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Yours didn't come with a guide tube???
I have a stage 3 and mine is already in the shroud. |
1. front tins only
2. my nutserts had holes drilled. i'd drill em before installing. #30 = .1285". mark where the nutsert nut should go and drill it for a slip fit with the nut. then put the nutsert in the hole upside down to mark the rivet hole locations as pre-drilled. 4. Used a "universal" cable. Cut to length. Cut accel. tube about 1.5". 5. both mufflers are below the sump -- about 1". the cross tubes are at about the same level. the header is tucked up flush to the sump. my left might droop a little without the left muffler bracket to the tailpipe. theres plenty of room for filter adapter and lines with the left muffler on. http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/setrab_3s.jpg http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_share/setrab_6s.jpg http://www.vwbughead.com/Engine_shar..._26_resize.JPG |
I need to get out there and give you a hand, expect a call Wed. Lookin tough Bill.
Nick |
thanks for the extra info. i may just JB weld the netserts in place. no real pressure on them. i didn't get a guide tube, but it just dawned on me that i have any extra T1 one so i will use it. i put in a stock acc cable, so hopefully that is the right length.
on the filter, are you saying there is room to mount it on the bumper bracket? i thought you said you had to relocate it because of that??? pics make it look like a tight fit. my fittings come out of the top too. |
Broken motor
Well I'm back online after morning the loss of my motor. It seized about a month ago while doing a full throttle, clutch drop burnout. I tore down the engine and sent the short block to Jake for failure analysis and repair. Jake found that the T4 flywheel snout broke and welded to the crank. This caused the front main bearing to seize on the crank. So, a new crank, bearings and flywheel and it's all good. Jake is going to set me up with one of his new lightened billet aluminum flywheels. I'm going to get a rev. limiter to protect the engine from my foot.
On the bright side, I got the experience of tearing down a RAT T4 motor. Ceramic lifters were perfect. I've made some progress on the car -- wheel spacers, gauge wiring, bumper turn signals, sound dampening, and wing window assy. After getting the engine back together the plan is to get the headliner installed by a shop and finish up final assembly. Keepin' on, Bill |
Good to hear you are back up and going on the car. When you get the engine back from Jake go for the complete installation and get some break-in miles on her for a while before you throw down on it. Then go out and find one of the Civic's,,,,,,, that looks like the guy drove thru Pep Boys with a big magnet,,,,,,,, and pummel his @$$. That should be great therapy. :agree:
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Bill,
With my move to SoCal, new job and good facilities at my disposal, I will hopefully have my Supa parked beside your Bug at the next BOR. I can email you directions to the most savage road out here, twisties for 30+ miles, almost no traffic and no cops. I'm sorry to hear about your engine, but it sounds like everything is going to be alright. Don't waste you're time on civic's, hunt down Z06's, 996's or Camaro SS's. Don't be a stranger brother. Nick |
glad it wasn't any worse. did you have a stock flywheel in it? i am running a lightened FAT, so just wanted to be sure. i'll be out there in a couple of weeks if you have the time to hook up. i may rent a car while out there so i may have wheels to come to you if needed.
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Thanks for the support. Looking forward to enjoying the car on Supa's favorite routes in the foothills. I won't street race -- too risky for an accident or ticket. I'm into this for recreation not competition.
Nick, sounds like a good opportunity. Good luck in SoCal. Pleases email your list of "top 5 radical NoCal drives". Two GL's at the next BOR? Right on! Ya Zen, the flywheel was stock T4 lightened by Jake. Is your "FAT" flywheel the same thing as Jake's new "billet flywheel"? This seems to be a freak failure caused by a freak driver... I'll be Mr Mom that weekend. I'll PM you my number so we can meet up. Who knows, Jake may come through quickly and you can help assemble and install. Sisu, Bill |
don't know if the flywheels are one in the same or not.
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very nice car Bill :D
Keep up the good work :agree: |
Hey Bill here is a link to a thread about Mosquito Ridge Rd. There is a map of it, a 3D visual, and satilite pic. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1&page=1&pp=15
Nick Directions are simple 80E to Auburn Foresthill Exit-Rt Straight to Foresthill Rt onto Mosquito Ridge Rd Nick |
Awesome!! 600 turns in 36 miles with views the whole way... I've heard the Icehouse road is good too. Mountain biking off Foresthill is sweet too. Back to the garage, so I can get to it ASAP. Thanks Nick.
