Spray bars for the rockers arms
 

Hello everyone
Question, is there anyone that sells a kit for adding a oiling system for the rocker arms and valve stems.
I had oil seals installed on my intake which will even more starve the valves of oil, and the notorious low oil to the rocker arms

Hi effvee - where did you get that info?

I have an comp motor that sees 7500rpm every time the button is pushed ... no issues with standard rocker gear.

Other, street, motors I own (or have owned) have covered in excess of 100,000 miles with standard rocker gear - again no issues with rocker gear except for occasional pitted adjusting screw. No failures, no shaft galling, no problems.

Ever.

Hi, it's not that the failure rate is high, but oil control in vw is not the best.
I have had my last engine seize a valve and brake off due to lack of oil.
So,a spray bar is just extra protection.

sounds like a lot of work for not a lot of benefit. ohc then yes its somthing that would be needed.
imho getting the oil out of the rocker chamber is harder than getting the oil up there.

Possibly you were just unlucky with a guide or valve.

Disregard that one unlucky incident and keep everything standard - the simple factory set-up works very well with no reliability problems in drag-race, and off-road/endurance situations

Hi, here's some history on that blunder.
It was my type one 2332, the choices were either millings 30mm steel pump, or standard 26mm.
I had to choose either, stock relief springs and 30mm pump. Or high pressures springs and 26mm pump.

Somewhere I got it mixed up, I think I installed the high pressure springs with the 30mm pump.

This caused multiple times of damaging my frame ph-1 filter. I'd drive 50 miles home, and by the time I got there;I would have an oil puddle on the ground, and my entire deck lid just dropping with oil from a damaged filter..

Somewhere in all of this on the freeway going to work I had an engine miss. I towed the car home and it sat. Only in the last year have I disassembled the heads.
I thought my rocker shaft nut had came apart. I was just pissed with all of the issues happening.

So now, I'm back at it. I will at some point put together a type IV engine. This engine I had big dreams for. 3.0 liter, engine plus heads, rod crank, oil pump, are all supposed to support a high horsepower turbo engine.
A 911-11 blade fan, with small alt pulley for traffic condition, and a larger crank pulley. But when I had the pulley made I might have went too large on the pulley diameter, it covers about 1 inch of the top of the oil pump area. I had choose the 33mm sheddic (spelling) pump/full flow. So tomorrow on thanksgiving day I'm going to mock up the case/crank/oil pump cover area and either be happy or @amn pissed off. I had all of the stock oil pressure reliefs milled off, in order to run external oiling system, even regulated/externally.

Welcome back!

I know what it feels like to be pissed off with a car or engine... it's usually because something has broken. Usually an aftermarket part :(

Hi everyone,I took some pictures today of my oil pump to pulley area. I don't seem to be able to download the pics.

If I use the sheddic pump(spelling) there will be no issues. I e-mailed pauter and sent pics.
Pauter pump may work, I didn't see a scavenge circuit on the pauter pump. Given the fact that the push rod tubes aid in oil return, how does the over amount of oil stay in the heads; is it from sudden acceleration? The push rods can't supply the over oiling Iissue. Doesn't the scavenge process airoate the oil?

on a high revving engine thats normally got bigger pistons in it the crank case pressure is much high and can even be several psi positive in the case. add to this the extra rpm means extra oil flow as the pump is pumping more oil and the oil that gets up into the heads cant flow back down the push rod tubes.
i have seen drain tubes added to the rocker chamber on some engines to try and get the oil away and back to the crank case.
I very much doubt the valve seized due to lack of oil, more likely it tagged the piston first and bent, or the guide collapsed and grabed the valve.
in 20 years of working on these engines and the engine builders i work with i have never seen any one need more oil n the heads. thats not to say your engine does not need it but IMHO it wont.

