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-   -   Mythbuster: continuing project thread of my 1303 '75 (https://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9953)

Sandeep May 13th 2010 15:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 75959)
Thanks! Yeah, your probably right as it all hangs now on the front bumper brackets. It would be better to support it a to the inner fenders as well probably.
Anyways, I did a test run today with the splitter for the first time and ... it stays put very well already :-))
Even above 200 km/h it doesn't bend too much at all. Very happy with that.
I got a youtube vid uploading now that should show how stable the splitter is.

Furthermore and MOST importantly I finally got the EBC working! It turned out I had a wire not connected at all.. (oeps)
I now can run a stable 1.3 bar (19-20 psi) boost.
I was so happy that I scheduled a new dyno run for coming saturday. Really, really curieus is or what extra hp this will give.


Fantastic developments Wally ! I always wondered what / how a splitter is / works ... looks pretty cool, and looking forward to see the video.

Are you talking about a seperate EBC other than the DTA ecu, or are you using the PID algorithm ? I thought you were using PID .... Hoping you hit 400 FWHP on the dyno :notworthy:

Best of luck.

Sandeep

Wally May 13th 2010 16:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandeep (Post 75967)
Fantastic developments Wally ! I always wondered what / how a splitter is / works ... looks pretty cool, and looking forward to see the video.

Are you talking about a seperate EBC other than the DTA ecu, or are you using the PID algorithm ? I thought you were using PID .... Hoping you hit 400 FWHP on the dyno :notworthy:

Best of luck.

Sandeep

Yes, I am pretty stoked its working properly. Its a stand-alone EBC (Gizzmo) after all, as I got tired playing with the settings in the DTA. The problem may have been the original volkswagen 1.8T N75-boost relais, not the DTA...
The boost relais supplied with the Gizzmo is very different and they claim its for better control. They might just be right. The original VW N75 relais may just be an on/off relais, while these are more easy to (PID) control.
I noticed the boost relais on DIYauto.com (?) looks a lot like it and I would advice to get that relais and try the DTA ecu-control again with that one.
There are so many variables which influence proper boost control, its not even funny... Other example: I changed out the original boost line from the relais to the compressor housing (very small inner diameter) to a bigger boost line and connected it to the boost box where all other lines come together: less boost at waste-gate setting!! The smaller line already caused a 0.25 bar boost drop, so inversely made boost better controllable (bigger line) by the EBC when it was working finally.

Still, the possibilties with the ecu are cool too. Especially the duty map (open loop) dependant on TPS and RPM is nice if you want half boost at half throttle for instance. No stand-alone EBC has that possibility afaik.

The vid had to be reloaded...just stoppd loading for some odd reason. I have had the spy camera mounted to the underside of the bumper aimed at the splitter and part of the Kamai...

Wally May 13th 2010 17:13

Its processing now, but this is the link for later:
Very boring vid, but it was just for myself testing the splitter movement relative to the bumper. Speed was just about 135 mph at some point so I know now that it will stay together for most applications ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rg4sjWuuY6Y

Wally May 15th 2010 11:16

Had another run on the rollers today after I finally got a stable boost regulation working.

She made ....381 Hp at 6650 rpm and 20 psi (1.35bar) :D
Torque was 456 Nm or about 337 lbs.ft (at 5300 rpm)
No engine problems at all, cool running and drove home again :D:D

I wanted to see if the CB hats were lifting at this boost, so I made a small vid of the engine bay during this 20 psi run. Don't see anything moving at all, so thats probably a good thing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hf9GfPYoW0

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...3.jpg~original

volkdent May 15th 2010 13:59

That is just awesome!!! I love your torque/power curve, looks like a lot of fun. Congrats on all your hard work over the years, I'll always give you a hard time when things let go, but in the end you've worked diligently to prove the relative reliability with big air-cooled power on a controlled budget. Hats off here!

Jason

ricola May 15th 2010 14:05

Congratulations, those are some good numbers!

Rich

vdubzack May 15th 2010 14:53

Daaamn It man, I'll never catch up now!

Sandeep May 15th 2010 20:35

:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

Sandeep

NO_H2O May 15th 2010 21:49

Sweet numbers Wally. I have thought about a splitter like that myself too.

