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Is that a new flywheel or an old one? If the shoulder that the seal rests on is at all rough or grooved, it will kill the seal in no time.
Also, I source a genuine VW seal to put on the shelf for next time. The normal aftermarket ones don't last and I'm not a big fan of the silicon type. Bentley manual doesn't give an exact position for the seal but in the past I've gone for slightly under the face of the case. Looks the business by the way. Well done to you!!! |
The flywheel is used, but smooth and no grooves. There was a polish mark right up near the backside that told me the seal wasn't set in enough. I used to have a piece of steel I made up on the lathe for setting the seal, but I never remember I made it when the time comes!
Thanks, I have a few new additions to post up that I've made...just buried under Spring Thaw Classic Car Adventure planning and gear. Will post up as soon as I can. 1050km on the car now...starting to feel good :) -Dave |
Seals can be had from VW dealers directly in the UK - not sure how it is out there, but if you are struggling I'd be happy to procure/post them for you :)
Eagerly awaiting more updates! |
I have used the orange seal with dual seal lips and had the "Dry" seal lip tear loose each time and leak like hell. I always look to make sure they only have 1 seal lip now.
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Well, 300km on the new seal and holding fine (knocks on wood).
Drove the car down to a Vancouver Swap meet this weekend. Before heading down I needed to mount up the club badge onto the car: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7239/6...cb6bfe8b_b.jpg I had planned on just hanging out at the swap for a couple of hours, keeping my wallet firmly in my pocket. Sadly, that didn't last long. Geoff found me a 1302s badge, which I paid way too much (in my mind) for. Hard to negotiate when you so obviously have the car that needs it parked 100ft away! I'm such a cheapskate that $20 for a much needed badge seems like the worst spend I've had on the whole build. Forget the ridiculous spending I did on the wiring harness...this one hurts! haha. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7...847ef534_z.jpg I was picking up a set of 4.5" wheels from Rob, but then one of the guys rolled into the swap with a full set of 5.5" sport rims and tires in his stash. Two of the tires are dated 1980, and while all four have the molding nubs still installed they aren't exactly a set I would trust to drive on! A deal was made, and I soon found myself trying to figure out how to stack 4 rims with tires and 4 bare rims into a car which will has no storage space or room. Out came the passenger seat, in went the gear, and then I layed the passenger seat on top. Thankfully I still have my ratty old seats, so fear of dirt is non-existent! One more tire and wheel combo, and two rims are still go be loaded in: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7...b7d97383_z.jpg I've managed to find time to mount up the rally intercom, into the only spot available in the car. Without the belts on I can easily reach the volume knob, but once strapped in the location is useless. Sort of a pain, but there is no room on the trans tunnel which is reachable, and I'd have to extend the wires by quite a bit to mount it under the dashboard. This will just have to do. I trimmed out the wire length and resoldered on the ends for a clean installation. Also wired in an output line for interior video, and and input line for the iPod. When cruising and not racing I can listen to tunes (mono, in one ear only), or while shooting video the camera gets a feed of what's being spoken between the two seats. (hopefully not "OH &^$%!!!!!" :P ) Last thing to do for the intercom system is repair/replace my headsets. The Peltor intercom requires dynamic microphones, and I have passive ones currently. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7125/7...594fdfcd_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/7...73624faa_z.jpg I keep tossing the GoPro in my laptop back to shoot some video, and then promptly forget that I have it until I'm down the road strapped in and unable to move. Speaking of which, I also welded in anti-submarine belt mounts this weekend. There was much debate over whether I should put my mounts to the floor or mounts to the seat mounts. The proper way to do it is with plates welded to the floor, and a bolt going through the floor and plate. But that assumes that you also have your seats properly mounted to the cage / floor. I've got my seats mounted to factory sliders...so, it's a bit of a grey area. Technically if the seat breaks free the belts should hold me and the seat in place. Eventually I decided that I'm in a '71 Volkswagen Beetle with just a 4pt roll bar. If I've managed to hit something hard enough that my seat mounts have broken free, I'm in a whole world-of-hurt that makes the anti-submarine strap mounting far less of a concern. With that, a 1" seamless tube was welded across the bottom of the seat mounts and the straps are now mounted to that. Even though the tires are old, and likely unsafe, I couldn't resist mounting up the wide sport rims to check out the look. They've got 205/70/15's on the back and 165/15s on the front. It's a terrible combo that rakes the front end of the car and just looks...wrong. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/6...a1e2aa34_b.jpg So now I'm in tire juggling mode between now and my Spring Thaw departure on Thursday. The 165's I had on 4" wide hub-cap rims are being mounted to the 4.5" sport-style rims today. They'll go onto the car tomorrow morning, and should have that "narrow period" look that match the rest of the car. The wide sport rims will have the 80's cal-look tire set removed and my 205/60/15 track tires will be mounted. Not 100% sure these are going to fit on the front of the car, but tomorrow night late I'll mount them up to see. They'll totally ruin the period look of the car, and it's probably far too sky-high for wide track meats (no adjustable suspension on the front yet)...but they will be safer and more fun for 1200km of pavement rally/touring. If I'm not sold on the look, the narrow sport-style wheels will get coat of poor-mans-chrome (silver spray paint) and get remounted on Thursday morning. Sleep, who needs sleep? -Dave |
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The 1302S badge looks to be in great shape. I would call that a good find. I love a good swap meet.