Hi, thanks for replying. This engine was my daily driver, I was not in a race/high performing mod. In southern California 75mph is basically the normal driving speed; that's when it happened. Yes the piston did hit the valve, but the valve shouldn't been there at that time; stuck for some reason.

On this same engine, in a earlier post,I spoke about having a low oil light on after adding some AN-8 lines to a remote oil cooler. At that time Walter responded starting that a-8 line would not cause a low oil pressure problem. The lines were routed to above the left rear cv-joint.
One thing I have left out was, within that same day of low oil light,I had a engine fire. The fire was due to a stuck intake valve. I did not know the engine was on fire, electrical was going out(do to the fire),I pulled over saying what now! Just sitting there in a parking lot thinking, when a young man ran over to me and told me I was on fire.

So, back to my problem of mixing and matching, pumps ,springs and lines; was to many issues for the lubrication circuit.I

End result, piston did hit the valve, but because of seizure. On the day of engine failure I had no warnings and I believe oil pressure was good.
After the fire I just re-wired stuff due to the fire had done some damage, the fire came through the intake port.
I'm not a trusting proponent of the oil control valves in a bug any more. When i resurrect my 2332, I am going to use the jay-cee direct oiling system, along with his oil control filter mount. Yes remote cooler and pressure reliefs valves.

However, on a more positive note, this now topic is for my type IV engine. If I can get away with a pauter oil pump, I'll add it. I don't think the autocraft pump will install. My type IV engine oil supply will be supplied externally,and regulated externally. Since i modded that case to adapt a type one extra sump to it, I'll use the autocraft external oil pick up to pump.

Hey effvee, I can relate to what you have experienced and I´ve had similar issues with type 1 engines,never with a type 4.It doesn´t have to do with it being a type 1 or type 4,but eventhough I might get beaten for this...the mass produced products in the US for the VW aircooled is just plain crap.They make a good paperweight b,but have no place on a quality engine.Melling,Shadek ist garbage.Either buy Pauter or Autocraft or keep the stock oilpump.The stock type 4 oilpump is good for just about any application.Armin Klein uses stock pumps on his turbo engines and has also never had an oil problem.Key to a good oil system is and pressure balance is proper crankcase ventilation and large enough oil lines.Running a dash 8 oil line will not cut it on a large engine or high horsepower engine. Oil lines should be dash 10 or dash 12 if you run a 3 liter. Crank case ventilation is extremely important also,it must be large enough,starting with dash 12 or dash 16 vent hose and a breather box that has at least the same displacement as the engine.Other than that, I agree 100% with Oval..

Mark

Hi, well it all depends now on fitment on my engine.I would love to upgrade to autocraft,especially with the scavange ports for the heads. With my choice of serpentine pulleys,I have clearance issues.if I could post some pics; but my computer is sick I would share what I see.

With antique rocker gear design you do NOT need much oil 'up top' so super duty oil pumps are a WOTAM.
I have schadeck (sp?) oil pumps in my motors. Its tolerances are - and always have been - great (used by my engine builder for 30 years). 1916cc, webers etc.
No filters
No coolers
No oil drain lines
No opportunity for leaks or spills
No messing about

Ok, from what I'm getting is,I won't need all of the excess. I really think that my pulley size, has taken the pauter and autocraft choices off the table of possibility.

Question, basically I see allot of other engine builders engines that I would like my engine to equal. The suspension maker MBT. Their car I noted had an upgraded oil supply on it, plus it looks like they have their system scavenging.

So, it can't hurt, maybe I can re-ask the question of the spray bar subject, and see if I can get some pro v. cons to it. Taking into fact that many cons have been already stated.

the thing is the only part of the stock rocker gear that needs oil is allready supplied oil via the push rods. its the rocker to shaft that needs the oil and a small splash on the valve tip if your on stock rockers.
only thing i have seen on high rpm motor with big valve spring pressures is swivel feet adjusters seizing then breaking, not sure if this is down to poor parts of there seizing due to lack of oil.