Wow, where has the week gone?! My best friend is back in town, after being gone for six months, so I haven't been getting as much work done on the car as I would like. A sacrifice I'm willing to make though :-)

I have got a bit of time in on the car, but not a lot of exciting work done. When I originally ran the speedometer sensor wires, I knew I was going to need to run a second run though to transmission area. I was able to make up the second harness I needed, and drop it in.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/6...fc40afaf_z.jpg

Almost immediately after running the wires through I realized I had forgotten one. Doh! I considered pulling out the harnesses and adding a few more wires to them, but then realized I would probably end up one wire short down the road anyhow. With that, I figured I would put a third set in, with three times as many wires as I anticipate needing. When in doubt, build for expansion!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6...efb636cf_z.jpg

Also worked on making some of the harnesses I will need to install. Oil cooler fan, oil fan thermostat and reverse light switch.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6...d662a944_z.jpg

...and bought the bits I need to make the turn signals work in a late model. Should be back to regular work after the weekend!

-Dave

Almost there! Looks rad-ass. Are you leaving the bonnet satin black?

Yup. Bonnet and Engine lid were painted satin black by choice. The factory cars appeared to be satin black in the photos and video I have...so Satin it was!

-Dave

So far all of my 'untested' wiring has been working according to plan...without any trouble shooting. I did find one bad ground, which turned out to be corroded wire under the insulation, but I caught that before doing any testing. There was a pause for a while when I was diagnosing an errant circuit that was terribly confusing. Everything checked out from A to B, but the circuit wouldn't work. I tested, retested and retested again. Then I realized the kill switch was off. Oops!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6...91f42089_z.jpg
The oil cooler and fan are now mounted for what I hope to be the last time. It will basically boil down to whether I can get the wrenches in on the AN fittings or not. With that, I wired in the relay for the oil cooler fan, and the two switches. There is a thermostatically controlled switch on the cooler outlet, and a manual 'on' switch at the dash. I actually ended up using the factory defrost switch for this feature. I also took the time to wire up the reverse-light switch and it's relay. Putting the car into reverse gives me a nice click at the relay, but without any taillight wiring I can't confirm it's 100% yet! Both of these circuits required fuses in the back seat area, which will be annoying to get to. I used ATO fuses, and bought the kind that light up when their blown. I figure this way I'll have a good visual indicator of the circuit. Quite hard to photograph, but the LED announcing a blown fuse is quite bright! (not that you can really tell in the photo below!)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7051/6...d5525beb_z.jpg

I bought a set of EMPI front turn signals for the car, since the North American '71 sized units aren't accurate for the replica. Rob warned me the quality on the lights left a lot to be desired, but I really only need these to last while I find a good set of original ones. I had used them on my '69...for the black-out look, but w-o-w are these ones bad! Ill fitting rubber, ill fitting plastic...ahhh the joy. Got them all installed and sorted so they looked okay, and then realized I had a big brain fart. '71 wiring is quite different, and these would need to be modified. I had to cut the original bulb housings out, replace them with 1157 bulb housings, rewire for 3 wires (not two) and then reinstall them in the car. Between running around buying parts and actually doing the work, this wasn't a quick project. Pretty silly for something i might pull off the car next week!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/6...7b7838b2_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6...f3f7ee50_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/6...96c079cf_z.jpg

Wiring, done properly, takes forever :P

Managed to get the front headlights and horn wiring finished. Also got the rally light wires 90% finished and tested. I'll need to mount the Lights to the bumper before I can finalize it. Due the changes I've made to the factory headlight tubes aren't an option, and small town Canada doesn't have a whole lot of options for grommets!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6...e3ce04a4_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6...e72a2ae0_z.jpg

...but after a while, the wiring is done and looking clean. Driver's side sure is a lot busier with all the rally light grounds too!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6...63e8d8ca_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6...4b1b76bc_z.jpg

For some reason I can only find one headlight bucket that's not rotten, so I need to wait until I get another next week. Just need to do the fuel tank breather lines, install a trunk release and I am done on the front trunk...whew!

