Good story (and meme pic), though when you're going through it you're not really thinking about the later re-tellings :) Good to hear the car's running great, and you should get us some in car video of the next event :D

Actually...That meme photo I pulled off my phone for this post. I made it when I found the valve spring and sent it via Text to Darren (who does my headwork).

:-P

-Dave

Did you check for coil bind when the springs were installed? The longer springs may have been bound up when the valve was full open.

Indeed! Coil bind was checked for when I originally built the motor, and again in November when I had the heads off. The old springs show no marks of coil bind, and the new springs (same brand/model) were checked and cleared without issues. We are attributing the failure to a combination of mileage, abuse, and a WOT over-rev the other night while tuning.

-----------

I mentioned that I've been distracted, and hence haven't posted much about the work on the car. I actually have some other upgrades and items added to post about, just haven't had the time. I've been playing with a new toy, a 1974 Dodge Colt stage rally car. It's owned by a good friend, and was purchased with a blown motor and tranny. I've been storing the car for a few years (he lives in the states, is a professional rally driver), and he finally said we should get this thing ready to rally. Over the past couple of months we've installed a new motor and trans, I've rebuild the trans, had a dashboard fire, re-wired the whole damned car and finally got it tuned and running. We were out testing at DirtFish Rally School on Monday, and the car is a BLAST. Still need to upgrade the seats, belts, cage and paint...then it's ready for stage rally.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/8...150a65bb_c.jpg

Here's the thing, when the owner isn't using it...he wants me to Rally it. Stage rally, rallyX, etc. if it's just going to be sitting, it might as well be used. Hmmmm. So basically I now have a full stage rally car in my collection of vehicles. Suddenly destroying the beetle further with gravel is a less enticing idea. I mean, why would I shred paint on the beetle when I can just use the Colt?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8...2a8a9f90_c.jpg

I'm seriously considering working on the suspension this summer, and setting the beetle up as more of a Tarmac-Rally car. We've got our www.classicccaradventures.com events every year, and I'd probably still pop the suspension back up for winter events. The Colt is too damned loud inside for anything but Stage rally.

Thinking Coil-overs on the front, perhaps wider wings (and rubber), a Kamei front spoiler and it should be good. Tarmac rally and track car...???

-Dave

Hi

Those cars were called Mitsubishi Lancer down here, in the day they were a real force in rallying, I remember seeing Andrew Cowan http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrew_Cowan competing in one in the Southern Cross rally in the 70s.

Steve

I've been pretty busy with various jobs and haven't had much time for playing with cars, a problem which is compounded by the fact that I've got the Beetle, the Colt, an Audi Coupe quattro and a new Chevy pickup truck all on the go. The Salzburg Beetle has had some ups and downs over the past while, and I'll try and document what I can.

First up, I finally got around to mounting a co-driver footrest in the car. I had planned on machining up a unit which would have two rails permanently mounted to the floor, and a moveable panel (for different height co-drivers), but the crunch time to get the car ready in time for Spring Thaw meant I went with an OMP pre-formed panel. Of course, I'm not happy with the way it sits...so it will come out of the car soon enough for some changes. Basically, the angle isn't "right", and in order to sit correctly it needs to be trimmed to clear the tunnel and the inner fender.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8411/8...753ebd25_c.jpg

Next up, and far more of a fun toy, is my Shift-I progressive shift light. You would think, in a car that is so loud you need hearing protection, that paying attention to the revs is easy. The problem, I've found, is that after a certain point its all just noise and volume...and you can't distinguish well enough between various levels of RPM. I saw this unit at my local race supply shop, and took a gamble. Such a good call! It's fully programmable for RPM range, light patterns, brightness and more. One button turns it on or off while driving, so I only use it when I'm 'having fun', thus ensuring my brain doesn't get so used to it that I ignore it. I've found it gives me two main advantages: I'm finding it much easier to keep the engine within the torque curve and I'm not risking an over-rev when playing in the upper rev limits. The one I bought has four green lights on the left, followed by two yellows and one red. I set mine up so the four greens are progressive, then the greens go out as the two yellows come on, and finally the yellow and red flash as you hit the limit. Incredibly hard to miss...but not distracting either. http://www.ecliptech.com.au/index.ph...=59&Itemid=109
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2871/8...a1cc023b_c.jpg

