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http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Ducting2.jpg
Here is a pic of the scoop (furnace ducting) under the car. Don't look at the rotted heater channel :eek: http://www.germanlook.com/Images/Ducting3.jpg The scoop is placed behind the torsion beam so I can still add a rear swaybar and it sits about 1 1/2" below the lower shock mount. It does not rub on speed bumps at all. I just have to install the drivers side scoop now. I decided against the NACA ducts in the rear windows because I didn't want to cut up the windows. I want the lines of the cat to look smooth. You can't tell from looking at the car that there is any ducting unless you look underneith the car. The whole project cost about $20 buck. I have noticed that the fan does not come on as much now when I'm cruising. Before this mod the fan used to turn on and stay on on trips longer than 15 minutes but now it turns on and off intermittently on these trips so the duct is definately working. I'll see how it works with the second duct this weekend. Sandeep |
Great Job
Sandeep
Just reading through your project and the excellent job on this type four to beetle installation. Living in Toronto area and looking to do a similar installation of e type four engine in my super beetle I think you could be a great wealth of information and ideas. Looking forward to talking sometime. Allan |
Allan,
Glad you like the thread, would be great to meet you. Check out the Boxer Auto Gruppe forum for when our next meet is. Alex is in Oakville and has a big Type 4 (Porsche cooling) going into his '52 Split, Jamie is in Brampton and has a 2056 T4 (Cali cooling conversion) going into his ghia, and I have the 914 2.0 (Fat 911 cooling) in my bug, so between the 3 of us, we've got it covered ! Looking to autocross at Great Canadian on Aug 10th. Should be cool. Sandeep |
sandeep, did you leave your license plate in the stock location or move it up? looks to be in the stock location in the pics.
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Looks can be deceiving
Its actually moved up 1 3/4" and the space behind the plate is cut out and the plate is on 1" spacers.
Low enough not to raise suspicion and high enough to let the 911 fan get air. Sandeep |
sandeep, got any pics of the sealing tin around the front of the engine? curious how you handled coming up and around the tranny. i have the bell crank linkage there to deal with too though.
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I don't have any tin at the front of the engine .. the rear tin goes up to the manifolds and does a good job of keeping the header heat from the 911 fan.
Do you really need front tin ? It would finish off the engine bay though :confused: Sandeep |
yea. the idea is to totally seal off the top from the bottom. there are some challenging areas though. around the manifolds and up and ove the tranny. i had also seen a recommendation to use bus engine bay seal for the perimeter since it has an adhesive strip. i am sure several things could be substituted there though.
the aluminum should be able to bend nicely up and around the tranny. i am going to be trying to use various sizes of c/f, so i will just have to see if i have enough and the right sizes. otherwise i guess i am using aluminum too. just not sure how to get it looking right in my engine bay considering the c/f firewall and filters. i guess against the engine case it would look alright though. could always powder coat it too i guess. http://volksport.net/images/projpics/zen19.jpg still have some wiring to do. the CDI is in now (mounted just to right of left carb. coil and breather go in this week. then plumbing and wiring. |
Looks awesome in there !
Can't wait to hear about your first drive in that beast :D Sandeep |
the more i look at your sealing tin Sandeep and work on my template, the less i can figure out how you got those lines so tight. i have a couple hours into now and still am not happy. i never did get your templates via snail mail. i have no great solution for the front tin yet either. that's a petty challenging area. especially with bellcrank linkage.
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zen's 2316 t4 engine.
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no. weekend warrior. few to no emmenities to be a daily. daily is a 951. it has a/c and heat. :D
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Does anyone know of a dealer who brings these FAT shroud kits into the UK?