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Wow,
What a few weeks it has been. I'm sorry I haven't been updating the thread as frequently, but the moment the bug was "ready" I had to go into emergency car-prep and organizer mode for our Annual "Hagerty Spring Thaw Classic Car Adventure". This year Warwick, my business partner, and I were pushing the limits a little too closely. First up was the Bug, a whole brand new build which required three unplanned motor pulls and the unplanned tear down to replace the bearings. That set me back by at least a week, which meant helping Warwick out was becoming a problem. On Warwick's side we had his '66 Alfa Romeo Duetto which needed rear brake work. The left rear caliper was locking up so I tore it off and rebuilt it. Oddly enough the same problem continued. Alfas are famous for needing a flex line replaced to solve rear axle lock up, but the strange part was it was only the left side that was a problem. Never-the-less, the car was put up on axle stands again so I could do the rear flex line. Following that the brakes released properly (odd) but it had to come in a third time for a full brake bleed. I guess once we free'd up the rear the air in the front became apparent! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/7...8b1f558b_c.jpg With the Alfa ready to go, we focused on Warwick's '66 Austin Mini. With just three days to go before our event it still had no interior, a new motor puking oil, no brakes, no doors, no hood and no engine lid. First up was fixing the motor. When the engine was built one of the oil-galley plugs was pulled to clean out the block from any machining. The galley was threaded and a bolt installed with gasket and sealant. Unfortunately the 75psi of break-in oil pressure was pushing oil past the threads at an alarming rate. Different sealants were tried, and then finally as a last-ditch effort before pulling the motor I pulled out the tubes of Permatex Cold Weld (JB-Weld's competitor). I hate to use cold-weld on a new motor, but with the event fast approaching we were running out of time. 12 hours later, Warwick and I both crossed our fingers as he hit the starter. Sweet! No oil leak! I then made him a temporary gauge holder to house an oil pressure gauge, Audi Voltmeter and coolant temperature gauge. A spare Stewart Warner tach was popped onto the dash so he could monitor his break-in and ensure he was running at different RPMs on the way to the start. Warwick was working on the car 18 hours a day. His buddy Martin was putting in daytime hours and I was working evenings. All along the two of us were pausing to do last-minute event items such as hotel changes, meal confirmations, cancellations and wait-list entries. It was a crazy blur! At some point I managed to have my buddy Gord swap the 165-series tires from my hubcap style rims over to the late-model super rims. Still 4.5" wide, but more in the style I prefer. There were plans to refinish them before the Spring Thaw event, but those were quickly shelved with all the other crazyness going on. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/6...a1498cb4_z.jpg Thursday afternoon (April 26th) came, and while I worked on final changes with our entrants Warwick hit the road in the Mini to break it in on the way to our start location. He made it about 40min down the highway before calling me to say the car had died. Diagnosis procedures were relayed over the phone and via text as I loaded the car and raced down to help him out. In the rush to leave I managed to completely forget any tools, and thus planned to do the 1200km driving adventure with no jack, no wheel wrench, and no tools or spares! I did have a clutch cable, but that was going to be pretty useless without any way to install it :) By the time I had arrived Warwick had diagnosed the problem as the coil, and soon after a fellow Mini buddy dropped by with a spare. Off we went to prep the start! Well, actually I went to the hotel and started drinking beer with some of our Entrants while Warwick hit a buddies shop for a late night alignment, fuel pump repair and the manufacture of rear wheel spacers to stop the rubbing. Nothing like finishing the car at 11:30pm the night before! http://www.classiccaradventures.com/...12/04/top1.jpg With the morning came 73 classic cars, 148 people and the start of what has turned into the fall event of the Pacific Northwest. Our Fourth Annual Spring Thaw started in Hope BC, travelled to Sun Peaks on night one, from Sun Peaks to Penticton BC on night two and then back to Hope for the finish. The event attracts everything from cars you wonder if they'll make it, all the way to very expensive and rare european machinery. Amazingly all entered vehicles managed to make it to the first night's hotel stop...which is a first for the event. The bug was running flawlessly, though I will admit to driving it much easier