And you could have bought a 911 with all that?

and if you could define short haul? Is your engine type 1 or 4?

Mine is a type 1 engine, I have a good bit of money in the paint/body, I do show the car. I didn't list some of the stuff that that I have done. Paint like mine would run $5k+, an engine like mine would run you $5k, Then figure the car itself as a platform, Porsche C2 wheels aint cheap, All new interior/rubber, C/F running boards, Seats from a 2003 Celica GTS, audio system, mine was a ground-up restoration some everthing has be done.
Yep,I figure 15K would buy a nice 911. A friend of mine bought a sweet unmolested 76 911S for less than 8K shipped from Cali. to GA.

5K engine.. that's a pricy sucker. What have you done suspension wise?

I don't have 5K in the engine, but if I had to have someone build it again it would be 5K+.
I have TopLine MaxxStruts, urethane bushings, Sway-A-Way bar in the rear, A machinest friend is building my strut brace and cup brace, and I still need to do a 7/8" sway bar in front.
I would like to do one without high end paint/restoration and use fiberglass fenders 944 arms/brakes, 2L type 4 for a daily driver/track car. Stip everything. That would be much cheaper. Maybe one day.

less the high end paint and frame off doesn't seem that expensive is it?

As I read in "The Perfect suspension" Is it true that the early 911 Had the same handling characteristics and weight dist. as the super beetle? How do I go about extracting the most handling potential out of this car? (less tubular frame) Nice extra Firm ride prefered!

Without lowering the front of the car. Lowering a macpherson strut suspension is bad for handling becouse it thows off the roll center (the roll center drops faster then the cg) Or if theres away to maintain that geomitry that I am not fimilier with. (Idealy the control arms should be.. say .5 inch higer on the inside then the outside depending on spring rate)

I've had my 1302 for 14 years now, and from day one i've been trying to get to go fast. Growing/living in the hills I've really learned to appreciate the twisties. Who in their right mind would dump, lets say $10,000-$30,000+ on a Volkswagen Bug. Now since the German Look is starting to take off and the obvious potential of these cars is finally becoming known by the VW community and not by the rest of the automotive industry that will make for a lot of fun times for us when we finally get our machines on the street.
What I'm tring to say is that we are all very sick in the head but we all have same sickness. A vision of a Volkswagen tearing some of the best cars in road race like conditions. Back in the late sixties vw's were smashing GTO's and other 8's in the quarters but that was then, and now its the corners. And we got to be on the cutting edge to keep up with these new cars that are coming out, they keep on getting faster and faster, so we gotta do the same. It's just evolution of a old design.

If you skip the 5K paint, the new rubber everywere, Powdercoating stuff, wet-sanding and buffing, new interior, etc. You will drop the price of you car alot. Just find a good car, a donor 944 T or S in a junk yard to get your goodies from, a 2L 914 engine, trow a nice cam/lifters, exhaust, upright shroud, etc. at it, some fiberglass fenders(used would be better) and a cheap paint job. strip everything off it less a good drivers seat, guages, pedels. You would have a good street/track/driver car.

I'm looking at a car right now that has a full mullholland kit (the rear wing has been made very tastful, not just a like..dinner table slab)

It's porsche red, with all one piece tinted glass front windows, 3 inch wider fenders on all 4 corners (massive massive tires I can shove inder there!)

It doesn't run drove into the gerage 5 or 6 years ago (new tank and lines should make it run)
Needs paint (cracking laquer)
I would have to buy new seats for it becouse the onese that are in there are on custom brackes for REALLY tall people (not me, really short person)
It's got new welt on the fenders but needs (and needs new rear window rubber. And while I'm at it if it's cheap enough I should buy new rear window rubber, door rubber..etc. I don't know where all the rubber places are.)
It'd also need..sometime. New tint on the other 3 windows
It's got stock 1600
Adjust-a-struts for a 1302 (have to be changed for the 944 stuff)
Got 14" wheels on it with 195s and 245s (also need to be changed for the 944 suff and to put way bigger tires under there..I wonder how far I can go?)

