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Had to take a few days off the car, and I totally forgot to take photos tonight. But still making progress. The body is a completely stripped shell now, and I've drilled out all the spot welds on the D-side heater channel in anticipation of swapping it out tomorrow. Originally I was just going to patch the rough sections, but once I put the wire wheel to it, the heater channel just looks like swiss cheese. I've got a friend who's done plenty of them coming up to give me a hand...this is my first channel replacement and I'd like to be sure my door opens and closes when I'm done!
I doubt I'll get much more done this weekend...but I am getting sooooooo close to moving it to the paint shop. -Dave |
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6038/...f00d4177_b.jpg
Hmmm...doesn't look like much eh? But the seven hours to get here were pretty crazy. I've never done a heater channel before, and it's a significantly challenging piece, so I called up a friend to give me a hand. I've had a driver's side heater channel kicking around the garage for eons, so I didn't even think about checking it before he arrived...just confirmed it was still in the corner. Well, who would have thought that that a Super Beetle channel is different from a standard Beetle? Oops! Thankfully Geoff is a master when it comes to sheet metal work, and we both agreed modifying the channel I had was better then the four hour round trip to go and get the proper one. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6235/...9ab983ea_z.jpg Geoff also had the fun task of sorting out the sheet metal above the Napoleon hat. Once you start cutting out the rust on old cars, you just have to keep going until you hit good metal...or the car is gone. Thankfully he didn't have to dig too far. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6092/...3211ae43_z.jpg With the heater channel repaired I managed to squeeze out a few hours this weekend to continue attacking the rest of the jobs on the car. I was never really happy with my engine bay access panels, but unsure what to do about it, until Geoff suggested I make some frames for them. I've welded the frames in on both sides, and dressed the welds after the photo. Now I've got good looking holes, and they strengthened up the rear end quite a bit. Now I just have to drill some holes and weld in some nuts for mounting the removable aluminum panels. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/...1ba3982d_b.jpg From there I decided to stitch-weld in the rear body mount, and also the rear bumper mount. It takes very little time to do, and should increase the overall strength by a good margin. Tonight I will start attacking the front end, then its time to put the car back on the pan so I can finish cleaning up the rear apron area. -Dave |
Well, all the areas requiring grinding for the roll bar installation have been completed, and I managed to stitch-weld the front suspension area. The factory used a tonne of seam sealer up front, and it was super tough to get it all out. The welds aren't nearly as neat as the ones I did in the back, but I'd get halfway through a bead and hit a bit of seam sealer between the two pieces of metal. Ah well, it all gets covered up anyways!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6019/...5a234d57_z.jpg Following that, I put the body back on the pan. Tomorrow I've got to finish up the rear apron area, weld in the hood seal mounting strip, and then clear out the passenger side door. Still need to figure out how I'm going to load the body onto a trailer with no front suspension... -Dave |
Well...hours of grinding, welding, grinding, fitting, etc. etc. etc. are finally finished. I have about 2min left (welding on the hood seal strip) and then the main shell is ready for the roll-bar installation. I'll be bringing the shell over to the rally shop tomorrow evening.
Awwwww yeah. Also made some quick covers for the engine bay doors. I need to change them up slightly, but as I was bolting them on I couldn't help but think some carbon or other exotic panels would be much more fun. For now I'll just use these and do something interesting once the car is actually back together. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6220/...8e3f5413_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6050/...563450c0_z.jpg -Dave |
Looking great Dave... Can't wait to See it caged :)
Chris. |
Well, won't be a full cage...just a rear hoop, harness bar and likely a cross-brace (undecided). We started talking about door bars, but that just leads into the question of "why aren't you fully caging it". I've done the daily-driver with a full cage, and just want to avoid it for now. So, 4pt hoop and if I decide later to build into a full cage we'll do that down the road.
