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I'd be happy to send you a template, would just trace it out on some paper and mail it. Anything I send you, though, will require some testing and fitting on your end. Material thickness and type will change the flex and exact size you need. If you get enough material to make three liners, you should be perfect. First one is cut to my template, and if it's too small to fit tight it's super easy to figure out how much larger to make your second one. PM me your address.
-Dave |
Dry Sump tank is back from welding, and back in the car for the final time. Other then that, I spent some time on Warwick's Mini and didn't accomplish much else! I did spend most of the time I would normally spend in the garage working on confirming all the needed parts to finish the car. The goal is to have the car ready for alignment in two weekends, which means having the engine installed, rear suspension mounts finished and all the other stuff needed to get it trailer worthy and running weight.
I am going to have a few issues moving forward though. One of the required items is a BMD serpentine pulley system. So far its the only system I have found which keeps the correct ratio between the crank pulley and the alternator pulley. The dry sump pump requires a 5.25" or smaller crank pulley, which then requires a much smaller alternator pulley if you want to have the same fan speed and cooling as a stock setup. Lots of lower crank pulleys available, but only the BMD system includes a well sized upper pulley. Problem? BMD isn't going to be building any for about three weeks. http://www.bmdpulleys.com/dry1.gif The current plan is to purchase the BMD kit when it's available, but I do need to come up with a solution in case they are delayed. The first event I have to run is April 27-29, and I'd like to get some shakedown done beforehand! I've called everyone who makes, or carries, a dry sump sized pulley on their website. Finally found a CB performance one which can arrive on Friday. That really hurt since Rob at AVR called me yesterday and asked I might need anything from CB performance...I said no! The CB pulley is a V-Belt style pulley, which does lead to the next problem: Pulley ratio. I'll save you all the math and figures, and state it simply: Stock alternator pulley diameter: 4.25" Required pulley diameter to keep the proper fan speed: 3.30" Required pulley diameter to keep the ratio I was using: 2.94" Available pulley's in 3.3" or 3"? Zero. The Porsche 356 pulley, which is a straight bolt on, is 3.75", which at least gets me closer. I'm also going to consider putting my current serp-belt upper pulley in the lathe to cut it down into a pulley with a v-shape grove. It's currently 3.75", and I think it has enough meat on it to get me down to 3.5" and shaped for a V-Belt. The only problem with that idea, is I have no way to tension the belt. I wonder if ghetto-rigging the serpentine belt tensioner to press against the back side of the v-belt is an option. Not pretty, but at this stage I'm looking for emergency-situation functional! http://www.cbperformance.com/catalogimages/1907.jpg One of the advantages of the CB pulley is the fact that its an aluminum pulley bolted to a steel center section. In theory I could have a serp-belt pulley machined and setup to bolt onto the center section. I could quickly turn down the upper serpentine belt pulley that I have now, and end up with a ratio that is almost dead-on the stock one. Problem is I suspect that having a crank pulley machined up quickly is going to be overly cost prohibitive, and I won't be able to maintain the serp-belt groves in the upper pulley. Come to think of it...I could just run the event with a standard oil pump. Geesh, why didn't I think of that this afternoon? -Dave |
After reading the whole post your conclusion was what I first thought might be an idea, however that is then an unknown for the next time around. But it does mean you'll get out and then be able to shake down that last element seperately.
As for the template, you could get it hosted somewhere as a PDF to print, presmably it'd be smaller than A3 which could mean it can either be printed at that size or enlarged at your local news agent with a photocopier. |
Hey dave...