I also spent some time tracking down my brake fluid leak. I was losing a small amount of fluid up front, and thought I had solved it last weekend with the brake switch. Made me quite annoyed to find more fluid under the car this morning! It would appear its leaking at the rear inlet, between the white plastic bit and the rubber. I might get lucky, and it might just be the way I had the lines ziptied. When I cut the ties the lines moved and it seemed to relax things a little. Couldn't find any fluid after a half hour, cross my fingers!

-Dave

A tip for you that I found out by luck: some door wiring grommet convoluted tubes are a perfect fit for the headlight wiring, can't remember what mine were off but a trip to a scrap yard will turn some up, gives a good sealed conduit then!

That's a good tip...too bad I'm done! hahaha. Ended up doing a shorter day in the garage, but managed to finish off the electrical system and test everything. There are a few outstanding items, like my gauges which haven't yet arrived from Stewart Warner, but all circuits are ready for plug and play, and everything has been tested.

Here's what my rear taillight harnesses look like. You can see the grommet on the left hasn't yet been sealed, but the one in the fender has a pretty good seal on the fender grommet. The headlight grommets are done the same, and of course I've done both the body and fender side at all four corners.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6...c3e6a73c_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6...ae46538e_z.jpg

I'm not a big fan of grounding through light housings, at least not on a freshly painted car, so I chose to add ground wires that connect to a fender bolt on each side. The fender bolt nuts were all cleaned out with a tap, so I'm confident they're going to ground quite well.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6...a28ef54b_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6...ef475da4_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/6...54b4bfec_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6...9df3b8d6_z.jpg

And with that...it's time to move on to the next big phase of the project! (well, tomorrow at least :) )

-Dave

Couldn't help myself, and after a break ended up back in the garage mocking up various parts of the oil system. I may have run into a problem with my oil temp sender though. My plan has always been to run three sensors: One in the engine replacing the pressure relief valve, one in the tank and one at the outlet of the oil cooler. The theory being that I can then see engine oil temp at the engine, engine oil temp at the tank (required for warmup), and what the temp of the oil going into the engine is. I want this third sensor as it gives me more info on what's going on, and will allow me to diagnose any issues with the oil system, cooler size, etc down the road. This third sensor, though, is going to be a problem!

Here's the temp sensor. Sorting out how to put this at the end of the oil cooler is the trick.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6...67d176a3_z.jpg

Russell Performance has part #670350 which is a -8AN fitting with a 1/8NPT take-off, normally used for fuel pressure...I figured I'd see if it might be helpful. Now, I should note that I ordered this before I actually looked at the oil temp sender ;-)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6...15b3935c_z.jpg

Obviously it's not going to work just threaded in...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6...f4ba403e_z.jpg

So, through a series of insanely complicated adapters...one can make it work. But this isn't ideal. It's heavy, has five sets of threads that could leak...and, lets be honest, ugly!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6...c79f2100_z.jpg

But, it does get me thinking. With the sensor so far out of the oil stream I also have to consider whether or not the data collected will be worth anything. Russell Performance has this fitting, which I might be able to modify on the lathe to make work:
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc.../663010_lg.jpg

I'll have to call tomorrow and find out the I.D. and wall thickness of the part, to see if it's thick enough to cut down and thread for the sensor. Otherwise, I might have to eliminate this one from the system.

-Dave

Hi

Is that a VDO sender? You can get different sender shapes that maybe more friendly.

Steve

[IMG]http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...r.jpg~original~original[/IMG]

Hey dave, dont try modifying the sender. I learned that the hard way as I was trying to get it to fit into something and I ground it down a little bit. Then pop! the spring came lauchning out:lmao:

hahaha, yeah, I know exactly how fragile they are. Once installed one in a rad hose adapter without being grounded. When a brass sensor grounds through the coolant, they dissolve real quick!

Hey Steve, 320.028 is exactly the sensor I need...but so far haven't been able to find anyone who carries one. Got any sources down-under?

