Originally Posted by JIMP (Post 44957)

Hello all,

sorry for the late answer but i was extremely busy.
About PJL54Oval's post-

fotos 1,2,3 fixing of the rack on passenger's site with the modification to accept the std 1303 steering shock absorber
foto 4 the hole needs to get bigger as in the std hole the shaft should hit the body tin (as Steve mentions)
fotos 5,8 fixing on the driver side with the lock stop visible and the wheel-body clearance achieved with it's help
fotos 6,7 In every way a tight fit!!!
fotos 9,10,11 ixing on drivers side

About Supa Ninja post-

It's a standard 1303 75' rack, reconditioned and modificated in the points of fixing the absorber and the lock stops. The car is a 1973 1303 (with steering box). For economy reasons, the rack is exactly the same as the Audi 80 or VW Passat (same lenght, diameter, working direction order, fixing of the steering arms) less the fixing points themselfs (which very easily can be converted to fit) and the drive axle fixing channels (requires a slight different shaft, also easily obtainable). Didn't check the drive ratio though between the to


About Steve C post-

The procedure for me was as you mention on your post. Two points though to mark: My car had already the depression on the body AND the holes WITH threads for the fixing exactly below the cross brace that has to be removed, so it was relatively easy for me to do it. BUT in a second 1303 car (probably with 1302 chassis?) none of the above were present so I had to fabricate them. The nuts worked the same way as you and the chassis job went in the second way you mention: First I cut the entire spare wheel well, I cut the chassis and rewelded (with interior strenghtening) to fabricate the depression and then I rewelded the well. So those minor?? details in my opinion should be considered before starting anything. About the lock stops, on the passenger side is easily obtainable as there is a cap of about 20mm which can be drilled and tapped. For the driver side the cap is made of thin tin, so I had to replace it also with a thicker cap to be possible to tap it to accept threads. The locks are 10mm allen bolts without head. So the only way to do it right is to have the rack dismantled.

As a general feeling, the steering is very strict (not any suspision of dead movement) very fast from side to side (don;t remember exactly but for sure less turns comp. with the box) and very light on the still turning: with a 225 tyre A LOT easier than a good box with 165 tyre. No info though on the street because the car isn't running yet. Hope to find out soon!

Friendly

Jim

PS - I did my best with my English, hope you get what I writed!!