So I use both the CB dry sump pulley 5.25" and the 356 and my cooling is doing fine... so if you really needed to in a Pinch it does work just fine. Chris. |
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My dry sump pump isn't finished in production yet, so it won't ship for my weekend parts pickup. At first I was a bit demoralized. I've been going hell-bent-for-leather on this car, and making sure I don't take any short cuts or "have to go back to fix that" before the car hits the road. But then I started to think about a new car, a mandatory event at the end of April, and (in the words of Eric Bana) the fact that "a new race car never feels good out of the workshop." Suddenly I realized this was a good thing. The stress is gone! I can focus on getting the car ready to run the Spring Thaw, and then pull it back into the garage to do the final engine setup. ...problem is, I couldn't do much else besides think tonight. I've run out of parts, or jobs to do until I get parts. It's going to be hard waiting until Saturday night! -Dave |
Today was a good day! After finishing the headliner a few weeks back, one of the local club members sent me an email. "Don't rip the whole headliner out, that's totally fixable." Hmmm. It took a few weeks before Gary was able to come up, but he arrived this morning to work some magic. He took a walk around teh car, mentioned that it really wasn't that bad and easy to fix. For the most part I did alright, except for one rather funny error. You know the door post pieces? Yeah, totally put the plastic bit in backwards. :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6...4fecc11a_z.jpg Gary pulled down about half of the headliner, and tore out both door pillar pieces. Some of the back section was pulled up in places...and then he got to work. The results are awesome Before: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6...7bd25c53_z.jpg After: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6...152cb44f_z.jpg Before: (A-Pillar hiding creases) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7141/6...d23b55b4_z.jpg After: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6...d628cbb8_z.jpg Before: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/6...c223f81c_z.jpg After: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6...61a0b981_z.jpg So, as you can see...totally worth getting an expert in! Thanks Gary! -Dave |
So the Motorsport CV-Boots came in this weekend, which meant some fun installing. The units I used are made by GKN, part number MSJ6002. They do require some modifications to use, but not nearly as much as I initially thought. The bolt circle is about 1-2mm smaller then the VW units, so to use them you will need to open up the six bolt holes slightly to to have them fit. The CV bolt plates will also need to be modified. Otherwise, they fit no problem :P
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6...a75af3ee_z.jpg In my case, however, the first one was almost a 3 hour affair. I knew the bolt circle was wrong when I ordered them, but by the time they arrived I had totally forgotten. I pulled the axle, swapped teh boots and proceeded to reinstall. Everything was going quickly right up to the point where I started putting bolts into the new boot. I could get the first couple in, but then they just wouldn't go in. Took a few tries/minutes before I remembered the bolt circle problem. Pull the boot back, drill the holes out (with a step-drill so they are still round), clean out the chips, regrease, and try again. This time I could get three bolts in, but then they still wouldn't fit. I was sure I was going to strip the bolts. WTF!?! For the next try I slid the boot up the axle and started putting bolts in without the boot. Again I could only get three bolts in. Obviously it's not the boot...but what!?! The axle was already installed in the car and I eliminated the only new part in the equation. Hmmmm. Took a break, had a coffee, and still couldn't think of it. I was working on figuring out whether it was the same three holes I was having issues with, or if they were moving around when it dawned on me... I bought six new CV Bolts as I could only find three for this last joint. The stub axles have been painted with POR15, and thus there must be some paint in the threads. After running a tap through all six holes, it all slid together like butter. Three HOURS to deal with one boot! Modifications required to the bolt plates: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6...a9758d2c_m.jpg The second boot was done in mere minutes, since I knew all the tricks...and the clearance between these and a regular CV boot is pretty incredible. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6...b7ee27a4_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6...bd22b75b_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6...bfa70cc6_z.jpg With that done...I moved onto other items. Had the heater going in the shop so figured I would lay some plasti-dip while it was warm. Before and after on my rear-view mirror. I just couldn't leave the dry-rot on the plastic as it was, eh?! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/6...d2201e07_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/6...b1f38e3b_z.jpg And FINALLY the gauges needed to finish the dash! Well, most of the gauges. Still no air-fuel gauge, and still no LED light bulbs...but at least all the holes are filled! I'm missing half the photos for the moment, so on a later post I'll explain how I get the lighting color I love without the LED bulbs. The beauty of my system is you can get any gauge to light up any colour you want, without LEDs, even the factory VW or Porsche gauges. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6...885bdb24_z.jpg With the oil-temp gauge came the oil-temp sender I needed for the oil tank. Installed and wired up! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/6...5f6de42d_z.jpg A big thanks to SteveC who shipped me the "available in Australia only" VDO temperature sender. This one is going in the feed line to the motor so I can see the temp of the oil going in (post filter and cooler). Sits one-thread into the oil passage, so I figure that's probably okay. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/6...72790d85_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/6...37f5b48a_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6...20b542b3_z.jpg Would have gone further on the car tonight, but it's Supercross and my living room is packed with buddies. Bumpers tomorrow morning! -Dave |
Dave, Any idea if they do those boots for 930 size CVs?
