home made parts
What parts have people made for the GL Bug that either just don't exsist or are too expensive to buy ?
thinking of making some rose jointed coilover conversion spring plates... like remmelle, la performance or eagle performance. chris |
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I have already made this parts. do you want the cad drawings? Edit: I also made moulds for the air intakes on the C-pilars on my car. And the air intake i front apron and the hood...! side view mirrors with LED lights and more. |
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things like these
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...n.jpg~original they stop the lateral movements of spring plates whilst not having tporsion bars, but still retain the twisting and up/down movement needed for the suspension. Turbo Haraune2 - did this prove a cost effective way of doing it, getting them laser cut etc as a one off ? chris |
Mine are made of aluminium with stainless steel plate against A-arm.
Much more complex design. Those things you show there is going to break or bend under extra power from big engine. Ok for a sunday driver thoug. Cost efficent? No not if you count your work hours. but if you have acces to milling machine and lots of spare time, yes it is. Mine look like this: http://v-dubs.no/haraune/album12/photos/photo_15.html |
where would they bend and break ? at the rose joint bolt possibaly ?
chris |
Most likely the fastening of the bolt would rip of. or the bolt trough the uniball breaks. The bolt holding the uniball needs to be supported on both sides.
I have already bendt one turnbuckle assy due to overload, so i changed to harder material in the treaded part. |
turnbuckle ? the threaded part in between the torsion housing plate and the trailing arm plate which defines the toe-in / out ?
also in your opinion would 3mm mild steel be strong enough for the laser cut items ? chris |
Yes the threaded part bendt. it was made of 304 steel i think, but i changed to 316 ss.
3mm is not enough.. at least use stainless steel. and make a sandwich type construction. with spacers between plates with same size as the uniball. Quote:
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what would be the min thickness of steel for the job ?
i thought that stainless was more britle and mild steel ? whats the threaded part called ? chris sorry for all the questions |
Depending of your setup, engine brakes suspension.
At least use 5mm good quality steel. Stainless steel is more soft and would stretch more before it cracks.so i prefer that. then you can make it thinner too. Hardened steel is the more brittle one. like cast steel. dont know what you call the threaded part,but i made it myself. linx threads in one end |
engine subaru wrx 270bhp ish
brakes front tarox 6 pot, rear porsche 993 brembo's suspension rear pro-tech coilovers (400lb springs) cheers for all your help c how i get on chris |
Hi
I cant tell by the pictures shown, but it looks like they only rely on the 4 bolts to secure it to the torsion bar housing. They need a boss so that the load is transferred to the torsion housing and not just the 4 bolts. Steve |
I have the Eagle Performance part, and it spigots into the torsion bar tube. The idea is to take the load on the torsion tube, but the fit in my 40 year old corroded tube is not so great, and I question on how well this will work.
Current thought is to attach with grade 12.9 Allen bolts and TIG to the torsion casting. The thread engagement on the heim end joint is about 25mm. A bit more thread would be nice. I got straight plates for a 944 and not a Beetle with offset plates as shown in the pic. I think he was confused by my 944 arms so be very careful when ordering. The plates are now in Thailand and the freight to bring in offset plates is more than the part. All I can do is use a spacer or get new plates made here |
Turbo Haraune2 - What trailing were they designed for ? steels or alloy ?
CAD drawings, what did you want for them ? chris |
Mbt
MBT makes one also, but pricing is through the roof:eek:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...9.gif~original http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...8.gif~original |
I dont know what to charge for the drawings,or my legal rights if somebody starts producing my parts and selling them.
For private use its no problem to give a copy for free. but if someone then starts producing them? :angry: |
i'd only be interested in doing a one-off production of it for my own use, so its easier to adjust the toe angles and cheaper than off the peg ones (hopefully)
chris |
No longer
Hi, sorry for budding in, but I don't need a file. I just need one for a type 2 or type 1. I plan on graphing a type 2 rear suspension for an automatic to my 1303, so thus the need for a possible type 2 one. You said you did the work in class, how about a group buy and you allowing one person do the project with your premission?
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[QUOTE=effvee;62360]Hi, sorry for budding in, but I don't need a file. I just need one for a type 2 or type 1. I plan on graphing a type 2 rear suspension for an automatic to my 1303, so thus the need for a possible type 2 . You said you did the work in class, how about a group buy and you allowing one person do the project with your premission?