then I have in previous years. I decided that I really didn't want to be the "Hard Luck Award" winner, which is given to the team which has a catastrophic failure during the event. Much of the first day was spent playing on the roads with a friend's 356. Dave recently installed a new motor and was also "being easy" on the car with a self-imposed 4500rpm rev limit. By the end of the day it was clear both of us had to flip our mirrors if we were the one leading...the car in the back was clearly pushing the rev limits higher and higher! My co-driver had bailed for the Thaw with relatively short notice, and with the craziness of the weeks before I never got around to inviting a new one. So, Ernie jumped in the right seat to take care of map duties for the weekend. He was pretty quiet the whole time, but I have to say he was about as accurate and useful with the directions as my regular co-driver! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/6...d531cb07_z.jpg Day two was a day of swapping cars between myself and Duncan's TR7. I've always wanted one, as dad had a project TR7 when I was a kid, but have never had the opportunity to drive one. At first I realized you should never drive the cars you dream about...coming from the bug the TR felt like it was floating all over the road...but soon settled into reviewing the car on it's own, instead of comparing it, and came to enjoy it quite a bit! Duncan and I also worked on tuning the dampening for the rear suspension on the beetle. Having a second set of eyes to see what the car was doing and comparing it to what I was feeling inside was a huge help. We've dialed out much of the widowmaker handling and the car is becoming quite predictable under throttle and when sliding. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8155/7...90c6b631_z.jpg Day two also saw our first catastrophic failures. Warwick's Alfa blew out it's centre driveshaft bearing while his mom was driving, and was the only fully-terminal issue for the whole event. The car was towed to a local town, where one of our entrants offered the use of their enclosed garage for as long as required. Tucked away safely, Sue and Lorrie began jumping into the back seats of whatever classic cars they could. On the Spring Thaw, no one is left behind! Gerry Frose, who painted my bug, also had a big failure on day two. His 1980 Rabbit decided that the inner CV balls would look far better bouncing down the highway as opposed to inside the joint where they could be useful. Parts and tools were acquired from 2 hours away, and while rather sunburned, they managed to get it together and even beat me to the hotel (via a shortcut) for night #2. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7258/7...85d9f320_z.jpg Day three for me was rather short. Someone on the organizing team had to skip ahead to greet guests at the finish, and since I haven't done it on the other three years it was my turn! I left 15-30min before the first cars were out, but that didn't keep me from watching my rear view mirror the entire time on the first road. I always warn guests on the day three driver's meeting that the brake pedal is going to be a little longer today, and my car was no exception. Going deep into the corners had double meaning on this run! Ultimately, however, the car performed flawlessly and it was a short while later that my co-driver and I were able to enjoy our first meal of the weekend. It didn't last long though, like all my other meals on the weekend it was quickly interrupted by organizing duties. Cold food taken in bites over a period of hours...that's the eating habits of an organizer! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/6...5fb5afd0_z.jpg Following the Thaw the week has been a whirlwind. I wrote down a 34-point list of things I needed to prep by Friday night. Connor spent much of the week crossing the items off the list with me each evening...and the local Rally Shop, Rocket Rally, filled in the blanks during the day for me. I think we un-mounted and mounted the equivalent of 20 tires over a three day period! Some of the major highlights of the week: Rally Tire rims painted, Pirelli tires mounted. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8154/7...b1a927a8_z.jpg Hand Brake lever handle completed by my buddy Scott. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/7...6b9e45dc_z.jpg Spare tire strap was sewn, and finally installed. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7109/7...fbd9cb93_c.jpg I fixed the stripe on the engine lid. It took 4 tries to lay without bubbles or tears...but then promptly split the next morning! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/6...b7fd8b1b_z.jpg And the big one was seats and belts. I needed a non-ratty set for the weekend, and time was running short to work out some options. I ended up calling another ralliest in town, Brandon, and asked to borrow his seats and belts. Took two nights to modify my seat mounts to fit the wider seats...but the interior is looking far better. Sorry the photo is so dark, meant to take another in the morning and forgot. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8004/7...4a542795_c.jpg With that, I packed the car and prepared myself for waking up at 3am... |
