I saw that one but none of them give much % reduction in throw, most being around 25-30%? I'll be interested to hear how you get on with that JWest one...

The 25-30% is fine with me, especially since there is virtually no viable alternative. I was VERY happy just to find this solution :)

I like the subtle Max speed 195.3 KPH! Thats "goes like stink!"
Great job great build and details.. thank you!

Fantastic build, don't want to hijack the thread but I recently found these measurement of a G50 on a kitcar forum. Might be helpfull for some of you out there.

Someone on that site also put these ratio's for the G50 boxes:

G50/00 3.5 2.059 1.409 1.074 0.861 (after 1988 0.868) diff 9:31
G50/01 3.5 2.059 1.409 1.125 0.889 (after 1988 0.892)
G50/02 3.154 1.895 1.333 1.036 0.861 (after 1988 0.868)
G50/03 3.5 2.059 1.407 1.086 0.868
G50/04 3.154 1.895 1.333 1.029 0.868
G50/05 3.5 2.059 1.407 1.086 0.868 diff 3.333:1
G50/10 3.154 1.895 1.407 1.086 0.868
G50/50 3.154 1.789 1.269 0.967 0.756
G50/52 3.154 1.789 1.269 0.967 0.756

CAR PORN of the highest order!
it does make me feel the Neanderthal , hoping to fit up a 915 in a 1303. absolute ancient technology!
Great job on the conversion, now how about the money shot?
:driving:A vid of rowing through the gears would absolutely send me over the top.

Welcome 'supercool'!
Whats your name and pls show some pics of your 1303/project!

Maybe next year when the cage is in, I can attach my picture camera to the cage and shoot a 1/4 mile run. That way you can see what it shifts like when your in a hurry ;)

Here it is The day I bought it.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1.jpg~original
It doesn't look much different today, just much cleaner.
has around 30k miles and the only rust I've found so far is from long term storage with the battery still in the car. It appears to have rusted out and dropped completely through the battery tray.
The original 1600 was swapped with a 1964 motor, so I need to change that.

Great thread Wally.

I wanted to ask how did you deal with the front mount ? Did you use your original 915 (widened) front mount or did you adapt the G50 front mount ?

Do you have a part # on the Saab hydraulic TO bearing ? One last question :D

You mentioned the 964 100mm front output flanges from the 964 gearbox ... are the 915 100mm output flanges swapable or not (thinking not but just checking)

Thanks.

Sandeep

I think you're just sucking up to get a detailed answer mate :lmao:
Used the widenend 915 one. Just two holes redrilling, the other two holes were already in the right position. Plus it mounted on the exact same spot on the car also, so didn't need to relocate the car mounts either. How cool is that!
I didn't use the Saab part...
No, 915 are different, otherwise I would have used those of course ;)

Thanks for the answers Wally.

I just closed a deal on a G50/01 .... now to get that sucker to fit properly and remove the 915. Looks like I'll have to fab up another 915 front mount though :(

I'm sure I'll have some more questions for you once I get the gearbox dismantled for machining :eek:

Looking like the beetle will be on the road in 2012 now :lmao: Might as well paint the beetle white, put a duck tail on it and call it MythbustED, while I'm at it :D

Sandeep

Haha! Good one Sandeep :D :lmao:

Good call on the G50-01. Its very sweet, you won't regret it I'am sure!
Personally I am dubious of the 100mm CV's when you get over 450 hp or so and drag race now and then, but so far, so good and knock on wood.

Hi Wally,

I have a question about the LUK annular TOB. The bearing has an internal spring that keeps the bearing at maximum extension. I am not sure if this changes when hooked up to hydraulic lines (my next step after machining the bellhousing shorter) but would this mean that the bearing would always be engaged to the pressure plate fingers ?

I am not sure if this spring needs to be removed as I don't have any documentation on its operation / servicing. Can you please comment ?

Thanks

Sandeep

I left the spring in and it works fine. Spring still works the same when hydr.lines are on. There's just no real pressure on the bearing from the spring. I think thios was done intentionally by Luk. Just leave things stock if can be is my feeling ;)

Maybe i missed it, but which throw-out did you use?
Do you have the part number?

You are still using the SACO master, right?

How did the travel/pressure ratio work out using that throwout?

(Send me a bill for the consulting..):D

No part number, but its a VW Passat unit from Luk. Think its from a 3B/3BG model. Sandeep uses the same one I noticed.
Yep, amazingly its still leak free and works extremely well with all the porsche trannies I used.
:D Apperently, it just works. I don't know by what yardstick you want me to describe/measure this?
I think I just got lucky with ratios and travel lengths and such or maybe its just not as critical as one would think ;)

After digging around a bit, i came up with LUK part# W0133-1841866
It also fits Golfs and Eos of a similar era.

Once it comes in, i will be copying your (brilliant) idea.
I hope it works out on my 923...

By the way,
How do you bleed that sucker, anyway?
You don't have to take the motor out to bleed the clutch, do you?:confused:

I would not be too sure about that as the 915 bellhousing has less room then a G50.
I looked back then and no porsche tuner I could find including wevo iirc supplied a kit for this...
External bleeding with a T-piece where a bleed nipple is screwed in the 3rd hole ;)

Wally - do you have the workshop manual for the G50? Just picked up a G50/01, and need to disassemble it, to shorten the bell housing.