On the bad news side of things, I'm still struggling with burning out exhaust gaskets. To say I've beaten the pulp out of the exhaust system would be an understatement. I think most users would look at the condition of my muffler and assume it's only good for scrap metal. I have noticed that the last set of gaskets I blew out were about 3 days after I bottomed the muffler out on something...even though it was lightly. I now suspect that physical damage is starting the process, and it takes a few hundred kilometers for blow-by to damage the gaskets to the point I can hear them. Once I hear the change in exhaust note, or notice the wideband reading leaner, I get about 50km before the gasket blows out completely. The answer, unfortunately, is probably a whole new exhaust system and to extend the skid plate (or skid plate system) back to protect the exhaust as well.

The second set of bad news involves the oiling system. Three times in the past month I've experienced a zero-oil pressure situation where the car will lose oil pressure at idle and then I can't prime the system back up. I end up loosening off oil fitting and cranking the starter over while slowly working the oil through the system segment by segment. The first time it repressurized in relatively short order (about 30min of work), but just this week I lost pressure twice on one day and it took 1 hour and 2 hours (respectively) to get the car back up and running. Really quite frustrating...but thanks to some things I noticed on the second time, I think I have a theory. I have the cold-idle set relatively low on the car, its at about 500rpm, sometimes less. This corresponds to a hot idle of about 1000rpm. At low RPM I don't *think* the scavenge pump is moving enough oil back up to the tank. Eventually on Friday, while I was trying to prime the system, I realized that the tank had less then 1/8th of oil, and the motor was over-full. Hmmm.... I put an extra litre into the tank, took a risk and revved the motor to 1500rpm (with no pressure). Instantly I could hear the scavange oil splashing back into the tank and in less then 20seconds the oil light was out. So, I think the issue is two-fold:

• First off, I'm not watching the oil level in the tank often enough.
• Secondly, the scavenge pump isn't pulling enough oil at sub 1,000rpms

The combination of the two means that there isn't enough oil in the system to allow the car to idle cold at low RPM…and I lose oil pressure. Repressurizing the system from full oil loss takes about 2.5 complete minutes of cranking (assuming oil in the tank, coil disconnected), which I can't imagine is too kind to the bearings. I'm going to redo the venting on the tank which will allow me to run a higher oil level (additional one or two Litres) and keep a closer eye on things.

I am worried about the likely damage I've done to the bearings in the current motor. At hot oil pressure I'm down a full 10psi from where I was two months ago. I now see 40psi at 3500rpm instead of the 50psi I was seeing earlier. It's not low enough to pull the motor immediately, but it's something to be concerned about for sure. It could be the electric gauge/sensor, however. The mechanical gauge on the Accusump used to match exactly, but now they are 5psi different (Accusump being 5psi higher). Again, no emergency...but something to watch for sure.

Back to the Good News! If you haven't already seen the June 2013 Issue of UltraVW, you may want to go pickup a copy. Okay, I'm probably a little biased…but hey, six page feature on my car!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7312/8...e93e0732_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/8...18c741f1_c.jpg

Stoked to finally have a magazine feature I can give to family and friends who don't speak Japanese or French! Makes oil system issues a little easier to deal with.

-Dave

Man, lots of ups and downs, but hopefully you have the oil issue sorted out. Any reason you're not running a higher cold idle? I can't speak to unkindly because I do the same thing, 900-ish cold and 1300-1400 hot.

Congrats on the magazine feature!

Thanks!

No good reason for a low cold idle...I simply set it where I wanted it on a hot engine, and let the cold idle end up where it may. Might bump the hot idle up to 1200rpm and see where that gets me on the cold.

