I wish the moderators would make stickies out of good threads, like a suby conversion sticky, wheel offset sticky, porsche brakes sticky, so everyone can just get all the info quickly instead of having to search all over the place.

Jason

It looks like I'll be joining the Suby swap club in the near future as well!

I've been toying with the idea of swapping a USDM EJ20 in to my '00 RS for a while, but I want to do something with my '71 Super. After reading through this thread it hit me like a duffle bag full of bricks, "Swap the EJ20 into the RS, then take my EJ25 and put it in my bug!"

http://www.seccs.org/forums/images/s..._brilliant.gif

I'm going to spice my EJ25 up via TechWorks Engineering bits. Or maybe I'll go all out and do something like- http://zzyzxmotorsports.com/news/300hpna

also check out outback motorsports...they do lots of sandrail stuff. I have never dealt with them, so I don't know anything about their service.

www.outbackmotors.com

sjd

ive been to outback's shop, they have a really awesome setup. They have alot of bits that are useful in the conversion. They told me about a conversion they were paid to do for a customer, in a bug.

They are a great supply for all the little bits for these engines.

Hey , I was in another thread on transaxles , and came across some posts that raised some questions that maybe some one out there can answer . I saw a 2.5L SOHC turbo engine in a bug , and was curious about the HP difference from the 2.0L DOHC turbo engine . How hard is it to bump up HP and still have a strong , reliable engine ? I would like to approach the 400HP mark and still be fairly reliable , or am I just living in a fantasy world with that ? This car is going to be more or less a streeter , with some time at the strip (if my wife will let me!) , so is it better to keep closer to stock HP outout ? Am I asking too many stupid questions ? Enquiring minds want to know! Axl .
Any and all help is appreciated!

KISS-"keep it simple stupid"
when doing a conversion like this, which is pretty involved, i would recommend getting the stock engine to work first. When u finally get over over 200 hp in ur bug, you can always upgrade later. Im sure youll be happy with the stock power, its not like a vw motor, it pulls hard though every gear. After doing the conversion, i doubt ill ever do a turbo upgrade, 200 hp is already plenty for a street car. 400hp almost seems ridiculous, but itll be fun if you can control it on the street.

-Ryan

As to the HP out put of the motors: the USDM 2.0 WRX puts out 227 HP.
When you are talking about the 2.5 turbo, I assume you are talking about an USDM STi motor ? That's 300 HP.
If you are talking about the '06 2.5L WRX motor, that one puts out 230 HP. (But I'd be surprised if you already got your hands on one of those ;) )

You want 400HP ? Have you ever driven a high powered car (or bug).
I'm not saying I have, but before you aim for goals like that, I'd say give it a try first. You might find that a 227HP motor is plenty.

Like Ryan (73Notch) says, keep it simple, you can always upgrade later.

-sorry for the long post ;)

Rob.

I have driven some pretty fast , high HP cars before (some of the new chevys at the dealership where I work are putting out over 300 HP easily) .Yah , I may be dreaming with 400HP , but I figure , what the hell , lets dream a little . I always wanted a car that would blow away anything on the streets . I kinda figured I would have to scale back once I figured out all the logistics , but you gotta start somewhere .

im sure all the chevys there weigh double or more than your bug too.

True enough! But they are still a blast to drive (especially the 404HP Sierra pickup I had in the shop the other day!)

400hp in a bug is not in the same ballpark as 400hp in a Chevvy. Without boost (around 215hp) my bug is very quick and with the turbo going full blast its plain scary and almost undriveable on the streets.

So what you are saying is there is such a thing as too much of a good thing?

Hey Axl,
If you are already going to build a tube frame, why not look into using an entire Subaru drivetrain? AWD Bug would be sweet even if it was a front mount job.

I thought about it , but I would want to keep the engine in the back , and I don't know about making it all work . I think I will keeo it as I originally planned .Axl .

Looking for some ideas...
 

