Oh, one question...What size tires are you using (particularly on the front), and how low is you car sitting from stock?

Heh, well I guess that's two questions.

Front.
KW inox coilover set. Home made camber plate. 944 NA spindle (with hole for speedo cable) with custom bearing spacers. 944 S2 hubs without ABS. 944 turbo '87> brake rotors. 2006 Boxter S calipers on home made axial > radial adapters. 993 Cup-2 7Jx17 ET-55 Goodyear Eagle F1 195-45-17 under stock fender.

I don't know how low it is compared to stock. Its as low as possible without scraping the Kamei on speedbumps. I can put one finger between the tires and the fender. I like the look when the edge of the fenders follows the tire with the gap the same front to back. I even raised the back again when I put a heavy subwoofer behind the backseat.

Yeah, I LOVE your car as well. Everything is really well thought over and executed.
Awesome pics too!

This is a quote from 29 september 2014.

Finaly I took the red 1303 to a wheel alignment garage. I promiced to post the degrees of toe-in, camber and so on. The reason it took so long is because I had an accident on my way to the BugShow Spa 2016. I finaly finished the rebuild this easter.

The printout is in Dutch but I will give a translation to the words that matter.

Belangrijke hoeken = important Angles / Degrees
voorzijde = front side
achter = rear
links = left
rechts = right
eerste = first measurement
laatste = last result
naloop = caster
wielvlucht = camber
toespoor = toe-in

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...b.jpg~original

Some photos of the damage and repairs.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...2.jpg~original

I had to remove the headlight bucket out of the fender to make sure the tire was not rubbing against sharp dented metal.on the side of the road in the poring rain after I spun into the guardrail after the Kamei spoiler hit a deep area of standing water on the highway. So no aquaplaining but a front spoiler that was to low to the ground.:mad:

I started repairs the day after it happend.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg~original

Then I let the professionals take over.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...c.jpg~original

Time to pick it up from the painter. Color matches perfect to the rest of the old(er) paint.:)

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg~original

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...a.jpg~original

And everything bolted back to where it belongs. It actualy looks better than before.:)

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p....jpeg~original

Ready for a new season of fun. Drove it for the first time yesterday:), the last time I drove the car was august 6 last year.

Nice job! Looks great again!!

Update on my red '75 1303

From this at Spa 2018

https://i.imgur.com/y8vDMCH.jpg?1

To this at Spa 2019

https://i.imgur.com/dCfLwRM.jpg?1

The wheels are now Porsche Sport Classic 1 "17 front 7J rear 8,5J.

https://i.imgur.com/hkZHDfT.jpg?2

In the winter of 2018 - 2019 I finaly finished 2 engines in my appartment's bicycle storage. It's small but warm and clean.

https://i.imgur.com/3mwha9A.jpg?2

First in the car was a 1971cc. Type 4.

https://i.imgur.com/X2k7vN6.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/TRzqQ2D.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/QVACuMv.jpg?2

The second engine is for my 1979 convertible. A 1904 cc. Type 1 with new case counterweighted 74mm. crank and 90,5mm cilinders.

https://i.imgur.com/4FoWWn9.jpg?3

https://i.imgur.com/9M7GhHG.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/XjAgtOp.jpg?2

A third engine is still under construction, a 2056cc. Type 4 for my black '75 super

https://i.imgur.com/h2l5AvF.jpg?2

O look tasty eye candy:D. Nice taste.

Love it!

Man...I want that CSP exhaust like you wouldn't believe.

Question, have you posted info on your brakes, here on GL?

Love the new wheels.

Does using the modified air cleaner restrict the air flow to the carbs and how much quieter does it make the induction noise?

Yogie

@ effvee
The brake parts used in this car are on page 2 of this topic.
The only things I had made or made myself are the bearing adapters for the 944 S2 front hub on 944 NA spindels, the second thing is the axial to radial caliper mounts. I refuse to pay to much for a square bar of alluminium with 4 holes in it.

@ Yogie
The difference in sound is level is high. The design of the CSP airintake system is great. I am very happy with it. The only things I added are the stainless hoseclamps on the rubber connector and fitted two case vent hoses to the bottom of the filterbox.

This car is more of a comfortable cruiser than a weekend warrior or racecar. Lots of sound deadening, full leather interior, good audio system etc. So when I heared the difference of intake sound level in somebody elses car I bought one the next day.
When the type 4 goes back in I will also order the CSP aircleaner for that engine. The black 1303 will have the reagular K&N airfilters with lots of intake "music / sounds".