-Dave

Congrats on the magazine feature. Every car guy wants to see their ride covered in print.
I am sure you will sort the oiling system out. What size lines are you running for supply and return to/from the tank? The Herbie X was my first try at a dry sump system. Ended up with -10 to and from the tank and -8 for the rest of the system. Also the oil level had to be checked with the engine running at (warmed up) idle. After that it was good to go.

Its good to know that there are also other Porsche Salzburg maniacs out there.

We will start our new car during the winter time.

Another nice update as always! Congratulations on the magazine feature!

I'll pick up Ultra. I have passed over it when I was searching for Dean's feature. No evidence of the excellence inside!

I'll pick up Ultra as well.

I got the magazine. They also have a feature about the Finland guys:cool:

Well, short update but I realized I haven't been back here too much. Work is crazy, been traveling for my other job and the bug just keeps going. I seemed to have solved the oiling problems, will post some photos this week. The happy news is I've finally got the tuning to a reasonable 10L/100km highway driving, but not at all light footed. I'm quite sure I can still pull it back for even more fuel savings. Really want to dyno the car, but worried I'm going to be disappointed!

-Dave

So the current debate is whether I go and drop in the new front coil-over suspension I had planned, or a redo of the shifter setup with something never before seen. Budget for either choice is about the same, not sure what I'm going to enjoy more over the summer. Hmmmm...

Shifter ;) what is the plan?

Hmmm...I'm not sure I want to say before I've jumped in with both feet!

Spoke to the developer on the phone this morning, went over the measurements and I just need to wait until after work to confirm that it's all going fit "in theory". Will definitely require some modifications, possibly firing up the welder, but that's not too scary.

-Dave

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/9...707b8655_c.jpg

Geesh, this car was new just months ago! It's amazing how things underneath get dirty and corrode. Adjusted the steering box in anticipation of a road trip a couple of weekends ago, and made a note to get under the car with some cleaning supplies and fresh paint soon. The road trip started off as a blast, headed down to the southern border of Washington state, via Mount Rainer National Park and a bunch of other twisty roads. The car was handling flawlessly, despite the heat, until I hit the desert-like conditions of Yakima. The air temperature was a little over 33 degrees, with zero wind. Driving at around 120kph the oil temp was up to 220, and I had to work to keep it below 230F. In hind sight taking the skid plate off before my trip would have been a wise idea, but I was so close to my destination I figured I wouldn't worry too much. I know from past experience that dropping the skid plate will equal a 20deg oil temp reduction, and should probably resolve to create a summer plate with some of the design features of VW's original ones.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7454/9...b55188bc_c.jpg

The road trip home, though, was like a story from hell. First bad gas (water), which required overnight carb cleaning in a walmart parking lot. The rear brakes went to metal (seized slider pin) and I roasted the rotor and brake calliper. Then ignition issues, and finally a broken elephant foot adjuster (which I discovered many hours later).
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I limped the car to AVR on three cylinders, and spent a bunch of time diagnosing the problem (being awake for 30+ hours doesn't help the brain to function). Thank goodness Art and Vic were there to help me out between calls and customers! Eventually I borrowed a set of Rockers from Art's drag-car parts stash, a few other miscellaneous parts and made my final two hour trip home.

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And once home, the poor Beetle sat. First off to wait for parts, then to wait while Audi & truck projects were worked on, and then finally because every damned thing I did wasn't working out. The list of things I meant to take care of was rather long, the car after 42,000km was due for some bumper to bumper checks and maintenance. Some things, like the grinding starter, I was aware of…while others (like apparently I have no brake lights!) were pointed out to me on the drive home. While I waited for new rocker arms to arrive, I started picking away at the list.

The brake switch boots were filled with dried mud, and thus the contacts had corroded. Relatively easy fix that, so there was that positive factor. But the next two photos give a much better description of how my last two weeks went.