...sigh, gotta wait until 5pm to move the car. The anticipation of having the shell out of my garage is awesome, like the first big stage complete. Of course, I still have to prep the fenders, so not totally finished the body portion. -Dave |
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6179/...c91d4084_z.jpg
Well, I decided to get aggressive on the apron cut...here's hoping it works out :P hahaha. Also worked on the engine decklid a little bit, adding some cooling. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6170/...a6773c28_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6052/...d97ebd59_z.jpg ...but really, I was most excited to find out that my roll bar was done before noon today! http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6108/...2cd03926_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6237/...16164d31_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6152/...e9ac8459_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6099/...9615e4f6_z.jpg and now I'm off to trailer the car to the media blasting spot... -Dave |
Whew...lots of driving this weekend. I've moved the shell about 2hours away from my house, where I'll be doing the sand blasting and then the guys will be painting the car for me. Normally I would just crash on a couch, but ended up driving back and forth for the weekend. Got a fair bit of blasting done on the shell. All four wheel wells are done, got the first pass on the front trunk area and most of the engine bay done. Will need to go back on the engine bay with a bit more light so I can see what I missed. Still have to do the inside of the car, which is going to suck.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/...fab2a520_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6220/...69e37c29_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6164/...0996b5ce_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6227/...c1478c38_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6037/...ee5dc7e8_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6099/...a23475d4_z.jpg I've got glass in my eyes, my hair, my ears...ahhh the fun of it all. -Dave |
The front apron on my 71 is actually in poor shape, and not really replaced well. We debated about swapping it, multiple times, but have (for the moment) decided to leave it. A show judge would dock me marks, but if the hood is closed you can't actually see the damage. Probably a shame not to just buy the part and put it in there, considering all the work I'm doing, but I can almost bet money on the fact that I'll be damaging and repainting the front apron within the first 6mo anyways. Might as well wreck this one before replacing it. (from experience, I've done the '69 one twice...and I don't even gravel rally it!)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6034/...bf1b14b3_z.jpg First day back in the garage, after lying on my back for a week. Last weekend while unloading the car for sandblasting I pulled all my lower back muscles. Normally I don't complain, and just work through it, but this time was bad enough that I couldn't sleep and ended up at the Doctors for some pretty hefty pain meds. A week spent lying on my living room floor and working upside down on my iPad has been interesting... My back is still recovering, so I haven't picked up my floorpan from storage yet. Instead I'm scraping the gravel guard out of the inside of my four fenders. FUN! haha. One of the front's has been hit and has some damage, one of the rears has been hit. The other two seem clean. The repairs are pretty well done, and I expect we can improve upon them even more so. I'll run these fenders as I believe them to be original German units. Managed to get 3 of 4 fenders done before I started feeling it in my back and decided to call it quits. Gotta save up my healing points for this weekend...when I have to go and sandblast more :P -Dave |
Back was feeling ok on Friday night, so I finished the last of the fenders, then drove down to the shell on Saturday morning. After a day and a half of blasting, sweeping, sifting, blasting, sifting, sweeping, etc. etc. (repeat, at nausea)...anyways, the shell is DONE! Everything else is now the responsibility of the painters :)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6043/...83172cac_z.jpg Gear up for safety! :P http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6103/...081c439b_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6109/...e4820571_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6117/...f0665401_z.jpg Looking a little cleaner now eh? http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6219/...693f51be_z.jpg But have no doubt, this is messy, messy work. I'll paint a car in my own garage, but I am so darned glad I didn't have to blast the car in my garage ;-) Don't expect the paint to be done too quickly, it's a friend deal and there are customer cars in front of mine. They'll be tidying up the things I revealed through blasting, and getting the rest of the car ready as their able. In the meantime, I've got a more then enough work to do on the pan and engine. -Dave |
Had to take a couple of weeks off for travel, but will be back at it this weekend. The paint guys etch-primed the bare metal shortly after I posted the pics above, to keep it from flash rusting. Apparently the shell is getting sanded and seam sealed today, as well as spraying the undercoat inside the fender wells. Guess I really need to get my pan out of storage and get cracking!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/...bb7590a0_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6118/...08de43f6_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6104/...d59f3d66_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/...f6f43741_z.jpg -Dave |
The boys were working hard today and managed to seam seal the whole body, weld up any spots I opened up sandblasting and sprayed the gravel-guard undercoat in the fender wells. Sounds like they managed to give most of the body its first sanding as well.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6113/...9c241587_o.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6060/...2f604604_z.jpg Based on their emails I figured I'd better get cracking on the pan, so a buddy and I picked it up from storage today. Amazing how quickly the mess happens. Started planning on how I'm going to fit the 901, and will probably end up with a tonne of questions. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6106/...176f4eb4_b.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6053/...2e0a8e67_z.jpg First off, none of the 901 threads show this piece attached to the side of the trans. What is it, how do I remove it? http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6238/...4700f51d_z.jpg Will probably remove the angle adapter, but leave the gear inside...just in case I need it later for speedo or rally computers. Selector shaft seal needs to be replaced though. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6107/...06bf44de_z.jpg Are there any options for the reverse switch besides a $90 Porsche part? -Dave |
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Ah, perfect! Thank you.