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Ya, Mosquito Ridge is more low speed(below 100mph)lots of corners, I haven't ridin on Icehouse, but I have heard lots of good things about it as well, its more high speed(100+).
For some extra twisties when going to MRR take 80E, then get off in Auburn at Elm Ave, make a LT onto Elm, Lt at next light onto 49, follow that down to the river, at the bridge go straight, thats Old Foresthill Rd, at stop sign make a RT onto Foresthill RD. Thats a lot of twisties, and the view is awesome too. Oh by the way, the Foresthill Bridge aside from being the third highest bridge in the US is also where Vin Diesel jump the Corvette off in XXX. Nick |
Web site online
Here's my web site on the project. I'll post here when I make updates.
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Reborn
Jake got me the short block back this week and it's running again. I assembled the top end, shroud, etc. This time I have a forged flywheel with Kennedy stage 1 pressure plate and gold disk. It's lightened to 12 lbs.
Before I had a lightened stock cast bus flywheel. That's the puppy that broke doing a high rev launch. The rear of the flywheel o-ring groove welded to the crank, the crank was bent, and the case main bore was toasted. Jake did me right with the repair and did it quickly. He even dialed in the timing to get the engine to fireup over the phone at 3 am on the top of a 20 ft ladder. :eek: The reinstall went well as I was able to fix a few things that weren't quite right the first time. Also, I added a hyfire VI-AL and set the rev limit to 6250 as the engine stops putting out power at about 6300 rpm. I got a little toasty adjusting the timing as the rubber boot on the coil wire slipped down and exposed the terminal a bit. When I grabbed the distributor - ZAP. It's all fun and games replacing your engine until you get hy-fired. The gauges are installed and looking sweet. There is a problem with the LED used for the alternator idiot light. When wired throught the LED, the alternator doesn't turn on. I'm using a stock incandescent bulb for now and will try wiring them in parrallel today. Maybe the LED needs an extra resistor in line for the regulator to fire up the field. Any insight on what the the internally regulated Bosch 75 amp alternator needs to excite the field? My SPA dual gauge for CHT is not working right either. When the ignition is on it reads right. When the engine runs, it reads erratic or nothing. I've done some preliminary trouble shooting and it seems to be related to the probes I got for KS Avionics. Bill Simpkinson at KS Avionics is a great guy and knows thermocouples very well. We'll get it figured out. It's rolling on a set of space savers I got from eldavid while the Fuchs get restored at Weidmans Wheels in Oravile, Ca. Harvey and Sue are really nice people too. He's been doing Fuchs forever and is one of the best. His wife, Sue, paints the center caps. I drove up there with my three kids to drop off the wheels and tires thinking I would open the door to the van, roll the wheels to the front door and bolt with the kids screaming, etc. But instead, Sue invited the screaming kids inside to color, play with toys, etc until her grandkids showed up. I was free to take the shop tour with Harvey and learn about Fuchs. He's into 356's and wants to put a T4 in one. I sent him Jake Raby's way. The new wheels are going to be awesome. The car looks crazy with the space savers and low pro tires. I'm not sure I can get it out of the driveway without scraping the header. I had to shim the front wheels as a pair of the wheels from eldavid don't bolt up tight. WTF? The bosses around the holes aren't as tall as the other pair so the lug nuts bottom out before the rim is seated on the hub. I've got the carbon fiber bug. Looking forward to an air dam, running boards, gravel guards, roof spoiler, and headlight rings from CarbonJoe. I'm going with the dark blue kevlar/carbon fiber weave. Joe's another person who makes this hobby a lot of fun. Anyway, that's my blog of the month. Back on full throttle, Bill |
Ah, now I see the wheel issue more clearly. I have a set of these bottomless lugs: http://geocities.com/ex1zee28/PorscheLugs.htm This way you won't have to shim the front wheels. Come by and pick them up at your earliest convenience.