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http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/9...eaaa1116_c.jpg

Missing from the photos is the brand new brake calliper, that once installed started puking fluid out of the e-brake mechanism…there were other issues too, but I'm afraid I'll end up in a mental hospital if I start listing them off! After breaking the new chinese-rebuilt starter ($40), the only thing I could get quickly was a Bosch rebuilt, at a price tag of $150. True, not bad for a starter…but when you toss them in a lathe and cut a 1/4" off the front face you think about whether or not you want to spend the money! My gosh, why did I not buy one of these from the get-go? All my grinding starter issues are gone, even though I haven't replaced my now hurting flywheel. Not to mention it spins so much quicker the bug starts in less then a second.

After getting the whole motor reassembled, the brakes replaced and bled (twice) I loaded in a bunch of tune up parts (points, wires, cap, rotor, plugs) and fired it up. Holy bag of hammers, Batman! The motor sounded like the crank was split in two, and all the bits were bouncing off each other. Well crap. A few evenings of sleuthing around, and eventually I simply replaced the new rocker-shafts/rockers with the old ones (putting a new adjuster into the one broken one) and everything is silent as a lamb. Same part, same part number, same measurements in every respect. The car likes one set, but not the other. I'm not going to argue, because it's running now!

I figured after a frustrating two weeks, two things where in order. First, movie night:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3752/9...1e9eb1c1_c.jpg

and second, a little upgrade today:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/9...a695b668_z.jpg

I need to make some mounts today, but looking forward to the front spoiler. Also, my new shifter assembly has shipped…it will probably arrive just in time for the long weekend, and I'll be away in Edmonton. Argh!!

-Dave

That really is a crap week but well don for knuckling down and getting on with it. Many people would have put the car in the garage and left it for a month or more!

I also feel your pain. I went through 3 hydraulic clutches before going back to cable. Finally happy with that but now have to have the gearbox rebuilt (again!!!!!) due to grinding into third.

Gotta ask why we bother some times but when you get behind the wheel and everything is working fine you cant help but smile!

Needed to clear my head tonight, figured a drive was the best way to do it. 150km later, guess you could say I'm enjoying the car again! Stopped up on Cypress for a few night time shots.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2876/9...90318ab5_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/9...16c534ac_c.jpg

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URL for larger images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dhdynamics/9391732268/ (takes you to the last shot, then just scroll through)

-Dave

Those photos look great. And I'm with Dean, its fixed, you drove it, and it looks great. Your dedication to this car is absolute.

What's the crack with the mini? Looks tidy :)

The Mini is my housemate's. Warwick's been restoring it for a few years, it's had a full ground-up. He went as far as dipping the whole shell to remove the rust, and then had the panels cut out and replaced. Pretty rad car, 1276cc now. Should be in a Mini magazine before the end of 2014, unfortunately he travels too much to actually "finish" the car.

...so I'm impatiently waiting for the courier to arrive today. Well, hopefully today. My new shifter, which was way too expensive, should be arriving before 5pm. Woot!

-Dave

And here it is!

So I ordered the Hargett Performance 901 shifter (designed for a 911). It's going to need modifying to fit a Beetle, and I suspect substantially more modifying to make it fit the way I want/envision it. But it ticks all the boxes for improving the shifting, at least on paper. Will be a few weeks until I can get to installing it, which is going to kill me. I'm off to Edmonton on the weekend, and this is more then a few evening's job!

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/9...246c419b_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/9...0fef4f28_c.jpg

-Dave

That´s a nice piece! Cool wine rack btw ;)

that looks effing porn!
And so does that shifter!

Very nice.

Ooooh... Look what just arrived... Cover car and a 7-page spread - Nice feature Dave!

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Wahoo!

So, apologies for disappearing for a couple of months. I popped the motor drag racing on our Big VW show weekend, work has been insane and my new '68 Single Cab allowed me to just take a bit of a break. But I'm back, and super super stoked that Retro Cars chose the car for the cover :-) Retro Cars has been my favourite magazine for the last 4 or 5 years, and throughout the whole build in the back of my head I was working on building a car that "could be worthy" of a feature one day. Anytime I was frustrated, or thinking of cutting corners, I'd ask myself if it would be 'RC worthy' still, or whether I needed to put in the effort to make it perfect. Halfway through the build I was reading an issue, and realized the photographer was someone from Vancouver BC who I had met a few times through our Classic Car Adventures business. A few emails, some photos, and I had confirmation that Retro Cars was interested in the build. It was all looking good, the photos were taken, and then...nothing.