More photos of the shell... http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/...4a32748a_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6213/...0e94aaba_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6213/...9fafc55a_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6031/...60a9076d_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6097/...07c209f4_z.jpg -Dave |
Frustrating day with the Porsche Trans, but I'll get it figured it out. I've read the various "how-to's" that are out there, but have found them to be somewhat lacking in details. Surely the Bug5atspeed products would make this quite a bit easier, but it's well outside the budget I have left to complete this. I'll try and detail out my solutions should someone in future be looking for threads on 901 installs.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6060/...aaa3e495_z.jpg Factory VW transmission (and, I believe, the Porsche 915) has some flat sections in the lower corners for the motor mount bolts. The 901 Porsche trans? No dice... http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6052/...e2e182e2_z.jpg I've flipped the transmission upside down in this next shot to show the Beetle transmission mount on the Porsche Transmission...will need to adapt the beetle Urethane mounts to fit to the metal mount. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6109/...c888648a_z.jpg First up is removing this piece off the bell-housing. I suspect, but have no real idea, that it's for a clutch release spring. Regardless, it's in the way and gets removed. Didn't bother taking a photo of it all cleaned up, but basically you need to remove all the material from the rib to the bolt hole, leaving the lip around the bell housing like the rest of the transmission. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6100/...91438f66_z.jpg From there, it was onto modifying the Urethane mounts. This stuff flies everywhere with a carbide cutter, and melts and drips when you use a metal cut-off wheel. Sure hurts when it lands on a pant leg! http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6051/...faaf2551_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/...df65155b_z.jpg ...and now the scary part. Drilling the case of a Porsche Transmission. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6233/...478ef0be_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6097/...9f6cb5df_z.jpg ...eventually you end up with this, which isn't perfect. Ironically I can't seem to find a photo of anyone else's 901 install, so I'm not sure if other people run with the mounts stressed like this, or came up with an entirely different solution. I can't, however, leave it like this as I know it will fail prematurely. I'll have to pick up some sheet urethane and start working out a spacer-type solution. Ideally the urethane would run along the metal mount touching for the complete radius...but I don't think I can set it up for this to happen. It's really driving me nuts that I also won't have an "off the shelf" solution if the mounts fail or wear out. Once I solve the mount shape issue, I'll have to then sort out the bolt-heads inside the bellhousing. The bolt heads interfere with the ring gear, so the common solution is countersunk allen head bolts. I'd like to see if I can come up with something a little stronger, but I'm not quite sure what yet. The current thought is a metal strip inside the bottom of the bellhousing, to which studs will be welded to. Need to talk to a buddy at the rally shop to see what he thinks. -Dave |
...and minutes later.
Might have found the solution in dub_crazee's build thread (http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10377). Also made me realize I wasn't thinking about the outer diameter of the bellhousing. Once mine was all bolted up the bolt spacing on the mount tightened slightly, but was still okay. In the example below, there are aluminum spacers between bellhousing and urethane mount, which I think would allow me to keep the spacing 100% correct. Hmph, makes me kinda wish I hadn't ground up those mounts. http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/DSC01538.jpg -Dave |
Dave
This alex from bugat5speed Send me an email, may have some alum blocks laying around VR Alex |
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Those are 1.75" holes. I would have preferred smaller, but a buddy owned the tool in that size. Price one out, and you quickly decide to use the one that's free!
Alex: You'll have mail momentarily. -Dave |
Here is another article on the conversion. It appears they used heavy duty VW mounts...
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/re...he5spdconv.htm |
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-Dave |
...Exhausted from a tonne of driving today, and no further progress on the 901 install. But I did get to drop in and see the shell, and bought the paint today!!!