-emerson |
glad the morning period is over and you are back at it. i still need to get back on mine as well. started driving it and it is hard to get back to the rest that needs to be done.
keep taking those pics. |
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Washed the car for a christening drive (again). Love the feel of the new Kennedy Stage 1 pressure plate. Softer than the T4. Below is a shot of the 15" space savers. The header is about 5" off the ground. I can't even get the low profile jack under it without rolling up on 2x6's. Good enough for now until the Fuchs come back in a month or so. I made brackets for the license plate and have the LED bolt lights installed.
http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/space_saver1.jpg I'm liking how the front bumper is working out. The impact strip came from Kaeferland in Frankfurt. I'll hang the license plate below the strip like the rear. I'll detail what I did with the front turn signals in the future (Tech Article in progress). http://www.vwbughead.com/Fresh%20paint/space_saver2.jpg I took it for a freeway ride and this thing make me tremble with adrenaline. Looking forward to getting my wide grippy tires back so I can get it aligned and hit the hills. :D |
very cool. you think you have issues with ride height? my exhaust is 1.75" off the ground at the moment. can't get it out of the neighborhood until i get off my butt and tear it all down again and gain some height.
i'm diggin the bumper too. nice choice. |
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Now if I can only get the SPA digital CHT gauge to read stable with the engine running, I'd be wired. I've narrowed it down to the thermocouple extension wire. I'll try rerouting the extension wire down the other side of the car and shortening it as much as possible. I'm also going to use capacitors to knock down some of the noise on the line. Sandeep has got me intrigued about data aquisition. I've done some at work using National Instruments LabView and would like to try it in the car. The combo I'm thinking about is: laptop, Pico ADC-16, thermistors, hall effect speedo adapter, and some frequency to voltage converters for rpm/tach. The R&D on this car is almost done, so I'm looking for more brain candy...:idea: |
I spoke too soon about the alternator idiot light LED. I had the LED wired in parallell with the alternator wire through the relay I was using to troubleshoot. The relay coil provided enough resistance for the LED to light. No biggy, I'll just try adding a 100 ohm resistor in place of the relay. So it'll be wired: +12V ignition to resistor and LED +, resistor to alternator D+ and LED-.
Moving the thermocouple extensions from the left side of the car where all the other wires are to the right side and tucking the CHT probe under the shroud as far away from the spark plug wires fixed the noise problem. :D So, now I only a few loose wires. Nothing I haven't lived with for years. ;) |
Nice GL Bill, I want a ride in it. Anyways, I was just on a couple of rides with biker boys while i was in town this weekend (packing), and it would appear there is snow already on the sides of the road to Icehouse, which = wet and slippery. :( Salmon Falls Road has a lot of nice tight turns and a few good straightaway's and it's a lower elevation too. I'm going to assume Mosquito Ridge Rd is as bad as Icehouse.
I got a link to very well layed out website that describes all of the good roads in NoCal and some in SoCal. www.pashnit.com it's a motorcycle website but from my experience, if it's good for bikes it's good for cars too. Some of my favorites are 1.Mosquito Ridge, 2. Icehouse, 3 Salmon Falls, 4 Dogbar rd, 5 only if there are no cops and light traffic-Foresthill Rd, and finally 6 is Hwy 49 from Auburn to Placerville if there is no traffic on it. There are a lot of the twisty stuff that I have never been on so have fun searching the pashnit site. I am still searching for some good twisties near where i'm moving too in SoCal, so far it looks like a hour drive to the nearest ones :mad: . Nick |
I know I'm double posting but I was thinking of some of the roads I learned how too drive on when I was a young ninja. If you go to Auburn and take HWY 49 to Grass Valley you'll run into a traffic light in the middle of nowhere. Right turn will take you straight to Dog Bar Rd (very fun road in either direction, just watch out for deer), left turn will take you to Wolf RD. If you stay on Wolf, it will eventually take you to McCourtney Rd which is the scenic route to Grass Valley. A side trip is too make a right onto Lilm Kiln Rd, nice tight sweepers and whoops too. That will pop you out onto Hwy 49. Then there is Hwy 49 past Neveda City towards Downeyville?, thats a fun road too. There is just a lot of good twisties this part of the neighborhood. Maybe that's why the straightline stuff doesn't appeal to me like the twisties do.
