The ULTIMATE how-to on Kafer Cup DIY
 

Well, not yet....here's what we need:

1) Dimensions
2) Pictures - detailed
3) Parts sources

This is for the Kafer Cup brace, obviously! Who's first?

From another thread:

Start by measuring between your shock towers in the rear. I beleive it's 32 inches. This will be the length of the horizontal top brace. Next are the two lower diagonal braces. Mine were 13 to 15 inches long. I will measure them, but length of these correspond to where you weld the lower frame horn tabs.

Get 6 feet of 9/16" id steel tube stock and 3 right hand thread 3/8" rod ends, also 3 left hand thread 3/8" rod ends, 3 rh 3/8" 24 nuts, 3 lh 3/8 24 nuts and
3 right and 3 left jam nuts for the rod ends. good luck finding the left hand jam nuts! I couldn't. ACE hardware has the best rod ends, Orchard supply also has them. The only tough part is making the brackets for the shocks. Buy some 2" wide 1/8" thick flat bar stock for this. I'll draw up a diagram for welding. Oh yeah.... 2 rear 944 long shock bolts.

This is how I made my rear brace.
22mm round stock T6-6061 aluminum
6 threaded fork ends with jam nuts
2 - 1/2 fine thread taps(one right hand one left hand)
Tap drill
6 8MM GRADE 8 ALLEN BOLTS
6 nylock nuts
8mm T6-6061 aluminum plate
round stock to fit over shock bolt
really long bolts to go through the top of the shock
steel tabs to weld to frame horns

The entire set up is made from aluminum except for the fork ends. I chose aluminum for many reasons: easy to work with, lightweight, and you can polish it easily. You can see a picture of the set up along with my front strut brace on page 5 of the suspension galleries on germanlook.com.

Sorry I don't have any dimensions but when I go home I will take some. The hardest part was fabricating the part that attaches to the top of shock. I had the tabs welded at 90 degrees from each other. It took some clearancing to get the length on that part so it would clear the body.

Good thread :D ! I think aluminum bars and a steel shock tower mount would be easiest for the home DIY person, as most can weld steel and not aluminum.

Construction on the shock tower mount would be the most challenging part or this deal. so it sounds like you need to clearace the shock access hole? i have not looked at it much, but im guessing you could design it in a way that you would not have to.

Later,
Jonathan

Some raw material sources on ebay:

http://business.listings.ebay.com/Ra...sortpropertyZ2

And a really cool site with diagrams and some definitions:

http://www.ronstan.com.au/arch/assembly.asp

Their catalog with available pieces in stainless steel. They call it architechtural rigging:

http://www.ronstan.com/catalogue/A024-025.pdf

Ok, i have been thinking about this topic all day now :D
I have a local source for some "FK" rod ends (Clevis style) or normal ball joint rodends.
I have some more questions on this.

- What size and length upper shock bolt will i need, it seams like i need about 1 1/2 inch of material to mount the tabs on a spacer on the shock bolt, or is more needed?
It also looks like i would need to cut some of the body where the access hole is for the upper shock bolt, no problem there.

So what thickness do i need to make the tabs out of (would 1/8 be ok? or should i go 3/16. Also what thickness and dimentions would be best for the sleeve/spacer that you weld the tabs on that also slides over the upper shock bolt?

And last but not least... whats the best size rod end shank to use? 3/8? 5/8?
And what kind of rod end would be best? the "clevis" style or the balljoint style?

Thanks,
Jonathan

i'm a slacker (a.k.a. outta time). i bought mine from CSP. there is another thread on here with some suggestions for building your own as well. be sure to do a search. i think crazy cooter built one.

what exactly does the kafer brace do? what are some ways to get my 69 to ride like it's on 'rails'? what are some other ways to get the best handling possible out of my standard?

jas

poor boy,

The kafer brace basically makes sure your engine doesn't move in any direction. Right now, your 69's engine is cantelevered out from the frame horns and if you push and pull on it, the engine moves up and down pretty easily. The kafer brace keeps it in one spot and prevents wheel hop.

If you want to make yer 69 handle, get some sway bars ( have a 24mm front and 27mm rear, both adjustable), good shocks, and tires. If you want, you can upgrade yer rear torsion bars to a larger diameter (I plan on using 30mm long bars). Good luck.

Nick

My 70 does nice flat sideways burnouts now. does that help?