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-   -   Engine help please!!!!!!! (https://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9698)

BigPhattyVW August 31st 2008 17:01

Engine help please!!!!!!!
 
Hello everybody!

Ok I am stumped:mad: . I have a 1600 dual port with 34pict/3 carb, 009 dist with a pertronix igniter 2 installed. When it is running for about 10 minutes with normal city or highway driving, it starts to stutter and lose power. Not all at ones but sporadically. I just recently tuned up the engine, and one by one installed new plugs, then a new cap and rotor. Each time I replaced an item the problem would disappear then come back about a week later. I could replace the cables or the coil next but I still don't know if that will fix the problem. I thought it could be an air leak, but all the articles on air leaks talked of a very rough idle and smooth acceleration, which is exactly the opposite of what I got:confused:

Any help or advice you all have will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again
Clint

yetibone August 31st 2008 20:58

Could be starving for fuel. Maybe an obstruction in the fuel filter that gets progressively packed with more debris over time, then settles away once you shut it down for a period of time.

BigPhattyVW September 1st 2008 17:39

Thanks, I'll pick up some new filters and reply back if that helped. If anyone else has any ideas please feel free to reply!

Clint

yetibone September 2nd 2008 20:21

Werd. Make sure there's no debris in the fuel tank. If there is, you'll have to take the tank out and clean it.

Denny September 3rd 2008 21:12

Have you checked the valve lash? Sometimes even a slightly improper valve setting can cause power loss and poor perfromance. Set them with the engine cold after the car has been setting overnight.

Also check fuel pump pressure. If the fuel pump isn't up to snuff it can also produce the symptoms you describe.

BigPhattyVW September 21st 2008 00:55

So far no luck :-(

I've replaced both fuel filters (one before and one after the fuel pump), emptied the tank and checked for debris near the exit tube but it was clean. I removed that tube at the bottom of the tank to see if it had a pinhole in it but it was fine. The hose connecting the tank to the main line was a little dry at the ends, so I clipped them off a bit and reinstalled but again no luck.

I just checked the rear hose that connects from the main line to the engine and it seemed to be fine, although it was a plain rubber hose. So that may be the one needing replacement.

Just as I finished that last sentence I thought I may have tightened the clamps on the filters too much, but I loosened them and there wasn't a surge of gas coming through to fill it.

The only symptoms that i can see are bubbles in the fuel line at the filter before the carb, and there is not that much fuel in the filter before the pump.

Any ideas? It may just very well be the pump, but I rather make sure than change every part on my engine 50 times.

Thanks again for your input, it really does help
Clint

beetle1303 September 21st 2008 08:59

is the first fuel filter close to the pump or to the tank??
there is a significant difference in pump efficiency depending on filter placement.
our pump is a "pusher" and is fed by gravity. if you place the filter close to the pump that means actually at a high point. thus part of the gravity is wasted. try placing it under your fuel tank...

my 2cents

Chris

BigPhattyVW September 21st 2008 14:40

That makes sense. The weird thing is that I have had it set up close to the pump for 4 years now with no trouble? I'll try removing it for now and see what happens. By the way does anybody know of a big auto store that would have the braided fuel line that we use? I ask because my vw parts store is closed on sundays and mondays :( In fact, now that I think about it, that could prove the fuel pump is at its last days.

Thanks
Clint

BigPhattyVW September 28th 2008 06:32

Since I have an Alternator, i use the pump with the 4" rod, is the rod exactly 4" or is it a little shorter?

BigPhattyVW November 19th 2008 23:48

Okay, I have replaced all rubber fuel lines, put in a hard metal line, and gotten rid of the filter before the pump. After about 10 to 15 minutes of highway driving it starts to bog and I can see bubbles in the fuel filter before the carb. This has been the most puzzling problem because I can't seem to figure out why this happens.

I have insulated the metal fuel line with exhaust wrap and aluminum ducting tape, thinking that it is getting close to the heat exchanger and may be vaporizing enough to still keep the engine going but not enough to run is steady?

I can't see anything in the fuel tank and I have removed the j tube from the tank to inspect it and it was fine. Does anybody have any clues for me?

Thanks
Clint

Steve C November 20th 2008 19:25

Hi

I have exactly the same set-up on my daily 1303 (1600 dual port with 34pict/3 carb, 009 dist with a pertronix igniter 2), I experienced a slight miss at all speeds, put stock points etc back in and the miss went away.

I was about to ship it back to the people I bought it from but I thought I would give it one more try, no miss.

Then I did a 1500 k road trip and it would develop a similar miss soon after filling up, this miss was only at very light throttle opening, then another tank of gas and it would go away again.

I've blown the idle and main jets with air and it made no difference, so I put some fuel system cleaner in it and its running sweet now

Maybe the electronics better spark cant handle crap fuel.

Steve

BigPhattyVW November 23rd 2008 20:46

I think I'll try the fuel system cleaner next. I just readjusted the carb for an Idle at 850 rpm and lowered the max advance to 27 btd and it seemed to help a little bit.

Anybody have any clues as to why the fuel in the filter is bubbling though?

Peace
Clint

brujo65 November 24th 2008 01:24

do you ck the fuel pressure ???

bushoarder December 10th 2008 16:03

I had a very similar problem with my bug, the bug would run for a while then load up and die. Each time the time for this to happen shortened. I suspected what you mention, but after changing all fuel related bits had the same flaw.

I'm running T25 dizzy and electronic ignition - changed the hall sender and that fixed it. the hall senders do fail, I think your pertronix is a hall effect sender also, try points and see if it cures it. If you can get the specs you could measure the values for the sender?

Also had another problem in the summer, after a 20 - 30 minute drive, in traffic the bug would load up and miss then die no matter how hard you floor the pedal. I thought this was another hall sender, looking at the fuel filter [which I had near the pre-heat pipes] it was empty; the fuel had boiled off whilst sat in traffic. The solution was to cable tie it away from the pre-heat pipes [got dual pre heats] and brilliant fixed! so maybe my ramblings will help you.


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