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I could like a project where a "limited edition" of parts is made up for sale.
But the goal had to be that it was a reasonable prised part where only costs for producing and shipping the parts where charged. And for cost reasons it probably had to be made in china, to specs and drawings from a project group. Personally i would only contribute with drawings and specs for material. and my only charge in a project like this is a kit for free. It should be possible to make a kit for around 100$ in a low cost country. i'm in it for the entusiasts only! |
Turbo Haraune2 : Hi, if you decide to release your cad drawings for a one off production with a bit of mods for alloy arms, my email address
chrisbro77@hotmail.com.... Only way to do it is to try and copyright them and have a clause can be produced but only by say so from yourself... chris Can i ask did you have the idea of the whale tail from the very start ? |
Im also installing the alu arms this winter so i wil see what mods needed to fit.
Im sure we can make a deal about the drawings... but i want to fine tune them first. The whale tail was there from the start.. but this winter it has to go, in favor of a much bigger intercooler and alu ving from bigwig. Quote:
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As far as i know the spring plates on the alloy arms bolt the opposite side of the trailing arm to the steel ones.....
also the bolt pattern is different, so it may just be a case of flipping the bolting plate to the other side of the arm.... dont know just a thought cheers chris |
Just made this. It's a throttle pedal, 1/8" aluminum plate, bent at the black lines. I have the full size image if anyone wants to make one. Just print it out and use it for a template. I found the bushings and the spring ball pin at a local hardware store. The picture could be cleaned up by pulling it into Paint and straightening out the lines and corners, I did this by hand. The quick pull pin makes playing around with the adjustments easy. I will make a sliding lower plate later to line things up exactly where I want them for heal and toe shifting.
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/394410.jpg http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/394534.jpg http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/394535.jpg http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/394536.jpg http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/394538.jpg Jason |
cad file
could i get a copy of the file ?
feralbugs@hotmail.com |
Jason
Could you please send me a copy of your throttle pedal design rgstraghan@yahoo.ca I live in Thailand and machine work is very cheap here. While perhaps not the cheapest in Thailand, I know an American with a CNC machine shop about 50 km form here. China might be marginally cheaper, however there is the IP question, and margin for the middleman. If there is group interest in producing a small run of parts, I am willing to coordinate it. I am retired and do not need to make my living on things like this and will do it simply for the benefit of the group at cost. Robert |
I'll get the file to you as soon as my other computer is back up, I'm hoping I won't be losing it!!! It's not a CAD file, just a 1:1 scan.
Here it is in place: http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399344.jpg http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399345.jpg Jason |
mmmmm....nice pedals....I envy you!
My size 14 shoe hates my pedals! |
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Oh, man!!! I can't imagine!!! I only wear 11 and I had to cut off the edge of the brake pedal just to clear MY shoes!! Jason |
What kind of wilwood setup is that? I have thought of going to a different pedal design but havent really looked into it yet!
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This is a scan of the printout of the original scan of the part. Unfortunately, the original scan was lost when the computer crashed, but at least I had made one printout. It should be close to 1:1, but if it needs to be sized, keep the aspect ratio and make the width of bottom part of the pedal 4". Throttle Pedal |
Thanks for the scan volkdent.
I cut this out in card board and overlaid it on my stock pedal. Looks to accommodate a 12 wide quite nicely. Thanks again. Kenney |
so does anyone else have any home mode parts? the pedal is pertty cool i like the idea.im in the proccess of making my own kafer brace. right now i have all the measurements done but im waiting on the clevis rods i ordered from jegs. does a kafer brace count as a home made part? if yes then when i'm done i will post it here.
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my whole car's pretty much home made, filler, gaffa tape...... prob why it's always in bits:lmao:
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I think anything you had to actually make from scratch is a home-made part, from a custom wire holder to a carbon fiber dash!
Jason |
ok well here's my home made dash, full of expandy foam and filler
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...8.jpg~original |
before filling it up with expandy foam
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...4.jpg~original and after smoothing out with thin layer of glass fibre filler then body filler and matt black paint http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...1.jpg~original |
i like it...
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