after all the precautions of course).

But very happy with the outcome, which also involded placing all fuel pumps and the filter under the dry-sump tank, so I had no fuel up front in the wheel well anymore, which feels safer in case of a head-on collision.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Catchtank001.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Catchtank004.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Catchtank006.jpg

Low pressure fuel lines have stuck-on fitment, but all high pressure fuel lines are now screw-on type (AN).
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Catchtank007.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/Catchtank008.jpg

NO_H2O

August 9th 2010, 14:29

Nice looking work. As always.

Sandeep

August 9th 2010, 17:05

Looking "busy" up front Wally :D

How do you like the camber/caster plates ?

Sandeep

Wally

August 9th 2010, 17:21

Caster plates (thats how I had them welded anyways ;-)) work well, but more would have been even better as I now have about 3-3,5 degrees caster from 1-1,5 degrees before. Yes, they only did about 2-2,5 degrees, but positioning them any further was not really possible as you can see.
I think its my M030 axle pieces that give negative caster over stock, but idk for sure..

Wally

August 15th 2010, 09:02

Nürburgring Toursitenfahrt August 14th:

http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee115/NynkeRace/14082010TF/303.jpg

http://www.scirocco89.de/coppermine/albums/140810/DSC_281.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1123.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1705.jpg~original

NO_H2O

August 15th 2010, 09:40

Nice pix Wally. I see you have a new addition on the rear. How did it work?

Wally

August 15th 2010, 12:24

Nice pix Wally. I see you have a new addition on the rear. How did it work?

Hard to tell..only way to find out how well it really works is in a windtunnel and none of us have the resources to do that.
In reality, I would have to drive just over the limit and feel the car break out, then repeat under the exact same conditions with it...just not practical. It stayed on :) and my theory and gut feeling says it should work. Had great traction all day and the car felt really good, better then ever before, but tbh, I really dunno how much that relates to the rear wing.
Just copy what Porsche does with their GT3 RS and GT2 RS cars and you can never be far off I suppose. Plus I had no budget planned for this and just used my old aircooled.net spoiler and extended it so its out of the way of the intercooler and more in the air stream that leaves the roof.
That wasn't much help actually huh, was it? :)

Wally

August 15th 2010, 13:16

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w112/fusca03/1303/IMG_1513.jpg~original

NO_H2O

August 15th 2010, 13:37

Confidence counts for alot. If it feels like its working and your mind says its working and you have the confidence to push it a bit harder. It must be working (in one way or another).

Humble

August 16th 2010, 01:35

You might have to play with the wing a bit to get a good feeling out of it. Mine is little more than a picnic table at 70" wide and 12" cord but the difference was immediately noticeable. For a smaller spoiler you might need a more aggressive attack or to add a gurney flap to really make a difference.

Steve C

August 16th 2010, 05:47

Hi Wally

Maybe you could try the old wool tufts trick to see what the air flow is doing over the spoiler, you could probably see most of it in the rear view mirror or try using one of your cameras to film it.

Steve

Wally

August 16th 2010, 17:06

Thanks for the pointers guys!
I think that a proper wing-shaped wing (?) instead of the plate-type it is now will make loads of more downforce, but for now the wing gets off again as I get the car prepared for some drag racing again at Santa Pod coming 5/6th september ;)

It was a really busy/crowded day as it was a saturday and the weather was extremely beautifull for a change. So lots of photografers there too :)

http://www.uedn.de/nos/T14082010/Images/DSC_0112.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QWgHq4tCVDE/TGhXwW9ICYI/AAAAAAAAAjk/UnL8ZTnLmzc/P8148671.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QWgHq4tCVDE/TGhXuB-mOnI/AAAAAAAAAjg/h0v9u6xaiok/P8148670.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QWgHq4tCVDE/TGhbZqpzrdI/AAAAAAAAAqw/XYb9fIt4FpE/P8148831.JPG