The wheel has been re-invented many times because there is always room for improvement!:lmao:

For example, the Fiat 850 used a radiator mounted in the engine bay next to the engine! It had a really interesting fan / scoop arrangement. Have a look.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/...32a76f25_z.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_fvl-y7h6TF...+850tc+021.JPG

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_fvl-y7h6TF...965+NY+007.JPG

Yes, but the fast Abarth version of the 600 (same engine I think) eventually had the radiator up front.

See: http://www.supercars.net/cars/200.html

http://www.supercars.net/carpics/200...linaCorsa1.jpg

No HP loss on the fan anymore, and better weight distribution.

But it will probably work nicely, a shaft driven fan.

Give a dog a bone here!

I was just saying that there are more than one way to skin a cat. Right how you just hold the tail and let me have at it!:lmao:

GL Volkswagens aren't fast like those cool old cars:D

By the way, how do you put pics in there without the silly links I use?

Lol, sorry DORIGTT! :)

You've got to surround your image with these img tags:

I'll step back now... :o ;)

2.5 wasserboxer
 

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...6.jpg~original Here's my racing Okrasa wasser being redied for fire up after a rebuild and detune.... It was turbocharged with staged 8 injector system back in the mid '80, my cooling system wont help a road car install, but in my case it works well, it uses two Honda bike rads for L&R heads over the trans, these pair up and off up to the main rad at the front, control is electronic, no mechanical water pump is used. its on carbs short term for a shake down in a well known saloon car championship over here, before it gets its injection and ignition system back on. its built for corner exit torque and mid range power. more data to come when its looking more finished and set up, i have another build planned at 2.9 ltr, all the core is ready for machining etc, all i need is the time:lmao:
please don't fall for all the myth and rumor about unreliable wassers, its only the owners that introduce the weak links, as with any engine, ive made expensive mistakes myself:angry:... they also love turbos and have a very good head design, very det resistant, and the lower half can take prodigious power hikes as they come from stock, the coolant has better thermal efficiency than aircooled, allowing more power/ advance for longer time periods, plus all the T1 goodies can be used, from cranks to camshafts.
I Hope to see more wassers being built :beer:.
Best regards, spanners,,

:cool: love it.

Interested on your water pump removal solution - I've got an electric to fit to mine so would like to know. Did you just remove the impeller?

Al, thanks, i positioned the pump on the return side near the engine so its having it easyer than otherwise, they will work fine
with the mech' pump and belt still working, then run them on after shutdown to kill heatsink, but i was after getting the installed weight back and gaining every last h.p from reduced loads and belt drag, the impeller, shaft and bearings etc have recovered the weight. ive also machined the c/s pully and flywheel to reduce oil seal friction, and also run 100 % coolant, the difference can be felt turning by hand, i should have done a torque comparison before and after!!:rolleyes:

Cool. And the housing has just been welded up? Any cooling flow problems?

No, in my case i can pre bleed the system, with it all quiet, you can see and hear it bleeding out, all the rads are at the correct angle required to self bleed, i also use a high mounted main rad to protect the engine from any trapped air, bearing in mind time is tight at a race meet, you gotta go when they call ya!!:driving:

:) Would really love to see it. Itching to get mine ready.

I'm still set on rear mount rads. I think that the electric water pump will give some cooling benefits and I am confident that I can get enough flow through two aluminium radiators and some heavy duty fans.

Have a look in the bike world,:cool: rads and fans being far superior to car stuff regarding weight and efficiency, the only problems are adaptors etc, re' small pipe dia's on bike stuff, mine hooked up nicely with a bit of planning, also air control ducting is key, both in and out as you know.:)

Can you show us a photo of those bike radiators. I was thinking about using the Hayabusa bike radiator and tilting it 45 degrees.

Cool, I did look at some and will look again - I've hunted for some alu 3 core Mini race radiators. Look perfect and the actual rad, albeit a standard one, that I borrowed off a friend fits a treat ;)

Badbug, you can just see the l/h rad in the pic, the r/h one is in a similar position near the starter. Here's the front rad', its set high to self bleed easily, and allow some protection in the event of..... oops, it happens...plus other stuff is mounted under it, battery, oil coolers etc, the rake angle and ducting slow the air making it more efficient, it has a built in expansion tank and can be moved warward for service purposes without dismounting coolant pipes, exit air is ducted out in the low preasure area behind the front wings. regards....http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...5.jpg~original