Comes with a few pref things. Some shifters, 914 gauges, a WHOLE BUNCH of mic oil temp/pressure/amp/tacs... gauges, new stering wheel, Some metal rod that I'm suposed to put hooks on and mount underneeth the engine?

What do you think? What's a good offer on this car?

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...2.jpg~original

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...8.jpg~original

No opinions? I'm also looking for a good offer to make on the car.

depending on rust conditions, $300-$500 tops. depending on what you are going to do (and may response is based on what i have seen you talking about in posts), plan on another $5-$10k. always take your budget and double it. that is always the minimum of what you will end up spending. well proven formula.

Mullholland style bugs are probably the most undesirable of all beetles so I agree with that price.
At the same time, a few minor adjustments(paint!!!!!!!!!) on that ride and it would be a definite candidate for a killer German Looker.
Put 7-12k in engine, trans, brakes, and suspension and ur gonna have an extremely capable ride no matter what bug u choose. Just depends on what you want to start with.

Oh, and ditch the whale tail!! ;)

it looks like its in good shape... I would give up to a $1000 for that car. But I would definitely get rid of the whale tail and the square lights.

And take the amount of time you think you will need to finish the car and quadruple it. ;)

I'm looking for somethig obsure that will turn heads. If this car is all fixed up will it do that? :laugh:

The deal is sweetned, as he also has a 2 liter type 4 ED (from a late bus, like 1975) is the first two letters of the code. It needs to be rebuilt (I'd imagine) and he has some webber carbs. I'd rebuild those too. It doesn't have a tin or anything just a compete engine and carbs with manifolds.

I think there are other carbs for it too.


What's a good package deal amount for this (on my side) Is that a good engine the ED? What's consitered the *best* type 4?

I"m not sure what a bus core engine is worth ($100-$300 depending no condition) the used webbers should be about the same, again it dedends on the condition. The bus heads will need extensive rework to use on the street/track engine you are looking for. You might be better off finding some 1.8L or 2L 914 heads. You should call Head Flow Masters and get their advice on the heads and send the heads(either the bus or 914) to them for the work. If you are looking to build a street/track turbo engine, don't look to use alot of stuff other than the case from the core engine. The pistons/cylinders will have to be top self (JE/L&N) head work from Head Flow Masters or Ham Inc. a good turbo grind cam from Web Cam and I would go with L&N ceramic lifters after some of the stories I have heard and seen with type 4 lifters in the past year. As for the turbo set-up I don't have any real info on that. Don't sink alot of money in the core engine if you aren't going to use much of the stuff from it. And when you are done the webbers might be too small, If you are going to turbo it you will need 1 big carb or an FI set-up.
As far as the car,,,I agree with the "Loose the square lights and whale tail" comments. Or get the Yahn Hammer cd with the Miami Vice theme song to bast as you drive down the strip. :laugh:

The stock cylinders arn't any good even for low boost? (only lookin at 150-200HP here. I actually don't want to exceed 200HP. Not looking for a Super Tranny for the Super Beetle, although to recognise a perf. tranny is good and more then likely needed. I know where to find some stock (or close to it) parts (pelicanparts) but no idea where to find other parts.

I'm interested in Turbo as I can assemble it myself (also I've found no kit) and potentually save some beans as your just makeing the engine more efficent (100% + VE is possible with turbo, although it does generate more heat)

Can I overbore the cylinders? or do I have to buy new ones?

You can bore the 94's to 96's but that still leaves you with buying pistons. Then you will want to turn up the boost and the iron jugs won't shed the heat like Nickies will (Nickies were the standard on Porsche 6 cyl engines from the 70's on and all turbo cars). I think that if I were planning a turbo engine, I would plan on useing Nickies. I spent a year with a bad combo(wrong cam) that ran hot on the hwy(non turbo). It is a bad feeling, always watching the guages and wondering if this will be it's last trip out.

Well I could always just hone (can I do that with these?) and clean up the stock cylinders, get some hypernumatic or forged pistons, mich the crank (can you do that with these too?) and slap a turbo on it. If it'd be better. (I can compensate for the smaller pistons with alittle more boost :p


Does anyone know anything about these cylinder heads?