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GKN has three part numbers that are close to the 930 dimensions. I don't have a 930 joint, so I cannot measure the bolt circle of the mounting holes, which will be your deciding factor on whether you can make them fit or not.
- All three part numbers have an ID at the mounting flange of 107mm. The 930's are 108, but my Type-1s are 94 and the GKN boots I used are 93mm. You should be fine with 107mm. - All three part numbers have a bolt-circle of 94mm. - All three part numbers have a bolt-hole diameter of 10.2mm MSGN001 has an axleshaft opening in the boot of 22mm. It's listed as a 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 108mm CV joints and tripod housings. MSGN002 has an axleshaft opening in the boot of 25mm. It's listed as a 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 108mm CV joints and tripod housings. MSGN011 has an axleshaft opening in the boot of 22mm. It's listed as a 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 108mm CV joints and tripod housings (high angle). I am using a 'regular' boot (not listed as high angle), but using the part numbers above I would Google and see what you can find that's available. Of course, you're in the motorsports mecca of the UK, so GKN has an office in your neck of the woods (relatively speaking). +44 121 313 1661. sales@gkndriveline.com -Dave |
Amazing how many hours I spent in the garage today to feel like nothing was accomplished! haha. Just one of those days I suppose. Got some stuff sorted out, some stuff half sorted out, and then hit a major decision I've got to make about the car. First, some successes...
Started on the rear quarter window, for the passenger side. Initially I was hoping to do popouts on both sides, but I realized that replacing the glass with lexan wouldn't allow the popout to pull closed. So, lexan and fixed for the first side! I opted for 3/16" lexan, which is a little heavier weight then I would normally use for racing, but this particular window needs to be pretty rigid. On my last rally car we used 3/32"! Hmmm...that hole isn't stock? http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6...5e506c8a_z.jpg Neither is this one... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7051/6...2c8135f6_z.jpg But the shape and size are right, and fit the seal! But man, was that ever a pain in the butt to get in there. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6...21d91b32_z.jpg On the first go for installation we didn't get very far, maybe about 1/2 the way around before there was just no hope of going further. The only other windows I've ever installed (of this style) were the old quarters in my '69. I was reusing the old seals, and they just popped right in. Did I make the lexan too big (even though it's dead-nuts the same size as the glass)? A few texts to Rob over and AVR and I knew the secret. Why I didn't think to soap and lubricate the seal...I have no idea. Once we added a bit of soap and water it popped in fairly easily. Not like butter, but easily enough. The "fuel" cap is actually going to be the filler for the oil-tank as getting into the back seat is going to be a pain. I'll be swapping out the standard cap for a locking one, but otherwise that's the plan. The NACA duct will deliver moving air to the oil cooler, but I still have to box that in. The black lip around the NACA duct hides the cutout in the window, but I haven't decided if its going to stay. It's plasti-dip, which means it's removable if I choose to down the road. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6...1528bac0_b.jpg One issue I did have, is that this all fit with no problems while flat on the bench. Installed in the car, though, and it appears the window is a touch 'too big' and flexing in towards the interior. The odd part, however, is that against the factory glass I couldn't have gotten the size any closer. Not sure why it's bowing in like this. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6...8108b278_z.jpg Tossed a quick seal into it for now, and will probably re-adjust and play with it later to get it all fitting perfectly. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6...74434f15_z.jpg While i had the plasti-dip out, I decided I'd take care of the pop-out window that I'll be using on the Driver's side of the car. Yes, I'm fully aware that I'm going to have completely mis-matching windows Left to right...but the airflow provided by the pop outs is just too good to give up. And, I challenge you to look at both sides of the car at once! ;-) The popouts do, however, have a wide aluminum frame that just won't go with the rest of the car. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6...2aa2c96d_z.jpg So with a bit of plasti-dip, we eliminate the silver aluminum in a non-permanent manner! It still needs to cure some before I can install it, but I much prefer the look over the original. Might have to plasti-dip the aluminum trim around the door windows as well. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6...342bc6a7_z.jpg And with that, it's onto the decision making part of the build. Before I had even started the car, I acquired these four Bosch 220 rally lights. In a lot of ways these were the ultimate starting point for the car. They're great rally lights, justify all the Bosch sponsor logos on the car and they're pretty close to period correct. The problem, however, is they aren't *quite* right. The factory cars used Bosch Knick 180's, not the larger 220s. The size difference is significant. I've seen cars with both the 180s and the 220's, and while both look good, the 180's are definitely more proportional to the car. You can fit four 'inside' the headlights, while four 220's require overlapping of the headlights ever-so-slightly. And then there is the mounting. Factory lights were drilled through the front bumper, take a look at the mount for the 220's (off a Mitsubishi Colt Rally car). That's some serious mounting to keep them from vibrating! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6...9784da8c_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6...6a3fe9f2_z.jpg In the shop, between my roomate Warwick and I, we have three Bosch 220s, one Bosch 220 case without lens, three Hella 4000's (same size dimensions as the 220 but with way better mounting setup), and 6+ Piaa 510(?) series of lights. The Piaa lights are the same diameter as the Knick 180's were. Here's the back of a 220 and the back of a Piaa 510 for size comparison: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6...5cccf8ce_z.jpg There are so many reasons to run the Piaa's over the Bosch lights. In addition to the ease of fitting them, they're lighter, will shake less, I can decide on the beam patterns I want, and when I break them, parts are readily available. I own a vinyl machine, so with the right covers I could very easily make them "Bosch" lights. This should be a no brainer. Hell, the rest of the car sure isn't a "replica"! But a hard choice to make when the Bosch lights are right there... In the meantime, I started working on the mounts for the rally lights. I won't need to decide which lights I'm going with until tomorrow night when the tabs get welded on. -Dave |
Interesting on the plastidip, wouldn't have thought to use it like that.
I think you made the right choice on the smaller lights too. |
Nice progress. I too like the smaller lights.
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Clive |
Thanks Dave, they are only up the road from me!
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Love your project, The fact that you're doing everything from scratch makes it so much nicer.. Oh, and also in my ignorance, I'm learning about a few things like the nutserts, plastidip etc :rolleyes: |
Don't worry about the windows, both of my lexan windows bow in, though mine are worse than yours.
Also, learn from my mistake and make sure your oil tank is grounded or the sensor won't work :) It took me a bit to realize my tank was fully isolated. As for the lights I say go for the piaas even if you have to buy them still. The aesthetic difference and light stability are probably worth it. Thanks for the tip on the gkn parts, I'm gonna raid their catalog for porsche 100mm fitments and see what I can find. |
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Years ago a buddy installed a water temp sensor by putting an aluminum section in the middle of the rad hose. Worked great, even without a ground wire...for a few hours then stopped. Then a leak started. The sensor was grounding through the coolant, and caused some sort of reaction that ate away all the brass! I always check now to make sure I don't ground through fluids. GKN boots for 100mm CV's: MS5K023 - 99mm mounting I.D., 86mm bolt circle, 22mm shaft opening, 8.2mm bolt hole diameter. 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 100mm CV joints and tripod housings (no indents). MS5K012 - 99mm mounting I.D., 86mm bolt circle, 22mm shaft opening, 8.2mm bolt hole diameter. 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 100mm CV joints and tripod housings. MS5K024 - 99mm mounting I.D., 86mm bolt circle, 22mm shaft opening, 8.2mm bolt hole diameter. 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 100mm CV joints and tripod housings (with indents). MS5K032 - 88mm mounting I.D., 86mm bolt circle, 22mm shaft opening, 10.2mm bolt hole diameter. 'Fast' boot and plate to suit 100mm CV joints and tripod housings (with indents). I *think* based on the diagram that the indents allow for CV balls coming up higher then the flange level. -Dave |
