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Yeah, it would be a FAT RAT!!!
Jake is absolutely swamped right now.............I'll do what I can, but count on mid sunmmer for delivery if I get the order now! |
fwiw, i got mine from CB since i was already ordering parts from them.
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Zen,
Correct, no threading on the bail holes, just drill them so the studs go through. When I get my 2xxx cc engine built, I'll go with a 911 shroud, but one from Germany. (Klaus maybe ?) and a cool airbox to match. I just want to get my car on the road and running right now. Sandeep |
ok, jake. we will talk hopefully this weekend when vujade comes up. i am hoping to tag along with him and show him the way up there.
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See you Saturday!!!!
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Update
Here's an update as to where my project sits so far.
I've installed the 911 Alt/Fan and wired it up, as well as the 050 dizzy and 8mm silicon plug wires. I will get an automatic trans dipstick (flexible) from a GM car to check oil with. http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Ready1.jpg The alt/Fan is genuine Porsche :D http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Ready2.jpg Now just have to install the BAS header and get a custom exhaust made to order. http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Bas.jpg After that I will make the moon cut in the decklid and hopefully I can be on the road in 2 weeks MAX ! Sandeep |
looking awesome Sandeep.
I bet you cant wait to get it on the road :D |
lookin good my man. looks like my shroud will be going up for sale after all of that.
i just got my BAS ceramic coated. the whole exhaust for that matter. i will get some pics and post them. pro-powdercoating (www.propowdercoating.com) did it. that is the same guy that did my fan. he did a great job. i recommend him to anyone. |
Love that exhaust! that the BAS one? how much was the total package to the US?> What are the specs of the exhaust? any fitment problems? have you ran it yet? Just curious
E |
Thanks for the comments guys !
The exhaust is a BAS 21152 in steel (going to get it ceramic coated gold !). Not sure of the specs but its good to 200hp. Let me know the measurements you need and I'll post them. I got the header from Oliver @ PTP. Took less than 2 weeks to get here from Germany using economy freight, cost 350,00 Euros, including the shipping, the copper gaskets, and the nuts and washers. Add customs on that and you have yourself a kickass header. I haven't fit the header yet. I'll do it this weekend and post post as well. Sandeep |
Some updates ..
I've fit the BAS header to the engine. When it came out of the box, I think it got tweaked just a bit. I spent about 2 hrs trying to fit it but it wouldn't go.
I stepped on one end and grabbed the other and gave it a good yank to spread apart the mounting flanges. This helped and I fit it in about 20 minutes. A tip, I used spray adhesive (3M carpet type) on one side of the copper gasket and stuck it to the underside of the head at the exhaust port. When the engine starts up, it should burn this away. One other tip ... I got new nuts and these thick washers from Oliver as well as the new copper gaskets. I had to shave about 1/8" from a side of each washer because there was not enough cleasance between the exhaust stud and the header pipe. No big deal. The fuel pump is installed and works great, very quiet. I got the fanbelt installed at tightened down, got the 96 plate mesa cooler installed with thermo fan switch and oil thermostat. The BAS header fit without having to relocate the stock oil filter ! BONUS ! There is about 3/4" clearance between the header pipe and the filter. This should not be a problem and I'm going to get the header ceramic coated winter 2003 and run a smaller diameter rabbit filter. All I have left to do is to get a custom muffler fabbed up, cut the decklid with a moon cut, and get an automatic tranny dipstick and I'm good to go ! Sandeep |
Sounds pretty decent! so 350 EU including shipping? that is a sweet deal!
Any pics of the fit? Thanks for your postings. E |
Glad to be finished !
Here's a pic of the engine, complete and running except for the muffler and dipstick. Will get to that this week...
http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final1.jpg A pic of the BAS 21152 42mm header, good till 200hp http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final2.jpg Another shot ... http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final3.jpg Sandeep |
Decklid moon cut
Here's the decklid moon cut .. I used a dremel with a cutoff disc. It cut very well, neat and quick. I thought I'd have to get the decklid repainted but the disc didn't even discolor the paint. BONUS !
http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final4.jpg http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final5.jpg http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final6.jpg I haven't moved the licence plate up yet and have cut no holes behind it. I'll see hot the engine runs, and if I need more cooling air, I'll cut a hole behind the plate. Notice you can only see the cut if you look from UNDER the licence plate light thingy ! The licence plate thingy was moved up about 1 1/2 " from the stock location. |
A better view of the cut. Its only about 1 1/2" tall. Measure 3 times ! Cut Once !
http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final7.jpg http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Final8.jpg So there you go. You CAN fit a FAT 911 shroud in a beetle with a 68' and later decklid ! If you don't know what to look for when you're looking at the rear of my bug, you'd NEVER know what kind on engine lurked under the decklid. I hope you all enjoyed this little journey and consider this thread the tech article ! Hope to have my beast on the road in about a week and then I'll post what kind of oil temps / CHT I'm getting. Rock On. Sandeep |
congrats. that is great news. enjoy it. i know i will when the time comes.
