pedals (long)
 

okay so I ran into a problem, couldn't get the Saco hydro kit to work. Yeah tried a lot of stuff, posted most of it here:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=92497

The long and short of it is I found out that the slave cylinder needs about a 3/4" mc. The mc that comes with it is 5/8. My problem was that no matter how much bleeding and adjusting I couldn't get the pedals to release the clutch. Actually before I returned the kit, set it up on the bench. I stroked the mc all the way and only got ~1/2" of movement at the slave.

So I returned the kit and well am now looking for some sort of replacment. I was thinking of CNC or wilwood. Tiltons are way too much $$$. Anyways I really don't what to cut up the front support to fit pedals. So I've been looking at hanging ones and noticed it would also be a bit of a pain to fit, the steering column is in the way.

Well I came up with an idea. I can get the swing reverse mounting mc pedal assembly like here:

http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-a...4&subseries=NR

now instead of trying to work between the steering column and the fuel tank, well why not floor mount it? Yeah not what it is intended for but then no cutting. I'd have to build a box as the mc would now be under your feet, but nothing a piece of aluminum can't fix.

The problem would be that you pedals would be about 3 inches higher because of the master cylinders sitting under your feet. Not exaxtly comfortable, unless I tilted the seat back at an angle. Yeah I thought about cutting under them but then you would lose ground clearance, not to keen on that.

But, then thought why not just cut the pedals down a little? It would screw up the pedal ratio, but if I didn't put out to much I should be okay right? I heard stock was around 4.5:1 but wanted to make sure I measured the pedal and it comes close to 8.5" (from pivot to middle of the pedal) and the pivot to the pivot on the brake clevis is about 1.5" Using these measurements I get a pedal ratio of about 5.66:1.

Dont know if I did this right, you just divide one by the other to get the ratio right?

Anyways thoughts? opinions?

Thanks
Rip

What was wrong with the stock clutch cable?

well because when I was working on the pan I cleaned up the inside of the tunnel, used phosphate to kill the rust then painted por 15 on the side. But before I did that I knew I wanted a hydro clutch and because the clutch cable tube was broken in a few places I broke the remaining 2 welds holding it in and pulled it out. Soo... moral of the story trying to cross a burnt bridge sucks.

So I'm stuck with using a hydro clutch system.

here's a pic of the pedals

http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-a...es/224-dim.jpg

so if you flip it you'll see what I want to do. Now 12 1/8" isn't too, much larger than the stock pedals, actually if I don't use the tall/short mc, and use a non reserivour one that will cut the size closer to stock.

I was also thinking of using a cookie sheet pan, one that can house the pedals, and was about an inch deep. Then I could get this

http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-asp//images/1220.jpg

weld it across the cookie pan. Cut a hole in the floor pan so the cookie pan can fit in the floor pan. And then I got a home made pedal mount. Use a piece of aluminum to cover the top (inside the passenger compartment) and protect the mc.

opinions?
Rip

Can't help you with the clutch setup but I mounted my dual M/C's with brake balance bar using my stock pedals.

All I did was study the engineering drawings from this:
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-...e/60degree.jpg
and produced my own version. I then built a bellcrank system (1 bellcrank) that used the stock brake pushrod.

I found a suitable place to mount the assembly (behind the beam, under the gastank), linked up the bellcrank to the stock brake pushrod and plumbed the brake lines.

I have incredible braking, am able to adjust my bias depending on how full the fuel tank is, and it all looks stock ... except for the blue bias dial with red sticker peeking up from just under the dash :cool: and I didn't have to cut 1 peice of sheetmetal.

Sandeep

nice, so how much does that thing run?

so did you attach it to the frame head? or just made a new bracket that comes of off somthing?

thanks
Rip

@sandeep, that sounds very, very interesting.
got pics of it?

Ditto Tom '72. Does it seal like stock too? I'm starting to try to figure out how I'm going to run braking and also a hydrolic clutch setup. I just don't want to cut corners if I can do it right the first time.

Jason

just to keep guys posted, search for "MCP master cylinder" might work, depending on the stroke, for adapting the clutch to hydro using the stock pedals. I've emailed some guys one it, hopfully they'll reply.

Its used on go karts.