Out of interest is the colour p018 bluetorange?

I was reluctant to straighten the shifter in case it was hardened and it broke, I didn't need to alter the shift rod length at all with my old chassis, I will need to extend it for this chassis, I was thinking of making an extension on the rear coupling.

where did you get the shift reduction kit from Wally?

the colour is Porsche 911 blood orange, not sure of the code

No, its just made of regular piss-steel :D

I'll look that up again, forgot, but somewhere in my old topic here...

Thanks Wally, I saw them on the Wevo sight but they are bit expensive at $595 US but no doubt well made

No, I haven't got a Wevo one. At Pelican parts they also have less expensive ones, just take a look there ;-)

Hi

Panel work is finished, it will be painted next week, then I can get started on the chassis.

I'm going to fit an air intake in the right rear mudguard like Jak and Ricola have done, I will pass air through a BMC air filter box http://www.bmcairfilters.com/eng/ota...0-85l230-b/812... Im going to lift and turn my turbo so I dont have to run air under the inlet manifold and fit a V band housing to it

I've fitted a E85 Walbro fuel pump in place of the Bosch 044.

Steve

Are you tempted to switch to a regular (non Subaru housing) turbo Steve seeing as you are re-making the pipework, I believe they are more efficient?

Hi Rich

This is the rear housing I'm looking at, V band in and out http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/390050

Started work on the chassis, I'm going to use 1 3/4 .95 roll cage tube for chassis forks etc. I'm buying a bender and notcher from these people http://www.affordablebender.com/coll...-tube-notchers

Steve

Hi Rich

I was reading your website today, how are you finding your frozen boost intercooler?

Steve

Seems OK and was cold to the touch when originally mapped, I have now fitted an IAT and also a wideband lambda and plan on doing some map fettling soon so will see from the logs...

New turbo housing looks good, I take it the new framehorns will have plenty of triangulation if only that size then?

Hi Rich

Lots of bracing and I can double up on the tubes if needed.

been getting a bit done on the chassis. I'm going to lay my shocks a little further forwards to give more axle clearance.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...f.jpg~original

I'm really happy with the tube bender and notcher that I bought from Affordable benders, really nice bend with no kinks. I made the first bit to go over the transmission and allow the torsion bar inner spline area to be removed.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...h.jpg~original

I made an extra base for the hoop using 50x50 tube, I made it into a U channel and I was having difficulty cutting a hole with the notcher until I welded a length of angle to it

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original


welded the hoop to torsion bar housing and added an extra bit at the base

did the big cut today, no going back now

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...z.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...7.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...w.jpg~original


also did the cut out for the 944 spring plates

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...p.jpg~original

Are you putting torsion bars in again? (not sure what else you are welding back in?)

Hi Wally

m going to use the short 30 mm bars that I had in my old chassis again.

Ok, but why not going coil-over right away when you're doing that much work already? They say coil-over is a big upgrade over torsion bars :)