Nick |
Nick, thanks for the details. That list will keep me busy next spring when it thaws. I'm getting closer to hitting the road fully equipped. Just got insurance today, so it's off to get the headliner in then roll bar, etc. If I don't see you at Bugorama next time, I'm considering a trip to the Classic so you can get your ride then.
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:D can't wait, Bill.
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Fuch'n'Groovin
Harvey Weidman is to wheels as Jake Raby is to engines or CarbonJoe is to fiber -- AWESOME.
http://www.vwbughead.com/web/wheels/wheel00.JPG More pictures at www.vwbughead.com/web/wheels/ Weidman Wheels -- 530-534-7903 -- restored my Fuchs and mounted my tires. They turned out A+. The attention to detail is outstanding. The wheel weights are split behind the spokes when weight was called for between the spokes. He balances inside and outside weights. They are painted inside and on the backs. The anodization is even and smooth. They were mounted without a single mark. He went out of his way to get and fit the Ferrari aluminum stems. The wheels are stripped, checked for trueness/roundness and tweeked as needed, polished, anodized, painted and baked. Center cap crests are hand painted. Here's the specs: * Front: 16X6 Fuchs; 205/55; +2" CCC fender; 1.5" spacer; Ghia disks * Rear: 16X7 Fuchs; 225/50; +3" CCC fenders; 2.5" spacer; CB Performance Race disks * Yokohama ES100 * Porsche Lapis Blue Metallic color matched to car * Ferrari aluminum valve stems with Porsche caps Fuch'n'Groovin, Bill |
:eek: wow!!! :eek:
those look fantastic. really sets off the car. nice choice and nice work. |
SWEET
HE does nice work. |
HOLY MAMA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D
Awsome!! |
Lights UP, pedal DOWN
Wow the H4 modification turned out bright and the daylight running lights work well. I drove it at night for the first time and I'm paranoid the lights are too bright... No complaints from on coming traffic, but this is another amazing transformation for my old car. Looking forward to the carbon fiber trim rings. I've got a Tech Article about 80% complete.
http://www.vwbughead.com/electrical/911_drl.jpg More at http://www.vwbughead.com -- see Electrical/Lights update Also had to reinstall the Whiteline front adjustable sway bar. I had the shock mounts upside down and the beam bracket slipped causing fender lip rubbing. Here are instructions on how I installed the sway bar. I added caster shims also. It handles much better. I'm getting more confident with the handling and continue to push it harder. I love the direct connection this car has to the road. Stiff suspension, smooth steering, tons of power, roaring exhaust, and decent tires = G buzz. |
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Interior Additions
- chromoly RLR bolt-in roll bar with door bars and traction bar, powdercoated black - Scat Rally seats - New panels with RSA handles http://www.vwbughead.com/interior/kulhdub15.jpg - stereo, amp, kick panels/speakers - datalogger http://www.vwbughead.com/interior/kulhdub19.JPG More at www.vwbughead.com |
The car looks great Bill!
I was wondering as to where you got your tack and speedo, how you hooked them up, how you did the faces and LED backlighting. Also, did you make the mounting plate for the gauges or did you purchase it? |
All about guages here http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/sho...&page=1&pp=15&
I have a couple extra cnc dash plates for those interested. |
damn, thats one awesome looking bug.
i'll bet it rips. did you plan on racing it or is it gonna be street driven? |
Thanks. Do both -- race (limited for now) and street driven -- that's the beauty of GL.
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Hi Bill, back in the US?
Just wanted to say your car is a real beauty (wish my car looked half as good), and just love those Fuchs alloy's :bowdown: Also the tech-aspect of your car is very interesting: CHT and EGT sensors on all cilinders and the ability to log all the data is amazing! Unfortunately I'm out of the running at the moment: one of my scat aluminum pushrods just snapped at 6000 rpm (due to a material flaw), and destroyed a lightweight lifter and the pushrodtube :mad: Anyway, have fun with that car and send over some video-clips if you make some :D Grtz. Robin |
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Give us some vids :D See ya next time ;) Wiebrand |
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