I have a few ideas I'd like to toss around for getting my coolant from the front to the back. Ahem...

1. Run round tubing inside the main tunnel. Send and return. Pro- Neat/cleaner look, practical since everything else is in the tunnel Con- Tight space, and I havn't figure out a good way around the rear torsion.
2. Run one pipe inside the tunnel and one on the passenger side. (right next the tunnel) Pro- Not as clean, but clean. Con- A big hump on the passenger side of the tunnel, and the rear torsion.
3. Square OR round tubing under the car. Pro- More room than the tunnel. Con- Might limit ground clearance, and I'm a little uneasy about the pipes under the car.
4. Heater channels. Pro- Clean! I can check for rust while I've got them open. Con- A lot more work.

I'm thinking either 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 diameter. The radiator inlet and outlet are 1-3/4. The engine I don't have yet. I can always get an adaptor to a smaller diameter for the rad or weld a smaller diameter pipe on it. (I love TIG ) As for material, Aluminum, Stainless, and Carbon Steel are all options. But the cost might be a limiting factor. I have the capibility of welding all. I kinda want to say away from copper. Question... Would a smaller diameter pipe put a strain on the water pump by restricting the volume of water it can move? I'm an aircooled guy.

I'm sure I missed a few pros and a cons, But I've just gone blank on some of them. And please excuse all spelling errors.

Let me know guys. I'd sure love to have another perspective on this.

Oh my goodness, I can't believe I, Mr. Technoklutz, am going to make a suggestion about a water-cooled conversion ... but here goes. :rolleyes:

Make sure regardless of whatever method you choose and whatever material is being used you employ mandrel bends. An inch and a half or an inch and three-quarters won't mean squat if you have bends pinching off at seven-eighths in places.

And now, back to the experts. :p

theres pics on my site mikey that show how to run it down the tunnel, which is what i did.

1.5-1.75 inch pipe seems excessive in my mind. I mean, the subaru has like a 1 inch inside diameter outlet! and maybe 1.25 inlet.

Just trying to save you guys some room, and limit the amount of coolant u are going to need, and trust me, its ALOT.

-Ryan

Thanks Oasis, anything helps. :)

73Notch, I was kinda figureing that the radiator I had came with bigger inlet and outlets than I needed. I was gonna ask you about your Suby, I either never remembered or you were away from AIM.

What do you think about using 1.25 for send and return? still too much?

As for going though the tunnel. I'm not sure if that's possible since my wish bone doesn't unbolt like yours.

all i did was widen the hole that the shift rod from the tranny goes through. Id assume that its the same or very similar on a bug.

the tubes exit side by side out the back, but run on top of eachother on the passenger side of the tunnel and exit on top of eachother out the front.

http://subynotch.com/pics/SUBYNOTCHSITE/P1000819.jpg
http://subynotch.com/pics/SUBYNOTCHSITE/P1010217.JPG

-Ryan

nicely done 73notch, coolant pipes on my EJ20TT are 1.5 inch outside diameter by the way. I've put my tubes underneath the car and it took just over 20 liters in total if I remember correct.

I like the clean install of the pipes , but I still would be worried about damage from hitting the exposed pipes . If nothing else , I would at least make a type of shield to cover them . Axl .

Thanks for the pictures. but the Type 3's and Type 1's aren't even similar. There's no way I could run it though the tunnel like that. Especialy when it gets to the frame horns I have a big 914/01 stuck in there.

I'm still thinking...

I've got an idea rolling around in my head, I'll need a little time before I can pan it out. sorta speak. :rolleyes:

I will be doing that in a few months when the suby engine is transplanted to my IRS chassis, wouldn't want to go from watercooled to aircooled in a matter of seconds :)

Just a few random thoughts.

The idea I was trying to pan out, was running straight aluminum pipe till the pan starts to curve. then run SS braided lines. but I found the SS lines are expensive. :( I thought this would work since I didn't have means of bending pipe. Since then I'd rather rent a bender than buy the SS lines.

