Hi,

The scavenger side of the pump was not big enough, I was getting too much oil accumulating in the case and blowing out my crank pulley. I used an old cummings machine co. pump instead. It is still a 2 stage, but I have a Larger scavenger side, almost twice the size of the primary side.
I guess if you are running a non turbo application, then the CB pump should be ok. The thing is, since my turbo is down low, I am using my scavenger pump to evacuate the frothy-hot oil out of the bottom of the turbo, and pump it to the front of the car to the oil coolers and back to the oil tank.

BRY

where can i find a "temperature-based thermostat"?
any info?

i am running a drysump. it takes forever to warm up. running 3/4" pipe/hose, 96 plate cooler at the front of the car, cb tank behind rear seat, and a "cummings" oil pump used on formula vee race cars.


later,
pete

Pete,

theres a thermostat in my front cooler (rx-7) and a thermo switch wit ha fan on my 96 plate rear cooler. You can buy an oil thermostat from bugpack (part#3061).

cheers, Bry

I have one lying around somewhere here.....which I will most likely not use.

Alex

You are absolutely right on having to get the oil up to temperature. In fact I was thinking about a heater on the tank to help it heat up to operating temperature and insulation to maintain it. However I have a tendency to think on the extremes. I was considering running a race hard for say an hour straight. A large quantity of heat spread out over more oil would lower the overall heat of the oil allowing it to be cooled easier. Granted a large cooler with a fan would probably work just as well.
Another advantage of a dry sump system is if you loose oil pressure in the engine and you have a low pressure engine kill switch the sump would have enough oil in it to allow the engine to coast to a stop without loss of oil damage. Assuming of course it is not the oil system cuasing the problem. An oil level switch can be used in similar fashion.
I have been trying to figure out how to get a 1600 engine running 500hp to last a one hour road race. The heat generated at this level of tune is tremendous. Sometimes when you mentally really push the envelope it helps you solve problems at a lower more realistic level.

Hi
On my type 1 I'm running a 3 stage dry sump pump. I think the make is bugpack or cb.

There is one feed line from the tank to the pump 3/4". Then from the pump there is a 3/4" pipe to the full flow port.

Scavage side theres the std oil scavage in the block, and a pipe from the sump plate to the pump. The return line is 1/2" going through a oil filter and cooler back to the tank.

The tank can hold + - 10lt of oil and has got baffeles. I use the same tank in my type 4 with a normal empi dry sump pump.

Now the problem is that I seem to get a lot of aerartion in the tank.... any ideas what it can be? With the engine just free revving the aeration can be seen on the tank side dipstick.

Please any ideas will help....

hello,

is that 3/4" id or od, I am using 5/8" id from the tank to the pump and I think it may be restrictive as the 911 system uses what looks to be a 3/4" id pipe to and from the oil tank.

For you aeration problem, you could icrease the size of your retun line, maybe it is too restrictive and is causing a spray effect when it enters your tank. Low pressure high volume on the scavenge output and suction side, that means big pipes, not as important for flow on the pressure side feeding the bearings

Is there such thing as too much scavenging in a dry sump? I always thought that more is better, a vacum in the case is desireable for hp and less oil leaks :)

Bry

i run a dry sump in my hill climb/sprint car.why? i have over £5k in parts in the engine and want oil presure at ALL times, you can not get that with a wet sump.

If the oil pressure stays up, is the aeration such a big problem?

I drove the car and the oil pressure stays at 5bar, no oil pressure drops. Would'nt the air be pressured to allmost nothing when the oil is pressurised?

bubbles in the oil are very bad because air does not lubricate, the whole point of the dry sump is to eliminate air in the system. Air also will compress, so your pump will have to work harder to pump the same volume of oil. I dont think there is a huge problem if the oil pressure stays up, just make sure the oil going into the pump isnt frothy which I highly doubt if your tank is big enough.

I understand what you mean by the bubbles does not lubricate... but if the bubbles are compressed and the oil pressure stays stable does'nt this mean that there is proper oil in the system?

Sorry to ask all the stupid questions, but I'm at a dead end here.

I've tried using a thinner oil, checked for vacuum leaks....

This weekend I will try to install a 3/4" hose for the return as well and discard the 2nd oil cooler and 2nd fiter for experimental purposes to try eliminate the aeration.

If the aeration dissapears I think I will install a 2nd oil cooler on the pressure line from the pump to the engine...