Hi

Love your work.

Some of your photo bucket photos aren't showing up.

I posted this before about fixing photobucket photos.

Read on another forum the following:-By simply adding the text ~original as a suffix between the existing .jpg suffix and the [/img] tag the original images will be displayed again. I think this may only work in Chrome and firefox.

Steve

I'm done with photobucket. The photo's that are not vissable are no longer in my photobucket albums. Last few photo's are hosted on IMGUR. I will try to (re)post the most important technical photo's first.

I had hundreds of pictures in photobucket, I paid one year of ad free, the second year they automatically took another. Because I complained to them they did not take the fee against me paying. Once you start paying, they got you:mad:

Some DIY made stuff

How to connect your throttle cable to your new CSP type 4 carb linkage? There is no bracket to hold the cable included. So I made my own. Some angle alluminium and a bicycle handbrakelever hollow adjustment bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/hgGyHxx.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/oQ4QMHB.jpg?1

DIY oilcooler bracket and airscoop.

The olilines in the final instalation go over the driveshaft and the CSP shocktower brace / torque bar. With the type 4 the thermostat and oilfilter are on the case. The oil lines go to the oilcooler between the left carburator and the fanhousing.

With the type 1 full flow system, the oilfilter is under the left rear taillight I fitted a sandwichplate between the oilfilter and mounting bracket, from there it goes to an inline bypass thermostat that is mounted between the left top shockmount and the gearbox.

https://i.imgur.com/KwV06d4.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/FWwBaDb.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/NgNmGMu.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/igdYk1p.jpg?1

No use in making it pretty, If I scrape it on a speedbump I can easily make a new one. This has not happened yet and it has worked perfectly for 3000 miles now.

This topic started with my black '75 1303. The titel of the topic is rolling rebuid, But it's not rolling at the moment. All the previous welding I did was to keep it on the street asap and street legal. That was done between 2008 and 2012. It was in storage for the last eight years. There were 3 options, sell it (not realy an option), keep patching it up or restore it completly. I went for the third option.
I will not bore everyone with sheet metal photo's (only this time). I will post the more interesting stuff when I start to rebuild with new brakes, 2056cc type 4 with Ahnendorp heads wih 42 and 36 mm valves and their forged counterweighted crankshaft, 260mm fan and GPP exhaust

https://i.imgur.com/OLdkNqP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bl3hGVq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Jq7mW33.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HnOGxW4.jpg

What size rubber are you running on the 8.5's?

245 / 40 / 17" The setup on the photo's in the rear is the 8,5"sport classic's with 245 tyres with 4 cm. spacers under 6 cm. wider rear fenders. Front is the same as mentioned before only the wheel is now a Sport Classic 1 instead of the Cup-2


https://i.imgur.com/XQp3wnc.jpg?1
stock fender without spacers and the 8,5" ET50 17" Sport Classic 1

The 6 cm wider fiberglass fenders are bent out of shape from hanging on a wall for 8 years, thats why the fender does'nt follow the same radius as the tyre. On the pictures at Spa they are'nt even painted it's still the red gelcoat of the Kercher fenders luckely for me the same collor as the rest of the car.

The wheel mounted without spacers is to close to the springplate, so I have to use spacers. I had the 4 cm. spacers and the red gelcoat 6 cm. wider fenders so that was the fasted option to go and drive. I have several options, 2 cm. spacers and 4 cm wider fenders, or new 6 cm. wider fenders and paint those

The black rear bumper is a Kercher fiberglass one to fit around the 6 cm. wider fenders.

Just for fun and to see the difference.
The 9J ET70 Cup2 with 255 tyre and 4 cm. spacers under stock fenders.

https://i.imgur.com/ctSrGor.jpg?1

And the same wheel tyre combo and spacer under the 6 cm. wider fenders.

https://i.imgur.com/GPsoB2x.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/iSr6ZOg.jpg?2

Not mine yet but these are what I have in mind for the black super.

https://i.imgur.com/e5ZwYNe.jpg

Couple of beautiful cars for sure.

Love your work.

Always wanted one of those intake air boxes to quiet things down on the highway.
Having to shout over the noise does get old after a while..

Or you go turbo :D

No turbo yet, but I do have my '86 944 turbo front brakes complete.

I already had the spindles and calipers but was still looking for the hard to find and expencive '86 turbo hubs.

https://i.imgur.com/Qgy3Bbj.jpg?1

The spindles and hubs of a '86 944 turbo are 1 year only parts.