My alarm went off at 3:00am this morning. It took until 3:30 before I finally shut snooze off for good, and by 4:00 I was on the highway south of my hometown. Crossing the US border was shockingly easy this time around. The guard didn't even open my passport, simply asking "do you race this thing!?!" I replied with a "not yet, but after the photos are done I will be." She didn't even ask me where I was going, or for how long, just a "have fun" and I was in the U.S. The drive down was through the rain, and when I arrived in Lynnwood it was off to find a do-it-yourself coin wash to clean the car for the second time in 13 hours.
Now, I suppose I should pause for a moment to explain that "washing the car" to me usually means some dish soap, a sponge and the hose...and done as quickly as possible. About a year ago I switched to proper car washing soap, only because it was on sale, but drying to me has always been either air-dry or with a beach towel. Quite frankly I've never owned a vehicle with a finish nice enough to care. But here I was, bringing my car to Northwest Auto Salon, a buddy Blake's detailing shop. NWAS is regularly voted Washington's top detailing shop, and every time I'm there its jammed with Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Porsches and Classics. Blake's shop, especially the back storage shops, and his neighbour Cat Exotics are the places to be to find the weird, rare and wonderful. LM002? Two colors to choose from. Diablo? pick your model, flavour and color...they are all here. Countach? Do you prefer early no-wings, or late crazy 80's style? It doesn't really matter, as they are all represented in multiple choices. That's just the Lambo selection! Anyways, you can imagine that bringing the lowly beetle is a bit humbling. Not to mention that any vehicle I've ever driven there has been embarrassing...at least on Blake's scale. Now, he did start off with cheap Audi 4000's and rust bucket Audi-90's, so he's paid his dues. But take his Riviera for instance, you can't find a flaw on the entire car...and trust me, I tried! http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5076/7...e5d4e964_z.jpg Before Blake arrived I washed the car, polished the bumpers and tail pipes, cleaned the wheel-wells and swapped the street tires over for the rally tires. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5114/7...c0cd9599_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/7...8105c215_b.jpg When Blake did arrive, he was quite impressed with the build...which, for me, is like getting approval from someone like Jay Leno. To have Blake, who deals with insane cars on a daily basis, check the car out and show genuine enthusiasm was pretty rad. My wash job was even determined to be acceptable, though apparently the Chamois I used is no longer "in style" and I need to switch to microfibre cloths for drying. My windows, however, were a complete and utter failure. I own seven different metric wrench sets, but seem to think that blue-shop-towels are all you need for detailing a car. Blake whipped me through window-detailing 101 and taught me the techniques for crystal clear windows, right to the edge of the rubber. I had no idea that one would need three cloths, special steel wool and the eyes of a hawk to do the job right...but after seeing the finished product I'm totally sold. There was no time to move onto other lessons, so Blake matte-waxed the hood and engine lid to remove water spots, and I vacuumed out the inside of the car. Another friend, Andrew Holliday, showed up...and the car was rolled back into Northwest Auto Salon's photo studio. Blake gave the car one final check under the lights... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/7...e289e81b_c.jpg ...the curtains were closed and Andrew went to work. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8001/7...f5aecf5f_c.jpg The rest of today's story will need to be told at a later date, but the important part for now is that "the studio shots" have been done. I no longer need to worry about stone chips, thus the gravel tires will be used this week! Not quite sure where yet, but I am definitely getting out for some testing :-) For now, however, I'm completely bagged. 17 hours after I left this morning, I am back home. Almost fell asleep on the highway, had to pull off and sleep at a Starbucks for an hour. Following the nap I had a double shot of Espresso followed by a double-shot Mocha while driving. Needless to say, it's sleepy time. -Dave |
Sounds like a very cool weekend for you.