Tonight it was back to work, and to start off with...back to the lathe.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6...2cb18a2b_z.jpg

What I ended up making was a temperature sender bung and dipstick tube for the dry-sump tank. Hopefully I can convince my buddy Gord to TIG weld them into the tank tomorrow, and then I can pop that back into the car.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7186/6...ffeca263_z.jpg

From there it was onto the car, and the next major phase of construction. I finally got the metric Nutserts that I ordered in. They took three weeks to get here, but when they finally did the counter guy at Acklands-Grainger actually drove them 45min North to my house! The nutserts allow me to mount things where I can't reach the backside for a traditional nut, and where I don't want to wreck the paint with welding. So, at this point that probably means the whole car! The ones I order are shown to the left. With the serrations I've never had one spin out me, but always match material (steel to steel, aluminum to aluminum) so that if I ever did have one spin, I could probably tack-weld it to solve a problem. On the off chance you haven't installed these before, and decide to get some, don't buy the "special tool". The next size up nut (so the bolt passes through) and two washers is all you need to install them.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/6...83de410b_z.jpg

With the Nutserts in, and the swaf vacuumed up I was able to mount the Accusump for the final time.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6...9fca508c_z.jpg

With that mounted, it was time to start thinking about the lines and Accusump valve. I wanted something a little more accessible this time round, but also something that would remind me about valve #2 which will be the oil-tank cut-off valve. CanNOT forget that one! Here's where I think its going to go. With the valve in the closed position (as in the photo) the handle totally interferes with the parking brake and is definitely annoying/noticeable. When in the open position, however, it will lie down flat against the tunnel and be completely out of the way.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6...a0f20a9b_b.jpg

In order to continue the Accusump lines, and then make the mounts/tie downs for the valve, I need to know where the Oil Cooler Thermostat is going to go. The Accusump line will Tee into the outlet, which goes to the engine, so I have know where that will line up so I can put the bulkhead fitting in. Making oil lines like this is one part being able to think in 3D, and two parts having a tonne of fittings on hand. You want to be able to try different degree fittings, and then switch it all up and re organize. The problem, of course, is that as you start building lines you start eating into you stash of fittings! Fortunately I had enough to figure out that the combination of a 45 and 90 will allow me to get the lines right into the thermostat without binding up the lines. Even though this is all well hidden under the car, at least I know it will be neat and orderly!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/6...a89c0072_b.jpg

I was going to keep going, but realized that I'm missing one fitting I need, so I might as well wait until tomorrow...

-Dave

Hi Dave

I will check my local flaps tomorrow for a sender. Do you need anymore metric nutserts?

I came across the correct tool for them made by Wurth, I love it

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...l.jpg~original

Haha, one thing I do not need is more Metric Nutserts! When I realized how tough they would be to get, I cleaned out the warehouse :-) I've got 200xM5, 200xM6 and 100xM8. I don't think I'll run out for a while!

Hmmm...that tool does look trick. Will look into it.

Thank you for checking on the temp sender.

-Dave

Alrighty, so I mounted up the valve for the Accusump. In hindsight I wish I had mounted the Accusump in front of the driver's or passenger seat, thus allowing for only one line and the valve right at the sump. The problem with that, however, is that I need the leg room for long trips and I usually mount the fire extinguisher in front of the passenger seat. Oops! Oh well. The valve mount is a little "industrial" compared to the rest of the build, but I'd need to turn up some mounts on a CNC mill to improve it. That's out of the budget, so this will have to suffice! The E-Brake needs to be applied to close the Accusump, but if I tweak the handle just a little on the valve it will clear regardless. Closed and Open:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7051/6...64bc0038_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7054/6...4789d789_z.jpg

The long line is growing on me, especially since I was able to make it match the tunnel lines. It hasn't been anchored down yet, but will be once I have the line to the engine run as well.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6...ecbcf412_z.jpg

In order to do the line from the valve to the engine, I needed to mount up the oil cooler and thermostat, to see where the line was going. I made and attached most of the lines outside of the car, which made them a lot easier to get properly torqued down.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6...3da12016_z.jpg

Without a temp sender solution, I did the next best thing. I've got the adapter fitting installed, and simply capped off the hole with an NPT plug. If I sort out a temp sender, I can simply add it in. And if not, I only put in one extra fitting for no reason ;-)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6...80191179_z.jpg

And the maze begins! The "third line" going up and over is the Accusump to Engine line. This one is short, as it's only going from the bulkhead fitting to the tee.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6...e6476824_b.jpg

