I used a section of pipe for the rocker shaft pivot. If you don't have any head leaks, no need to remove them. Use the tool to compress the springs. You can rotate the engine to almost TDC. Then stuff parachute cord down the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine a bit more to snug the cord against the valves (don't force it too much). The cord will keep the valves seated while you remove the springs. Remove the keepers, retainers and springs and replace what is needed. Double check the keepers. Rotate the engine back to remove the pressure on the cord and pull the cord back out the spark plug hole and move on to the next cylinder.

Just did this on my engine, for all eight sets. If you have an air-compressor, I highly recommend trying to find a spark plug hole adapter that allows you to put 120psi of air into the cylinder to hold the valve up vs. the parachute (nylon) cord. It's a pain trying to get enough cord into the cylinder. I managed, and did all 8 in about two hours...but it would have been easier/faster without that cord.

-Dave

I will try and find one of the spark plug adapters when I do it. I'm still torn as to whether I even need to replace the springs, but just to be sure I think I will replace them. The consequences of not replacing them if they are bad outweighs the cost of replacing them.

(1) Suggestions on which and who to buy dual valve springs from?

(2) I need a fuel pump soon. Any recommendations or good reads on fueling for weber 40IDFs?

(3) With the Watson Streetworks wiring harness, how are people mounting the relays now that the stock relay location is gone?

Check my thread for possible consequences of not replacing the springs. It's in my latest post. The ones that weren't broken were 1/4" shorter then the new springs I put in. Noticeable difference in pressure required to remove/install as well.

3) Check VW / Audi wrecking yards. Cars from the 90's-2000's have a relay panel under the dash that unbolts. Usually 5 or 6 relay slots. You can get new terminal ends from the dealership (if you like spending money) or they use a simple 'keyed' female connector. Alternatively:

Bosch part number - 3 334 485 008 You'll need the terminals as well, but the people you buy the Bosch part from will have the terminals.
Painless Wiring - P/N 30108 is a 6-relay bank with wires.

-Dave

Anyone have fuel system suggestions? If I want to go turbo eventually should I just pony up for a better fuel pump? Also, is it mandatory to have a fuel pressure regulator for carburated cars?

Carter GP60504. You can get one from Summit.
Whatever spring you choose. Be sure to check for coil-bind when the valves are fully open. If the spring does not have some more room to compress when the valve is fully open, bad things happen in a short amount of time (broken springs and dropped valves).

So it's been a long time, I got distracted doing track days on this thing...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...1107141251.jpg

but I have a couple questions right off the bat.

I got the DTM shroud on and mocked up, but it seems like the alternator is sticking out too far. Potential reasons why? Shouldn't the DTM fit in the late model beetles/supers with ease? I haven't installed the decklid, but initial mock up suggests it won't close but just barely. I may be able to get away with getting rid of the billet pulley bolt+spacer from Raby, but it's a shiny little piece I'd like to use. Maybe I'm just being paranoid and it will fit fine when I mount the decklid.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...1116141641.jpg

I'd be really disappointed if I mounted the transmission too far back in the car, but don't know how I could have mounted it any differently. I'll try to get some more pictures under the car tomorrow. I have the shortened nose cone on the trans, and the bellhousing actually sits slightly towards the front of the car in the cradle.

Any help would be appreciated...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...k%2Bup%2B-%2B4

The kafer brace adds maybe 1/4" between the frame horns and the bellhousing cradle. That's the only thing I can think that is adding spacing.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...255eff7d1937f4

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...k%2Bup%2B-%2B2

The right side carb is really quite close to the body, but it won't interfere with the decklid.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p...k%2Bup%2B-%2B1

Finally a photo from the side to show the clearance issues. The crank pulley should clear the apron but I can't tell until I buy a new one, mucked up the first.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...k%2Bup%2B-%2B3

Last thing, I'm trying to put my new A1 headers on, but I can't seem to get the old headers off. Suggestions how to get at this nut?

It's good to be back and I'm hoping to get the motor running before the end of the year. I got some gauges from SpeedHut that look pretty nice. I'll post some pictures soon. I'M GOING TO FINISH THIS DAMN THING!

I initially had some clearance issues with my 901/DTM setup, but had the transmission positioned in the middle of the slots, on the rear Bug@5speed transmission mount (frame horn side). I loosened the nuts on the rubber pads, between the mount and transmission, and pushed the transmission back as far as I could, so that the rubber mounts pushed into the area where the engine meets the bell housing. I had to trim the rubber pads slightly, but it gave me just enough clearance between the decklid and alternator pulley. Couldn't see the position of your mount in the pic. Can you mockup the decklid to confirm the issue?

Edit -- Just saw your brace spacing issue. I have had that cause issues in the past (due to the extra space). You could also unbolt the front bars, and confirm fitment. If that fixes it, you could look at another mounting point on the other side of the transmission bracket, or weld to the bracket, if the geometry allows it. I had a similar brace, and it was somewhat difficult to install.

I finally got the motor started and I'm in the process of tuning up the carbs. I started having this squeaking noise coming from the flywheel/clutch. When I depress the clutch pedal, the noise disappears. THoughts?

https://youtu.be/qrMaSYGxcPg

Just want to drive it already :driving:

Release bearing sounds like the culprit

You mean the throw out bearing?

Does anyone have a diagram of what components should be installed between the throwout bearing and the clutch assembly? I have a 901 transmission mated to a type 4 motor. I'd have to check on the flywheel size.

I'm wondering if I was supposed to have some sort of centering collar or sleeve.

I do yes. I'm not too familiar with the 901, it may need one, else if they are constant contact they can sometimes go dry and make a noise.

https://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/p...f8599_part.jpg

901 Transmission definitely has a clutch guide tube as part of the assembly (#1). Early 901 has the clutch guide tube held on with two studs/nuts at 12 and 6 o'clock. Later 901 has the two studs at 2 and 8 o'clock. The guide tubes, I believe are the same, but to be sure I'd need a photo of your transmission without the clutch fork/bearing installed.

-Dave

Thanks! I definitely have the clutch guide tube installed, I checked and you can see it installed on page 2 of this thread! Phew! So it seems like everything is installed correctly. I thought maybe there needed to be a bushing that installed into the clutch fingers that the throwout bearing rode on.

I'm going to try and adjust the clutch cable and then the shift rod connection if clutch adjustment doesn't fix it. The problem is that the clutch pedal doesn't have any play so it seems I need to loosen the tension. However, I tried getting it into gear while idling and the gears ground with the clutch all the way to the floor. I managed to get it into gear with a quick and firm shift, although it made a smallish grinding noise.