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Very very nice! It sounds like you had a great time! Thanks for sharing.
Post the photos here when they are done, if you are allowed. |
Sweet Can't wait to see the Photos....
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Thanks Guys!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8016/7...f325035a_z.jpg I'm super stoked and happy with it so far. Having the shots done this weekend by Andrew means that I've now got free reign to play with the car. Stone chips? Not a big deal now! The car does handle significantly differently from the last bug, so it's going to take some testing before I'm comfortable sliding it on Gravel. Sunday I swapped the seats back to my own, and prepped it for some gravel playing on Monday eve. A last minute group in whistler meant switching it back to street tires, and a day on the mountains until 11pm. Sigh. Probably won't get out on the gravel tires until Sunday :( On the plus side, however, I am allowed to post this teaser shot! http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7...ff99e746_o.jpg -Dave |
Hi
That looks fantastic. I was watching a German motoring TV show the other night and it had a bit about VW race & rally cars, it had Salzburg 1303 in the show. I've saved the show to disk, I will get it chopped down on email it you if your interested. Steve |
You did an amazing job with that car and I can only hope it drives as good as it looks. The teaser pic looks awesome and I can't wait to see more. Now we need some gopro footage!
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Dave, I've posted a link to your thread in the Volkszone rally beetle thread. Sure it'll generate some interest on there :)
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Steve - I can provide you with a YouSendit or DropBox account which would allow you to upload and send large files to me. If that works for you let me know and I'll email details over to you. Would love to see the footage for sure!
I keep promising GoPro footage...but everything I've shot so far seems so lame and boring. Maybe I'll post a couple of quick clips today so you can see that it actually runs, and how freaking loud the transmission bearing noise is! Definitely haven't shot any gravel yet. The car handles so differently from my other vehicles I need to get some time behind the wheel before I'm comfortable playing with it. Can't post vids of me driving like a rookie now, can I? haha. I will need to keep an eye on that Volkszone thread...I'm curious to see what people think. I mean, at the end of the day I built it for me. But the European reaction to the build is of big interest to me, simply because here in North America I've built a car so outside the box that most people don't know what they're looking at until I explain it to them. Europe's Rally connection is much stronger, so its a bit better of a fit over there! -Dave |
Dave, it might be useful for you (articles and the whole website):
http://www.vw1302.de/start/suchen/suchen.html http://www.vw1302.de/start/suchen/suchen.html http://www.vw1302.de/start/suchen/suchen.html Google translator is your friend :D |
Ooh, I will take a look at that for sure!
So a project is never finished...I haven't been happy with the power level of the car, especially when accelerating from a standstill. The car is just slower then my white '69 was, both in acceleration and top speed. I attributed the top speed both to the massive ride-height and it's resulting instability with crosswinds. (aka part car, part my fear level)...but the acceleration just doesn't make sense. I finally had a chance to look at it last night and discovered a simple issue which is possibly causing the problem. A key step when setting up new carbs/engine? Yeah, that would be determining if you can get full throttle with your pedal. Adjusted now to get to about 80% of the stops on the carbs, will need some reengineering to figure out how to get the last 20%, but I'll try it today on gravel and see how it is. The other item I'm not fully sold on is the shifting. I tossed this in another thread, and it originally comes from a PM I wrote, but without having to retype it, I think it makes sense: I'm using a stock bug shifter with EMPI aluminum short shift kit and then a custom carbon knob and custom carbon tube over the stock shift shaft. If I pull the knob and carbon tube off, it's 100% stock VW Beetle...even the lock out plate. I did double up the lockout springs (using two stock ones), and the shift rod is a cut-and-weld mix of stock beetle, steel tubing and Porsche shift rod. I have a shorter-then-stock-beetle throw going forwards and backwards, but what feels like "stock" throw going side to side. It's easy to figure out where all the gears are and works quite well...most of the time. The problem is the Z-bend in the shift rod. This makes the side-to-side action somewhat vague at times, and appears to bind occasionally. A quick wiggle of the shifter in neutral sorts everything out and the gears become easy to find again, but this doesn't help much if you're on a race track! I believe I have some more R&D to do before I'm 100% happy. My reverse (and 1st) lockout