Looking good in primer...will likely be in paint by the end of the weekend. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6019/...16b1a019_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/...0b6c1cbc_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6110/...d628146e_z.jpg -Dave |
Looking good
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muy buen trabajo, como se debe!! exitos (good work)
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Very nice!
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...it gets better :-)
They sent me these on Saturday: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6218/...eb31d76f_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6057/...e963cc5c_z.jpg I'll update the 901 install before the day is out. -Dave |
Alex at Bugat5speed(us) was kind enough to help me out on the 901 install. He emailed me a solution he had used, which got me thinking about a possible solution for myself. Enter the $30 empi solid mount kit. Because the lower cross member is supposed to be used without mounts on the T1 trans, it gets me a whole lot closet to where i need to be.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6223/...d9051978_z.jpg I am concerned about the urethane mounts failing, and may still end up with a Bugat5speed aluminum mount setup. At least the way I've done this I should be able to swap out for Alex's mount relatively easily. The final version of my mount required some cutting, bending, welding and then moving the frame horn holes to get everything exactly where I wanted it to be. My input shaft now sits 1/16" higher then the Type-1 transmission, with the mounting flange for the engine in the exact same spot fore/aft. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6096/...80d3a2ea_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6211/...934b80cf_z.jpg It's a whole lot easier working on the pan upside down...not sure if/how you would do a Porsche transmission swap with the body on the car. It would suck, I can say that much! With the 901 Trans being 1"(ish) longer then the VW transmission, and my decision not to move the engine back at all, I've had a lot of cutting to do in the torsion bar area. Thankfully I'm using coil-overs...but I'll never be able to go back! http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/...05e14430_z.jpg Started on my front mount, which will be done in the factory rally car style. This requires just a short plate, and two regular transmission mounts welded to the frame rails. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6235/...95afa287_z.jpg Volkswagen was even kind enough to include motorsport mounting brackets in the regular Type-1 transmission cross member. You just have to cut away all the metal bits that aren't for racing ;-) In order to weld in my new mounts, however, I need to remove the speedometer gear assembly from the nose-cone of my Porsche Trans. Having no factory manual, and not being able to figure out exactly how it's being held in...I started to think about removing the nose cone. Alex's 901 install write up talks about removing the speedometer drive gear inside the nosecone, and I need to do the shift-selector seal anyways...so it seemed like a good idea. Not so much now. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6212/...b93d1736_z.jpg My first issue is that the nosecone didn't separate from the intermediate plate, first the intermediate plate separated from the trans case. I suspect this means I'm in for a bit of a tear down if I want to ensure that my transmission is leak free, the paper gaskets won't be much good now. No photos tonight, but I've got the nose cone off now and will start dealing with this tomorrow. -Dave |
Second issue I have is that the selector shaft has dropped loose out of whatever it rests inside the transmission. Will have to pull the gear stack to do the gaskets, so hopefully I can figure this out easily.
-Dave |
And here is where I'm at now:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6060/...58e6ce4f_z.jpg Problem #1 I've knocked the shift rod off/out of whichever detent it was sitting on inside the transmission. I have no idea what gear the transmission is in, or where the shift selector piece should be sitting. (part number 11 in the diagram below). How do I make sure I put this in the right spot? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1290182736.jpg Problem #2 When removing the nosecone, I unfortunately also had the intermediate plate slide up off the transmission case. I anticipate the paper gaskets have been compromised, so I've ordered a gasket set. I've read up enough to know that I need to measure the thickness and match the new gaskets correctly. But this does mean I'm going to need to teardown the transmission more then I was anticipating. I'm a little confused on what exactly I will need to do here, since I'm not planning on rebuilding any parts. The tear-down and rebuild threads all talk about locking the transmission into two gears, and removing (or loosening) the pinion-shaft stretch bolt using a deep 30mm socket. What I can't tell, is whether or not this is a required step to remove the gear stack and intermediate plate, or whether this is done because it's easier to loosen the bolt with the gear stack in the transmission. If one is simply looking to replace the paper gaskets between intermediate plate and case, what are steps required to remove the gear stack? When replacing the gear-stack and intermediate plate into the transmission case, do I need to have a particular gear selected? I seem to think you have to have it in a particular gear for the set to "click in"…but I might be thinking Audi Transmissions. From another thread: Quote:
Bottom Line Some basic disassembly and reassembly directions so that I can replace the gaskets would be great. I already have the nose cone, side cover/shift support, reverse switch and rod removed. I have no idea what gear is selected and don't want to make any mistakes moving forward! Are the paper gaskets installed dry, or with a light coating of aviation gasket sealant? Thanks in Advance! -Dave |
Well, I couldn't wait to find out the proper way to yank it all apart...so I just made it up as I went along :-)
I still remember the first time I ever did a clutch and flywheel job on a car, it was about ten years ago on my Audi quattro. I was so nervous about such a 'big and scary' job, I called in my friend Eddy to give me a hand. (well, actually to do the job while I watched/helped). When it comes to vehicles, the inside of a transmission was my "final frontier". It's the only part of the car that still scares me to touch. I can build and rebuild motors, tear apart anything else, but a transmission? Those always seemed complex and scary. Plus, the factory manuals usually list about 17 different specialty tools you have to have! Well, I have to say, after laying out the insides of the Porsche transmission in my garage...they're no longer scary. In fact, I'm kind of disappointed I don't have the parts or funds to rebuild the syncros and gear stack on this one...just look at it sitting there, crying out for a full tear down ;-) A full transmission rebuild is in my plans for the next year, just out of plain curiosity! http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6111/...becb5441_b.jpg Getting into the Porsche 901 wasn't so bad. I suspect there is an ideal gear to have selected when one goes to dismantle the transmission. Mine was in an unknown gear with the main shift rod dislodged. Once I pulled the gear cluster out halfway, I was able to move the shift rod around enough to pop the whole unit out of the transmission. I did almost need three hands to do it, but eventually I got it. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6228/...dcca9c9e_z.jpg My gear stack checked out about as well as I expected. The first gear syncro teeth are in poor shape, which I expected from reading so many threads about the 901. Fifth gear is worn as well, but the others look relatively good. The pinion gear looked quite good so I wasn't going to bother pulling the diff. Instead I figured I'd do a quick check through the input shaft hole. As I was rotating the diff around one of these two pieces came into view...(battery for scale) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6213/...3ef33a1c_z.jpg That would be the remains of an input shaft seal. Apparently at some point in this transmission's life someone drove an old seal into the transmission instead of removing it properly. It also explains the metal fragments I found on the drain plug! Needless to say, I decided I would empty the case and clean out anything and everything. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6211/...7b63d74d_z.jpg Reassembly is fairly straight forward. I followed another thread which said to put the transmission in neutral. It was a relatively easy job getting the gear stack in, and I was pretty sure I checked the main shift rod before moving forward. What I should have done, however, was also check each of the other shift rods to ensure they were still in neutral. Either while sliding the gear stack in, or while putting the nose cone on, I managed to select reverse gear on the transmission. The main shift rod was not in the correct spot though so once it was all buttoned up I had reverse, or a locked up transmission when selecting 'any gear'. I realized I was getting two gears at once, and popped off the side cover/support. From there I could see reverse was selected but the main shift rod wasn't in the right spot. Took a bit of finesse, but I managed to get it shifted back into neutral and sorted without cracking open the transmission again. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6219/...66c06aa8_z.jpg At least now I can use continue to modify my pan to fit and then I'll decide whether or not I want to do a full rebuild on the trans. I will probably run it as-is for a bit, so I can see how I like the gear ratios with my engine. If I'm going to do a rebuild I might as well make sure it's got the ideal gearset! -Dave |
Had a pretty productive night in the garage. Second night in a row that I've gone in at about 5pm, found myself really hungry only to look up and realize it was now midnight!
