what would the hp be?
 

Ok, I have 2 motors, one will go in the bug when its done and stay stock, the second motor will be built up. I dont want a 2L but I want a 1776,1835 or a 1915, or maybe a 1641cc.I want it to be pretty quick but still be reliable.My budget is maybe 4grand or whatever I save up to till the time I'm ready to tear my other motor down.I found a website that shows all the stock specs on the bugs.The motor in my bug(or will be in my bug stock has 65bhp and 86lbs torque, and weighs 1786lbs stock.The other motor is out of a 74 and has 46hp and 89lbs of torque.
I was thinking about a combo, here is one I was thinking of, tell me what you think?This is for the future refference so I know what I want and to be ready, if you know what I mean?

the bore- 87mm,90.5mm,92mm, or 94mm AA pistons and cylinders (they ok?)
Eagle Racing cam-Adv. Duration .276", Duration @.050"-.228", Lift @ cam- .380" Lift w/ 1.1:1 rockers-.417"
Straight cut cam (Would it do anything?)
Super Stock Rhino Rocker arm kit 1.1:1
Dual 34mm ICTs or Dual 40mm Kadrons or Weber 40 IDF's
044 Super Mag CNC round port heads
Springloaded pushrods
Lightened 200mm flywheel
Pertronix Billet Distributor
Pertronix 8mm plug wires
Pertronix black coil w/ 45000 volts
Ceramic coated merged header with a glasspack

I am aware the pertronic ignition system does not increase hp but thats part of the setup
What you guys think it would have for hp?If its a high reving motor that would be awesome IMO, i like cars that rev high, AND DONT TELL ME TO GET A HONDA for saying that :laugh:

Just my opinion, as i'm planning a daily driver yet a bit powerful type 1 engine for my GL project

If you want to have reliable pistons, you can only choose between 90.5 and 94. This is because their cylinder wall thickness is the same as stock. The others are thinner. If you want torque, you must go with a stroker, i think a 78mm crank would be a good option, since no major modding to the crankcase is required, only some clearancing. AA are chinese, but some say they're true forged, unlike mahle. About the camshaft I'd go with an engle 120 or equivalent, with 1.1 rockers. If you've got more buck, you can get an fk-8 and a set of 1.4 rockers. 90.5 x 78mm, that would make it more reliable because of the lesser stress on the valvetrain. 044 P&P heads are perfect, maybe with 45 x 35.5 valves, depending on your engine displacement.
The straight cut gears only add noise, which some guys seem to like. Someone said once at thesamba that it was like adding baseball cards to your bike's spokes. The lighter flywheel is a must. As for the carbs, i'd go for 44 idf webers for anything above 1776cc, don't get the ict's unless you are not increasing the displacement very much. Whatever ignition you like, as long as it's pointless, and a proper sized header, depending on your heads' flow. You might also need an external cooler to increase the engine's lifespan, in case you use big displacement or a high compression ratio.
BTW revving a vw makes it lose useful life, so it loses reliability in that sense. That's why I'd go with a stroker.
I'm planning my 2007cc, btw. Oh, and you should read the tech articles on aircooled.net for more info.

Yep, what Evil said... 2007cc (90.5 x 78) is a very good combo. Good torque and longlife... perfect combo. ;)

Of these four sizes, the only two that got a reasonably universal thumbs up during my investigation of Type I engines were the 1776 and 1915. I highlighted these portions of the EvilAngel's post below because I think it bears repeating -- especially since you brought up reliability.

BTW, reliability is easy to understand but hard to define. Everyone's definition and threshold will be different.

I am not expert enough to comment on any other details and won't pretend to be.

I will say horsepower and torque are fleeting numbers and can vary within the same hardware selection. Another aspect on horsepower and torque that warrants emphasizing is these numbers will vary with the same exact engine and combo depending on where it is measured.

For example, the original engine in my '71 was as stock as stock can be. The owner's manual lists it as being 60 bhp at 4400 rpm and 81.7 ft-lbs. at 3000 rpm. It was measured on the dyno during November 2005 at 44.5 hp at 4200 rpm and 69.2 ft-lbs. at 2700 rpm.

If one of the experts chime in with a guesstimate or a range with your hypothetical hp, they are more likely to spout a dyno number as the experts I have listened to have access to, have had access to, or own a dyno.

WEll guys what I meant for it being reliable is because it will be my daily driver. My Sentra is going to my brother so the bug has to be reliable.I dont want to have to replace something every week :laugh: I never read anything on other forums about a 2007cc, are they a nice motor when built up nice?This motor wont be touched until my bugs body is done and its up and running so I got plenty of time.Im just wanting ideas so I'll know ahead of time what I want you know what I mean?
I cant find any heads with the 45x35.5 valves but I seen heads with 42x37.5 valves, dual rev springs, chromoly retainers s/s sure grips and whatever bore I want.I also read the tech articles on aircooled.net, mostly the one on basic bolt ons for a 1600cc.