People say sheild the pipes. I don't remember the last time I felt rocks hitting the bottom of my car. Bottoming out the car? Has anyone that doesn't drive a lowrider bottomed their car out? I have never.

Wouldn't 1/16th wall thickness be strong enough? 1.5 OD - 1/16th wall thickness = 1-3/8 ID. (1/8th for both walls)

I had what I would almost call, a vision. I saw the pipes running together under the car like the picture above. (Tom'72's) but put a peice of C-channel. On top, as a cover. Almost like the C-channel I used to hold my radiator. but with differant dimentions.

I want to plan this out carefully, so if I need to do something, like change transmissions, pull the engine, change beams. what ever I want, it won't take an act of congress to get the water lines and other obsicles out of the way.

Please excuse the rants. That's one reason I started this thread, So I can ask any question or say almost anything (about the subject) and not feel like I'm hyjacking. :laugh:

I need some help, I'm ready to order my fuel line 3/8. I've got my pump bought, but I need a fuel filter. Doesn't sound hard, but there's a lot of differant filters. I cetainly don't want to starve my engine for fuel because of the filter. The only thing I do know is that I have Fuel Injection on the suby, after that, Nothing.

What kind? type? size? What do I look for in a filter?

I'm kinda clueless. I saw some that were $10 and some that were almost $100. :confused:

Hey Mikey , I would say that your best bet would be to go with something close to the stock Suby filter . It shouldn't starve your engine , and give you the flow rate that you need . That's just my opinion , but since I have not actually built my Suby-Volks Bug yet , it is possible that someone else has a different , and maybe better suggestion . Axl .

Thanks Axl,

Any advice at this point would be helpful. I had in mind buying a filter that would be an upgrade over stock, and allow me to up grade my fuel system over time, If I should feel the need. But from what I've heard, a Bone Stock Suby would be plenty of power. :laugh:

You need two filters, a coarse one between the tank and pump to protect the pump, and a fine one between the pump and engine to protect the injectors.

There are quite a few filters out there, as you have noted. I'd stick close to the stock Subaru parts until you need an upgrade. Here is a page with some suitable parts from Outback Motorsports:

http://www.outbackmotors.com/fuel_ra..._injectors.htm

George

I think that braided lines are overkill. Use Gates green stripe hose and it will last a long time.

Unless you are severely lowered or going to rally the car, you don't need any shielding for metal or rubber lines. Heck, just about every domestic car has fuel and brake lines run right under the body with little shielding.

One concern I have is galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. The engine is aluminum, while most radiators are brass. Copper pipe is commonly used in conversions, but some use steel or aluminum. As long as there is no external current path galvanic corrosion should not be a problem, but this means that you need to isolate the pipes and the radiator electrically from the body. Not too difficult, but something to pay attention to.

George

http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=7050 Here's a link to my build-up thread in the VKG section of the site.

I'll have to look into galvanic corrosion. I've never heard of that. For what it's worth, My radiator is aluminum.

Thanks for the advice. :D

Well, if you have an aluminum engine, an aluminum radiator, aluminum piping and a aluminum header tank you probably don't have much to worry about. :)

I was originally thinking of using copper piping for ease of fabrication, but perhaps after I get a MIG welder the aluminum might become more practical.

Did you mean, TIG? 'Tungsten Arc Welding'

It's possible to weld aluminum with MIG, but you need a specal wire feeder. A spool gun. Other then that you can't weld it with MIG.

Hmmm... I don't want to jump the gun, but I'm looking past my engine installation to get an idea of what's in store for me with the ignition.

I'm using a Megasquirt set up with the EDIS ignition. I've been reading on this site. http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm I found this coil pack. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku (I know I can get them cheaper used, but if I have the money I'm going to buy it new.) I can't figure out what parts I need total.

