Hi

the welding on the bell housing appears to be successful, new chassis is under way and looking good, I've already moved my shifter forward 100 mm and moved my brake MC over 30 mm and fitted the clutch slave next to it like I did with my old pan.

I have some really good ideas on the G50 pan clearancing, I'm making new forks etc from 1 3/4 roll cage tubing, it should cut weight down a lot.

I've fitted new CNC cut pans supplied my friend Glenn whos on here but I cant remember his user name, taking the chassis to the panel beater today to make sure it fits together OK.

Steve

Hi, some clarity please. 100mm forward, from your picture, you look over 6ft tall. My bug, I moved my shifter about four inches rearward. I"m 6"2, I drove my blue bug with the seat almost contacting the back seat. 100 equates to 4".

Hi

The G50 shifter bends back towards the driver, so in 2nd & 4th my elbow was next to my body. I am about 6.1 and a bit, but I'm old so I'm shrinking.

Body is now temporarily on the pan so the panel beater can give it a tug to line the front 1/4 back up again, once he's finished with it I will get the pan finished off and painted.

On Wednesday I'm driving to Birdsville in outback Queensland for music concert http://www.bigredbash.com.au/bigredbash/index , after I get back from Birdsville I have 2 weeks of work then a week long VW show http://volkswagenspectacular.com/, then after that I'm back into getting my bug back on the road.

Entries are open Wednesday for the Snowy Mountains 1000 in November, if I cant get my bug ready in time I will take my rice rocket daily a 180SX Nissan.

Steve

Your shifter rod, effect on shifter sweep/pattern, is this because of you using the Porsche rod itself?

The reason for the questions are, at some point I will be headed in that direction. My co-worker that sold me the G-50 also has the shifter and rod to sell. I have been thinking on a more straight line shift rod install. At present I have two u-joints for the same purpose. I may even sink the thifter lower into the tunnel, in order to attain a better straightness; but this is all in my head.

Thank you for putting up with me.

Indeed. I straigthened the shifter for that reason (and used a 30% shift throw reduction kit). Problem solved ;)

Out of interest is the colour p018 bluetorange?

I was reluctant to straighten the shifter in case it was hardened and it broke, I didn't need to alter the shift rod length at all with my old chassis, I will need to extend it for this chassis, I was thinking of making an extension on the rear coupling.

where did you get the shift reduction kit from Wally?

the colour is Porsche 911 blood orange, not sure of the code

No, its just made of regular piss-steel :D

I'll look that up again, forgot, but somewhere in my old topic here...

Thanks Wally, I saw them on the Wevo sight but they are bit expensive at $595 US but no doubt well made

No, I haven't got a Wevo one. At Pelican parts they also have less expensive ones, just take a look there ;-)

Hi

Panel work is finished, it will be painted next week, then I can get started on the chassis.

I'm going to fit an air intake in the right rear mudguard like Jak and Ricola have done, I will pass air through a BMC air filter box http://www.bmcairfilters.com/eng/ota...0-85l230-b/812... Im going to lift and turn my turbo so I dont have to run air under the inlet manifold and fit a V band housing to it

I've fitted a E85 Walbro fuel pump in place of the Bosch 044.

Steve

Are you tempted to switch to a regular (non Subaru housing) turbo Steve seeing as you are re-making the pipework, I believe they are more efficient?

Hi Rich

This is the rear housing I'm looking at, V band in and out http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/390050

Started work on the chassis, I'm going to use 1 3/4 .95 roll cage tube for chassis forks etc. I'm buying a bender and notcher from these people http://www.affordablebender.com/coll...-tube-notchers

Steve

Hi Rich

I was reading your website today, how are you finding your frozen boost intercooler?

Steve

Seems OK and was cold to the touch when originally mapped, I have now fitted an IAT and also a wideband lambda and plan on doing some map fettling soon so will see from the logs...

New turbo housing looks good, I take it the new framehorns will have plenty of triangulation if only that size then?

Hi Rich

Lots of bracing and I can double up on the tubes if needed.

been getting a bit done on the chassis. I'm going to lay my shocks a little further forwards to give more axle clearance.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...f.jpg~original

I'm really happy with the tube bender and notcher that I bought from Affordable benders, really nice bend with no kinks. I made the first bit to go over the transmission and allow the torsion bar inner spline area to be removed.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...h.jpg~original

I made an extra base for the hoop using 50x50 tube, I made it into a U channel and I was having difficulty cutting a hole with the notcher until I welded a length of angle to it

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original


welded the hoop to torsion bar housing and added an extra bit at the base

did the big cut today, no going back now

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...z.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...7.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...w.jpg~original


also did the cut out for the 944 spring plates

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...p.jpg~original

Are you putting torsion bars in again? (not sure what else you are welding back in?)

Hi Wally

m going to use the short 30 mm bars that I had in my old chassis again.

Ok, but why not going coil-over right away when you're doing that much work already? They say coil-over is a big upgrade over torsion bars :)

Hi Wally

With my transmission so far forward the shocks were almost touching the driveshafts, coil overs would be worse.

Ah, I hadn't taken that into consideration... space can indeed be a restriction sometimes. GL with the build!