Started off by grinding away all that POR15 I had laid on the pan (sigh). From there I welded on the mounts for my front transmission mount. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6052/...6164f00c_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6120/...0a350b6880.jpg They allow me to use the urethane transmission mounts, or factory beetle transmission mounts, to secure the front end of the transmission to the pan. And with that sorted out I moved onto closing up the gaping holes in my floor pan. Originally I was going to use a CV joint boot as a seal, but that turned out to be too large. I figured a boot from a power-steering rack would be perfect, but turns out I don't have any kicking around anymore. In one of my bins, though, I did find a brand new set of balljoint boots. It's a perfect fit, but will be a PAIN in the butt to deal with at a later date if I use the wire clips. The wire clips will ensure a full seal though. Hmmmmm... http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6216/...f55ede66_z.jpg Behind the boot, holding it on to the sheet metal, is a .5" section of 1.25" exhaust tubing. Just enough to hold the boot on. The boot is pretty stiff, so I may only use a wire clip on the pan side and let the shaft slide in and out of the boot. Tomorrow I will seal up the torsion bar housing, and then tear it all back down to paint it. I have a couple of items to finish on the actual transmission, then I can finally flip the pan over and sort out all the other issues. I still need to move the accelerator cable and clutch tubing coming out of the pan, solve the clutch release arm hitting the frame horn, finish modifying/sealing the speedometer gear and then I can move onto rear suspension. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6092/...309459ca_b.jpg -Dave |
Nice work and thanks for sharing!
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Feels like I'm picking up momentum again, as I near the completion of the transmission swap.
Trans mounted: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6230/6...01d813d8_z.jpg But had to deal with the Clutch cable tube (yellow) and Accelerator tube (blue). I knew from other forum posts that they were going to interfere, but with my trans being further forward then most...it's a bit extreme. From the camera angle it looks like the clutch tube is close, but it's just an illusion, the bowden tube wouldn't fit on it. The accelerator cable, is a definite problem! http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6032/6...1c348176_z.jpg Cut the sheet metal around the tubes, lightly bent them into a new position, and welded a new plate on. Simple simple, but yet another job that needed to be done. Oh, and here's a future problem, the bowden tube is 3" too short. I suspect I'll be making a custom bracket to use the shorter tube. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6045/6...49387af3_z.jpg And, finally a lick of paint. Tomorrow I hope to flip the pan over and start working on some topside issues. With the body done at the painters, I'm on a time crunch to get it picked up. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6032/6...fdb7b380_z.jpg -Dave |
Looks Great Dave... can't wait to See it all together
Chris. |
Wow! Brave man tearing into the trans. (I hate dealing with them too) Your project is coming along nice!:)
Anyway, I've noticed the mounting points for the nose may be upside down (I know the pan is upside down in pic) Those style mounts are meant to have parts sit on them... not hang by them. The pic didn't show any bolts in the plate... so I may be missing something here. |
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http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6046/6...a83eb296_z.jpg I wonder if the factory rubber mounts will be stronger? I can't think of a good reason why I wouldn't be able to just swap them in. The urethane mounts for my nosecone are unmolested thus the dimensions should be identical. http://images2.carpartsdiscount.com/..._113301263.jpg ...so what do we think? Stick with the urethane or switch to rubber? -Dave |
I'd go with stock factry mounts, they tend to be the best. Don't worry about your install, they ARE the correct way around. Acceleration causes a torque reaction that lifts the nose of the trans putting them into compression, plus you will have the weight of the engine balancing them out statically.
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Sweet! Good to hear. Will order up some factory mounts and swap them.
So the last step on the transmission was to determine how I was going to hold the bellhousing mounts in. Initially I wanted to avoid the countersunk screws, but after considering a few options determined that they really are the way to go. Only problem? My countersink bit was broken on the last job. Small town Squamish doesn't have a whole lot available at ten to six on a saturday...but Home Depot did have these... http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6042/6...8673e106_z.jpg ...yes, that does say wood and plastic. Aluminum is soft, right? :P A bit ugly on the first go, but after cleaning up with a stone they worked fine. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6238/6...80fb4170_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6222/6...b08798c5_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6217/6...a0cc37d1_z.jpg And with that, the pan is right side up and ready for me to move on. From here on out most of this post is for archive purposes...should someone be searching for help on their own 901 install. