:lmao:

These I still had on my phone:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f82ae1f4_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7c5618b8_k.jpg

Basically my buddy bend some 6mm thick and 10cm wide plate round the G50, which I welded to my old tranny cradle. Its heavy, but as you said, mandatory to run at most drag race tracks under 11.9 sec iirc.
For circuit use I can unbold the top section, which then saves some weight.

Thanks Wally, really useful photos and information.

I'm using a Subarugears mount and factory Subaru engine mounts. I could weld the lower part to to the Subargears mount

Steve--

Bit off topic, but what block is that? Any issues with the open deck and being boosted?

JohnL

Its a spare block that I borrowed from a local Subaru shop to mock up my chassis, not sure what type. My my EJ207 block is semi closed now

That's what I suspected(mock up only). Though I believe the WRXs here in the states originally came with boosted, open deck EJ22s, like your mock up block. My LegacyGT had an EJ255 which, like the EJ257s in the U.S. spec STIs are semi-closed deck. I don't know much about the JDM spec engines you guys get in Oz. I was only asking because I ASSumed with the power you make in your 1303 you would start with a semi-closed deck, though I don't even know if it's necessary.

Have you ever seen one of the closed deck blocks from the original 2.0L(or was it 2.2L) Subaru turbo engines? Supposedly They can take some serious boost.

Hi

Started on the scatter shield today, rain and lack of welding gas stopped progress. Thanks to Wally for sending me some photos of his shield, it really helped. I had a local engineering shop roll me up a circle.

My motor is a EJ207, the very reputable engine builder was worried about cooling in my setup so he made the closed deck with dowels not a fully closed deck. His instruction were with tuning to limit boost to 30 psi and AWD rwkW to 400.00, I made 305 rwkW but I've gone to a bigger rear housing on my GTX3076 and I've altered my air cleaner which was choking the motor. If I'm not happy with the results of the next tune I will change turbo.

I have a Toyota JZX110 as my daily and the GTX would work well on that. Its a cool daily, photo added. Factory manual 2.5 litre 1J and I've added 3 inch turbo back exhaust and Greddy front mount

Hi

Been doing some test drives, wrapped in the new clutch, so progressive unlike the organic Kennedy that I was running, off to the tuner soon for more kWs

Hate to admit, but that Toyota IS a cool car indeed. Dont think we had those over here.

As for clutches, both pressure plate (#lbs) and disk material and construction add to the harshness in my experience. Then again, I’am probably used to “race” clutches by now as my very experienced inspector stalled my car 5 times parking it on the lift 😆

Thanks Wally, I love my Jap car, great cruiser and very comfortable. We never had them in Australia either, they are whats called a grey import from Japan, nice to have air conditioning in summer

My motor was so easy to stall with the old clutch, and it stunk with the slightest slip when parking etc

My scatter shield

Hi

Just got the car back from the tuner, I was hoping for more but it looks like I may have reached the limit of the current setup. Its still scary fast.

Now I waiting for the drag strip to open so that I can have the approval on my cage ticked off.

Steve

Hi Steve,
Nice runs!
This is 319 KW at 30psi boost at the rear wheels, right?
That would be 480-ish crank hp then?
Not bad, but I agree, but I would have expected a little more as well at that boost level.
What limit do you or dyno guy think is holding it back?

Hi Wally

I've only driven it low boost so far, I've now gone back to street tyres, Nitto Invos 225/40 x 18 and 265/35 x 18 and its rolling on in 1st and 2nd, it didn't do this on the Toyo R888rs.

The tuner was non committal on what was robbing power, I will talk to the engine builder soon to see what he suggests. I'm going to see if there is pressure drop across the intercooler.

I think I have enough power for the time being.

Steve

Steve,

I've got a few questions for you...

Would you run the same sized Toyos?

How are your tire temps / optimal grip with the 225 / 265 combination?

Those sizes strictly for looks/fit the wheels you picked or traction for that power?

Thanks my friend.

I went that size in Toyos to get heat into them, my son with a 1904cc Type 1 motor had trouble getting them up to temp on his car and he is a much better driver than me, all the drifting practice I guess.

I've now fitted the 225 Toyos and some new 235 Toyos to some Hollow Spoke wheels, I haven't driven on the rears yet.

I would suggest for track going to as small a tyre as you can to get heat into them, if you find them wearing too quickly you could go up a size, my son works for Toyo / Nitto so I get family prices

I've run 215/40s on the front and 255/35 on the rear that looked right, Toyo ? Nitto only make a 225/40 but I found that the front tyre always looked taller that the rear which to me looks wrong, that's why I went 265/35 this time, so I suppose it is looks

I went back to street tyres as I found the R888rs a little bumpy on the street, BTW all sizes are 18s

With all the Covid closures the local drag strip has decided to resurface the strip so I still haven't had the final tech inspection on my cage

I've entered a roll racing event at the Sydney Motorsport Park this coming Friday but the weather predictions aren't too good for that night.

I've fitted up my Mickey Thompson ET Streets for the event on some 18x9 Simmons OM wheels, they a 2454/40x18. Took it it for a kebab run the other night, they are hooking up nicely even though they have been sitting next to my garage unused for about 5 years

Looks good, Steve 👍

Thanks. Roll racing was postponed due to wet weather until 21st August

finally got to go Roll Racing

https://youtu.be/oGQKTZghi0E

Hi

I've been talking to my local Subaru tuner and AWD Subarus with similar specification motors to mine are making 360 - 380 kW at all four wheels.

