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-   -   Q: What front setup? (https://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11112)

K9Dober December 31st 2010 10:12

Q: What front setup?
 
New to this forum, but here goes for the first post:

I'm getting nuts thinking about which front setup I'm going for. I have a '56 that getting the treatment right now. Rear setup is going to be 944T trailing arms, with MBT uniball setup. I'm not sure about which coilovers to use yet, but I'm looking at the MBT & Remmele ones. Wheels are E88 in 8x18 front and 10x18 rear.

So, possibilities for the front:

1: My 2" shortened linkpin setup with coilovers.
2: Switch to a balljoint, but unsure of which setup?
3: Mendeola a-arm.

Has anyone of you tried working with powersteering for a type1?

Thanks! :)

Frank

spannermanager January 4th 2011 13:59

the trouble is, the t/b front has limitations, b/j or k/l , and your at the limit wheel width wise, as to be effective, they need LOTS of caster and camber, also, you have to make them so stiff, they are unpleasant for street use, so i would work with what you have, in view of the fact that to swap to b/j is a lot of work, not so far away from going double wishbone if you do decide to ditch the kingpins, but these can be effective, I've raced with k/l and been competitive, also be sure whatever you do is allowed for any discipline you may want to compete in, same with power steering. also ,generally its not needed, i recon 7" rim width is the limit for a sorted beam, with the necessary extreme camber and caster, after this, its wasting tyre, loosing braking power and generally loosing footprint.
in short, for most people, a sorted beam can work to extreme grip levels, and they are quick and cheap to repair after a shunt. hope this view helps your decisions.;).

K9Dober January 9th 2011 11:57

Thanks for your reply Spannermanager!

So, if I understand you right, I could use my 2" narrowed beam, using coilovers, dropped spindles. A friend of mine makes rear torquebars, and I've thought of making him fabricate one for the bottom front tube, and weld it in. If going for the t/b front, I'd fix the roll bar to the top tube of the t/b. I've got 8" rims for the front now, and reading your post makes me look for 5" inner rings to go for 7" instead. And would it be possible to make some kind of urethane disc to edge the bottom arms 5mms out in both sides, to adjust the camber?

Does this make sense?? :-)

Thanks!!

spannermanager January 11th 2011 14:43

Hi mate, unfortunately you cant move the lower torsion arm outboard to increase negative camber due to the fixed axis of the link pins, what i do is frowned upon by those that have never done it, but i have, many times, and never had any problems, you need to reset (bend) the torsion arm eyes using heat,(a big blow torch) both upper and lower arms need doing the same amount for the k/l pin assembly to drop into the two arms smoothly, its easy if you have two blow torches! then just shim them up as usual.
personally, i don't use a front beam brace, i think this is what you mean, but yes, if its for you, go for it, they do a good job, but i don't use them because i crash a lot!! id rather the beam went than the bulkhead area, but i may need one this season, as I'm now using slick tyres, i would put it in to triangulate into the frame head area.
your ARB idea is sound also, I've put them on the top of the lower arm, and underneath on the upper arm, but you will need to clearance the spare wheel well for this.
I'm not sure coil overs will work on a k/l beam due to the length needed for the top bolt, b/j beams have a better shock tower design to allow this, as you know the k/l shock bolt is at a right angle to the shock axis, it will have a huge bending force on a long single shear bolt, maybe someone will be along soon who has actualy done it, maybe an uprated bolt fix will do the job, the off road boys must know about this problem. your bad boy wheels will be worth a go for road use before you change them, i'm in racing for track use mode most time's, try them and good luck with the project..... regards, spanners.:cool:

spannermanager January 16th 2011 15:12

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...4.jpg~original One way of doing a front ARB install, be sure it complies with any rules and regs you may encounter, i mounted this 22mm one up high out of harms way, it adjusts on upper and lower mountings, do forgive the rust
built up over the Christmas break, look at the damp, looks like its raining!!:confused:

coolrydes January 20th 2011 12:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by K9Dober (Post 79015)
New to this forum, but here goes for the first post:

I'm getting nuts thinking about which front setup I'm going for. I have a '56 that getting the treatment right now. Rear setup is going to be 944T trailing arms, with MBT uniball setup. I'm not sure about which coilovers to use yet, but I'm looking at the MBT & Remmele ones. Wheels are E88 in 8x18 front and 10x18 rear.

So, possibilities for the front:

1: My 2" shortened linkpin setup with coilovers.
2: Switch to a balljoint, but unsure of which setup?
3: Mendeola a-arm.

Has anyone of you tried working with powersteering for a type1?

Thanks! :)

Frank

Here is the info on the A-Arm set and rear set up to out handle anything else.

http://www.germanlook.net/forums/sho...light=mendeola


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