Alrighty! Back into the garage, though this time I think the post is better if I start with the finished product first, and then show the work behind it:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6...5944d173_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6...9c4e875d_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6...996a1d03_z.jpg Some nights I think my roomate and I should open up a rally shop. The PIAA lights mounted to the car? Yeah, those came out of our "spares" collection :P Two of the lights were used on my '69 beetle, one is brand new, and fourth is a light that was on his Subaru but gave up it's lens to the gravel gods. So, if I simply get a replacement lens for the lamp, I have four. Looking at the photos though, they seem small. Don't get me wrong, they "suit" the car, and I'm not going to change out for the larger set. They just don't scream "80's Group-B Rally Lights!!" like my previous Audi did :P Throughout the mounting process I was continually thankful I decided to run with the smaller 6" lights, vs. the 8.5" Bosch 220's. Fitting these was enough of a pain-in-the-butt that I wouldn't want to try the 225's. The factory cars all seem to be drilled right through the bumper, but I have no idea what they did 'inside' the bumper to take the weight and keep the lights from shaking. Mounting rally lights requires two basic steps: 1) The lights must be 300 times more secure against vibration then you think they should be. And 2) make the lights removable if possible. There is nothing worse, and more tiring, then lights that shake and vibrate while running off road. The strobe effect is distracting and tiring. Removable lights means you don't risk wrecking the lights during the day, and thus blowing any chance you had at night. With that in mind... Lights follow the curve of the bumper/front of the car... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6...a46318fb_z.jpg ...but are not actually mounted to the bumper. I used 1" tubing, and some heavy-duty angle mounts to make a vibration-free setup. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6...87abed3c_z.jpg Beginning of bar fabrication: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6...47f0285c_z.jpg Mounting plates tack-welded on for testing. The two outside lights were relatively easy, but the two inside lights needed to be moved back towards the rear of the car slowly bit-by-bit to clear the front bumper. Eventually I had to notch the bar (pretty heavily) to ensure that I would be able to get a socket in to adjust the lights. I don't anticipate this will add any vibration issues though. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6...30680fc9_z.jpg With that done I cut down the plates to the smallest footprint possible, welded them on fully, cleaned up the corners and gave it a coat of POR-15. Based on the photo above I just realized I probably left a weld too close to the bolt hole, so I'll need to clean and dress that tomorrow and repaint. Once it's dry, mount the lights and finish the wiring. I still had some time before bed, so I took to finishing up some items in the trunk. With the fresh air box mounted, I needed to find a way to join the box to the defrost ducts. Eventually I decided that some aluminized jute padding would probably do the trick nicely...which it does. Problem is it looks like crap! Instead of that space-age look you think it's going to have...it just looks, well, cheap. I know the factory used plastic tubing on the inside, but none of the bits I had fit very well. On the plus side, tonight was the first time I have ever turned on a working Fresh-Air fan that I remember. WHOA!! there actually is some serious defrost air flow! Definitely did not expect that. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/6...d4800b8c_z.jpg -Dave |
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...z.jpg~original
Nice work on the rally Lights too man.. could always put some Spray foam in the bumper and shape it and then put that Plastic dip over it....I think it would Help with vibrations and abit of Aero ;) Chris. |
Hi Dave, what's the light patterns - my guess - the two outers are fog wide beam for seeing round corners and the centre two are drive pattern? Did you link the dip onto the main beam? I'm finding that reliable and very useful without the extra auxillaries for the runabout.
Whilst you have solid mounts I always found that spot lamp steadies were a must because even the highest frequency vibrations from the solid mounts caused premature bulb failure. |
Hi Clive, you got it! Outer lamps will be fog pattern and the inner two will be driving. My preference is actually to have Pencil beams on the inside with driving pattern on the outside, as we don't get the extreme fog banks that you guys get. But pencil beams are no longer available, and I'm working with the lens patterns I already have :) All the lights are dipped off the factory high-beam switch, but each of the 3 sets (stock high, fog, driving) are independently selectable on the dash. The top three toggle switches are the lights. Stock high, Driving and Fog lights. When these toggles are up, the lights turn on with the factory high beam. When they're down, flipping the factory high-beam switch won't turn them on. This allows me to be legal in BC when driving on public roads (only four white or yellow front mounting lights allowed), drop down to just fogs in crap weather, use only factory highs if the lights are covered or light up the night sky with all six!