Both the photographer and I couldn't get a reply or answer, were they going to run the car? The VW magazines, which shot the car 5 months later, all printed articles first. I figured it was probably dead in the water...but hey, I got some nice coverage in the VW scene. About 6 months ago I heard Retro Cars had been sold to a new publisher, and suddenly it all made sense. I tweeted the new publisher, got the new editors contact details and sent him some photos. I've known it was going to finally be in Retro Cars since August, the writer and I had some great back and forth emails and cross-the-pond phone call. "It's going to be printed before the end of the year," was the last thing I heard. And then...nothing.

Turns out they were keeping the cover a surprise, and I gotta say, I am over the moon. Building the car, the only exposure I wanted was this particular magazine. The VW mags were awesome, but this one is the pat on the back I was secretly hoping for.

-Dave

Congrats!

Yes, congratulations!

well done getting in a magazine that means so much to you

Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
 

Congratulations ,your car is simply brilliant.

Thanks guys!

I'll update more tomorrow about why the car hasn't had much going on in this thread over the last month and a half...but I'm hoping the reason why will be worth photos. In the meantime, I started playing around with a few things tonight. First up, was the Hargett Precision shifter. The shifter is designed to bolt over the-brake handle on a 911, so for visuals the tower begins between the front seats and points forward to the dash. In my case, I want to put the tower starting under the dash rising back towards the seats, as I think it will look visually better. Well, that and the seats are so darned close together in the beetle. The first step is to flip the shift mechanism 180 degrees in the housing, which means drilling some holes.

The Hargett shifter has adjustable stops for the L-R action of the shifter, which are adjusted using two 1/4-20 bolts on the side of the housing. Flipping the mechanism around means drilling two new holes...and the fun task of figuring out where they should be. I measured it up, and then cut two templates on the vinyl cutter. Lining up the holes on the factory side confirmed I was spot on, and then it was just a matter of laying a template down on the other end:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3748/1...2679942d_c.jpg

With that done, I started to figure out where I wanted the actual shift knob to end up. Mounting the shifter is going to require quite a bit of work in the beetle chassis. I'm going to need to create some mounting plates at the front, welding them onto the tunnel to make a flat surface. The e-brake assembly is going to have to be removed, as the shift rod will now travel down on an angle from the shifter to the transmission. The fun part is going to be measuring and figuring out just where the hole needs to be for the rod to pass through the top of the tunnel. I break out in a sweat every-time I start thinking about it!
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The Canadian Rally Season is half-done at the National Level, which means wheels are starting to get scrapped over at the local rally shop. I've always wanted to put a proper set of motorsport wheels on the car, but hate the thought of buying them. I'm so cheap when it comes to wheels! The cheapest way for me to get a set of Speedlines is to piggyback at the beginning of the rally season when the team buys a lot of them. Problem is, I need to buy Subaru fitment. Well, now I have a couple of scrap wheels to play with to work out the fitment. These ones are 8" wide, which is far too wide for the bug. Once I know the widths and offsets available to order, I'll cut the back flange off on a lathe and adjust one to be my 'front' tester, and one to be the rear. I have some long-term brake ideas, and will add this project in with them.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/1...97b50b0a_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2876/1...e438aa34_c.jpg

-Dave

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Well, winter engine build? Hahaha. This is what happens when you side-step the clutch, in error, on the start line of the dragstrip. End of the strip I put the clutch in, and it sounded pretty bad. We diagnosed it as either a loose flywheel or a broken crank...and the car was parked for a month while I travelled for work. Popped it out of the car, found the loose flywheel, bolted it back in and it sounded fantastic. 700m down the road, silence. Seized solid. Main #1 is pretty much welded to the crank, Rod #3 is stiff, the case is trashed. This raises two simple questions...