Well neither am I, but since I am also in the quest for the perfect combo for my daily driver (and sometimes also sole source of transportation) I have read a lot recently about VERY reliable combos and with a decent power output.
Remember the bug is a very light car compared to others, so even with lower HP numbers you can outrun them. According to John Connoly from aircooled.net, with about 140 HP you can outrun a mustang, and above 180 you can beat a vette :eek:
Now, regarding piston size reliability, the reason for this is that you want your cylinder walls to be as tick as stock. If you use thinner walls, heat will warp them.
As for revving the engine. You can do it, however, too high rpm means a lot of friction, and a lot of wear, therefore, less useful life. Remember that the stock bug has a redline at abou 4500 rpm (at least a mex-spec bug does). You can get a higher redline by changing some components, such as the crank, the cam, connecting rods, etc, but then, ther'es wear. That's exactly why I chose a stroker. Higer power at lower RPM's, and even better, more torque in the lowrange! All these equal longer life under similar conditions

Edit: Oh and I forgot to say, I am also adding an extra oil cooler, since the extra displacement will generate more heat, and more heat = less life.

1.: is it the same with type4 too?? I'm hesitating between 94 and 96..

2:: AA products are better than mahle???? it's new for me...really??

Well I dont'n know if the'yre better or not. Several websites have reported that new mahle piston sets are actually cast and not forged (for example, cip1.com and aircooled.net, under hte product description). However, Mahle is doubtless a very high quality brand when it comes to aircooled pistons.

According to cip1, the AA are true forged, however they're made in China

Here you can see for yourselves:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....C%2DC10%2D5167
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...18200773348335
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....C%2DC10%2D5204

Note that AA are about 50 bucks cheaper. You can blame that on branding, or on quality...

I really don't know about type 4 cylinder walls, but why don't you make a search on the forums on thesamba? You might find very good T4 combos in there.

Aircooled.net sales a rebuild kit.
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...23200766155208
everything needed except heads,case(i have a case) to build a 2007cc, which is what you guys recomended.Would that kit be a good one to buy, or would I be better off buying it all separate, well when I'm ready I mean:laugh:
And heads, but what would be a streetable head
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...23200766155208
And a cam I would want a wicked idle...dont ask, I seen a video of a bug sounded like a 2 stroke jackhammer lol I liked that sound.

Veedub, there's another article there describin the pros and cons of different cylinder and crank setups, as well as other "internal" mods. Check http://aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resour...es/t1hpeng.htm
And i also want my engine to be as reliable as possible, and i've read that the 2007cc combo is very reliable if properly cooled (i'm planning on an external oil cooler, and running 8.5:1 CR)

Sorry I meant 40x35.5 valves, and for what I've read Steve Tims makes a set of heads that's both excellent in performance and reliability. You will need all those valvetrain stuff (dual springs etc) for the hot camshaft, for reliability and to prevent valve float at high RPM.
It seems to me that you were looking at cb's heads, their 044 castings are said to be very reliable. Remember that they also must be ported and polished, there's no point on using big valves on a stock port head, if you can get a p&p'd one.

Well I've been considering the exact same kit. As for the price, is depends really on who you buy from. I've read that scat's lifters are not among the best, but their other parts are a good choice. The main con I see on this kit is that you can't get specific parts, you are stuck with what scat gives in it's kit. So, if I want an FK cam, i'd have to buy it separate, the same with 1.4 rockers, etc. You can't fine-tune it.

According to AC.net, their level 2 heads are streetable. They're 043 castings, so they are more reliable than using stock 040 or 041.

A loud sound can be achieved with the cam gears, usig straight cut. I dont think an engine being that loud (as a jackhammer) on IDLE would be streetable (or street legal anyway :D )

:laugh: Good point.
I read on the link you gave me there streetable heads are Level 5 and Level 3, theres no level 2 by the way;)
I didnt notice it was a Scat kit..well they got a bugpack kit but they dont come with all the parts the scat kit has and there the same prices, weird.
I also seen a kit advertized in the HVW magazine that sales for around 1200 bucks but its for any size that you want, I think 800 was the starting price though.

Well, you're right about the heads.. my bad :D

Bugpack tends to be more expensive than scat in most cases, don't know why thoug. I mentioned I was considering the volkstroker kit but I'm not a fan of buying kits now, ever since i discovered serrano's. There I can buy whatever parts i want for the price of a Kit. Maybe he even sells kits, but i haven't asked.

It's a store that sells parts via thesamba.com classifieds. They sell good quality parts at extremely low prices. However, the main advantage from aircooled.net is the excellent support that John Conolly offers, from what i've read.
Check this link, it's a search on thesamba that shows serrano's articles.
HERE

well, thanks a lot. Meanwhile I made a quick search, and nearly everybody prefered the AA-1s against the Mahle... good to know. At the moment I'm just looking for some infos. As I have written elsewhere, a set of AA pistons was offered to me. they are 96mm, my only problem is with the price...it's quite expensive. But at least it's in my country, I can see it don't have to wasting time and be frightened about shipping etc.. I have serious doubt with buying things from internet... so it would be much more simple to me. (howewer there are lot of good quality products in the States on ridiculous prices, so maybe I should risk it.:confused: )
thnx for the useful links!

Anybody know of any other sites that sells full engine rebuild kits like aircooled.net does? But, in that same range of 1200.00 or close?