Thanks!

Hi Alexandre,

Not sure I still have it, not on this computer anyways..
Due to moving house, it will be a small chance, but I'll check later this week.

a bientot!

I have the full 86-89 manual but it is nearly 300MB!

Ricola - I'll send you a pm. Thanks!

I have an correct shortened bellhousing and mainshaft that we can maybe trade ?

Jim

Length comparison 915-shortnose G50
 

Blimey another night not sleeping thinking about parts mods for my car :roll eyes:

Wally did you have to machine the gearbox for the TOB because you removed the first rib off your box ? if I am not removing the first rib do you think I will be able to just make an adapter plate to fit the Audi/VW TOB ?

out of my depth here again :rolleyes:

Yeah, when your engine sits further back due to not shortening the bell housing, I suppose that gives you more room for the hydraulic TOB.
Since you're using one of those inferior watercooled jap engines however :lmao:, your dimensions may change in more then one way, so carefull measuring with a (dummy) engine seems neccessary anyways.

The original G50 bellhousing does have a lot of room though, so you probably won't need to machine the area around the intake shaft ;)

Length comparison 915-shortnose G50
 

Thanks Wally much appreciated.

Quick question about mounting the G50 to the Beetle transmission cradle. It looks like the OEM rubber mounts are used, and then a metal plate with a tab, to connect the rubber mounts to the G50 bolt holes on the bottom of the transmission.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...2.jpg~original

Is this plate custom, or is it from an OEM rubber mount (the bottom plate)?

I think it was a custom plate I fabbed up, actually just a piece of scrap metal ;-)

Since I heard a few of us use this thread for info on the G50 swap, I just wanted to give an umonth update on how it worked out over all the past years.

Reason to do this now is that something in my hydraulic clutch set-up has malfunctioned for some (still unknown) reason.
Sympton was a fall of hydraulic pressure so the clutch would not release. This happenend right after first start up of the newly assembled engine with the biral cylinders. Very annoying! But better in the garage then abroad as I did Santa Pod drag racing end of last season, where all was still good (10,58 quarter mile so it worked perfect then).

Main clutch cylinder (still the original Saco unit in the tunnel) looks leak free in the tunnel, so took a picture of the slave in the bell housing (G50 has an inspection hole, works perfect for a small I-phone hehe):

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2bb33b76_z.jpg

I suspected that it must be the slave, even though I could not see a leak.
So, removed the old unit, bought a new LUK slave, shortenend the arm, tapped NPT thread again, installed it all, but noticed I used a 'temporary' mounting back then, which had hold till now, but I was not assured it could be used as is the second time... (just a M6 tapped into the alu of the bell housing in 3 spots, one of them in too thin material).
Result was a sudden 'snap' after installing engine and a dramtic loss of hydrau fluid under the bell housing... The bottom of the unit was broken out of it due to maybe not seating flush or was it a quality control issue?
Oke... maybe the old unit was of better quality?
Mounted that, same result.. I was further from a solution now then before.
retrieved my old Saab (model 9000 I know now) out of the parts box and tried that again. Nice parts, didn't understand how that would seal itself after disassembling everything, but hey, I am no Saab TOB expert right?
As the Saab unit was about 8mm too high, I has a friend machine the parts so it would be smaller. As I need to start the operating range all out at the bottom of the 'stroke', trimming some excess stroke didn't seem a problem.
Looked good installed. Never knew M12x1.0mm connections existed, but thats what the Saab unit works with... Oke, got those suckers and installed them on some new lines.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8a67dcca_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8c050c0c_z.jpg

Still here?

Right, turned out the Saab unit did indeed seal on the bottom with a rather complex rubber seal that sealed off the outer and inner sleave.
No matter how I mounted this: with little or a lot pre-load or with or without silicon sealing added, it would fail instantly pressure was put on it.
I have never removed and mounted the engine block so often this last week.

After 6 or so failed attempts, I binned the Saab TOB and ordered 3 others (I am pressed for time as a trackday (Bilsterberg, Germany) is in less then 2 weeks) which looked low enough form their pictures online.

One is a Ford Transit unit, the other two are SsangYoung and Deawoo units.

The Deawoo unit is actually great, but its diameter for the (G50) pinion axle (1.0 inch) is just a tad too small (24,0mm).
The Ssangyoung unit fits the diameter but its base is too wide for my adapter plate. Both seem low enough though!

The Ford Transit unit however is lowest of all, fits all around and only has a weird line feed (press-fit?), but I think/hope that M12x1,0mm thread can be cut into the arm at a lower position.
Ordered the M12x1,0 taps, so fingers crossed it all works and solves the problem I had..

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...16280718_z.jpg

Well, I owed you guys (?) an update:
The old existing adapter plate I remade for the Ford Transit TOB:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7f538872_z.jpg

And it works perfectly! (finally)

and this is how it looks finished, not much to see, but there you go:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fdfd9cd1_z.jpg

Lemmeknow if this was any help to somebody?

Looking good! No G50 for me at the moment, but I rather go for a G50 instead of 915

Very much agree mate! I've driven both in my 1303 and the difference is such that you'd better skip the 915 all together ;-)
Dream of mine would be a G50 in a 412 2-door hatchback... but I sold my 412 long time ago..