I've been thinking that there must be a restriction somewhere in my setup, I'm running a Varex muffler and a water to air intercooler.

My ECU has an exhaust pressure map sensor so the other night my son and I did some extensiveness testing.

So 290kpa inlet, 350kpa exhaust On 25psi (eboost), so 1:1.2 which is quite acceptable.

We also checked pressure drop across the intercooler which was about 3 psi.

So now that I'm confident that my setup is not causing issues I'm going back for a touchup tune with some more timing and boost as suggested by the Subaru tuner.

Steve

🤞🤞

Fitted up my track wheels with Toyo R888R on them to see how they would look. They are genuine hollow spoke 7.5x18 50 ET and 18x8 52ET

Gorgeous Steve. What side mirrors are those?

Thanks.

They are local XY Ford Falcon mirrors that I modified to fit, they look cool but are a bit small. A link to a local website that sells them https://www.fordmuscleparts.com.au/s...keyword=mirror

I cut the bolt on base off and and had it welded up and I used the the stubs from VW mirrors so that I didn't need to drill any extra holes.

The people standing with my car, are me and Dinos son Valentino, then Dino who is a member on here and another friend of mine Barry.

I organise a VW cruise on the 1st Friday of the month (Der Erste Freitag) at Harry's Cafe De Wheels

Weighed my wheel collection the other day
6 inch Cookie cutters with 205/50 x 15 Mickey Thompson ET street et = 15.7 kg.
6 inch Cookie cutters with 185/55 x 15 street radials 13.8 kg
Hollow spoke twist 8 inch with 235 40 x 18 Toyo R8888R = 20.5 kg
Hollow spoke twist 7.5 inch with 225 40 x18 Toyo R8888R = 19.7 kg
Boxster 5 spoke 8 inch with 225 40 x 18 Nitto Invos = 21.2 kg
Boxster5 spoke 10 inch with and 265 35x18 Nitto Invos = 22.4 kg
3 piece Simons OM 18x9 with 245 40x18 Mickey Thompson ET Streets 22.8 kg

Hi

Another day another dyno run

This was on a hub dyno, same tune that made 319 rwkWon rollers made 350 rwkW on the hub, difference being no wheelspin. The dyno operator confirmed cars that don't wheelspin make just about identical power on both his Mainline dynos

The dyno guy didn't have 5x130 hub flanges so I bought these 130 to 114.3 adaptors from eBay

Nice results again!
At what boost pressures are those lines? Green line is 14,7psi or so?

He's missing out a lot of work not being able to dyno 5x130 haha!

Low boost was about 22psi.

interesting point, same tune that was on rollers made 319 and on the hub 350, so just 1 psi of boost and more timing it made 32 rwkW more.

The waste gate is fully closed now at 31 psi so out of turbo which is what I wanted to achieve

I've been running 245/40 x 18 Mickey Thompson ET streets, these were 2nd hand and pretty old and the side walls don't have a lot of give.

A local speed shop had a special on some M&H 245/55 x 15 drag radials.

There was no 15 inch Porsche factory wheel that would work because my wheel bolt face is pushed out a long way by my 944 trailing arms so I had a pair of 15x6 Cookie cutters widened on the inside to 8.25 inch to take these tyres. They worked out at ET 65.

My local tyre guy did a finger balance rather than a cone balance for me

Nice! I had the same done to a set of 5,5Jx 15 spare wheels towards 7,5J. Was meant for 24x8 drag tires full slick.
Let us know how you like those pls!

they would have looked really cool.

Nice meaty tyres! And i like the solution you did on the rims of the cookies.

Thanks, it wasn't cheap but neither was buying 3 piece rims so that I could get the correct offset.

I did feel a little guilty having genuine Porsche wheels modified, I'm over it now

Here in the Netherlands a lot of genuine Porsche rims are massacred for the auto cross (widened and narrowed). And after some beating they will end up in the trashcan.....
So don't feel guilty ;)

I took my Beetle out to Powerplay on the weekend, fitted up the new M&H for a few heat cycles (skids)

Hi

Finally got a dry Wednesday night so I took my bug out to the drags.

Getting used to launching and shifting gears again, I need some improvement.

I was getting some wheel hop which I'm sure caused me to break a drive shaft. I need to tie the motor and trans down a bit better

Its a custom drive shaft, modified 944 with a 930 CV flange welded on. The guy who made them cant do anything for 5 weeks so I'm trying to organise getting one done so that I can run at the VW Nationals Supersprint.

If anybody knows of someone that could help with welding and machining let me know.

Best ET was 11.803 and best MPH 124.29

Ouch! Sorry you ran into issues!

Jason

oofffff, done that before on a trans output shaft.

Hi

I had some new billet 944 stub axles made in in EN26.

Im fitting some Subaru Group N engine mounts when they turn up from Japan and Ive fitted Superpro urethane bushes to the front engine mount cross member. Hopefully this might help my wheel hop issue

That are some nice pieces sir!

Last year I fitted some twin Spal fans to my 944 radiator. I had to cut the housing a bit to fit them.

I've just fitted dual thermo fan switch in radiator as used in Alfas. It has the same M22 thread that's in my radiator.

The only one I could find with a suitable temperature range was made by Tridion with Operating Temp: 92°C - 87°C & 97°C - 92°C