I want one but I am not getting any replies from FAT them fax or email, maybe I havent got the right email addy. How much you americans paying for the kit? Cheers Pablo |
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Zen,
I made ALOT of cardboard templates before finally cutting the aluminum. I made the mounts to the engine block first (L angle aluminum brackets) and then layed the cardboard ... if it didn't fit right, I just cut a small section out and then taped in a new section. When I went to cut the aluminum, the template looked like a jigsaw puzzle :eek: I'm working on a datalogger now ... 4 T/C's for each sparkplug hole, 1 T/C for EGT, 1 thermister for ambient temps, a hall sensor to attach to one rear axle for speed measurement, and an induction sensor attached to #1 sparkplug wire to measure rpms .. all based on a Motorola HC11 microcontroller. This should be a cool little project .. hope to get it done in time for the track ! .. a topic for another thread though :laugh: Sandeep |
Thanks Zen, took your advice and rang them just, $375 + shipping not bad at all. :D
A few questions for you and Sandeep if you dont mind: Whats the quality like of the fibreglass shroud? it looks nice thick at the edges but is it like that all over? does it fit nicely around the fan? All the shrouds I have have seen over here are crap to say the least, I think they must be a copy off a copy off a copy.... Thanks |
i was happy with the quality. i don't have anything to compare it to since i have not looked in detail at other shrouds though. fit and finish were great. it fits snug around the heads and the fan. i had to clearance the back for the bellcrank linkage though.
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I was pretty happy too .. The only drilling I had to do was drill 2 small holes at the top of the shroud so I could bolt it to the factory holes on the 911 fan ring. Great quality.
Sandeep |
:) Thanks guys, I m gonna order it, I better just wait till I get the catalog just incase there is anything else I want.
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thought you guys might want to see my solution to the clearance problem. i just bent a flat ali strip, painted and coated with rubber (which didn't turn out too good, but was in a hurry and figured i would make it better later). i ended up a little lower than needed, but a few more mm of height would have worked. the bottom is buffered with rubber washers. the shape allows the decklid to still be secured and locked as well.
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I must have missed something-Why have you made that Ali bracket for clearance issues?I thought this thread has been all about the Porsche fan conversion and having no issues with keeping the engine cover closed like a standard one.I have used the Sharpbuilt shroud and it came with all the pieces to seal up the engine bay.
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the FAT shroud does not clear the decklid. the fan sits on top of the chimney avoiding the need for the case to be machined like with other conversions. so a plus that you can throw a running TIV in the car, but a minus that it doesn't fit under the lid.
that is what this thread originated on...options to make it fit. cutting the decklid and moving the light and plate up is one option. standoffs another. the kit does not include sealing tin as it was designed originally for offroading (where they don't care if it fits under the decklid). |
I have a FAT kit as well,but used the Sharpbuilt because of the clearance issue.I just went back thru' the posts.I thought you had cut your engine cover already so couldn't work out why you needed the bracket-it was someone else who had done the cut-sorry.
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I use the sharpbuilt shroud and have no clearance problems, I have to admit there has been a bit of milling done on the engine casing to accomodate the fan but it works. Here is a pic,
www.sharpbuilt.com.au |
I have always told people the Sharpbuilt is a kit that fits straight into a Beetle engine bay.I forgot though that if you opt for the oil cooler in the stock position,you still need to make a small removeable panel to allow the oil cooler duct to clear the body.I have actually made mine a permanent body mod and have welded in the metal bits to hold the rubber to seal against the duct.Will need 2 seals to make it work.If I ever need to fit a standard Type 1 motor back,can just modify the rear removeable engine panel to suit.
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I am running an external cooler, mounted under the front apron, It works great but I am about to lower it some more and don't want to lose it on a jutter bar somewhere. I am going to mount a mesa cooler above the gearbox with a 12V fan to keep it cool. I found a good artical on that on the palican parts site, the mod is for a 914 the same rules apply.
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Hi Zen,
Well, technically speaking, the Riechert horizontal system didn't need maching either. Unfortunately, AFAIK, the Riechert set-up can not be bought new anymore. Greetings, Walter |
I have seen this flat setup avail from Ahnendorp or a version of it, and then there is LA Performance, hes gonna be bringing one out very soon.
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The Ahnendorp version WAS the Riechert set-up: he bought a surplus batch of them; they are all sold out now AFAIK. I know: I bought one of those from Bernd but have sold it due to 'other plans'. They will distribute air very evenly I suppose, but probably draw some more hp. Take care, Walter |
Hi Wally
Did your Riechert shroud kit you got from BAS come with the fan ring cos its shaped differently to the std 911 one. Thanks Pablo |
Yes, the fan ring is a special casting and fits only to an old model original 911 alternator.
Very stable design. Walter |
How good is the Horizontal setup ?
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Hey guys,
Lets try to keep this on topic. :) Sandeep |
Looks like that killed it????
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