By the time I had reached this point, I had pricked my hands with stainless steel needles enough for one night! Back at it tomorrow :)

-Dave

I use a Kobe rivnut setting tool for the M4, M5 and M6 blind rivnuts (nut serts etc), It cost me £24. Its a two handed operation and can be used with a cordless drill etc but I use a 1/4" ratchet that sets them perfectly every time. For the M8 and M10s I use a tool that looks like the Landrover one that consists of two pieces of 1/2" steel bar with two 5/16" UNF bolts that force the bars apart and a hole through both to fit a bolt that holds the rivnut on one side. The whole thing is closed up and a rivnut is put on that goes through the panel hole. The bars are forced apart that causes the rivnut to set. The important thing here is that the rivnut can't rotate, which you can get using just a single bolt to set the nut causing it to unwind. If I have a problem with the Landrover style tool is that I can overdo the clamping force that causes the top of the riv nut to collapse, closing the hole and making the setting bolt difficult to get out easily.

i have a air powered tool for rivnuts. it could double as a torture tool as the part that slides is right were the web between your thumb and finger wants to sit on the handle. means you have to watch how you hold it or it pinchs you and you have to recycle it to get your hand out. how do i know this?......
has to be set right or you can pull steel m10 serts inside out but you can do m4 alloy serts with it.

Hi Dave

The sender from my local guy is $27.50 au, let me know if you want one.

Steve

Thanks Steve!

I sent you and email through the site, let me know if you don't receive it.

-Dave

Might try these guys too -- http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?...=250F_120C_VDO

Tried egauges before asking Steve to pick one up for me. Heck, even tried VDO North America!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6...fce6027b_b.jpg
Progress for today seems small, but these things take a while! I got the Accusump line from valve to bulkhead and from bulkhead to thermostat finished. Then I moved onto the feed line from tank to bulkhead, and mounted the oil-filter mount. This mount will get swapped out for a freshie, but for now it will serve well to setup the hoses. More lines tomorrow!

-Dave

So on our local Vancouver forum there was much discussion about my use of hard-90's for the entrance into the oil cooler. Debate over how much they restrict flow was heavy, but with all agreeing that they were definitely restrictive. While I have to admit I really wasn't feeling pulling the oil cooler again, it's better to do things right vs. getting them done. My bigger problem was the fact that I've drilled and mounted two bulkhead fittings that rely on the thermostat being in the same place. So, first job was to make a "pattern" of the setup:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7059/6...ec5615f5_b.jpg

And after a bunch of time playing with fittings, hose and more then a little colourful language...I got it all setup in a relatively close fashion. Flow through this setup should be significantly better I would think.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/6...3a178f6d_b.jpg

It was quite close to not working out...this is the hose I had to make for the oil filter return. 4 more millimeters and it wouldn't be going together!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6...ca7b8387_z.jpg

There was one additional advantage to changing the setup, I was able to move the Accusump return T to the bottom of the thermostat. This will give me more clearance between the fitting and the panel, which I'm glad to see. On the left is the old setup, and on the right is the new setup.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/6...43b999e4_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6...e2857646_z.jpg

Finished up the rest of the oil lines inside the car, except for the oil tank breather. I haven't decided what to do about the breather setup yet, so I'll deal with that one a little down the road.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6...6a081c5c_b.jpg

...and just in case you're wondering how I'll change the filter...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6...105b0128_z.jpg

A buddy Geoff has already commented on the risk of mounting the filter in the car, and subsequent oil-showers, but I always use Bosch, Mann or Mahle filters and have never had an issue with failures. Might have to box it in just be sure though!

-Dave

...and I've discovered the master is faulty. Or, at least an issue and needs to be removed to be diagnosed. Sigh.

-Dave

Whats the issue? I seem to recall you were having trouble bleeding the system (but maybe that was someone elses thread...). Anyways, how is the pedal pushrod adjustment?

On the rear inlet from the reservoir: the master is leaking either between the white nipple and black grommet, or the black grommet and the body...it's too tight up there to determine exactly, but it's definitely leaking. The fabric on the hose is dry, which leads me to believe it's between the rubber and the body. Will double check that shifting the reservoir lines around doesn't help, but I suspect its coming out.