Thanks Wally, just about to fit G50 in this chassis for the first time

test fit, pretty happy much more clearance now

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original

Hi

Still working on the chassis, looking good for a bit of weight reduction. The motor was just sitting in the stand doing nothing, so I put in some ARP 625+ headstuds, new head gaskets and Tomei valve springs, shooting for early 300 kW @ the wheels. One of the head gaskets was close to blowing so another few dyno pulls or hard events and it would have let go.

Been doing lots of driving with my 180SX so lots of tail out driving, more of which I will have with more power in my bug.

Body work is finished now, the body is in storage as my garage is too small to have both parts of the car there.

Steve

Hi

I've been very busy getting my bug back together, its at the tuners now for a tickle.

I bought a .63 Tial V Band rear housing for my turbo to replace the .82, it was very laggy and wasnt coming until 5000 rpm, I lifted and rotate the turbo. I was lucky a good friend happened to be near ATP in north Cali and picked it up for me.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

I acquired a Subaru Gears engine cradle from Todd, very nicely made

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...i.jpg~original

I welded in some tie down points to my torsion bar housing

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...f.jpg~original

I used 1 3/4 roll cage tube to make new chassis forks and bracing

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...i.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original

A forum member VWCool supplied me with some laser cut flat floors

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...w.jpg~original

bought some heavy duty tie rods from Lanner at Veedub engineering, they are much stronger than the tie rod ends

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

I had a new exhaust made and used a 3 inch Varex muffler http://www.xforce.com.au/products/varex-mufflers

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...y.jpg~original

I've done a mudguard air intake like Jak and Ricola I think it turned out quiet good, the mudguard is painted now but I don't have a picture of it.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...m.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...k.jpg~original

Top view of the motor, the air intake feeds into a BMC Oval Trumpet air filter

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original

My weight saving in the chassis must have worked as the car sits a 25 mm higher on the same spring plate angle

Steve

Great stuff. Not meant as a criticism, but the flat floor pans, won't those be noisy without the factory-like bends? I've always been interested in smoothing out the underside of a bug like you've done though.

The tailpipe out of the stock rear apron looks great!

The new chassis forks and bracing is a work of art!
Very impressive!

Hi

Thanks guys, dont mind my crappy welding.

The car has just had another 98 and E85 flex tune at DVS, it previously made 277 kW on 22 psi, the Garret GTX 30 76 turbo was a bit laggy and didn’t come on until 5,000 rpm so I had to rev it to 8,000 to avoid dropping off boost between gears.

The turbo originally came with.82 Subaru specific rear housing, I’ve now gone to a Tial .63 V band rear housing.

The car now makes 282 kW on 27 psi but it has picked up 60 kW in the midrange so it will be much more drivable, I haven’t weighed the car yet but its sitting about 25 mm higher than before so it has lost some weight with the chassis mods, now I need to do the same thing. The Tomei PON cams are still not making any difference in the tune, the motor actually lost power when they were first fitted.

I’ve heat wrapped the exhaust up pipe and dump and fitted a turbo beanie, I’ve heat wrapped the coolant out pipe it now passes under the intake manifold where turbo intake was previously located, I used to run my intercooler water lines to the front of the car down the middle of the chassis, I’ve now located them under the right running board and the straight section is now made from 19mm aluminium tubing the flexible part is 19 mm fire hose.

I haven't driven it yet as I had a bit of heart issue, no heart attack but after an angiogram I had 3 stents put in.

Steve

my mate Brad did one of his signature screamer pipes off the 45mm Turbosmart Hypergate

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...l.jpg~original

I used an existing larger size up pipe with an extra pipe to lift the and twist the turbo

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...h.jpg~original

V band 3 inch dump

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original

I was hoping for more but I took it up with engine covers so the tuner was worried about getting hit in the head with a car part if he pushed it any further, still more left in the turbo if I need any more but with improved midrange and the weight reduction its should keep me happy for a while.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...k.jpg~original

Interesting!

282 kW is at the wheels I presume? Thats 383 hp at the wheels, which is about 430 crank hp (+12% average for that gearbox i think) at 27 psi. Seems low for that turbo, engine and boost setting..(?)

It also still seems laggy, even without RPM at the x-axis. Do you also have the RPM dynosheet?

Seems another issue causing the laggy-ness I think? Wastegate control? Pre-turbo leak? The latter may also effect the total hp.. and could be detected with a speed sensor, but not many people use those ;-)

Nice Progress Steve..

Good to see you have those stents fitted :goodjob:

Hi

282 kW pretty good for a 2 litre motor. I hurt a piston at an event on the weekend, Im going 2.1 fully forged motor now.

Steve

Ah, 2 litre, that explains a lot. I agree, then the torque plots looks much more logical. Sorry, I had forgotten that.
Sorry to hear about the piston hurt. Fully forged definately seems like the way to go with these hp levels ;)

Hi

OK motor is stripped, burnt piston and a twisted conrod, so stroker crank forged rods and pistons and doweled water jackets. The stroker should be good to bring on the turbo sooner and it will be able to revved higher so I will have a broader powerband, same motor combo is good for 400 kW at the wheels in AWD drive cars.

Steve

Whoa, nice build!

Nice updates! Still on the GRX3076R ?

Thanks Petevw

Still the same GTX3076R turbo but with the .63 rear housing, not long now

There's your limit I think.

Hey Steve, how is your build going?