If I had mounted the 220's, I would have used some lamp steadies...but I've never found them necessary with Hella 4000's or 6" and smaller lights. I've only replaced a single bulb in 10 years! -Dave |
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...47f0285c_z.jpg
hahahahahaha, so true. I don't need a beer tap in my garage, I need a Tim Horton's dispenser. -Dave |
Alright, I can't find a photo of it but I think we can all agree how your "first car" effects your automotive choices for years to come. The first car that I bought happened to be a 1989 Audi 90 quattro, a car which I still think has the best factory dashboard of any car out there. Even 23 years later the dash is still timeless. One of the best features, for me at least, was the night-time illumination. It was this warm red/orange. To this day I can't buy a car with a dash that lights up green. In my Audi Rally car I used Stewart Warner Gauges and their red LED lighting. It was good, but quite red. When I built the '69 Beetle I needed a way to get the dash to light up my preferred red, but with a mix of bulb types due to the VW speedo and Porsche tach. Anyone who has ever used the rubber "boots" that ship with aftermarket gauges knows they go white within a few weeks of use. Some testing resulted in a simple solution...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6...c434f3c1_z.jpg Two coats of Tamiya clear acrylic will give you an even light in the color you choose, keep going with the coats to get the color deeper and deeper. The clear Tamiya paints are available in a whole load of colors, so anything is possible. At night, my Bug lights up pretty well even across all the different gauges I have. Finished up the wiring for the rally lights tonight. Everything was setup waterproof, but a lot of the wires were visible, so I went nuts with the techflex. Chances are it will get all nasty and I'll be cutting it off in a year...but until then it looks fantastic! :P The wiring is virtually invisible, except for the one loop coming from under the apron up to the light bar. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7051/6...eca74bd4_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6...1b9b8ee1_z.jpg I've got a replacement lens/reflector coming for the broken unit, but looking at this photo it seems I might need to pickup some high wattage bulbs to replace the yellow H4's in the factory lights! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6...2fddb721_b.jpg Some buddies dropped by, so we were able to toss the pop-out window into the driver's side. What a pain these stupid things are to install, eh? I do have the hinge cover, I just don't have the correct screws to install it :P http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/6...aaebdfed_z.jpg Also this evening, I worked further on the hood lock/latch setup. Last night I had the lock working, made some adjustments and promptly locked the hood shut with no possibility of getting it open. After popping out the spare tire access port, I got the hood open. A few more tries tonight and I ended up with a perfectly working hood latch and lock system. I popped an emergency pull cable in, routed into the front fender. When my buddies showed up I was demonstrating for Scott, who bought my '69, what a factory lock system actually works like (non existent on his '69!). Went to open the hood and the handle in the glovebox broke. ARRRGGG! That's it. %$#! the factory lock, I'm just going to install a set of these to ensure the hood doesn't fly up. http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/sh...bber_hooks.JPG or http://www.rhdjapan.com/media/catalo...m/image_79.jpg -Dave |
Dave - fresh air box joining bits - the factory replacement parts that I got are just with a kind of black backing on them that have two pop fastners.
http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...6.jpg~original http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...5.jpg~original I'm informed that you can use silicone tubing. In black that would tidy up if you were that bothered, think I will be doing this at some point in the future... |
the rally lights are sweet! it will be like night and day..lol. what shifter is that you got in your car?
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The shifter is simply a factory VW shifter with an Empi aluminum short-shift kit. I've modified a prototype Vibrant Performance carbon-fiber shift knob to fit the shaft, and then sleeved the spindly little factory shaft with a carbon fiber tube. I *think* the production Vibrant knob will thread right onto a factory shift rod, but its been 7+ years since I worked there. The carbon tube, in my case, is a cut-down paddle handle which I got from a friend who owns an outdoors shop. ------ Tonight was a quick night, I was in Whistler all day for work and then down in Vancouver for the monthly club meeting. Put my minimum hour in and called it quits. I spent the first bit going around the car and touching up a number of tiny details I have been meaning to get to. Little things, that you'd probably never see but bother me! I think I'm in danger of becoming a perfectionist. Example? The razor I used to put the cut-line in on the plasti-dip before lifting off the paint wasn't brand new, so in a few spots it didn't pull on a perfectly straight line. A little plasti-dip brushed on tonight, and I'll cut a new line and pull off the excess tomorrow. Yes, proof I've gone insane. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/6...e1025314_z.jpg With various little jobs done, I figured I should tackle the rear bumper and apron. I knew this wasn't going to be a simple bolt on affair, you may remember I dropped the body off a trailer and the rear apron opening is 1+ inches too narrow now! With the right-side bumper bracket bolted on, you can see how far off the left-side holes are: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6...a5b20a49_z.jpg Using a rather dangerous combination of two pieces of wood and a damaged scissor jack, I managed to spread the bumper apart enough to get both sides bolted together... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/6...359c3d4d_z.jpg ...but it's not done yet. For starters, the bumper is slightly shifted to the left and covers more fender on the left side then the right. Normally one would simply loosen the bolts and shimmy the bumper over...but in my case it's currently acting as a stressed member of the rear bodywork. Loosening the bolts without something holding the body spread apart would be a dangerous affair! The second issue is the rear apron opening. The rear apron WAY closer to fitting now, so much so that I'm confident I'll be able to make things work, but it does need adjustment. I'm about 1/4" off at the bottom now, so I think I need to shim the bumper mounts away from the body. This is going to mean removing the bumper, shimming the mounts, stretching the body, attaching the bumper and then testing the apron. Again and again until it fits! Once that's all done, I have to figure out how to center the bumper! In the end, I don't know if I'm going to end up with a removable apron or not. Depends on how close I get it, and how easy it will be to remove. At the very least, even if I have a removable apron I'm not going to be able to remove the bumper. At first thought it seems like "well, whats the point"...but I suppose engine pulls will still be much easier. Let this be a lesson kids: Don't drop the body off the trailer. (but you probably knew that already.) -Dave |
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Clive |
Thanks Clive, I'll check out the options as you suggest. I've got a higher-wattage alternator coming, but I'm not sure how taxed I want to make it!