So far I believe I need:
EDIS module
Crank wheel (36 -1)
Crank variable reluctor sensor (VRS)
and 1 coil pack.

Is that all I should need? :confused: I am by no stretch of the imagination an electrician. So this is extra confusing for me. :help:

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/ex...atyouneed.html

Im not sure which board you are using, but i had to mod my board for edis.
That link above has a ton of info too.

Also, dont forget wires :p

new guy
 

Hello everyone, this is my first post on this cool site, I have been checking out this site for a while now, but never felt the urge to post, untill now, I am a 40 year old father of two, I have a fabrication shop in Bogota, Colombia, I do restorations on Barndoor buses ( buses from 1950 to march of 1955), we also restore convertible beetles (from 1958 to 1967), and convertible KarmanGhias (from 1958 to 1969), and ship them to clients abroad, I have always been a "modified" car type of person, I grew up in SoCal, (ex lowrider), I was also into Porsches, owned a couple of fast versions. I am an ex Marine aircraft mechanic), also worked in the aereospace industry in SoCal (Douglas,Northrop,AmericanAirlines). I finally joined this forum because I am doing some research for a couple of Suby powered projects, we at the shop are thinking of doing a scratch built, WRX sti powered, 1953 15 window deluxe VW bus ,with a porsche G50 tranny, a full Porsche 993 or 996 multi link rear suspension, with a 993 or 996 front suspension, we are thinking of running either Brembos or Porsche big reds for brakes, it will all be held together with a scratch built, custom rectangular tube chassis. We are also thinking of doing something similar with a convertible 1958 KarmanGhia "lookalike". We think this would be good publicity for the shop, and I really love doing **** that other people say it's impossible to do. Again, glad to part of this forum, and I hope to learn a ****load from you guys, BTW if any of you need fabrication services, we do it all when it comes to sheetmetal, thanks :)

Welcome aboard. :D Do you have a site?

Your project sounds freaking insane. I'm sure you'll stur it up with the vintage crowd.

Personaly I would have built a "low light" Ghia for my Subaru Project, but I couldn't find one in my price range, cheap. :laugh:

My question is ... how does a guy from Cali end up in Columbia restoring cars? I am sure there is a great story behind it!

Heres my conversion. Been running since late 2004. After owning the car for 15 years it's definantly the best thing I ever did.
http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/foru...y&cmd=sc&cat=6

regards
Jak

Actually my wife is from Bogota, Colombia, her whole family is down here, I was working in Miami as the director if IT, for a friend's wood products manufacturing company, I used to put in 15, 16 hour days, day in and day out, stressed our of my mind, one day after coming down here to bogota for Christmas, I asked the wife if she felt like "dropping out" of the "dog race", she was hesitant at first, but said she would support whatever descision I made. I came down from Miami a few more times, started setting everything up, gave my 6 months notice, and have never looked back, we have been down here 16 months now, and have no regrets, I started restoring BD buses (pre 55 VW buses), started selling some, overseas as projects, started making the metal parts to restore these cars properly, I have since started importing convertible early ghias and beetles for South American "consumption" (not many were originally imported), and things are moving right along, this place is nice, it has the usual problems a big city has (7 million people), the traffic is mad, the people are ok, I have never felt threathened, or intimidated, the best part about this place is the country side, man it is amazing, that is the main reason I do not want to leave, I have been all over the world 10 times over, but this place has the most amazing vistas, foliage, wild life, plants etc. But back to cars, this situation allows me to try and build the cars that I have always wanted to build, the BD bus and lowlight convertible ghia that I want to build will blow the socks off the VW crowd, some will like it, some will hate it, some will want to kill me, but there is no way in hell you will not comment on it, you guys are the "initiated/illuminated" ones, you guys understand what it is all about, 95% of the others do not understand, screw them, they do not know what they are missing out on, again, glad to be here, glad to be part of this.

Can hardly wait for more info on the bus and the ghia . Welcome aboard , gerson - nice to have ya here!