Wally May 16th 2010 05:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by volkdent (Post 75994)
That is just awesome!!! I love your torque/power curve, looks like a lot of fun. Congrats on all your hard work over the years, I'll always give you a hard time when things let go, but in the end you've worked diligently to prove the relative reliability with big air-cooled power on a controlled budget. Hats off here!

Jason

Thanks Jason!
But I must comment on the "relative reliability" part :rolleyes:
If you referring to the broken rockers, they were just a tuning fault of mine running the engine into overboost and getting hard fuel cut-outs and associated backfires.. The funny part is just that a lot of ancillaries have gotten damage (bend throttle plates, burst boost lines, two broken rockers) due to the boost-cut-outs but the long block is still solid as a rock.
The basic concept of this type of engine has proven itself beyond doubt.
Furthermore, I ran the 350 hp tune over half an hour mostly WOT, full-on at a race track (Zandvoort). I did the same doing 8 laps of 10 minutes per lap (21 km's each lap) on the Nurbürgring last month and your calling this 'relative reliability'? Come on man, just admit I totally detroyed your reason for running a watercooled engine alltogether :lmao:

But I love you too and truely appreciate your craftsmanship on your car ;)

Its totally amazing that the 103 cast-alu bored Mahle-Oettinger cylinders held up as much as they did, while we all know that a smaller bore would have been much better.
Stock case, stock heads, stock crank and stock rods. "relative reliability'...pfft please! Aircooled FTW! :lmao:

70Turbobug May 16th 2010 11:36

Very impressive Wally!! As said many times before,the evolution of your car is phenomenal! :notworthy:
I don´t think it will be long before we see 400HP!! Were the bent throttleplates in the Jenvey TB?

Wally May 16th 2010 11:52

Thanks; I think I could have gotten the 400 with a little more agressive tuning, but the current map is very safe and good enough then ;)

Yep, they were from the Jenvey TB's. Not the Jenveys fault I must add ;)

I also bleeded some air from the Hurst line lock which made a pleasent difference on the drive to the dyno especially since I am trying out the ceramic front disks again:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...1.jpg~original

volkdent May 16th 2010 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 76010)
Thanks Jason!
But I must comment on the "relative reliability" part :rolleyes:
If you referring to the broken rockers, they were just a tuning fault of mine running the engine into overboost and getting hard fuel cut-outs and associated backfires.. The funny part is just that a lot of ancillaries have gotten damage (bend throttle plates, burst boost lines, two broken rockers) due to the boost-cut-outs but the long block is still solid as a rock.
The basic concept of this type of engine has proven itself beyond doubt.
Furthermore, I ran the 350 hp tune over half an hour mostly WOT, full-on at a race track (Zandvoort). I did the same doing 8 laps of 10 minutes per lap (21 km's each lap) on the Nurbürgring last month and your calling this 'relative reliability'? Come on man, just admit I totally detroyed your reason for running a watercooled engine alltogether :lmao:

But I love you too and truely appreciate your craftsmanship on your car ;)

Its totally amazing that the 103 cast-alu bored Mahle-Oettinger cylinders held up as much as they did, while we all know that a smaller bore would have been much better.
Stock case, stock heads, stock crank and stock rods. "relative reliability'...pfft please! Aircooled FTW! :lmao:

By "relative" I only mean that 100k Km from now if you've continued to have no major issues I'll be flying over to have a pint with you! It's super reliable, just not sure it's super reliable compared to modern engines. I'm not worried at all about running 350hp for 60k miles on a modern h20 cooled car, it's reliability over time that garnishes the "relative" comment. When that myth is busted (notice I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt!) I really think you need to write down all the things you've don, settings you use, and parts you've used because to me it seems like the perfect combination. Wish I had the skill and knowledge to be able to pull off what you did. Especially when it ends up sounding so awesome on the track!:D

Jason

Wally May 16th 2010 16:56

Hehe :cool:
60K miles or km's driving on the road using the car as a daily is totally meaningless for the engine with regard to stress and load imho. Its the track driving at mostly WOT and/or full boost what counts.
I think I put more stress on my bug's engine during the 5K or so I drive it per year then I do on my Passat that I drive 30K per year...

But I am also sure, I don't ever convince you right? :)
Which is just as well probably, as I don't have anything to sell ;)

petevw May 17th 2010 01:43

Congrats Wally, that's a badass bug you have on your hands.

Just watched your splitter, engine, and ring1/3 clips, AGAIN! :lmao:

Pete


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