Pan what to paint with?
 

What are you all using to paint pans?

The epoxy stuff?

POR-15

Or just get the whole thing powder coated?

hey

well to what I know the best would to powder coat it but that would be $$$
so the epoxy Primer and then paint over that's the way to go


Chris.

I used POR 15 on top, and some thin undercoating and POR 15 underneath.

I painted the framehorns, framehead, and rear torsion tube with some industrial oil-based black enamel.

how does powdercoating go with stone chips etc? ive wondered about that, once it chips cracks or anything nothings there to stop the exposed part rusting, you can't exactly fix powdercoated stuff as easy as things like POR etc, id love to know from people with experience aswell.

You are correct with trying to repair powder coating... (you just have to redo the whole part :( ). However, it takes alot to chip it (very flexible). When it does chip... you are correct in that there's nothing to stop rust. What I have done on parts prone to getting chipped is to "top coat" the color coat of powder with clear powder coat. This will add one more layer to keep from exposing bare metal. Get a piece of steel that has been "properly powder coated", and beat on it with a hammer :eek: . You will see it's very tuff stuff. POR 15 is a good choice, but in "side by side" test against Eastwood Co. "Encapsulator" the Eastwood stuff beat it. The test was done by a restoration magazine that was bias to both products.

you should rhino line (or other truck bed liner) the whole pan. some of the brands are kinda expensive but there are so brands that you can paint on yourself or you can take it to a place that does it proffessionally and have them spray it.

it may make your car a little heaver but you will never have to worry about rust and it may help with sound deadining.

you couild use masterseries as well. easier prep time then por 15.

Just make sure ALL signs of rust are gone before putting on bedliner material. It helps stop future rust, but does nothing for existing rust. Again, this is where the Eastwood encapusaltor comes in handy. It converts, and seals exsisting rust (like POR 15).

I use rustbullet, after using POR15 it is similar but much less fussy with prep..

Epoxy.
Cheap layer of paint (to be sure to have an water-tight layer)
Bodyschutz
Top layer of good paint

I did mine with rust bullet. Less prep work than por-15.

A good metal primer, then a couple of coats of enamel will be fine for a driver. Make sure you do your prep-work for any of these methods you choose.

Powder coating would be a waste unless this is some kind of high dollar custom, that was being paid for by the powder-coating company.

We are doing an Oval for a customer and had the pan powdercoated grey and the beam and al other parts black. total was $700. I have some pix of the pan built up and it looks real nice.:cool:

Thats about the price that I was thinking (I've had PC work done before).

$700. is a lot of $$$ to me (when there are options under/near $100).

I thought it was a good price for everthing they did. Pan, beam, trailing arms, tie rods, caps, body mount washers, etc.

I would never powder coat the pan. (because of the torsion that's in every car)

Wiebrand

If you are talking about flex (what your calling torsion?). They wouldn't powder coat parts like coil springs if it couldn't take this stress. Powder coat is a polyester resin that bonds to the part at the right temp. and time.

And powder coat look goooooooood too.

Looks schweet NO_H20!! Killer job man! :agree:

Thanks Wrench. The grey pan, black parts with stainless hardware should give this one lots of detail.

You're right about the coil springs. But I've also seen alot of powder coated equipment that started with an crack (from stone hitting it, etc), that rusted out underneath. Moisture gets under it, and you just can see it in an (too) late stadium.
And as far as I know you may not seal the bonds of the pan halfs and the tunnel by powder coating. ANd how do you than prevent getting moisture between them???

Grt Wiebrand

We cleaned and sealed the seams after powder coating with grey seam sealer.

racelook, your right about rust under the chips (as I stated in earlier post). But if the metal is prepped right, the better the powder coat bond (just like painting). If you do get chips. If repowder coating is not an option (like floor pan). Then you can feather the edges, and use paint to touch-up. Powder coating can also be color sanded and buffed to blend the touch-up... ;)

Hurculiner is what I would use you just brush it on. It will cost you about 100 bucks. It is durable and water tight and should last several years. Comes in 3 different colors too blk red and grey...........