I instaled a bumpsteer flip kit and drilled trough the axle for the speedometer cable. The spindle does not have the hump next to the strut mounting where the cable enters a beetle or 944 NA spindle so I welded on an inch of steel pipe to fit the rubber grommet to seal and protect the speedo cable.

https://i.imgur.com/KHo5qO9.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/N6vy33d.jpg?1

When I finaly found set of hubs I could also buy the 28mm thick rotors.
These are Zimmermann Sport / drilled rotors, the same as I already had on the rear wide alu trailing arms.

https://i.imgur.com/Ncgl2OZ.jpg?1

The black set of Porsche BBS Sport Classic 2 wheels were already sold but the seller had an other very nice set in Silver. The rear is 9J and the front is 7,5J.
Most sets of SC 2's are with a 10J wheel for the rear, thats to wide for me.

There is a difference between the 17"and the 18" sport classic wheels, the 18" front wheels do not have room behind the center cap for the 944 dustcap and speedo cable. But that is easily fixed with a 10mm. spacer and longer wheel studs. The black 1303 already has the wider flared fenders to fit these wheels with the 10mm. spacers.

https://i.imgur.com/x0EEqVx.jpg?2


Keep them silver or paint them black or red?
I'm thinking of having red accents on the black 1303 like the rollcage, 4 point harness, suede red OMP steeringwheel
The Porsche brembo callipers will stay black.

https://i.imgur.com/8ZXAUII.jpg?1

Excellent wheel choice, congrats! Silver and black hides the beauty of these wheels, red might be too much so I would go for gold with polished lips. Pops out, yet classic. (especially with black calippers)

Red will be too red.
Black would match the trims on the car, but then again, the details of the rim will disapear.
Gold with a polished lip, just like Bogara said and Wally has/had on the Mythbuster :P.
Red with gold is also a nice combo.

Though choice.....Luckily not my choice :P

The new 18" wheels are for the black 1303. It will have 2 OMP race bucket seats and a red rollcage. So it stands out no matter what color wheels I put under the thing I personaly still lean towards red centers and original clear coated alu. lips. No gold BBS for me.

got my inspiration from these 2, and other black GT's and RS's with red wheels

https://i.imgur.com/Ju8qoo5.jpg

Drilled a square hole for the speedo cable in the hub dustcap.

https://i.imgur.com/rJAgdMj.jpg?1

Just fitted new wheel bearings so every component can finaly be bolted together.

https://i.imgur.com/MA2K5Fc.jpg?1

Nice work, I was able to buy a grease cap from Porsche with the speedo cable drive hole

Already had a few sets of late model caps without the hole, so in my case this was easier.

Ah, I misunderstood. Then red is really the color to do if the rest of the accents are red too. Would be killer

How do you drill a "square" hole?

Well, you take a 4.0mm. drillbit, a lathe to get the hole in the middle, a small square file, a caliper gage, a spare speedo cable to testfit, file the ROUND hole out to 4,95mm. square, and somebody who tries to be funny.

"Drilling" the square hole in the hub grease cap was easy.

To make the holes meet up perfectly inside of the axle, with one hole from the axe side and the other from the back side of the spindle under an angle was far more challenging. I asked 2 machineshops if they could do it and guarantee that they would not f#(k up my very hard to find '86 turbo spindles. One backed out and said they did not do buisness for private persons. The other one was to busy. So I did it myself with the help of a laserbeam on a drill press.

Bet that was nerve wracking. Did you find you were holding your breath until the holes met?

The hard part was the depth of both holes. Especialy from the back. If you drill to far the cable would hit the bottom of the hole instead of bending and going into the axle bore.

The trick to make sure the holes line up perfectly is to drill a very small pilot hole from the back. I first drilled a 2mm. hole and checked if it was meeting in the middle of the axle bore. It was of by 1mm vertically. I adjusted the clamp of the drill press and drilled the final diameter pass very slowly so it would not follow the pilot hole and take more material away from one side. This only works if the pilot hole has a very small diameter. If the pilot hole is to wide the final drill bit wants to center in the pilot hole and will bend and most likely brake.

If you are off horizontally and the pilot hole would meet low in the axle it would be an easy fix and drill deeper into the axle. If the hole from the back meets up high you would drill deeper from the back.

So the lineup left to right is the most important to get right.

It also took 3 drillbits to do the job. It is very hard steel, take it slow and use cutting oil. If it gets to hot take a brake to let it cool down. Otherwise it could take a whole lot more drill bits.

What an ordeal. I just used n/a spindles. They were already drilled.