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Mysticle31 June 30th 2004 00:19

Most Reliable Power per Dollar Spent!?
I'm a newbie to aircooleds. I've posted and done all sorts of reading in the brake and suspension forums.

The car I'm looking to get has three inch wider fenders on it. That's a lotta TIRE! I need something that makes good use of the traction!

I am capable of doing some fab work to put in a SIMPLE watercooled option.

I'm looking for something FUN!!!! That I can be competitive with on the track (no one races SB's here) I want something that will leave Mustang GT's (stock or lightly modified and that class sports car) And something were the corvette and viper owner isn't careful he gets walked on too! but if he's good he at that thing it still in my rear view mirror! Reliable is also a good thing..

What should I do?

Type 4 ( is the only guys I know of.. any good?)

Rotory (most have about 100hp stock just like the Type 4's except the 93+, 87-91 Turbos, Series IV, and GSL-LE) Worth it? I'd imagine in the relm of type 4 vs Rotory 100HP that the 4 might be easier and cheaper but to get more HP factory with the rotory might be better??

What about the Alright, so I bought how to make your car handle. And I've learned a bunch. What I want is a nice firm ride not painful or bone jaring. Mabey slightly lowered in the rear, a lil more in the front mabey (helps weight transfer too!) What is the best way to do it? IE what rear stuff to use and what front stuff do I use? the control arms MUST remain paralell to the ground!

What about the Subaru engines? don't know much about them?

Type 1's (I don't know where to get type 4 parts if I were to sheer build my own and not as a kit. Do they use type 1 parts? That may or may not give a type 1 a sheer cost advantage not having to pay somone for their design and trial time.. but bad if it fails..)

I do have a VR6 engine I'm looking to sell.. Can I put that in? lol

Poor Realist June 30th 2004 10:37

Go rotary. They are smaller than a type 1 engine, a dime a dozen at the wreckers, and there are lots of different trim levels. You can easily get a reliable 160hp out of those.

Of course, this is all hearsay. :cool:

LOAF June 30th 2004 11:13

If interested in rotaries check this site out..

Some good info..

Why not a subaru WRX engine while your at it. :)

Mysticle31 June 30th 2004 12:04

Those are way wide :D

TitoRay June 30th 2004 17:16

If you have the resources, skills, etc., do whatever you want. If you have the money, Jake Raby of (thats a .com) is a well respected engine builder who is obsessed with the precision and perfection of his trade; type 4 engines. The engines he builds have a purpose and a reputation of being high-powered and long lasting.
Simply put, a 100 hp type 4 engine would be a more logical choice then a 100 hp rotary "conversion."
If you are running huge meats and want to eat Mustang GT's(me too! :D), 150+ hp might be what you want, obtainable via both rotary and type 4. High horsepower(turbocharged?) rotary engines require an intercooler setup(correct?), and more custom work. So if you have what it takes or want to endure the task of installing a rotary engine, go for it!
If you have the funds, you can buy a complete turn-key engine, tuned and ready to haul balls from Mr. Raby.
Of course, their are other lesser-known options as far as combos, builders, etc, but thats another story.
High-powered type 1 engines do well at the track. 11-12 second et's are not uncommon, but driving a type 1 engine capable of these times everyday is not very realistic.
From my point of view, based on your words, you might want to go rotary. A tire boiling 250 horsepower is more than possible. But then you have to consider tranny upgrades, etc..... :rolleyes: ;)

Look at this page specifically...

Mysticle31 June 30th 2004 18:22

I've done some reading on Jakes engines. And I really like them. I think that if their power is all in the right spots then I can make best use of it on the street and it'd be better to have less of that then more power that I can't get to. (and the former car would be faster?)

But, I'm not interested in an engine that I've spent money on that's now all taped out for power upgrades in the future. But I like paying more and geting it brand new! (IE heres a built motor that had 150hp modified. vs. 150HP stock or 130!)

Mysticle31 June 30th 2004 18:49

I'm curious why type 1's running these wow ET's are a pain do drive?. Those cars might be faster on the dragstrip but with a type 4 outpace it on the street? These aircooled moters. I just learned that some say..Webber 48's would cost 1000! I thougth these aircooled suckers were cheap.. :eek:

What's the deal with Waserboxers or Oxyboxers?

NO_H2O June 30th 2004 19:11

They say a T-1 is better suited for the strip, a T-4 is better suited for a road course (more grunt). A big type 1 likes a 48 webber combo, A type 4 likes 45 Dell's. A 48 IDA is more of an "ON-OFF" fuel delivery were a Dell DRLA combo is a little more driver friendly (smoother). They also say that Dell vs Webber IDF mm for mm, Dells flow better. As for the price of Webbers IDF or IDA, they have gone up in the past few months due to a stike and possible plant closing. I went with a 2275 Type-1, a high torque off road cam and Dell 45 DRLA's and so far I like it.
As far as Waserboxer and Oxyboxer,,,,I don't know much about them.

TitoRay June 30th 2004 20:53

Type 4 engines are generally known to last longer and of the dynographs i've seen, some have almost flat torque curves. Power at any rpm range.

~2.3 liter type 4 lasts ~100k miles
~2.3 liter type 1 lasts ~10k miles??

Point being, type 1 motors with this much power cannot be daily driven without constantly being maintained.

Actually, who knows now. Technology keeps getting better. Nikisil plated cylinders, etc.
:confused: :confused:

TitoRay June 30th 2004 20:54

Oh, and we haven't even mentioned turbocharging type 1's and 4's yet. :cool:

One of my favorite sayings, and oh so accurate...credits to the originator. :D

Power, reliability, cheap. You get to pick two. Or something like that. :p

boygenius June 30th 2004 21:59

I hate rotaries with a passion. The fuel mileage isn't very good and they don't make any low end tourqe. Once you get them reved up the power is very smooth and they pull pretty hard. Mine had about 180 hp according to the local RX-7 shop.

The WRX engine only needs a little triming to fit and they are good for about 280 hp with only a few mods. Do a search in this forum for more information on the WRX swap.

Mysticle31 July 1st 2004 00:35

For such a little carb and mani those are expensive (vs say.. Edelbrock for V8's. wowsers!) Mabey I shouldn't dump my MK2 VR6..heh..

Type 4, Rotory, Subie. Anyone know anything about the brases I'd need to reinforce the chasis for a high HP motor? (I'm hoping to add a simple rollcage or at least a roll bar any good ones?)

LOAF July 1st 2004 08:48

WRX engines are good.. I even at one point considered it for my vert.. But do to the clearancing issues, and having to remove material I opted against it..

They do make power.. The one in my car is around 270-280 at the motor.. With some Engine management and a high quality exhaust, it is like night and day.. To bad I can't transplant it into the bug..


Mysticle31 July 1st 2004 13:05

What tranny and drivetrain would I want to use with a Subie engine to make best street use of it's powerband and hold up to that power? How much does a swap cost..on the average (or personal experence)?

Also, where can I get more info on doing say a junkyard supercharger? What cooling issues would there be? (it's like having a bigger engine right? the watercooled don't ness. need bigger rads?)

Mysticle31 July 1st 2004 17:13

I just read about something called a Type V Waterboxer (Oxyboxer) What is that? More info please?

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