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Exhaust
Does anyone know if the BAS bus exhaust will fit in a Splitwindow bus with the rear bumper on? If not then what about the FAT exaust?
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An Update ...
Well I've been running the car in the evenings for 3 days now, making sure everything is up to par before I start driving it daily starting this Monday.
I still can't get over the power when compared to stock ! I WILL NEED a kafer-cup brace really soon. When I cut my decklid, I didn't make the cut low enough. I need to trim it by about 1/2" towards the bottom of the decklid. In hindsight this was good because it made me aware of the brace problem. I had these weird scratches on my newly painted fan housing .. turms out that the engine is 'Dropping' when I accellerate really hard and the fan housing is scraping on the decklid in the area I made the cut. So hopefully the cup brace will cure this problem. I'm sure it will. Another thing, I was driving behind a dodge Dakota last night and we were approaching a hill, a type of hill that I would not dare attemp a pass with a stock 1600cc. Well I passed him in 3rd gear like I would pass someone going downhill with my 1600cc after getting a good run ! I guess I can now confidently pass while driving ! AMAZING to me because I could not do this before. This engine really woke up my bug, and I can now drive like I'm driving a modern car with power, but is still aircooled ! I will post some engine temps and more experiences during the latter part of next week, when I have some driving time into it. Later. Sandeep |
that is great Sandeep!
I cannot wait to get my engine done...:D |
Awesome work!
In a related story, I was at The Hershey Pa Porsche swap meet and I met up with a guy selling a running fat shroud'ed 2.0. He didn't believe me that with a small cut you can fit it in a bug. If I had gone there with the intent of buying an engine, it wouldn't be on the back of his crew-cab bus. Enjoy and good luck! |
Temps update
OK,
Drove it to work this morning. The trip is about 15 minutes, with one valley (up and down, moderate incline for about 1 min) and the rest pretty flat. The head temp (monitored at #3 cyl) varied between 150 and 250 deg. It was a pretty relaxing drive, 80 kph (50mph) speed limit. Oil temp hit 180 deg (fan turned on) when I pulled into the parking lot. I accelerated up the hill in 4th ! I'll have an even better idea of how this engine performs when I go the Boxer AG meeting this Wednesday. I'm taking the long way there, about a 30 minite drive and I'll get it up to 90 - 100 mph for sure ! BTW, I cooked a 165/80 on the weekend :D .. had to buy some el-cheapo 195/65 's to get me by until I can put on my 18's. The muffler is still a bit too loud on the car (Dynomax Super Turbo 2 1/2", like a Porsche / Corvette muffler, inlet and outlet on the same side, mounted like 1/2 of the BAS system .. STEALTH ! I will need to put some stereo sound insullation on the firewall in the passenger compartment. I LOVE the whine of the Porsche fan ... It makes me want to drive faster ! Later. Sandeep |
An update ..
I've been driving the car for a while now, really happy with the way things have turned out. I have ordered some fatter idle jets and that should cure my low end backfiring. Driving impressions .. The car drives great, easy to start, runs well and has power to lay scratch in 1st and chirp the tires in 2nd (195/65/15). I've had it up to 90 mph on the freeway for 10 mins before I had to slow down due to traffic, head temps hit 350 deg (#3 cylinder) and oil temps hit 190 deg C. The 96 plate mesa with fan keep the oil between 170 deg and 190 deg. At startup I get 60 psi on the oil (Penzoil 10w30) and 20 psi when at idle when warmed up. The head temps stay about 250 deg during my daily drives and when I step on it, hit 350 deg, but cool right down again when I get off the throttle. I'll be taking it to a racetrack in the next few weeks to do 5 laps and see how the temps stay. I NEED A CUP BRACE BADLY ... I've embarassed my self twice now... trans pops out of gear halfway through the intersection .. (once racing a WRX and once racing a Riced out Civic.) Sandeep |
Hmmn, amazing, thats the same temps my bus engine runs, but it has a STOCK cooling system, 9:1 CR on a 2200cc engine (stroker)
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:sleepy:
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Alex....LOL :D :D
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Well then,
I have nothing to worry about if my engine is cooling within the correct range. Looks like I am not overcooling with my combination then. Saving for the 100mm birals and LN heads now. Sandeep |
You should get your engine (IDFs) tuned and adjusted too. This is will help also.
Alex |
Getting it done this weekend :D
Sandeep |
Update
I have made up some covers to fit around the Fat shroud. The area it covers is behind (in front) of the fan pulley towards the rear apron, seperating the top from the bottom of the engine. Its like the tin on a type 1 where the hoses go through to the heater boxes.
