dont forget about my 12th and 13th post in this thread :D

I'm almost done annoying the local community.. I like to think things though when I buy a project car I'm going to put money in and drive for 5, 6 years. Gotta know what your digging youself into.. (Wish I knew that with my Nissan)

A performance type 4 exhaust is more costly than a type 1. And if you there are far fewer cheap knock off performance parts for a type 4. So if you look at top shelf parts only, it may be fairly close untill you get to the exhaust.

And where can I find some of these parts?

There are links on Jakes site. If you want to build it yourself, think about one of Jakes Kit engines. All of the mock-up and machine work has been done and the combos are tested and proven. You just have to put it together.

I might be a little late on this one but a small displacment 200hp turbo engine will definitely keep almost anything at bay. Remember hp is great but torque gets you moving. Turbo engines and type-4 engine are notorious for making tons o' torque. I'd say one of my dream cars would be the purplish bug with a 230 hp type-4. It was in VWtrends not too long ago ( someone has to remember it). Anyways It ran 12's at the track yet has been clocked on the autobahn at 150mph. Could you ask for more? I think the thing that hinders a VW from being able to accelerate like newer cars (modified WRX and GTI's) at higher speeds would be the gearbox. Blah Blah Blah... :sleep:

That's why I like the type 4's is the torque. Streetable power! just push the accelator and go, and if you really need to go downshift and push the acclerator!

Where can I find more info on turbo engines? Which is a better platform for them type 1 or type 4?


With Jakes kit I'd think that the kit would actually be more expensive then the built engine as the built engine has the induction and ignition. The kit is a longblock. From what I read the carbs are mucho money! What is the price drifference? I wonder if I could rig up a reliable turbo or eaton supercharger from a car to some 1776 type 1 or some type 4? Reliable?

I have only seen one turbo T-4 and no numbers where mentioned. You can make a 1776 make 150-160hp reliably or make a 2332 make 250-275hp reliably with a efficient turbo set-up (key word is efficient) . I imagin the torque numbers would be the same yet sooner in the RPM band. A T-4 with a turbo would probably be the ultimate street/strip/road course engine. Imagin it... smoke anything on the street(when traction permits), destroy cars on the strip and be able to beat most anything on the track(if the car can turn). In all reality its all about the combo and what you want/need.

How do you cool such an big engine? Becouse they always say that boot is like having a larger engine. How do you cool it? IE the type 4's at say 150HP all have DTM cooling or Porsche cooling?

No computers, just fuel regulator set a few points ahead of the turbo! just a little tiny tiny turbo..

DTM with nickies should be able to handle the heat.

Turbo EFI with stand alone engine manegment is the only way to go.

Yeah I mean it does say dream car! Get crazy. But really if I had money to burn I would opt for a split window bug, custom tubular frame, big turbo autocraft engine, mendeola five speed, totally custom suspension (set-up for road course), big 911 brakes all around, 17x7.5 front and 17x9 rear and interior stock except for a rollcage, buckets, couple gauges. pretty much the only thing thats original are interior items and the body. All of you elitest can kiss my arse. :laugh:

my goodness.. how about a practical dreem car. No Lambos for me! Makes me wonder how much a stock cylinder engine can take?

Mysticle, I can't stress enough that you want to figure the best you can what your use of the car is going to be. that will best dictate what you want to put in there. you can build a T1 cheaper than a TIV (HP for HP), but the quality of parts and longevity would be drastically different.

you could cut a lot of your research time and any potential waffleing (which i constantly did before going with the 2316) by just giving Jake a call and talking to him about what you are shooting for and see what kind of figure he can give you. i went with the 2316 because its powerband was a little better suited to what i wanted to do over the 2270. that is what comes with talking to Jake. keep in mind it is just his opinion and he leans to TIVs, but i think you will find him to be open and honest about what your desires are vs. what he can deliver...and then factor your budget in there too.

Um I guess thats why they call it a dream car. :rolleyes:

I'm sure prises are different between the two. Thats why it put up a red flag for me.

Although if the Type 1 costs say.. 5 bucks and they type 4 costs 6 bucks and I have to rebuild the 1 2 times in the length of the 4 mabey the 1 is better?

That why I wanted to ask about Subie/Rotory swaps. I don't know much about their power curves and granded if I did the swap I won't have all new parts. But they would be stock with more tuning potenial and still go?

My street racer includes everything in my profile. It might be a bit more heavy then stock ghia but I plan to get crackin with the carbon fibre and upgrade to a aluminum inline 4 later on. Makin a tube chassis is fun. I only have a full scale wood model right now but I plan to make it out of steel once ive collected all the tool to make my creation.