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6054/6...8642ef62_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6226/6...56b094da_z.jpg One of the things I was finding tough to plan was how I was going to do the shift rod. This isn't a well documented part of the swap, I suspect because everyone's transmission is going to end up in slightly different location fore-aft. The transmission I bought came with a modified 911 shift rod which was in a notchback (supposedly), but the bends were way off for a beetle pan. I also really wanted to use the Beetle shift rod as I'd have better (and more affordable) shifter options. So with that in mind I started off on the shifter. I knew I needed to remove the bushing mount temporarily for setup, which means grinding off the pan finish. If I have to grind a bit, might as well grind some more...so I cut a big access hole to make life easier. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6223/6...245098b4_z.jpg There are six spot welds holding in the bushing bracket / shifter mount http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6237/6...e85a73d1_z.jpg From there I propped the beetle shift rod up in place, and then measured how much "drop" I would need at the back of the shift rod. To bend the rod I used a propane torch to heat it until it was red hot, and bent it over a section of exhaust tubing. The shift rod will still crimp, as you can see in the photo, but I just welded tabs over top when I was done. If I had a second factory shift rod, I actually would have started again, putting the bends closer to the middle of the rod. with the bend as far back as I have them the rod was hitting the heater flap cable tubes. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6226/6...56b094da_z.jpg With the bends correct, I moved onto the length. You'll need to decide if you're going with the Porsche shift coupling, or the beetle shift coupling. I actually think the Porsche one is a better unit, but with my transmission pushed as far forward as I have it, I'd need to cut out the VIN to be able to put the one I have in. Thus, I went beetle. A quick weld on the end, and I was done...ish. I could get 2/3rd no problem, and while I could get into 4/5 it was binding against something. Turns out it was the tubes for the heater flaps under the rear seat. Well, I'm not planning on using those...so out came the tubes, which in itself was a royal pain the ***. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6228/6...3521c944_z.jpg following the tube removal, I still couldn't get 1st or reverse. Something was hitting the shifter...and when I finally found it, well lets just say incredible. How did I by chance just happen to leave this little tab? My cut and sheet metal work went through half the welds holding it in. Ever try and use a die grinder inside a tunnel? Not fun! http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6103/6...46beb49f_b.jpg Thankfully I can now hit all the gears...though it did seem to require a bit too much muscle for my taste, using the stock beetle shifter. Tomorrow I'll work out what else is binding in my setup. ...porsche trans, not a 'quick' project! -Dave |
Great progress - you're not hanging around! nice front mount system you have there - not seen somone use stock mounts before! keep the pics coming!
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http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6120/6...bd2299fa_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6226/6...1408ba39_z.jpg
Ugh, what a frustrating day. It started off well enough, modified the clutch release fork to fit the car...and got that dialed, but from there, it all went downhill. I knew there was something binding up in the shifting, and figured it would be a relatively straight forward process for eliminating the issues. The weird part was I could get 1st, 3rd and 5th no problem, but reverse, 2nd and 4th were binding something fierce. I tried a stock VW shifter, my 'proto' short shifter and then made up a handle that I could attach right to the end of the transmission to use my hand. At one point, I was soooooo close... http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6019/6...d358411b_z.jpg But 20 minutes later, this was my garage: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6233/6...f3c58202_z.jpg yup, tore the transmission down a second time...and confirmed the problem: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6226/6...b83180d3_z.jpg We didn't actually measure how bad it was out, but after the first big pull to straighten it we measured it at 80 thou out. No wonder it was binding. Guess this gearbox was dropped at some point! Anyways, with that fixed and the transmission back together I spent the evening resetting the shift linkage, re-welding the bushing support in and confirming that it was all dialed. I'm was actually about 1/4" short with my shift rod, but that was easy enough to deal with since I was welding a bunch of the stuff in. Got it all done around 8pm, just in time for a late dinner. Just one last job, the shift rod bushing below the shifter. Oh crap. Complete brainfart. That bushing is replaceable with the stock setup, you simply pull out the shift rod, slide the bushing in and replace the shift rod. However, once you put a Z bend in the shift rod for a Porsche trans...no dice. That left me with a major dilemma. Leave the bushing missing, and deal with a rattling shifter...or yank it all out and start over. Can you guess what I did? http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6221/6...560a001f_z.jpg Of course, putting the bushing in meant the assembly didn't move around enough to actually slide it into the tunnel. One more heater control tube sacrificed itself in the name of progress, and I could just get the assembly in through my large access hole. Then it was back to testing, adjusting, testing, adjusting, and finally welding. My transmission tunnel has suffered badly, and I'll need to run either carpet or the rubber mats (kind of my plan anyways)...but I can now say that I have all the gears and a reverse lookout. An entire day spend on shift linkage!!! -Dave |
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