works well, but I need to build a single-spring that is heavier weight. The two springs occasionally bind and don't allow the shifter to snap up, thus the lockout "sticks on". If you're not careful it's easy to select reverse instead of second. I have learned that if I go into first, and the shifter snaps-up immediately, everything will be okay. If I don't hear the snap, I have to be super careful. On the catching reverse front, instead of second, even when the shifter snaps up it's possible to 'rub' reverse on your way into second. I had a chance to talk to a couple of 901-Equipped Porsche owners, and the problem is found in those cars too. Bottom line is that I have fully sorted out perfect shifting yet...I'm currently considering going back to the stock beetle shifter shaft (small diameter) and adding a "gate plate" and tower above the transmission tunnel. Imagine a Ferrari shift-gate-plate, but mounted on a 4-post tower. That should eliminate miss-shifts if it were precisely machined. Possibly ugly, but I will try and find the photo of a factory Audi rally car that used one. The other option is to go with two universal joints in the Z-bend so that when I move the shifter left and right the shaft rotates at the transmission as it should. Currently it rotates and "swings" due to the hard Z-bend. Going universals, however, would require between 2 and 4 mounts welded into the trans tunnel which could be a challenge with the body on. So shifting is another item I'll be looking into after I get back from two-weeks away. -Dave |
Maybe this would work for you.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...1.jpg~original |
Considered it, but the issue of vague shifting is not in the shifter, but rather the shift rod that runs fore-aft in the transmission tunnel. I've either got to gate the shifter, or rework the shift-rod.
-Dave |
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...pikes-pe-6.jpg
Audi S1 E2 gated shifter mod. This, as far as I know, isn't Audi factory but rather done by the current owner of the car. -Dave |
The bug@5speed shifter has an integrated shift rod hanger that drops the shift rod down to the bottom of the tunnel, in-line with the 901 transmission. I recently converted from an custom (aircooled.net article) 901 installation, and was able to use a straight universal shift rod (buggy) from the shifter to the transmission, with a welded 901 shift rod end. Haven't completed the car yet, but the shifting seems much better already.
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http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8021/7...38e9dd2d_b.jpg
Well, finally got the chance to try out the tires and suspension setup on gravel. Rear suspension is pretty good, though I will probably swap out to a progressive spring as I've been thinking. Front suspension on the other hand could be a little stiffer. I'm loving the weight transfer under braking, but needs to be just a hair stiffer to match the front. The gravel tires, however, are awesome! To date I've always bought used tires for RallyX, and I can totally understand the difference between a fresh set and one that has been used for a few stages. The fresh blocks are square, and cut into the gravel like a track tire sticks to tarmac. Corners where I've nailed good sliding shots on a used set of tires were simply a matter of carving around the turn like it was tarmac. Gotta love when the performance of something is so good, it becomes boring! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7090/7...deae4008_b.jpg I did toss the GoPro into the car, but I have to be honest and say the videos are too boring to watch. While doing some testing on the forest roads I have closest to the house, the tires don't even slide around corners until you're into the triple digits. Once you do get them sliding it's not even something you could pickup on a video. I'm going to need to find some tighter corners that require pitching the car in order to make a video that's interesting! One thing is for sure though, these tires are going to take their toll on the paintwork. The light specs you can sort-of see on the fender are stone chips. That's 30km of gravel running...yikes. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7072/7...2aaa0842_b.jpg -Dave |
LOOKS GREAT ALL DIRTY....
would Still love to See some Video though, and I'm Sure other would too. ;) Chris. |
Hi Dave, good looking motor!
I have the same shifter problem as you, nudging reverse instead of second. I initially thought it was the reverse stop plate but I have noticed that it occurs most on power downshifts - never on upshifts. I think its to do with the 'box moving around due to torque reation and the bumps. My shift rod is in perfect condition i.e all the bushes are new and the rear is a polybush in the orginal VW cage that takes out any slop. When I have the engine out I will renew the gearbox mounts and add a 5-bar KC brace to stop the frame horns flexing. |
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I've cut the video file down too either 211,xxx KB or 796,xxx KB, what would you prefer? Cheers Steve |
I'll take the large one. Will email you a dropbox link shortly.