1) What to build next?
2) How to pay for it?

ha.

-Dave

Ouch! I'm guessing that the dowel has been pulled round in the bearing saddle, but that doesn't mean the case is trashed. I just rescued a 2007cc for someone who was a little overzealous with sealant and blocked up the oil gallery to that bearing and did pretty much the same thing. Oversized the dowel hole in the case, tidied up the bruising around it, and turned up a stepped bearing dowel - worked a treat and saved the case. The crank was scrap as when we got the bearing off it has about 8 cracks all the way round, but at least the case was saved.

If this case wasn't so tired, I would definitely consider it. I've sworn up and down that I would replace the case the "next time" it was opened up...been doing that for at least 3 years, so I guess it's finally time! I have to wait for parts, so I might as well deal with replacing the case now. The new engine plan calls for clearancing for a stroker crank, so better to have a fresh(er) case to begin with.

-Dave

You know, my old turbo 2165 is just sitting in the garage, not that I'm suggesting anything ;)

...Boulder Creek isn't tooooo far away. You know, for a road trip.

PM me a price, I'm not likely to go turbo...but just for fun.

-Dave

Well, I have a bit of an update on my new engine. The case should be cut for the larger cylinders, and full-flowed. My new crank was stolen off the pallet before arriving to it's destination...sigh, so I'll order another one. The heads though, I had planned on reusing from my old motor. NOPE! Darren text messaged me last week "All your valves and guides are toast. 1 cracked, and 1 broken keeper. 1 head cracked. Valve seats pounded out, retainers show heavy wear. Valve float." He then sent another text..."Don't you have a tach?!" Heh heh, well, I guess there will be new heads on the order-sheet as well. Not a bad idea, as I'm going to be upgrading to IDF44's so moving up on the valve size will be ideal for those. I think I'm going to finally get rid of the 914 tach, and look into a better ignition system with rev-controlling capabilities.

While I work out the various engine specs, I'm continuing on with other chassis projects. The factory e-brake has been cut out, as well as the unused heater control lever. I’ve removed the Accusump valve and lines (for now), the Z-Bend shift rod and the shifter setup I had. I’ve also started removing the POR15 from the tunnel. It’s amazing, use that stuff on “used” metal, and I can barely get it off with a grinder and an 80grit flap wheel. Use it on ‘new’ metal (like the floor boards) and it just peels up, as you can see. I’m hoping the surface rust will help it to finally stick!
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I have some personal modifications planned for the Hargett shifter, which won’t improve the performance level at all…but will improve my personal driving experience far more then anything else I’ve done. I managed to rope Stenhouse Racing into giving me a hand, as he has loads of design experience, and a CNC mill. He keeps teasing me with renderings of the shifter…but always leaving out my custom bits!
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/1...456574ec_c.jpg

I did realize, however, that Colin’s work would allow me to draw up the pieces I need to make mounts for the shifter. I am going to get the pieces water jet cut, and then weld them to the tunnel. The driver’s side will be closed off, while the passenger side will be open so I can reach whatever hardware I use underneath.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/1...b10406fc_c.jpg

I’ve also started working on the handbrake. I spent a lot of time on Demon-Tweeks trying to find a handbrake I liked, which wouldn’t break the bank. Lots of measuring, scaling, and sitting in the car. Nothing fit the bill. I went to Rocket Rally, and found a horizontal e-brake on the wall which wasn’t being used. YOINK! The perfect example to R&D (review and duplicate) from! I have a bunch of finishing up to do on the handle, but I’ve got enough done that I can print out a drawing, cut it from cardboard and test the height & angle in the car. Problem is, I need my shifter back in order to figure out exactly where it will sit! I'll have an option for locking it on, and I've built in a tab which allow me to run a cable to the factory e-brake cables. I wasn't planning on using the cable e-brake setup, but may have to scale back my plans for the winter and keep the brakes that I have on the car for the time being. The cable setup will be more for 'visuals' and 'legal' vs. very functional.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/1...0f067f86_c.jpg

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-Dave