-Dave

what do you race regs say about having the oil system inside the car? i know here in the uk it all has to be separate from the driver with a baulkhead between. the breather needs to be outside the drivers compartment , mines in the front of the car and the fumes still make there way into the car.

Oddly enough, nothing in the rule book about the oil system being in the car. The breather will be in the engine bay, I just haven't determined how I'm going to vent everything and where it will mount, which is why I haven't done anything with the breather setup yet.

Should I need to, I can simply flip the oil-filter mount to the other side of the firewall and run two more bulkhead fittings. Or encase it in a metal box...but for now it should do as is.

-Dave

Well, not a lot of work being done on the car this week. Had a bit of an accident on Sunday pulling the engine out of the car. As I was pulling it back to clear the transmission it started to slip off the jack, and I lunged forward to get it. Possibly saved the motor, but slammed my forehead into the back of the car. Still not sure what I hit. I remember cleaning the knocked-over brake fluid off the floor, but then I'm standing in my upstairs bathroom wiping the blood off my forehead. No idea how much time passed. I don't even remember writing the post above.

Will be taking at least another day off before I go back to it.

-Dave

S***ty Deal dude... Hope ya feel better I'v been there Done that only from the DH bike tho ;)
I love coming from the gym tho and knowing there is going to be a Post by the time I get home...
but just take her easy.

Chris.

Haha, yeah my snowboard and mountain bike career haven't been kind to my brain...so I'm far more careful these days.

Was back to the garage for a bit this evening. Started off with a bit of painting.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6...20d2fec1_z.jpg

Following that I moved onto a project which I started on Sunday, but didn't get the chance to complete. It began with some cutting carving of a fan shroud...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7036/6...c2f75d84_z.jpg

In hindsight, I wish I had started with a fan shroud that was in better shape. It wasn't until I removed all the paint that I discovered this one has more waves then the ocean during a tropical storm. From the get-go I figured it was a 'test piece' to figure out exactly how I wanted to do this...but in many ways it's ended up close enough to be useable, but just far enough gone that I don't think I can. The photographs I have from the original Salzburg cars shows that they were likely quick workshop jobs and not meticulously tig welded items of beauty. BUT, while mine may be appropriately 'period', it's not exactly matching of the rest of my work.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6...2b6a5b44_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6...d2d563c0_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6...817d8976_z.jpg

I'll cut the filler down tomorrow and give it a coat of primer to see how bad it really is. Maybe its useable...maybe it was a practice piece!

-Dave

:) Good work. Really looking forward to seeing this finished. And glad to hear you are recovering too

nice job on the fan housing - i recently saw an original salzburg rally beetle that is nearing the end of its resto - i wish i had taken pictures but if i had i dont think i would have left the premisis alive :lmao: it really is great seeing these sorts of cars being built!

Grrr! Photos would have been AWESOME!

Did another parts run yesterday, so today was a productive garage session. Started off with a relatively easy job, and popped the headlights into the car. I'm using an original Hella bucket on the one side, and mounting it took less then two minutes including polishing the headlight ring. On the other side, however, the original unit was far too rusty. I gather only the Taiwanese versions are available on their own. Now, in fairness I wanted to order something without lens/reflector/bulb since I already have H4 Eurolights...but had I ordered with these parts I could have got an original Hella part. But I went cheap...and wow is it cheap! The headlight is in, true, but if I need to change the bulb you have to pull the WHOLE bucket, not just the reflector/lens.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/6...1d85b1a8_z.jpg

With the fan shroud in primer, the flaws become a lot clearer. Left side has a bunch of issues which are 300% better then they were..but still terrible. The right side, though, is where I created the disasters in metal (big holes). Thankfully its looking not too bad!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7037/6...34f4027f_z.jpg

And a splash of red...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6...641eb179_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6...2bd2ebb9_z.jpg

Of course, I got all the way to this point before I realized just how painfully obvious the left side weld is. Um, was I grinding with a concussion...how do you miss that!?! Sigh. I had a good idea for hiding/covering some of front issues...but that won't help here.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6...70ba0c94_z.jpg