THANKS!! -Dave |
Hi Dave
I just put the large one in the drop box, let me know how it goes. The large file didn't play as well on my computer but my computer is almost as old as my bug, the smaller file played better. Steve |
Well, tis been a while. Worked on a few minor details over the weekend to try and adjust some issues. First up was grounding each of the temp senders to their own ground, I was getting some flaky readings or the feed-sensor dropping out, and the individual grounds seem to have solved that problem. The feed ground is a little messy, but I'll get in there again next weekend to make sure it's shrink-wrapped and permanent now that I've confirmed it's working.
My F150 was stolen, and recovered. But in the process of the body shop replacing all the locks and repairing the doors, they messed up the interior light. Battery was discharged and charged enough over the course of the week that it was 100% dead. Wouldn't even hold a charge for an hour. As I'm not sure if the problem is 100% solved, I stole the deep-cycle optima from the Bug since they can be discharged flat a number of times without damage. I tossed in a Honda S2000 battery I have kicking around, and Ziptied it in for emergency use :P I figured I would get around to swapping it back soon, but then realized a RallyX is next weekend and I was more likely to show up at tech and then remember I haven't swapped the batteries! A metal-on-metal mount was made for the Honda battery. It's ugly, but will pass tech! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/7...abee45b4_z.jpg I've also been working on the cooling. The NACA duct flows too much air past the oil cooler, and running on the highway I can't actually get it up to 200deg running temperature. The thermostat I'm using to bypass the cooler still lets a small amount of oil pass through, and this is clearly a problem. A couple of tests with cardboard (blocking the duct) allows the car to come up to temperature...so a solution needs to be found! I honestly don't understand the aerodynamics of the duct well enough, but I know I need to keep the boundary layer intact as much as possible past the duct. This piece of lexan seems to be doing the job so far, might need to make it a little larger and/or adjust the shape. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7095/7...8c05d002_b.jpg Once I've got the shape/setup figured out I'll then swap the bolts out for Dzus 1500 fasteners. They will allow me to pull the panel at any point when the heat is getting to high for the fan to control. (Hot day at the track perhaps?). http://britishracecar.com/KeithBurne...MGBGTV8-FD.jpg I was up doing some gravel testing for the panel (high revs, long stints), which also highlighted another issue I need to deal with. The oil-level in the tank is quite sensitive, and it seems when I have it too high it will burp out of the dipstick tube under high-heat/revs! Will need to o-ring or otherwise seal the dipstick tube. Tough to see the top of the tank is all coated in oil. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7227/7...ba49bf4e_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7216/7...4661bfb0_z.jpg ...and, speaking of testing. Here's some proof that the car does indeed move under it's own power. I goofed on the front-mounted cam, and wasn't going to post a vid. But hey, if I keep waiting until I have a perfect one I will never post anything! :P http://youtu.be/k7yPrwBifGw -Dave |
video looks great and good to see a bug being used. one bit of advice i learnt the hard way, dont have your thumbs inside the steering wheel. hit a rut or a rock and the wheel snatches, it will beat your thumbs hard.
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Yup, bad habit indeed. When I was 18ish and starting to rally/rallyx, I had a problem with "happy hands" and too much steering input. To finally beat the problem I just had to focus on keeping the left hand locked to the wheel. I hook thumbs because of it, and just can't break the habit on gravel. I can do it on tarmac, but not gravel :P
I've broken both thumbs and scaphoid enough riding bikes to realize it sucks...but some habits die hard! -Dave |
Do you run the oil cooler and thermostat in the high pressure line to the block or the return line back to the tank (low pressure).
