Very tastefull build. Solid parts choice and coming very nice. Engine details? Only thing not like is the black headliner make the interior looks smaller that it is, but that just my opinion.:)

That black headliner looks cool to me. But I also agree interior now looks smaller. Anyway, You don't have to do roof chop to get "that" feeling :D

I recently put a black headliner in my oval.
Makes the cab feel more cosy, like a regular car,
Not concert-hall cavernous like it does stock.

i remember my first ride in the back seat of a bug, and noticing how huge and high and round the roof was.
Wasted space, really.
if they weren't so damn hard to chop...

each to their own i gues. i like the black as it goes well with orange and i wont be having a back seat so i gues that'l open things up a bit. i also wanted a more modern look as clatter says. a lot of the modern audis have dark interiors and i think they look ace.

ive done a bit more and the majority of the wiring loom is in. just have the headlight switch to wire up and then start tidying the wiring. :D

Right....finally got to do some more work on it!!
Craigs polished under the bonnet and i finished the wiring loom.

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...2.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...4.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...7.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...0.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...2.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...1.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...6.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...5.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...0.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...7.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...9.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...8.jpg~original


Some of you may wonder why im using old VW connector plugs and uninsulated terminals. Basically i wanted to make the loom look like in belonged - original but slightly better. All the wiring is in standard colours with a few little extras. Ive added wiring for my guages (tacho, pressure, temp etc), ive added electric washer bottle wiring which works off of the wiper stalk, front and hear heated screens, lineloc and fuel pump. The fuel pump is wired in on a relay circuit so if the engine cuts out eg in an accident, the fuel pump cuts out. I wired in the original heated rear screen switch to work the pump when i need to prime the system before starting the engine ----> pic

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...8.jpg~original

and these two are my heated front and rear screen in place of the electric fan switch

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...8.jpg~original

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...0.jpg~original

and finally shifter with lineloc button (all the wiring hanging through the glove box is for guages)

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...9.jpg~original


i just need to decide what to do with these two holes in the dash

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...1.jpg~original

i was thinking about getting two hazzard switch knobs which light up - and changing the colours of the plasic so they look factory but can have one as a shift light and one as a line loc light

I love what you did with the wiring! Everything is so nice and organised.. I tried to do something similar in the engine compartment for the last month. An I actually see some stuff that I used too, like that small 6-fuse box.
What is the part number on the fuel pump relay? I heard of those special relays after I did my relay panel, and saw one on CSP for 60Eur or something. But I think all the old fuel injected watercooled VW's have it too. Just gotta find out the number that should be on it. I saw that all VW relays have that big number on top of them.
Oh, and do you take the signal for the relay from the negative side of the coil? I wonder what I'd have to do in my case... maybe from the Megajolt tacho signal or something.

Factory part number 443 907 385 will work. Otherwise look up a relay for a 1985 Audi 4000 quattro. Part number may be different, but they are interchangeable.

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carc...ump_Relay.html

Relay Terminal | Description | Connect To
15 | Switched +12V | Coil (+)
31 | Ground | Chassis Ground
87 | Fuel Pump Power | +12V Directly from Battery (remember to add inline fuse)
30 | Switched/Fused Power | Fuel Pump (+)
31b | Trigger Input | Coil (-)

The circuit requires that the coil be in the circuit. Just applying 12V to the trigger input is not enough. The circuit relies on the higher voltage pulse that is generated by the coil. Not sure how you would use that with Megajolt. I have successfully used these relays in tonnes of cars, including a '77 mustang with weird Ford electronic ignition.

HTH,

-Dave

The relays s just a cheap 5 pin relay. about £4 and heres the diagram - no need for the coil to be involved

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...umpcircuit.jpg

hope this helps :)

haha, that's ingenious! So as long as the alternator is charging, the fuel pump will work. Nice one!

The fuel pump shut off has been a big item of discussion on the VZI Forum and DubCrazee's layout is one that is often used. Personally, I have used the low oil pressure light to swich the system as I once attended an accident where the car rolled, the engine continued to run upside down until it siezed! With the oil light switching oil pressure would have been lost early in that situation and the engine would have been shut down earlier. Also, under normal circumstances there is enough fuel in the carb(s) to fire the engine with the fuel pump switched on but if the pump is switched off the engine just runs for the duration of the fuel in the carb(s) and then shuts down. It needs then to be re-primed otherwise the pump won't work even when switched on with the oil light illuminated. All of this gives a real headache to any little thieving b*****d.

Clive

Good point about the accident clive.....ive read the last bit of your reply and im not sure i quite follow though? im probably being simple

Well it's been a while since ive posted - and to be honnest ive not got a lot further on. i've been very busy working on friends' cars and starting up my own business so it's been hectic! I've put my 996 seats in and fitted up black sun visors and rear view mirror which isnt exactly exciting but i will be ordering engine bits this month which is a step in the right direction :D also, i had this made......which some of you may like.....and others may think it's a waste of time as it's not following the function over form rule of GL....

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...6.jpg~original

i'm absolutely chuffed with it!

also, all of my calipers have been refurbed and painted.....and the front beam is off for some custom shock towers. once that's done the front end can be completely assembled and finished just leaving me with painting the gearbox and building the engine. deadline for completetion is last weekend in march (volksworld show)

Nice touch.

Hi

I like the badge.

Regarding the fuel pump relay, I used a BMW one on my sons 1303, it primes in the start position.

Bosch relay PN# 0 280 230 001 (BMW 520i 1992) and have the following terminal information:

50: Start Signal (from starter or ignition switch crank position)
87: Switched 12 volts (out)
87b: switched 12 volts (out to pump)
31: Ground
1: negative side of coil (trigger to keep relay engaged - engine running signal)
30: +12 volts supply (switched 12 volts in )
15: +12 volts supply from ignition key

Very cool Dean. How did you have that done CNC? Subtle is good.