-Dave |
Good to see nice solid mounts with the driving lights.
Nothing worse than shaky driving lights when you hit bumps. I have to run driving lights on all my cars due to the wildlife out here, my bug and 4x4 are great, nice solid metal to mount but my damn Ford Mazda thing being a new modern plastic heap it was like they were sitting in a bucket of jelly. Had to do so much reinforcing to get them nice and steady. |
A short time spent in the garage, before F1 qualifying, but a very productive and satisfying one. For starters, I got this to fit:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6...ac1f48d2_z.jpg The rear apron isn't perfect, but its at least in the gap! Started off by notching the left bumper bracket mount a little to try and stretch things over. Managed to cut the distance needed by another 1/8". I was off just a little bit, but far enough that there was no stretching or sneaking it in. Hmmm...what to do? Occasionally, when working on a car, a little bit of violence is allowed. I put the apron on my lap, gave it a good shove in the right direction on the left side, and then a good shove on the right. Oh hey, look at that, fits! The best part though, is that I'm going to be able to keep the "removable" feature I intended. I've popped two of the riv-nuts / bolts in, but will need to mark (pray) and do the lower two without the bumper on. This means I've got to be quite accurate, as there will be no testing possible between marking and the first test! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6...c439ce3b_z.jpg Occasionally one should leave the garage on a good note, and thus start the weekend nice and fresh. Lets hope no one needs to "use" these decals during the Spring Thaw next month! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6...609efe73_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6...0953e0c7_z.jpg -Dave |
Hi
Love the light bar. I had an 1963 austerity model bug that I used to do a bit of motor sport with. http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg~original It had 2 Cibie Super Oscars in the middle and 2 Oscars on the outside pointing out a little to look around corners. http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...a.jpg~original When my son was learning to drive we had to do a few interstate trips, so knocked up a light bar and fitted 4 Cibie Super Oscars. Steve |
Is that your GH Sigma there Steve?
Makes me feel old that I'm the same age as one of them :lmao:. |
Hi
The Sigma was my wife's car, traded a 68 Type 3 wagon in on it, misses wanted AC. Steve |
Hmmm...this is why I update the thread every night I work on the car. It's Sunday, my last update was Friday before bed, so surely there is a tonne to update! I checked the camera, and I have only two new photographs. Geesh, I was down there for two days...what did I do!?!