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...09200457907416

I'd prob want the level 3's..
$699.95
45 X 38mm Valves. These have more extensive porting and larger valves compared to the Level 2 heads, and shows that you are more serious about your motor and performance! Street engines with 94 bore size around 2.0L displacement will have around 165 Hp with these heads, when you have 44 or 48mm carbs.

I wonder how much low torque there is with this setup?

That $699.99 price tag is per head. I'd go stage 2 on a turbo engine, and spend more on a nice set of connecting rods.

At this point all I can offer you is a couple links for you to get information.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum....0f575bf83b257c

http://shoptalkforums.com/viewforum....0f575bf83b257c

I guess you could hone the 94 jugs if they are srait to start with. If you "Make up for it" and add boost you will add heat that the iron jugs may not be able to get rid of, but I already said that (said lots of other stuff too). With out a proven combo you could spend lots of money only to find out that it will not cool or run right at all. Do your home work and get the right combo. I have never built a turbo air-cooled but I have seen a couple of small type 1 combo's that ended up scrapped because the "turbo kit" was not supported after the sale and the suggested combo was all wrong. First you need to know the little tricks of an air cooled engine and a type 4 inparticular. If you have never built an air-cooled engine, I don't think a performance type 4 turbo engine is one you need to start with. You have asked for advice in many areas of engine work, that leads me to believe that you don't have alot of experience or knowledge when it comes to these engines. They are not like the radiator laden engines you have tinkered with in the past. That is why I directed you to Jake. You may end up throwing good money after bad trying to make a bad combo work or you can let a leader in the feild give you a turn-key combo that will work and give you years of service. That is what a resposible moderator should do. There are 1 mabey 2 other reputable type 4 builders that I could recomend and a few that I would not recomend to anyone. One thing that I would not do is start on an engine like this with little to no experience or with out the guidance of someone that I know has the experience.
Thats all I can do is try to give you the best guidance I can. And I have. My work here is done.

Price is per head?? Where does it say that? Is that how it works with aircooleds? :eek: :D

Thank you for you assistance. I've added up several times the costs of doing this. And one of Jakes kits just might be in order. Unless I can find a "proven" cheaper moter that does what I want. That is difficult..

Are there any good Type 4 tuners here on the west cost? (What about Type 1 tuners?)

The only Type IV specialty builder I can think of off the top of my head is Fat Performance, they have been building off road racing engines for many years now. I haven't heard anything about their street engines, good or bad.
Oh ya that is some very sound advice by NOH2O, I second that. Everytime I do trial and error building a VW engine it usually costs me a lot of cheddar.


Nick

I have a cardomain site that is pretty dated but has some pics of a spare block in the car and whatnot. Im still pretty much in the research and development stages of my a-arm suspension. It takes alot of reading to get a grasp on what need to be done to make a good handling car. im the only 67 ghia on cardomain. Ive chosen to redo the vw suspension due to the faults in the vw trailing arm setup and double a-arm is just cool.

My dream car is along the lines of the Bader Ghia. I'm thinking of a '55 Ghia, with a 9ff tuned 996 twin turbo engine, and the requisite 6-speed. Add a set of Brembo Gran Turismo brakes, 380mm front x 355mm rear, clamped by 8 piston front caliper and 6 piston rear. Mix in most of the suspension parts from a late model 911, and top it off with a set of custom 19 inch wheels, rolling Continental Vmax tires. I would probably have to drop close to 100 000 USD to pull it off, but as long as I am dreaming, I might as well dream big.

If it wasn't a 1302/3 GL then it would have to be a Graphite/Black Lotus Exige

my perfect car would be, full tube chassis, complete 996 porsche front and rear suspension, 996 porsche 6 speed tranny, a big horsepower WRX motor, with an early notchback body over the whole thing..........

The "funky green panels" man wanting to convert air cooled to water cooled??? I know, I know... because you can :rolleyes: :)

I would take a 50's bug full tube chassis, 6 speed sequential box 3.0L turbo T4
make it All wheel drive with some brembos and all the Custom CarbonFiber I can get...
and a Sweet Set of BBS... So would have to Drop about 100G's +
:)

Chris.