Oil thermostats are not always designed to handle pressure as they are supposed to be fitted in the return line of a dry sump system. The 911 works in that way I think. |
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-Dave |
Well,
Started cracking down on the various things I need to address before rallyXing the car on the 24th. First up was swapping the Oil pressure gauge with the Voltmeter. Let this be a lesson to everyone, before installing everything else in front of the dash (wipers, airbox, etc.)...put the steering wheel in and make sure you can see everything! Now with them swapped I can monitor the oil pressure without the need to look, and I can see just enough of the voltmeter needle to know if it's charging or not. With that done, i decided to investigate why Fuel Pump #2 wasn't working. It hasn't worked since the first day I put a battery to the car. I recall testing the relay and all the wiring I could reach, and determining at some point that it had to be the wiring right up at the switch. Since the dash was apart I pulled it all out, and found the switch and wiring to be fine. Hmmmm. Testing all down the line I eventually discovered I bought a $30 dead fuel pump relay. Hmph. Tossed a regular relay in for now (which doesn't have the tach-input feature) and Fuel pump two was working properly. Sweet. Stuffed everything back in the dash, put the airbox back in, did a few other things and triple checked it before leaving the garage. Fuel pump two not working. Hmph. Guess I'll be going back to deal with that tomorrow night :P I decided since I'll be working on it tomorrow that I might as well drive my F150 for a day, and put the bug up on Axle stands. It will give me a good chance to look everything over after playing the gravel for over an hour on the weekend. Good thing I did! http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7...b62a77bc_b.jpg My first thought was that I must have blown a Motorsport CV boot. But upon closer examination it would seem that my catch can drain came loose and the oil was being picked up by the airstream from the tire. The drain is right against the inside of the fender wall, and will need to be changed. The oil tank was slightly overfull before I hit the gravel, and I knew the catch cans were going to need draining...but I guess the bug decided to drain them a little earlier then me. Unfortunately it's all over the brake caliper: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7244/7...c626fa86_c.jpg And the inboard brake pad is wasted. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/7...bba9b218_c.jpg I've got the brakes and rotor cleaned up, but will need to check to see if I have any rear pads for the car. I know I have spare fronts, but not sure about rears. ...on the plus side, at least I have something to do?! -Dave |
Well, AVR has brake pads in stock...but I really don't want to drive down just for a set of brake pads. Especially since that means I would have to drive my Ford. Ugh.
So, what I did next comes from the "not recommended" and "historical" section of your library. Back in the earlier days of motoring, when brake linings were riveted to the shoes and a pain to replace, it was accepted practice to clean a pair of oil-soaked brake shoes. The problem being that brake linings are porous, so simply wiping them off isn't enough. First step is to clean them with brake clean, to get the major surface gunk off. Then, using white-gas (called Naptha or camping fuel in Canada) you clean the pads a second time. Once that's done the pads will look new, with some light oil staining. Now the fun begins. Pour some white gas on the pad, wait about 5 min for some of it to soak into the pad...light it up and stand clear! http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8166/7...a0e60f3f_c.jpg As the white gas burns, it draws the oil out of the pad like a candle wick. Repeat the soak/burn step about 4 more times. This next photo was after the second burn. You can see the pad is clearing up, and also that it had cracked during the burn. Oh, you thought this method was foolproof? lol. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5338/7...e39d3587_c.jpg Regardless...what I have is set of pads which are usable for the couple of days until my new set arrives. uh, not recommended as a permanent solution...but does work for a roadside fix! -Dave |
The rear calipers look to be the standard rear disc kit calipers. If so they are from a 90's Ford Tarus and the pads should be easy to find.
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-Dave |
Dave,
This is a fantastic build an is a credit to you! I'm looking forward to seeing some video of her being used in anger! Diarmuid |
Thank you! If it would stop raining around here, I'd film more :P
--------- I'm getting closer to sorting out a solution for the temperature issue. Cutting off a portion of the forced-airflow through the duct has helped quite a bit. Here are the three sensor readings after 45min at 120kph: (Engine at front pressure plug, Bottom of tank, , Feed into engine) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7100/7...acef334c06.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5036/7...7daaef22d9.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7...cbd96074cf.jpg All sensors the same brand, but I on the next oil-change I think I'm going to need to pull them and confirm they all read exactly the same at 100deg C. The engine temp reading lower then the feed could be a product of the location, the case temp or the sensor. At this stage I'm most interested in the feed temperature, and so it would seem that I have a bit of trimming to do on my cover plate. I should also order in some of those Dzus fasteners pretty quickly. -Dave |
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