Modern screens are daylight visible and self adjusting to ambient lighting or you can use time of day to change the gamma settings. Things have come a long way since I was looking at this even a few years back. With solid state drives also now becoming affordable and screen technology having advanced its much easier. You could even slap a small tablet PC into the dash and take it away with you. That would run all the tuning software and anythign else you wanted it to do

Yeah that would be cool,although space is pretty limited on a bug dash.There is a lot of really cool stuff nowadays,though.I really like to see what these freaks are doing.

These freaks are dragging you lot kicking and screaming into the 21st century! :p

Thanks Guys.

2 heads are better than one :o Thanks for that, didn't even see the issue. I will fab something up to take care of it.


Right On !! :lmao:

Al ... that is a nicely done installation. I'll be using a pico ITX box with an AVR microcontroller intercepting the data feed from the DTA S60 Pro, and then passing on to the ITX box that runs the software to make my touchscreen look pretty. I want to incorporate a GPS feed because of all of the driving I will (eventually) be doing.

The smaller the interface box the better, because the car does not really have an interior (2 seats, steering wheel and shifter :eek:)

Sandeep

Good point Mark. Perhaps I'll write some code to flash a small LED in the tach or somewhere on the dash to indicate if any of the gauge data is reading high. That way, I can have a quick look at the screen and see what the #$%% is causing the issue :cool:

Sandeep

If you can program that, you could also program a light sensitive sensor that dims when it's dark or when sun light hits it, it brightens.It makes life much easier if you have a "glass ****pit" i.e. a display unit for all your engine data etc.

The touchscreen does that automatically, light sensitive screen that reacts to the ambient light around it.

Working towards having this pig on the road for 2012 :yes:

Sandeep

Wrong animal Sandeep, but I won't mind this time ;-)

Sandeep - happy to have a chat off this board on any ideas/help or just to chew the fat....

You can PM me and we'll exchange emails. Pico is the way to go - I'll be updating my board at some point in the future I think SSDs are the way forward.

Time to update this thread after about 15 months away from the project :(

I've started building up the 2413cc T4 Turbo (80mm x 98mm) and have it completed to the shortblock.

80mm Raby / DPR ion nitrated crank
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original


Crank assembly completed with Magnum straight cut gear and Scat 5.325" H beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original


Crank assembly installed in case, along with cam assembly clearanced for TP DS billet pump. Green lube is Joe Gibbs Driven assembly grease
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original


Case halves prepped with Curil K2 and ready to close up
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...6.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...7.jpg~original


Shortblock together with ARP throughbolts and starting to add some external bits. Curil T under all case washers and through bolts to prevent oil leakage :D
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original


10mmx1.0 to -3AN adapter for turbo feed line in place of oil pressure sender. I will add a new oil pressure sender somewhere else in the system, possibly in the oil cooler block off plate somewhere, to clean up the exposed wiring around the engine. The oil cooler block off has had a new oil path drilled in to it to permit passage of oil.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original


Block as it sits right now
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...8.jpg~original

Great to see progress here!
Tnx for the pics.

Clutch solution based on pinched ideas from other members on this board (Wally) and the internet :o

VW type 4 automatic flex plate with original flex plate rivets drilled out to reveal this finely machined factory peice (right). Pre-86 Chevy V8 button flywheel made by Tilton (left)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...6.jpg~original


Some fine machining / TIG welding by Robert Gross to mate these two peices. They were pressed together with 10 tons of force with an interference fit before welding. Lets hope this assembly holds together :shocked:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...3.jpg~original


Rebuilt Tilton 7.25" dual disc clutch with 620 ft/lbs of clamping pressure (Ebay Nascar find) along with Porsche G50 ring gear
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4.jpg~original


Now need to machine this peice out of aluminim to connect the ring gear to the flywheel assembly
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r.jpg~original


Final unit should look like this once completed
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...l.jpg~original


More updates as they happen ... need to keep the momentumn as the goal is to be ready for the Berlin Klassik in September :D

Looking great Sandeep! I really like your idea on the flywheel and clutch set up!

Thanks Wally ... hope you don't mind the pinched clutch idea .. or the pinched G50 installation :p

Sandeep

Thanks Mark ... but I can't take credit for this one as the information was already out there on the 'net. The cool thing about this flywheel setup is that it cost me ~ 100$ not including the welding.

The issue right now will be the final weight once completed as the whole assembly including clutch and discs should come in at about 8.5 lbs. It may be a biotch to drive in traffic, but that is not the goal of the project :D

Sandeep