The idea here was to stop the 911 fan from sucking in air past the BAS header, kind of like preheating the air before the fan inhaled it. This worked out great because I can't get the head temp (measured at #3 spark plug) to get past 325 deg when I really drive it hard. Also my fan stays alot cleaner now becuase it isnt sucking in dusty air from under the car .. only clean air from behind the decklid now. Alex suggested I put a bead of silicon between the gap in the shroud and the fan so with this and these plates it looks like I save 25 deg on my engine. Sandeep |
WOOOOOOOOOO Sandeep
What a nice motor you have... it's finger likking!!!! That is a motor i want in the future....:silly: :silly: Or will I go for a WBX with G-loader (from G-60 motor), Turbo , dumbvalves, intercooler, etc.... Just kidding.. When is it going on a dyno?? I want to now howmuch HP you have?? Grt. Wiebrand |
one of us needs to make a template available for this. since i haven't tackled it yet, how about you? :D it would be great if it was available in full size in PDF so it can be printed (on plotter at kinko's or wherever) and used to cut the material. i have some c/f piece i will be using with no room for error.
as for the sealing, i have heard jake say that he has used the seal from bus sealing tin since it has adhesive on it already (double stick tape) and leaves it as easily removable tin. it is basic foam. |
Sandeep,
As for your 'desperately' needed cup brace, there is an easier way to tackle the unwanted movement of the engine: a rear engine mount is probably enough up to the torque of up to appr. 2,4 ltr engines. I believe on the ahnendorp site they are shown also. Its also easier to make yourself than a cup brace and if you want to buy s/th, the rear engine mount is also much cheaper. More torque making engines might overstress the rear bodywork too much, I agree, but for your 2 liter it should do fine...(have driven with one myself for years) Regards, Walter |
Racelook,
I found out that there is a chassis dyno about 5 mins from my house. It is an import tuning shop and I will enquire about dyno time. Zen, The peices fit very well ... LOTS of time making carboard templates and then figuring out how to install them. I have made them in 3 peices, will take pics on the weekend. I can trace them out full size and mail you a copy. This might be a nice option to add to the CarbonJoe decklids. Wally, Alex picked me up a cup brace when he was in Germany. Really nice unit.. but thanks for the suggestion. Sandeep |
Quote:
what brace did you get, CSP? i am shopping for one right now. |
Not sure on the brand of brace but its the same one Alex has on his chassis in the Cup Brace article. Mine is a 3 bar setup, Alex has a 5 bar.
Its a beefy unit with LH & RH threads, all of the stamped steel pieces that need to be welded and nicely machined aluminum bars. The connectors that screw into the bars are beefy aluminum too ... they look like the Heigo stuff. Too nice to hide under the body .... might have to install a plexiglass parcel tray so I can see it ! :hehehe: Sandeep |
Tin templates
Here's the pics of the tins installed. I just made some aluminum brackets and fitted them to some existing studs around the pulley, and then attached the tins to them.
http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Tins1.jpg http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Tins2.jpg http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Tins3.jpg They fit very well. All I have to do now is either paint them or get them made out of Carbon. Not sure yet. Email me with your address and I can mail you a paper copy of the templates. I'll just send them out regular mail. Zen, I have your address and will mail them out this weekend. Steve, Send me your address and I'll mail you out a copy aswell. Sandeep |
looks great. really great. i won't have enough to do it in one piece though. :(
i am also considering adding a piece behind the belt vertically from the top of the sealing tin to the bottom of the fan housing. and taper it to the angle of the belt on both sides. basically covers the chimney. |
Sandeep,
That looks very neat! Must have been a lot of filing to get it that nicely fitting. My experience is however that some sort of seal between the tin and your shroud is necessary to avoid the tin rubbing into the softer shroud material because of movement of the engine while driving. You may look into that? Also an exact template may not fit another car that exactly, since every car seems to be a little different around the rear inner fenders...(this is also why the BAS exhaust is a kit, rather than one piece). BTW Where is your oil filler tube? or do you fil through a breather tube? Greetings, Walter |
Wally,
I have just noticed some slight rubbing between the tin and shroud. I'll find something to put in there to take care of it. Currently, I fill the oil through a breather tube, but when I get the new engine built, the NOS case I have already has the boss by the pulley opened so I can run one of the oil filler/dipstick tube combos. Sandeep |
Oil cooler and ducting
Here's some pics of the oil cooler location and the ducting for it. Its a 96 plate mesa cooler with 180 deg oil thermostat and 180 deg fan switch and Spal fan with 30 amp relay.
http://www.germanlook.com/Images/OilCooler1.jpg There is a square cut out under the cooler that vents the hot air outside the body. the opening is covered with a tight mesh that keep debris out. Here is the ducting ... 4" aluminum duct with some furnace attachments that you can find at the local hardware store. I thought it added a 'race look' to the rear seat area... nice and neat. http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Ducting1.jpg I just have to get the cooler box made out of Carbon now. Cont in next post ... |
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