With the fan shroud drying, it was on to a more interesting custom project. A few weeks back a friend had mentioned that VW had a little-known accessory for protecting the inside of the rear fenders from gravel. Turns out one of the local Vancouver Guys, Bruce, owns a set and after a few emails back and forth they're now mine. The fender liners snap into the rear fenders, and are a little challenging to remove. This particular set is for an early car with the towel bumpers. The dark strips on both are from the tire spray, and the black marker marks are from where Bruce was going to need to cut them to fit a 73+ rear fender set. At first I was going to just going to snap them into my car, but I think the real value in these is the ability to use them as a pattern and not to destroy them with just one car. I also wanted to make a few changes to them, which would permanently wreck them...and, well, they're green. ;-)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6...58f3c6b8_z.jpg

So, I started to get my arts and crafts on with bristol board and some 1/8" LDHP plastic. I had the sheet left over from my last rally car project, so it was rather convenient!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6...989a3f72_z.jpg

After a bit I had test pattern number one. The slot was my plan for installing it with the taillight wires already installed...but later decided it was just easier/cleaner to remove the wires and pop them back in.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6...5d36fd50_z.jpg

Pattern one test fit, you can see it's not pressed up tight against the fender at the top, which means it will be sucking in a lot of sand/gravel and road crap:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6...edeb1fa7_z.jpg

So made a few changes to make it sit tighter, added a couple of features, and the final piece is right here:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6...5599f0c5_z.jpg

Inside the three holes I installed some bolts so that the ends are facing out towards the inside of the fender. I'm going to use these bolts to install short urethane mudflaps so that they hang down below the lip of the fender. That should protect the fender from the usual sandblasting that destroys the bottom lip. The final one I made here is tight...so tight it took me probably 10 minutes to wrestle it into the fender. I'm not sure I could get it out of the fender, but since it's finished I guess it doesn't matter...until I need to clean the crap out from behind it! Whoops!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6...8e91894d_z.jpg

The driver's side has been made, I just have to pick up the hardware and pop it into the fender tomorrow. On Monday I'll pass by the rally shop and see if they have any sheet urethane

-Dave

Good work. :)
I look forward to reading your [nearly] daily updates, also looking forward to seeing this finished.

Your post's are keeping the website running. :D

Love the gravel guards.

:goodjob:

get some RED urethane for the Flaps...lol
it will make it Bad@ss

lol. I always thought it was Wally's thread that kept the site running! As for the Urethane colour, I was thinking black...but perhaps red will be the way to go. The rally shop is heavily subaru based, so hopefully they stock more then blue!

Didn't accomplish too much yesterday. I got the other fender liner in, but it doesn't fit as tightly as the first one. Can't decide if I should leave it removable for now or make another one that is so tight I can't remove it...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7048/6...ca3147d0_z.jpg

On the positive side of things when I determined the cause of my brake issues I ordered another master cylinder. When Rob at AVR inquired as to why I needed another one, he instantly offered a no-charge replacement. Didn't even want the old one back! I had painted the case with POR15, so I wasn't expecting a replacement, this was a nice bonus for sure! With the new master swapped over and a bleed done one-man, I already have more pedal then I did before. The pedal rod is adjusted correctly, as is the pedal stop, but I still have a fair bit of movement before any pedal pressure. Probably 2" worth. Will need to bed the pads in and two-man bleed it before I call them "okay".

Finally got around to swapping the carbon fiber so it matches the shift knob...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/6...7c18aa5f_z.jpg

And cleaned up the shop a bit (for which you don't need photos :P)

Tonight will be a night off, and then back at it on Tuesday.

-Dave

With regard to the pedal slop, are you using a residual pressure valve on the rear circuit? It's something that i've recently found, that I'm hoping will solve some of my braking issues.

No residual pressure valve. I'm using the same brakes front and rear, as I did on my '69. Same pedal cluster. The only thing different is the super beetle line routing, and the master. So if I didn't have a valve on my '69, I shouldn't need one here!

-Dave

We put 914 rear calipers on the rear of my friend's '69 ghia, they're fairly small so we didn't need a bias valve either.

dang, i love them inner fender guards. you would happen be opposed to send me a copy of a template so i can make my own would ya? by the way been watching your build...very stellar work!!!