I did finish up the rear apron mounts, which required stretching and releasing the rear body structure a few more times. I've got the bumper pretty even left to right, and the apron pops in and out easily (as long as you leave the bumper attached) so I figure that's probably going to give me enough access and clearance to make pulling motors easy enough. Then this morning I tore it all down again so that I could paint anywhere I cut or drilled through to bare metal. I finally got around to cleaning up all the wiring above the transmission. With the changes to the oil cooler routing, and a change I made to the oil-cooler fan, some of the wires were too long. The rest of them were just popped in temporarily waiting for everything that could end up in the way to be installed. All were hortened where appropriate, and then mounted and cleaned up. Tomorrow I'll pickup the aluminum I need to make the cover for this access hole, install the rear windshield and then the "back seat" area is finished. That will allow me to move onto mounting the belts and seats. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6100/6...9a4e5845_z.jpg The next major step is the engine. My dry-sump pump still isn't ready, but I have to run the car for The Spring Thaw April 27-29, so I figure I better get something together and give myself time to sort out the car! So, I reassembled my 1776 with the 26mm standard oil pump and some new tin. I'll run the engine with my Kadron carbs until after the Spring Thaw, and when I switch over to the dry-sump oiling I'll switch over to a set of IDF carbs. You might be wondering about the red fan shroud, and questioning my taste in clown-car engine tin colors...but there is a good and valid reason for it! Once I switch over to the IDF's I'll switch over to the Salzburg style shroud I made and painted. Problem is I only have one set of generator backing tins. My theory was the engine would look worse with a black shroud and red backing plates then it does with an all red shroud combo. But, if I'm honest, I really do hate it! It's everything I can do not to pull out the paint and make it black :P http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7064/6...f6b87b42_z.jpg Hopefully I can find some lower mounting studs in the the length that I need. That's the hold up now for installing the engine and determining the location of the fuel pressure regulator and crankcase breather box. Of course, that does lead me to a new problem...I haven't really determined my crankcase breather setup, or even where I'm going to pull from. Something like this will make the line routing the cleanest with the Kadron carbs: http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog...3246detail.jpg But these seem to be far easier to obtain on short notice, and while it will be a pain with the Kadrons, it will likely be much neater with the IDFs. http://www2.cip1.com/v/vspfiles/phot...-17-2927-1.jpg Hmmm... -Dave |
Hi Dave
Very neat work. Can you buy lengths of high tensile metric threaded rod where you are for the lower studs? Steve |
That was the first thing I checked, right after regular studs. Metric threaded rod, no problem. High-Ten threaded rod, problem. I did find a Ford part number for a metric stud, M10 x 120. I've got two coming into the local dealer tomorrow, and we'll see if they're workable.
Otherwise, it's down to Vancouver and wait a week for the Porsche dealer to bring in the 911 mounting studs. -Dave |
Hi Dave
I think that I may have some kicking around if the other sources don't pan out. I think auto Kombis used longer lower studs. The VW parts system have a thing called "lak & normal telle" (spelling maybe wrong). I lists every nut bolt used on any VW by part number, maybe an idea to talk to VW dealer parts section. Steve |
A type 4 stud should work.
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That's what I thought. Drove over to my storage unit, dug the type 4 motor out, pulled the studs, and they are the same...or at least, mine are :P
-Dave |
I've got the proper studs coming from Porsche, but its going to be a week or two before they arrive. So, in the meantime, I'm working on other items that are needed to install the engine. Everything at this stage is taking twice as long as it should, because I'm needing to plan ahead. Everything I drill a hole for is permanent...so it needs to not only work with the engine as its but more importantly, it needs to work with the engine I build with IDF's and the Salzburg-style shroud.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/7...8e721f9f_z.jpg After a bunch of testing and measuring I finally determined the positioning for the crankcase breather, fuel pressure regulator and oil pressure sender. Fuel pressure regulator (still need a fitting and a new gauge), and oil pressure sender. I won't be able to fit the Stewart-Warner sender in the same spot I had the Autometer sender as the body size is larger. I had done a remote sender on Connor's mustang, so I had all the -3AN fittings and lines on the shelf...so tucked this one out of the way with a left-over Coil bracket. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7239/7...676dbf30_z.jpg On the crankcase breather side, I decided to reuse the Moroso unit I had, instead of getting one of the rectangular box styles. For now I'll run both the valve covers and crankcase into this one unit, but when I hook up the dry sump system I think I'm going to mount a second one right beside it. I tend to forget about checking them for oil, and would rather not end up with a huge mess. The oil tank will be running a fairly high level of oil, so better to play it safe since I have the real-estate. I did realize that I own a 3/8NPT tap from modifying oil pumps, so made up a crankcase breather that I can use for now. I'm tempted to cut the threads deeper on the part, but the threads were cutting odd and I'm not really sure what type of aluminum it is...played it safe for now. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/6...24e763d6_z.jpg And lastly, the stud problem. With the proper Porsche studs coming, I figured I could mount the engine using bolts. The only reason I didn't, its the need to guide the engine in using just the input shaft on the transmission. So, some Audi engine bolts sacrificed their lives to become temporary engine studs. Cut threads aren't ideal, and leave a major stress riser right at the base of the last thread...so I'll swap these out as soon as I can. For the moment, however, they should work. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/6...f27b5f91_z.jpg -Dave |
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