As requested.

Projector in bowl without shroud

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9.jpg~original


Back of projector / bowl

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1.jpg~original


Comparison to stock H4 bulb

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original


~ 40mm to back of bulb from mounting tab where stock H4 sits. The connector is not much thicker ... so 45mm should have you covered.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4.jpg~original


Projector / Bosch bowl / shroud

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original

Sandeep

Very simple indeed! Thanks for the pics! However, I think an auto leveling system won´t be easy to adapt.Maybe retrofit themselves have a solution.i have found all the components needed for it as a kit from Hella,but adapting the stepper motor won´t be easy since there aren´t any fix points or much room for the bulb to move.That´s what I miss about the states.It´s just so easy - install something and be done with it,no need to have mods go through a tech inspection..

It seems that the bulb manufacturers recognise the need for powerful lighting as Philips are marketting a +100% H4 bulb as a simple direct replacement that would give an equivalent 120/110W headlight. The nearest to that would be the 130/90W (not for road use) competition bulb. Wire the lamps for mains and dip to come on when mains is selected and you can retain your original wire sizes and you could have an equivalent 460W halogen light whilst keeping everything stock and legal - cost about £25. Besides the extra lumens the beam pattern is the most important factor that can utilise all of the light output and good quality lenses/relectors are vital.

Most of the HID projector lights I have driven with give too sharp a cut off so that on dip beam it is either night or day and the visual focus suddenly changes between mains and dip so that IMO it affects proper car control (try riding a bike with your eyes focused on the road about 5 yards ahead to see what I mean). What is needed is a little bleed at the edges so that the focus remains further up the road and the old fashioned external lens lamps create that.

Clive

Quit fooling with lighting or other ancillaries and get the car together! ;-)
Engine assembled yet?

Hi

Phillips have many better bulbs that can be used and still keep the standard wiring etc. http://www.lighting.philips.com.au/v...2_1&id=1053472

Steve

Steve,

Using your link, these are the ones I was thinking of: http://www.lighting.philips.com.au/v...p=car_&vp=more light&va=more light

Clive

Hi Clive

I have something similar in my daily 1303, they are very good and white, and only need standard wiring.

I might also look into getting my low beams to stay on when on high beam, doing this manually with the dipper switch gives a very good light pattern.

Steve

Getting there ! :lmao: A little bit more welding to do and I can start on assembling the engine.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original

Drivers side heater channel fitted, just need to weld it in now. the passengers side should go faster, drivers side came out in 3 rusty peices.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original

G50 and shifter fitted, 100mm drive flanges fitted, shifts amazingly smooth.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...3.jpg~original

7" Touch screen fitted.

The body hasn't been on the pan in 4 years so my motivation is back after seeing these two together again :D

Sandeep

Don't sound so amazed! :lmao: (told you so ;))

Nice work on the sills!; it looks to have been necessary and also looks like you have the same rust problems over there as we have..

The touch screen is freaking amazing! I am not much into gimmicks, but that is VERY cool!
What do you plan on displaying all?

Unfortunately, we have lots of salt on our roads in the winter as well. This car was my first car so I cant get rid of it that easily.

The touch screen can read 30 parameters from the DTA S60 / Innovate instruments that I have and programming the details is straight forward (for me) ;D I've just got to group the similar data together in virtual gauges with each gauge blinking red when a threshhold value has been reached.

If none of the gauges are red, nothing to worry about, but if something turns red, it will catch my eye while driving.

The only other real gauges I will have are a tach and my AEM Tru boost boost controller.

Even the fuel gauge is displayed through the touch screen in %age of fuel remaining :cool:

Sandeep

Awesome! Can't wait to see the final product of your efforts!

Very cool stuff. Touch screen display will be sweet.

Do you have a plan on how you are going to do that left brake master cylinder pushrod? Looks like it will get sandwiched in with the body gasket...

I looked at this years ago and everyone told me I was mad it was not necessary and it was completely OTT...

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...6.jpg~original

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...k.gif~original

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...2.jpg~original

Its still on the back burner - my dad had it in his Passat GL5 for a bit

NICE Sandeep!! I love Gadgets like that! I had basically the same idea but I gave it up.The reasons for me were: during the day when the sun hits the display,you can hardly read anything.In that regard I am a bit spoiled because the screens that aircraft use (at least Airbus) illuminate automatically brighter when the sun hits it, so you can see all the data on the screen.At night a normal screen is quite distracting (to me) because it´s usally a little too bright and if there is movement on the screen away from your immediate view of sight, I tend to always look over to it.Still,I love to see stuff like that and all the tech involved! Looking better everyday Sandeep!